This is a cautionary tale for anyone who owns a long-case or tall-case clock, especially a weight-driven example. I make that distinction because I do own a tall-case clock that is spring-driven, which I can assure you is quite unusual. Most, however, are weight-driven.
The other day, I went to investigate an issue with the strike side of an old Scottish clock assembled by a clockmaker named William McLaughlin in Scotland in the late 1840s. I purchased the clock at auction six years ago and spent many hours repairing the movement and restoring the case.
At the time, the clock was running—but just barely. The time side was functioning well, but the strike side needed some work and the addition of new parts to operate correctly. Since then, the clock has been running continuously and reliably for the past six years.
Recently, the strike side began to show a slight problem, which prompted me to remove the hood and carry out a closer inspection. The issue turned out to be that the rack was dropping too far back and was no longer being picked up properly by the gathering pallet. This situation seems to occur when I wind up the strike side weight too quickly, but something else might be amiss.
While investigating that area, I noticed something far more concerning: the strike-side barrel cable was badly frayed. The cable is made up of three groupings of strands, with each grouping consisting of about six wires. In this case, two of those groupings had snapped off completely. That left only one grouping intact—and even that was reduced to perhaps three or four remaining brass wires supporting the cable.
All of this was holding a 13-pound weight. I have enlarged the photo above to better illustrate the problem.
The proper solution is to repair or replace the cable. As a temporary measure, the existing cable may be reused, provided it is still in sound condition. This involves removing the movement from the case, separating the plates, and opening the strike-side drum. The cable can then be fed back into the barrel and secured with a knot on the inside. Although this shortens the cable by an inch or two, it should have no meaningful impact on the clock’s running time.
Since I will have the movement apart, it will be an opportunity to clean the movement, address any wear, and re-oil the mechanism. I checked the time-side drum to determine if there is a similar issue with the cable, and to my surprise, found it to be just fine.
The takeaway here is a simple but important one: weight cables on long-case clocks deserve regular inspection, especially on clocks that run continuously year after year. Fraying often happens slowly and out of sight, and failure can be sudden and dramatic—with potentially serious damage to the movement, the case, or anything beneath the falling weight. In the case of this clock, there is nothing to cushion the blow if the weight were to drop. A loud bang would accompany a dented hardwood floor.
A few moments spent checking cables when servicing or inspecting a clock can prevent a great deal of trouble later on. In this case, I was fortunate to catch the problem before gravity finished the job.
Starting an antique clock collection can be both exciting and a little overwhelming. With so many styles, makers, movements, and time periods to choose from, it’s easy to wonder where to begin. The good news is that you don’t need deep pockets or expert knowledge on day one—just curiosity, patience, and a willingness to learn.
I remember my early days of collecting, when I was eager to add just about anything to my budding collection. Today, I am far more discerning, carefully considering each potential acquisition. However, in my 25 years of collecting, I still own the first clock I would consider a true antique.
Seth Thomas Adamantine Mantel Clock, my very first true antique clock
If you’re thinking about starting your own antique clock collection, I offer some practical tips to help you get started on the right foot.
1. Start With What You Like
The best advice for any collector is simple: buy what you enjoy. Don’t worry about trends, investment value, or what others say you should collect. Whether it’s a simple kitchen clock, a shelf clock, a Vienna regulator, or a mantel clock with a rich patina, choose pieces that genuinely appeal to you.
One of my favorite clocks
If a clock makes you look twice when you enter a room, that’s always a good sign.
2. Learn the Basics Before You Buy
You don’t need to become a horological expert overnight, but learning a few fundamentals will save you money and frustration. Take some time to understand:
Common movements (time-only, time and strike, chiming, spring or weight-driven clocks)
Key terms like escapement, pendulum, mainspring, and strike train
Books, museum visits, online forums, and blogs (like mine) devoted to antique clocks are excellent learning tools. The more you learn, the more confident you’ll feel when evaluating potential purchases. Knowledge is power!
3. Set a Budget—and Stick to It
Antique clocks can range from modestly priced to very expensive. Decide early on what you’re comfortable spending and remember to factor in possible repair costs. A clock that seems like a bargain may need servicing, which can quickly exceed the purchase price.
If you are bidding on a clock online, don’t get caught up in a bidding war. Set a firm limit and be prepared to walk away—other opportunities will inevitably come along.
A surprisingly inexpensive find; a Scottish tall case clock from the 1840s
Many fine antique clocks are still affordable, especially if you’re open to cosmetic wear or minor issues. A well-maintained, honest clock is often a better choice than an over-restored one.
4. Condition Matters More Than Perfection
It’s normal for antique clocks to show signs of age—after all, many are well over a century old. Look for clocks that are complete, structurally sound, and largely original. Missing parts, incorrect replacements, or heavily altered cases can be difficult and costly to correct.
When possible, ask:
Does the clock run?
Has it been serviced recently?
Are all the parts present?
Even if a clock isn’t currently running, it can still be a good purchase if you understand what it may need. In time, you will develop the skills and expertise needed to repair a non-running clock.
5. Buy From Reputable Sources
When starting out, it helps to buy from sellers who know clocks and are willing to answer questions. Antique shops, clock shows, auctions, and fellow collectors can all be good sources. Be cautious with vague descriptions or sellers who can’t provide basic information about the clock.
Over time, you’ll develop a sense for what feels right—and who you can trust.
6. Keep Records of Your Collection
As far as record-keeping, I find myself offering advice I don’t always follow. Perhaps that’s the true challenge of collecting.
From the beginning, get into the habit of keeping notes on your clocks. Record where and when you bought them, the maker, any repairs done, and any interesting history attached to the piece. Photographs are invaluable.
This not only adds enjoyment to collecting but also becomes important for insurance, resale, or passing the clocks on to future generations.
7. Be Patient and Enjoy the Journey
A good clock collection isn’t built overnight. It evolves over time as your tastes change and your knowledge grows. Some clocks will stay with you forever; others may move on as your focus becomes more refined. Although I enjoyed collecting common mantel clocks from the 1930s, 40s, and 50s, that is no longer my focus—and that’s perfectly normal. I wrote an article recently about thedynamic aspect of clock collecting that you might find interesting.
Collecting antique clocks is as much about the stories, craftsmanship, and history as it is about the clocks themselves. I marvel at the stories behind some of my clocks.
8. Investment value
From time to time, antique clocks are promoted as “investments,” but this is often a misunderstanding of both the market and the hobby. While a few rare, high-end pieces may appreciate, most antique clocks do not reliably increase in value once repair, maintenance, and storage costs are considered. Tastes change, markets fluctuate, and selling can be slow and unpredictable. Collecting clocks for enjoyment, historical interest, and craftsmanship is far more rewarding than treating them as a financial strategy.
Ingraham Huron balloon-style shelf clock; Somewhat rare, but collected for appreciation—not investment
Final Thoughts
Starting an antique clock collection is a rewarding pursuit that connects you to history, engineering, and artistry. Take your time, ask questions, learn as you go, and most importantly—enjoy the process. Every clock has a story, and as a collector, you become part of it
Tick-Talk Tuesday is a special time when I respond to readers’ letters and comments about clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. When the comments and questions are especially complex, I consult with fellow clock enthusiasts within my circle to ensure I offer the most precise and helpful answers possible.
David P writes
I am inquiring if there is any chance you could offer me an opinion of who the maker maybe of the below clock. I am exploring purchasing the clock and just trying to learn more about it. I am not looking for an appraisal or value, just trying to determine the maker. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
Respectfully,
David P.
