Some time ago, I was up for a real challenge when I bought an old clock that seemed hopelessly irreparable. While picking up another clock, the seller threw this one in for a few dollars more. The clock, an Ansonia Extra Drop, was in pieces and had been stored in a barn—literally—for many years. The case had completely come apart, and half the backboard was missing. Most would have thrown out this jumble of parts, but I saw a diamond in the rough.
The movement was intact, but it was the dirtiest I had ever seen. Okay, it looks bad, but might it be saved?
Front of movement showing plenty of rust
It was so rusty that none of the wheels would move. I was less concerned about the wheels and pivots because I knew that once I took it apart and cleaned it up, there was a good possibility that the wheels would move again. The rusty mainspring concerned me, however. A mainspring’s strength can be seriously compromised by the presence of rust. That said, it seemed to me that a surface coating of rust alone should not be too much of a problem.
Back of movement
After cleaning, polishing, and addressing pivot wear, the movement was reassembled, and a deciding the mainspring could be reused; here is the final result.
How well did it function? So well, in fact, that it is now one of my daily runners.
And the case, you might ask? Well, it is not perfect, but I managed to piece together what I had, add a piece of backboard from an old ogee clock, touch up the dial, add a new set of hands, pallets, and crutch, suspension rod, and construct a lower access door. While it may look good from afar, closer scrutiny reveals its rough edges. Most importantly, it tells a story of resurrection.
In the end, what first appeared to be a hopeless, rust-bound movement destined for the garbage can proved otherwise. Does that mean every movement can be successfully brought back to life? No—though for some irreparable clock movements, some parts can be salvaged. However, with careful work, patience, and a willingness to look beyond first impressions, this clock was made to run again.
It served as a reminder that even the most neglected mechanisms often deserve a second look—and that revival is sometimes less about miracles than about time and persistence.
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Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock does not run, and a rusty mainspring is the culprit; the clock was in pretty rough shape when I bought it and the only significant part missing is the brass dial bezel and a number of minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door (which I made later on)
Making a drop door for the Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock; A barn find clock in pieces is a challenge for anyone. It was missing some parts. I discovered that I had enough to make something of it, and whatever was missing could be easily sourced or made.
The challenges of restoring an Ansonia wall clock when parts are scarce; This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2 inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door opens downwards. Other Drop Extra access doors open to the side.
If you’re a collector of any kind, you’ll relate to what I have to say in this blog article. In the early years of collecting anything, many of us follow a very familiar path. We begin with breadth rather than depth, acquiring whatever speaks to us, and for me, it was mantel clocks, shelf clocks, kitchen clocks, the occasional novelty piece, and just about anything that ticked.
One of the enduring truths about horology is that a clock collection, much like anyone who collects, is never static. It ebbs and flows, expands and contracts, and evolves in quiet harmony with the collector’s own journey. Over time, clocks are added, sold off, traded, gifted, or, when age and wear have had their final say, parted out or retired completely. In this way, a clock collection behaves much like the history of clockmaking itself—constantly in motion, shaped by shifting tastes, new discoveries, and changing priorities.
The first antique clock I ever bought, 25 years ago, is still in my collection
But as time passes, so too do our personal preferences. For me, the evolution has been gradual. I now own far fewer mantel and shelf clocks than I once did. Instead, my interests have gravitated toward wall clocks—regulators, Vienna-style pieces, and distinctive works by specific makers, especially those connected to Canada’s own horological heritage. Collectors often narrow their focus as their knowledge grows. It is a natural growth.
Even recently, the changing nature of a collection becomes clear in unexpected ways. Just the other day, a clock enthusiast emailed me asking if I could measure the glass door bezel of a clock for a replacement piece of glass. Unfortunately, I couldn’t help because I had parted with that clock four or five years ago, even though I had written about it several times in blog posts. It was a reminder that clocks, like memories, pass through our lives and collections, leaving traces of their stories even after they’ve moved on.
The clock in question
This change is partly driven by experience. After handling clocks from different eras, regions, and makers—from the mass-produced American clocks of the early 1900s to the quieter Canadian ventures of the early 20th century—we start to notice subtleties: the quality of the movement, the style of the escapement, the character of the case. Some clocks speak to us in a lasting way; others pass through our hands like chapters in a book we enjoyed but will never reread.
A favorite clock in my collection
Practical considerations echo historical realities as well. Just as factories once adapted production methods to suit changing markets, collectors adapt to the constraints of space and lifestyle. Mantel and shelf clocks take up real estate. Wall clocks—particularly regulators and finer makers’ pieces—offer presence without clutter. The shift is natural, almost inevitable.
And then there is the human side of collecting. Some clocks are sold to fund the next important acquisition, just as workshops once sold older stock to invest in improved machinery. Some are gifted to friends or family, continuing a tradition of passing clocks from one generation to the next. A few, too worn or incomplete to justify further effort, end their journey—much as many historical clocks did when changing technology made them obsolete.
Clocks like this attractive Mauthe buffet clock were sold off to acquire new pieces
A living collection tells a story. A static one may be beautiful, but a changing collection reflects the realities of horology—shaped by new finds, practical decisions, sentimental choices, and the gradual shift of personal taste. A changing collection also keeps me enthused and energized.
In the end, our collections evolve as we do. They follow the contours of our interests, the limits of our space, and the discoveries that excite us. Change is constant—each adjustment bringing us closer to the clocks that truly matter to us, those that will remain as markers on our own timeline.
We live in the northern part of Nova Scotia, and a trip to the Annapolis Valley for clock hunting is always a pleasure on an early fall day. It’s one of the province’s most beautiful regions — a mix of rolling hills, orchards, small farms, and picturesque little towns that always seem to welcome you back. Our destination this time was the town ofBerwick, nestled right in the heart of the valley. It’s one of those places where time moves just a little more slowly — fitting, perhaps, for the clock that awaited us there.
Ansonia short dropschoolhouse-style clock
We had planned the trip beforehand, arranging to meet the seller at an agreed-upon time. The seller welcomed us warmly into his home and soon began to share the clock’s story. The clock had been in his family for over fifty years. “I never actually saw it running,” he said with a smile, “but my mother really loved that clock.” His mother had recently passed away, and he was in the midst of settling her estate. It was clear that selling the clock was not easy for him — it held sentimental value, as many family clocks do, but he knew it was time to let things go.
He told me that an antique dealer had been through the house earlier and offered one price for each room. “The clock alone was worth more than what he offered for one whole room,” he said, shaking his head. I could tell he wanted it to go to someone who would truly appreciate it. I promised it would be cared for and restored.
He believed the clock had come from an old schoolhouse in Ontario, decommissioned sometime in the 1950s, though its exact location has been lost to time. One can imagine it ticking away the hours for many years in that classroom.
The pine case is in lovely condition with only minor issues. Around the center of the dial, near the winding holes, some paint has been added — likely an attempt to cover small stains from decades of oily fingers winding and adjusting the clock.
Time only movement
The clock is an Ansonia octagonal short drop, often referred to as a schoolhouse clock. I’d place its manufacture around the turn of the 20th century — likely between 1900 and 1912. The number “12” is stamped on the movement, which may represent the year, though it could also just be a batch mark. The faint Ansonia trademark is still visible, and the letters “TT” are stamped nearby. This was my first Ansonia, and it’s always a thrill to study a new movement up close.
Image from the ad
One issue quickly revealed itself: the hour hand bushing was missing. The bushing provides the necessary friction fit with the cannon pinion, and without it, the hand simply spins. I suspect that’s why the clock was deemed “not working.” Someone probably thought the movement was faulty when, in fact, it was just missing this small part. Fortunately, it’s an easy fix that can be done with a replacement or a handmade bushing.
Dial removed, showing the movement and its curious slope to the left
When I examined the pendulum, I noticed something curious — small pieces of a rotted elastic band on the rod just below the suspension spring. Why it was there, I have no idea. Perhaps someone thought it would steady the pendulum, or maybe it was part of an old improvised repair. These little mysteries often make clock restoration interesting.
After a minor adjustment — a slight bend of the crutch to bring the clock into beat — it began ticking steadily. There’s minimal wear visible, which was confirmed when I removed the movement for a full cleaning and inspection.
Much has been written about the Ansonia Clock Company, once one of the great names in American clockmaking. The company went into receivership just before the 1929 stock market crash — a sign of difficult times ahead. The machinery and dies were later sold to a Russian company, marking the end of an era. It’s always a little sad to think that such a remarkable chapter in horological history closed that way. Clocks bearing the Ansonia name are still sold today, but the name on the dial bears no real connection to the company that once was.
When the new hands arrived in the mail, the final touches were complete. The hour hand came with a proper bushing and fit perfectly on the cannon. The clock, fully serviced now, runs beautifully — a fine old Ansonia, rescued from dormancy and restored to life. It’s now proudly ticking away on my daughter’s office wall in Alberta, keeping time as faithfully as it did more than a century ago.
My collection of clocks is divided between my home in Nova Scotia and our cottage in Central Canada. Part of my collection is there because I am not the type of person who abandons a hobby; I make it a part of my everyday life.
Although not an even split, about 15% of the collection is at our summer cottage in central Canada. The clocks at the cottage, though not particularly special, add a charming ambiance to the space. They often serve as great conversation starters when guests are over, contributing to the cozy and inviting atmosphere.
Let’s begin in the sunroom, the focal centre of our cottage. In this room are two German box clocks, a Mauthe and a Kienzle, which has been a recent acquisition. Joining the two box clocks is a 30-hour Ansonia cottage clock.
Mauthe time and strike box clock(the wall to the left is under construction)Kienzle time and strike box clock
Check out this recently posted article for more information on the Kienzle clock.
Ansonia 30-hour cottage clock
Inside the main part of the cottage which comprises the kitchen, dining, and living area are 3 clocks, a Hemle time and strike weight-driven wall clock, passed on by my wife’s uncle, known as a wag-on-a-wall clock, an Empire time-only gallery-style clock from England, and a 30-hour New Haven miniature ogee.
