Tag: Germany

1930 Kienzle Box Clock | A Heartfelt Gift and Memorable Encounter

Occasionally I have clocks gifted to me as in the case of this lovely Art Deco-style German round-top wall clock made by Kienzle. The gift was greatly appreciated, although there was a small condition attached, which I will explain later.

Kienzle box clock in classic oak

There are times when people consider gifting me a clock but hesitate because of the high shipping expenses. When I tell them I’m willing to accept the clock, they often balk upon discovering how much it would cost to send it to me. Consequently, I have missed out on some interesting clocks due to shipping constraints.

Earlier this year, DN from central Canada was researching his grandfather’s vintage clock online and found a similar one, which led him to my blog. We exchanged emails about the history and condition of his grandfather’s clock and he asked about its resale potential. Based on the current market, I provided him with an estimated value.

I suggested several methods for selling the clock and offered to consider purchasing it myself if he could not find a buyer. Unaware that I would hear from DN again, it was four months later when he reached out and offered to gift me the clock, confident it would be cherished by a collector like myself. The condition was that I make a donation to a charity.

A well-protected clock

While traveling to central Canada to spend the summer, I had the opportunity to meet DN. With military precision, we arranged to meet in a small village 1/2 hour from our summer cottage. The well-packaged clock went from one car to the next. Afterward, we talked on the roadside, discussing the clock and, of course, sharing our cottage experiences. I said my thanks and drove off.

I know more about this clock than almost anything in my collection thanks to DN and the well-preserved clock owned by his grandfather and carefully stored for approximately 25 years following his passing. DN‘s grandfather, an engineer, appreciated the intricacy of the German-made clock and kept all the documentation. Nothing is missing from the clock; all the parts are intact.

Raised relief applique

There is a “certificate of guarantee” from the Franco-American Supply Co. with a purchase date of May 18, 1930. The Franco-American Clock Co. became the Franco-American Supply Co. in 1918/1919. Their business eventually expanded to musical instruments, including gramophones. They operated as a distributor rather than a manufacturer, specializing in supplying clocks at a mid-level scale to retailers.

Franco-American Supply Co.

In addition, there is a factory control slip and instructions for the gong protector. There are two stand-offs (upper right, photo below), but I could not find the screw holes in the back of the case to accommodate them. Perhaps they were offered as optional at the time, otherwise, why were they kept? And of course, the original key.

It is rare to buy a clock with any documentation

Overall, it is in exceptional condition for a 96-year-old clock. I could not see any tell-tale signs that the movement had been worked on, and in its assembled state, I did not observe any appreciable wear. Of course, once disassembled and cleaned, I will have a clearer understanding of any wear issues.

My immediate task is to determine if the clock can run and strike as it should. I removed the movement from its case, applied a drop of oil to the pivots, reinstalled the movement, and gave the pendulum a push. It runs well. Next, I will prioritize thorough cleaning and attend to any signs of wear.

Finally, I am making my donation to the St. Vincent de Paul Society in memory of my mother-in-law, who passed away this spring. The Society of Saint Vincent de Paul is a lay “Catholic organization whose mission is to help shape a more just and compassionate society by providing food assistance, material help for the needy, emergency relief, and addressing housing challenges across Canada”.

Wag on a wall – servicing a well engineered movement

This wall clock was gifted to me in the spring of 2022. I have no idea who made the clock, there are no markings on the case or the movement. It was likely sold by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto in the 1960s and my guess, a Hermle movement. I could find nothing else about it online. I wrote an article in August with first impressions.

Wag on a wall time and strike clock

The style of the clock is a “wag on the wall”. It is a strange name but basically describes what it looks like it is doing, wagging its tail. A Wag on a wall clock is a clock with the movement enclosed in a small case with a pendulum and weights exposed.

From 1660 to about 1870, the wag-on-the-wall was a very common clock style. It is so named because the pendulum appears to wag on the wall like a dog’s tail. It is also a derivative of the English lantern clock (more closely to a converted one with a pendulum). It was eventually deemed not attractive enough to hang on the wall in many upscale homes, so wooden or glass and wooden cases were added. The long-case or grandfather clock evolved from this early wags-on-the-wall. Wooden cases were used to hide the unsightly weights and cast-iron pendulum.

The style did not disappear as many manufacturers continued making the wag-on-a-wall style clock to this day.

There were several clock assemblers operating in Canada up to the mid-1970s, and it was likely imported and assembled by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto.

It is a rack and snail movement possibly made by Hermle. The second wheel teeth are larger than one would expect so, a lot of thought went into the design of this movement. I have worked on similar movements in the past though this one is a bit different, specifically the arrangement of the hammer assembly, one main wheel is the reverse of the other, and of course, it is a weight-driven time and strike clock.

Hammer assembly
Reverse chain wheels

Based on my initial observations the movement looks fairly clean despite the tarnished brass but I am expecting minor wear issues commensurate with a 60-year-old mechanical clock.

Disassembly

I took a number of photos prior to disassembly. This is my regular practice and although I have worked on many similar movements though there are always minor intricacies that differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.

To remove the movement from its case, two slotted screws holding the movement to the seat board are released plus, the weight chains must be pulled out. To release the chains the weight hooks must be removed.

The rack and snail assembly, minute wheel, hammer assembly, escapement, and pendulum leader were removed initially and placed in a collection tray. What remained were the wheels and the lifting lever between the plates secured by four pillar nuts.

The gathering pallet arbour and the main arbour are pressure fit. So, when I separated the plates most of the wheels fell out, of course. It can be a challenge for first-time clock repairers but when one works on a few there is a certain logic to the placement and orientation of the wheels.

Assessment of the movement

Because there was generally little wear, I made three decisions. I elected not to separate the central arbour and did not pull the gathering pallet from its arbour. As a result, the plate with two arbours attached was placed in the ultrasonic. I did not disassemble the main wheels which were held together with pressure washers. The main wheel ratchets and chain teeth are in very good condition and the ratchet assembly worked as it should and there was no need to take them apart.

I cleaned up residual oil and dirt around the pivot holes, removed excess oil from the pates, inspected the pivots for wear, and placed all parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. Since I was using a smaller machine than my regular US cleaner, the parts were cleaned in three batches which took a little longer.

Older, less efficient ultrasonic cleaner

I took special care drying the main wheels assemblies and ensured they were operating correctly after they were completely free of any moisture

My wife’s hair dryer came in handy but after cleaning and drying all the parts it fell off the table and broke. Sigh!

The pivots, which are in very good condition, are polished, the pivot holes pegged out and the next step is bushing work. Two bushings are required, the second wheel front plate and the centre wheel, back plate. There is minor wear on those two holes but why not address them while the movement is apart.

Reassembly

As with many rack and snail movements, most adjustments are made after the wheels are installed within the plates but three minor adjustments make the job easier and that is ensuring the gathering pallet is free of the rack, the stop wheel is in the 12 o’clock position and the hammer actuators are free of the star wheel. They must be between the star tips, if not, one of the hammers will catch on a star tip and stall the strike.

Time and strike movement

Testing

Once fully assembled the next step is installing the chains, weights, pendulum, and testing/adjustment. A small adjustment to the height of the pallets was made after which the clock ran well and continued to run well after 5 days. It is keeping very good time, as expected of a weight-driven movement as any clock that is powered by weights releases its power uniformly through its rated cycle.

Yes, it is a very plain-looking clock that reflects the style of the time (the 1960s) but it might grow on me.

Finial replacement on a Junghans wall clock

Junghans Crispi dial face

In January 2017 I took a chance, plunked down $75 and bought a project clock which consisted of a box of clock parts.

Junghans clock in pieces
Junghans clock in pieces (notice bottom finial)

I took it home, stared at the box for a while trying to figure out what to do and how far I would get with this project. I itemized the parts, arranging them on the case as best I could and put together a plan. At least I had something to go on when someone sent me the actual catalog image of the clock.

The clock is called the Crispi by Junghans, Ca. 1899. Junghans is a reputable German clock-maker that made all styles of clocks for over 100 years in Germany and continues in the watch business to this day.

There are subtle differences between my clock and the clock in the catalog but to the untrained eye it looks much the same.

What I did not change at the time was the bottom centre finial. Most who are familiar with clock case design would agree that the bottom centre finial is actually one of the top crown finials and was re-positioned in a previous repair. I left it as-is as I went about restoring the rest of the clock.

After completing a number of other clock projects during the Pandemic as well as addressing an errant strike issue with this clock, I decided it was time to replace the finial with something more in keeping with the original design.

Here is the clock (next photo) when I finished with the case. That bottom centre finial always bothered me but, as I said, I let it be.

This is a clock that I took to a professional clockmaker to have repaired in the days when I did not have the skills to service a clock.

It worked well for about two years or more and then the strike side became very erratic. It would either strike incorrectly on the half hour or strike until the mainspring wound down. I cannot blame the repairer as these movements can be finicky to work on but my knowledge of clock repair has improved such that I can better diagnose and repair most clock issues today.

The problem was twofold. One, the paddle was not quite in the correct position in the deep slot of the count wheel at the end of the strike and the strike paddle ended the strike sequence by hanging off one of the star points of the strike wheel.

It took several attempts through trial and error but eventually I was victorious and the movement now strikes correctly.

Crispi clock back from the horologist
Top finial placed on the bottom by a past repairer

Now, let’s get back to the case. As you can see the clock had been returned to its former glory and is quite faithful to the original except for that bottom finial.

I chose a flat back unfinished 2 1/2″ by 2 3/4″ hardwood finial that is available from most clock parts suppliers. I matched the stain to the case and applied three coats of shellac. Using a drill press I made a hole to accommodate a piece of dowel in the base and finial to secure it to the lower base section. I applied yellow carpenters glue to secure it and here is the result. The cost to rectify it was minimal.

The shape, size and style is now appropriately suited to the case.

The seller had the clock in his family for many years, perhaps as long as the clock is old. Anyway, he would not budge from the $75 but he asked me to send a photo of the clock when it was completed. I did, and received no acknowledgement. I don’t think he ever thought it would look quite like this.

HAC/HAU shelf clock is attractive but the dial needs work

Bracket clock

The movement has been serviced and the next step to bringing this clock back to life is cleaning a very grimy, tarnished and worn dial.

For those unfamiliar with HAC or, The Hamburg American Clock Company (Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik), it is a well-known German company that was incorporated in 1876 as Landenburger and Lang, later with a name change to HAC in 1883 and was eventually acquired by Junghans in 1926.

Its best-known trademark is the “crossed arrows” symbol found on the movement plate and the coil gong. Unlike most HAC clocks there is no cross arrows trademark on the gong though there is one on the movement behind the pendulum rod. The name “Hamburg” was chosen at the insistence of one of its investors and “American” refers to similar American-style production methods.

I have a number of German clocks including Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.

Bracket clock
HAC clock auction photo

I bought this clock online at an estate auction in February of 2021 and because of the pandemic I had it shipped to me. The only thing I had to go on were the auction photos but it is no different than taking a chance on an eBay or similar site. Once I opened the package it is what I excepted, no surprises.

While it is an attractive design it is dirty and likely has never been cleaned. There are no parts missing, a bonus, but the case and dial require attention.

The most distracting element is the dial. In short, it is a mess.

HAC dial
HAC dial closeup

Two options

One is to replace the dial from a donor clock but given the small amount of money put into it, the fix would have been pricey. Those I have found in my internet search are going for more than I paid for it. The second option is to clean it up and make it as presentable as possible.

Cleaning the dial

Normally I use a good water-based cleaner to remove grime from a dial but in this case, the blackish-grey tinge you see in the above photo is actually 100 years of built-up oil, grease and grime. I am sure an auto mechanic owned the clock and adjusted it before he washed his hands.

Drastic measures are called for. I knew that I would be stripping the remainder of the cream-coloured paint from the dial but as I discovered, there is so little paint left that it would not have made a difference. The numbers were also rubbed away after years of use.

HAC clock is attractive but the dial needs a lot of work
HAC clock is attractive but the dial needs a lot of work

I took the dial out of the case and using Q-tips and a cleaning solution took away as much grime as possible. Some 50 Q-tips later I managed to remove most of the dirt. After rinsing with water and wiping the dial, I filled in the numbers using water-based acrylic black paint, a fine-tipped artist’s brush, and a fine-tipped .6mm permanent marker for the chapter ring.

HAC dial
HAC dial after cleaning and numbers touched up

The dial came out marginally better and the original patina has been somewhat retained. I am pleased with the result but that is as far as I will go.

From a distance, it is presentable and less distracting.

HAC clock on display

Next and last is refreshing the case.

Hamburg American Clock Co. – shelf clock, first look

HAC clock movement

This clock was an estate auction buy in early 2021. Since my wife and I were unable to bid in person we placed an online bid. So many estate auction houses are taking this very route that the days of people packing an auction house and bidding feverishly may be behind us. It was described as an unknown clock but I’d seen enough photos online to know that I had likely won a Hamburg American Clock Co. shelf clock. And, for a small shipping fee the clock was delivered to us a few days later by courier.

HAC was a well-known German company that was founded in 1883 and made clocks for a number of years before they were acquired by Gebr Junghans Uhrenfabrik or Junghans for short, in the late 1920s. I have a number of German clocks but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.

Bracket clock
Bracket clock, auction photo (with permission)

When I opened the box I inspected the clock for damage (there was none) and proceeded to look for the familiar cross arrows trademark on the backplate of the movement. I could see how it would have been easily missed by the auction house since the trademark was “hidden” behind the pendulum leader. Many HAC clocks have a trademark on the gong block, this one does not.

HAC trademark
HAC trademark

The case is a little tired and worn, especially the dial, but there is nothing amiss, no parts missing. The movement works but I am not sure what to do with a very tired looking dial face.

I pulled the movement out of the case to examine it more closely, inspect for any immediate issues, and proceeded to photograph it from different angles.

HAC clock
HAC clock, tired but working

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement, backplate

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement, front plate

Like other German movements, it is robust, well-engineered and has a certain industrialized look, even crude in some respects. The front and backplates are solid indicating that it was probably an early version of this movement. There are no “extra” holes in the plates that are often found in many other German movements, holes that are made for various functions for other styles of cases. Compared this to the #36 movement (below right) from HAC. At 8.7 cms by 10.9 cms this one is almost the exact size.

HAC clock movement
HAC #36 clock movement

The plates are almost 2 mm thick, suggesting a well engineered movement.

Movements on German mantel and shelf clocks from other manufacturers are typically bolted to a seat-board. On this clock, brackets on all 4 corners attach the movement to the inside front panel which is very American!

Numbers in the top left corner of the backplate,164, 42, and 130 tell the beats per minute, the number of escape wheel teeth, and pendulum length.

I am anxious to take the movement apart and look at ways to revitalize the case and dial.

This is an excellent winter project.

John Plewes and clock repair – a must have reference for Canadian collectors

Although there are two dozen clock books in my collection I am always on the look out for more. Some of my books profile various types and styles of clocks, some explore the history of horology while others are concerned with clock repair and case restoration.

Part of every vacation or daily outing in my province of Nova Scotia or elsewhere in Canada involves scouring the used books stores for clock books. Sometimes I am lucky and manage to locate some good ones but quite often I will leave used book stores disappointed.

This past summer (2018) I picked up John Plewes excellent book entitled Repairing and Restoring Pendulum Clocks, published in 1984.

The table of contents describes what he covers in his book.

Contents of the book

Specialized procedures

Although the book is no longer in print it provides excellent examples of clock repair procedures by describing step-by-step instruction for overhauling and repairing many movements plus the repair and restoration of dials, and cases of antique pendulum clocks. Commonly found clocks that you are likely to inherit or find on online auction sites, flea markets and antique stores are covered.

John Plewes covers clocks from Britain, Canada, the US, France and Germany. There are plenty of diagrams and photos in the book to assist the amateur or expert repair person .

For example, Chapter 4 covers the Pequegnat Regulator #1 8-day movement.

“The finest clock made in America”; Pequegnat advertisement. This clock hangs in the Canadian Clock Museum

The clock is markedly similar to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 shown below.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2

Plewes makes several interesting points regarding the design of this clock. He discusses the difficulty in finding a replacement weight and often the lighter Seth Thomas weight is substituted which leads to the clock stopping after a while. Plewes is surprisingly critical of the #1 at one point stating that the hands are too heavy since they influence the force applied to the train. The pendulum arc changes when the minute hand indicates 20 minutes after, as against that at 50 minutes. The solution, he feels, is to counterweight the hands or install lighter hands. Plewes opines that the whole point of a regulator is to maintain the constant arc and Pequegnat seemed to have missed that point when designing the clock.

Plewes covers a lot of ground in his book. Some of the advice is certainly beyond the skill level of an amateur clock repair person but if you are interested in growing within the world of clock repair and case restoration it will provide an invaluable resource.

Also included are safety tips, shop techniques, and a glossary of terms.

The book was last published over 30 years ago but If you can find it, and are interested in clock repair from a Canadian perspective it is well worth the cost.

Junghans wall clock – Sometimes a small thing can be a pain in the, well, you know

Junghans Crispi wall clock

The problem; a run-on strike. The solution; remove the movement, poke around looking for the cause, find it almost immediately and apply a quick fix.