My Reply
Hi, and thanks for your email, David P. What do you know, and what have you been told about the clock? (Unfortunately, I received no further details about the clock from David)
My initial impression was that it might be an English or Scottish tall case clock. This style was widely produced in both England and Scotland from the early 19th century up until around 1900. American clockmakers of the period were strongly influenced by these British designs.
However, upon further examination, it appears to have all the features of an early 1800s to 1825 American clock, including the plain, understated case, the design of the columns and capitals, the top fretwork, the brass finials, and the arched dial with a moon phase and calendar window.
These clocks are difficult to identify unless there are markings on the clock case or dial face. A painted name is typically on the dial, usually below the center arbour, often including the maker’s town or city. On painted dials, the name may be faint or worn off due to age.
There may be a name or trademark on the backplate or front plate of the movement but I have found that to be less common with many clocks having generic “English-style” bell strike movements. Even less common is a signature found inside the case door or on the backboard. Sometimes, paper labels were pasted inside the case though extremely rare.
Some makers at the time were Simon Willard (Roxbury, MA) – Famous for tall case clocks and his patent timepiece (“banjo” clock). He used finely made 8-day brass movements.
Others were Elnathan Taber, Aaron Willard, from the Willard family.
Daniel Munroe, Lemuel Curtis were top-tier Massachusetts makers, David Rittenhouse (Philadelphia) was renowned for his precision movements and astronomical clocks. John Wood, Benjamin Chandlee, and others in Pennsylvania and Maryland made complex 8-day brass movements.
That said, determining the maker of a clock can be particularly challenging when there is no visible trademark, label, or inscription. However, experienced collectors and horologists often look for clues in the construction of the case and the design characteristics of the movement. Certain features—such as the shape or the style of the hands and pendulum, the design of the dial face—may point to specific regions or even individual makers. That said, without definitive markings, any attribution remains speculative and requires careful comparison with known examples from the period.
In short, I cannot identify the clock—more research is needed. I would add that if it were made by an eminent American clockmaker, such as Simon Willard, it would have been identified as such by now.
The bottom line is that it looks impressive, it appears to be intact, and if you like it and it falls within your budget, it would be a nice acquisition.
In late June 2025, I received an invitation to attend the installation of a historic Nova Scotia family clock. Unfortunately, I was unable to attend the July 12th ceremony, but I asked the museum manager if I could publish the public service announcement on this blog. She agreed and gave permission to include photos as well.
Bishop family clock
The Nova Scotia (Canada) Kings County Museum’s mission statement is “To preserve and promote the cultural and natural history of Kings County for present and future generations.”
The Bishop Family clock left Nova Scotia in 1902, has been returned to Nova Scotia after more than 120 years. The circa 1770 clock will become part of a permanent exhibit at the museum focusing on the New England Planters and the Bishop family.
“Built by John Bishop, a member of one of the first Planter families to settle in Horton (eastern Kings County), the clock was given to his daughter Amelia as a wedding gift when she married Charles Dickson in 1772.”
King’s County Museum, 37 Bridge Street, Kentville NS
Here is the announcement:
Historic Bishop Family Clock Returns to Nova Scotia Installation to Take Place at Kings County Museum
July 12, 2025 1:00 PM Kings County Museum, Kentville NS All welcome
Please join the Kings Historical Society as we welcome Stephen Sieracki, a Maryland-based horologist (clock specialist), who will permanently install a historic clock in the Kings County Museum.
The clock, a significant Planter artifact and a rare example of early clockmaking in Nova Scotia, is returning home after 200 years. It was crafted in Horton Township in the late 1700s by John Bishop and given to his daughter, Ameila, upon her wedding to Charles Dickson, of Horton in 1772.
Since 1772, the Bishop Clock, a remarkable example of early Nova Scotian ingenuity and woodworking, has found itself in many different homes and, most recently, in Annapolis, Maryland where it has been taken care of by descendants of John Bishop. The clock will return home to Nova Scotia in July, accompanied by Stephen Sieracki, and find a new home at the Kings County Museum where it will be preserved for generations to come.
On July 12th, 2025, the clock will be installed in a permanent exhibit which will pay tribute to the Bishiop family, the Bishop family clock, and the planter legacy of Kings County. This installation will include reinstalling the Bishop Clock mechanisms (which will have been removed for safe transport). Stephan Sieracki will also be giving a talk on 18th-century clocks, including specific details and research on the Bishop Clock, and demonstrations. Q&A session to follow presentation.
For more information, please contact info@kingscountymuseum.ca or call the Museum at 1-902-678-6237.
The return of the Bishop Clock is more than the homecoming of a cherished family heirloom—it is a powerful reminder of the ingenuity, craftsmanship, and stories that shaped our communities. Preserving artifacts from the past, like this remarkable tall case clock, allows us to connect with the lives and legacies of those who came before us.
These tangible links to history enrich our understanding of who we are and where we come from. By safeguarding them today, we ensure that future generations can continue to learn from and be inspired by the people, cultures, and innovations that helped build our communities.
In an era when Canadian furniture manufacturers were struggling to compete with international imports, one company stood out not just for its elegant craftsmanship but for the remarkable story behind its founder.
Craftline Industries, established in Toronto during the mid-20th century, was the brainchild of Manny Drukier, a Holocaust survivor whose vision, ingenuity, and resilience transformed a fledgling furniture operation into one of Canada’s premier producers of home furnishings and decorative clocks. With little formal education but a boundless entrepreneurial spirit, Drukier built more than a business—he created a legacy that continues to tick away in homes across North America.
Manny Drukier, as a young man, after WWII
In preparation for an article on Craftline Industries and its founder, Manny Drukier, I contacted the Drukier family with a series of questions. My main point of contact for this article was Cindy Drukier, Manny’s daughter. The Drukier family responded with remarkable generosity, providing a wealth of information, far exceeding what I had initially sought. I have included the entire text of their reply to me and have their permission to make minor edits for flow and clarity.
A snapshot of production, entitled Production Operations 1974, offers readers a clear sense of the scale and ambition behind Manny Drukier’s vision.
Manny Drukier’s Story as Told by His Family
From his daughter, Cindy Drukier, “The answers to the questions you asked may be more than you bargained for. Apologies for the excessive detail in some places, but the family decided that since such scant online evidence of Craftline exists, this was an opportunity to enter it into the digital record. These days, if it doesn’t exist online, it’s almost as if it never happened. So we’re grateful for the opportunity!”
The answers were written by Manny’s daughter Cindy, with input from her mom, Freda Drukier, and three siblings, Gordon, Laurie, and Wendy. Cindy also consulted the 1974 Canadian Jeweller article (which I have summarized in a separate section) and Manny’s unpublished writings. Manny has a published memoir, “Carved in Stone: Holocaust Years – A Boy’s Tale,” but it stops when he arrives in Canada. He wrote a Part 2, but it wasn’t published before he passed. Manny died in January 2022 of Alzheimer’s at 93.
The Vision
In 1948, Manny arrived in Toronto, a 19-year-old Holocaust survivor from Poland. He’d already spent a year in New York, but his mother and sister had made it to Toronto post-war, so he moved to Canada to join them.
Suddenly, Manny had to find a way to support the family. While buying furniture for their tiny flat with savings from New York, it dawned on him that the city was full of fresh immigrants needing to do the same—furniture would be a booming business, he figured. He had zero experience but managed to finagle (i.e., lie that he had experience) a sales position in a furniture store and quickly excelled at it, earning $30 for a six-day week, plus 2 percent commission.
He lasted less than a year working for someone else. By then he decided he had learned all he could and would go into business for himself.
