I wrote recently about a two-weight Gustav Becker regulator wall clock that my wife bought for me in 2016. It was sold as a “project clock.” While the case presented its own challenges, the real difficulties lay in the movement.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
At the time, I was unfamiliar with Gustav Becker movements and only gradually realized that several key components were missing, likely harvested by a previous owner. One such part was the star wheel—an early lesson in the fact that Gustav Becker made design changes over time, and that parts are not always interchangeable.
After unsuccessfully attempting to source correct replacement parts, I ultimately replaced the original 1902 movement with a complete 1918 P27 movement. That movement has run reliably for more than nine years, making the recent strike failure described here not unexpected.
The clock began stopping intermittently during the warning phase, with the warning lever appearing to bind at the stop-wheel pin. Given the movement’s long service interval and the absence of obvious damage, the symptoms point toward accumulated wear rather than a sudden component failure.
The movement is now fully disassembled and awaiting the next steps. In this blog article, the focus will be on cleaning and initial inspection for wear. In a post to follow, I will document bushing work, reassembly, and testing required to restore reliable strike operation before returning the movement to the case.
When I first received the replacement movement, I inspected it and found everything to be in good order, with no appreciable wear. I cleaned the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner; however, at the time, I did not completely disassemble the winding drums, as I believed there was no need to do so. On this occasion, the winding drums must be disassembled, as the cables are becoming frayed just outside the drum, requiring access to the knotted ends.
Winding drum with gear wheel and spring removed
I inspected the braided cables and, rather than replace them, decided to reuse them. Although cutting off the knot at the barrel end will shorten the cables slightly, re-knotting the hook ends (the bottom of the movement) will restore them to their original length, so the run time should not be affected.
Mixing up winding drum parts might not be an issue, but safer to separate them
In the ultrasonic, I kept the winding drum parts separate. They may be interchangeable, but at this point, I’m not taking any chances. Interestingly, over a dozen parts make up each drum, most of which were taken apart for cleaning. I saw no need to disassemble the click spring, however. Once all the parts are out of the ultrasonic and dried thoroughly, the first step is to reassemble the winding drums and their cables, and set them aside for now.
Now that the movement is clean and the pivot holes have been pegged, it is time to turn our attention to the action of the gears. I first assembled and tested the time side and could find no perceptible wear. It’s a pretty simple setup with only 3 wheels: the second larger wheel, the third wheel, and the escape wheel. There are also 3 wheels on the strike side ending with the fly/governor. On the strike side, I can find some lateral movement of the pivots on the count wheel front and back plate, and the stop wheel, back, and possibly the front plate.
With the inspection complete, attention turned to the strike side, where the expected story revealed itself. Wear at several pivot holes was evident, the kind of wear you expect to find in a P27 movement that has been doing its job for well over a century. So, there is work to be done.
Did I wait too long? Yes, perhaps 9 years is a bit too long an interval between servicing points. None of it was alarming, but it does help explain some of the strike-related issues observed earlier. Addressing these worn areas will be an important next step, not only to improve performance but to give the strike train the freedom and reliability it needs for years to come.
In 2016, my wife gifted me a two-weight Gustav Becker regulator wall clock. It was a much-appreciated gift, and I spent many hours restoring it, as it had been sold as a “project clock.” The case certainly had its issues, but the most challenging problems lay in the movement itself.
At the time, I was not familiar with Gustav Becker movements, and it did not immediately occur to me that several key components were missing—almost as if a previous owner had harvested parts for another clock. One example was the absence of the star wheel. I contacted the seller, who kindly sent several replacement parts, including a star wheel. Unfortunately, it did not fit.
Missing star wheel, which should be just below the minute wheel
It was then that I learned Gustav Becker had made design changes to these movements over time, meaning that not all parts are interchangeable. It appears the star wheel was sourced from a later model.
That led me to source a replacement movement, which I was able to obtain through an eBay seller. The price was more reasonable than I expected, and the movement arrived intact. Initially, I thought I could harvest parts from it for the original movement; however, as I had already learned with the star wheel, some parts did not fit.
Using replacement parts in antique clocks presents a number of challenges beyond simple fit and function. Even when parts appear correct, subtle differences in design, dimensions, or period manufacturing can affect performance and reliability.
From a collector’s perspective, non-original or mismatched components may also impact a clock’s historical authenticity and, in some cases, its market value. For the restorer, this often requires balancing mechanical integrity and long-term usability against the desire to preserve originality as much as possible. Of course, to the casual observer, the clock appears original.
I ultimately decided to abandon the 1902 movement and use the 1918 P27 one instead. The 1918 movement has been running flawlessly for the past 9 plus year and that is why the issue I am describing in this post surprises me. Or, should it!
Most people would be inclined to dismiss the problem by simply restarting the clock, which is what I initially did, but several hours later, the clock stopped again.
The problem is this: the warning lever, which drops into the warning wheel to stop the strike in warning, seems to freeze intermittently. For proper function, the strike release lever is lifted by the minute wheel pin to release the warning lever. I believe the issue occurs at the stop-wheel pin, where it appears to bind or stick. When I manually lift the warning lever to release the stop wheel, the strike train will run for a while, then stick again.
When I disassembled the movement, I checked for broken or bent teeth, bent pins, and the general condition of the pivots. Everything appeared to look good. However, given that the clock has been running for a long period, the issue now seems more consistent with wear than with a sudden component failure.
One issue could be that excess endshake may be allowing the stop wheel to move fore and aft, altering how the stop pin engages the warning lever. Additionally, many weight-driven warning levers rely purely on gravity for return; any increase in friction can cause the lever to hesitate or become caught on the edge of the pin. For these reasons, I believe this is a general wear issue rather than a broken or failed component.
By way of comparison, the average American-made movement produced a century ago could often continue to run reasonably well despite significant wear, whereas German movements—built with tiny pivots and very close tolerances—tend to be far more sensitive to wear, dirt, and minor loss of power. This difference should perhaps not be unexpected.
The movement is currently disassembled and, after many years of service, likely requires bushing work.
In short, the symptoms point to accumulated wear rather than a specific failed part. The movement will therefore receive full bushing work where needed, followed by a thorough cleaning, reassembly, and testing on the stand. Only once the strike operates consistently and reliably under full weight will the movement be returned to the case.
Every clock owner wants to know what their clock is worth, and every seller hopes to sell for as much as possible. This guide offers a framework to evaluate antique and vintage clocks for both buyers and sellers, starting with insights into the unpredictable clock market.
The Unpredictable Clock Market
Determining the value of a clock is often challenging. The market fluctuates, and what you think your clock is worth today may not align with expert opinions or what buyers are willing to pay. Trends come and go, and the value of clocks can drop or rise unexpectedly.
For example, I once came across a mid-1990s Howard Miller grandfather clock listed on Facebook Marketplace for $3,000. After several days with minimal interest, the seller gradually lowered the price to $1,500, but it still did not sell. In reality, it was only worth around $500 on a good day.
This shows how subjective personal value can be, and the reality is that modern clocks, like many Ridgeway or Howard Miller models, often do not hold their original value. What you believe holds significant value may not align with what potential buyers are willing to pay.
Scottish tall case clock
Even an appraised value is just an educated opinion, reflecting current market conditions, the clock’s condition, and its collectibility. As market trends shift, the value of a clock can change significantly.
Factors in Assessing Clock Value
Is It Original? Originality significantly impacts value. Clocks with replaced or missing parts tend to lose their appeal to collectors. Many “Vienna Regulators” found online, for example, are hybrids of mismatched cases and movements. In some instances, parts are missing altogether.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
Clocks marketed as “complete and original” by sellers who admit they know little about clocks should be approached with extreme caution. Always verify the clock’s parts with an expert or a reputable auction house to ensure accuracy.
What Type or Style Is It? The style or type of clock affects value. While common American mantel clocks may be worth little due to their mass production, specific models like the E.N. Welch “Patti” line or Seth Thomas Sonora clocks command high prices.
Wall clocks, especially those from the 19th century made in limited quantities, generally hold a higher value than mantel clocks which were produced in the thousands.
Seth Thomas #2 wall clock
Grandfather clocks, also known as hall clocks, longcase, or tallcase clocks, can often be acquired for a fraction of their value, despite many that are 150+ years old. Tall clocks are bulky, requiring significant floor space. Many people don’t have the room or the inclination to accommodate such large items, especially in smaller or more modern living spaces.
A Label, Trademark, or Prominent Name adds Value An intact label, trademark, or known maker adds value. A clock with a visible maker’s mark, such as an E. Howard or an original Willard banjo clock, is often sought after due to their craftsmanship and brand recognition.
A label, trademark, or maker’s mark verifies the clock’s authenticity, confirming that it is an original piece from a recognized manufacturer. This eliminates doubts about whether the clock is a reproduction or a mix of parts, which increases its value to collectors.
Pequegnat Canadian Time clock label
A visible maker’s mark or label helps establish the clock’s provenance, providing important information about its origin, manufacturer, and production period. Clocks with clear histories, especially from reputable makers, are more desirable because they can be accurately placed within historical or stylistic contexts.