This New Haven clock might look good from a distance, but closer inspection reveals that the front veneer has been stripped, likely due to significant loss or damage. This condition is not common with old veneered cases but unfortunately, it is what it is.
New Haven mini ogee clock
In our bedroom is one clock, and one clock only, and it is placed there for a reason. It is a time-only GIlbert gallery clock. Gallery clocks, in other parts of the world, may be known pub-clocks, canteen clocks, or office clocks.
Gilbert gallery clock
This time-only gallery-style clock made by the Gilbert Company of USA is nondescript and quite ordinary looking. There is nothing special or distinctive about it but it is in excellent condition.
Check out this articleon how having a clock in the bedroom can aid in getting a restful night’s sleep. The article describes how providing a gentle reminder of the time helps regulate your sleep patterns and creates a more restful environment.
So, there you have it—time flies at my summer cottage with these clocks. They may not be particularly special, but they surely tick all the boxes to enhance my summer experience!
Tick-Talk Tuesday is a special time when I respond to readers’ letters and comments about clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. When the comments and questions are especially complex, I consult with fellow clock enthusiasts within my circle to ensure I offer the most precise and helpful answers possible.
LS writes:
I ran across your web page searching for a particular clock and I’m hoping you might have the connections of which I don’t… in order to help me locate one.
The clock I’m looking to replace a clock that belonged to my parents and was stolen along with a lot of other treasures. It’s an Ansonia “Reminiscence” Model #647. Heavy solid oak, beveled glass with Westminster chimes/key.
If you happen to have one in a private collection you’d be willing to part with, OR if you have any clue where I might be able to locate one… I’d be forever grateful for your assistance.
Thank you so much, and with warmest regards.
My response:
Thank you for your email LS. Would you happen to have a photo of the clock? What style of clock are you referring to, shelf, wall, mantel, or tall case?
LS write back: This was a wall clock, which I amazingly… still have all of the original paperwork on, that came with the clock when my moms mother, my grandmother, bought it for them back in 1989. (four pictures enclosed). The clock catalog I have displays 26 of their clocks produced from 1986-1989. I also included a neat little story that came with the packet, and some directions my mother transcribed, which were undoubtedly given by my father. This clock HAD to be taken care of just right; as nothing else would ever, EVER do! Just shows how attached they were to this clock.
Ansonia clock not made in the USA
My father was stationed at Hickam Field when the attack on Pearl Harbour happened. He was an instrument shop manager in the United States Air Corps. He also spent a good portion of his life in clock and watch repair, including working for a couple of local shops in the St Louis metro area after the war, and discharge. Until the day he died he still had many of the original springs, gears, tools, oil, eye magnifier pieces, etc… stored lovingly in a very nice, old humidor box that he custom built four removable shelves for… so as you can likely assume… this clock, was his “baby.” (I still have that humidor box and several of the pieces from it). I am just heartsick that it was stolen, and when my mother was still alive (she passed in 2012, and dad in 1997), if I didn’t know any better… I might assume that this could’ve been part of what led to her ultimate demise. Truly, it hit extremely hard! Especially since her mother was also gone by that time.
I appreciate any help you can offer in trying to find a replacement for myself and MY family today. It would mean the world to me if I could happen across one. Even though not the original, don’t we all just need a little bit of comfort in our world today, and the warm memories that can sometimes be solely responsible for bringing that comfort? I certainly have all of the care instructions at my disposal! 😉
I’ve about exhausted all avenues in my search for this elusive clock, and unfortunately… Ansonia closed up shop in 2006; ironically, the same year my parent’s clock was taken.
My reply:
Hi, and thanks for the additional information.
Ansonia was a well-known maker of American clocks. The original company, which operated in Connecticut and New York ended operations in 1929.
The trademark was then sold off, more than once, I believe. In 1969 the Nofziger family of Lynnwood, Washington, re-registered the Ansonia trademark and issued clocks with the Ansonia name.
When the Ansonia Clock Co. was “making” clocks in Washington the company was a mere shadow of its former glory.
I say “making” because the company was likely assembling clocks sourced from West Germany with cases also sourced abroad. So, they were either importing the clocks fully assembled or in pieces to be assembled. Since they owned the Ansonia trademark, they simply added it to the dial face. So, not a made-in-America clock.
However, you probably know all this. It is the sentimental value that is most important, and finding the same clock or one similar is your present quest.
While I come across many Ansonia clocks, I have never come across one from the re-registered company. A search of eBay will bring up dozens of New York-made clocks but few if any of ones similar to yours. You will just have to keep looking. However, if one comes up I will certainly let you know.
Eight years ago I came across an intriguing find not far from where I reside—an antique Ansonia octagonal short drop, commonly referred to as a schoolhouse clock. While I estimate its manufacturing date to be around the turn of the 20th century, pinpointing the exact year eluded me.
Ansonia Schoolhouse Clock
The movement bears the stamped number “12,” which could denote the year “1912” or possibly the month of a particular year. Additionally, the letters “TT” are inscribed on the movement. 1912 would sound just about right.
Although not my only Ansonia clock I encounter the Ansonia name less frequently compared to other American clock manufacturers.
Ansonia Clock Co., Made in the U.S.A.
To retreive the clock, my wife and I travelled to the small town of Berwick, nestled in the Annapolis Valley region of Nova Scotia. Berwick is best known as the centre of the province’s apple industry. We set out for a day trip eager to soak in the local scenery and make various stops at roadside stands/gardens along the way, fully aware that the clock we were about to acquire would come with no surprises. Well, it was not perfect!
The gentleman from whom I purchased the clock shared that it had been in his family for over 50 years, yet he had never seen it run. He parted with it during the estate liquidation process following his mother’s passing, as it held sentimental value for her but evidently not for him.
The number 12 and TT stamped on the movement
It originated from a schoolhouse in Ontario, Canada, although the specific location eluded the seller. Despite minor issues, such as paint applied around the minute/hour pipe to conceal stains from years of handling, the softwood case remains in very good condition.
However, it was missing a bushing for the hour hand, an easy fix. Remarkably, I discovered remnants of rotted elastic banding on the pendulum rod just below the suspension spring, though its purpose remains a mystery to me.
Nevertheless, following several adjustments, including bending the crutch to ensure proper alignment, the clock functioned but a servicing was necessary. I found the need for 3 new bushings in the spring-driven time-only movement. While the wear wasn’t severe, it warranted attention. A new hour and minute hand, sourced from a supplier completed the servicing.
The most worn bushing hole, highlighted to illustrate the wear
The Ansonia Clock Company’s storied history adds an intriguing layer to this find. Unfortunately, the company, formed in 1851, had a long history of supplying clocks to the masses but its demise prior to the 1929 stock market crash serves as a poignant reminder of shifting economic tides.
The clock is now gone but to a good home. Approximately three years ago, when my daughter was setting up an office in her new home, she expressed interest in acquiring the clock, which she considered the perfect decoration for her new workspace. “Certainly,” I replied, and now it proudly occupies a prominent spot in her office.
My collection boasts more than 90 clocks, with 51 on display throughout my home, 6 at our summer cottage, and 19 running non-stop. The majority of my 90 clocks are operational, although I periodically switch out some of them to maintain the 19 that run continuously.
One clock remains in its place in an upper hallway. One might assume that the clock is the priciest, rarest, most intricately designed, or possesses highly unique features. However, it’s quite the opposite—it is very plain, unremarkable in appearance, and a clock that some would consider unworthy of repair. Opinions may differ but I leave it up to you, the reader.
It is a circa 1895 Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock made by the Ansonia Brass and Copper Co. but is missing two essential features, the brass bezel for the clock dial and the lower access door (more on the door later). Otherwise, the clock came with most of its parts.
This clock has seemingly journeyed through life with its smile turned upside down. It’s a genuine barn discovery, and one can only speculate about the years it had spent scattered in pieces gathering dust and rust without knowing that it would be resurrected one day.
I brought the clock home wondering what to do
After bringing the clock home, I found myself considering its future. At first, I debated whether to salvage the movement, the veneer, the finials, or the frame, or simply discard the clock altogether since its cost was negligible.
Then it dawned on me that despite missing some components, the clock could be revived. The idea of the clock languishing unused and neglected evoked feelings of sympathy, which I admit is a strange feeling for an inanimate object. In our throw-away world today perhaps the value in reviving and cherishing something that had been forgotten or overlooked, restoring its purpose and significance, led me to appreciate it even more.
Eight years ago, I was enthusiastic and eager to acquire clocks to work on them, and given my beginner status in movement servicing and case repair, I entertained the idea of using it as a learning platform for restoration. Repairing a broken clock always provides a valuable learning experience, allowing one to develop new skills in mechanics, craftsmanship, and problem-solving, which can be applied to future projects.
Let’s go through the steps I followed for this project.
The Movement
The time-only movement was encrusted with rust, presenting a significant challenge to restore it to working order. I spent considerable time scrubbing, cleaning, and meticulously sanding away the rust from the pivots and other steel parts.
The movement was seized and coated in rust
While I initially considered replacing a severely rusted mainspring, upon closer inspection, I realized that much of the rust was superficial, leading me to reconsider the need for replacement.
On the test stand
Eventually, my efforts paid off, and I succeeded in getting the movement to run smoothly once again.
The case
Next, attention turned to the case. While a significant portion of the original label remained intact on the backboard, a section had broken off and was lost forever.
Ansonia backboard with partial labeland glued piece
To remedy this, I found a suitable backboard piece from an old ogee clock cut a piece to fit, and glued it in place. The backboard is attached to the clock case in the photo below.
The clock came without an access door
The case was also missing its access door, and rather than leaving the clock without one, I built a door frame using pieces of softwood. I then applied salvaged veneer from another project, gluing it onto the frame. Shaping old veneer over doweling is a challenging task, but I did my utmost to accomplish it as well as I could.