The story

My winter (2017) project was an antique German Junghans Crispi time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was manufactured in Schwenningen, Germany in 1899. It came to me as a box of parts. I put hours of work into this project so a malfunctioning movement was a bit of a disappointment.

When I originally  disassembled the movement for servicing I made two errors. In my attempt to correct a bent star wheel paddle, I managed to snap it off.

Strike paddle

However, I also managed to snap off the paddle wheel arbor spring which is essentially a thin steel wire which maintains paddle tension during the strike. At the time I did not have the right tools to repair the break. Hmm! After a professional servicing, all is right.

Return spring that had become loose after two years (first photos taken of the movement)

Fast forward to 2019

Now, two years later the strike side decided to malfunction. It was striking incessantly. I decided to check out the problem. I took the movement out of the case, removed the clock face and immediately noticed that the strike tension wire had wiggled out of the arbor so that nothing prevented the paddle from stopping, hence the run-on strike. As I mentioned this was one of the repairs made on the clock when it was professionally serviced.

The solution is Loctite. Some purists will scoff but I believe there is place for modern materials in clock repair so long as the repair is functional and discreet. I positioned the spring correctly and applied Loctite where the wire runs into the paddle arbour and allowed it to dry for 24 hours.

After the repair the clock is striking as it should. However, it took me a couple of days to find the correct beat. For some reason this clock must be absolutely level to function correctly. If it is off by just a smidgen it will not run. Anyway, everything is fine now.

Interpreting the numbers on an antique German clock movement

These numbers 34 and 116 are found on most German antique time and strike clocks

On many German antique pendulum-driven clocks, including those made by manufacturers like Mauthe, you’ll often find various numbers stamped or engraved on the back plate of the movement. These numbers serve different purposes and provide valuable information about the clock’s origin, design, and specifications.

In this article, we will explore some of these numbers and explain their purposes.

In the lower portion of the backplate of the movement in question, there are a series of numbers. Some of these numbers have a clear explanation while others are somewhat of a mystery. For example, one number, the beats per minute number, helps a clockmaker regulate the movement during servicing.

Let’s begin with the number 34. The number 34 refers to the measurement in centimeters from the top of the suspension spring post to the bottom of the pendulum regulating nut.

Nomenclature of a German pendulum assembly

The 34 cm measurement includes the following: the top of the suspension spring post, the suspension spring, the pendulum hanger, and the pendulum rod and bob. Within this total length, the suspension spring measures 2 centimeters. The pendulum rod, from the hook to the bottom, measures 26.5 centimeters

The number 116, located next to the number 34 on the movement, refers to beats per minute (BPM). Clock train tables typically express the timing of a movement in beats per hour (BPH). A movement running at 116 beats per minute will have 6,960 beats per hour. This information is invaluable for a clockmaker when regulating a movement during servicing.

Heinrich Kielmann patented hanger

On the movement pictured above is a peculiar number that does not relate to the running of the trains themselves.

The number 55006 is a patent number, issued to Heinrich Kielmann (Ruhrort/Rhein) in 1890 or 1891. The patent concerned the hanging of the pendulum. Kielmann not only manufactured loose movements for other makers but also allowed them to produce their own movements using his patented pendulum hanging system. This is why movements from various manufacturers may bear this patent number.

You might also come across another number.

The number 7137 is a mystery

In the example above, the number 7137 could indicate a production number or a coded method of expressing the date, known only to the manufacturer. Occasionally, numbers may be reversed, as seen in earlier Junghans clocks, or they could represent a production number, where 7137 might correspond to the specific number of this clock within the range of movements produced that year. Without access to the database of Mauthe clocks, the last number remains a mystery.

Should you receive a movement without a pendulum rod, or a bob, these measurements can be invaluable for sourcing replacement parts. Knowing the precise length of the pendulum, the type of suspension spring, and the size of the movement can help you find or fabricate compatible components, ensuring the clock can be properly restored to working condition.

Alternatively, understanding these numbers will undoubtedly deepen your knowledge of clock collecting and repair.

Schatz W3 – Installing an 8-rod chime block in a custom made clock case

Some time ago I bought this movement without a case.

Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body

I discovered this Aug Schatz & Sohne W3 (circa 1960) movement at a local antique store for under CAN$20. My wife said, “You should buy that, maybe you can make a case for it”. “Hmm”, I thought; that would be above my pay grade. The movement looked interesting and it was not expensive so, why not! But, having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body but I was confident that one day I would have the solution.

This is a type W3 movement. “W3” refers to three chime tones, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster.

Rear plate
Rear plate of the W3 movement showing chime selector and chime/strike hammers

I put out a plea and two people contacted me to say they had a case that would fit. One lived in Australia and the cost of shipping the case was too high. Another corresponded twice but I sensed he realized that his case would not fit. So, I put the movement away. On a positive note it runs well.

Schatz and Sohne W3 movement installed in a custom case

The pursuit of a custom made case

In the spring of 2018 my son’s girlfriend suggested that her grandfather could build the case. He loves doing this kind of work, she said. Although skeptical at first, I accepted her offer. Though a skilled craftsman her grandfather is over 90 years of age but spends as much time as he can in his woodworking shop in rural Virginia. He agreed to do the work. I sent the measurements to him but he preferred to have the movement in hand so it was sent to Virginia. He was able to use the movement as a guide in constructing the case. The clock was returned to me in December 2018 and it looked absolutely perfect.

Now to the installation of the chime block

The dimensions of the case allowed ample room to place a chime block. The block and rods are 7 1/2 inches long but even so there was not much room to spare on one end. The 8-rod chime block is from a Canadian clock supplier and is designed for a Hermle triple chime movement. There are not a lot of 8-rod chime blocks available through suppliers and given that I had little choice I had to assume that it would work for my clock and it does!

This video describes the placement of the chime block and some experimentation to achieve the optimum sound.

The tapered sections of the rods are an inch long and the hammers must be positioned to strike the wide point of the rods for best results. The oak base was trimmed to fit, allowing for about an eighth of an inch between the rods and the hammers. To close the distance to the rods the hammer wires are bent and centered on the rods. As they are brittle, chime rods should never be bent!

Chime block and oak piece forming the base

Once I was satisfied that the chime block was correctly positioned the block was secured. First I screwed the chime block to the hardwood base with 4 brass slotted screws. And finally, I secured the chime block through the base using two 1 1/4 inch slotted screws through pre-drilled holes.

I gave the case one more coat of shellac before putting it on display.

I am impressed with the outcome. Not all movements have such a happy ending.

A new & exciting direction in clock collecting & repair

Front room collection

I have been collecting clocks for over 8 years. In that time I have enjoyed my hobby immensely and I am constantly on the lookout for new and interesting acquisitions. It is more like a daily passion.

However, I now realize that as my collection steadily grows I have more than I need or want. I cherish some of my clocks and intend to keep them for years; my Arthur Pequegnats, selected Seth Thomas clocks, clocks made by the Hamilton Clock Co. and the Canada Clock Co., my Vienna regulators and some of my German wall clocks. I don’t mind parting with other clocks now or in the foreseeable future. Some I will miss and others I will not.

A house can only hold so many clocks

My daughter correctly pointed out that I should adopt a one clock comes in another goes out approach. “One-in, one-out”, she says and it makes perfect sense.

A house can only hold so many clocks. In my small office which is 10X12 I have a total of 15 clocks, 10 of which are running daily and the remainder in various states of repair. Outside my office, at any given time, there are 26 clocks in a number of rooms around the house. I am not one of those persons on YouTube who feel the need to cover their walls with clocks. I prefer to display them in a natural way, as an integral part of the decor of my home. The number is not all that important but I am trying to keep it manageable.

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron
Kienzle World Time clock and Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock

I have decided that now is the time to sell some of my clocks. My objective is not to make money but to recover the cost of the original purchase plus my labour on each clock that I sell. These are the clocks that have left my collection recently.

I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock, circa 1950
Juba Schatz Bim-Bam mantel clock, circa 1948
Four spandrels surrounding the chapter ring
Hermle Westminster chime with moon phase circa 1985

I have also gifted eight clocks over the last 3 years and most have been mantel clocks. Antique and vintage clocks make wonderful gifts to friends and family. It is cool to see them displayed and running in their homes when I visit though I know darn well that they are wound just hours before my arrival.

On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”

As my knowledge of the clock world grows and my experience repairing and restoring them expands I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection. However, those critical choices often translate into spending more money. For example, recent acquisitions have been a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 and an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, both wall clocks.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2, time-only, weight driven clock Circa 1922
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, double spring time only clock, Circa 1930

I believe my new approach is a natural progression and perhaps I have been subconsciously heading down that path for a year or more. Unless a clock has an interesting provenance, is rare, uncommon, unique and/or is a challenge to restore I will now shy away from most of the garden variety clocks one sees on online for-sale sites and yes, I still have a few of those.

On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”.

I knew during the course of collecting antique and vintage clocks combined with increased knowledge/experience that my hobby would evolve and continuing my horological journey in a slightly different way is about time,

In clock restoration circles small details can make a big difference

Small details added during clock restoration projects can change the appearance of clock in a positive way. In this article I will describe how adding a piece (actually two), that should have there in the first place, will make all the difference.

During the fall (2018) I spent a considerable amount of time restoring a Vienna styled time and strike German made FMS Mauthe spring driven wall clock. Restoration involved completely stripping and refinishing the case and fully servicing the movement. My wife commented that the transformation was dramatic and of course, I graciously accepted the compliment.

For some reason many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers

Before

And….

After

Restoration included adding an arched door insert above the dial and a new centre top finial. Otherwise, the clock was complete except for one small item, the 2 wall stabilizers. Why would they be missing? A thumbscrew might go astray during a servicing and rather than find a replacement it is too easy to take both off and discard them.

Clock case stabilizers

Many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers. Check the rear backboard of a wall clock without stabilizers. You might find two small holes on either side of the case near the bottom indicating it once had wall stabilizers. Otherwise if you do not find those holes, the clock was never meant to have them.

Once the beat is set, level the clock on the wall and set the stabilizers by screwing each one into the wall. The stabilizers will compensate for any wall vibrations and the movement of the case during the weekly winding.

Right side stabilizer

Some stabilizers are unique to brands such as Ansonia and Gustav Becker. This, however, does not mean that they are limited to these movements, they are interchangeable. The stabilizers you see here are advertised as Vienna stabilizers.

Left and right stabilizers are barely seen but preform an important function

All clock suppliers carry stabilizers. I ordered a pair and simply re-used the screw holes on either side on the backboard to attach the stabilizers.

Are they absolutely necessary? No! Can a clock run without them. Yes! Yet, it is an often overlooked detail that might make all the difference.

Antique and vintage wall clock collection

one-weight Vienna wall clock

It has taken me 6 years to assemble my collection of antique and vintage clocks. Although I have many clocks, wall clocks are my particular favorites. Check out my collection of antique and vintage wall clocks in this YouTube video I made in January 2019.

Feel free to comment.

FMS Mauthe “Horse Crown” wall clock – servicing the movement

Most refer to the name “Horse Crown” when describing this clock and it is easy to see why. Many would also consider it a Vienna Regulator style of clock. I have been putting off servicing this movement for a while and a long time has passed since it was properly serviced. So, let’s get started. First, some background.

Mauthe “Horse Crown”

The clcok was complete save for a missing bottom centre finial. I installed a new one shorty after I bought the clock

Clocks such as these are  often missing not only a  finial or two but the crown and other parts so this clock is in good condition.

Replacement middle finial

Year it was made and a history of the company

From my research, the trademark on the front plate tells me that the movement was made between 1895 and 1914 though the exact year of manufacture is unknown. Mauthe trademarks are very distinctive and from the trademark design, one can place the clock within a specific period of time. Unfortunately, the production number on the movement is a mystery as there is no known database for Mauthe clocks.

Trademark, production number, length of the pendulum (34cm), BPM (116) & patent number

Mauthe clocks have had a long and illustrious German history. In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. They were very successful through the years and diversified in several areas but after 1946 following the production of wrist watches the company gradually fell into decline.

This clock reminds me of what Forest Gump once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”

Now let’s open it up

The clock hung on my living room wall for three years. When I bought it I knew that it would eventually require servicing but there were so many other projects on the go, it could wait. The clock ran for several months at a stretch and there were months that the clock did not run at all. So, now that other projects have been completed the time is right for a thorough servicing.

Mauthe wall clock with new bottom centre finial

Forest Gump once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”. When inspecting any antique clock movement for the first time I have learned to expect just about anything.

As I move through any project my intent is not necessarily to correct mistakes of the past since they are an important part of the clock’s history but to ensure that past repairs do not cause me grief in the future. If it is a crude but functional and sturdy repair, I will generally leave it alone. I have learned that past repairs are part of the history of the clock.

When I took the movement out of the case I discovered something quite interesting. The dial is not original. Yes, it is a Mauthe dial but not for this clock. Two brass strips are fastened to each side of the front plate to accommodate a replacement dial. The added holes drilled into the side braces tell me that it once has a slightly smaller dial.

I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity

I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity. When I bought my first Vienna Regulator I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years and it made me wonder what is original and what is not. It as an unwinnable argument and I have learned to accept the notion that it may not matter to me or to a casual observer who would not think of questioning whether a clock and its parts are original.

Two extensions, soldered to the sides to accommodate a replacement movement

But, let’s move on. A repair was made to the strike hammer which appears to have broken off at one point. Again, a rough but solid repair.

Hammer repair, you can see a pool of oil on the pivot to the left

The clock was coated in oil which was dripping down the plates. However, in terms of its general condition, there is surprisingly little wear. Perhaps the liberal application of oil had a hand in preserving the movement but I suspect that it did not run much over its life.

Mainspring servicing using the Olie Baker spring winder

The mainsprings are enclosed in barrels. I opened up the spring barrels to service the mainsprings. The mainsprings are in good shape with no evidence of rust. They cleaned up nicely. Broken mainsprings in German clocks can be problematic. Severe damage can result in missing mainspring barrel teeth and broken lantern pinions when the mainsprings let go, a challenge for any clock-maker.

Top plate removed

Strike side levers, escapement

The movement was disassembled and the parts were cleaned in my L&R ultrasonic cleaner. The springs and barrels were cleaned separately. All parts were washed in warm water and dried. Finally, the pivots were inspected and polished. Although this movement has a count wheel between the plates with levers much like an American time and strike there are no annoying helper springs to frustrate the re-assembly process.

After lubricating the mainsprings with Keystone Mainspring Lubricant, I put the movement together without the levers to check end-shake, meshing and the condition of the pivot holes. Two lantern pinions had some flat-spot wear but not enough to warrant replacement. Two pivot holes are slightly enlarged on the third and fourth wheel strike side but not so bad that they need immediate attention. If I were in the business of repairing clocks for a living I would bush those two and repair the lantern pinions.

Parts are cleaned & positioned, ready for the front plate

To reassemble the movement I secured the bottom front plate nuts to the back plate and then positioned the pivots into their holes working upwards. Once the pivots are in place on the strike side I attach the third nut loosely and continue guiding the pivots and the two lever assemblies in place. Unlike American movement which have larger pivots, care must be taken not to force the relatively small pivots into their holes.

Much like an American time and strike movement, the cam lever must be in the deep part of the cam while at the same time the count hook is in the deep slot on the count wheel. I made a note of the position of the stop wheel beforehand and in so doing managed to correctly position it on my first attempt.

I generally run a movement for an hour or so without lubricant to determine if everything is functioning properly. No point in oiling the movement repeatedly if it has the be dis-assembled to correct an issue. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running as it should, I apply oil to the pivot holes.

Having the movement out gave me an opportunity to clean up the case, paint the gong mount and movement rail and give the entire case two coats of shellac (traditional 1 lb cut). The movement is now reinstalled in the case.

With respect to my comments concerning the pivot holes and lantern pinions, putting the movement on a shorter 2-year cycle will enable me to monitor wear.

My Schatz W3 movement finally has a brand new custom built clock case

What do you do when you find a movement without a case? Hope that one comes along? Make one?

I discovered an Aug Schatz & Sohne W3 movement at a local antique store for under CAN$20. My wife said, “You should buy that, maybe you can make a case for it”. “Hmm”, I thought; that would be above my pay grade.

W3 refers to three chimes, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster. It looked interesting and it was not expensive so, why not! Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body. Maybe a case will come along someday, I thought.

Back in August of 2017 I appealed to my readers asking, “If you have a spare case that would fit this movement and it is lying around in your shop I’d be very happy to take it off your hands.”

Front plate
Triple chime Schatz movement

Aug. Schatz & Sohne are better known for 400-day clocks (including the 1000-day clock) and ships clocks. They are not typically known for shelf or mantel clocks but it is not too difficult to find them at antique stores and online auction and for-sale sites. The company is well regarded by German clock-makers.

Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body

This movement has a lever escapement though earlier versions of the W3 were pendulum driven. This particular escapement has 2 jewels; after came escapements with 7 and later still, 11 jewels.

2 jewelled escapement. Has escapement been serviced as well?

The front and back plates are thick and solid. Cut leaf pinions throughout suggest a robust movement design. There are eight chiming hammers and the chime drum can be switched to one of 4 positions; silent, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster.

The movement is clean and in good shape though it has been serviced at least once in its life. I counted 13 new bushings and a newer click spring.

I now have a brand new custom built case

Having a movement without a case is like a having a car engine without the body.

Earlier this year my son’s girlfriend suggested that her grandfather could build the case. She said he loves doing this kind of work. Although skeptical at first, I considered her offer. Her grandfather is over 90 years of age but is a skilled craftsman and he continues to work in his woodworking shop in rural Virginia when he is able. She asked him and he agreed. I sent the measurements to him. Better if I brought the movement to him, her grandfather suggested. I gave the movement to her and she brought it to Virginia while on a visit. He was now able to use the movement as a guide to constructing the case.

We corresponded back and forth through email. I gave him complete latitude concerning the design of the case though he sought my approval during certain stages of construction. After a few months, the clock began to take shape. Below is a photo of the completed case taken in his rural Virginia shop.

The harsh lighting of the shop does not do the clock justice

The glass side panels give it an old world look. The hands are original but are lost in the detail of the new dial. I have since painted them a darker colour.

There is ample room for the chime block which I must supply. The chime block is bolted through the base of the case. The chime block is positioned as close to the chiming rods as possible and if the distance has to be closed the chime hammers are bent towards the rods allowing an eighth of an inch or so of space. It is a relatively simple procedure. As they are brittle, chime rods should never be bent!

The chime block will be mounted under the chime hammers

The clock finally arrives at Christmas time (2018)

My son brought the clock back from Virginia in a carry-on suitcase just after Christmas. He took special care not to damage it in any way.

Schatz W3 bracket clock

The detail and craftsmanship are impressive and reflects hours of meticulous work.

The detail work on the case is amazing

Image from H&W Perrin Co. Ltd

I put the final touches on the clock by painting the hands black, attaching four protective felt pads under the base and giving the case two coats of shellac (traditional 1 lb cut) to achieve an antique finish. With the chime block installed the project will be complete.

After writing the maker and expressing how pleased I was of the outcome, he replied;

“I’m glad you like the case and glad that a simple fix got it running. Painting the hands black was an excellent idea, for I worried that reading time would be difficult. I hope you are able to send me a video of clock with chimes.

Best wishes”

The chime block has arrived and is a perfect fit for the case. The installation and final adjustments should be interesting so, check back later.

Sometimes working on clocks can be a pain – literally!

Mauthe Horse Crown movement

Mauthe Horse Crown

I had just completed servicing this German Mauthe time and strike wall clock and everything seemed to be going well. It was keeping good time,striking on the half hour as it should and maintaining a consistent an 8-day cycle.

During my regular Saturday clock winding ritual, I decided to begin with this clock. I inserted the key into the strike side arbour, began to turn the arbour and “bang” went the mainspring. The winding key almost took my thumb off.

I think I am going to lose that nail

Ignoring the excruciating pain I just had to investigate the problem. I took the movement out of the case and took the dial off. Of course, I feared the worst. A sound like that is never good. The barrel seemed undamaged, the teeth were intact, no bent arbours and there did not appear to be any collateral breakage.

Aha!, there it is, a loose click spring. The click released when there was not enough tension on the click to hold it firmly to the ratchet wheel.

My fault entirely. When I dis-assembled the movement I bent the click springs out of the way and did not recheck the spring’s tension. When I re-assembled the movement the click on the strike side was evidently loose but it looked tight enough. I wondered why the strike side ratchet sounded “tinny” but I thought nothing of it. Now I know.

Clicks on Mauthe movement

I increased the tension of the click spring. To be on the safe side I checked and tightened the time side one as well. Both sides now have that reassuring click-click sound. As you can see in the above photo It is not the best click spring design.

A reminder to anyone working on clocks that potential (or stored) energy in the form of powerful mainsprings can be dangerous. All is well, lesson learned. But my poor thumb!

Mauthe (FMS) wall clock restoration – Part III – the case

This is Part III, the last of a three-part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part two can be found here.

This antique Victorian style German time and strike FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased from a family living in Truro Nova Scotia that once resided in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago.

I have covered movement servicing in a previous article and now for case restoration. The case is part walnut veneer with softwood turns, frame and backboard, likely pine or poplar. All original wood surfaces were stained or lacquered to resemble walnut.

Time and a harsh environment have not been kind to this once majestic clock as the finish was in very poor condition. Stripping the case was my only option.

Mauthe crown, missing right finial

Base of clock

Stripping and staining were quite straightforward but time-consuming. After rubbing with steel wool I applied stain called Special Walnut, a light stain by Minwax which had the effect of enriching the grains even further. After the case was sanded I then applied 5 coats of shellac making the shellac in the traditional way with flakes and alcohol. I found a 1 lb cut ideal for this project.

The finish was probably the worst aligorating I have seen

Turned door column

Refinished corner section

As mentioned in a previous post, the movement was cleaned and two bushings were installed on the time side and one on the strike side. It was mounted in its case and has completed a successful testing period.

Although I was pleased with my work on the top door crosspiece, I could not find one clock online with a crosspiece similar to it from that period. Back to the drawing board!

Ogee style crosspiece on top of the front access door, stained to match case (later removed)

An Internet search for clocks of that style and period revealed that every clock had an arched top trim piece much like this Junghans Crispi wall clock from 1899.

Junghans Crispi wall clock
Junghans Crispi wall clock, restored in 2017

Making the arched top

Walnut veneer is preferred but I had to make do with oak plywood. Oak has a more pronounced grain but the end result looks good. Using a router I cut 3/16 inch oak veneered plywood into 2 curved pieces. Making a turn on a router is not as easy as it looks and it took me several attempts to get it right. After the 2 sections were cut (left, right and joining in the middle) I applied a darker walnut stain to match the case. I then covered the pieces with several coats of shellac then glued the two sections onto the top door frame.

The arched trim piece is an improvement and more in keeping with the design of the clock at that time.

Arched trim

The top finial was purchased from a supplier and stained to match the two lower finials.

The top final is new and stained to match the other two

Unfortunately, there is not much I can do about the darkened celluloid dial. Celluloid dials are almost impossible to clean. Replacement is an option but it would look out of place.

Celluloid dial with brass centre piece

The clock is now finished. The last step is regulating the movement.

The following is a breakdown of the costs & work completed:

Costs:

  • Purchase price $100
  • Amber shellac flakes, alcohol, brushes, containers – $75 (this cost will be spread over future projects)
  • Razor scraper for glass cleaning, $5
  • Finial $3
  • Furniture stripper $10
  • Suspension spring $4
  • 3/16 inch plywood $12.95
  • Corner doweling for the crown (left side) $6

TOTAL: $212.95

Traditional shellac is the only way to go

Work done:

  • Case stripped down to bare wood with furniture stripper, all surfaces except side frames
  • Sanded case
  • 1 coat of Minwax “Special” walnut stain which is lighter than dark walnut
  • 5 coats of shellac, 1 lb cut, rubbed with fine steel wool between coats.
  • Crosspiece for top of door fashioned from kitchen cabinet moulding, stained to match case, shellacked (later removed)
  • Arched top door insert made from 3/16″ oak veneered plywood, stained and shellacked
  • Adler gong and rails, cleaned & repainted
  • Beat plate cleaned and made flat, as flat as possible without damaging it!
  • Centre pan of dial face cleaned
  • Hands painted with flat black acrylic metal paint (2 coats)
  • New top centre “curtain rod” finial from Lee Valley, stained and shellacked, hole drilled for support post
  • Crown support rail constructed of softwood
  • Movement disassembled & cleaned in ultrasonic. Unable to remove the spring barrels. 3 bushings installed
  • Glass removed, scraped of shellac residue, cleaned and reinstalled. The residue told me that the case had been shellacked at least once in the past

The finished product

A satisfying project that resulted in the transformation of a clock that had been ignored for too long. its underlying beauty can finally be appreciated. Would I do things differently in the future? For the most part, no but there are some minor things I would approach in a different way. Case restoration is a learning process and each new project presents an interesting and unique challenge.

The clock has now been returned to its former glory and will now occupy a prominent location in my home.

Mauthe (FMS) wall clock restoration – Part II – servicing the movement

This is Part II of a three part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe (Friedrich Mauthe Schwenningen) wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part III, in a week or so, will cover case repairs and refinishing.

This attractive antique Victorian style German FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro. Nova Scotia over 100 years ago.

Why would someone solder the minute hand to the arbour

In this post I will discuss servicing of the time and strike movement.

As I began taking off the dial I noticed that the minute hand had been soldered to the arbour. Not only that, it was in backwards. A taper pin should secure the minute hand, not solder. Using a butane torch I freed the hand. Once the hands are off, removing the dial requires pulling 4 pins from the support posts. Following that, the bottom rail, which is secured by two machine screws, is removed. Now to work on the movement.

Very dirty movement, in need for a good cleaning

Before we do that, let’s look at the numbers on the back plate. 105 is the number of beats per minute, 42 is the length of the pendulum rod in centimeters. The number 55006 is a patent number which was issued to Heinrich Kielmann (Ruhrort/Rhein) in 1890/1 and concerned the method of hanging the pendulum. The number 20934 refers to a production run but I have no idea what date is assigned to that number. The Adler gong has the FMS eagle on the block and from my research the eagle was placed on gongs going forward in 1898. Therefore, the clock is from about 1898 – 1905.

Coiled gong and gong block by Adler

The movement has not been serviced in some time. Expecting to see a significant amount of wear, I was pleased to discover the movement in generally good condition.

The pallets had little or no wear and the escape wheel likewise looked good. The pivots had very little wear and polished up nicely. There were 4 pivot holes that needed some degree of attention. I decided that two on the strike side were not so bad that they could wait but two others were quite worn, the centre wheel, front and the motion works wheel just above it. This is expected as these wheels carry most of the load from the mainsprings.

2 of 3 Bushings were installed for these pivots

The count wheel strike and motion works

After a 30 minute cleaning cycle the solution was quite dirty, in fact so dirty that I disposed of the solution

I take plenty of photos as an aid in helping me relocate the movement parts on reassembly. Sometimes the wheels on the strike and time side look similar. In the case of this movement there was no confusing which side the wheels should go.

I disassembled the movement and placed the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner. After a 30 minute cycle the solution was very dirty, in fact so dirty that I disposed of the solution (it is biodegradable). Reassembly was straightforward as most of the adjustments to the strike side occur outside the plates, unlike a typical American time and strike movement where there a myriad of levers and helper springs that seem to pop out when you you are trying your best to get everything set up between the plates.

As a side note, Mauthe did make time and strike movement with the count wheel located between the plates and with conventional wire levers.

The only critical adjustment is the stop wheel which has to be in the correct position otherwise the strike will not function correctly. Trial and error is needed to get this right but I set it correctly on the first attempt.

Stop pin on the strike train; positioning the stop pin upon reassembly is critical

Unfortunately, I do not have a test stand tall enough for this movement and the case was used to test the movement. The movement slides in and out on a set of rails making it relatively easy to make the necessary adjustments.

Cleaned, reassembled and installed in the case for testing.

One issue, a broken suspension spring. Could have been my handling of the movement or it was already broken. Nevertheless, my order from the supplier arrived and the spring has been replaced. Most clockmakers would agree that it is a good practice to replace the suspension spring as they weaken with age.

During testing the strike side was sluggish and would not engage from time to time. I attributed this to an enlarged pivot hole on the star wheel, back plate one of the two I noticed earlier. The new bushing was a very small #7 Bergeon at 0.80 mm (inside dimension) with very little margin for error. With the new bushing (a total of 3 for the movement) the strike side was still sluggish. After taking the movement apart again I found a slightly bent arbour on the second wheel of the strike side which I fdiscovered when I attached it to my lathe. Using a hollowed punch tool I straightened it out.

Broken suspension spring

The reassembled movement was oiled and mounted in the clock case. The recoil escapement is adjustable and a slight tweaking of the verge corrected the beat. After a few frustrating adjustments exacerbated by a bent arbour, the movement is running well after servicing.

Next, I will cover case refinishing for this fine old clock.

NOTE: After completing this project I designed and built an extension for my movement test stand to allow me to work on movements with long pendulums such as this one.

Mauthe (FMS) wall clock restoration – Part I – assessment and first steps

This is Part I of a three part series on restoring this beautiful 1900s Mauthe wall clock.

This Victorian style German wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago. I found the clock on a local online for-sale site. It looked interesting but there was no price listed. I contacted the seller but they were asking considerably more than I was willing to pay. I explained the work that had to be done to the case, servicing of the movement and the fact that had it been in better condition they would easily receive more for the clock. I concluded the phone conversation with my top offer for the clock. They contacted me 4 days later and met my price.

Celluloid dial with brass centre pan

Open containers of Kerosene usually indicate that the owner thought the vapor would lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed

It is a (FMS) Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an Adler gong. I have been assured by the seller that the clock is original in every way and using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information I was provided. The eagle emblem on the Adler gong suggests that it was made after 1898.

The seller said the movement was maintained regularly. For years a small thimble of liquid was placed inside the clock to keep it lubricated though she could not recall what the liquid was. I said that this was a wide practice in the old days of keeping a clock movement lubricated, a folk remedy that might work but was not ideal. In fact, from about 1850 to 1920 roads were dirt, dust was everywhere, and people depended on their clocks. They routinely took the dial off and swabbed the movement out with kerosene. They often used a little brush, made with a few chicken feathers. Kerosene (paraffin) was available everywhere and, if used often, was probably an excellent way to rinse away the dust and at the same time oil the movement for a while. A little cup, a thimble or a  greasy medicine bottle of kerosene was placed inside the clock case to maintain lubrication. Open containers of Kerosene indicate that the owner thought the vapor would slowly evaporate and lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed.

What to do about the case

The finish is alligorated. Alligorated finishes are those that have encountered heat damage and are characterized by a finish (shellac or lacquer) that softens and pools into globules collecting dirt as it re-hardens.

For this project I essentially have three options,

  • Leave the case as-is,
  • Attempt to dissolve the alligorating using a solution (see ingredients below) or
  • Strip the case down to the bare wood.

I eliminated the first option. The case is very unsightly.

On to option number 2. I first attempted to dissolve the alligorated finish using a mixture of turpentine, kerosene and white vinegar combined with #0000 steel wool and while I was able to soften the globules the surrounding area lightened considerably. The net effect was a blotchy finish.

While taking the glass panels out I noticed a residue of shellac on the edges of the glass panels, so, I was dealing not only with the original finish but whatever had been applied over the original finish.

On to the last option, stripping the case

To remove the finish I used EZ Strip, a non-caustic and Eco-friendly product. Though it was non-caustic I wore gloves and ensured that my workspace had good air flow. EZ Strip is jelly-like and relatively easy to work with. After allowing it to sit on the finish for 20-30 minutes it is ready to strip. Despite the ease of application it required rubbing and scrubbing to take off the original finish to the bare wood.

This is the finish when I received the clock

This is the crown before stripping,

The crown

And after.

The finish is removed from the crown

As the case is missing a trim piece on the upper part of the door I fashioned a piece from some cabinet trim. A new slotted wooden stabilizer that secures the crown to the case was constructed of softwood. This you cannot see but it ensures that the crown stays securely on the top of the case. Also missing is a corner piece on the left side of the upper crown. Cove moulding works well. I purchased a finial from Lee Valley and it worked well for this project.

Removing the old finish had an immediate effect. The grain of the walnut veneer that had been hidden all these years was finally exposed.

Case is stripped, awaiting sanding, stain and final finish

For the final finish I will use shellac prepared in the traditional way. This is my first experience with shellac flakes and it is best to begin with a light consistency called a 1 lb cut. This is approximately a 1:8 ratio of shellac to alcohol. Therefore, 1 oz (28g) of shellac is dissolved in 8 fl oz (236ml) of denatured alcohol. I plan to use a French polish technique and apply the shellac and a broad artists brush to coat the turned sections.

Why is it frustrating asking for advice on social media?

I posted my case restoration project on a popular online clock site. I was seeking advice on working with shellac and while I received good advice the discussion quickly morphed into a debate about whether or not it is ethical to strip a case. There was significant division. Those on one side said they would do very little but clean it up or take the objectionable dirt off the finish while the other side posited that if presented with a situation where the finish was so poor that you could not appreciate the beauty of the veneers, a stripping is an acceptable alternative. Although both arguments have merit some of the posters were somewhat indignant and considered it a heresy to do anything at all to a clock case. There will always be both sides of the argument and I respect that.

See servicing of the movement and the final finishing of the case in Parts II and III, in the weeks to come.

Perspective on Horological (clock) Development

Need a quick primer on developments and inventions in horology. You have come to the right place.

18th Century shelf clock Porto, Portugal

Though by no means a definitive guide the following are some important dates in the history of the clock as gathered through a number of sources. The difficultly in affixing some dates with precision results from discrepancies among sources.

Horological developments during the centuries before the mechanical clock are left out altogether. Water (Clepsydra) and sun clocks of the middle ages and astronomical clocks of ancient China deserve special mention but are the subject of a separate discourse and are not included here.