A clock’s history can boost its value. A story or historical significance attached to a clock, or a clock with a clear and documented background may attract more buyers and command a higher price.
Reproduction labels or unmarked movements raise red flags for serious collectors.
The Correct Period or a Reproduction? Period authenticity is key. Many reproduction clocks closely resemble originals from the early 1900s but have far less value. For example, Seth Thomas reissued its famous Regulator #2 in the 1970s, but collectors prefer the originals from the late 1800s, which have clearer distinguishing features.
Reproduction clocks are often made with modern manufacturing techniques and less expensive materials, resulting in a lower quality product compared to hand-crafted originals. Collectors and buyers appreciate the craftsmanship of original clocks, which were made with more attention to detail and durability.
Some sellers would pass off this 1970s Jauch clock as an antique
Original clocks from the early 1900s carry historical value due to their connection to a specific time period, reflecting the craftsmanship, design, and technology of that era. Reproduction clocks, even if they mimic the look of the originals, lack this historical significance, making them less valuable to collectors.
Novice collectors are often tempted by reproductions (particularly if the clock is passed off as original), and if they’re uncertain, they should consult a professional for guidance.
Age and Condition A clock’s condition is crucial to its value. Clocks with missing pieces, broken hands, or poorly repainted dials are worth much less, even if they are from reputable makers. Age alone does not guarantee value—certain styles or makers, despite being centuries old, may not be popular among collectors.
Some buyers are specifically looking for clocks in original, unrestored condition, even with signs of wear. Restoration can eliminate the clock’s patina, which is often considered part of its historical appeal.
A well-functioning clock is more appealing to buyers. Properly repairing the movement restores its functionality, often increasing its resale value, as people are naturally drawn to a working clock.
In some cases, restoring a clock too thoroughly—by polishing, repainting, or replacing parts—can strip away its historical character. Over-restored clocks may look “too new,” which can detract from their antique charm and value.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fantop restored case
The cost of repairing or refinishing a clock may outweigh the potential increase in resale value. If the clock isn’t particularly rare or valuable, to begin with, investing heavily in restoration may not yield a return in the marketplace. Sellers often do not service their clocks, either because they lack the necessary skills or because the cost of repair doesn’t justify the potential profit.
Is the Clock Collectible? Desirability can be influenced by rarity and regional interest. For instance, Arthur Pequegnat clocks are highly sought after in Canada but may fetch lower prices outside the country. True Vienna Regulators from the early 19th century are another example of rare clocks that remain valuable, especially when they are original and authentic.
The Mechanism Type The complexity of a clock’s mechanism can impact its value. Clocks with a three-train mechanism (time, strike, and chime) tend to be more valuable than simpler two-train or one-train models.
Clocks with more complex mechanisms, such as those with three-train movements, demonstrate a higher level of craftsmanship. These mechanisms control multiple functions, like chiming, striking, and keeping time, requiring greater precision and skill in their design and assembly. As a result, clocks with such elaborate mechanisms are often considered superior and more desirable, elevating their market value.
More complex mechanisms, like three-weight Vienna Regulator Grande Sonnerie clocks, are generally rarer than their single- or two-train counterparts. The production of these complex movements required more skill and was often reserved for higher-end models or special commissions, making them less common and more sought after by collectors. Their scarcity in the market can drive up their value, especially when the clock is in good working condition with original parts.
Collectors often prioritize clocks with intricate mechanisms because they showcase the ingenuity and technological advancements of their time. The presence of a three-train mechanism, or a clock with additional complications like chiming or an alarm, indicates a higher level of mechanical achievement. These clocks are often seen as more valuable historical artifacts, and their complexity can make them the centerpiece of a collection.
On the flip side, clocks with more complex mechanisms can be harder and more expensive to repair or maintain, which may deter some buyers. A three-train movement has more moving parts that could potentially break down or require servicing, and specialized knowledge is often needed to repair them. However, collectors willing to invest in these repairs typically appreciate the value of the clock and understand that the effort is worth it.
Do Your Research and Meet the Seller In Person!
Before buying or selling a clock, check eBay listings, reputable auction houses, local buy-and-sell sites, antique shops, and online message boards. Prices can be volatile, and what may have sold for a high price years ago may be worth much less today. For example, some clocks that were once highly valued, are now relatively inexpensive due to oversupply.
Antique shops are potential places for a good buy
As a buyer, ask detailed questions and verify originality before making a purchase. Sellers should provide an honest and clear description of their clock, disclosing any replaced parts or modifications. Keep in mind that while the clock market may seem chaotic, high-end, sought-after clocks tend to retain their value over time.
Meeting the seller face to face is often the best approach. A personal meeting allows buyers to gauge the seller’s honesty and integrity, making them feel more secure in their purchase.
Seeing the clock in person allows the buyer to closely inspect its condition, functionality, and any potential issues that may not be apparent in photos. This firsthand assessment helps buyers make informed decisions about the clock’s value and condition. They can check for labels, trademarks, and other identifying features that may influence the clock’s value. Buyers can also evaluate the quality of craftsmanship and materials up close.
Face-to-face meetings provide a better opportunity for negotiation. Buyers can engage in real-time discussions, express their concerns, and potentially negotiate a fair price based on the clock’s condition and market value. In-person interactions often lead to more flexible negotiations than online communications.
Sellers who are passionate about their clocks can provide detailed information about the piece’s history, repairs, and provenance often enhancing the buying experience and adding value to the transaction.
Photos can be misleading, and details may be overlooked in written descriptions. Meeting the seller face to face reduces the risk of misrepresentation, as buyers can directly address any discrepancies they find during their inspection.
Meeting in person can eliminate the need for shipping, which can be costly and risky for fragile antique clocks. Buyers can transport the clock themselves, ensuring it arrives safely.
If you have any doubts or the answers you’re receiving from the seller seem uncertain, always—without exception—be prepared to walk away.
Now is a good time to buy or sell
Now is an excellent time to buy, as many bargains can be found with careful research. For sellers, patience and realistic expectations are key. Understanding the market, setting fair prices, and presenting items attractively will increase your chances of success. Whether buying or selling, doing your homework is essential to navigating this unpredictable landscape.
In this post, I describe an unusual issue when relocating my mini Vienna Regulator clock. But first some background information on Vienna Regulators.
The Vienna Regulator clock, also known as the Vienna wall clock, is a type of precision pendulum clock that originated in Vienna, Austria, in the late 18th century.
The development of the Vienna Regulator clock was influenced by several factors. One of the key factors was the rising demand for accurate timekeeping during the Industrial Revolution. Vienna, as a center of craftsmanship and technological innovation, played a vital role in meeting this demand.
They typically had a slender wooden case, which housed the pendulum and the clock mechanism. This design allowed for a longer pendulum, resulting in greater accuracy. The pendulum was often enclosed in a glass door or window, allowing the movement to be admired from the side panels while protecting it from dust.
The cases, made of various types of wood such as walnut, oak, or mahogany, were often finely crafted with decorative inlays, carvings, or veneers. The clocks featured a white enamel or porcelain dial, usually adorned with Roman numerals and ornate hands.
Vienna regulator movement
The movement of the Vienna Regulator clock was powered by weights suspended on cables or cords. The weights (up to three) were typically wound up once a week, providing the necessary power for the clock to run accurately.
During the 19th century, the Vienna Regulator clock underwent several design changes. The earlier models, known as “Vienna Regulators of the Biedermeier period,” were characterized by a simpler and more classical style. Later models, influenced by the emerging Victorian and Rococo revival styles, featured more elaborate ornamentation and decorative elements.
A well-preserved Vienna Regulator dial
The style and craftsmanship of Vienna Regulator clocks are often associated with exceptional quality and precision.
While the popularity of the Vienna Regulator clock declined in the early 20th century with the advent of more modern timekeeping devices, it remains highly valued by collectors and enthusiasts today.
The issue
During an unseasonably warm winter, we unexpectedly experienced a sudden drop in temperature, causing a significant plumbing issue that led to a major leak of the pipes in the ceiling of our family room on the first floor of our two-story home. The extent of the damage necessitated replacing the pipes and removing and replacing the gyprock ceiling. While the repairs were underway, we took the opportunity to revamp the room’s decor and make a few changes, including relocating some clocks to that area.
Some clocks can be temperamental and a clock that works fine in one location may not work at all in another. Such was the case of a miniature Vienna Regulator that once moved from an upstairs bedroom refused to run in the family room.
Suspecting a tangled cable issue the result of which would rob power to the movement, I took the movement out of its case and carefully rewound the cable onto its take-up reel. No change.
Could it be a wear issue? I proceeded to carefully remove the movement from its case and meticulously disassembled it, thoroughly inspecting for any signs of bent arbors, or damaged or worn teeth. However, to my surprise, I found no such issues. In fact, the movement was remarkably well-preserved, and the oil in the pivots appeared to be in excellent condition.