Not a perfect veneer job but good practice nonetheless
The rest of the case repair involved bringing the pieces together with glue and then applying traditional shellac to enhance the intricate, fine-grained characteristics of the rosewood veneer. To complete the project the dial required some paint touchups and suitable hands were sourced from a clock parts supplier.
Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock
While not the most aesthetically pleasing clock by any measure, it symbolizes the trials of restoring a seemingly hopeless clock, transforming it into a functional piece that serves its purpose reliably every day.
However, its greatest achievement lies in offering me a valuable learning platform that I can apply to future projects. Every time I pass by the clock It reminds me not only of the work I put into the clock but moreover, that not all is lost and that certain things are indeed worth preserving.
During the winter months, I teach part-time in a justice program at our local community college. The other day, I had a former student visit this blog and she commented on her admiration for one of my clocks, specifically a time and strike crystal regulator by Ansonia.
Thanks, Cate for allowing me the opportunity to profile this clock once again!
American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators
First a history of how I acquired the clock and what I know about it. While exploring an antique shop in Bloomfield, Ontario, my wife came across an intriguing find – an antique glass-cased brass time-and-strike American-made clock with an open Brocot escapement, manufactured by Ansonia.
This particular clock, featured in the 1905 Ansonia catalog under the name “Prism,” was priced at $29.00, a substantial sum for its time. It was the simplest design in the crystal regulator line and the lowest-priced model.
Collectors in the clock world frequently have discussions regarding the proper name for these clocks. Are they four-glass clocks or crystal regulators?
Ansonia Crystal Regulatorshowing the Brocot escapementwith jeweled pallets
A “four-glass clock” is a broader term referring to clocks with glass panels on all four sides, while a “crystal regulator” is a more specific subtype of mantel clock known for its transparent glass panels and often associated with high-quality craftsmanship. The primary differences lie in the design, purpose, and origin. The term “crystal regulator” is used specifically for American clocks that fall under the broader category of four-glass clocks, distinguished by transparent panels on all sides. Conversely, a French-made clock with a similar appearance is generally referred to simply as a four-glass clock.
The pendulum vials contain nickel slugs
While both types typically feature Brocot escapements, there’s a notable distinction in the pendulum design. Many four-glass French clocks incorporated mercury-filled pendulum vials, whereas American crystal regulators utilized nickel slugs within transparent vials.
American Crystal Regulators were essentially replicas of French regulators, boasting similar design elements such as a stylistic gong block, visible Brocot escapements, round movement plates, and beveled glass panels. However, they were an economical alternative to the French clock.
French regulators, crafted by high-profile makers like Japy, Marti, Vincenti, and Mougin, were highly esteemed and often included mercury pendulums. In the American market, Ansonia and Seth Thomas were prominent manufacturers of such clocks. They were not built to the higher standards of a French clock and were priced accordingly. Nonetheless, American Crystal Regulators have become sought-after by clock collectors.
American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators
The four glass panels of this clock are in very good shape, with only a small corner chip on one panel, which I discovered a few days after purchasing the clock. Fortunately, the chip is not visible from the front. The glass was likely damaged during a servicing session.
Overall, the clock is in good condition for its age and was made somewhere between 1905 and 1910. The brass, though tarnished, cleaned up nicely with the use of a cleaner. The brass was also lacquered to maintain its shine and protect it from deterioration.
On the bench and before disassembly
Upon acquiring the clock, it was not in running order, and my initial evaluation suggested that all it might require was a thorough cleaning and some bushing work. There was certainly a small amount of wear and the movement required 5 bushings, all on the front plate.
After disassembling, cleaning, and addressing wear, it ran without issue. Now, it’s one of several clocks that run weekly.
I would have to say it is one of the more unique clocks in my collection.
Antique wall clocks hold sentimental and aesthetic value, and preserving them often requires delicate restoration work. Purchasing replacement glass and securing it to a frame is one such restoration project.
Securing glass to the bezel of an antique clock can be achieved in several ways. It can be secured with tacks or clips or in the case of a metal bezel, brass tabs are soldered into the frame once the glass is in place. However, securing the glass to a wooden bezel can be more easily achieved by using Plaster of Paris.
Ansonia Extra Drop time-only wall clock(pendulum removed)
This versatile material, which can be found in any hardware store, when mixed with water, creates a durable and easy-to-use bonding plaster. In this step-by-step guide, we’ll walk you through the process of using Plaster of Paris to secure glass to the bezel of an antique wall clock.
Upon acquiring my Ansonia Extra Drop time-only clock, crafted in the early 1880s by the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company, I faced the challenge of its restoration as you can see in the following photo.
Trash or treasure?
Despite its seemingly hopeless condition, the clock retained its essential components, with the sole exception of the brass dial bezel. Although the movement was encrusted with dirt, it remained intact and presented a salvageable opportunity for restoration.
Time-only movement
After considerable sanding, rust removal, freeing of seized wheels, and subsequent bushing work, the movement miraculously began to run.
After a thorough cleaning
However, the glass was not securely fixed in its bezel and was temporarily held in place by tacks. I needed a more lasting solution to ensure the glass was firmly secured so, I opted for Plaster of Paris.
Except for the Plaster of Paris and the custom-cut glass, all the materials needed for this project are common items found in any household.
Materials Needed:
Plaster of Paris
Cold water
Mixing bowl
Stirring stick, spatula, putty knife
Correctly sized glass from a clock supplier
Paper towels or soft cloth
Sandpaper
Paint and brushes
Step 1: Detach the wood bezel from the clock case. Prepare the clock bezel by removing the glass and cleaning the bezel thoroughly. Use a soft cloth to wipe away any dust or debris. If the bezel has any imperfections, lightly sand the surface to create a smooth and clean area for the plaster.
Remove bezel
Step 2: Mix the Plaster of Paris. The instructions on the Plaster of Paris package call for a two-to-one mixture (two parts plaster to one part water) which is far too thin. I have found that three to one or more is optimal to achieve the right consistency. Mix the dry plaster with cold clean water in a bowl; it should be the firmness of a thick paste. Stir the mixture thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, lump-free consistency.
Step 3: Secure the glass onto the cleaned bezel. If the glass moves too much, use painter’s tape or masking tape to temporarily secure it in place. This will prevent the glass from shifting while applying the plaster.
No special tools are required
Step 4: Use a spatula or a one-inch putty knife (preferred) to carefully apply the plaster by spreading the mixture around the edges of the glass and onto the bezel. Ensure that the plaster is evenly distributed and covers the entire edge of the glass. Take your time to avoid air bubbles and uneven application. You have six to eight minutes of working time before the plaster begins to set.
Do not mix more material than can be used during the six to eight-minute period. However, if you have any left, simply find a hole in a nearby wall to patch.
Application of the plaster
Step 5: Once the plaster is applied, use a wet finger or a damp cloth to smooth and shape the edges. Pay close attention to the corners and make sure the plaster forms a neat, even seal between the glass and the bezel.
Step 6: Remove excess plaster before the plaster fully sets, by using a wet cloth and a putty knife to trim the edges. This will give the restoration a professional and polished appearance.
Allow to thoroughly dry
Step 7: Plaster of Paris hardens in about 30 minutes. Avoid disturbing the clock during this time to ensure a secure bond between the glass and the bezel.
Mixing acrylic water-based multi-surface paint
Step 8: Plaster of Paris is paintable.
Sanding the plaster before applying the paint
Touch up the bezel with paint. Aim to replicate the subtle hue of aged putty for a more authentic appearance.
Cure the Plaster of Paris for 24 hours before applying paint. Sand the rough areas with 200-grit sandpaper. Wipe down with a damp cloth. Apply the paint with an artist’s brush or equivalent. Allow the paint to dry completely before reassembling the clock.
Plaster of Paris in the bezel will contribute to a slight increase in weight, but the trade-off is enhanced rigidity.
The plaster is tinted to resemble aged putty
Using Plaster of Paris to secure the glass to the bezel of an antique wall clock is a straightforward and cost-effective process that, when done correctly, can not only keep the glass securely in place but will add to the clock’s appearance with the added benefit of enhancing the structural integrity of the glass within its bezel.
Following these steps will go a long way towards preserving the beauty of your antique clock for years to come.
The origin of the name “schoolhouse clock” is not well-documented, and it appears that the term was not used during the time these clocks were made. Instead, it was later coined by collectors to describe a particular style of clock commonly found in school settings.
Gilbert Admiral with calendar function
Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American schoolhouses due to their larger, easy-to-read dials. They were widely hung in schoolrooms across Canada and often had simple time-only movements, although some versions included a calendar function or time and strike movements. These clocks had a utilitarian look and were known for their durability.
Ansonia Schoolhouse Clockwith 12-inch dial
The design of schoolhouse clocks is believed to be influenced by English drop dial fusee clocks, which were produced in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Drop dials closely resembled schoolhouse clocks and featured conical constructions with a chain or gut line pulled by a mainspring barrel, providing even power release for improved accuracy. Complicated movements such as these did not find their way into inexpensive mass-produced American and Canadian schoolhouse clocks.
When purchasing a clock, the author always asks the seller about its history and provenance.
Sessions Drop Octagon time only schoolhouse clock
In the case of the Sessions Drop Octagon wall clock pictured above, the seller had acquired it from a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in Springhill, Nova Scotia. The clock, dating back to the 1920s, features a solid oak case, original hands, a pressed brass pendulum bob, a solid brass bezel, and a tin dial pan with stenciled lower glazing. While the paper dial showed signs of discoloration and wear, the clock was in reasonably good condition for its age.
Upon bringing the clock home, the author discovered that it ran for only a short time before stopping. A rubbing sound around the pendulum area indicated that the pendulum bob was hitting the inside of the case. After correcting a bent crutch rod, cleaning the movement, and making some adjustments, the clock started running properly. The author considered replacing the paper dial, which had brownish spots from prolonged exposure to moisture but decided to keep it as part of its history.