He rented his first small store with his brother-in-law, David Rosenfeld, on Bloor St. West near Dufferin in downtown Toronto and called it North American Furniture. It went well, and soon they opened a second location on The Danforth on the east side of downtown Toronto. In 1961, they closed both to open a much larger and more upscale store in a former supermarket at Bathurst and Eglinton.
By 1964, he noticed he was importing more and more goods from the United States because Canadian furniture, although well-made, wasn’t elegant enough for modern consumer demand. He saw an opening in the market. He also disliked being the middleman—selling the wares of others—so he decided to go into manufacturing.
He didn’t have a clue how to do it, but he thrived on challenge and had infinite faith in his ability to figure things out. He sold North American Furniture to his brother-in-law and cobbled together a couple of partners for his new venture. Leonard Caplan was manufacturing case goods in Georgia, and Henry Gancman was a Canadian maker of chrome kitchen sets, which Manny sold in his store.
Manny, circled in red
They opened a small factory in the north end of Toronto, on Lepage Ct., employing about 15 people. One was my mother, Freda, who set up the bookkeeping and ran the one-woman office.
A couple of years later they moved to a bigger location, that included a showroom, on Milvan Dr. A few years after that they bought some land (including some from the power company, Ontario Hydro), to eventually build a 215,000 sq foot factory, showroom, and offices on 13 acres located at 15 Fenmar Drive in Weston, and industrial area at the northwest end of Toronto.
Craftline catalog
Craftline manufactured all-wood occasional furniture such as coffee tables, end tables, curios, and consoles, and, later on, wall units and grandfather and grandmother clocks. It eventually became Canada’s top manufacturer of elegant furniture, employing about 250 people.
Craftline catalogue
Cindy added, “Manny was the main designer for all the furniture, including the clocks. He had no experience in this, of course, and couldn’t really draw on any either, but he always had lots of ideas!”
ProductionOperations 1974
The information in this section is sourced from the March 1974 issue of Canadian Jeweller magazine.
Demand for Craftline grandfather clocks was high in 1974—so high, in fact, that the company couldn’t keep up with orders. In 1973, Craftline produced 2,500 grandfather clocks and expected to double production by the end of the year, 1974. At the time, owner Manny Drukier estimated the U.S. retail market for clocks, priced between $200 and $4,000, to be worth $200 million.
Manny is in the special clock boutique area of the factory
Craftline began making grandfather clocks in 1968, and by 1974, 20% of the company’s total output was devoted to them. The tall clock cases were made from solid lumber and veneered with fruitwood, elm, and ash, in styles such as Spanish, Mediterranean, Colonial, and Country French.
They produced both eight-day mechanical clocks and transistorized, battery-operated, pulsation-type clocks. The higher-priced models used mechanical movements, while the less expensive versions, made by subsidiary Craftique, used battery-powered movements. Craftique, by 1974, had manufactured 14,000 units.
The production floor
In 1974, clock faces, hands, and weights were imported, although Craftline was exploring Canadian sources. The mechanical movements were imported from two suppliers in Schwenningen, Germany. One supplier would have impacted production, while relying on two suppliers was a safer approach.
While the suppliers were not named in the article, at least six companies were manufacturing movements in Schwenningen at the time: Kienzle, Mauthe, Hermle, Schatz, Urgos, and Haller. (Author’s note: Urgos and Hermle would have been the suppliers)
Eaton department stores began selling Craftline clocks in 1972, but could not get enough stock to meet demand. However, most clocks were sold through furniture stores, where salespeople were well-equipped to market them. Jewellery stores typically bought in smaller volumes, as limited floor space made it harder to display the larger clocks.
Checking on Canadian sources for parts
The Craftline plant could finish 700 clock cases in two days, but the four-person team responsible for installing movements could only assemble 36 completed clocks per day. Much of the training for clock assembly was done in-house, with employees learning from one another.
Back to the story.
Launching the Clock Line
Manny constantly had an antenna up, looking for profitable ways to expand Craftline’s offerings, and, in 1968, he got the idea for grandfather clocks. We’re not sure where the idea came from.
Craftline catalog
Manufacturing the wood cabinets was easy, but not so the clockworks. He had two suppliers in the German Black Forest, but we don’t know more than that. I do know that, being a Holocaust survivor, he initially had misgivings about buying the works from Germany, but they were excellent and reliable, so he went with it. He said he also considered sourcing them from Asia, but decided it was too risky. He had expressed hope of buying them from a Canadian source in the future, but that never happened.
The clock cases were made of hardwood like elm, ash, and fruitwood. There were many designs, including traditional, Spanish, Mediterranean, colonial, and country French. They either had an eight-day wind-up chain mechanism or battery-operated pulsation movements. The highest-end grandfather clock was an oriental design with black lacquer and gold. The wholesale price for that clock was about $1,000 (CAD) in the early 1970s. It was the only model with an imported case—from Portugal, as it turns out.
He also started a spinoff company called Craftique Originals that produced ornamental objects from molded urethane. Craftique’s products included elaborate mirror frames, framed art reproductions, wall-mounted weather stations, and a line of wall clocks that looked like miniature grandfather clocks—except their brass weights were purely decorative and they didn’t chime.
Clock Sales and Ice Cream
Craftline had a team of salesmen who covered Canada coast to coast, and a bit of the eastern United States. All clocks were branded as either Craftline or Craftique, and they were sold to department stores and independent retailers, not to individual customers. He did, however, offer a premium service: customers could order a personalized engraved brass plate for their clock. Cindy Drukier spent one summer filing invoices and using an engraving machine to etch out those plates.
And there was one time when Manny traded a grandfather clock for its value in ice cream from the first Canadian importer of Häagen-Dazs. “Best business deal ever for a household with four kids!”
The Difficult Process of Ending Operations
Craftline lasted until 1991, when two hammers fell at once: The Canada-US Free Trade deal (precursor to NAFTA), and the introduction of the GST (Goods and Services Tax). Both hit manufacturers hard. Everyone knew Canada’s furniture industry wouldn’t make it, and despite a valiant effort to keep things afloat, the bank stepped in and forced Craftline into bankruptcy.
Craftline catalogue
By then, Manny was the sole owner. He and Henry had bought out Leonard in about 1975, and Henry got out in the final few years.
It was very upsetting, says my mom, after putting so much of your life, money, time, energy, and creativity into something, and then to have the rug pulled out from under you through no fault of your own.
She worked by his side the entire time. Manny was more philosophical and practical about it. He really didn’t dwell on things. It happened, so it happened. Meanwhile, he had other business ventures and interests. He also took the opportunity to go to Poland, with Freda, for the first time since the war and write his memoir (Carved in Stone: Holocaust Years – A Boy’s Tale).
Grandfather clockowned by the author’s daughter
Personal Challenges
We had one very fine oriental-style grandfather clock for about 40 years until it was consumed by flames in a house fire in 2011. So we all grew up with that wonderful ambient chime every 15 minutes. We’re elated to hear that many Craftline clocks are still working well!
What he enjoyed most about business was always the challenge. Clocks were just the next challenge, having mastered furniture. Lack of experience was never a barrier. He was not motivated by money—he was motivated by trying to make a longshot succeed. Nothing daunted him. Certainly, that attitude came from surviving the Holocaust. Money was fleeting—in a single day, it could be made worthless. And since he’d already been through the worst, no setback was terribly troubling. He also got bored quickly with the routine.
TheLegacy of Manny Drukier
It’s extremely heartwarming to hear that you (author) care to research and record the history of Craftline. He’d be gratified to know it! Occasionally, we hear about this or that Craftline clock still standing in someone’s home, and it’s always satisfying to know its chimes are resonating in someone’s life.