After carefully reinstalling the movement into its case and reattaching the weight and pendulum, I observed an interesting issue. I noticed that the bottom of the case protruded farther out than the top, indicating that the wall was not perfectly vertical. Suspecting a connection between this misalignment and the movement’s inability to run, I decided to investigate further.
Left Stabilizer
I adjusted the stabilizers, one on each side, stepping them back slightly, and to my surprise, I discovered the root cause. The escapement pallets, responsible for regulating the movement, were not engaging with the escape wheel correctly. This misalignment was likely the reason for the movement’s previous failure to function properly. It also made me realize that the wall where the clock was previously located was not vertically level.
While achieving horizontal leveling is undoubtedly crucial, it is important that vertical leveling can make a significant difference when it comes to the functionality of a clock. In fact, proper vertical alignment can be the determining factor between a clock that runs smoothly and one that fails to operate at all.
At the end of the day the exercise was worthwhile as it allowed me the clean the movement, reoil the pivots, and polish the brass pendulum and weight.
Every clock enthusiast has their own way of doing things and each has a different approach to clock restoration. Am I different? Not really, but I have put some thoughts to paper that you might find interesting.
Like everyone I started out knowing virtually nothing about clock restoration but learned as I went. As I gained confidence and improved my skillset I took on greater challenges.
Not long ago I bought a nice 30-hour non-running Chauncey Jerome ogee. I would not consider this clock a huge challenge but it will help explain my approach to clock restoration.
The case is from the 1840s and based on my research, the movement is from the same period. There are a few things wrong with it and that is expected from a 176-year-old clock.
Four Options
The clock case and movement are very dirty and the clock certainly has some issues but I am happy to report that a lot is original. It is on my bench. Now, what do I do with it?
I have four options:
Do nothing. Leave everything as-is, preserve the patina and display the clock without servicing the movement or cleaning the case.
Service the movement so that it is in running order but do nothing to the case, again preserve the patina.
Clean and refresh the case but leave the movement as-is.
Service the movement and clean the case, making small repairs if necessary.
Option 1. There are very few clocks where I would do absolutely nothing. If the movement is beyond my capability or requires a complex repair and the case requires extensive repairs or any intervention on my part will potentially make it worse, I will leave it alone.
Option 2. Not a good option for me. There is no point in servicing a movement if is going back into a dirty case and risk the movement becoming contaminated with dirt and debris.
Option 3 If the movement is beyond my capability or requires a complex repair I will leave it alone and proceed with cleaning the case.
Option 4. This is my preference. My end goal is minimal invasive intervention which means that I will service a movement and address wear issues where necessary. I will refresh the case if it is grimy and requires a good cleaning. I am not a strong believer in patina which one reader opined is just another word for dirt. As much as possible, I use original materials and techniques when working on the case. This includes the use of hot hide glue, traditional shellac (flakes mixed with shellac lacquer), and fasteners like old slot head screws, and square nails.
In rare cases where I am met with a significant challenge, I will perform a complete restoration with the goal of bringing the clock back to its original condition. I call this extreme restoration.
Here are two examples. Both of these clocks are running daily.
I believe that some amount of intervention is not only necessary but desired by collectors and I also believe that there are situations where a wholesale ground-up restoration is the only option.
In the case of this miniature Vienna Regulator cleaning and oiling the movement, and polishing the brass was the only intervention.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock
My position regarding changes to a clock
My end goal is a functional clock that presents well. As far as I’m concerned a non-working clock must become a working clock because that is the nature of its existence.
If a clock has important provenance and extensive repairs to the movement and/or case alter it in a negative way and I will leave it alone.
And what does the ogee clock i mentioned in the beginning of this article look like now?
Restored Jerome ogee
I am sure you will agree that it is not a dramatic change at all but it is now a working clock that presents well.
Every now and then a clock is temperamental. I am not talking about the signs of wear that will certainly stop a clock but occasionally it is serviced, everything looks good but it is downright cantankerous. Anyone who has 400-day anniversary clocks knows exactly what I mean. Are clocks moody?
I relocated my unmarked Vienna Regulator one-weight (time-only) wall clock from one room to another and it decided to stop, just like that! A push of the pendulum and 10 minutes or two hours later, it stops. Normally when a clock is moved and level is confirmed (and the movement in beat) it happily ticks along but not this time. Is my Vienna Regulator moody?
It is one of my favourite clocks and I wanted it to run.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock
Some might call it a mini Vienna Regulator others might call it just small. It is 34 inches long 4.75 inches deep and 11 inches at the widest point and 8.5 inches at the waist. Time-only Vienna Regulators are my absolute favourite. They are simple andusually very reliable.
Clock collectors usually pride themselves in having at least one Gustav Becker (GB) clock in their collection. I have just one but I am always on the lookout for another.
Gustav Becker wall clock
Becker clocks are not difficult to identify and date. Along with a maker’s stamp, serial numbers on the clock movements identify the year of manufacture. This clock was made in 1902 however, the original 1902 Braunau movement had too many missing parts and was replaced. It now has a “newer” Polish sourced Braunau movement from 1917.
I was on a Facebook clock collector page recently and I was intrigued by the work someone had done on a clock that was surely destined for the garbage bin. The transformation was given an apt phrase, “Trash to Treasure” and so I thought I would write about my own experiences resurrecting old clocks.
Preserving the original patina is always the principle goal and I do as much as I can to keep things as they are. However, when the finish has been adversely affected by environmental damage, heat, cold, humidity over the course of many years, as in a couple of examples below, the only course of action is refinishing.
There are times when the only course of action is complete restoration
What other machine have you acquired that has worked continuously since it was made 150 plus years ago and still does the job it was intended for? Mechanical clocks revolutionized people’s perception of time by displaying neutral, uniform units that showed the passage of time. Though not as accurate as the modern electronic timekeeper the mechanical clock remains a marvel of engineering and innovation.
The constant search for clocks
Locating antique and vintage clocks involves travelling, meeting fascinating people and discovering a clock’s particular history. Each story is unique and some stories are sad. I recently arranged the purchase of an antique French shelf clock, arrived to pick it up and discovered that the person was terminally ill and selling off his clock collection to provide for his wife after he had passed. I really felt sorry for the fellow. Of course, many stories are happy ones.
I enjoy clocks for what they are. I often think about the men who conceived them, built them and the craftsmen working in small factories in places such as New England with primitive (by our standards) tools and the harsh conditions they endured. Life to them was a day-to-day struggle. That the clocks are still with us today is a testament to the pioneers of clock-making.
Miniature Vienna Regulator wall clock, circa 1870
There are a lot of clocks I find intriguing. There are some people that collect complex clocks and I appreciate them as well but I lean towards beauty in simplicity. For example, the miniature Vienna Regulator pictured above is a time-only clock made during the Austrian-Hungarian empire (1870). It is simple, little can go wrong and after nearly 150 years it is still running strong.
There is a certain joy in collecting and repairing clocks. The hobby of clock-making allows one to escape from negativity, put aside worldly matters, effectively manage stress, and dispense with everyday concerns. Occasionally clock problems are very challenging however, the joy in discovering a solution is immeasurable. Beyond that, clocks are an art form and should be appreciated for what they are.
As a collector, the number of clocks I have is not important. The size of my collection is also not important but by trimming my acquisitions from time to time I keep it manageable.
I have been collecting clocks for over 8 years. In that time I have enjoyed my hobby immensely and I am constantly on the lookout for new and interesting acquisitions. It is more like a daily passion.
However, I now realize that as my collection steadily grows I have more than I need or want. I cherish some of my clocks and intend to keep them for years; my Arthur Pequegnats, selected Seth Thomas clocks, clocks made by the Hamilton Clock Co. and the Canada Clock Co., my Vienna regulators and some of my German wall clocks. I don’t mind parting with other clocks now or in the foreseeable future. Some I will miss and others I will not.
A house can only hold so many clocks
My daughter correctly pointed out that I should adopt a one clock comes in another goes out approach. “One-in, one-out”, she says and it makes perfect sense.
A house can only hold so many clocks. In my small office which is 10X12 I have a total of 15 clocks, 10 of which are running daily and the remainder in various states of repair. Outside my office, at any given time, there are 26 clocks in a number of rooms around the house. I am not one of those persons on YouTube who feel the need to cover their walls with clocks. I prefer to display them in a natural way, as an integral part of the decor of my home. The number is not all that important but I am trying to keep it manageable.
Kienzle World Time clock and Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock
I have decided that now is the time to sell some of my clocks. My objective is not to make money but to recover the cost of the original purchase plus my labour on each clock that I sell. These are the clocks that have left my collection recently.
I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock, circa 1950Juba Schatz Bim-Bam mantel clock, circa 1948Hermle Westminster chime with moon phase circa 1985
I have also gifted eight clocks over the last 3 years and most have been mantel clocks. Antique and vintage clocks make wonderful gifts to friends and family. It is cool to see them displayed and running in their homes when I visit though I know darn well that they are wound just hours before my arrival.