Time-only movements, like the one in this schoolhouse clock, are relatively easy to work on, making them suitable for beginners in clock collecting and repair.
While the exact origin of the term “schoolhouse clock” remains uncertain, it has become a permanent part of the clock collector language. These clocks, with their distinct style and large dials, were commonly found in early North American schoolhouses and have since gained sentimental value and recognition among collectors.
Repurposing old antique clock parts can offer numerous benefits. For clock repair persons, these parts can serve as a convenient source for replacement components.
All clock repair persons consider this to be a best practice because it is sustainable, reduces waste, and conserves valuable resources.
Repurposing also provides an affordable means of obtaining rare and elusive parts for clock repair or restoration projects.
A case in point
Some years ago, I stumbled upon a seller who had four clocks for sale for just $20. It was a barn find in the true sense of the word.
I talked to the seller by phone and purchased them without knowing their condition. Upon inspection, I found that three of them had cases in poor condition but intact mechanical movements, making them well worth the purchase alone.
Although none of the clocks were particularly valuable, they were found in the same barn, all dusty and rusty, cast aside many years ago. In the eyes of the seller, the clocks were one step closer to the trash bin.
I considered resurrecting an Ansonia wall clock, which would have been a project for another day but there was a spring-driven time and strike steeple clock that was essentially intact so I decided to service it instead. The steeple clock movement was serviced and the case was refreshed. The results were quite satisfying.
It was a lucky find because the two mainsprings happened to be crafted from brass, which was utilized as a power source for clocks from roughly 1836 to 1840. Though rare the clock is not particularly valuable.
Elisha Manross steeple clock
While the Waterbury mantel clock was beyond repair and had to be discarded, there were still many parts from the Welch ogee clock that had the potential for future use. I removed the movement, pulleys, glass, hinges, iron nails, and door catch. The rosewood veneer was stripped from the case and set aside for a future project.
$20 for what some would consider trash
The salvaged veneer was used to create a new finial base for the Elisha Manross steeple clock pictured above and to cover the finial bases on the top crown of an 1850s Scottish tall case clock. In time the salvaged veneer was used for a number of other projects.
Scottish tall-case clock
Some clock parts are not difficult to source
There is actually a considerable assortment of new components available for antique and vintage clocks, which can be procured through numerous suppliers.
Examples are clock hands, pendulum bobs and leaders, feet, hinges, finials, bezels, hand nuts, case parts, and so on but by keeping old clock parts, clockmakers have access to replacement components that are no longer produced or readily available.
Trash or treasure?
As time passed, I revisited the Ansonia wall clock. The Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock shown above was in a disassembled state and the heavily corroded movement might have been deemed irreparable by some.
Ansonia time-only movement as found
I could have salvaged the veneer and wooden components and saved the movement for potential future use, but I chose to rise to the challenge and reassemble the clock instead.
The crucial brass dial bezel was absent from the clock, and while I initially believed I could find a replacement at a later time (I never could), I opted to reinsert the movement into the refurbished case.
Though clearly missing a few cosmetic parts the clock has proven to be a reliable runner to this day.
Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock
There is value in saving old parts
Retaining old clocks for spare parts not only helps to maintain the legacy of clockmaking but also serves as a dependable resource for those elusive components that can be challenging to come by.
Beyond everything else, the parts tell a story about the manufacturing process, the materials used, and the craftsmanship involved in creating a clock. By saving and reusing these parts, clockmakers help to ensure that the knowledge and skills of traditional clockmaking are not lost.
Saving old clock parts is not only practical but also beneficial for preserving history, maintaining authenticity, and ensuring the longevity of antique timepieces.
Well, it’s that time of the year. What is my best clock acquisition of the past year? You can decide for yourself and leave a comment but I will reveal my favorite at the end of the post.
As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks and every year I have managed to find a winner or two. 2022 was no exception.
In the early days of collecting, time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus with the goal of taking them apart and making them work, an important part of my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, clocks that have a special provenance, and growing my collection of Canadian-made clocks.
My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions may go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook/xxx auction house?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because it is a fair price but there are times when a little wheeling and dealing takes place prior to the sale.
In no particular order, here are my finds for 2022.
Fusee gallery clock
Gallery or dial clock, unknown maker
The clock is also called a dial clock in England which is where it was made. There are no markings anywhere on the clock save an obscure trademark that I have been unable to identify. It is a time-only fusee clock with a 12-inch dial, a very common size. It might have had a chain drive at the beginning of its life but it now has a cable. I have not serviced this clock because I don’t know enough about fusee movements, particularly the method of preloading the powerful mainspring.
E N Welch marine clock
Marine clock by E N Welch
This 30-hour spring wound clock with a hairspring lever escapement simply tells the time. It was made in the 1870s and perhaps earlier. It has been serviced, bushed, and cleaned, but my challenge at the moment is setting up the hairspping. It will work but not well.
Hamilton clock co ogee
Hamilton time and strike ogee clock, Canadian made
Acquired in the spring of 2022 this ogee clock was made in Hamilton, Ontario (Canada). The movement was serviced but the case challenged my veneering skills. It looks quite presentable now but was in poor condition when I bought it.
Jerome and Co. Rose Cottage clock
Rose Cottage clock by Jerome & Co.
Quite honestly I was going to throw the case out after having serviced the movement. It simply looks too far gone. However, I have accepted the challenge of bringing back this clock to its former glory. So far it is a work in progress.
Jauch calendar clock
Jauch 8-day calendar clock
From a distance, this clock looks good but a closer examination reveals a cheaply made time-only movement and an equally inexpensive pine case. It is clear that this German company was attempting to cash in on the antique American schoolhouse clock that was popular in the 1970s.
Wag on the wall
Wag on a wall
This has a well-made German movement, possibly by Mauthe or Hermle. It is a time-and-strike weight-driven clock and keeps very good time. Its only negative is that it has a cheap 1960s look about it but the only thing missing is a bottom middle finial.
Sessions Grand Assortment
Grand Assortment by Sessions
Perhaps the ugliest gingerbread clock ever made. The photo is the exact clock I worked on two years ago since the clock is apart at the moment and I have stripped down the case (a last resort).
Sessions Mission clock
Sessions Mission clock, 8-day time and strike
I like this clock not only because it is a 10$ thrift store find but it has very nicely styled mission clock and it works very well, keeping decent time for a spring-driven clock.
Empire gallery clock
English gallery clockwith 10-inch dial
I was hoping this was a fusee clock when I bid on it on an online auction in the spring of 2022 but it is a spring-driven 8-day clock with a fairly robust movement that was intended for commercial use, a store, an office environment perhaps.
Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock
Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock
I have a couple of Danel Pratt woodworks clock. Unfortunately, this one is missing its topper. Servicing woodworks movements takes special care and attention and I may tackle this clock in the spring.
Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock
Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock
I seem to gravitate toward 30-hour clocks. This is a time-and-strike clock and is in decent condition requiring only a few touchups.
My favorite?
Well, it has to be the time-only fusee which is probably why I subconsciously placed it first on the list. It well built industrial-strength clock that was designed to last for years. It looks great on any wall, is very quiet, and quite accurate which is what fusee movements are known for.
It is a $10 cottage clock my sister picked up in a yard sale several years ago and gave to me after I serviced one of her ogee clocks. There is a label on the inside that says it is made by Ansonia Brass Co. and I would date it to around the early 1880s.
It likely cost no more than 50 cents in its day, the most inexpensive of mechanical clocks but enough to provide for a family of modest needs.
Ansonia cottage clock
Not many survive to this day as they were tossed out when they stopped working. When they do survive they are often in poor condition such as this one. So, it is not surprising that time-only cottage clocks, in very good condition, are sometimes worth more and have greater collector value than larger American time and strike parlour or kitchen clocks.
A very simple time-only movement
So, why is this clock not worth much more than my sister paid for it? It’s had a hard life and has likely been altered in several ways. Original movement? It’s hard to say as there are no markings on it. Well worn? Yes! Pendulum, crutch, the mainspring, pallets; probably replacements. And why the notches on the rear of the access door?
Notches on either side of door
My wife and I love the sound of a ticking clock when we sleep at night. We both find it very soothing. And this one ticks just loud enough to be heard over our window air conditioner.
Unfortunately, the movement cannot quite run its intended 30 hours, and either the mainspring is too weak, or it needs a good cleaning. It is certainly not worth replacing a mainspring that would exceed the value of the clock so, a good cleaning is what it will get.
Time-only movements are the simplest to work on. There is only one train with three wheels plus the escape wheel. It is a matter of letting down the mainspring (a clamp is not necessary) releasing the 4 pins that hold the plates together which exposes the wheels and then taking the parts out.
Bent and worn main wheel teeth
Two issues immediately tell me that this movement does not have a lot of time left. The main wheel and the centre cannon teeth are slightly bent and it is only a matter of time when one or more break. There is not a lot of stress produced by the mainspring on the wheels of a 30-hour clock so it could take years, or perhaps even tomorrow. In any event, a repair of the wheel teeth is just not worth it.
The movement is not especially dirty but there is blackened oil in some of the pivot holes necessitating remediation. A clean in the ultrasonic followed by rinsing the parts, drying them, and then reassembly, oiling, and testing. That is it.
It is clean and I hope it will run 30 hours after the cleaning. Will it last? Well, for as long as the wheel teeth hold out. Let’s hope they do!
Some years ago I had this brainy idea that I would have a trio of time zone clocks above our main computer in the kitchen so, when one of our children called, all we had to do was glance at the wall to see what local time it was in their region.
Back then we had a daughter in Victoria, British Columbia, another in Calgary, Alberta, and a son in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Our daughter has since moved to Ottawa, Ontario.
It was a great idea but not perfect.
Trio of clocks representing 3 time zones
The New Haven time and strike clock (the middle one in the photo above) was not as small as I wanted but it was all I had at the time. The New Haven clock was eventually gifted and replaced by an Ansonia time-only which was also still too large.