Grandmother clock owned by the author’s sister
Manny had many business ventures over the years, not just Craftline, although Craftline was the constant, and the one that made money. But he also dabbled in real estate, although he found it generally uninteresting (unless he had colourful tenants).
He published two short-lived magazines—a cooking magazine, “à la carte [sic]”, and a literary magazine, “The Idler”. He opened a pub we lived above, also calledThe Idler, and ran that for 15 years. He became an author and the star of a documentary my husband and I made about his war years called Finding Manny.
Manny was an innovator—if he had a vision, he went for it, and nothing would stop him. Because of the war, his formal education stopped at grade 4, but he was a voracious reader and a lifelong learner. He was a generous mentor and an incurable optimist. He also had a great sense of humor and left us with many useful words of wisdom.
“I’ll leave you with a few gems that seem most apt:
LIfe isn’t a cafeteria, you can’t always choose what you want.
Sometimes a kick in the pants is also a step forward.
Don’t be the schmuck who ends up walking backwards when you’re moving furniture.
I think I’ve contributed something by my staying alive. (in Finding Manny):
We agree.
The Drukier Family”
That’s the story—more than I ever expected. I encourage you to watch Finding Manny, which explores Manny’s early life, the profound loss of family members during the Second World War, and the horrors of the death camps.
Given the lack of other dedicated online sources, this stands as the most reliable and comprehensive resource currently available on Craftline Industries.
Transporting antique clocks requires meticulous care due to their delicate mechanisms and fragile components, including glass panels and chime or strike rods. Whether you’re moving a clock across the house, across town, or shipping it across the country, proper packing and handling are essential to avoid damage.
However, this guide focuses on the steps needed to safely relocate your antique clock from one room to another.
Although we are only moving a tall case clock, often referred to as a grandfather clock, a few meters to another room in our house, it’s important to follow several key steps to prevent damaging the clock.
A tall case clock poses the greatest challenge to relocate
The Clock
This Ridgeway tall case clock was made in the mid-1990s by the Pulaski Furniture Company, which is still in operation today as part of HF Hooker Furnishings in Virginia, USA. We acquired the clock in 2013 from a collector in Halifax, Nova Scotia.
The closest match to its model name appears to be “Hamilton Country.” The Ridgeway line was eventually absorbed by the Howard Miller group about 20 years ago. New Ridgeway clocks feature Howard Miller-owned Keininger movements but in the 1980s and 90s, Hermle movements were typically found in Ridgeway grandfather clocks. This Hermle 451-033 movement in this clock has Westminster chimes and a midnight blue moon phase dial.
The clock is being moved to create more space between our main entryway and dining room. It is much better suited for display in our living room, which recently had its carpet replaced with hardwood.
Although one person can move the clock it is best left to two people.
Supplies
Before you begin, collect the necessary materials to ensure a safe process. This is a simple move so, other than a method of moving it to the new room the only supplies you will need are cotton gloves, twist ties, and padding (Styrofoam/sponge) for the chime rods. A moving dolly is optional, as the clock case is surprisingly light once the weights are removed from the case.
Remove Weights and Pendulum
Antique clocks often have fragile or loose parts that can potentially be damaged. Safely removing these components before moving is the key.
Since this is a weight-driven clock, I first remove the weights, label them left, right, centre, and place them away from the clock in a safe location. Check the underside of the weights as they might have a small sticker with a letter indicating their location. “L” for left, and so on. Mine are already labeled.
Next, carefully remove the pendulum and place it in a safe area. I use cotton gloves to protect against tarnishing the brass components. In this case, the pendulum is hooked onto a leader. To access the leader a side vent is removed so that you can observe the leader coming off the hook and the pendulum is then lifted out of the case.
The glass is often the most vulnerable component and can be challenging to protect completely. Simply be mindful of the glass when moving the clock a short distance.
Secure the Chainsand Chime Rods
My Ridgeway clock features pull-up weights. After removing and setting the weights aside, it’s essential to secure the chains. Use a twist tie to secure each chain, preventing them from becoming unhooked or tangled.
The clock’s delicate movement is securely anchored on the seat board and protection is not needed since the clock is moved only a short distance.
Chime rods produce a wonderful sound but are brittle, and even slight movement can cause them to collide and potentially break. If your clock has chime rods, they can be protected with Styrofoam blocks or pieces cut from a sponge placed between the rods.
If your clock is cable-wound, I recommend running the cables fully onto their respective drums. Before removing the weights, tie a string around each weight hook, run the string, and secure it tautly to a hook at the bottom of the case (most tall case clocks have a transport hook on the inside bottom of the case). By carefully securing and protecting the cables, you can help ensure they remain tangle-free and in good condition during the move.
Flooring Type
Since this clock was being moved to a new location which also had a hardwood floor I was not concerned about flooring issues. Hardwood flooring eliminates concerns about potential issues like uneven surfaces, leveling difficulties or thick carpeting, which could affect the clock’s stability or leveling once it is relocated. To reiterate, tall case clocks should not be placed on carpeted flooring.
Moving the Clock to a New Location
We used a dolly to move the clock most of the way but when it could not fit under a doorway we carried it the last meter.
Leveling
Don’t assume the floor in the new room is level, so be prepared to make some adjustments. The final step before re-attaching the pendulum and weights is leveling the clock. On modern tall case clocks, there are adjustment screws at each corner that turn clockwise to raise the clock and counterclockwise to lower it. Adjust both axes as needed until the clock is level.
In its new location
Once the weights are reattached and the pendulum is returned to the case, verify that the clock is running properly.
Proper handling and preparation are crucial to prevent unnecessary damage to tall case clocks, even when moving them just a few meters.
NOTE: Please refer to this article if you are transporting your clock from one location (across a city for example) to another.
Transporting antique clocks requires extra care and attention due to their delicate movements and fragile components such as glass, and chime/strike rods. Whether you’re moving a clock across town, or shipping it across the country, proper packing and handling are crucial to prevent damage. This guide will walk you through the steps needed to transport and pack your antique clocks securely.
A tall case clock poses the greatest challenge for shipping
Supplies
Before you begin, collect the necessary materials to ensure a safe packing process. Here’s a checklist of essential supplies:
Bubble wrap
Packing paper
Foam sheets or padding
Small zip-lock bags (for loose parts)
Sturdy moving boxes
Packing peanuts or other filler material
Painter’s tape or masking tape that is safe for wood
Labels and markers
Shock-absorbent material (such as foam corners)
Remove Any Loose Parts
Antique clocks often have fragile or loose parts that can shift during transport, potentially causing damage. Safely removing these components before packing is key.
If the clock is a pendulum model, carefully remove the pendulum and wrap it in bubble wrap. Place it in a separate small box or wrap in cardboard to be placed within the larger box.
For weight-driven clocks, remove the weights, label them left, right, centre, and wrap each one individually in foam or bubble wrap. Store them in a separate container.
If your clock has removable glass panels or doors, carefully take them out to prevent cracking. The glass is often the most vulnerable component and can be challenging to protect completely. Wrap them in thick layers of bubble wrap or foam and label them as fragile.
Place clock keys, winding cranks, or any small parts in zip-lock bags, label them clearly, and tape them to the outside of the clock, or pack them with the pendulum and weights.
Secure the Movement
The clock’s movement is delicate and should be secured to prevent internal damage during transport.
For clocks with Pendulums secure the movement by placing a piece of crumpled, non-acidic packing paper or soft foam inside the case. This will stop internal components from shifting. For wall clocks, tape or immobilize the suspension spring to prevent it from moving. The suspension spring and rod may be removed but instructions for reinstallation should be included within the packaging.
If your clock has chime rods or bells, be sure to wrap these areas carefully with soft padding to prevent them from moving or hitting against other parts. Some clocks will have rod locks which must be engaged prior to packaging.