On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”
As my knowledge of the clock world grows and my experience repairing and restoring them expands I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection. However, those critical choices often translate into spending more money. For example, recent acquisitions have been a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 and an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, both wall clocks.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2, time-only, weight driven clock Circa 1922Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, double spring time only clock, Circa 1930
I believe my new approach is a natural progression and perhaps I have been subconsciously heading down that path for a year or more. Unless a clock has an interesting provenance, is rare, uncommon, unique and/or is a challenge to restore I will now shy away from most of the garden variety clocks one sees on online for-sale sites and yes, I still have a few of those.
On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”.
I knew during the course of collecting antique and vintage clocks combined with increased knowledge/experience that my hobby would evolve and continuing my horological journey in a slightly different way is about time,
Small details added during clock restoration projects can change the appearance of clock in a positive way. In this article I will describe how adding a piece (actually two), that should have there in the first place, will make all the difference.
During the fall (2018) I spent a considerable amount of time restoring a Vienna styled time and strike German made FMS Mauthe spring driven wall clock. Restoration involved completely stripping and refinishing the case and fully servicing the movement. My wife commented that the transformation was dramatic and of course, I graciously accepted the compliment.
For some reason many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers
Before
And….
After
Restoration included adding an arched door insert above the dial and a new centre top finial. Otherwise, the clock was complete except for one small item, the 2 wall stabilizers. Why would they be missing? A thumbscrew might go astray during a servicing and rather than find a replacement it is too easy to take both off and discard them.
Clock case stabilizers
Many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers. Check the rear backboard of a wall clock without stabilizers. You might find two small holes on either side of the case near the bottom indicating it once had wall stabilizers. Otherwise if you do not find those holes, the clock was never meant to have them.
Once the beat is set, level the clock on the wall and set the stabilizers by screwing each one into the wall. The stabilizers will compensate for any wall vibrations and the movement of the case during the weekly winding.
Right side stabilizer
Some stabilizers are unique to brands such as Ansonia and Gustav Becker. This, however, does not mean that they are limited to these movements, they are interchangeable. The stabilizers you see here are advertised as Vienna stabilizers.
Left and right stabilizers are barely seen but preform an important function
All clock suppliers carry stabilizers. I ordered a pair and simply re-used the screw holes on either side on the backboard to attach the stabilizers.
Are they absolutely necessary? No! Can a clock run without them. Yes! Yet, it is an often overlooked detail that might make all the difference.
During my travels through Ontario, I acquired a Seth Thomas Regulator #2, one of my newest additions. I discovered this clock in Bloomfield, a quaint village just minutes from Picton, a major hub in Prince Edward County renowned for its many wineries.
I first spotted the clock during a summer visit to the local antique shop and deliberated over the purchase for quite some time before finally deciding to take the plunge in the fall. These clocks are a rare find, and with the price being right and the clock in excellent condition, it felt like an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.
Perhaps best known as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was a fixture in many railway stations across the country during the last century—a testament to its accuracy and dependability. Robust, precise, well-engineered, and reliable, this timepiece was manufactured by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, an impressive production run of 90 years. Few clocks can boast such longevity. It is an iconic American clock, and every serious clock collector aspires to own one.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2, circa 1922
A classic style, the #2 changed very little over the years. However, certain design characteristics help date the clock. The following identification guide describes dial and case characteristics that will aid in identifying the approximate year the clock was made.
The most distinctive visible characteristic is the design of the base.
The base of the clock
Aside from the distinctive base, all but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear with “T” hands.
The chart also lists the limited run reissue in 1976. Most Seth Thomas aficionados would agree that while the reissue is a handsome and well-made clock that is a testament to the original it is not in the same realm as an authentic Regulator #2 and the prices for these versions reflect accordingly. However, those who have the reissue seem to be pleased with their acquisition.
ccording to the chart, my clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numerals with spade hands, and the bow-tie connecting the wooden dial bezel to the drop is a single piece (earlier versions featured a three-piece bow-tie). The clock includes a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon; however, it is not a true second hand, as it runs off the escapement and takes 80 beats to complete a “minute.”
Measuring 36 ½ inches in height, the clock is veneered in mahogany. The movement is stamped with “77A” in the bottom right corner, with the letter “K” underneath, but it bears no other markings. While some versions of the 77 movement have lantern pinions, this one is equipped with cut pinions.
Are there issues with this clock? Certainly, it is over 90 years old! There is minor loss on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster and paint splatter on the top of the case not visible from the front. Is it really so hard removing a clock when painting a room!
Is it Perfect?
I brought this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car. Removing the pendulum for transport is not a particularly simple process but if you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator this one is no different. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement.
Both the weight and the pendulum must be removed for transport. There is many a story of broken glass when weight and pendulum are free to move around inside the case. To remove the weight, simply unhook it from the cable wheel.
There are minor issues with the dial-face
To remove the pendulum the movement must be taken out. First, the hands are taken off. In this version, the minute hand is held in place with a nut. Older ones have a pin. There are 8 small screws that hold the dial in place. Once the dial is removed, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail are removed. Four cylindrical column posts hold the movement in place. Unscrew these beginning with the bottom two and lift the movement out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.
The trapezoid 77A movement with maintaining power in this clock looks clean. There is evidence of having been worked on in the past as there are 4 punch marks around the winding arbour to close the hole; a common practice in the past to close a pivot hole. Otherwise, the movement looks very good.
Trapezoid 77A movement
Getting the clock to run reliably was a challenge and it took a week or so to sort it out. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop.
Following a process of elimination, I removed the movement, inspected it for wear, found very little, oiled the pivots, and returned the movement to the case. I installed the dial, then the hands. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop. I removed the hands and dial; left the dial off but reinstalled the hands. Still, it would run only a few minutes. I then took the dial and hands off. I ran the movement for four days to eliminate any underlying issues and to convince myself that the problem lay in the positioning of the hands. The problem was definitely with the positioning of the hands.
On day five, I put the dial back on, then the second hand ensuring that there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the face. Next, I put the hour hand on the pipe and pressed it in far enough to clear both the second hand and the minute hand. I attached the minute hand, inspected it for sufficient clearance, and screwed it in place. I started the clock.
Success at last! Regulating the clock is fairly simple and is achieved by turning the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and in beat to function properly.
I used Murphy’s Soap to clean the grease and grime from the case. I chose to leave the paint splatter intact, as it adds a bit of character to the clock. Additionally, I polished the brass weight and pendulum bob to restore their shine.
The view from our front door
This clock boasts a striking appearance and a rich, illustrious history, making it a perfect addition to the front entrance of our home. Unfortunately, its journey over the past 90+ years remains a mystery.
The question of whether it qualifies as a “true regulator” is a debate for another time.
My Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator wall clock is 51 inches in length. It is a 2-weight regulator that runs on an eight day cycle. In order to bring the weights up I must open the access door and insert the winding crank into the arbours on the clock face. I then raise the weights to their highest safe level. During the process of opening the access door and winding the clock there is always the risk of moving the clock, disrupting the level thus creating a condition where it is out-of-beat. In short the stabilizers, located on each side, keep the case from shifting while winding the clock.
Clock-makers provided stabilizers on many clocks so that they would not move during regular winding or remain stable in the event of vibration or shock (accidentally bumping into it).
The stabilizer is usually about an inch in length, has a knurled brass knob on one end and is mounted on a brass or steel plate which is then fixed to the back of the clock case by means of wood screws.
Brass stabilizer
This is the right stabilizer on my Gustav Becker.
Right stabilizer
Junghans Crispi wall clock showing one of the stabilizers
If you find two small holes on either side of the back and near the bottom of the case of a wall clock you can bet that you are missing the wall stabilizers. You can order them from any clock supply house.
They not only complete the look of a wall clock but are functional as well. A very simple solution to a potentially frustrating problem.
Antique and vintage clocks evoke a time when life was simpler than the hectic times we live in today. Those nostalgic times when the things we bought and cherished were living memories of people and places that are gone but not forgotten. Antique clocks should be passed down from one generation to the next. Judging from the online marketplaces unfortunately many are not handed from father to son at all as so many have left their original owners. Is sentimentality lost on this generation?
Two such clocks have a story
Not including the the nine clocks I have in my home office there are 35 clocks displayed throughout our home. It saddens me to think that for many of my clocks I know absolutely nothing about them though I wish they all could talk. What stories they could tell.
Two such clocks have a story.
One of my clocks survived the Halifax Explosion in 1917. I know this because the people I bought it from had the clock in their family for over 100 years. It was certainly not in the condition you see here. It was a box of parts and I imagine they felt they had held onto it long enough and it was time to let it go. After I restored the clock I called back the previous owner and told him what I had done with the clock and would I kindly send him a photo of it restored to its former glory. I did and heard nothing afterwards. Sellers remorse, perhaps. I often look at the clock and try to imagine that fateful day when it fell of the wall in a modest home in North Halifax on December 6, 1917.
Junghans Crispi wall clock
Story number two. You have to feel something for some of the previous owners. This Ingraham Huron shelf clock (circa 1878) is a real gem and fairly rare, you just do not see it come up for sale very often. Some would call it a balloon clock. It was bought in a little village outside Bridgewater, Nova Scotia. My wife and I are about 2 hours away and we decided to make a trip out of getting the clock, having lunch nearby and doing a little shopping.
Do you know anyone who wants Jeff Gordon memorabilia?
Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
We arrived at the sellers home, a modest nondescript bungalow. I was greeted at the door by an elderly couple. They had previously told me on the phone a day earlier that after consultation with their son they had decided on a fixed price for the clock and the price seemed very fair to us.
I asked how long they had the clock and the gentlemen who I would say was in his early seventies said that he could remember the clock in this grandmother’s home when he was quite young. He extended his hand palm down to about a meter from the floor and said, “I was this tall when I can first remember it in my grandmother’s home”. After a conversation with the couple I had discovered that they were parting ways, an amicable separation it seemed and the wife had decided to live in an apartment minutes away in Bridgewater. The husband was left with the home and his workshop in the back of the property. “He spends a lot of time out there anyway and besides, we need to get rid of stuff”. “Do you know anyone who wants Jeff Gordon memorabilia?” “No”, I said and left with the clock. It is sad that they had to part with such a memory but people change.
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike shelf clock
I guess sentimentality has a dollar value or people live with things so long that they eventually tire of having them. Deciding to get rid of things is about relieving yourself of all the stuff you’re hanging onto from past relationships and past memories. Secondly, our desire to hold onto piles and piles of old mementos can often be blamed on nostalgia. That’s because reminiscing about the past makes us feel good. It can lead to increased feelings of familial or social connectedness. If I have an old clock, looking at it can elicit positive emotions. Or, perhaps it was not an especially happy memory and getting rid of it expunges that memory.
I often wonder what will happen to my collection when I meet my fellow clock-makers in the sky. My wife knows that I have no real attachment to some of my clocks since I merely purchased them to learn how to repair them and to grow my hobby. Yes, you can have too many mantel clocks!
However, there are about ten clocks in my collection that I hope will be passed down to my kids. My four Arthur Pequegnats, two Vienna regulators, a Seth Thomas Empire style clock, my Sessions Beveled No. 2, my Ingraham Huron shelf clock and my Junghans Crispi wall clock. For some I appreciate their history and admire the folks who had them and for others they have become sentimental attachments because I spent so much time restoring them.
I am a retired educator living in Nova Scotia Canada. I collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest, interesting clocks and clock stories when I search for new acquisitions.
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
In the spring of 2015 I began my journey into blogging. The first few months of writing about clocks, clock collecting and repair were very challenging. How could I interest those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but have just a passing interest? As time went by I began to realize that there was plenty to write about, that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and that there is much to learn.
This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the knowledge gained from those experiences.
Cuckoo clock
As I write this article my blog has over 49,000 total views, 33% from United States, 17% from Canada and the remainder from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries. The top 5 articles this year were:
Mauthe Mantel Clock
Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
What is my clock worth?
How to wind a mechanical clock
U.M. Muller Box Clock
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. In the past year alone viewership has doubled. My visitors average 1.8 articles per visit with an average of 88 views on a typical day in 2017. November and December peaked at 100+ views per day.
Swiss made smoothing broaches
Providing enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return is always a challenge. I post 7 articles a month, sometimes one or two extra, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest. I also inject historical horological context as much as possible.
I receive about 30+ comments per month on average. All comments and inquiries are welcomed. Interesting comments come from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, strategies for repair and information about the history of their clock. All questions are answered to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock, circa 1870
In 2018 my intent is to continue to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as profiling my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also plan to explore special areas of interest.
Future articles include, “Letting a clock sit without running”, “Mercedes clock – not made by the car folks”, my 4th Arthur Pequegnat clock, a second installment of the Waterbury Ogee 30 hour clock, a mini New Haven Ogee that has some curious modifications, how to set up your grandfather clock, “What style clock do I have?” and more Crazy Clock Ads.
Ingraham Huron mantel clock circa 1878
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock
Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note. If you like what you are reading express “Like” it at the end of each article.
Thanks for your comments, your encouragement and your continued support.
We were making our way to Missouri after beginning our journey in Maine in early May (2017). We only had one very important stop along the way because for the past 5 years I have always wanted to see the NAWCC clock museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania. Ever since I seriously wrapped my head around clock collecting and repair my dream was to visit this museum. Getting there was no problem but Interstate traffic is truly a disaster! Unfortunately, we budgeted too little time for a thorough tour in the hour and a half we had but we saw as much as we could in that short time.
Waiting in a hot parking lot for the museum to open was not much fun. Couldn’t you just open the front doors a little earlier than 10:00am? To kill time we walked around the town of Columbia. It might be neat and tidy place and one of the “top twenty small towns to visit in America”, so the sign says, but like all small towns in America the decline is evident in the number of vacant storefronts and absence of activity in the streets.
Sign in Columbia Penn.
We finally got into the museum. We (my wife and I) were the first in and being a NAWCC member my wife and I got in free. During our time there we saw only one other couple. So, not a terribly busy time but there are likely peak periods in the summer.
I was wondering how I would describe my visit to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Museum in Columbia Pennsylvania on that day in May. It was wonderful and more than I had imagined. There is simply not enough time to see everything and take it all in. The museum is very well laid out and there are displays to please everyone.
Vienna Regulator with Grande Sonnerie movement
For me the highlight has to be Engels Monument Clock (see Youtube video below). There was only ourselves and one other couple at the time so we were happy that the staff were able to put on a real show for us. The staffer walked us through the history of the clock and followed with a fascinating demonstration. AS he did so I imagined what it must have like to attend a local fair and see this wonderful clock in action. The clock was exhibited around the country for 74 years and last displayed in 1951 at the Ohio State Fall.
There is an emphasis on American clocks as you would expect but there are excellent examples of French, German, English and Japanese clocks. There is a broad selection of tall case clocks all the way back to the 1700s The history of time was very interesting as are the interactive displays which I am sure would please any children visiting the museum.
In a later article I will post more photos.
Whether you are an avid collector or merely have a casual interest in clocks this is great place to visit.
As a clock collector I have quite a few clocks in my home. Most are running daily. There are 34 clocks ticking away in my home as I write this blog article.
I have accepted them as normal sounds in my home
Some collectors have a dedicated clock room in their home but mine are scattered throughout the house. I try to arrange each one so that it fits more or less into the decor of the room. It is a big house and thankfully we have quite a few rooms in which I can display my clocks. I have all manner and styles of clocks including mantel, wall clocks, shelf clocks, carriage clocks, desk clocks, anniversary clocks but just one floor clock. My particular preference is wall clocks; I have 13 of them.
Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator and Seth Thomas round top
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon in an upper hallway
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock atop a Stromberg Carlson radio
So how do I put up with the cacophony of clock noises in the house? One, I thoroughly enjoy the sound of a mechanical clock and two, I have accepted them as normal sounds in my house.
However, there are rules in our house.
No striking or chiming clocks in or near the master bedroom.
No clocks in the bathrooms.
Clocks are stopped in those areas where guests are sleeping unless they do not object.
Are there clocks in the bedroom? Of course, three to be exact. Two are 400 day clocks like the one in the next photo and the third is a banjo clock.
9 inch miniature 400 day Kundo clock
The Ingraham Nordic banjo clock has a front-wind lever escapement and I would challenge anyone to hear this clock across a room. Is is no louder than an old alarm clock. The 400 day clocks are, of course, virtually silent.
We have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it
Ingraham Nordic Banjo Clock
This is my advice to those of you who love mechanical clocks but are bothered by the “noise”:
Some clocks are loud tickers and some are not. As a general rule American clocks tend to be much louder tickers than German or French clocks. Loud clocks should be placed in noisy areas
Avoid clocks that have a striking or a chiming train. If you are not fond of the sound of an hourly or quarter hour strike clock, simply search for a time-only clock.
Most chiming clocks (Westminster chimes are the most common) have a shut-off feature located on the dial face.
For time and strike clocks simply wind the time side only. However, purists would say that this is not good for the clock.
Carriage clocks, clocks with lever escapements (like the Nordic above) and 400 day clocks are exceptionally quiet and do not normally strike or chime (however, some carriage clocks do strike).
Locate your clocks in an area where you will not be bothered by them, a dedicated room, for instance.
Stop your clock or never wind it. Perhaps you can appreciate your clock as a piece of art or furniture rather than as a timepiece.
For the nostalgic, run your clocks only at certain special times of the year.
Mauthe Box clock
I rarely hear my clocks. Yes, I am aware of the ticking if I stop and listen. By and large I am not at all bothered by the sounds of my clocks. In fact, we have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful bim-bam sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it.
Regulating your clock is the process of making repeated, precise adjustments to its mechanism with the goal of enhancing its accuracy and ensuring it functions as a reliable timekeeper over an extended period.
The running of your mechanical clock is influenced by three key factors: neglect, friction, and the environment. These elements will determine whether your clock can maintain accurate timekeeping. The article ends with tips on regulating your clock and the effects of mainspring power on timekeeping.
Let’s look at each factor.
Neglect
Neglect is easy to understand: without proper care, a clock will lose its reliability as a timekeeper. Placing a clock in a sunny spot, especially in a hot window, can cause the case to age prematurely and dry out the movement. Setting a clock near a heat source, like a heating vent, can affect its performance. Transporting a weight-driven clock without securing the weights can result in broken case parts and shattered glass. Moving a pendulum clock without removing the pendulum can cause internal damage.
Additionally, turning the hands backward should be avoided unless the manufacturer specifically permits it in the clock’s instructions.
Using a winding crank
Friction
Each moving part of a clock must be in optimal condition. The gear train should move freely, but excess friction will negatively impact the clock’s performance. Regular lubrication is crucial to prevent this. Friction causes wear, and over time, wear can lead to costly and time-consuming repairs. As bushing wear accelerates, the clock’s functionality will deteriorate, eventually causing it to stop.
Close-up of bushing wear; the pivot hole is oval when it should be circular
It’s good practice to inspect your clock’s movement every year or two and add oil if the pivots are dry. If you notice a buildup of thick, dirty oil around the pivot holes during your inspection, it’s time to service the clock’s movement. This can be done either by you, if you have the necessary skills, or by a clock specialist.
Six bushings installed on the back plate of a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock movement
Once the lubricating oil is used up or dries out the clock continues to run but the wheels are running without lubrication in their pivots holes. Once the pivot holes are enlarged (see above) the gears begin to run too deep into each other and the clock eventually stops. In clock circles the proper function of one gear operating with another, smoothly is referred to as “meshing”. Once wear becomes a factor, winding the springs no longer helps, as the springs lack sufficient power, or the gears fail to mesh properly, preventing them from overcoming friction in the gear train.
This leads some owners to think the clock is stopping due to being “over-wound,” when in reality, it’s simply worn out, or there is so much debris and dried oil in the mainspring that it sticks and refuses to unwind.
Preventative maintenance can help avoid costly repairs.
Servicing a clock is a separate topic altogether but black or green oil around or in the pivot holes is an indication that re-oiling will be ineffective; dis-assembly and cleaning of the movement is necessary.
Mixing old, dirty clock oil with new oil will speed up wear, and adding more oil won’t improve its performance.
Environment
Changes in the ambient temperature of your environment will affect it’s timekeeping rate. It is quite common to make seasonal adjustments to your clock. If you are in a temperate climate such as my part of the world, humidity, and temperature changes have a noticeable effect on the rate-keeping of any clock. Increasing the ambient temperature will slow it down, from the expansion and lengthening of the pendulum rod (unless it has a compensating type pendulum).
Clocks perform better in the more controlled environment of a home, but damp basements, window sills, bathrooms, areas above heating elements or vents, garages, and other humid spaces are unsuitable for mechanical clocks. Harsh environments can damage both the movement and the case, leading to issues like cracks, fading, and detached veneer in addition to a myriad of problems with the movement.
Pendulum bob with regulating adjustment
Regulating your Mechanical Clock
Regulating a clock often means making incremental changes to the length of the pendulum by means of a rate adjustment screw located at the end of the pendulum, or as in the case of a French clock pendulum (above) a rating screw inside the bob. Turning the rating screw clockwise shortens the pendulum (faster) and counterclockwise lengthens (slower) it.
Usually, one full turn of the screw means adding or subtracting a minute per week. To simplify the process some clocks have a rate adjustment arbour on the dial, typically at the 12 o’clock position. That way you do not have to open the access door at the back of the clock to adjust the rating nut on the pendulum.
Rate adjustment arbor
If you have a double-ended key, the smaller end is used for the rate adjustment arbour. The “S” (slow) and “F” (fast) settings correspond to adjusting the clock’s speed—slowing it down or speeding it up. Clocks may have either one of these adjustments, but sometimes both (adjustable pendulum and rate adjustment arbor), as on this French shelf clock.
French mantel clock
Rate adjustment is a trial-and-error process and typically takes a week or longer. If you can adjust your mechanical clock within a minute or two per week you are doing well. You will gradually gain a feel for the kind of adjustment required to regulate your particular clock.
Clocks without pendulums are those that have lever escapements, floating balance escapements, or balance wheel escapements. Regulation is achieved by moving a lever from slow to fast (as indicated on a wheel for instance) or adjusting weights in one direction or another on the escape wheel. There are specific directions on how to this and it is best to consult the instruction manual on your clock or search for resources online.
Mainspring Power and Regulation
When winding a spring-driven clock you are winding a sturdy coiled metal spring. The mainspring is an energy storage system or a power source. When you turn the key the winding gets tighter until you cannot turn the key any further. This stored energy (or potential energy) is now ready to be released but because a clock has reduction gears and an escapement (method for energy to escape) the energy is designed to be released at a steady and controlled rate. The purpose of the gear train is to convert the slow rotation of the main wheel into the faster rotation needed to tell the time. Each wheel in the train turns faster than the previous one.
A spring-driven clock tends to release most of its energy at the beginning of a cycle and releases less energy towards the end of it’s winding cycle which is typically an 8-day period. Most clocks will run longer than eight days but will lose more time as the spring supplies less power.
Regulating some spring-driven clocks can be challenging due to the way they release their power, though this can vary depending on the clockmaker. If your vintage or antique spring-driven mantel or wall clock is accurate to within 1-2 minutes per week, it’s performing quite well.
Sessions Beveled No 2 tambour style clock and French carriage clock
My Sessions time and strike tambour-style clock typically runs about one minute fast at the start of the week and around one minute slow by the end of the week. This is normal.
This one-weight Vienna wall clock is accurate to within 30 seconds a week
On the other hand, weight-driven clocks are more accurate since they release power at a constant rate through the winding cycle. Weight-driven clocks are generally more reliable timekeepers and are easier to regulate.
Junghans Crispi wall clock with compensating pendulum
Neglect, friction, and environmental factors play a significant role in a clock’s ability to keep accurate time. By ensuring proper maintenance, placing your clock in a location free from heat and humidity, and regularly checking for adequate lubrication, you can extend its lifespan, maintain its value, and enjoy dependable performance for years to come.
This post describes the final detail work on my Junghans clock.
My winter (2017) project was an antique German Junghans Crispi time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was manufactured in Schwenningen, Germany in 1899. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it was the challenge I was waiting for.
A clock in a box, how it came
I wrote a multi-part series on the restoration of this clock. Use the search feature on this site to find past articles. I discovered this antique clock from a seller on an online for-sale site in January (2017) and was intrigued with its incredible history as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion on Dec 6, 1917.
On the morning of 6 December 1917 the SS Mont Blanc a French cargo ship laden with high explosives and Benzol collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Narrows, a strait connecting the upper Halifax harbour to Bedford Basin. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a large explosion that devastated the Richmond District of Halifax. Approximately 2,000 people were killed by blast, debris, fires and collapsed buildings, and an estimated 9,000 others were injured……and a Junghans clock fell off the wall in a house on Princess court, North End Halifax
At first I was not sure how far I would go with this project but I decided I must go all the way towards restoring this clock to its former 19th century glory.
Most of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, coil gong and movement bracket as are the bottom base and top part of the case plus the crown, the backboard, the vertical columns and most of the decorative trim. What has been replaced is the box frame, the front piece that supports the right and left columns. I can only assume that parts of the clock were destroyed beyond repair on that fateful day.
Thirty years ago the previous owner used contemporary materials and techniques to reconstruct the frame and front piece. Although not authentic, I have no objection for two reasons; much of what he has done is unseen and care was taken to replicate period woodworking techniques to reconstruct the case except for the Robertson screws. During the restoration process I have added or in some cases made:
Front glass and 2 side glass panels,
3 glass support rails,
3 top replacement finals,
2 newly constructed top finial bases,
2 brass door hinges,
2 brass door catches,
2 brass case stabilizers,
2 hardwood trim pieces and
6 decorative buttons.
Original 1899 catalog image
I disassembled the movement and in the process made two errors. In my attempt to re-position the star wheel paddle by bending it just a little bit, I managed to snap it off. Although I might have been able to fix it I do not have the tools, yet! I also managed to snap off the paddle wheel arbor spring which is essentially a thin steel rod. Again, I could have fixed it if I had the tools. As a result the strike side did not function. I cleaned and re-assembled the movement, got the movement running and thought, what is my next move?
Very dirty movement; after all it had not been running in years
I might have been content with a time-only clock but I decided that my mission was to have it fully restored. I decided to bring the clock to a horologist that I have used in the past. While it was in the shop, why not have it serviced completely. The horologist did a great job and when I picked it up she remarked that it was the first style of clock she had ever worked on.
What remains? There are two trim item on the left side just below one of the buttons as you can see in the photo below and a corner piece on the right side of the case in the same area.
Let’s see if my skill with router can address these issues.
Missing trim piece, not quite finished!
I took out my vintage Black & Decker router and managed to find the correct bit. Since it is a very small trim piece birch rather than oak would do. I made the measurements using my micrometer. The dimensions had to be precise in order to duplicate the trim piece exactly. I am very pleased with the result. Now for the right side.
Last trim piece, left bottom side
matching trim pieces
I made a corner piece out of birch and glued it in place. In the next two photos you can see the very small piece that fits into the corner trim.
Corner piece is missing
Hardwood replacement piece
Corner piece is glued into place
I am very pleased with the repair.
I posted a reference to this clock in one of my blogs and received a curious letter from someone who thought it was a Chinese clock. I fully understand the comment because the clock is so “blingy”. The many brass buttons and trim items might make one think that it was made in China. It simply reflects the Victorian era, a grand excess of ornament and an eclectic revival of historic styles mixed with middle east and Asian influences in furniture design. A Chinese clock? No, but an understandable error.
Garish Victorian excess but I like it!
It is a clock that will be in our family for years to come
Was it worth the hours of toil and the money to bring this Victorian style clock back to its former glory? Absolutely, without question! The clock works perfectly. The coil gong on the hour and half hour sounds terrific and resonates throughout the house. Visitors to my home are immediately drawn to the clock because of its unique Victorian style. Indeed, it is a clock that will be in our family for years to come.
Would you like to tell the world about your special clock?
Would you like to tell the world about your special clock? Is it a clock you have had for years or was it handed down to you or you did you win it an an auction or find it in a dark corner of an antique store?
Is it a favorite clock you would like to see profiled on this blog? It could be one of the clocks in my collection or it could be one of your own (or several that you own). If you would like to profile your own clock(s) send me as many photos as you can (1 meg each is fine) but include shots of the movement as well. If I use your photos I have your permission to post them. If you are using photos that someone else took (Google or eBay for example) it becomes more problematic from a copyright perspective.
Circa 1890 French Black Marble time and strike desk clock
I will keep your name and location private
Provide me with a history of the clock and/or some interesting details that I could include in the blog article and let me know if you want your name included. If not I can assign an identifier, the first and last letters of your name and of course I will keep your location private.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
This an antique (circa 1895) Mauthe Horse Crown Clock. Some would say it is ugly but I disagree – it is a beautiful clock. Some would even say it is a Vienna Regulator style of clock. PS has a different opinion.
PS says. “Happy to see this – my parents in law had exactly the same clock ! The wood was brighter and the horse stood (a bit loose) on the roof directly, so most likely a part was missing. We have destroyed (yes! yes!) the wooden case – quite a tough job, German quality. We found it sooo ugly, sooo old-fashioned! We left the the metal parts alive, though. The clock needs maintenance, because it does not continue to tick. I could send it for free to a clock-lover for a build-in somewhere. Any hints? Greetings from Brussels, Belgium”.
This why it is called Horse Crown clock
My reply. “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I think it is a good looking clock but it is only my opinion. If it has the same movement as my Mauthe you could send it to me for use as parts should my Mauthe decide to stop.”
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator Braunau factory circa 1902
It has been one year since my wife presented me with a Vienna Regulator wall clock as a retirement gift. I was in heaven! I always wanted a Gustav Becker clock. I thought it was the holy grail of clocks. As I delve more deeply into this hobby and have the benefit of a greater knowledge of the world of clocks this past year I am learning that there were other more desirable makers of that period (1850s to 1900) but I have my Gustav Becker and I have no regrets.
It has been an interesting time and one of the most significant horological experiences for me in the past year. This clock has taught me a lot.
The hands may look nice but they are incorrect for the period
This was a project clock and my first experience with a non-working clock that bought with it a number of not insurmountable issues. The side and front glass panels may look original but they are replacements after the glass broke during shipping. I brought it to a local glass shop and they installed the glass. I should have bought a old window with the wavy glass to use as a replacement as one reader suggested. I just did not think of it at the time.
The original movement was missing vital strike side parts
The original movement was missing vital strike side parts. Fighting with the seller who misrepresented the condition of the movement got me nowhere. I had to find a replacement movement and it had to be from Gustav Becker’s Braunau factory. Finally, I located a donor movement from Poland. The serial number on the Poland movement told me that it was 16 years newer. Some minor details differentiated the older and newer movement but it was exactly what I was looking for. It was a perfect fit for the case and correct for the pendulum length.
To the casual observer it is a beautiful wall clock befitting the grand period of German clock-making a century ago
What have I learned this past year? I put more than three hundred dollars of repairs into this clock above and beyond the original cost, much more money than the clock is worth. Don’t even get me started on import duties and shipping from the US. I am still riled about that. I am extremely reluctant to make any future clock purchases that require shipping by mail/courier. Others have had positive experiences with shipped clocks – I did not. I find it too much of a gamble. I prefer to buy my clocks in person! Though I won’t go into further detail, this was not a positive buying experience and after a year I am still fighting for compensation from the seller.
Original GB movement with parts missing
How does it look on the wall? A trained eye will see the minor incongruities. To the casual observer it is a beautiful wall clock befitting the grand period of German clock-making a century ago.
This article will explore the notion that a Vienna Regulator clock is not a true regulator. I realize that any discussion of regulator clocks produces a wide variety of conflicting opinions, nevertheless, here is my take subject of the Vienna Regulator and why it is not a true regulator.
The word “regulator” is loosely defined but according to this definition it is a master clock, usually of great accuracy, against which other clocks are checked. Respected collectors like Derek Roberts tend to stay away from defining a regulator clock and instead refer to them as precision pendulum clocks. In this article I will present three examples for the reader to consider.
Every clock that has the word regulator on it is not a regulator
Every clock that has the word regulator on it is not a regulator. Think about it. Why would a clock manufacturer put the word “regulator ” on a clock? It is simply a marketing ploy. The term “regulator” is one that connotes accuracy but in the frantic world of clock marketing it is a word that sells plenty of clocks.
If it was expressly designed as a precision pendulum clock it can be called a regulator
Definition of a regulator
It is not difficult to define a “regulator” by its mechanical characteristics. Regulator clocks were invented in the late 18th century as a quest for greater timekeeping accuracy. If the clock was designed as a precision pendulum clock it can be called a regulator. The principle features of a regulator clock are:
Quality weight driven device,
With maintaining power,
A heavy pendulum (not necessarily mercury),
Generally eight-day movement, though some are more than 8 days,
Has some form of temperature control compensation,
Has a seconds dial,
Is 60 beats per minute,
Has one gear train
Features a deadbeat or pinwheel escapement and
Is expressly engineered to keep accurate time.
Complicated features like calendars and strike trains are omitted in the quest for accuracy. Regulators were (are) capable of extreme accuracy for a mechanical clock.
Does the addition of a strike train take a clock out of the regulator category? In theory, yes. The strike train takes some of the accuracy out of the clock, as the time train produces more friction when lifting the strike levers. If we accept the definition of a regulator as an extremely accurate clock to be used as a time standard, you will not find a strike train on these clocks.
Here are three examples
Example number 1. Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, A Handsome Clock, fitted with a Movement which is un-excelled”, Beautiful Finish on both Movement and Case, (Arthur Pequegnat advertisement)
The Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 clock is often compared to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 as a precision regulator. Many Regulator #1 clocks found their way into offices and rail stations all across Canada. The Regulator #1 is the best timekeeper made by The Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener Ontario (Canada). The company states this in it’s advertising: “A Handsome Clock, fitted with a Movement which is un-excelled“, Beautiful Finish on both Movement and Case” and “The Finest Office Clock Made”! They are weight driven, time-only, at 80 beats per minute, had a deadbeat escapement, with heavy pendulum, eight day movement with a brass weight hung on an iron bracket, maintaining power, a seconds dial and were designed to keep accurate time. It was a reasonably accurate clock used as a time standard.
However, some would argue that at 80 beats per minute it would not be considered a true regulator.
Is this Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 a regulator?
Example number 2. Mauthe “Horse Crown” time and strike spring driven wall clock.
The clock you see in the photo below is typically advertised on online for-sale sites as a “Vienna Regulator”. It is an attractively designed 1890s spring driven, time and strike clock made by Frederick Mauthe. Those individuals who sell these clocks have no hesitation in calling them Regulators. Let’s apply the definition above.
Is this a precision regulator?
A spring driven movement disqualifies it immediately.
Is it not capable of extreme accuracy.
It is 116 beats per minute
Was it conceived and designed as a precision clock? No!
Is this Mauthe horse crown wall clock a Vienna Regulator?
Example number 3. Miniature one-weight Vienna Regulator
This is an Austro-Hungarian era time-only weight driven clock made in the early 1870s. Many would accept this as a Vienna Regulator and would have no hesitation advertising it as such. It has a deadbeat escapement, it has one weight, is a time-only movement, has a heavy pendulum, with an eight day running time and has maintaining power.
Is this one-weight miniature Vienna wall clock a regulator?
Let’s apply the definition above.
Is this a regulator? No!
There is no seconds dial, and, is
80 beats per minute
Is it capable of extreme accuracy. No!
Was it specifically designed as a precision clock? No!
Granted, it is capable of some accuracy but it is not a reference timepiece. However, there is little doubt that some post office and rail clocks in the Vienna style such as this Wilhelm Bauer post office wall clock (below) were considered “regulators” in their day when common folk set their watches and clocks by them.
Is this Wilhelm Bauer post office clock a regulator?
The Vienna Regulator clock and its characteristics
The Vienna Regulator is a particular style of clock made in Germania or the Austrian empire. They are characterized by finely crafted (ornate at times) cases with accurate movements. While they were capable of keeping good time, they were not designed as a precision instrument and were not capable of extreme accuracy. They have some but not all the characteristics of a regulator but they are not a true regulator. While the Vienna Regulator may not be true regulator it reflected not only the style and craftsmanship of the period they were made but the quest for accuracy. No one can argue that the best workmanship and attention to detail were put into the many clocks that were produced during what some might call the pinnacle of clock design and engineering.
As much as they are called regulators the three examples presented above are not true regulators. Regulators were (are) capable of extreme accuracy for a mechanical clock and nothing I have in my collection remotely qualifies as a regulator.
However, in the world of clock collecting and repair it is perfectly acceptable to continue referring to them as regulators since they are generally accepted as such. The word regulator has become part of the lexicon of collectors even if they do not strictly fall within the definition of a true regulator clock.
My current project is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was made in Schwenningen, Germany. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.
This is Part 3.5 of a now three point five part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock.
This is Part III and a half of a series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock. In Part I described the circumstances by which I came across this clock and it’s incredible story as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion on Dec 6, 1917. In Part II I walk the reader through the servicing of the time and strike movement. In Part III I talk about the challenges of restoring the case.
I felt compelled to write Part 3.5 of the series showing the work I completed on the crown and the additional case work. I wasn’t sure how far I would go in restoring the case but the top finials are so essential to the final look of the clock that I decided to add these important elements.
The original finials might have been a little taller and wider much like the bottom centre finial
I bought three 3 and 3/4 inch finials from Timesavers. A wood lathe would have been ideal if I had one. I tried to imagine how the original finials looked and took a chance on what I felt were the most ornate without being too ostentatious. I believe they do it justice and complete the clock. The original finials might have been a little taller and wider much like the bottom centre finial but Timesavers has a rather limited selection. If I come across something closer in design in the future I can simply pull these out since they are not glued in place.
Support post for middle finial
As you can see above, I have clamped the final bases to the crown and test fit the three top finials which had just been given their first coat of stain. The support post is made of oak and anchors the crown to the case. It will eventually be screwed in place. The post not only attaches the crown to the top of the case but also supports the middle finial base (next photo).
Test fitting the top finial
The lion’s head on the crown has also been nailed in place using its existing holes.
Buttons and decorative nails
The case has an unusual number of decorative nails and buttons. Fortunately most of these decorative trim items came with the clock. Everything you see in the photo above is original save for the upper two floral brass buttons. Years of grime and dirt has been removed from the original decorative buttons, nails and pins.
Crown in place with all three new finials
The clock reflected the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) of showy complicated designs with an emphasis placed on bright and brassy surface decoration
The crown is in position although for the moment it is merely sitting in place. I have added two new decorative nails to the finial bases. Although they are not exactly in the style of the other decorative nails, they are in keeping with the period look of the clock. The two brass buttons on either side of the movement support bracket (above photo) are replacements. The buttons, nails and trim pieces on the top part of the case, are original and cleaned up nicely.
Full view of case
This is a full view of the case with all decorative nails, buttons and trim pieces attached. Below the movement support bracket and on the side columns are two half moon wood pieces (one round decorative pressed wood applique cut in half) that replicate the original detail.
The clock is very garish; some might even call it gaudy. Other clocks I have from this period (1899) are not as pretentious as this one. This look may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it appeals to me. I am sure that it will always be an interesting conversation given its fascinating history. Overall, I would say that the clock accurately reflects the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) with showy complicated designs and an emphasis placed on bright and brassy surface decoration.
Final look with crown attached and movement installed
The above photo shows the case with movement, pendulum, face, brass bezel and hands attached. At this point the clock is about 90% complete. The final steps in this project are securing the door to the frame with hinges purchased from a supplier, attaching the door catches, installing “new” glass, applying a protective top coat finish using Minwax semi gloss wipe-on poly and finding a way to replicate a wood trim insert piece on the left column just above the rectangular brass decorative piece.
Arrow indicating missing trim piece
The clock came without the glass and it obviously must be replaced. I managed to find an old glass window in my area with sufficient “waviness” to replicate the glass at the time. I will have the glass cut and installed by a repair shop locally.
In the final analysis is this a restoration, repair or a replication?
Much of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, coil gong and movement bracket as are the bottom base and top part of the case and the crown, the back board, the vertical columns and most of the decorative trim. What has been replaced is the box frame and the front piece that supports the right and left columns. The previous owner used contemporary materials and techniques to reconstruct the frame and front piece. Although not authentic, I have no real objection because much of what he has done is unseen. I have added or will have added some decorative trim pieces, new glass, 3 new finials, hinges and catches, finial bases, used yellow carpenter’s glue where absolutely necessary, stained the case and will remove the rust on the coil gong.
In the final analysis is this a restoration, repair or a replication? Perhaps all three. However, to the casual observer it is an attractive albeit brash, lovingly restored antique Junghans Crispi wall clock that fell off a wall, in Halifax, Nova Scotia on that fateful day, December 6, 1917.
I hope you enjoyed the series and if you have any comments, ideas or suggestions do not hesitate to leave me a message.
This is what happens when you get a clock in a box. Call it a collection of parts, pieces and dust. This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. There is no serial number on the movement, dating the clock to 1899 or earlier (in 1900 Junghans began to number their movements). To some a box of clock pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.
Where to start?
It was advertised on a local online for-sale site as a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion and I thought, well, that’s an intriguing story! As most Canadians know, the Halifax Explosion was a significant event in Canada 100 years ago.
On the morning of 6 December 1917 the SS Mont Blanc a French cargo ship laden with high explosives and Benzol collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Narrows, a strait connecting the upper Halifax harbour to Bedford Basin. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a large explosion that devastated the Richmond District of Halifax. Approximately 2,000 people were killed by blast, debris, fires and collapsed buildings, and an estimated 9,000 others were injured.
The result was the largest human-made explosion prior to the detonation of the first atomic bombs in 1945. Nearly all structures within an 800-metre (2,600 ft) radius, including the entire community of Richmond, were obliterated. This clock is a witness to that day. In 1918, Halifax sent a Christmas tree to the City of Boston in thanks and remembrance for the help that the Boston Red Cross and the Massachusetts Public Safety Committee provided immediately after the disaster. That tradition carries through to this day.
The case is cleaned up and we are visualizing where the parts go
It appears that the parts have literally sat in a box for the past 100 years.
The blast not only shattered the glass panels but heavily damaged the box frame. It appears that most of the parts have literally sat in a box for the past 100 years. I cannot imagine when the movement last worked, probably ticking its last on that fateful morning in December. Since the box frame was damaged beyond repair following the explosion, the seller, an amateur woodworker, built a new frame made of softwood and oak veneers some 30 years ago. You can see the lighter coloured pieces in the photo below that were never stained and finished. He admits that he knows nothing about clocks and eventually lost interest in the project. I am impressed with his skills since the work on the frame looks solid and well constructed.
Top centre final is missing as well as two other finials
The top centre final is missing, two other finials and some small trim pieces
Why was he letting it go? He said there had been a change in his life and it was time to move on. When I asked him about the history of the clock he said that his wife’s grandparents lived on Princess Place in North End Halifax. Princess Place is further south of the main area of devastation so houses in that area would have sustained heavy structural damage. The clock was blown off the wall by the blast wave. The clock remained in the family all these years, the seller having received it from his wife’s aunt.
I took it home stared at the box for a while trying to decided whether or not I made the right decision. I then set to determine what steps I should take to restore this fine clock. I poked through the box to see what was there and began to itemize the parts, arranging them on the case as best I could and proceeded to clean the case and determine the next steps. I was fortunate to have had someone send me the actual catalog image of the clock which you can see below.
The clock is called the Crispi by Yunghans. Yunghans is a reputable German clock-maker and continues in the watch business to this day. This is what the clock should look like and it will be a excellent guide for restoration. There will be obviously be some subtle differences between my clock and the clock in the catalog when the project is completed but to the casual eye it will look exactly the same.
The Crispi model in the 1902 Junghans catalog
Junghans trademark
Time and count-wheel strike movement
I have ordered the following parts from Timesavers; 3 new finials in the style that best fits the clock, 2 door hinges, 2 door latches and some trim pieces. I will have to build the bases for the finials from scratch. The lower section of an oak spindle will do just fine. There are other trim items that are missing but I will strategically arrange the remaining trim pieces as best I can.
Oak stairway spindle
The best news is that the movement is complete and in working order. The movement ran for a day on a test stand before I stopped it. It needs a very thorough cleaning which will be the next step in this project.
In Part II I will describe cleaning the movement and any issues that may arise as a result of disassembly.
In Part III I will explain the procedures involved in the case restoration once the remaining parts arrive.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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