Ansonia time-only clock
The search was on for a third 14-inch drop octagon time-only clock to complete the trio. It did not matter who the maker was. It took a while but as luck would have I saw one on an online auction in the spring of this year.
It is a Sessions time-only drop octagon and identical in dimensions to the two others.
The trouble was I was not going to pay a reserve auction bid of $100CDN (79US, 63GBP). As much as I wanted the clock the price was too high though some of you may disagree.
It appeared to be in very good condition judging from the auction photos and there was nothing much wrong with it except for incorrect minute and hour hands (it would have had longer and thicker closed spade hands).
Sessions time-only clock
We had already purchased 4 clocks at this particular online auction and elected to pick them up instead of having them shipped.
When my wife called to ensure someone was there when we arrived at the auction house she was told that all unsold clocks would be individually priced and sold without tax and buyer’s premium. Luckily the Sessions was one of few unsold clocks but the price was half the reserve. So, we bought it and now it graces our wall.
The newest(middle)in our trio of clocks, from left to right, Sessions, Sessions, Waterbury
Two Sessions and a Waterbury clock. They all look great!
This attractive little clock was bought at auction earlier this spring.
The walnut case is actually in good shape and the tablet looks not only original but is in decent condition as well. I expected a well-cared-for movement but to my surprise, it was in deplorable condition, a prime example of a clock that saw little servicing and was destined to fail.
Thanks to reader JC who identified the clock as the “Canada” found in Ansonia’s 1886 catalogue.
Auction photo
After installing 7 bushings and two pivots it now running as it should.
The case
It is missing a few top pieces but surprisingly the pieces came with the clock. They are in front of the Sessions gingerbread clock in the photo below. The glue let go and of course, it is a matter of gluing them back in place.
I blame it on rough handling on the part of the auction house otherwise why would the parts come with it.
Sessions and Ansonia clocks were bought as a lot.The case after a coating of shellac
Once the parts were re-glued it was an opportunity to clean the case and apply one coat of traditional shellac.
The dial looks too new, though it looks great and was no doubt replaced at some point in the clock’s life. The spade hands look correct for the clock.
The case was surprisingly well preserved but it is unfortunate that the movement was in such poor condition but now has a new lease on life.
Here is the final result. The movement and alarm mechanism have been reinstalled back into its case. After several days it is running well and keeping good time.
A handsome clock that is even better after a refresh and minor repairs.
I acquired a number of clocks at auction this past winter (2022). All were antiques and all were in poor to fair condition but each one had potential. The auction notes simply said the movements were untested which can mean just about anything from a failed, irreparable movement to something that might have been serviced recently.
One of the four from the auction is an attractive clock with nice clean lines and from the look of the case, which is in decent shape, I would have expected a well-cared-for movement which turned out not to be the case when I removed it.
Those with a keen eye will notice something missing on the case – the topper or crown, but no worries, I have all the pieces, it is just a matter of gluing them back on.
Auction photo
I located a clock exactly like it online with a description that was no help at all other than the fact that it was made by the Ansonia Clock Co. However, the design of the base is identical to the “Alaska” found in the 1886 Ansonia catalog so, I would estimate the clock was made around that time, give or take a year or two.
Beyond a well-worn movement is that it has a 30-hour run time. A clock with a 30-hour movement is a tough sell based on my experiences these past 10 years. The alarm feature might attract some buyers or others might be simply looking for a decorative piece.
The movement
The one-day or 30-hour movement with alarm is made by the Ansonia Clock Co. The date June 13, 1882, is stamped on the front plate and refers to a patent date. Digging a little deeper I found Letters Patent No. 259,505 by W.D. Davies for a striking mechanism for clocks, registered in Brooklyn, New York January 31, 1882. Naturally, the clock could not have been made before that date.
Davies patent
The patent has a unique lifting lever, called a “turn back” (fig 4) that allows the hands to be turned back past the hours eliminating a second spindle that would otherwise be used by other manufacturers to allow the hands to be turned back.
The movement
It is a run-of-the-mill 30-hour movement. It is as small as one would expect for the run time. It has been worked on in the past as there are plenty of punch marks around the pivot holes, more so on the time side than the strike side which I will explain later.
I have spring retention clamps for all sizes of mainsprings but none that would fit this movement exactly. My smallest would not fit because there is a steel post in the way on the strike side but wire works just as well though I was able to get a clamp around the mainspring on the time side.
Strike side wheels, a wire holds the mainspring
As it is a 30-hour movement the mainsprings are not as powerful as one would find in an 8-day clock although I always use care when working with mainsprings and wear thick work gloves.
Every pivot on the strike side looked like the one below. Dirty yes, but very little wear.
Strike side pivot before polishing
The time side was an entirely different matter.
Every pivot was in very poor condition, the worst is shown below.
The escape wheel pivot is too thin to be salvageable
The worst pivots were both ends of the escape wheel and the third wheel. I was able to grind down most of the pivots, including the 3rd wheel since there was enough usable steel to carry the load through the train. Not so for the escape wheel.
New escape wheel pivot,front plate
It required re-pivoting.
The third wheel pivot on the time side,this one is salvageable
A sizable portion of the brass was chewed away on the escape wheel bushing, backplate. As wear accelerates over time, the clock would eventually “grind” to a halt.
Escape wheel pivot hole backplate
As for the difference in wear on both sides, there are two possible reasons. Some folks do not like the sound of a striking clock in a home. The clock will still run with only the time side wound but the result is disproportionate wear. The second is that the patented design does not allow room for error during setup and perhaps it was too frustrating getting the strike side to run reliably.
The new pivot
Using a mini lathe I began with a centering bit and then with high-speed bits drilled holes in both ends of the escape wheel to a sufficient depth to anchor the pivot wire. I have a good supply of pivot wire and it was a matter of selecting the correct size, which in this case is 1.35mm wire.
The shot above shows the new escape wheel pivot supported in place and it will remain on the lathe in this position until the Permatex Threadlocker Red has cured (24 hours).
Bushing the escape wheel bridge
With that kind of wear, I am surprised the clock ran as well as it did although American clocks will typically continue to run despite being well worn, wear that would certainly stop a German or French clock.
Assembly and testing
The strike side wheels are left out for testing (beat timer is attached)
Normally I would assemble the entire movement after completing the bushing work but since I installed two brand new pivots I realized that I would have to make minor escape wheel/pallet adjustments and having fewer wheels to deal with makes it less frustrating taking it apart again. A new suspension spring and leader also replaced the original one.
After 30 hours the movement continues to run strongly. I tested the movement a day or two more before installing the remaining wheels and levers.
I am an avid collector of antique and vintage clocks which means I cruise the online auction sites regularly, about once or twice a week. This spring I checked out offerings from a local online auction site that deals with estate items, placed bids on 4 clocks (actually 5 since one lot had two clocks). The one I did not win was a 6 column Sessions mantel clock but no real loss there.
I won the bids on four clocks. CDN110 was the total though with buyers’ premium and taxes the price jumped to CDN147, still not bad for a small collection of antique clocks.
I do not have these clocks as of this writing since they are sitting at the auction house but I think can make a preliminary judgment based on what I see in the auction photos.
Although I am normally not in the business of selling clocks I will sell the odd one to keep my collection manageable. The plan is to fix these clocks and sell them to offset clock equipment purchases most notably an Adams Brown Timetrax 185, an electric clock timer, an amplifier that measures the rate of mechanical clocks by sensing escapement action and mechanical sounds of the escapement which I recently purchased. Here they are.
Unknown cottage clock
In no particular order of importance let’s start with an octagon cottage clock from the 1870s or 80s. It is a 30-hour clock judging from the placement of the winding points.
With pendulum and key
From the style of the pendulum bob and the case itself, I would say an E. Ingraham & Co. time and strike cottage clock. Some would have come with an alarm. This one does not.
Side view
It is in fair shape. The dial appears to have serious losses and there are nicks and scratches over a good portion of the case from what I see in the photos. I wonder if the tablet is a replacement and the original reverse painted?
It is difficult to tell with the harsh auction light but the case might be made of rosewood.
Decorative pendulum
It will be a good candidate for a mild refresh and should look very nice when completed.
Sessions Grand Assortment #3
Next is a Sessions Grand Assortment #3. I have worked on one in the past. There are three models in the Grand Assortment series and despite the fact that it is a lowly gingerbread clock and thousands of similarly styled clocks were sold by every major American clock manufacturer, this model is surprisingly collectible.
It is an 8-day clock with a steam-pressed oak case. The case looks very “aligorated” a term applied to a shellac finish that has coagulated as a result of being stored in a hot, humid environment such as an attic or a garage.
The dial is in poor condition
The tablet looks good but the dial is very degraded. This is a paper-on-metal dial and when the metal below the paper rusts the stain bleeds through to the front. This is called “foxing”. These stains are very difficult to remove and cost-prohibitive for most clocks. This is a cheap clock and a dial replacement is the only option and as such, I am not sure what to do about it.
A note is attached to the key and it says 1903. It is doubtful it was actually made in that year and I am sure the previous owner went by the year Sessions Clock Co. acquired clock-maker E.N. Welch Co. though the clock is certainly from around that period.
With a note from the previous owner
Reconditioning the case might be a challenge. Is it a candidate for stripping down to the bare wood? I suspect it is but we’ll see. I also see a small crack just above the top of the dial, so it might have been broken off at one point and re-glued.
I am not sure about the pendulum bob which does not look quite right for this clock. More research should provide me with the answer.
E Ingraham Ocean and Ansonia kitchen/parlour clock
Next is a two-for-one deal.
A duo of clocks
The one on the left is an E. Ingraham steam-pressed 8-day gingerbread possibly from the Ocean series. Unfortunately, it is missing its decorative tablet and that will certainly affect its resale value.
The pendulum looks right for the clock and the case itself looks to be in decent shape but as I said, it is very unfortunate that the tablet is missing.
Pieces of a clock
The pieces at the foot of the gingerbread clock belong to the clock on the right. Usually, when I see pieces like this it tells me that it was handled roughly by the auction house.
What I like about this clock is its timeless design, almost Art Deco but made long before the Art Deco period.
So who is the maker of the clock on the right?
Unknown parlour clock
The auction description simply says, “unknown clock”. I believe it is an Ansonia 30-hour (position of the winding arbours) kitchen clock in Walnut from about the early 1880s. The tablet is bright and vivid, not a design I have seen before but likely original. Attaching the top pieces should be a fairly simple process and thorough cleaning of the clock case clock and movement should make it an ideal candidate for resale.
Of the four, two are 30-hour clocks. I have found that 30-hour clocks are a tough sell. Most casual collectors are looking for an 8-day clock since 1-day clocks are a hassle to wind but I think I can make both presentable enough to attract some buyers.
The auction notes do not say whether any of these are in working order. They are all “untested” which is typical auction-speak for “they may or may not work – the risk is yours!”.
American clocks are very tough and often work well despite being very worn. I suspect with a little encouragement I can get all of these clocks working again.
Now, to pick them up from the auction house.
Check for upcoming articles on each of these clocks.
While I have over 85 clocks in my collection twelve are 30-hour or one-day clocks. One of the twelve is a relatively modern clock.
The history of mass-produced clocks in America began in the 1820s and 1830s with 30-hour clocks that had woodworks movements. While the clock business was booming with many companies selling clocks to the masses, an economic recession in the late 1830s brought clock production to a halt.
Pioneer clockmaker Chauncey Jerome, who was in the clock business at the time, considered his “business troubles and disappointments” and he along with his brother Noble formulated the idea that movements could be made from brass. Noble Jerome received patent number 1200 for his brass clock movement, issued June 27, 1839. Woodworks movements began to be phased out and replaced by brass movements which were made in the hundreds of thousands. 30-hour brass movements were made well into the 1860s and were eventually replaced by the 8-day brass movement.
Because 30-hour clocks were produced in the thousands many examples have survived to this day. Most clock aficionados today have at least one ogee clock in their collection.
Of the 12 in my collection 5 are running continuously. Yes, winding a clock everyday is a hassle but we often forget that at one time the thirty hour clock in the form of the bedside alarm clock was a fixture in every home but for this post I am excluding the dozen alarm clocks in my collection.
Half are weight driven, so let’s begin with those.
Sperry and Shaw
Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock
This, a four-column shelf clock designed in the “New York” style was made between 1841 and 1851. Sperry and Shaw were assemblers and distributors and sourced parts from various producers. The movements and cases could have been made by Silas Hoadley or Chauncey Jerome or both.
I bought the clock from student in Halifax, Nova Scotia in the fall of 2018 and he would not budge on the price. My only question to him prior to making the deal was whether or not the clock had the original wafer weights which would be almost impossible to source if missing.
Daniel Pratt and Son
This is the only clock I have with a woodworks movement. Daniel Pratt worked with others but eventually went out on this own in the 1830s. I would date this clock to around 1837. This clock was won at an estate auction for the price of $30 during a time when clock prices were hitting rock bottom. The clock has a wood dial and a mirrored lower tablet (may or may not be original) and the case is in very good condition for its age.
Daniel Pratt and Sons
Chauncey Jerome
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock
This clock is from around 1855, made just before Chauncey Jerome’s company went into bankruptcy. This was also bought at auction a few years ago. It came with an extra mirrored lower tablet and a “spare” dial. I am not sure if either the mirrored tablet or the JC Brown picture are original. The veneer, however, is in perfect condition.
George H. Clark
George H Clark 30 hour Ogee shelf clock
This is an ogee from around 1857. There is no makers mark on the works but it is a Waterbury type 2.411 movement. The case is well-preserved and in excellent condition, obviously well-cared for by a previous owner. The beehive tablet looks to be original.
Waterbury Clock Co.
This an ogee style clock from 1865. It was bought at an antique store in Halifax. There was no price on the clock. I asked the owner what he would sell it for. He said, name a price, I said $40 and he said, sold! Evidently it been in his shop for a while. It is the first clock on which I learned how to replace very worn trundles.
Cuckoo clock
Dave’s cuckoo clock
This is a 30-hour cuckoo clock with a Regula movement, made about 1976. A cheap German made mass-produced “tourist” clock that was given to me by a relation. It still works but it is on its 3rd movement.
And now for the spring driven clocks.
Ansonia Cottage clock
This cottage clock is from about 1895. This another clock that was given to me. These were probably dollar clocks at the time. They had cheap movements but were solid and reliable. Surprisingly, these command good prices on the auction sites since so few remain.
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Canada Clock Company
The Hamilton Cottage Extra is from about 1880. These are now very difficult to find since so few have survived. It is Canadian made and collectors will happily pay hundreds of dollars for one. It has a very cheap case made of softwood with no veneers. The acid etched lower tablet is quite unique. It was bought in a local junk store for $40. I could not believe my find.
Hamilton Cottage Extra
Elisha Manross
Elisha Manross gothic steeple
The Manross is a thirty hour time and strike and called a steeple clock. One interesting feature is that the Rosewood veneer is in a vertical orientation on the side columns unlike most that have a horizontal orientation. It is also the only clock in my collection that has brass mainsprings which were phased out in the early 1840s making the clock historically significant. Needless to say that in order to preserve the mainsprings I run this clock infrequently.
Hamilton Clock Company
The style is known as gothic steeple. The clock is from about 1876 and features a religious expression on the acid etched lower tablet, “Cling to the Cross”. There are some veneer losses but the clock is in decent shape. The steeple tips never seem to survive on these clocks.
Hamilton Clock Co. 30 hour time and strike
New Haven
This is a spring driven time and strike ogee from around 1875. Unfortunately the veneer has been stripped from the case and the softwood re-stained but it is an attractive little clock nonetheless. The dial is a replacement and the lower tablet has some losses.
Ogee New Haven clock
New Haven
This a called a Sharp Gothic according to the label. It is an American-made clock sold by a jeweler by the name of Thomas B. Spike in Halifax, Nova Scotia (Canada) in the 1880s. The lower tablet features a seaside Parthenon scene which might suggest it was one of many produced for foreign markets. There are some veneer losses but the clock is in running order and keeps reasonably good time. It has replacement mainsprings because it will run for 3 days on a wind. Not bad for a 30-hour clock!
New haven Gothic Steeple clock
I hope you enjoyed this little tour of a part of my collection of 30-hour or one-day clocks and please leave a comment. As for expanding my collection of one-day clocks I am not sure that I would continue acquiring them unless I came across something quite unique or if one were given to me.
One more shot is what it deserves. It had been running fairly well since I serviced it three years ago it but in the last few weeks it has decided to run for about 5 minutes and stop and I think I know the reason why.
Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock
This Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock was manufactured in the early 1880s by what was then known as the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company.
The brass dial bezel is the only significant part missing. Minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door were easily sourced. I made the drop access door later on.
Here is an article I wrote in 2018 wherein I assess the case and movement for the first time. At the time I was challenged by the prospect of putting a rusty old movement back in running condition and giving it a new life.
It was in poor condition when I bought since it literally came out of a barn and it is just pure luck that it runs at all.
The symptoms? If wound halfway it would run 3-4 days and stop. If wound tight it would not run at all because surface rust and other contaminants caused the coils to bind together. This is very typical of old clocks that have not been running for years. A movement that is “overwound” is a myth. It is the combination of old oil, rust and dirt that seizes the mainspring.
Rusty mainsprings
For some clockmakers any rust on a mainspring means that is it tossed it out because the mainspring is inherently weaker. This particular mainspring has surface rust on the outer two coils and rust on the edges of the spring. Otherwise, it has no cracks or splits and has plenty of power.
Yes, it was seized
Generally, to remove rust, repairers often apply a liquid gel, black tea, or even use electrolytic rust removal.
If I were in the business of clock repair, I would certainly replace the mainspring and pass the cost on to the customer. However, the original mainspring is part of the history of the clock and I don’t think the amount of rust is enough to prevent me from reusing as long as it is cleaned properly. As far as I am concerned, replacing a mainspring is the last resort.
Servicing yet again
Now that I have it apart why not throw the parts into the ultrasonic for a good cleaning. After everything was dry I inspected the parts, polished the pivots, and pegged the pivot holes.
I released the mainspring but this is how it came out of the case
I gave special attention to the mainspring. After inspecting it (yet again) I used a Brillo pad, steel wool and a microfiber cloth to eliminate the roughness as much as possible.
Ansonia mainspring cleaned up and ready for installation
Following the cleaning I applied a thin film of Keystone mainspring oil. I then reassembled the movement and oiled it prior to placing it on the test stand.
Ansonia movement on the test stand
While on the stand I gave the mainspring a few turns, put the movement in beat and it ran well for a couple of days which is what I expected.
On day 4, it was time for the ultimate test, to wind it fully till it winds no further. I was hoping for a good result and it ran the full 8-day cycle. The mainspring just might be “clean” enough that it will now run without stopping.
I will monitor the results of this little experiment for a while longer but for now things very good.
I was attracted to the style of this clock but disappointed when I learned that it was a marriage of a Waterbury case with a Seth Thomas movement. Briefly, a marriage is when parts from two different makers come together.
Buying a clock from a flea market, antique mall, a shop or what have you is always a gamble. On this particular clock there is no trademark or name on the dial or a label in the back of the case that told me who the maker was. I made an assumption and it was an impulse buy.
Glass and bezel are from a later clock
While at the antique store I opened the back of the case to confirm that the clock had a movement and it was complete with pendulum bob and coiled gong and to me everything appeared correct until I brought it home. My first thought was an Ansonia movement when I looked at it under the dim light of the store.
