Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks

In this age of everything electronic, it may surprise some people that a newly acquired mechanical clock bought at the local garage sale, flea market or antique store needs to be wound on a regular basis. Winding a mechanical clock takes a level of care but a few simple guidelines should have you on your way.

Here’s how to wind an antique or vintage mechanical clock correctly. By following these tips and guidance, you’ll gain the skill and confidence needed to wind your clock properly and maintain its functionality.

Let’s begin by discussing some terms.

Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function

On your clock’s dial (excluding cable-driven tall case clocks), you will notice one, two, or three holes, known as “winding arbours” or winding points. Each arbour serves a specific purpose, and the number of winding arbours indicates the number of gear trains (or sets of gears) in the clock.

For example, a clock with one winding hole is a time-only clock. Two winding holes typically indicate a time-and-strike clock. These clocks strike the hour on the hour and may also strike on the half-hour, either on a bell or gong. Clocks with three winding arbours chime on the quarter-hour, producing a musical tone. On such clocks, the center arbour winds the time train, the left arbour winds the strike train, and the right arbour winds the chime train.

On some clocks, there is a smaller hole on the clock face near or above the 12 o’clock position. It is also an arbour, but a smaller one used for regulating the speed of your clock. If you have a double-ended key, the small end fits that arbour. Some clocks will have the regulating arbour located under the centre cannon where the hands are attached.

The Difference Between Strike and Chime

A strike or a chime is simply the clock sounding the time. An antique or vintage “time and strike” clock indicates the hour by striking once for each hour or using a two-tone strike, such as a Normandy or “Bim-Bam” strike.

On the other hand, a chime is a musical tone and a typical musical tone found on most clocks with three winding points is the Westminster chime. Some clocks provide more choices such as the Schatz W3 bracket clock which has 3 musical tones, St Michael’s, Whittington and Westminster.

On older clocks, there may or may not be an additional strike on the half-hour. Older antique clocks from the mid-1800s, for example, typically do not strike on the half-hour to preserve the wind on the strike side.

Typically, striking clocks have two winding points, while chiming clocks have three.

Where Winding Points Are Located

On this spring-driven, Seth Thomas mantel clock (photo below) the left arbour, indicated by an arrow, winds the strike side and the right arbour, the right arrow winds the time side. The smaller hole just below the centre cannon is for regulating the clock using a double-ended key.

On the Ingraham clock (photo below), there is only one set or train of gears that indicates it is a time-only clock, hence the single arbour or winding point. The barely visible, smaller hole in the loop end of the “2” on the number 12 is for regulating the clock.

If you find the sound of the strike unpleasant or it disturbs your guests, you can wind only the time side, and the clock will still run perfectly fine without winding the strike side.

However, to ensure even wear and proper maintenance, it is advisable to wind both sides of a striking clock.

The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock

Most clocks are designed to run for eight days. Some older clocks run 30 hours and others run as long as 30 days on a wind. Still others such as anniversary clocks will run 400 days on a wind.

For eight-day clocks, winding once a week ensures the clock continues running smoothly. Establishing a routine, such as winding your clock(s) on the same day each week, is a helpful habit. It’s also a good idea to make occasional adjustments to your clock, such as fine-tuning its speed to account for seasonal changes. You can find more details in an article I wrote about regulating your clock.

Clock Keys

It is common for a newly acquired clock to come without a key, and if it does have one, it is usually a replacement. Finding a clock with its original key is quite rare. The key that accompanies the clock is likely to fit, but if your clock has a speed adjustment arbour (marked F-S) on the dial, typically located near the top, it should have a double-ended key.

If your clock has a one-ended winding key and a speed adjustment arbour is present, the key is not original to the clock. Double-ended keys are necessary because the speed adjustment arbour is considerably smaller than the winding arbour.

Key Size and Type

All mechanical clocks require a winding key, like the one shown below. The exceptions are alarm clocks and some carriage clocks, which have built-in winding keys. Keys come in various sizes, so it’s important to have the correct size for your clock’s arbour. The key should fit snugly without being too loose.

If your clock came without a key it can be purchased at any clock supply house such as Perrin in Vancouver, Canada. Timesavers and Merritts are clock suppliers in the USA where keys can be purchased.

Here is an article on key sizes.

Over-winding a clock is a common myth.  A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil

Winding Your Mechanical Clock

If the dial is covered by a glass door, open it to access the clock face. Insert the key into one of the winding arbours and use your non-dominant hand to steady the case while winding. To protect the finish of the case, it’s a good idea to wear a cotton glove on your non-dominant hand.

Next, turn the key clockwise. If it doesn’t turn clockwise, try turning it counterclockwise. Some clocks wind in either direction, so this is normal. Avoid forcing the key; apply minimal pressure and continue winding until you feel resistance. Once you encounter resistance, stop winding and do not force the key further.

Below is a clear example of a previous owner using excessive force to wind the movement in the wrong direction. The right spring barrel has become unhooked from the main wheel, which only happens when significant force is applied while winding in the opposite direction.

If you lose the key, simply purchase a replacement. Never use pliers or any other hand tools to wind a clock.

The “clicking” sound heard while winding the arbour is the click engaging the ratchet on the mainspring. The ratchet’s purpose is to secure the mainspring in place with each turn of the key.

An 8-day clock usually requires about 14 half turns of the key as the arbour does one complete turn per day.

Allow the key to gently return to its click. On the rare occasion that the click slips or breaks, resist the urge to release it quickly. Instead, let the key slowly unwind in your hand to prevent potential damage to the teeth, gears, and even your hand. Letting the key go suddenly can cause collateral damage to other parts of the movement.

The myth of overwinding a clock is common, but a clock that “seems” overwound actually seizes due to a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil, which causes the coil to stick. Regular servicing of a mechanical clock is an essential part of ownership and helps prevent future issues.

Clocks with Weights

Not all clocks use springs — for example, grandfather clocks and one-day ogee clocks are weight-driven. On these clocks, the weights must be raised to the top to begin the weekly time cycle. This can be done either by inserting a crank key into the winding arbor on the clock face or by manually pulling the chains to lift the weights.

For clocks with winding chains, gently pull down on the shorter side of the chain until the weight reaches the underside of the wooden seatboard, stopping at the weight stop bar. Repeat this process for the remaining two chains if it’s a chiming clock. Allow the chains to do the work — do not assist by lifting the weights at the same time. Pushing up on the weights could cause the chain to slip over the winding gear teeth or become unhooked. To protect the brass finish on the weight shells, wear cotton gloves while steadying the weights as they are pulled up.

For tall case clocks with cable drives, use a crank key to wind by inserting the key into each winding hole on the clock face. Turn the key slowly until the weights are raised to the top.

All three weights on a chiming grandfather clock descend more or less together through the week.

On older tall case clocks with weights hidden behind an access door, open the door to watch the weights rise as you wind the clock. As the weights near the top, slow down and stop when you feel resistance.

Thirty-hour time and strike or one-day clocks are typically wound with a winding crank inserted in the dial face winding points once per day. Wind the weights to the top of the case at approximately the same time each day.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, take pride in your mechanical clock and the craftsmanship it represents. Wind it regularly, care for it properly, and have it serviced when necessary. Even if you prefer not to keep it running, cherish it as a remarkable piece of horological heritage.

For visual learners who prefer to see the process in action, I’ve created a helpful video demonstration showing exactly how to wind a clock. You can watch it here: