If you’re a collector of any kind, you’ll relate to what I have to say in this blog article. In the early years of collecting anything, many of us follow a very familiar path. We begin with breadth rather than depth, acquiring whatever speaks to us, and for me, it was mantel clocks, shelf clocks, kitchen clocks, the occasional novelty piece, and just about anything that ticked.
One of the enduring truths about horology is that a clock collection, much like anyone who collects, is never static. It ebbs and flows, expands and contracts, and evolves in quiet harmony with the collector’s own journey. Over time, clocks are added, sold off, traded, gifted, or, when age and wear have had their final say, parted out or retired completely. In this way, a clock collection behaves much like the history of clockmaking itself—constantly in motion, shaped by shifting tastes, new discoveries, and changing priorities.
The first antique clock I ever bought, 25 years ago, is still in my collection
But as time passes, so too do our personal preferences. For me, the evolution has been gradual. I now own far fewer mantel and shelf clocks than I once did. Instead, my interests have gravitated toward wall clocks—regulators, Vienna-style pieces, and distinctive works by specific makers, especially those connected to Canada’s own horological heritage. Collectors often narrow their focus as their knowledge grows. It is a natural growth.
Even recently, the changing nature of a collection becomes clear in unexpected ways. Just the other day, a clock enthusiast emailed me asking if I could measure the glass door bezel of a clock for a replacement piece of glass. Unfortunately, I couldn’t help because I had parted with that clock four or five years ago, even though I had written about it several times in blog posts. It was a reminder that clocks, like memories, pass through our lives and collections, leaving traces of their stories even after they’ve moved on.
The clock in question
This change is partly driven by experience. After handling clocks from different eras, regions, and makers—from the mass-produced American clocks of the early 1900s to the quieter Canadian ventures of the early 20th century—we start to notice subtleties: the quality of the movement, the style of the escapement, the character of the case. Some clocks speak to us in a lasting way; others pass through our hands like chapters in a book we enjoyed but will never reread.
A favorite clock in my collection
Practical considerations echo historical realities as well. Just as factories once adapted production methods to suit changing markets, collectors adapt to the constraints of space and lifestyle. Mantel and shelf clocks take up real estate. Wall clocks—particularly regulators and finer makers’ pieces—offer presence without clutter. The shift is natural, almost inevitable.
And then there is the human side of collecting. Some clocks are sold to fund the next important acquisition, just as workshops once sold older stock to invest in improved machinery. Some are gifted to friends or family, continuing a tradition of passing clocks from one generation to the next. A few, too worn or incomplete to justify further effort, end their journey—much as many historical clocks did when changing technology made them obsolete.
Clocks like this attractive Mauthe buffet clock were sold off to acquire new pieces
A living collection tells a story. A static one may be beautiful, but a changing collection reflects the realities of horology—shaped by new finds, practical decisions, sentimental choices, and the gradual shift of personal taste. A changing collection also keeps me enthused and energized.
In the end, our collections evolve as we do. They follow the contours of our interests, the limits of our space, and the discoveries that excite us. Change is constant—each adjustment bringing us closer to the clocks that truly matter to us, those that will remain as markers on our own timeline.
If you’ve ever browsed an antique shop or clock auction and marveled at the craftsmanship of century-old clocks, you might find yourself thinking: “They sure made things better back then.” And while that’s sometimes true — many antique clocks were built with care and skill — there’s a hidden trap in that assumption.
It’s called survivorship bias.
What Is Survivorship Bias?
Survivorship bias is a common thinking error where we draw conclusions based only on the things that made it through a process, while ignoring those that didn’t. In doing so, we develop a distorted view of reality.
We often lament that cars from the 1950s and ’60s we think were better built than those today, forgetting that many were poorly built even back then. The ones that survive often bear little resemblance to how they were originally manufactured — replacement parts have been modified and improved over the years, making them seem more durable than they actually were. So while some vintage cars were outstanding, the idea that they were all built better doesn’t hold up under scrutiny.
Scottish tall case clock, circa 1848
We often hear that “Anyone can become a billionaire if they just work hard and follow their passion.” But in reality, we hear about the few massively successful startups like Apple, Google, or Tesla, but not the thousands of startups that fail every year, many with equally passionate, hardworking founders.
In the world of art and literature, we hear, “If your work is good, you’ll get discovered.” But in the real world, many great writers, musicians, and artists never get recognition. We remember Shakespeare, Jimmy Hendrix, Andy Warhol, or Hemingway—not the countless others who were equally or more talented but remained unknown.
And in horology? It means assuming that most antique clocks were well-made, simply because the ones we see today are the ones that survived.
The Clocks We Don’t See
The clocks in our collections today — the Seth Thomas regulators, Arthur Pequegnats, Vienna regulators, and elaborately carved Black Forest cuckoos — survived decades of use. They endured house moves, children’s fingers, neglect, and sometimes even disasters like floods and fires.
Brands like New England Clock Company or Gilbert produced thousands of clocks, but many examples haven’t stood the test of time, not necessarily because they were inferior, but because they were ordinary
But they’re only part of the story.
A great many clocks didn’t make it. Countless kitchen clocks, shelf clocks, novelty pieces, and cheaply made imports wore out, broke down, or simply weren’t valued enough to be saved. Some were discarded when electric clocks — and later, quartz movements — came along.
Others were lost during attic clean-outs, yard sales, or were upcycled (an ogee clock converted into a curio cabinet), while many were simply discarded. In some cases, their movements survived, salvaged as spare parts by a professional repairer or an enthusiast.
A common early 20th-century kitchen clock by Sessions
Designed obsolescenceand why old clocks still work
What we don’t see are all the poorly made clocks—both old and modern—that broke down and were discarded, especially those intentionally designed with a limited lifespan. For example, many alarm clocks were built with planned obsolescence in mind. While they are often fixable, they were not originally designed to be repaired.
Baby Ben, made in China, designed with a short lifespan in mind
During the late 1800s and early 1900s, companies like Ingraham, Sessions, and Waterbury were churning out affordable clocks for middle-class households. Many of these were built to a price point, not to last generations.
Grandfather clocks from the 1970s and ’80s were often designed with a useful lifespan of about 25 years. So why are so many still running today, decades beyond their expected service life? Survivorship bias may offer us a clue: the ones we still see are the exceptions—the clocks that were better made, gently used, well maintained, or lucky.
The many that failed early or were discarded quietly don’t show up in our collections or on auction sites, so we assume they never existed or that these clocks were built to last forever. But the full picture tells a more nuanced story. Survivorship bias hides their absence, leading us to believe that the average quality was higher than it actually was.
A case in point: my Ridgeway grandfather clock has been running regularly since I acquired it in 2013. The clock isn’t necessarily better made than others from its era, but when I bought it from the seller in Halifax, he told me it had belonged to his mother and was likely rarely kept wound. When it eventually stops—and that day will come—I will face several choices: repair it, replace the movement, or discard the clock altogether.
Ridgeway grandfather clock
So when we look around and see only the clocks that survived, we risk thinking that all clocks from 100 years ago were reliable, attractive, and well-built. That’s not true. We’re looking at a biased sample — the winners of the survival game.
And let’s not forget that many of the clocks we admire today wouldn’t still be ticking if not for the patient efforts of collectors and restorers who brought them back from the brink.
What This Means for Collectors and the Value of Their Prized Clock
Understanding survivorship bias in horology serves as a helpful reminder to appreciate the clocks we do have — they endured, though the fact that they survived does not necessarily make them valuable or rare.
Recognizing this bias helps us avoid assuming that everything old is of high quality or value, and encourages us to remain open to discovering lesser-known makers or designs that weren’t widely preserved, perhaps because they were ahead of their time, produced in small numbers, or simply unlucky.
A New Haven Schoolhouse clock was saved from the trash bin; not particularly pretty, but still a reliable timekeeper
Final Thoughts
Antique clocks are storytellers — not just of time, but of survival as well. Each one we wind today represents dozens or hundreds that didn’t make it. That’s part of their magic. And as collectors, restorers, or admirers, it’s worth remembering: what we see is just the tip of the horological iceberg.
Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.
My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.
19 wall clocks in my collection
My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.
The Seth Thomas Type 89 movement is a robust and well-regarded mechanical clock movement widely used in many of Seth Thomas’ mantel and shelf clocks from the early 20th century to 1938.
The movement was introduced in 1900 and became one of Seth Thomas’ most popular and enduring movements.
There are several variants (89A, 89C, 89D, etc.), each tailored to specific clock models. The differences often involve small design adjustments like the escapement, strike train, or gearing. For example, some had solid back plates, some cut out, and some had a passing bell on the half-hour.
All Type 89 movements are time and strike and eight-day running and most use a strip pallet deadbeat escapement or according to Seth Thomas’s literature a “half deadbeat” escapement which is reliable and relatively easy to service. The most striking difference between the half-deadbeat and a recoil escapement is that the escape wheel teeth slant forward into the direction of rotation. Advantages: it was cheap to produce and still has fairly decent time-keeping ability.This video (no sound) shows the action of the escapement.
I consulted a chart (below) describing all the variations of the 89 and from what I can deduce this one is a type 89C movement.
Two Important strike-side Issues
The movement was in good condition overall. It was cleaned up and three new bushings were installed. The escape wheel bushings front and back were the most worn. The next was the fourth wheel front plate, adjacent to the escape wheel.
Testing the depthing of the wheels
One minor hiccup when reassembling was dealing with a broken helper spring on the lifting lever. Shortening the spring by taking one coil off the arbour did not pose any running issues.
Taken directly from the case on the day of purchase
However, once the cleaning and wear issues were addressed two other problems remained. The strike would not go into warning and the hammer did not move when the strike side was pushed to run.
It seems that whoever previously worked on it did not properly set up the strike side, likely neglecting to position the stop wheel correctly to ensure the strike mechanism would go into warning. Warning refers to a brief preparatory phase in the strike mechanism. This occurs just before the clock strikes. When the time approaches a strike point (such as the hour or half-hour), the movement enters the warning phase to prepare for the strike sequence. The warning phase is essential for ensuring the clock strikes consistently and on time. Improper setup of the warning phase can lead to the strike train failing to run.
While reassembling the movement, position the paddle lever in one of the indents on the cam while ensuring the paddle itself rests in a deep slot of the count wheel. The paddle should be straight into the deep slot without touching either side and pointed directly at the main wheel arbour.
The warning wheel can be adjusted after reassembly. Once all the wheels and levers are in their respective locations, carefully separate the plates slightly at the flywheel corner, ensuring no other components shift out of place. Then, when the pivot is out of its hole and the lantern pinion is disengaged from the adjacent gear, rotate the stop wheel until its pin meets the stop lever. If the levers are correctly positioned, the movement will enter the warning phase.