Seth Thomas and other makers made similar cabinet style cases but this is the Wren by the Waterbury Clock Company. Being a marriage, the clock is worth much less to those particular about such matters. No matter, it looks attractive.
I can imagine a past owner’s conversation with the repair guy, I don’t care what you do, just make it work! And the repair guy responds by removing the very worn Waterbury movement and replacing it with a Seth Thomas. Easy peasy!
One of the current seller’s stickers on the case said it was a non-working clock but with minor adjustments, such as moving the pallets closer to the escape wheel and releasing the time-side mainspring, I had it running in no time. There is not much wrong with the movement and a good cleaning plus a bushing or two should put things right.
So, what did I buy?
As I said, I like the case and it has a decent movement but when a clock is a marriage one can expect some questionable repairs and interesting changes as one takes things apart.
I am not absolutely certain the dial pan came with the case or was added later but the glass and bezel are certainly from a mid-century mantel clock. It is so ugly it will be tossed into the spare parts drawer. I will keep the dial pan but a piecrust bezel with flat glass is more appropriate for the period.
Piecrust dial on a 6-column mantel clock
Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement
I removed the dial and discovered a number of extra screw holes here and there, varying lengths of screws, some screw holes filled with pieces of wood, even a couple of Robertson screws (not invented until after the First War) and so on. Obviously the replacement movement required new holes and why not drill a few extra holes for good measure!
The hole on the dial just above the 12 is larger than it should be. It was either enlarged to accommodate the regulating arbour or it’s a new hole altogether.
On a positive note both the case and the movement are from a similar period.
Disassembling the movement
But this post is about servicing the movement.
I am impressed with the engineering of this Seth Thomas movement. It is robust and well-designed though it has an interesting, overly complicated, speed regulating feature.
From my research I found that the hip style movement is the type 44 which was used for a 12 year period beginning in 1890. In 1903 it was presumably replaced with the type 89 movement, simpler to manufacture, fewer parts and more reliable, and appeared in many thousands of ST mantel clocks afterwards. It has a sickle shaped brass piece between the plates so that the clock can be turned backwards repeatedly at the hour to sync the strike with the hands. It is technically called a set-back counter weight.
Brass piece indicated by arrow
Regulating arbour with worm gear on one end
There were variations of this movement, front winding movements as opposed to rear winding, with and without the worm gear speed regulator and some with stop works. This movement does not have Geneva stops.
It took me more time than usual to pry open the plates because I was slowed down by the intricacy of regulating mechanism. Part of the mechanism consists of a long arbour that passes from the front plate to the back plate. At one end is a worm gear and on the other is the regulating end. It is secured to the outside of the front plate by means of a spring with a pin through the arbour. To release the arbour, the pin must be pulled and the spring releases.
Well, actually the spring flew across the room. No problem, I’m used to crawling on the floor looking for clock parts.
I have worked on a lot of American time and strike movements but this type of regulating mechanism is a first for me. In fact, the set-back counter weight is also a first for me.
Analysis of the movement
The movement has had 12 bushings installed, 5 on the front plate and 7 on the back. The work is well done but I don’t like the arrows scratched into the plate indicating where each bushing would be installed. I use a Sharpie pen and after I have completed the bushing work I wipe the marks off with alcohol. There is no need to mar the plates.
Arrow indicating scratch mark below bushing
After looking over the movement carefully I can see there is enough wear in some bushings that they must be replaced, both second wheels, front plate, the governor, both front and back and the escape wheel bridge bushing which for some reason has punch marks around it, the only unsightly repair.
Escape wheel and bridge
The mainsprings look to be in good shape and still bears the original ST trademarks. No worn gear teeth and the pivots, plus the lantern pinions are all in great shape.
All in all, not bad for a movement that was last serviced quite a number of years ago.
Strike side of ST movement
The pivots were polished and next is the bushing work. Two were interesting to say the least.
The count count wheel and the strike pin wheel are side by side. A bushing was required for the pin wheel but I could not access it from inside the plate. This is one of those few times when drilling from the outside is the only way however, I was able to push the bushing home from the inside plate. It is one of those situation where you have to stand back, analysis the problem and consider a strategy. It worked.
The second was the escape wheel bridge. To stabilize the bridge a 5-step block jig comes in handy. Otherwise, it is very difficult to keep the bridge steady and drill a straight hole.
% level job block used for an escape wheel bridge
The drilling went fine until the last 3.47 mm cutter. When I began to drill out the hole the old bushing came out. I knew right away that the new bushing would not have a tight fit. Evidently a past repairer had the same problem.
staking set
The block from a staking set is a useful tool. With it I was able to lay the plate down on it and punch the bushing from the inside to stabilize it.
Once together everything fell into place or so I thought. Unfortunately, I will have to take it apart again because I forgot the regulating worm gear which can only be installed with the plates separated. The movement will run perfectly fine without it, but it is part of the clock.
The antique clock and the dilemma of identity. Some may feel this is much ado about nothing but discussion on identity and antique clocks tends to prompt a lot of debate. Let me explain.
Let’s say you are looking for that particular antique clock and you think you have finally found it. The photos look great and the description hits all of the boxes on your list. Let’s assume you found it locally and are meeting the seller soon to close the deal. You arrive, they present the clock and you notice things that are not quite right with the clock. The clock you thought was an authentic antique has been changed over the years and the seller may or may not even be aware of the changes. If the clock has been changed is it an antique in the truest sense of the word. You walk away feeling that too much has been done to the clock and continue your search.
A clock collector might have the opinion that if too much is done to restore a clock it is not fundamentally the same and cannot be considered original even though the new parts were made from the same materials using similar methods when the clock was first made. An antique shopper who knows little about clocks might not be bothered by the changes if the clock “looks” original.
Another might have the opinion that changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original” and therefore more desirable. But has the clock changed its identity during the change process and is it less original if it has undergone restoration?
Here are some examples.
From This.
Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock that some would have thrown out
To this.
Not perfect but saved from the trash heap
From this.
Junghans Crispi wall clock in a parts box
To this.
Junghans Crispi wall clock resurrected from the grave
If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock? It follows that if you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity? This is an example of a thought argument that raises the question of whether an object that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object.
I was working on a clock recently that was said by its owner to be an antique. At first glance, it looked original. The case was a little tired, the movement looked like it was cared for or at least properly serviced at some point in its life. As I began to examine it more closely I discovered several anomalies. Although the movement was the “correct” maker as the case, the movement was taken from a kitchen clock and slightly modified to fit the case. Is this clock still an antique or has it strayed too far away from the definition of an antique because it is a “marriage”
People pay for originality. For my money, I prefer a well-cared-for clock in original condition. I will take a second look if it has been tastefully restored or repaired and know that it is better than having it trashed or perhaps parted out. However, I would not expect to pay as much for a “changed” clock”
If a clock is overly restored how should it be valued? I am not against conservation or restoration but if a clock was two steps away from a garbage can is it less valuable if restored?
There are no clear answers. There will always be buyers who demand originality and those who overlook certain changes. Is this much ado about nothing?
Over the summer of 2020, I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.
Ansonia Syria
It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.
This is Part II of a two-part series. My general comments and first impressions are found in Part I which you can find here.
It is an attractive clock in relatively good shape for its age. From my research, I have determined that it was made sometime in the early to mid-1890s.
Time and strike movement with an 1882 patent date
In this post, I will continue with disassembly, cleaning, general comments about the condition of the movement, and any potential trouble spots.
Dis-assembly and servicing the movement
The movement is held in the case by 4 screws. Once out of the case the first order of business is to restrain the mainsprings with mainspring C-clamps before separating the plates. Safety is paramount; those springs are powerful.
Although C-clamps are the round type in the following photo I prefer flat clamps for most American movements. Either will do but flat clamps are perfect for tight spaces.
Olie Baker spring winder
After disassembly, my Olie Baker spring winder was put into action to unwind the spring, inspect it for cracks, surface rust, or any other issues.
Each mainspring is stretched out and cleaned with a Scotchbight pad and WD-40. It is carefully wiped down leaving no trace of the WD-40 and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner, you must work quickly to dry and clean the mainspring. Rust is insidious and will creep in quickly.
The mainsprings looked very good and once cleaned and carefully inspected I have no hesitation reusing them.
A mainspring is cleaned, oiled and returned to its arbour
I applied a drop of Keystone mainspring oil on each of the coils, wound the spring several times to spread the oil. Once the C-clamp is re-applied and hooked on to the arbour, the excess oil is wiped away. The clicks are in good shape, sometimes a weakness in American movements. At this point, there is nothing more to be done to the mainsprings until the movement is assembled, so, let’s put them aside.
I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last
Everything is ready for the next step
I inspected each of the wheels and pivots for wear and found everything including the lantern pinions to be in generally very good condition with one exception. There is minor wear on the flywheel lantern pinions but not enough to warrant replacement at this point.
I usually put the time and strike gears and pretty much everything else in one or two containers. When you have done many movements you learn to quickly identify the location of each component. I can take out any wheel or lever, for example, and identify its specific location. However, if you are just starting out or have not built up enough confidence I highly recommend separating the two sides. In the early days of clock servicing, that is exactly what I did.
I was curious to find that a past repairer scratched “S” (for strike) and “T” (for time) on each one of the wheels according to their location. I understand why but esthetically it does not look good. However, marking the mainspring arbours came in handy. I make it a point to return each mainspring on the arbour they came from. In most cases, the mainsprings are the same length and thickness but every now and then I come across two different sizes. Better to be safe than sorry. That aside the movement appears to be in good condition.
A bushing is marked for replacement
Once the parts are cleaned and dried and the pivot holes are pegged it is on to the next step, pivot polishing. I use a #11 Emory board to polish pivots. I secure each of the wheels in a 3-jaw chuck on my Taig metal lathe and move the Emory boards in an up and down motion to polish the pivots.