Twistable rod lock for a German box clock
Wrap the Clock Case
The clock’s case is as important as the movement, and any damage to it can decrease the clock’s value.
For wooden clocks, use painter’s tape or masking tape or at the very least a tape safe to use on wood. Secure any loose doors or panels to avoid movement. Wrap the entire case in bubble wrap, paying special attention to corners and edges. For best results use corner protectors.
If the front glass is fixed and can’t be removed, place padding over the glass and then wrap the entire case in several layers of bubble wrap. Avoid pressing too hard on the glass when wrapping.
Place in a Sturdy Box
Choosing the right box is key to safely transporting an antique clock. Pick a box that is slightly larger than the clock, allowing for at least 2-3 inches of padding on all sides.
Fill the bottom of the box with a thick layer of packing peanuts or foam. Place the wrapped clock in the center of the box and fill the surrounding space with more peanuts or padding until the clock is snug and immobile. Ensure that no part of the clock is directly touching the sides of the box.
A poorly packed clock that did not survive shipping
For extra protection, place the packed box inside a second larger box with another layer of packing material between the two boxes.
Include an audio/video guide on a USB stick with instructions for setting up the clock once it arrives.
Label the Box/Instructional guide
Proper labeling is important, especially if the clock is going to be handled by others.
Clearly mark the box as “FRAGILE” on all sides. Unfortunately, labeling a package as “fragile” can sometimes invite rough handling, and a clock may still suffer damage despite careful packing.
If necessary, include handling instructions like “Do Not Tip” or “Open with Care” to make handlers aware of its delicate nature.
Transporting the Clock
If you’re moving the clock in your own vehicle, keep it upright and avoid placing it near heavy items that could shift and damage the clock. Make sure it is secured in the vehicle to prevent movement during turns or sudden stops.
If you’re shipping the clock, use a reliable courier service that offers fragile item shipping. Consider insuring the clock for its full value in case of accidents during transit.
Reassembling After Transport
Once the clock reaches its destination, carefully unpack and reassemble the parts.
Once the clock is safely in place, reattach the pendulum and any weights you previously removed. If the weights are labeled as L for left, C for center, and R for right, place the weights according to these labels.
Ensure the clock is level in its new position to avoid any mechanical issues.
Let the clock acclimatize to the new setting. After moving, allow the clock to settle before winding it or starting the movement.
Additional Tips
If you’re unsure about packing an antique clock on your own, consider hiring professional antique movers or packers who specialize in fragile and valuable items. Pass the cost onto the recipient.
A clock like this necessitates professional packing
Before disassembling, take photos of the clock in its current state to assist with reassembly and serve as documentation in case of damage.
After moving, inspect the clock for any issues. Minor adjustments to the pendulum or chime may be necessary.
By following these steps, you can protect your antique clock and ensure it reaches its destination intact. Proper packing and handling are the keys to preserving your clock’s historical and monetary value during transport.
That being said, I have had a few bad experiences with clocks that were poorly packed and arrived significantly damaged during shipping.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
One example is the Gustav Becker wall clock shown above. In 2016, after my retirement, my wife purchased the clock for me from the USA. Although it arrived damaged, I was able to repair it, and it continues to run well to this day.
Because of this experience, I am hesitant to buy clocks online that require shipping, as I worry they may be damaged in transit.
The Science Museum in London, England, is one of the city’s most iconic and popular museums, dedicated to inspiring a passion for science in visitors of all ages. Located in the South Kensington area, it is part of the Science Museum Group, which also includes other major museums in the UK.
The museum was founded in 1857 and has since grown into one of the world’s foremost institutions for the collection, preservation, and display of scientific, technological, and medical achievements. It boasts a vast collection of over 300,000 objects that chart the history of innovation and exploration in science and technology.
The Science Museum houses some of the most famous scientific artifacts in the world, including Stephenson’s Rocket (a pioneering early steam locomotive), the first jet engine, and a model of DNA.
Early steam engine (not the Rocket)
The museum is organized into several galleries, each focusing on a specific theme, and while it offers a wealth of experiences to its visitors, the area that captivated me the most was the horology section.
Horology Section | Measuring Time
The horology exhibit at the Science Museum in London, known as the “Measuring Time” gallery, is a fascinating display that showcases the evolution of timekeeping technology and the intricate craftsmanship of clocks and watches.
View of the gallery
The exhibit features an extensive collection of timepieces ranging from early mechanical clocks to modern wristwatches.
George Stratford, left, John May on the right
Among the highlights are medieval astronomical clocks, early pocket watches, and marine chronometers used for navigation.
Atmos clock 1955
A standout section is dedicated to the work of John Harrison, a self-taught clockmaker who solved the problem of longitude at sea with his marine chronometers. These are considered some of the most important timekeeping devices ever created, crucial for safe and accurate navigation.
John Harrison watch
The exhibit includes several ornate astronomical clocks that not only tell time but also track celestial events such as the phases of the moon and the positions of the stars. These clocks are masterpieces of both art and science.
Christopher Pinchbeck
The Clockmakers’ Company collection, one of the oldest in the world, is on display within the museum. It features a range of exquisite clocks and watches, many of which are beautifully decorated and demonstrate the high level of craftsmanship involved in horology.
Original desk from the Clockmakers’ Company
Throughout the exhibit, there are explanations of the technological advancements in timekeeping, from the invention of the pendulum clock by Christiaan Huygens to the development of quartz and atomic clocks. The exhibit explores how these innovations have impacted society, science, and industry.
Zimingzhong exhibit
The museum occasionally hosts temporary exhibits within the horology section that delve deeper into specific aspects of timekeeping, such as the influence of time on culture or the future of time measurement.
In the spring of this year (2024) a special exhibit of Zimingzhong clocks grabbed our attention. What is a Zimingzhong clock? It’s a clock that tells the time; moves, makes a musical sound, and has symbolic significance.
These clocks feature elaborate decorations and are typically made from materials like bronze, jade, or lacquered wood.
They reflect the rich artistic traditions and horological expertise of China.
Zimingzhong clocks are not just timekeeping devices but also serve as symbols of status and wealth. They are often considered art pieces, showcasing the skill of Chinese craftsmen.
From the mesmerizing horology section, where intricate timepieces and historic clocks showcase the artistry and precision of timekeeping, to the interactive exhibits that ignite curiosity and wonder, the British Science Museum offers an enriching experience for all.
Tower or Turret clock
Whether you’re exploring the evolution of scientific discoveries or marveling at the ingenuity behind groundbreaking inventions, the Science Museum provides a unique opportunity to appreciate the impact of science on our world and its role in shaping our future.
Thomas Tompion (baptized July 25, 1639– died, November 20th, 1713) was an English clockmaker and watchmaker, often referred to as the “Father of English Clockmaking.” He is renowned for his exceptional craftsmanship and significant contributions to the development of clockmaking during the late 17th and early 18th centuries.
In fact, Tompion is the most celebrated of all English clockmakers.
Thomas Tompion
Born in Bedfordshire from a family of blacksmiths he moved to London in 1671 and was soon employed by the physicist Robert Hooke. Hooke was credited as one of the first scientists to investigate living organisms at the microscopic level. Hooke introduced him to leading scientists and royalty and as a result, Tompion received commisssions from Charles II, William III, and Queen Anne.
His business was based on Water Lane, Fleet Street, and he built a reputation for quality and ingenuity across Europe.
Tompion tall case clock at the Britsh Science museum
Tompion’s clocks and watches were known for their accuracy, elegance, and innovative design. He played a key role in advancing the precision of timekeeping, particularly through his work on escapements and the introduction of the balance spring in watches, which greatly improved their accuracy.