The stop wheel is at the upper right,with the pin
The second issue involved the hammer strike. A previous repairer had over-bent the strike rod, creating alignment problems. On the opposite side of the strike cam wheel are two striking pins, which the strike rod must reach to activate the hammer and sound the coiled gong. In this case, the rod had been positioned too close to the center, preventing it from contacting the strike pins. After some trial and error and careful bending of the strike rod, the movement is now properly aligned and able to sound the strike.
The final step is thorough testing. Placed on the test stand, the movement will be carefully monitored over the next several days to ensure everything functions smoothly and reliably.
A Special Note
I would also like to recognize Saint Valentine’s Day (February 14th) and I hope that everyone takes the time to cherish those around them, whether through a kind word, thoughtful gesture, or simply appreciating the moments that make life special. Happy Valentine’s Day!
For years, my Seth Thomas column and cornice clock rested atop an antique radio in our living room. However, after redecorating the space with hardwood flooring in place of the carpet, the radio and clock no longer suited the updated space.
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock
I did not want to relegate the clock to storage, so I opted to find it a new spot in our home. Since most of the other rooms already had plenty of clocks, I decided to display it in my office.
This lovely Seth Thomas time and strike eight-day weight-driven column and cornice clock with hour strike features an attractive veneer case with cove molded crest, lyre movement, three-quarter columns in painted gold, and two glass doors, one with a reverse painted design, opening to the interior clock works which reveal a tin painted dial and the original printed and illustrated Seth Thomas clock makers label. It is 32″ tall, 18″ wide and 5“ deep.
The dial had some losses
The clock has one unique detail: while the lower tablet is original, the upper tablet was recreated from a photograph of hanging fruit, modified to complement the design below. Additionally, the dial, which had suffered some losses in the corners and chapter ring, was repainted.
The painted tin Roman Numeral dial has hand-decorated flower spandrels in all four corners with the centre portion of the brass lyre movement visible through the dial.
Among collectors an appropriate descriptor for this clock is “column and cornice” but it is also generally classified as a shelf clock. This particular clock features a hook on the top of its case, likely intended by a past owner for installation that way. While I have seen similar clocks mounted like this online, they were never originally designed to be hung.
However, the hook might serve an additional purpose. Given that these clocks can become top-heavy when fully wound, the hook could be an effective way to secure the clock to a wall, especially in areas where it might be easily bumped.
Building the Shelf
The first step was to build a shelf to accommodate the clock. I had some leftover 8-inch-deep pine boards from a previous project, which were ideal for this purpose. I purchased extra pine braces some time ago, and they turned out to be perfect for completing the project. I cut a piece about 22 inches long and painted it a shade of beige. The base of the clock is 18 inches leaving 2 inches on either side.
Pine board and braces
The next step was to mount the braces to the wall. Knowing the room had studs spaced 16 inches apart, I used a stud finder to locate the first stud and then measured 16 inches to find the second one.
Sixteen inches on centre
Once the braces were mounted and made level I installed the shelf using wood screws.
The clock is positioned on the shelf
Checking for the Correct Beat
Now to determine if the shelf is level and the clock is in beat. Using a Timetrax Clock Timing Machine I switched to the BAL feature to check the beat.
Timetrax microphone attached to the winding arbour
A beat adjustment was unnecessary as the clock was already leveled. If leveling were needed, it would simply involve slightly bending the crutch incrementally to find the beat. While checking the beat can easily be done by ear, it made sense to use my Timetrax device for greater precision.
Timetrax Clock Timing Machine
According to the Timetrax instruction manual If the beat is within plus or minus 20 the clock is in beat. In this case, it was almost dead on.
Seth Thomas clock mounted on a shelf (note repainted dial)
Once the beat is confirmed, the weights are replaced, the hands and dial can be reattached, and the pendulum is given a slight push.
After confirming the beat the clock was ready to be displayed in its new spot. This Seth Thomas column and cornice clock, with its exquisite veneer case and distinctive features, now takes pride of place in my office, where it brings an added touch of elegance to the room. Moreover, since the room houses many spring-driven clocks, a weight-driven clock will provide a more accurate reference for timekeeping.
I’m pleased to have found a new location for it, as it truly deserves to be on display.
American clocks with double dials, often referred to as “double dial” or “two-dial” clocks, were common in the 19th century.
There are two categories of double-dial clocks but first, let’s talk about the calendar clock. These clocks typically have one dial for the time and another for the calendar. The reason for this design was to provide both timekeeping and a calendar function in a single device.
Seth Thomas 8-day office calendar 1895
By integrating both time and calendar functions into a single clock, manufacturers provided a practical solution for the needs of households and businesses.
Welch 5-day calendar clock 1880
Moreover, before the widespread adoption of standardized timekeeping systems, local time could vary significantly from one place to another. Having a clock that displayed both local time and the date helped people coordinate activities and synchronize their schedules more effectively.
Fashion (Southern Calendar Clock Co.) and Ithaca were well-known makers of quality shelf and wall calendar clocks. Seth Thomas was a significant producer of office calendar clocks.
Ithaca 30-day calendar clock 1866
Less common are double-dial clocks that exhibit two separate times. A typical two-dial clock of this type would display railroad time and local time or railroad time and city time.
Seth Thomas double time #17 special order clock
When the two major US railway companies adopted Standard Time in 1883 the Seth Thomas Company began the manufacture of 8-day weight-driven clocks with two time dials. The clocks would come with an upper and lower plaque depicting local time and railroad time. Some clocks were production clocks while others like the #17 were special order clocks.
Seth Thomas double time clock#6, a production clock
Both dials are run by one movement with a connecting drive shaft between the upper and lower units. Once the upper movement is set up, the lower unit will display the relative difference. Moving the hands on the upper unit moves the hands on the lower unit accordingly.
Upper movement and the lower unit are connected by a drive shaft
Examples of the more prevalent #6 can be readily found, whereas the specialized #17 is exceptionally rare. Regardless, acquiring either double-time model would entail a significant investment of thousands of dollars.
Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas between 1900 and 1938.
Seth Thomas mantel or shelf clock
The mantel clock in question features the Type 89 movement. Acquired in the summer of 2023, this clock boasts a simple and straightforward design.
The focus then shifted to the disassembly process and my examination of the widely-used Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement.
My observations highlighted a replaced mainspring on the strike side, the necessity for bushing work, and indications of rust, all of which posed challenges that I committed to addressing in subsequent stages such as cleaning, bushing, oiling, and reassembly.
The focus of this blog post is the completion of servicing of this type 89 clock movement.
Front of the type 89 movementbefore disassembly
Cleaning of the mainsprings
There is always the temptation to do nothing with the mainsprings if they look acceptable. However, cleaning the mainsprings is an essential part of clock servicing. Uncoiling and wiping the dirt and grime from the mainsprings with a cloth is the preferred method, but cleaning them with an ultrasonic cleaner is also an option.
In Part I, I cleaned the mainsprings in my ultrasonic cleaner and provided a rationale for this decision. Before I go any further, I’d like to emphasize a crucial point regarding the cleaning of mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner. This practice is not recommended and should only be considered as a last resort.
While cleaning mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner has little impact on the surfaces or mechanism of the cleaner itself the oil removed from the mainsprings generates a black liquid that contaminates the cleaning solution, rendering it ineffective for future use.
Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right
Clamps have been applied to secure the mainsprings after oiling, and they’ve been set aside. Now, we move on to the next step: the bushing phase.
Backplate removed
Bushing the movement
As the movement is fully disassembled this is the stage where bushing work can be done. I commend individuals who choose to bush by hand, but personally, It is not for me.
Various systems exist for bushing, with KWM and Bergeon being the two most widely adopted. It’s worth noting that neither system is inherently superior to the other, as preferences tend to vary among enthusiasts. When referring to a “system,” it’s important to understand that the bushings from one system are not interchangeable with those from the other.
That said I use the Bergeon system.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
Before bushing, I identify all the locations requiring attention and mark them with a Sharpie. There is no permanent mark as rubbing alcohol will easily remove all traces of ink.
I have an excellent assortment of bushings and have all the required ones for this project.
An assortment of Bergeon bushings, #5488
Using cutters each hole is drilled out and chamfered, that is, removing the sharp edges to allow the pushings to be pressed in smoothly. As I insert each new bushing I test the fit by assembling the wheels to check how freely they move. This allows me to make small adjustments in the event the pivot is too tight in the bushing hole.
Cutting into a brass plate
Based on my initial assessment, the bushings for both the front and back plates of the escape wheel were the most worn. The next new bushing is the fourth wheel front plate, the one adjacent to the escape wheel. After three bushings everything looks good and the wear further down the train does not look too bad. A fourth bushing for the fourth wheel should be enough.
A cutting broach is used to enlarge any holes that are a tight fit for a pivot followed by a smoothing broach. To prepare for the wheels to go back in place all bushing holes are cleaned with pegs/toothpicks.
Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process
In the photo above, the plates and gears look shinier after a session with the ultrasonic cleaner. However, it’s important to note that the main goal in clock repair isn’t to make everything as shiny as possible. The focus is on reducing wear and tear. Some dirt and grime on the plates might not come off completely during the cleaning process in every case and it is not something the clock repairer should be overly concerned with.
Back to bushing. There is a little bit of play on the second and third wheels but it is tolerable so, I think I will stop at this point.
Punching a bushing into the plate
Were I in the clock repair business I would bush everything on the time train, or the entire movement for that matter, but since I usually inspect movements in my collection every 2-3 years I can address any additional wear at that time.
On to the strike train. In the first article, I mentioned that there was not much wear on the strike side which might be attributable to that side not being wound as often. The only hole that must be addressed is the cam wheel bushing on the front plate. Why this bushing hole is worn much worse than the others is a bit of a mystery.
Okay, all the work is done for a total of five new Bergeon bushings. The holes have been pegged, and the movement is now ready to be reassembled.
The one hiccup encountered during the bushing process was the malfunction of my caliper tool. Fortunately, this isn’t a major problem, as all the Bergeon bushings are uniform at 3.5mm outside diameter, with inside diameters of either 1.4mm or 1.5mm so I knew what size to grab first.
Reassembly
When dealing with American 8-day time and strike movements, there are challenges in configuring the strike mechanism accurately. Occasionally, luck is on my side, and I manage to place the paddle in the deep slot, position the lever in the lowest part of the cam wheel, and align the warning wheel just right on the first attempt.
A useful tip. If the lever is in the lower part of the cam wheel and the paddle is not in the deep slot, simply move the toothed count wheel sideways so that it does not engage the pinon and reposition the wheel till the paddle finds the deep slot.
No luck setting up the strike this time! If the strike train does not lock correctly it will simply keep on running and you will know that soon enough.
The plates can be partially pried open without the risk of all the wheels and levers springing out. Repositioning the warning wheel involves moving the fly aside, carefully extracting the 4th wheel from its pivot hole, and rotating it a quarter turn or so to ensure the warning pin aligns with the stop lever.
Seth Thomas movement on the test stand
A minor issue with the hammer lever surfaced as it was not aligning correctly with the strike pins on the cam wheel. No disassembly of the movement is required for this adjustment. Simply loosen the bottom two nuts by the mainsprings, and the strike hammer can be removed to straighten it. After having been bent multiple times over the years, straightening it out resolved the issue.
Next, the movement is oiled with Keystone clock pivot oil and mounted on a test stand. After a week it is running and striking as it should.
And lastly, my new caliper arrived just as I was concluding the servicing on this clock.
Addendum
To properly configure the strike side, pay attention to the positioning of the levers as pointed out by the arrows.
ST movement
In the above photo, the lower arrow shows the paddle in the deep slot, and the upper arrow shows the drop lever in the indent of the cam.
Seth Thomas movement
The upper arrow shows the position of the stop pin on the stop wheel. The lower arrow shows the locking lever.
Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas over the years. This type was made between 1900 and 1938.
I acquired this mantel clock during the summer of 2023. From a distance, it looked very good but upon closer inspection what I thought was a rosewood veneer finish was in fact, a thin wrapper, so a bit of a disappointment.
The simple lines of this clock was the main attraction
However, the focus of this blog post is not the clock’s case but the ubiquitous type 89 clock movement found within that made its way into thousands of Seth Thomas clocks.
Disassembly
The first step is to remove the hour and minute hands. Working from the back, four case screws release the movement from its case. Things will go along more smoothly if the coiled gong is removed as well.
Looking at the back plate, the suspension spring and rod must be removed first. Then comes the regulating adjustments screw and rod which consists of releasing 3 machine screws and then pulling out the spline gear which is operated through the clock face by the small end of a double-ended winding key. Once that hardware is removed it is on to the removal of the back plate.
Aview of the movement
There are 4 nuts (plus the pendulum rod retainer screw) to be removed, however, it is advisable to unhook the helper spring at the top and the hammer spring at the bottom before lifting up the plate. This will prevent the wheels from being dislodged as the back plate is removed.
If the wheels spring out, reassembling the wheels becomes a challenging task of guesswork to determine their correct locations, especially for beginners.
Brass helper spring hooked around a post
As each part is removed place them in a hobby tray or receptacle so that nothing will be lost or misplaced. No matter what the skill level, separating the time side gears from the strike side is always a good practice.
Findings
Upon lifting the back plate, my initial observation was the replacement of the mainspring on the strike side at some point in the clock’s life.
Whenever I encounter a replaced mainspring, my immediate focus shifts to inspecting potential damage to the main wheel teeth and the lantern pinions in the second and third wheels. This is because the force of a break occasionally causes secondary damage along the gear train. This is often referred to as collateral damage. Fortunately, the components up the train in this movement are undamaged.
Backplate removed
An initial inspection of wear indicates a need for five new bushings on the time side, while only one is necessary on the strike side. Further examination may reveal more once a more detailed assessment is conducted.
Interestingly, the strike side shows less wear, indicating that it was seldom wound. My assumption is that after the repair of the mainspring, the owner decided it wasn’t worth the risk of another mainspring break and chose not to wind it frequently or at all.
More concerning is evidence of rust on the movement posts, some pivots, and the lantern pinions. The clock was obviously stored in a humid location for a period.
Mainsprings
All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner and thoroughly dried.
Despite my best efforts, I could not separate the main wheels from the mainsprings. I opted to place both the wheel and mainspring in the ultrasonic cleaner. This is not a typical practice for me as it dirties the cleaning solution and limits resue, but I intend to dispose of the cleaning solution after this servicing.
Ultrasonic cleaner
That’s all for now
Despite encountering disappointment in the clock’s case, the disassembly and findings of the ubiquitous Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement revealed a replaced mainspring on the strike side, a need for bushing work, and evidence of rust, presenting challenges that will be addressed in the upcoming stages of cleaning, bushing work, oiling, and reassembly.
I will conclude here and save the remaining details of the servicing for a subsequent post.
The Seth Thomas Clock Company, renowned for its long history dating back to the early 19th century, produced a variety of clock movements over the years, and among them is the Type 89 movement found in this clock.
Despite the absence of a specific year stamp, the clock’s design and construction suggest a manufacturing date in the mid to late 1930s. Upon initial inspection, it was evident that the clock was not functioning, a common issue with old clocks that have not run in years.
From afar the wood finish is striking
Typically, clock movements face challenges related to low power output caused by wear and tear over time. The gradual deterioration of clocks during years of operation is often attributed to factors such as dirt accumulation, inadequate lubrication, and the lack of proper adjustments.
Although dirt accumulation can persist in a movement, causing friction and wear, I decided to see if I could get the clock to run. The process involved removing the hour and minute hands, releasing four screws securing the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.
Type 89 movement
An initial inspection revealed no visible issues with either the time or the strike side. Both mainsprings were found to be wound tight and seemingly ceased, likely due to the accumulation of glue-like dirt between the coils that will prevent the clock from running.
Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement
To reduce tension on the mainsprings and provide the necessary energy for the clock to start running, an unwinding of the mainspring was performed using a let-down set. Oil was also applied to the pivots, as a temporary solution. Mixing new and old oil is never a good idea as a harmful abrasive paste is produced that could accelerate wear on the pivots and bushing holes. The plan, therefore, was not to run the clock for an extended period but merely to see if it could run.
While relaxing the mainsprings enabled the movement to run strongly, an issue persisted on the strike side, necessitating further investigation. Despite this, no major issues were anticipated, and the next steps will involve disassembly, thorough cleaning, any remediation, reassembly, and testing.
But first, let’s look at the case.
The case
This clock caught my eye at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, Canada, primarily due to its attractive appearance with what seemed to be rosewood veneer. Intrigued and encouraged by the reputable Seth Thomas trademark, I decided to make the purchase, especially given the appealing price.
However, upon closer inspection at home, I discovered that what I initially believed to be genuine rosewood was actually a thin layer of faux wood wrapping, and to my disappointment, some of it was peeling off in a couple of very visible areas, the worst by the bezel catch.
The worn and peeling section is adjacent to the bezel catch
There might be speculation about whether the movement was reinstalled in a newer case, but my inclination is that this is how it originally left the factory. What the Seth Thomas company might have considered new and improved and would likely fool most consumers was but a cheap imitation.
It is clearly a cost-cutting measure rather than a later modification. Many clock companies faced financial difficulties during the Depression Years of the 1930s, leading them to seek cost-saving measures but honestly, this discovery is rather disheartening.
Nevertheless, the clock holds value because of the movement, which still has many years left. Join me later as we dismantle the clock movement and address any required repairs.
Dropping in Facebook Marketplace from time to time is interesting because there’s always the possibility that an unknowing seller might list an antique clock without realizing its true value. Occasionally, I strike gold, however, the majority of listings mainly feature commonplace antique clocks, alongside an overwhelming abundance of quartz-driven ones.
Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock
On any typical day, it’s a common occurrence for me to find more than half a dozen 31-day clocks available for sale.
What is a 31-day clock
A 31-day clock is a type of mechanical clock that runs for about a month before it needs to be wound up again. It has a pendulum that swings back and forth to regulate the time. The name 31-day clock comes from the fact that it can operate for 31 days without stopping, but some clocks may run for a few days more or less depending on their level of wear.
A Chinese-made 31-day clockconverted to a quartz movement
A significant number of these clocks are designed as spring-driven time-and-strike models, meaning they strike every half-hour announcing the time on the hour.
Most 31-day clocks originate from China or Korea, with trade names such as Citizen (not to be confused with the watch company), Daniel Dakota, Alaron, Olympia, Sabre, Beacon, and well, the list goes on. Directional arrows near the winding arbours typically give away the origin of the clock, with a common association being Chinese or Korean manufacture.
The hallmark features of a 31-day movement are powerful mainsprings and thin plates
Acquiring a vintage 31-day wall clock manufactured in China or Korea will not set you back very much. These clocks were and still are widely available since they were produced in massive quantities during the 1960s through to the 1980s. It is a safe bet that a vast majority, around 99%, have never seen the inside of a clock repair shop. Their inexpensive movements appear remarkably resilient, enduring for long periods and finally meeting an unceremonious end in the trash or, popping up on online for-sale sites such as Facebook Marketplace.
Clockmakers typically prefer to avoid servicing these clocks and may encourage you to swap out the mechanical movement for a quartz one if the clock is not functioning. This is primarily due to the powerful and potentially hazardous mainsprings in 31-day clocks, which make working on them a risky task. Secondly, these clocks have such low value that any maintenance, even basic oiling, will cost many times more than the clock is actually worth. Thirdly, replacement parts are impossible to find and any repairs necessitate salvaging components from similar movements. Indeed, converting them to quartz movements is not such a bad idea.
The Distinction Between 31-day and 30-day clock
31-day clocks should not be confused with antique 30-day clocks, such as those produced over a century ago by companies like Seth Thomas, Welch, Waterbury, and makers of 30-day Vienna Regulators.
The latter boasted sturdy movements with deadbeat escapements, large cases, and dials, and a significant number were powered by weights. These clocks were more accurate than the average domestic clock of the time and were often found in public places such as post offices, libraries, business offices, retail establishments, and factories. Unlike 31-day clocks, collectors find these clocks desirable.
If you are fortunate enough to come across a 31-day clock at a remarkably low price, it’s important to temper expectations regarding its resale value. Despite being budget-friendly acquisitions, these clocks typically don’t appreciate significantly in value, and it’s wise to view them more as charming additions to your collection rather than lucrative investments.
In 2018, while exploring Ontario (Canada), I came across a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 in an antique shop in Bloomfield, just a short drive from Picton, a prominent center in Prince Edward County known for its numerous wineries.
I had my eye on this clock when I viewed it online over the summer and carefully contemplated the purchase before finally acquiring it in the fall of 2018. These clocks are somewhat rare to find, but the price was reasonable, and the clock itself was in very good condition.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was recognizable at one time as one of the most commonly seen regulator clocks in America. It graced many railway stations across both the US and Canada throughout the last century, a testament to its accuracy and reliability. It is a sturdy, precise, well-crafted timepiece that Seth Thomas produced from 1860 to 1950, an impressive 90-year production run. Few clocks can boast such longevity, making it an iconic American clock that every serious clock collector desires.