Taig lathe at its slowest speed setting
Following the polishing, it is on to any bushing work that may be needed. In the case of this movement, two bushings were needed, the second wheel, front plate and the fourth wheel backplate. Here, a new Bergeon brass bushing is pushed into the bottom plate.
New Bergeon bushing. Notice the fixed lifting lever, lower left
Movement Re-assembly
And now for re-assembly and testing.
Since the lifting lever is attached to the bottom plate and is otherwise immoveable the count lever is the only component that has to be put in its correct location.
I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last.
All is ready for the top plate
Once the time side wheels and the hour gear are in place I attach the third screw and then work the wheels and levers into place on the strike side. Once everything is in place I tighten all the screws. A pivot locator is your best friend when re-assembling any movement.
Pivot locator
On the first attempt, I was not able to synch the strike side locking wheel (sometimes you get lucky the first time) but I mounted the movement on the test stand overnight to check out the time side and the next day it was running as expected. The locking wheel pin needs to be adjusted but that can wait till tomorrow.
One issue raised its head after re-assembly. The strike side gears were not moving at all. I tested each gear and found the flywheel (governor) was sluggish and had no end shake. It freed up if the nut nearest the flywheel was loose enough. The reason. A past repairer installed a bushing that was too tall for the plate. End shake allows freedom of the movement when the plates are screwed tightly down. I filed down the protruding bushing on the inside of the plate and the strike side then ran smoothly.
On the test stand
Next day
Now to open up the top part of the strike side to reposition the locking wheel. Safety first. I restrain the mainsprings just in case the whole thing explodes. I re-positioned the stop pin so that it is resting on the stop lever and presto, everything is working as it should.
I would like to refresh the case but the owner left strict instructions to leave it as-is.
Over the summer I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.
”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”
It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.
Ansonia Syria mantel clock
It was in a well-packed box and in it was a note. The note said, ”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”.
Packaged with care
I opened the box, attached the pendulum, gave both arbours several turns, and started the clock. The fact that it is in running order and striking correctly is certainly a positive sign and testament to the fact that it was serviced in the past. Does it need a simple cleaning and regulating or is something else going on?
Apart from a couple of nicks and scratches, the case looks good. I asked the owner if she would like the case reconditioned and she said she prefers it the way it is. Fair enough.
The Ansonia Syria is an attractive mantel clock and according to the label affixed to the inside of the back access door, it is an 1878 Paris Exposition winner. This is helpful because it allows the clock to be dated. On the movement, there is a patent date of June 18, 1882. It is probably safe to say that it was made within a few years of the 1882 date which puts it in the late -1880s to 1890s. Tran Duy Ly in his book on Ansonia clocks (page 245) lists the year of manufacture as 1894.
The Ansonia Clock Company competed with many popular clock companies of the time; Waterbury, Gilbert, Seth Thomas, E. N. Welch, and New Haven to name a few.
Let’s look into this clock a little further. A few interesting anomalies struck me as I examined the clock case and the movement.
Just above the 12, there is a brass insert that looks like the head of a large pin. It is there to conceal a hole. Although difficult to see in the photo, the letters “S” and “F” appear at either side of the pin. The pin hides the hole for the regulator. Clocks with this type of regulator come with two-sided keys and the smaller end is used to insert into the hole and regulate the clock to slow it down or speed it up. The dial pan is also held in place by common nails.
This movement in this case does not have a regulator mechanism and the mechanism was not removed from the movement. This is a period-correct Ansonia replacement movement that originally came out of a kitchen clock with an alarm. The alarm would have been attached to an activating lever which has been cut off on this movement (see the centre of below shot).
The base of the alarm actuatorStandoffs on the back of the movement
In the above photo, you can see standoffs on the rear plate and clearly standoffs on the front plate. The front standoffs are fashioned from a brass ribbon, bent, drilled out, and cut to fit. The clock is, what we term in the clock business, a marriage. It is always nice to see that it has a movement from the same manufacturer and from the same period as the clock case but a marriage certainly reduces its desirability and makes it difficult to classify it as an antique.
Next, the suspension spring post has been re-soldered, loose perhaps.
And lastly, the hour hand is a replacement. The original hour hand would have been a trident style.
That having been said, the clock has great sentimental value for the owner, and the fact that it is a marriage and has undergone changes over the years may not be a factor.
The movement has been worked on in the past. There are 16 replacement bushings. The bushing work looks professional and after a first look perhaps 2 or 3 require replacement though none on the strike side. Otherwise, the movement was dirty and had thick black-greenish oil residue on several pivots. Not surprising in an antique clock but indicative of some level of wear. The mainsprings were dripping with brown oil, but I have seen a lot worse.
The next step is to service the movement. Part 2, in four days’ time will detail disassembly, bushing work, and general cleaning.
Some time ago I wrote an article on an interesting acquisition, an Ansonia Extra Drop, a true barn find.
This Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock was manufactured in the early 1880s by what was then known as the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company.
It was in pretty rough shape when I bought it and the only significant part missing is the brass dial bezel and a number of minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door (which I made later on).
I was challenged by the whole prospect of putting the many pieces back together and giving what most would consider a throw-away movement, a second chance.
A sad-looking and seized time-only movement
Here is the movement when I found it. What a sight! I thought if I stripped away all the rust and dirt something of value would be salvageable. How many of you would simply toss it out?
After disassembly, scrubbing, cleaning, and one new escape wheel bushing here is the final result.
Cleaned and serviced time only movement
First servicing
The fact that the spring was unwound on the movement when I received it tells me two things. One, the chance that it is “set” is reduced and secondly, having an open coil means more surface rust on the outer part of the spring.
I did my best to remove most of the rust on the mainspring and it went back in the movement. A short while later I discovered that the clock would only run if I wound it about halfway. Otherwise, if wound tight it would not run at all. The surface rust was evidently causing it to stop.
Some clockmakers who after observing any rust on a mainspring would immediately toss it out and argue that the spring is weaker because of the presence of surface rust. In this case, the mainspring is unsightly but has no cracks and has plenty of power.
Other repairers apply a liquid or gel, black tea, or even use electrolytic rust removal to extricate the rust. I know I risk igniting a debate about mainspring replacement and if I were in the business of clock repair, I would certainly toss out the mainspring and pass the cost on to the customer. However, I am hesitant to spend money on a new mainspring for what is essentially a $5.00 barn-find clock and my challenge was to spend as little money as possible on this clock.
During the initial servicing, I managed to get rid of most of the mainspring rust.
Second servicing
Still some problems. After several months I took it apart again, ran the parts through my new ultrasonic cleaner which I did not have at the time of the first servicing. I placed the mainspring in as well. Scotch Brite abrasive pad and WD40 combined are excellent for cleaning a mainspring and I was able to effectively smooth out the rough and rusty outer sections of the mainspring. Again, I checked for cracks and suspicious imperfections and found none. After rubbing the abrasive pad over the mainspring several times I gave it a healthy coating of Keystone mainspring oil. A smoother, rust-free mainspring should function a lot better.
Rather than mount the movement on the test stand, I installed it back into its case but left the dial off so I could monitor it more closely. It runs very well and has run several full 8-day cycles.
Ansonia movement in its case
I realize that I have pushed the limit of this mainspring and the next step is a replacement but we’ll see what happens after the testing period.
Weeks later
The movement continues to run well and now it is time to put everything back together.
Older readers growing up in the rural areas of Canada and American have fond memories of the one-room schoolhouse clock located in the front or rear of the classroom. Just how did the schoolhouse clock get its name?
As the teacher instructed the students to work quietly on their own students would look up furtively at the clock anticipating the next recess. Students learned about time, how it regimented the day, how it seemed to move slowly and yet so quickly. Can you imagine the privileged child selected to wind the clock once per week.
Killarney, Ireland pub. The drop fusee wall clock is to the right
With a swinging pendulum visible from a distance, the clock can easily be seen running. The open-door bottom access sash allowed for restarting and adjusting the rate. The vast majority were American clocks though Canada produced its fair share of schoolhouse clocks. Time-only movements were very popular because they had fewer moving parts, noiseless except for the ticking sound, were simpler to maintain and would run well for years even if very worn.
The schoolhouse clock came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings. If a particular style was ordered by a school authority manufacturers might have informally described them as clocks for schools or “school clocks”. In any event, the term, “schoolhouse clock” has become part of the lexicon of the clock collector.
Today, the distinctive schoolhouse clock is known as a drop octagon by clock collectors.
Most schoolhouse clocks are 8-day running, constructed of oak, have a brass dial bezel, bottom glazed access sash, 9 or 12-inch dial with the majority being time-only. A time-only clock provides less distraction in the classroom environment than those clocks making a striking sound.
None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them. They are either described as a “drop octagon” or have a specific model name
In some clock circles it is said that schoolhouse clocks are a derivative of the English drop dial fusee clock such as the one seen in an Irish pub in Killarney (above photo).
None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them. They are either described as a “drop octagon” or have a specific model name.
Here are a few schoolhouse clocks from my collection. Enjoy!
Sessions Drop Octagon from a school in Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada)
Gilbert Admiral with 31-day calendar function, Colchester County, Nova Scotia
Ansonia schoolhouse clock, Berwick, Nova Scotia
German-made Jauch wall clock, 1970s era
“Special edition” clocks inspired by the classic schoolhouse wall clock are still sold today though you will find a quartz movement inside
Brandon II by Arthur Pequegnat, Great Village, Nova Scotia
Waterbury short drop wall clock, Halifax, Nova Scotia
A trio of clocks representing 3 time zones, From the left, a Waterbury, New Haven and Sessions
“Special edition” clocks inspired by the classic schoolhouse wall clock are still sold today though you will find a quartz movement inside.
The classroom was not only place for the schoolhouse clock. Many found their way into homes across Canada and the US. My grandparents had a Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock in their kitchen that I remember well as a young boy (the preview clock for this post).
Schoolhouse clocks evoke fond memories for the older generation today and fortunately many have been preserved for generations to come.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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