Thomas Tompion time and strike tall case clock – the British Museum
Tompion produced a wide range of timepieces, including table clocks, longcase clocks, bracket clocks, and pocket watches.
His clocks were often highly decorative, featuring intricate engravings and fine materials.
Table or bracket clock made by Tompion for Queen Anne, British Science Museum
He was also a mentor to several important clockmakers, including George Graham, who later became a prominent figure in the field. Graham invented the deadbeat escapement, a crucial improvement over previous escapement designs, allowing for greater accuracy in clocks. Two clocks in my collection, an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton and a Seth Thomas #2have Graham deadbeat escapments.
Tompion was also Master of the Clockmakers’ Company from 1703 to 1704 (London). He made regulators for Greenwich Royal Observatory – one of the most prestigious commissions of his career.
While visiting the UK this spring, I stopped by Westminster Abbey, where Tompion is laid to rest.
Westminster Abbey
It is fitting that Graham is also buried in the same place.
Located at Westminster Cathedral
Tompion’s work is highly prized by collectors, and many of his clocks are now housed in museums and private collections around the world.
Having a Tompion clock would be a real treasure, but it’s far beyond my budget. The nearest I’ll get to a Tompion clock is seeing one in a museum.
My wife and I recently returned from a three-week vacation in the UK. Although the trip wasn’t specifically focused on clock museums and similar attractions, I still managed to gather a significant amount of information/photos about clocks.
Big Ben, perhaps the most famous tower clock in the world
Unfortunately, during our visit, a family member passed away, and I couldn’t keep up with my regular blog posts. I plan to catch up on those in the coming weeks.
An impressive display of clocks at the Science Museum in London
In the meantime, I plan to catch up on the emails that have accumulated during my absence and to add many more blog articles about my travels. Please be patient, and I will respond as soon as possible.
From time to time, I enjoy reflecting on the progress of my projects after a certain period.
Five years ago I acquired a Scottish clock at auction, fulfilling my long-held desire to add an antique tall-case clock to my collection. Reflecting on it now, the decision to purchase the clock proved to be a wise one, as it has operated almost flawlessly except for a minor issue which I will detail later in this article.
The clock proudly graces a landing in our home. The location is interesting because it faces six steps that ascend to the upper level of our home. Four years ago, when I shared a photo of it on a clock forum site, someone warned me about the possibility of tripping on the stairs one early morning and colliding with the clock. Although it hasn’t occurred, the thought occasionally crosses my mind.
Scottish tall-case clock
A description of the clock
It boasts a classic Scottish design dating back to the late 1840s. Its removable bonnet spans 23 inches at its widest point, while the waist measures 15 3/4 inches wide, and the base is 20 inches wide. Tapered columns adorn either side of the bonnet, with the dial access door covering the entire bonnet and swinging to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 x 24 inches.
Standing just under 90 inches tall, the clock nearly reaches the height of our 8-foot ceiling so placing it on the landing means there is plenty of clearance above it.
The well-preserved sheet iron white dial features painted spandrels depicting ewes with lambs, and a painted arch top showing a man resting on a rock with two working horses behind him, telling me that it might have been made for a wealthy Scottish sheep farmer.
A well-preserved dial
The cast-iron weights are 10 lbs 11oz and 11 lbs 3oz, with the heavier weight hung on the strike side. The pendulum and rod weigh 2 lbs 6oz, and the sheet iron dial is hefty at 5 lbs 3oz.
Although the movement plates are over 3mm thick, there is no visible maker’s mark. The robust movement, crafted in the Guild style, features an anchor escapement. These movements are commonly known as an “English bell strike”. Common in 19th-century England they were made by craftsmen who were members of guilds, such as The Worshipful Company of Clockmakers which exercised strict control over clock-making within a certain radius.
Time and strike movement (the spring on the lower left has been replaced)
The clock has a “false plate,” a cast-iron skeleton frame fastened to the front plate of the brass movement, with the dial attached to this frame. Stamped on the plate is “BIRMm,” referring to Birmingham, England, the birthplace of this time and strike movement.
The dial bears the names Wm McLachlan, Newton Stewart. Newton Stewart is a former burgh town in the historical county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland.
William (Wm) McLachlan, a clock and watchmaker in Newton-Stewart, Wigtownshire, advertised his business for sale on May 25, 1852, as listed in David Whyte’s book, “Clockmakers & Watchmakers of Scotland 1453 to 1900.” That is the extent of my research on Wm McLachlan. Of course, I would love to learn more about this clockmaker.
McLachlan also worked as an assembler, sourcing cases, dials, and movements for his customers according to their preferences. Rather than constructing clocks entirely in his shop, McLachlan purchased necessary parts from various manufacturers, finishing and assembling them before placing his name on the dial. He might have either crafted the cases himself or commissioned craftsmen to provide them as needed. This was a common practice during that era.
Since McLachlan operated a clock business he along with apprentcies/assitants, undoubtedly provided servicing for clocks within the local area.
The morning sun reflecting on the dial
One curiosity eludes me to this day. Despite featuring a calendar hand on the clock face, there is no functional calendar mechanism integrated with the movement. This suggests two potential scenarios: firstly, that the movement and dial were paired and assembled without a calendar function, or secondly, that the movement itself is a replacement.
All is not perfect
While the clock is reliable and has been an excellent timekeeper it suffers from one small flaw. On day six of the weekly cycle, the clock stops. As the weights descend to the level of the pendulum a harmonic phenomenon occurs. A harmonic phenomenon is defined as “a vibratory body responding to external vibrations to which it has a harmonic likeness”.
When the weights on a tall clock descend to the point where it’s at about the same height as the pendulum, the weights swing slightly. Since the power that drives the pendulum is now swinging the weights as well, the pendulum is robbed of its share of power and eventually stops. While this problem typically doesn’t arise with a new tall case clock, it’s a common issue when a clock ages. Despite a thorough cleaning and servicing of the movement, it’s apparent that some wear still persists.
To minimize sympathetic vibrations, I have secured the upper part of the clock case to the wall behind using a cable and additionally, I have inserted two small sponge blocks between the back of the case and the wall, aligning them with the pendulum bob’s height.
Nevertheless, after months of continuous vibration from the strike side, the sponge blocks slowly descend below the bob’s level, leading to the clock’s aforementioned behaviour. I might have to consider permanently securing the blocks in place with glue, although I am not particularly enthusiastic about this solution.
Despite the minor inconvenience, the clock has proven to be a reliable timekeeper and retains its pristine appearance, just as it did when I completed its restoration in my workshop five years ago.
For years, my wife and I have been on the hunt for an elusive Arthur Pequegnat Hall clock, a prized possession among Canadian collectors. Recently, I stumbled upon what seemed like the jackpot—a seemingly authentic piece advertised for a mere $100. However, as I explored the deal further, doubts crept in, casting a shadow over my potential bargain.
Join me on this intriguing journey as we uncover the secrets of a clock that may not be what it initially appeared to be.
It certainly looks like a weight-driven clock
The clock is closely reminiscent of Pequegnat’s craftsmanship. It was a tempting find but a closer inspection raised eyebrows. The clock hands seemed out of place (for a Pequegnat), and the overall workmanship did not quite match the renowned Pequegnat build quality. Could this have been a misstep in our quest, or was there more to this story?
Undeterred I made an over-the-phone offer of $90 and embarked on a 90-minute journey to claim what could be a gem in disguise. The seller warned of a non-functioning clock but sweetened the deal by mentioning that it had weights—only to reveal later that the weights were, in fact, fake. On top of that, a spring-driven New Haven mechanical movement lay beneath the surface.