The design of the #2 remained largely unchanged over the years, but certain design characteristics can help in dating a specific clock. The identification guide below outlines characteristics of the dial and case that assist in estimating the year of manufacture. A clock colleague cautioned me against placing excessive trust in the chart, but I am satisfied with using rough estimates.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 ID chart
With the exception of its distinctive base, most #2s produced after the earliest versions had the pendulum mounted in the rear. The chart also mentions a limited reissue in 1976. While the reissue is well-crafted and aesthetically pleasing, most Seth Thomas enthusiasts would argue that it doesn’t quite compare to an authentic Regulator #2, and the prices for these versions reflect that sentiment. Nevertheless, those who own the reissue appear to be satisfied with their acquisition.
According to the chart, my clock was likely made between 1922 and 1929. It features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2, Arabic numerals, and spade hands. The bow tie connecting the wood dial bezel and the drop is a single piece (earlier versions had a three-piece bow tie). The clock has a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon, but it’s not a true second hand; it runs off the escapement, taking 80 beats to complete a “minute.” Standing at 36 ½ inches tall, it’s veneered in mahogany.
The bottom right of the movement bears the stamp “77A” with the letter “K” beneath it, although it lacks other distinctive markings. Unlike some versions of the 77 movement that have lantern pinions, this one has cut pinions. Whether one type of pinion is better than the other is open to debate.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 showing some marks on the face
As with any item nearly 100 years old, there were some issues with the clock. There is minor scuffing on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster, and paint splatter on the top of the case (though not visible from most any angle). Taking down a clock while painting a room is a simple decision in my view, but some individuals prefer painting around it.
I transported this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car, and removing the pendulum for transportation is not a straightforward process. If you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock, this one is similar. Removing the weight is as simple as unhooking it from the cable wheel. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement, and both the weight and movement must be removed to access the pendulum since the pendulum must be removed for transport.
Seth Thomas #2 movement in place
The steps to remove the pendulum are as follows. First, the clock hands are removed. The minute hand is secured with a nut, which must be released. The second hand is a friction fit and can be pulled straight off.
There are eight small screws holding the dial in place. Once the dial is off, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail can be removed to access the movement. Four cylindrical column posts secure the movement in place; unscrewing them, starting with the bottom two, allows the movement to be lifted/pulled out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.
The trapezoid 77A movement in this clock appeared clean when I first opened the case. There were signs of previous work, such as punch marks around some pivot holes, a common practice frowned upon today. The deadbeat escapement was in good condition and did not require adjustment. Otherwise, the movement looked to be in very good condition.
Seth Thomas #2 with escapement removed. Observe the numerous punch marks
Getting the clock to run reliably presented a challenge, and it took about a week to troubleshoot and resolve the issue. It eventually became clear that the issue lay in the positioning of the hands with the second hand obstructing the hour hand. I remounted the dial ensuring there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the hour hand and it ran smoothly thereafter.
Regulating the clock is a relatively straightforward process, achieved by adjusting the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and properly aligned to function correctly.
Time for servicing
In the spring of 2021, the clock began to stop intermittently. It would operate for 5-10 minutes before coming to a halt. I had replaced the suspension spring two weeks earlier and thought I had addressed the issue but clearly, I had not.
Seth Thomas #2 suspension spring
The clock’s apparent simplicity masks the tight tolerances it requires, and any signs of wear have the potential to cause the clock to cease functioning. Despite being a time-only movement with few gears I do not believe this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.
I installed three bushings on the back plate; the second, and third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.
Seth Thomas #2 movement
At the time I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.
While the movement was out of the case I replaced the maintaining power spring. I’m unsure if I’ve resolved the clunking sound the clock produced when I wound it previously because I now must turn the key crank in the opposite direction for a quarter turn to adjust the maintaining spring to avoid the clunk.
I also replaced the old cable with a 3/64-inch brass-weight cable. One aspect of the brass cable that I particularly appreciate is its nylon core, which prevents it from coiling. Polishing the pendulum bob and weight enhanced its overall appearance.
Since 2021 it has been running very well and keeping accurate time.
While these clocks were constructed robustly and designed for demanding environments, running for extended periods without the need for maintenance, there is still a requirement for periodic servicing. When I obtained the clock, it quite likely had gone without servicing for a considerable duration, and the maintenance performed in 2021 was certainly long overdue.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
Still, I am happy with the purchase of this clock. At present, it adorns the front hallway of our home, adding a touch of elegance to the entrance.
This clock is a splendid addition to our home’s front entrance, with a rich and storied history. While its exact whereabouts over the past 100 years remains a mystery, it remains a remarkable clock.
Why does a mechanical clock movement require servicing? The answer is quite straightforward. Maintaining your clock’s movement is essential to ensure it continues to function properly and extends its lifespan.
Regular servicing reduces wear and tear, ultimately preserving the clock’s functionality. Ideally, most clocks should undergo servicing every three to five years to maximize longevity.
Seth Thomas mantel clock C.1930
This article outlines the seven steps I typically follow when servicing an antique or vintage clock movement, using a common American, pendulum-driven movement as an example, Seth Thomas’s Type 86 8-day time and strike movement.
Step 1 – Initial Assessment: Upon receiving a clock, my first task is to determine if it runs. I assess whether it runs and strikes correctly and completes its full 8-day cycle. If it operates for fewer than 8 days, there may be an underlying power problem, which could stem from various factors like weakened mainsprings, worn bushing holes, bent arbours, and so on but more often than not a good cleaning will improve its run time even if there is some wear in the movement.
The movement is mounted to the front of the clock
Step 2 – Addressing non-running clocks: When the clock does not run, I conduct an examination to identify potential issues such as missing or broken components, bent wheel assemblies, and arbours, damaged or worn gear teeth, worn pinions, snapped mainsprings, and broken or broken clicks along with any missing parts like suspension springs or pendulum bobs.
Nevertheless, when all components are intact and the mainsprings appear to be in good condition, I take measures to ensure the clock is properly adjusted for an even beat.
I’ve observed that on many occasions, the mainsprings are wound tightly, and relieving this tension tends to address the problem (albeit temporarily), allowing the clock to operate relatively smoothly. However, if it stops running soon after starting, I note the problem areas and set it aside for servicing.
Step 3 – Disassembly and assessment: After removing the hands, dial face, and taking the movement out of the case (4 screws hold the type 86 in place), I conduct a thorough visual inspection. This step involves checking for damage, dirt, and excess oil, and determining the extent of cleaning required.
Type 86 time and strike movement
I use retaining clamps to safely secure the mainsprings’ power and then proceed with disassembling the movement. Disassembly includes removing outboard parts such as the crutch and suspension rod, releasing the four or five bolts holding the plates in place, and proceeding to remove the wheels and levers.
I assess wear in various areas, including pinions, pivot holes, arbor conditions, and connections between plates and pillars. I also look for tool marks and indications of previous servicing.
Step 4 – Cleaning the parts: Cleaning the clock movement parts is crucial, and I prefer using an ultrasonic cleaner. I use a mildalkaline, biodegradable degreaserconcentrate for cleaning. I organize the parts in compartments for easy identification, with strike parts separated from time-side parts.
Deox 007 is a concentrate.
For open-loop mainsprings such as the type 86, I detach them from the main wheel before cleaning. To guarantee that the mainwheels and springs are reinstalled in their original spots, I mark them with either “T” or “S” for clear identification.
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Drying the parts promptly is vital to prevent rust formation. I use shop towels and a portable hair dryer to ensure all areas are dry. Lantern pinions tend to be especially difficult to dry and a hair dryer is an ideal tool to remove excess water.
After cleaning, I inspect the cleaning solution and, if suitable, reuse it.
Step 5 – Polishing pivots: The next step involves polishing the pivots. If the pivots are in good condition, a few passes with an emery board are sufficient. A small metal lathe is ideal but a portable drill will do.
Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor
For pitted pivots, more aggressive cleaning and polishing may be necessary, and in extreme cases, pivot replacement may be required. Cleaning and wiping the pivots with a soft cloth is essential, followed by bushing if needed.
Step 6 – Bushing, broaching, and pegging pivot holes: I determine which pivot holes need bushing by assessing lateral pivot movement and marking each one (with a black marker) to be bushed.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
I use a Bergeon bushing machine known for its precise work. After making the bush hole, I clean it from chips and burrs, followed by broaching if necessary. In the process, bothcutting and smoothing broaches are used to ensure an optimum fit.
A hole is enlarged with acutter to accommodate a new bushing
All pivot holes are pegged with toothpicks until no residue remains.
Step 7 – Making necessary repairs: Other potential repairs include re-pivoting, straightening or replacing wheel teeth, sourcing parts, making new parts, and addressing issues with worn lantern pinions and escapement components.
Step 8 – Reassembly, testing, and adjustment: Finally, I reassemble the clock movement, carefully securing the gears and levers in place. I use a pivot locator to move the pivots to their correct location. Once reassembled, the movement goes through a testing process and adjustment on a test stand, ensuring it is in beat and properly regulated. This testing phase can take up to a month before returning the movement to its case.
A movement on a test stand. Attached is a microphone for a beat amplifier
In conclusion, servicing antique or vintage clocks significantly extends their lifespan. These seven steps provide a general guideline for clock movement servicing, though some steps may require further explanation, and individual procedures may vary among clockmakers.
The Seth Thomas Clock Company is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history dating back to the early 19th century. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas over the years. This type was made between 1900 and 1938.
This is a first look at the movement of a Seth Thomas time and strike mantel clock with a type 89 movement. Since there is no year stamp on the clock movement I am surmising that this clock was manufactured in the mid to late 1930s judging from its design and construction.
Discovered at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, the clock was not functioning initially.
Generally speaking, a clock movement faces issues with low power output caused by friction resulting from wear over time. The primary issue with aging clocks is their gradual deterioration due to extended periods of operation. Common culprits are dirt accumulation, insufficient lubrication, and lack of proper adjustments, although these are unlikely to be the reasons for the malfunction.
Interestingly, a dirty movement often continues to function even without lubrication if it’s in decent condition. There is no doubt that this movement requires bushing work to address accelerated wear, yet regrettably, I do not currently have access to the necessary bushing tools for the task as I am on holiday.
Despite the accumulation of grime, and potential wear-related concerns, I opted to put the movement into action, primarily with the goal of uncovering underlying issues. Doing this required removing the hour and minute hands, releasing 4 screws holding the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.
Once on the work bench an initial inspection of the movement did not reveal any obvious issues with either the time or the strike side, so, it was safe to proceed further. When found both mainsprings on this time and strike movement were wound tight and appeared ceased likely as a result of the build-up of glue-like dirt between the coils of the mainsprings.
I have found that in some cases gently unwinding the coils of mainsprings with a let-down set can often relieve enough tension to provide a clock with the necessary energy to start running but there was one more step in the process.
A letdown set is required in order to release the mainsprings
Although there was a noticeable amount of dirt around the pivots, I applied oil to each one. However, it’s important to be cautious about mixing new and old oil, as their interaction can result in the formation of a harmful abrasive paste, which can speed up wear on both the pivots and the bushing holes.
Thus, while oiling a dirty movement is a temporary solution, it’s not a replacement for proper disassembly, thorough cleaning, and addressing wear issues.
As a result of releasing the mainspring, oiling the pivots, and putting the movement in beat, it now runs strongly. However, there is something amiss with the strike side and further investigation is required. Despite this, I am not anticipating major issues with this movement.
The next step is disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and testing. Should it require bushing work, that step will have to wait a while longer.
I have every confidence that this movement will run very well once serviced.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.
DS writes
Morning, Ron –
I’ve wanted to let you know how much I’ve enjoyed these blog posts.
What a nice work area you have there, too.
I’ve had my eyes on a marvelous Wm. Van Tassel sleigh-front, or “Triple Decker” Seth Thomas manufactured for the Canadian market for some time. I’ve been fascinated with these old clocks for many years, and in particular the triple-deckers. I’ll attach an image or two of the Van Tassel I’m interested in. It is perhaps the finest sleigh-front I’ve ever seen, in terms of condition & originality.
I only have a modest collection of some cottage clocks of the various Connecticut makers, and several “Ogees.” My only real “Problem” is finding time enough to spend with them!
Thanks again for these interesting, well-written articles.
Take care…
Wm. Van Tassel sleigh-front
I write
Thanks for your email, DS
That is a very nice clock. Some would call it a column and cornice but as you said often referred to as a triple-decker. I like the two-door feature. I have a similar Seth Thomas. My only thought is whether or not the tablets (or at least one of them ) are original. The cornice and the base are often beat up with wear and tear and it is nice to see one so unmolested. It is a clock I would take a serious look at.
As an avid antique shopper, I understand the thrill of finding a unique and valuable item, especially at a reasonable price. However, on my recent visit to a local antique shop, I found items priced far above their actual value, which was a disappointment.
I expect antique store prices to be slightly higher to cover overhead costs and ensure a decent profit margin, but in some cases, the prices can be unreasonably high. When I frequent an antique store and see the same items over and over should that not be a clear message to the seller that their prices are higher than they should be?
In this article, I would like to offer some tips for antique shop proprietors to help create a positive and profitable experience for all.
Tip 1 – do price aggressively
Antique shop proprietors face the challenge of balancing profitability with the need to maintain a diverse and appealing inventory. While it is tempting to hold on to high-value items and wait for the right buyer to come along, this approach can lead to stagnation in inventory and reduced sales volume.
To succeed in the antique business, proprietors should price their items aggressively to move inventory quickly. This approach ensures that the shop always has fresh, appealing items for customers to browse and purchase. A high volume of sales generates positive word-of-mouth advertising and repeat business.
Being knowledgeable about the values of items is crucial to pricing them accordingly. Proprietors should stay up-to-date on the latest trends in the antique market and be able to accurately assess the value of their inventory. This knowledge enables them to price items competitively while still making a reasonable profit.
Proprietors must strike a balance between pricing items aggressively and ensuring that they are not undervaluing their inventory.
Antique store find – Seth Thomas Adamantine C.1900
Tip 2 – price appropriately
Antique shop proprietors are not experts in every facet of the antique world but they should have a good understanding of the value and condition of the items they are selling in order to price them appropriately and provide accurate information to potential buyers.
In some cases, I have found that antique shop owners are not up-to-date with the current market prices of antique and vintage clocks which can lead to them overpricing their inventory and potentially losing out on sales.
Regularly educating themselves on the values of items they are selling ensures they are pricing their inventory competitively and staying relevant in the antique market.
Tip 3 – Is the customer always right?
Is the customer always right? Not always but listening to customers’ explanations for why they believe the price should be lower can lead to a successful negotiation and potentially repeat business. If customers appear knowledgeable about the item, proprietors should be prepared to give a little on the price. Proprietors that are steadfast on pricing may risk losing potential customers who are looking for a good deal or feel that they are being overcharged.
Inflexibility in pricing can also create a negative perception of the business and its customer service, leading to reduced customer loyalty and potentially negative reviews.
If I encounter pricing resistance while shopping, I may choose to discontinue my shopping.
Tip 4 – staging iskey to the presentation
Presentation of merchandise is everything. Thoughtful placement and a well-curated display can make all the difference in attracting potential buyers.
Thoughtful placement can involve creating an attractive and visually pleasing display that highlights the unique features of each item by grouping similar items together making it easier for customers to find what they are looking for and can also help create a cohesive display.
Antique store find – Gilbert Admiral calendar clockC. 1900
Good lighting can make a big difference in how items are perceived by customers. Good lighting highlights the unique features of each item and creates an inviting atmosphere.
Creating a specific theme or style can help customers envision how items might look in their own homes.
Using height to advantage by placing items on shelves or pedestals at different heights. This can create visual interest and make it easier for customers to see everything that is available.
Antique store find – Lexington banjo clock C. 1927
While it can be tempting to try to cram as many items as possible into a small space, this can actually be overwhelming for customers. Make sure there is enough space between items so that customers can see everything clearly.
Keep things fresh by rotating your inventory regularly. This can help regular customers see new items and also create a sense of urgency for customers to purchase items they might not see again. Rotation will also encourage customers to return to your store.
Overall, thoughtful placement is about creating an environment that is visually appealing and easy for customers to navigate.
Tip 5 – stay up to date
Antique shop proprietors should not only keep themselves updated on the current market value of items but also be aware of any trends or changes in demand. This will help them adjust their pricing strategy accordingly to attract more customers and increase sales. It is also essential to have a good understanding of the condition of the items they sell, as this can significantly impact the value. For instance, a clock that is in pristine condition will be worth more than one that is damaged or has missing parts.
Antique store find – Seth Thomas column and cornice clock C.1875
Proprietors can also consider offering special deals or deep discounts to customers to attract more sales. This can include bundle deals, clearance sales, or discounts for frequent customers.
They can leverage the power of social media and online marketplaces to reach a broader audience and increase sales. By having a strong online presence, they can showcase their unique inventory and reach customers who may not have otherwise found their store.
Customers will ultimately vote with their feet
Customers know they can walk away from a price that is too high. There are many antique stores to choose from, and finding one that values its customers and its inventory is worth the search. Providing fair and reasonable prices can not only attract customers but also build a loyal customer base for an antique store.
Finally
By using these tips, antique store owners can create a shopping experience that is both enjoyable and profitable. With knowledge, negotiation skills, and thoughtful presentation, the world of antiques can be an exciting and rewarding one for proprietors and customers alike.
Ah, the days when clock companies put a little time and effort into their designs. The Seth Thomas company, in its heyday, produced many attractive clocks and this eight-day shelf clock is one of the finest examples of the 1870s.
Seth Thomas round top
It is a rather large round top shelf clock measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches wide at the base, and 4 inches deep. The attractive Rosewood veneered case has a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. I have seen some with clear glass but I believe the original design called for mirrored glass.
The grain is bold and striking. A sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock position of the bezel which was missing when I bought the clock in 2019 has been repaired.
Veneer missing – before the repair
And after the veneer repair.
After veneer repair
Unique stylized hands with “S” on the minute hand and “T” on the hour hand give the clock the look of distinction.
A characteristic feature of the clock is a very attractive lyre 8-day Plymouth time and strike spring-driven movement on a bell gong with alarm. It looks like it is literally stuffed into the case but once the wood dial mount is removed it reveals just enough operating space for this movement which was obviously designed to be placed in a large variety of clock cases.
Side view of the caseTop view
The movement is die stamped “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.”. It is fitted with Geneva stops (stop-works) to improve timekeeping. It is nice to see stop works on clocks since they are often missing.
The plates are held together with taper pins rather than screws. The alarm mechanism is located just below the movement and to the left with the alarm adjustment wheel on the center cannon as was common in those days. Both the alarm and the movement strike an iron bell gong. The movement is mounted on the back of the case by means of wooden blocks top and bottom.
Back panel
To remove the movement from its case the rear panel must be unscrewed.
A good label is affixed inside the case and at the top, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. The label is largely intact save for a small piece missing in the lower right corner and slight water staining on the bottom quarter.
Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful clocks in my collection.
I have been collecting clocks for over twenty years and for the past 11 years I have been building my collection of vintage and antique clocks, repairing them, and restoring them.
I often reflect back to that first “real” antique clock that my wife and I purchased at an antique store in Blockhouse, Nova Scotia in the fall of 2000. Blockhouse is about 2 hours from our home and during our Saturday excursion in the area, we stopped at various craft and antique stores to see what we could find.
The store is long gone but I remember the day we browsed through the store, looked at several antique clocks, and decided upon a Seth Thomas mantel clock.
The first photo of the clock was taken in December 2000
At the time we thought we were happy with the price we paid though as my knowledge of antique clocks grew I discovered that we paid far more than what it was worth. Still, no regrets.
It sat on an old Willis upright piano for a number of years and since then it has moved to our dining room where it is on prominent display.
The clock in 2016
The clock is an 8-day Seth Thomas time and strike. It is in an ebony case with adamantine features. These clocks are known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. The date on this clock is 1907.
Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case.
Type 89 time and strike movement
The movement had to be cleaned but it was in surprisingly good condition with one issue, a stripped regulating gear. Because the gear is stripped the clock cannot be regulated by inserting the small end of a 2-ended key into the front dial. However, it has an adjustable pendulum and I will stick with that until I find a donor movement.
Regulating gear cannot be saved
We ran it for a number of years until 2016 when I took the clock apart, cleaned it, and installed 4 new bushings.
It is not a clock that I keep running continuously but every month or so I wind it up and run it since antique clocks need to be “exercised” occasionally.
The clock todaywith gold scrolling restored
Given its sentimental value, it will stay in my collection.
In our quest to have our antique mechanical clocks run accurately the immediate response is to regulate the clock, but have you thought about calibrating your mechanical clock? It is not as difficult as it sounds.
This is not the same as regulating your clock. A properly regulated Anerican-made spring-driven clock will show the correct time at the beginning of the week but will run fast through the week and may gain as much as 3 or 4 minutes mid-week and lose time at the end of the week.
Seth Thomas spring driven round top 8-day clock
Let’s use a spring-driven mantel clock with an 8-day cycle for our example.
Mainsprings release their peak power at the beginning of their cycle. As the mainspring winds down power is gradually released until the spring unwinds completely and the clock stops.
Gilbert spring driven wall clock
On some antique clocks, one might find “stop works” (otherwise called a Geneva stop) which is a clever star-shaped brass add-on to the main wheel that reduces the full release of power initially by flattening the mainspring’s power curve over its rated cycle (8-days) and thus maintain some level of accuracy through the week.
Geneva stops as indicated by the white arrows
But most clocks I have come across don’t have this ingenious device.
Weight-driven clocks are a different kettle of fish because the release of power is constant throughout the week. Once a weight-driven clock is regulated it should not require calibration.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator with weights
Calibration makes the assumption that your spring-driven clock will never accurately tell the time at any one given point in its cycle and essentially means setting your clock so that it loses no more than a couple of minutes at any given time through the week.
Sessions mainsprings, one for the time train and the other for the strike train
According to the Canadian Oxford dictionary to calibrate means “to correlate readings of an instrument with a standard”. If the standard is plus or minus two minutes per week, without the use of “stops” or other means to flatten the power curve, setting the clock two minutes slow at the beginning of the week will ensure that it is never off by more than a minute or two through the week.
According to noted horologist Robert H. Croswell, “If the clock is regulated such that it has a zero net gain or loss of time from the start to the end of the week, then take ½ the maximum fast error during the week and set the clock that many minutes “slow” when the clock is wound.” If the maximum is 6 minutes, then, half would be three minutes.
One could use a complex mathematical formula to determine the precise amount of time to set the clock at the beginning of the week but setting it two minutes slow for a clock that loses 4 minutes each week should suffice for most purposes.
I have had my eye a clock timing machine for a while but I was recently encouraged to accelerate my plan to buy one. My Timetrax model 50 beat amplifier stopped running for some reason. Okay, I dropped it and it made a strange rattling noise when I picked it up. Now it doesn’t work!
Model 50 beat amplifier, now broken
Do I need a timer? Up to now, I got along fine without it and generally speaking anyone repairing clocks can certainly get by without one. But I can now see that this little device can be quite practical and can save a lot of time and frustration.
Timetrax model 185
What does it do?
It is a Timetrax model 185 made by Adams Brown. It works by analyzing the mechanical vibration of a clock and converting the vibration or tick and tock to an electrical signal that is amplified within the timer producing a readout that is compared to an included clock train table.
It also has a beat amplifier and a balance control that will help determine the beat of a clock. It will certainly ease the process of regulating a clock, detect potential problem areas and perhaps eliminate or certainly reduce the lengthy time it takes to adjust a clock beyond a trial and error approach. I will learn more as I explore its many features.
It runs on batteries and unfortunately there is no way of hooking it up to an external power source. Don’t we have enough things that run on batteries in our homes!
I connected it to my Seth Thomas regulator #2, which is weight driven.
Seth Thomas #2
I checked the beat. It is roughly set by ear at first and fine-tuned by the machine. A clock is in beat when the time between ticks is even.
Switch the controller to BAL or “balance” to put the clock in beat.
The screen then displays a magnitude of numbers. I am over simplifying things a bit but a new number positive or negative is displayed as the movement ticks and a clock is in beat when the magnitude of numbers is minimized. The ideal reading is a succession of zeros which is almost impossible but the closer one gets to the zeros the better and the clock is now in beat or as close as possible to being in beat. Values under 20 are the goal.
Now for the beat timing. A Seth Thomas #2 runs at 80 beats per minute. So, 80bpm X 60 is 4800 beats per hour. The escape wheel has 40 teeth, so in this case the best numbers for a preset average is 80 (a doubling) and by clicking the beat cycle plus-minus button one arrives at the required number. The result for the ST2 was 4798 beats per hour. I am losing 2 beat per hour and compounded over one week it means a loss of mere seconds per week which in my view is very acceptable for a mechanical clock. It is not surprising that these clocks were originally designed for train stations.
I am sure I will discover other uses for this machine but for the moment I am pleased with its capabilities.
Honestly, an entire book could be devoted to the topic of dating clocks. Some time ago, I published an article titled “How to Date an Antique or Vintage Clock – Part I,” in which I used specific examples from my own collection.
I’d like to explore this topic further, and this post will discuss additional methods for dating an antique or vintage mechanical clock. While there is no one definitive method for dating an antique or vintage clock, there are often clear clues in some cases and more subtle hints in others that can help pinpoint when a clock was made.
Occasionally, the exact month and year are displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances, the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.
After 1896 foreign clocks (Europe, England) were mandated to have the country of origin on the case, usually on the dial. Any clock made after that date will have the country of origin.
Duration of manufacture
A bit of research into the history of a clockmaker can help you narrow down the timeframe for dating your clock. For instance, the E.N. Welch Clock Company, an American manufacturer, produced clocks until 1903, when it was acquired by the Sessions Clock Company, which continued making clocks until 1970. The E.N. Welch Clock Company made clocks for a 50-year period until its acquisition by Sessions in 1903.
By 1903 German-based clock manufacturer Junghans was the largest clock maker in the world and continued in its quest to bring more companies into the fold. Gustav Becker, founded in the 1860s, and Hamburg American Clock Company, founded in 1883 were absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. Although those companies were folded into Junghans in 1926 the Gustav Becker name lived on for another 9 years.
Gustav Becker regulator C.1907, Braunau factory
Clocks with Steel vs Brass platesvs Woodworks movements
Smaller shelf clocks with 1-day (30-hour) wooden movements were produced in fairly large quantities from around 1810 to 1845, after which most clockmakers changed over to brass movements. Wood dials were also popular during this period.
Daniel Pratt woodworks movement with dial removedC.1832-38
By 1860 iron weights were being replaced by springs as the power source, and smaller clocks, many of them 8-day, were becoming increasingly popular. Early American spring-driven clocks used brass springs (late 1830s) until steel became cost-effective.
This information is important for dating a clock because it highlights key transitions in clockmaking technology and design, which can help pinpoint the era in which a clock was made. For example, the use of wooden movements and wood dials can indicate a clock was produced between 1810 and 1845. The shift from iron weights to springs by 1860 helps us understand why spring-driven clocks became popular, which is crucial for narrowing the period of manufacture. Additionally, the switch from brass springs to steel in the early 1840s can provide a more precise date range for early spring-driven clocks.
Understanding these technological changes allows you to make more informed judgments about a clock’s age based on its features.
Brass mainsprings from a Manross steeple clock C.1837
During periods when brass was in short supply such as the World Wars (WWI and WWII), makers often made steel plate movements with brass bushing inserts. However, some companies such as Arthur Pequegnat used either steel plates or brass-plated steel plates throughout their operating years (1902 to 1941).
Steel plates on a Pequegnat time and strike clock
Other clock companies switched to steel as a cost-cutting measure when brass prices were high, not necessarily during wartime.
Screws and nails, chime rods, coiled gongs
In older clocks, nails, and screws were made of iron and hand-forged, with screw heads being slotted. Hand-forged nails can be found in clock cases dating from the earliest examples up to the mid-19th century, after which machined screws and nails started to replace them.
An ogee clock, like this example made by George H. Clark in 1865, was constructed with hand-forged nails.
George H Clark 30-hour Ogee shelf clock
Robertson and Phillips head screws were introduced in the first part of the twentieth century. Since the Robertson head was invented in 1906 and Phillips screw heads only began to be widely used in the 1930s screws of these types found in older antique clocks are later additions.
Since these screw types were introduced in the early 20th century, their use in a clock that dates from an earlier period suggests that the screws were likely replaced or added during a later restoration or repair. Recognizing these screws helps refine the clock’s dating and can provide insight into its history and any modifications it may have undergone.
The first rod gong, a single striking rod, dates back to patent designation DRGM 108469, granted to Johann Obergfell on December 23rd, 1899. The introduction of the rod gong, as opposed to earlier bell or strike systems, represents a key development in the evolution of mechanical clocks, especially in terms of sound quality and the technology used.
Understanding when this innovation occurred can help date a clock more accurately, particularly those with rod gongs, as it indicates they were likely made after 1899. Rod gongs are typically made from a copper or nickel alloy and are press-fitted into a block.
Thick coiled gong
There are two types of coils: the thick coils, which spiral only a few times and produce a deep, rich tone, and the thinner coils, which spiral many times and often have a higher-pitched, tin-like sound. Thick coils were used well before the mid-1800s. These coils are typically mounted onto a fitting, which is then attached to an iron block. Smaller, thicker coils became more common towards the end of the 19th century.
On the American front, thin wire coils were very common. Some examples had the coil mounted to a dome-shaped base which was said to improve the tone considerately.
Commemorative plaques
Commemorative plaques which display dates are often a good indicator of the age of a clock. However, the clock may have been on a seller’s shelf for years before the date on the plaque. This nevertheless places the clock within a certain range of dates. This photo shows a plaque on a HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) time and strike shelf clock.
HAC shelf clock with the date 1926 on a plaque
Type of escapement
Recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, Brocot types are found in older antique clocks while, hairspring, floating balance, lever type escapements are found in newer vintage (less than 100 years old) clocks.
For example, floating balance movementsbegan appearing in mechanical clocks in the early 1950s. The floating balance will tolerate being out of level, unlike pendulum clocks which must be on a level surface, an attractive marketing feature.
This is important because the type of escapement mechanism used in a clock can provide key insights into its age and technological development. Older clocks with recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, or Brocot escapements reflect the horological practices of earlier periods, while newer clocks featuring hairspring, floating balance, or lever type escapements indicate a more modern design, typically found in clocks less than 70 years old.
For example, the introduction of the floating balance in the 1950s was a signifcant advance because it allows for clocks that are less sensitive to being off-level, a feature that made them more convenient for consumers. Recognizing these mechanisms helps in accurately dating a clock and understanding the technological shifts over time.
floating balance escapementC. 1950
Style of case
The style of the case, such as ogee, box clock, steeple, cottage, or gingerbread, can help date the clock to a specific period.
The style of a clock case can offer valuable clues about its age, as different case styles were popular during specific periods in history. Here’s a breakdown of some common clock case styles and their associated timeframes:
Ogee Clocks: These clocks, named for the distinctive curved, “S”-shaped design of their cases, were popular from the early 19th century, especially between 1825 and 1850 but continued to be made into the 1880s. They typically have a simple, symmetrical shape, often with a painted or paper dial, and were mostly made with wooden movements in the early years.
Box Clocks: This style features a simple, rectangular or square case, often with a hinged door or glass front. Box clocks were common in the early to mid-19th century (1920s to 1940s), with their plain, functional design making them relatively inexpensive to produce.
Steeple Clocks: Steeple clocks are characterized by their pointed, “steeple” shape at the top of the case. This design became particularly popular from the 1840s through the 1870s. Steeple clocks were typically more decorative and were often used in homes and churches, with some having more ornate carvings or decorative elements.
Cottage Clocks: Cottage clocks, with their simple and rustic designs, emerged in the mid-19th century, around the 1840s and 1850s. Often smaller in size, these inexpensive clocks were popular in rural homes. They are sometimes characterized by a more casual, handcrafted appearance, with wooden cases and floral or geometric motifs.