Important dates in Horological Development

  • CA. 1300 – First mechanical verge clock, Europe
  • 1364 – Astronomical clock conceived by Giovanni de Dondi, Italy
  • 1386 – Tower (turret) clock Salisbury Cathedral, England

Salisbury cathedral clock, photo by Dr. Meghan Joiner

  • CA. 1400 – Fusee invented by Jacobs, Czechoslovakia
  • CA. 1450 – Table clock with spring and fusee, Phillip the Good of Burgundy, France
  • CA. 1500 – Mainspring invented, Germany
  • CA. 1510 – Watch invented by Peter Henlein, Germany
  • CA. 1560 – Spring driven portable clock, Germany
  • CA. 1570 – Oldest known clock with a second hand, Orpheus clock, Germany
  • 1637 – Galileo, swinging temple lamp, pendulum control conceived, Italy
  • CA. 1650 – First tower clock appears in Colonies, America
  • 1656 – Pendulum clock devised by Huygens, Holland
  • 1657 – Verge and foliot gives way to pendulum control, Huygens, Holland
  • 1658 – Long-case prototype made by Fromanteel adapted from lantern clock, England
  • 1660 – Balance wheel conceived by Hooke, England
  • CA. 1675 – Richard Towneley invents the dead-beat escapement, England
  • 1675 – Balance wheel with spiral spring invented by Huygens, Holland
  • CA. 1675 – Recoil escapement and crutch invented by Hooke in collaboration with Clement, England
  • 1676 – Rack striking developed by Barlow, England
  • 1680 – 1700 – famous horologists of this era were Arnold, Earnshaw, East, Graham, Knibb, Compion and Windmills of England; Berthoud, Breguet and LeRoy of France
  • 1701 – St Sulpice seminary tower clock (imported from France), Montreal, Canada
  • 1713 – Harrison invents marine chronometer, England
  • CA. 1715 – Break-arch dial introduced
  • 1715 – Graham perfects deadbeat escapement, regarded as the “father” of the dead-beat escapement
  • 1717 – First tower clock of America, Benjamin Bagnall, Boston
  • 1726 – Mercurial pendulum invented (temperature compensating pendulum), Graham, England
  • 1726 – Wall clock by Thomas Bennett, 8 day brass, weight driven, America
  • 1736 – Harrison’s marine chronometer tested at sea (accurately ascertaining longitude), England
  • 1770 – White dials appear in English longcase clocks
  • 1776 – Independent seconds train invented for watch, Pouzait, Switzerland
  • 1790 – Vienna regulator style case emerges in Austria
  • 1790 – American woodworks clocks begin to be appear
  • 1802 – Willard patents his banjo clock, America
  • 1806 – Terry introduces Pillar and Scroll clock, America
  • 1809 – Martin Cheney leaves America to set up a clock-making shop in Montreal, Canada
  • 1810 – Carriage clock (Pendule De Voyage) introduced by Breguet of France
  • 1818 – Heman Clark makes wrought brass movement for Pillar and Scroll case, America
  • 1825 – Rolled brass production begins in America
  • 1837 – Noble Jerome 30-hour brass movement patent approved, America
  • 1840 – American brass movements in mass production
  • 1842 – American brass movement clocks exported to England by Chauncey Jerome
  • 1845 – Wood-works movement production ends, America
  • 1850 – Westminster tower clock designed by Lord Grimthorpe and made by Dent, England
  • CA. 1850 – Brocot (pin-wheel) escapement and pendulum suspension introduced, France
  • CA. 1850 – American mass production of watches begins
  • 1860 – Junghans (Germany) sent to America to study American mass production techniques
  • 1870 – Decline in English long-case clocks
  • 1874 – Mass production of mantel and wall clocks begin in Whitby, Canada,
  • 1900 – American clock production is at its height; makers are Ansonia, Ingraham, Gilbert, Howard, New Haven, Seth Thomas, Waterbury, and Welch
  • 1904 – Arthur Pequegnat begins clock production in Berlin, Canada
  • 1906 – Eureka electric clock introduced, America
  • CA. 1910 – Torsion pendulum clock (400-day) introduced, Germany
  • 1920-40 – Decline in American mechanical clock production
  • 1941 – Arthur Pequegnat ceases production, Canada
  • CA. 1960-70 – End of mass produced mechanical clocks, America (though cheaper Japanese, Korean & Chinese mechanical clocks flood North America)
  • Present day – Some movement and clockmakers remain; Howard Miller (Ridgeway), Keininger, Hermle, Chelsea, Jaeger LaCoultre among others

The clock is one of mans greatest achievements. The development of instruments to tell time is the unwavering toil of brilliant minds from many disciplines who, over 800 years, worked tirelessly to create, innovate and improve methods for telling the time.

Horology is not only the study of time but the synergy of art, joinery, fashion, design, décor, physics, engineering, metallurgy and mathematics. Indeed, the study of the mechanical clock is a microcosm of our society.

Time rules life – like it or not.

Tick-Talk Tuesday #17 – Can you tell me something about my Mauthe wall clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, questions about its origin, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

Mauthe time and strike box clock
Mauthe time and strike box clock

RC writes,

“I was looking online for information on the exact Mauthe Box clock you have.  I am going through my late fathers estate & trying to find out what it’s worth. It belong to my great uncle and passed onto my dad. Every since I was a little boy I can remember this clock being at my great uncles home.

Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a picture of the clock.”

This is my box clock.

Box clock
Mauthe time and strike Box clock

My reply,

“You have a time and strike box clock. These have excellent movements and should run for years. A servicing would be due, however.

It might have the 3-rod “Divina gong” which, according to the standard German reference, Hans-Heinrich Schmid’s (2005) Lexikon der Deutschen Uhrenindustrie 1850-1980, is a Mauthe trade-name registered in 1912. It would have a pleasant two-tone, bim-bam sound. Unmarked box clocks like mine were likely sold as a Solar house brand by Eatons. Your is marked and was likely bought from a jeweler.

Thousands of German “box clocks” were made in the first third of the 20th century. The box clock replaced the classic “Vienna Regulator” after the First World War and reflected a minimalist approach to clock design. Most were made in Germany. I would date your to about the 1930s.

The following is excerpted from one my blog posts.

Mauthe clocks have had a long and illustrious history in Germany.  In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. At the end of the 1860s Mauthe began to produce their own wall clocks (and movements). The Mauthe sons Christian (1845-1909) and James (1847-1915) took over in 1876. In 1886 Mauthe began manufacturing its own springs. Around 1900, alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks and so called “Buffet Uhren” or “Buffet clocks” were offered. In 1904 the 3rd generation took over (Eugene Schreiber (1877-1939) – son of Christian Mauthe, Dr. Fritz Mauthe (1875-1951) – son of Jacob and Mauthe Alfred (1879-1911) – son of Jacob Mauthe to build on the base of the company.

In 1925 Mauthe announced a new trademark. It shows a right-looking eagle with outstretched wings, holding in its talons a three-part round plate with the letters F, M and S.
In the  1930s the company at its peak produced about 45.000 clocks per week.  About 60% were produced for export markets such as England. In the Mid-30s Mauthe started to manufacture their first wrist watches and some were supplied to the German Army (“Wehrmacht”). From 1946 on Mauthe re-started with the production of wrist watches. Shortly after that the company eventually fell into decline.

As to value, Mauthe wall clocks are currently in the $200 and $500 range depending on condition. A serviced clock would fetch more.

I would clean it up, service it and proudly display it.”

 

What is this clock thing for? #2 – the strike rod lock

Strike rod stabilzer

If you ever need to transport a German box clock or a similar style wall clock there are several steps you must take before you remove it from the wall.

German "box" clock by Mauthe
German “box” clock by Mauthe, sold under the Solar or Forestville name in Canada

One of these procedures is to secure the strike rods. The gong or strike rods are screwed into the gong block. If allowed to move during transport there is a risk that the rod(s) will break. Although they are strong and withstand years of striking they are also brittle and can easily snap. Clock-makers have several solutions for securing the rods. This is one of them. Yours may be similar.

Gong block
The gong block

On some clocks, you may find a fork-like device that turns to secure the rods.

Strike rod stabilzer
Strike rod stabilizer

By turning it clockwise the three gong rods will fit into the forks as shown in the next photo.

Rod Stabilizer
The pendulum is removed and rods are now locked in place

Once the rods are secured in place and you have removed the pendulum rod and bob as well as secure the access door, you can now safely remove your clock from the wall.

Blackforest shelf clock (Canadian made) gives me grief but decides to run again

Blackforest movement on the test stand
Blackforest shelf clock
Blackforest shelf clock

The clock is a 1937 Blackforest Royal Tour commemorative edition shelf clock with an 8-day time-only “plate” clock movement. Plate clock movements are so-called because they were typically used on kitchen clocks with Dutch Delft plates such as this one in the next photo.

Delft Clock from Forestville
Delft Plate Clock from Forestville

The movement is likely German and could have been made by a number of companies. There are no stamps or markings on the movement to give any indication of the maker. Canadian companies such as the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (the Forestville Clock Company after the war) imported German movements before the Second World War and installed them in Canadian made cases.