New Haven time and strike movement
The weight cans were empty shells, and the decent-quality ladder chains with acorn pull ends were crudely strung to mimic a weight-driven movement.
Brass weight shells
Further investigation unveiled a raised platform supporting the movement, yet no traces of a seat board that usually accompanies weight-driven mechanisms. The clock’s peculiarities extended to a tied cord on the strike lever, adding to the mystery. As questions piled up, it became clear that this clock’s origins were far from conventional.
The movement is stamped 27. This could be a date stamp but it is more likely the length of the pendulum in inches. The movement plates are pinned rather than held with screws or nuts suggesting an older square-aperture type New Haven movement. Judging from the build of the movement I would say that it is earlier than 1927. The heavy, solid wood case which comes apart in three sections is certainly just as old.
I removed the movement from its case and mounted it on a test stand. The movement runs at 72 bpm, not quite the 60 bpm one would typically expect from a hall clock and the slower beat rate explains the long pendulum rod.
The only plausible explanation was clear: I had purchased a kit clock, where an independently crafted case had been paired with a New Haven movement, dial face, hands, accessory weight cans, and ladder chains with acorn pull ends. It was likely a more cost-effective means of acquiring a tall case clock back in the day.
In its new location
Despite the oddities, I had, after all, secured the clock at a reasonable price. Now, armed with the knowledge of its peculiarities, I am content with it. Servicing the movement and restoring the case have been completed and after having stood in my work area for a couple of years it was time to move it to its permanent location.
And it looks pretty good! The combination of the separately crafted case with the New Haven movement, dial face, hands, and the accessory weight cans and ladder chains with pull ends came together quite well, offering an appealing and budget-friendly tall case clock.
The lesson in all of this is that in the world of clock collecting, sometimes unexpected discoveries and not value and authenticity are the ones that leave a lasting impression.
During the Christmas season, there’s a special charm to antique clocks, each holding onto time’s precious moments. Imagine a room lit by soft twinkling lights, featuring a tall case clock as a proud symbol of craftsmanship spanning generations.
Tall case clock C.1848
As we get into the Christmas spirit, these old clocks go beyond being mere decorations; they connect us to the past, marking the holidays of days gone by.
Lego train set
The clock’s ticking signals the arrival of Christmas morning, a shared experience through the ages. This Christmas, let’s take a moment to appreciate the history held by these antique treasures. They’re more than just artifacts; they have witnessed the laughter, love, and warmth that define the season. If they could talk!
Decorated andwaiting for gifts
Amid carols and a crackling fireplace, may the ticking of antique clocks resonate with the essence of togetherness. Wishing you and your loved ones a Merry Christmas filled with the charm of past times and the anticipation of treasured moments yet to come.
Thank you for supporting my blog; it serves as a meaningful gift from you to me. Your support not only fuels my passion but also plays a crucial role in shaping the content and direction of the blog. I’m grateful for the encouragement and look forward to continuing this journey with you.
Every time I climb the stairs to the upper level of our residence, I find myself in awe of the clock perched on the landing. Crafted in 1848, it likely ticked away the hours for years in an upper-middle-class Scottish household, possibly owned by a farmer or landholder.
Scottish tall-case clock, Circa 1848
These old tall case clocks, which were built to withstand the test of time, stand in contrast to the throwaway culture of the modern world. They evoke a connection to a slower-paced past, providing a sense of calm.
A prominent dial
In November 2023 my wife and I traveled to Halifax, Nova Scotia (Canada) for an overnight stay and dinner out at a lovely Italian restaurant on Spring Garden Road followed by a play at the Neptune Center for Performing Arts.
La Frasca restaurant, Halifax, Nova Scotia
Upon our check-in at Lord Nelson Hotel and Suites, I observed an old stately clock tucked into a corner and commented to the front desk about the surprise of encountering a fully functional antique tall-case clock in a hotel lobby.
Unknown tall case clock
It’s noteworthy that this establishment, renowned for its classic allure, is recognized for serving a clientele that leans towards the more mature demographic, so an old antique clock did not seem out of place.
The clock face shows a three-train movement
Beyond their practical function, old clocks captivate us with their craftsmanship, and historical significance. They serve as links to the past, reflecting the artistry, engineering, and societal values of bygone eras. The mechanical simplicity offers a stark contrast to our complicated fast-paced digital age.
The tall clock that may be gracing your hallway or living room belongs to a bygone era. That sense of history and tradition seems to be missing in our modern world. In an era defined by fast-paced technological advancements and fleeting trends, the tall clock stands as a reminder of an earlier era when craftsmanship and longevity were paramount.
A grandfather clock
TheGrandfather Clock
A tall case clock is commonly referred to as a “grandfather clock” due to a story that dates back to the 19th century. The term “grandfather clock” is said to have originated from the song “My Grandfather’s Clock,” written by Henry Clay Work in 1876. This song tells the tale of a clock owned by the songwriter’s friend, and it played a significant role in popularizing the term.
Henry Clay Work was an American songwriter and composer known for capturing the spirit and emotions of the time. His greatest hit was “Marching Through Georgia” in 1865, a cheerful marching song.
The lyrics of My Grandfather’s Clock narrate the story of a long-case clock, or a tall case clock, that belonged to the songwriter’s friend’s grandfather. The clock worked perfectly throughout the grandfather’s lifetime but stopped working when he passed away. The song’s lyrics reflect the sentiment that the clock’s ticking was synonymous with the grandfather’s life, and the clock’s stillness upon his death was seen as a representation of his passing.
Over time, this sentimental and catchy song contributed to the popularization of the term “grandfather clock” as a synonym for a tall case clock. The term stuck, and now, tall case clocks are commonly referred to as grandfather clocks in many parts of the world.
Scottish tall-case clock
Tall Case and Long Case Clocks
However, horologists generally prefer using the terms “tall case clock”, “long case clock” or hall clock instead of “grandfather clock”. The difference in terminology between “tall case clock” in America and “long case clock” in England primarily arises from regional linguistic variations and historical usage.
Tall Case Clock (America): The term “tall case clock” is commonly used in the United States to describe this type of clock. This name emphasizes the clock’s design, which features a tall, vertical case that houses the clock’s movement and the pendulum. The term “tall case” is descriptive of the clock’s physical appearance, highlighting its height and elegant proportions.
Long Case Clock (England): In England, the term “long case clock” is more commonly used. This name also relates to the clock’s appearance, particularly its elongated and vertical shape. The term “long case” emphasizes the clock’s form, again highlighting its height and the distinctive design of the case. On the other hand, a Long case Regulator (Chronometer) is a precision clock known for its accuracy. It often features a simpler, more functional design with a focus on precision rather than ornate decoration.
The names simply reflect different ways of describing the same type of clock. Over time, these regional differences have become firmly established.
Hall clock (image by Openverse)
The Hall Clock
The term “hall clock” is also used in some parts of the world as an alternative to “grandfather clock,” “tall case clock,” or “long case clock.” This term, “hall clock,” emphasizes the placement of the clock in a hallway or entrance hall, which is a common location for these impressive and stately clocks.
While the “hall clock” might not be as widely recognized or used as the “grandfather clock” or “tall case clock,” its origin and usage can be traced to the same concept of describing these tall, freestanding clocks with long cases.
The term “hall clock” is descriptive and straightforward. The term continues to be used in some contexts, particularly in regions where the emphasis is on the clock’s placement and role within the home.
And lastly, a “grandmother clock” is a type of clock that is smaller than a “grandfather clock”.