Gingerbread Clocks: This style, which features intricate carvings and decorative elements like scalloped edges, ornate moldings, and small, detailed pieces, gained popularity in the mid- to late-19th century (around 1860 to 1880). Gingerbread clocks are often associated with the Victorian era and were typically mass-produced.
The case style is a strong indicator of the clock’s approximate age because clockmakers and manufacturers often adapted their designs to reflect contemporary tastes. By identifying the specific features of a clock’s case—such as the materials used, shape, and any distinctive decorative elements—you can narrow down the period in which it was made, which can then aid in dating the clock more precisely.
E Ingraham Huron C.1878
Knowing the period when a case was made provides a reliable indicator of the clock’s age. Although there are earlier patent dates stamped on the movement of this E. Ingraham Huron time and strike 8-day shelf clock, this style of case was made for only 2 years, 1878 to 1880.
Date stamps on movements or cases& searchable databases
Some makers stamp date their movements or display the date elsewhere on the clock case. The Gilbert Clock Company often date-stamped their movements. Sessions put dates on the door labels.
Some makers such as Junghans stamp a date code on their movements. For example, B19 stamped on the back plate of a Junghans movement refers to a movement made in the latter half of 1919.
Serial numbers stamped on movements can be compared to a database to determine the exact year the clock was made. The Ridgeway clock company used 4-digit codes. For example, serial number 4981 refers to a Ridgeway clock made in 1981.
Gustav Becker clocks were made in both Silesia and Braunau factories, both of which produced clocks but each had a unique serial number convention. The serial number on a Gustav Becker clock will give the exact year of production assuming you know where it was made, Silesia or Braunau.
An online databases such as ClockHistory.com provides invaluable information on companies and models made by them, the years the clock company was in business, and how long the company was in operation.
Searchable databases like Mikrolisk, the horological trademark index help date a clock by comparing a trademark. Some companies revise or restyle their trademarks over the years allowing one to date a clock within a certain period.
At Antique-horology.org keywords or text can be used to search trademarks and identify years they were used.
Scottish tall case clock C.1848
The date 1848 is attributed to the clock above. I arrived at this date because it was made by William McLachlan of Newton Stewart, Scotland. According to an English clock database, Mr. McLachlan was a clock assembler and ran a clock-making business in Newton Stewart until his death in 1848. While the clock could have been assembled as early as 10 years prior, 1848 serves as a conservative estimate.
Other miscellaneous indicators
Plywood began to be used in clock cases starting in 1905. One of the clocks in my collection, a Junghans bracket clock, made around 1913, features a plywood back access door.
Seth Thomas made clocks in marble cases for a short time, from 1887 to about 1895. They also made clocks in iron cases finished in black enamel, from 1892 to about 1895.
Adamantine clocks were most popular through to 1915. Seth Thomas is best known for their “Adamantine” black mantel clocks, which were made starting in 1882. Adamantine is a celluloid veneer, glued to the wood case. Adamantine veneer was made in black and white, and in coloured patterns such as wood grain, onyx, and marble.
Seth ThomasAdamantine clock circa 1911
Final thoughts
My goal for this two-part article was to provide a broad, generalized overview. Each of the sub-topics mentioned above could be explored in much greater detail, and I hope this serves as a useful reference for some of you. I welcome any corrections to the dates, and if there’s anything I’ve missed or other information that should have been included, please feel free to leave a comment.
As I’ve outlined, there are many ways to date a clock—some methods are quite obvious, while others are more subtle and require a bit of research to pinpoint.
For some collectors and clock fans, dating a clock is crucial, as it adds historical context and value to the piece. For others, however, it may not be as important, especially if the clock serves primarily as a decorative item rather than a functional or collectible piece. In such cases, the aesthetic appeal might take precedence over its exact age.
A century ago, clock manufacturers understood the power of marketing, and the word “Regulator” became a key tool in their strategy to boost sales. By simply labeling a clock with “Regulator,” they could make it appear more precise and desirable, even if it wasn’t a true regulator. But did this marketing gimmick work? Let’s take a closer look.
Seth Thomas #2, typically used as a railroad time clock
By definition, a regulator clock was, and still is, a clock used as a standard for setting other clocks. Regulators were commonly found in businesses, railroad stations, public buildings, even churches and tower clocks, where townsfolk would adjust their personal clocks based on a clock that was trusted to be accurate. Early regulator clocks played an essential role in keeping communities synchronized in their daily routines.
Take, for example, the Gilbert calendar clock shown below. Advertised as a “Regulator,” it does not fit the true definition. With a spring-driven, time-only movement, it is accurate to within a minute or two per week, which is typical for spring-powered clocks. While the calendar feature is useful and the clock is attractive, it lacks the precision of a true regulator and would not be relied upon for setting other clocks. Still, it had the appearance of an accurate clock.
This Gilbert calendar clock is not a Regulator
Are there exceptions to this rule? As always, there are exceptions. The Welch Spring and Company produced a clock from 1874 to the mid-1880s certified for use in train stations. This double-weight, time-only clock, reminiscent of the well-regarded Seth Thomas Regulator #2, was stenciled with “Regulator” on its access door.
Given its constant weight-driven power and deadbeat escapement, it was likely a very accurate timekeeper and well-suited to any environment where accuracy was critical, such as a train station, business office, or public square.
Double-weight time-only Welch clock– is it a regulator?
This particular Welch clock, now a museum piece at the American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol, Connecticut, has been meticulously restored. When it was received, the lower tablet was missing, leading to questions about whether it originally came with the word “Regulator” on the access door. The answer is yes, some did, and some didn’t—there was a tick box on the order form for this feature.
So, while the use of “Regulator” on a clock often served as a marketing tactic to imply precision, there are instances where it genuinely signified accuracy. As a general rule, though, it’s safe to assume that many clocks labeled “Regulator” were more about selling an image than offering precise timekeeping.
In the world of clocks, the term “Regulator” was often used as a clever marketing strategy to sell more timepieces by suggesting greater accuracy. While some clocks with this label were indeed precise, many were simply designed to look the part.
As a buyer, it’s important to look beyond the label and evaluate the clock’s true functionality and history before assuming it lives up to its name.
The time has come to determine the best clock acquisition of the past year. As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks over the years, and despite the seemingly never-ending pandemic, I have scored a few in 2021 though the past year has been leaner than most.
In the early days of collecting, simple time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus so that I could take them apart, repair them if necessary, and generally advance my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. For the past three years, I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, or clocks that have a special provenance that even includes the odd mantel clock.
My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions often go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because I feel it is a fair price and other times there is some wheeling and dealing prior to firming the sale.
At the end of the post, you will have an opportunity to vote on what you think is the best in 2021.
In no particular order, here are my finds for 2021.
Sawin banjo clock
This is a garage sale find and even though it was purchased in the spring of 2021 it is still a work in progress. The clock is over 180 years old and in pretty decent shape.
Sawin weight driven banjo clock
It is a weight-driven banjo but it has no markings. An educated guess is that it was made by John Sawin of Boston or one of his associates on or close to 1840. I have completed minor veneer work on the case and have replaced the broken glass dial. The movement has been serviced but I am now looking at clock parts supply sources to replace a badly bent suspension spring. I want to avoid paying an outrageous price for the complete assembly; suspension spring, leader and spike.
Gilbert mantel or Shawville clock
I call this the Shawville clock because it spent most of its life in Shawville, Quebec (Canada).
It was a family clock for many years and following a death in the family, all possessions were either sold off or given away, a very common practice today. It has a time-and-strike Gilbert movement in a mahogany tinted case that has led a kind life since its manufacture in 1917. It is simple and unadorned and that’s what I love about it. I serviced the movement, cleaned the case, replaced a broken hour hand and now it is on prominent display in our home.
Gilbert time and strike
New Haven tall-case clock
An interesting $90 acquisition is this New Haven tall-case clock with a secret. Wow, a tall-case clock for $90, you say. Despite the look of a weight-driven clock, it is, in fact, a spring-driven clock. I was unaware of this until I walked through the door of the seller. I bought it anyway.
New Haven tall case clock
The weight cans are empty shells and they are simply there for show. The movement is quite large, eight-day, of course, and looks to be very robust. Despite my best efforts to determine if it was originally weight driven it had to have been spring-driven from the start, in other words, no evidence of a seat board or any additional holes for mounting the movement to the case. This appears to be an early “kit clock”, i.e. movement, dial face, hands, pendulum, “weights”, and ladder chains bought from the New Haven Clock Company and fitted to a pre-made case.
The case was very dark from years of accumulated dirt and grime and vigorous scrubbing revealed a wonderful red oak finish.
Waterbury Wren mantel clock
Ansonia Syria
Another clock with a secret is actually a disappointment. I found it in an antique store and it reminded me of an Ansonia Syria I had worked on for a friend last year, so, I was drawn to it.
Waterbury Wren mantel clock
It has a Waterbury case and what I thought was a Waterbury movement, but no.
It is missing the brass bezel and glass which is easily replaced but what is most disappointing is the mismatched movement, a Seth Thomas time and strike, which obviously replaced the original movement presumably because it was worn out. The movement is well-made and runs well but at the end of the day, the clock is destined to be sold.
Schatz Schatz carriage clock
This is a Schatz carriage clock made by August Schatz and Sohne of Germany. Thousands of these were sold and given as gifts through the 60s and 70s. It has an interesting lower visible escapement and an exposed movement.
Schatz carriage clock
Although it is working and keeping time it runs for about 4 days and stops. A cleaning is called for (on my list). It has a wind-up key in the back much like a typical alarm clock. It says West Germany on the dial and made, I would say, in the 1970s. August Schatz and Sohne closed in 1985, a victim of slow sales and a shift to quartz clocks by other makers.
Chauncey Jerome ogee clock
This clock is original in many ways, with a nearly flawless case made of mahogany veneer over softwood, moon hands, a wood dial, and a movement that matches when the case was made. Even the pendulum bob looks original. It was missing the suspension spring and rod and a wooden movement block, all easily sourced.
Chauncey Jerome 30-hour ogee clock
It cleaned up nicely and was a good candidate for a fresh coat of traditionally prepared shellac. I have three other 30-hour ogee clocks and this one is the most original of the bunch.
E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock
This is a very nice shelf clock from an estate auction. It is an Ingraham Grecian clock with an alarm feature. If you have ever used the alarm on an old antique clock your first impulse is to throw it through a window, it is so loud and it goes on and on till the spring winds down.
Ingraham Grecian 8-day shelf clock
It came with incorrect hands and I had the darnedest time sourcing them but searching various suppliers in Canada and the US paid off. The case has been cleaned and the movement serviced including the infuriating alarm.