Grimy movement prior to cleaning
Grimy movement prior to cleaning

This clock had been happily running for about a year and then last week it suddenly stopped after a winding. I nudged the pendulum in an effort to make it go, checked to see if it was in beat and level but no luck. I nudged the pendulum a few more times, left it for a day or so, tried it again and still no luck. I was at the point of disassembling the movement to investigate the problem. Two days later I wound it tight and gave the pendulum a push and it sprang to life. I think I know what happened.

I thought I did a good job of servicing the movement including the mainspring over a year ago but apparently not well enough. You may have heard the expression, “you overwound the clock so that’s why it stopped”. There is a grain of truth in the expression because if you wind the spring till it winds no further the mainspring is at it tightest. If there are dirt, grime and rust on the mainspring the mainspring will actually cease in place, hence the clock stops. I believe this is what occurred in this case. Although it is running now it will need to be properly cleaned. In the meantime, I will let it run and see if it completes its full 8-day cycle.

Clocks we saw while on a visit to Spain and Portugal

In the early spring, my wife and I travelled to Portugal and Spain. We attended our daughter’s destination wedding in Sintra, Portugal and we decided to expand our stay, visit Spain and see the sights in Barcelona and Montserrat. Spain has always been on our bucket list and it did not disappoint.

Being a clock enthusiast I did a little research beforehand to find out if there were any clock museums along our travel route. Alas, we travelled to places that were very distant from the well know clock museums. Clocks in Europe were made in specific regions and that is where you will find clock museums. Here are a few clocks that I found in various places in Spain (Barcelona) and Portugal. I will let the photos tell the story.

Tall case clock in a cathedral
Tall case clock in a Barcelona cathedral

Little card on the side simply said "High box clock, school clock"
Little card on the side simply said “High box clock, school clock”, Barcelona

Marriage of movement and case found in a shop in Porto.
A marriage of movement and case found in a shop in Sintra, Portugal

Town clock in downtown Sintra, Portugal
Town clock in downtown Sintra, Portugal

Very ornate clock in poor condition, Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal
A very ornate clock in poor condition, Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal

Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal
Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal

Tivoli Hotel, downtown Sintra. Unknown tall-case clock
Tivoli Hotel, downtown Sintra. Unknown tall-case clock

The most ornate clcok is this working example at the Porto basilica
The most ornate clock I found is this working example at the Porto basilica

Unknown mantel clock, Tivoli Hotel, Sintra, Portugal
Unknown mantel clock, Tivoli Hotel, Sintra, Portugal

Unknown gallery clock. I could not find an opening on this clock. No arbor holes on the clock face.
Unknown gallery clock. I could not find an opening on this clock. No arbour holes on the clock face. Found on an estate in Sintra, Portugal

Flea market clock. Time and strike English or German clock, 1960s
Flea market clock. Time and strike English or German clock, the 1960s

Flea market clock. Time and strike French clock with matching candelabra
Flea market clock. Time and strike French clock with matching candelabra

Used goods store, time and strike wall clock, possibly French
Used goods store, time and strike wall clock, possibly French

I was not specifically looking for these clocks but as we visited churches, museums, shops and public places I photographed any I discovered in our travels.

Tick Talk Tuesday #13 – Mauthe wall clock circa 1960s

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

Modern Mauthe wall clock circa 1970S
Modern Mauthe wall clock circa 1970S

DK writes, “I just received this clock.  I’m hoping you can help me identify it and maybe help me to fix it. I’d like to see if I can repair it if possible. Hope to hear from you.”

I write back, “Can you send a photo of your Mauthe clock with the door closed?”

An attractive wall clock by Mauthe
An attractive wall clock by Mauthe

DK, “I seemed to have fixed it so it is working, however the Lewis girl at the bottom of the pendulum I turn it to increase a time or decrease the time how does it go or work?”

Me, “Your Mauthe clock is from the 1960s. It is a time and strike and should run reliably for years. To adjust the rate, turn the thumbscrew at the bottom of the pendulum clockwise to speed the clock up or counterclockwise to slow it down.”

DK, “Thanks Rockin Ronnie. Does this clock have any value?”

Me, “Not especially. Depends on the market but perhaps upwards of 100US in top condition.”

DK, “Thanks Ron I kind of figured as much. Have yourself a good day and thank you for everything!”

Note: In 1970, Mauthe struggled for survival, and in 1975 the company was in receivership and forced to close in 1976.

My Forestville mantel clock looks like yours

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Forestville mantel clock
My Forestville mantel clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible response to your question

AM writes, “I am writing in hopes you can help me figure out how to safely set and wind my clock !

It looks pretty much identical to this one of yours I found online. Exactly same roman numerals. Forestville name in gold appliqué at top. GERMANY appliqué near the VI at bottom. Two key holes. Wing shaped box. Mine has darker brown wood glossy, and only one gold trim line. Same little feet. It has a silver colour key. I tentatively tried winding the left side clockwise, and it wound, but seemed tight. So I only wound it twice.  Scared to try the left side. Please let me know if you would – what each wind is for, and whether to go clockwise or counterclockwise. Thanks in advance for any clues you can give me.”

Roman numerals, Forestville name

Over winding a clock is a myth

My response, “Hi, These Forestville clocks have German movements. The movements are quite robust and will last for years. The left side is the strike side and the right side is the time side. You should be able to wind each side as tight as possible. Over winding a clock is a myth. If the clock does not run after you have wound each arbour to the limit, the springs are rusty and have seized the clock. However you should be able to safely wind each side several turns. The strike side will not function unless the time side is wound fully. You can get a feel for how the clock is wound. These clocks wind clockwise and the strike side might be a little tighter than the time side, I know mine is. The clock sounds like an old wristwatch because it has a hairspring or a floating balance wheel escapement not the usual pendulum ( I gather yours is the same). Anyway, do not be afraid of your clock. Wind it and enjoy it.

AM writes back and says, “Hello and thank-you for your reply. I took the plunge and wound each side about 4-5 X. No ticking as yet !  It must be seized at you said…Not sure what to do now cuz we live in the XXXXXXX and I doubt a clock expert nearby (within 300 km). Prince George is 3 hr drive west, and Grande Prairie Alberta 2.5 hr east. Will start asking around for sure. It is quite funky and reminds me of my Aunty Jane… so I will use as décor for the interim.”

My reply, “Open the access door. Locate the escapement at the top of the movement. If it is exposed give the wheel a little push. If it is in a plastic enclosure, tap on the plastic a few times. That might be enough to free the escapement. If it runs you have power through the clock. If it does not your power issue might be elsewhere i.e. seized springs, bent wheels etc. Unfortunately a repair would be far more than the clock is worth but that is a decision you will have to make.”

Hairspring escapement in my clock

AM managed to get the clock working but it will not strike despite plenty of whirring.

Balance wheel or floating balance escapement

Closer look at the floating balance escapement

AM says, “Well now I’m thinking maybe I can fix the chime myself ?  Particularly with your help.  So this one last attempt will show you how it sounds.  I also need to know:

  1. During the weekly wind, if I just do not wind the chime… will it stop the click and whirr without affecting the clock time?
  2. Here’s what I see at the back during non-chime time – one hammer is a ‘two in one’, and it was up, but the one at the back was down touching the rod.  So I tried lifting it, and realized that the little black metal stopper that holds the ‘two’ works well, but the front stopper wouldn’t hold the back hammer.  I gently bent that front black stopper (horrors? !) so it will hold it up. But still no chime.
  3. Then I decided to take a wee video of the strike during chime time.  At 11:00 that morning, this is what happened in the back of the clock:
  4. It seems to me by the length of whirring, that the chime is out of whack in that sense also.  Not sure tho how much whirr = one chime.”

I took a look at the video and the strike rods are way too high above the rods.

My reply, “There are three hammers. Your clock is not a chiming clock – it is a striking clock. A chiming clock makes a musical sound and typically the musical sound is the Westminster chime on the quarter hour. You have what is called a striking “Bim-bam” clock. The rear hammer hits first followed by the two front hammers to make that bim-bam sound. The hammers should be just above the strike rods. Yours are too high to strike the rods therefore you are not getting the sound of the strike. Lower the rods by slightly bending them past the rods to the side and bend them so that they are just barely above the rods leaving a gap of about 1/8 inch. They should now work as designed. I can only surmise that someone in the past bent the rods upwards to quiet the clock.”

AMs Forestville clock
AMs Forestville clock, a very attractive Art Deco clock

AM replies, “Ok!  Well that makes sense, and even the bending of the hammers.  I can hear and see my Uncle Bill … first swearing, then getting in there and bending those hammers!  He was dear soul really. Thanks for all your help”.

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