Fleet Time Co. mantel clock
An inexpensive clock that had huge potential but left me frustrated. Fleet Time Co. of Montreal had a short life of 4 years before the Second World war when they lost their source of German movements.
Fleet Time clock
I stripped the case and re-glued some sections, applied a walnut stain and I was very pleased with the final result. I serviced the movement, wound the time side completely, and BAM, kerplunk! the sound of a mainspring exploding. Sometimes you can get away with just replacing a mainspring and other times, like this, it took out the barrel teeth and a leaf pinon on the second wheel. I placed it in a plastic bag and it is now on a shelf in the basement awaiting donor parts.
Hamburg American Clock Company. (HAC) mantel clock
This German-made mantel clock has an interesting 14-day movement, an early production type from HAC. HAC is short for the Hamburg American Clock Company, a German company which had a long history up to the time it was absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. This clock was made in or around 1895.
HAC 14-day mantel clock
It was another estate sale find. The case is nondescript and nothing special, but quite elegant.
So…..
Tell me what you think and I will reveal what I believe is my best acquisition this year in the next post. Let’s see if we agree.
I love this clock. It is one of my favorites. Bought in the fall of 2018, it has been on the kitchen wall and running ever since. Arthur Pequegnat clocks have a solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs, are among the most dependable and reliable clocks in my collection. this model is called the Moncton.
The Moncton was a regular fixture in offices and was then considered a “high-end” office clock. Many also found their way to rail stations across Canada. There were two variations of the Moncton, a short and a long version.
Those made before 1917 were known as the First Issue and had a tapered bottom piece. The second issue had a rounded bottom with a middle cut-out.
They are attractive clocks inspired somewhat by the Seth Thomas #2 although the Moncton has a 15-day double spring driven movement instead of the single weight of the #2.
I knew it required servicing but with so many other clock projects in the way I never got around to it. In my last post I took the movement out of its case and discovered that there is not a lot wrong with it.
The time-only movement is stamped Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company
It was dirty as expected and long overdue for a cleaning.
The movement is pretty simple with 4 wheels and an escape wheel plus the motion works. The two springs apply power simultaneously but one side can be wound if the other spring fails though the clock will run but for a shorter period.
The mainsprings are not what I expected, They are half the width of a typical time-only American clock. There is a reason for this. The Graham deadbeat escapement requires between one fourth to one half the driving power than the same clock using a recoil escapement. Less drive power means less wear over time. Having very few gears and little friction in the gear train also improves efficiency and time-keeping.
The Movement
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
The movement is attached to a support frame bolted to the case.
There are two screws holding the movement on the bottom that must be loosened and two long screws that go through both plates that hold it on top, much like a Seth Thomas #2.
Once disassembled I inspected the movement for wear.
I discovered the lantern pinions and pivots to be in very good condition for the age of the clock.
Time-only movement
The movement might have been cleaned at one point but there is no evidence of past repairs. The bushing holes are a little worn but not enough to warrant bushing work at this time.
Consequently, cleaning parts in the ultrasonic, polishing the pivots, cleaning the mainsprings and pegging out the bushing holes was the extent of servicing.
The movement was assembled and mounted in the clock for testing.
Cleaned and returned to the case for testing; notice the two top mounting screws
It will run for a cycle or two before I re-attach the dial and hands.
A pretty simple servicing requiring less than half a day of my time.
This 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front needed a little love. It has a Plymouth Lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. The clock was made in the 1870s. and purchased five years ago and has been running since.
I will take you through my early days of veneer repair. It is probably not my best work but it was a fun and challenging project plus, there was good learning.
The Seth Thomas clock as found
A previous owner had applied brown paint on areas of veneer loss, it looked ugly and when I saw that I decided the case could use a little tender loving care. Many of these clocks are in decent condition for their age but if you are shopping for column and cornice clock from this era take note of veneer losses. You may want to reconsider your decision to purchase if you feel it is not worth the time, effort and expense or if there us so much loss that it is unsightly.
Of course, there is always the school of thought that advocates leaving things as-is and that is perfectly fine. But, a little veneer work is minimally invasive, in my view.
Veneer issues
The most troublesome sections were the top and bottom of the case and the column base, not surprising since those are the prime targets of wear and tear over the years. Most of the cornice veneer is in good shape as are the door sections, door surrounds, and the sleighs just above the feet. Although there is work to be done, I have seen worse.
The veneer used at the time was Brazilian Rosewood, an exotic wood. Rosewood would have been used extensively by clock-makers of that era and replacement Rosewood veneer would be the correct choice. I have two 7 X 8 inch pieces of Rosewood veneer, more than enough for this project.
Veneer losses on the base
Prep-workand other case issues
The cornice on the left side was missing a section and that had to be attended to before the veneer work began.
Losses on the cornice and its base
Using scrap softwood I made a small piece and trimmed it roughly to fit. In this photo, I am testing the piece and making minor adjustments for a snug fit. The section is then glued in place and allowed to dry for 24 hours.
Cornice trim piece
The top area of the front cornice is now ready to be faced with veneer.
The sections with brown paint had to be sanded down to the bare wood to improve adhesion before gluing the new veneer.
Repairs made to left cornice
In selected areas, small sections of old veneer were removed to make way for larger replacement pieces.
I have decided not to tackle the columns. There are some losses but from a reasonable distance, they are fine.
Hide glue and Bloom strength
The one true adhesive for antique clock case applications is hide glue. Hide glue would have been utilized at the time the clock was manufactured.
I chose pearl hide glue which is rated at 150g Bloom strength (500g Bloom strength, the maximum, is not necessary for this type of repair). 150g hide glue takes a little longer to gel and adhere but with the slightly longer working time moving pieces around for best fit is easy.
Home-made double boiler
To ready the adhesive place the container with the gelatinous glue in a bath of water in a pot specially designed for hide glue or a double boiler which worked equally well for me. Heat to approximately 140°F (60°C), using a candy thermometer and maintain the temperature throughout. Heating the wood surface with a hair dryer before applying the glue is an option. Full strength is reached when it’s dry, and that can take 24 hours.
An excellent article on hide glue and its strength properties can e found here.
It is best to start with a small batch. Put 2 tablespoons (30ml) of glue in a glass container and cover with 1 tablespoon (15ml) of cold water and let soak for about an hour or until the glue softens and becomes gelatinous. To make a larger batch simply follow the 2 to one rule. I recommend making small quantities, to begin with. If there is glue left over I find that it can be frozen and reused later with no ill effect.
Tools
Clamps, weights, tweezers, wax paper, a sharp knife, a metal straight-edge, painter’s tape, a micrometer, sandpaper, palm sander, and whatever you choose to use as a double boiler complete the list of tools.
Clamps used for veneer work
A micrometer is an indispensable tool for accurate measurements. Accurate measurements ensure a good fit, minimize the use of fillers and lessen waste.
Cutting, trimming & clamping
The cutting of veneer can be tricky. Veneer is brittle, and can easily tear. Veneer today is quite different than veneer used 100+ years ago as it is very thin. On some clocks you must double-up or layer the veneer to approach the height of the original veneer. Another alternative, and a better option, is to harvest veneer from old clock cases. Old veneer is thicker, is very close to the look and feel of the original finish but just as brittle.
If old veneer is hard to work with, softening it with water will have a small and short-lived effect on a veneer’s flexibility. Another option is a product called Super-Soft 2, said to be ideal for softening veneer. For the little veneer work that I do I cannot justify the cost of a commercial softener and water is satisfactory for my purposes.
Painters tape easily peels off
The next photo shows a veneer section glued and clamped into place. Wax paper is used to prevent the glue from sticking to the clamp. Clamps are essential for veneer repair but when clamps do not work other methods such as weights can be employed. Leave the clamp on for 24 hours for maximum adhesion.
Clamping cornice veneer
Cutting can be a challenge since you must follow the grain and narrow strips can break very easily. Painters tape prevents tearing and is easily removed from the veneer prior to or after the application.
The most challenging areas were the very top and very bottom of the case and the column bases but after many hours the veneer work is now complete. The next step is colour matching the new to the existing veneer.
Top of cornice veneerwith new veneer
Rosewood Minwax Gel stain is a close match to the older veneer but I would recommend experimenting with a coat of shellac first before applying a stain, in fact, a stain should be a last resort.
The base section is finished
There is always good learning resulting from each project and in retrospect, I should have replaced the entire section under the left sleigh rather than cut two pieces of veneer to fit either side of the existing piece.
The completed case includes a repainted dial and replacement upper tablet
As with any other project, there will always be a slight colour variance between old and new veneer and the goal, as always, is to come as close as possible to the original finish.
The last photo shows the completed clock with a repainted dial and a new middle tablet.
I originally assumed this clock was a Seth Thomas since it had a Seth Thomas movement. After a thorough search on the web, I concluded that this was not a Seth Thomas case. I searched for clocks made by other clockmakers, starting with E.N Welch, Ansonia (because it is similar in style to the Syria), Gilbert, Sessions and finally Waterbury. The term “Waterbury cabinet clock” generated some hits. I found one on an auction site then, two more. I now have a case made by a different maker than the movement and in clock circles this is called a marriage.
The case is a Waterbury model called the “Wren”. I found three Wren models, two with paper dials and one with the identical dial pan as this clock. It may well be that this dial pan is original to the case.
Despite the fact that it is a marriage I might keep it. The case is attractive and the movement fits the case, although both the centre hole and regulator hole over the 12 look to have been bored out and not in a tidy way.
The dial has been cleaned and repainted.
Cleaned and repainted dial
Now to the case. It Stands 13 1/8″ Tall By 12 5/8″ Wide And 5 1/2″ deep. As of this writing if you search for this model you might see one or two without the top crown. It is easily detached and no surprise that it might go missing.
Crooked finial
The case is in good shape with no parts missing however, the top finial on the right is not correctly aligned with the bottom column which I did not notice till I began cleaning the case. Evidently it had detached in the past and a past repairer glued it back not noticing the misalignment. It was simple matter of prying the finial off, regluing and centering it.
Two other pieces had to be reglued, a support piece for the crown and crosspiece in the back for one of the sides of the crown.
I cleaned the case with Murphy’s soap and following the scrubbing I decided that there was enough shellac worn off that a fresh coat would make the case much more appealing.
Finial is reattached and straighter
New coat of shellac
I applied traditional shellac, mixing amber flakes and alcohol with a broad artists brush. In the next shot you can see the difference between the left side of the crown and the right. I now have the option of leaving the finish as-is or aging it by “dulling” it with 4X0 steel wool.
Crown section
In the next photo is the completed case.
To me it is a huge improvement.
All this is being done while the movement is undergoing testing and once the testing is complete the two, the case and the movement will be “married” again.
Now if I can find the matching glass and bezel it will be complete.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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