Similar in design and functionality to its larger counterpart, the grandfather clock, a grandmother clock typically features a pendulum-driven movement enclosed within a vertical wooden case. The main distinction between a grandmother clock and a grandfather clock lies in their size. Grandmother clocks are generally shorter than grandfather clocks, standing around 5 to 6 feet tall, making them more suitable for spaces with limited room.
Despite their smaller size, they often retain the same elegant appearance and decorative features as their larger counterparts.
The term “grandmother clock” is less commonly used than “grandfather clock,” but it serves to describe this intermediate-sized clock that is more compact than the towering grandfather clock.
Different Phrases Express the Same Concept
The various terms used to describe this type of clock—such as “grandfather clock,” “grandmother clock”, “tall case clock,” “long case clock,” and even “hall clock”—all refer to the same basic type of clock: a freestanding weight-driven device with a tall vertical case housing the clock movement and pendulum.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.
DH writes
I am the executor of an estate and am dealing with a Grandfather clock that will be sold outside the normal auction process to one of the children. I have attached a picture of the clock and a description of the movement inside the clock. The clock was built by Hanson Heffler of Cherry Run, WV. He only built a couple of clocks and those were for family, so he is not a known clock builder. How can I get a valuation done for Estate purposes? What other information do I need to obtain? What fees will need to be paid to get the valuation? Any assistance you may provide is appreciated.
Custom clock with Mason and Sullivan movement
My reply
You are certainly entitled to consult an expert to determine the value of the clock, however, let me offer a few words of advice.
I am not a clock valuation expert and cannot physically inspect its construction, repair status, and overall condition and any estimate I offer from information provided to me by email regarding the clock’s value would be approximate.
The clock appears to be from the 1970s to the 1980s. While the case is custom-made, as you say, the movement is sourced from Germany which was very common during that period. The clock movement may say Mason and Sullivan but the maker is Hermle of Germany. Mason and Sullivan simply put their stamp on it suggesting to the buyer that it is American-made. Whether a clock was custom-made or factory produced as in grandfather clocks from Howard Miller or Ridgeway during that period, for example, the practice was to install German-made movements which is not a bad thing since German-made movements are robust and reliable.
Movement is stamped Mason and Sulivan
That said, many of these clocks are difficult to sell because nobody wants them for a number of reasons. One, they generally cost more to repair than they are worth. If the clock has not been serviced in quite some time, at the very least the movement would require inspection and oiling by a professional clock repair person. In addition, ongoing repairs and maintenance can add up over time. Two, they take up space. Homes are typically smaller today and space is often at a premium and the size of the clock often puts off buyers. Three, transporting and setting up these clocks can pose a challenge if the buyer lacks the familiarity with setup. Four, the clock has a period look and may not fit with the style of a modern home or may clash with other furnishings.
If the clock does not have a distinct history (provenance) or the maker is not highly regarded, its value will be significantly lower than the original purchase price.
Typically a clock of this style and vintage would fetch something in the neighbourhood of $500 to $600.
While it is recommended to seek the advice of an expert to obtain an accurate valuation of the clock, their estimate may not deviate significantly from the one I have given.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.
It is important to respond to emails from interested visitors, as it not only cultivates a sense of community and engagement with my audience but also facilitates the establishment of relationships with individuals who share similar interests.
JB did not provide a photo but here is a Ridgeway clock from the 1990s
JB writes:
Just wanted to contact you for your professional opinion on a Grandfather clock I’ve been lucky enough to find for sale for $1500.00, it’s in near mint condition and works, it’s my understanding that the first 2 digits of the serial number is the year made if that’s true then it was made in 1986 listed is the information I have on the clock:
Ridgeway A.L. Latham Grandfather Clock
Dial Pg
Finish OKM3 U5
Setups 080586
Model 273
Registered Serial # 86036698
I have always want one and love to listen to them tic and chimes so based on what I’ve mention can you please tell me anything about this clock and if that is a good purchase value?
Thanks very much for any information you can share on this!
My response:
Hi and thanks for your email. The 1980s is correct judging from the last two digits. I would exercise a little caution on the price. If it was a particularly high end clock at the time it might be well worth the asking price but grandfather clocks of that period, the 1980s, have trouble fetching $500 to $1000 in today’s market.
The movements in these clocks do not last forever and if it has never been serviced it may already be very worn. Servicing, which involves taking the movement apart, addressing wear issues, reassembling and testing might be in the region of $400 or much more. If the clock has been serviced in the last year or two and the seller can provide receipts you can be assured that it will run reliably for a number of years. If the movement has been replaced recently with a brand new one (and that is not a bad thing) you can also expect years of reliable service.
For an unserviced clock of this vintage I would definitely haggle but even if serviced I would still haggle.
JB replied
I really appreciate your advice on the clock I mentioned in the email. Not knowing anything about something so tedious can be concerning especially when it is an item you’ve wanted to purchase. I did past the information on to the seller so she knows what she has because she too knows nothing about the clock only that it belonged to her late husband.
Since winning this tall-case clock at auction in the spring of 2020 I have been intrigued about its origin. The information provided at the time was that it was made in Scotland or England in or around the mid-1800s but it could not have been made after 1852 as I will explain later.
Its features suggest the mid-1800s although there is nothing on the clock that tells me anything about the exact year it was made.
It is a classic Scottish design from the era. It is fairly nondescript and lacks the fine craftsmanship of other tall-case clocks of the period but it has attractive lines.
It has an English rack and snail bell strike movement. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24. The weights are 10 and 11 pounds as one would expect.
To appreciate the size of the clock at almost 90 inches, it just about reaches our 8-foot ceiling.
The day it was brought home
On the dial is the name Wm McLachlan, and the town, Newton Stewart. William (Wm) McLachlan is a clockmaker. In his book, Clockmakers & Watchmakers of Scotland 1453 to 1900 David Whyte lists McLachlan, William, clock & watchmaker in Newton-Stewart, Wigtownshire as a business advertised for sale on 25 May 1852, with no reason why it was offered for sale and nothing more about his life.
Newton-Stewart is a former town in the historic county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland.
Perhaps rather than a clockmaker per se, McLachlan was an assembler/retailer and sourced cases, dials, and movements for his customers according to their wishes. Rather than build a clock from the ground up in his own shop, it was more cost-effective, even in the mid-1800s, to locate parts from various sources.
For example, the dial, hands, and movement were made in Birmingham, England and the case was very likely locally made by a joiner or wood craftsman. It is also quite possible that the painted dial originated in Birmingham as Birmingham was well-known at the time for its dial painters.
The clockmaker then assembled the parts, completed the final finishing, added finials, lock and knobs, weights, and pendulum, fine-tuned the movement, and placed his name and the location of the town on the dial.
What does the shepherd and sheep theme on the dial mean? The clock was presumably made for a well-to-do Scottish sheep farmer. I can only imagine the magnificent striking sound of this clock in a farmers’ home during the 1850s or so and the stories it could tell.
The tombstone of William McLachlan, (appears to be a more modern one erected by family?)
More about McLachlan
William McLachlan was born in 1799 in Penninghame, Wigtownshire, Scotland, and presumably operated a clockmaking business or clock shop in Newton Stewart in his thirties and forties, and finally while in his early fifties sold his business in 1852.
I had assumed that he either retired in the Newton Stewart area or passed away prior to the sale date but I have recently discovered that he emigrated to the USA prior to 1861. His tombstone is located in Jersey City, New Jersey, USA. He was 77 when he passed away on December 8th, 1876 and his wife Mary Crichton died in 1891 at age 84.
Scottish tall case clock restored and on display in my home
McLachlan’s wife was 7 years younger so let us assume they married when he was in his late twenties and she in her late teens or early twenties. Could he have been operating a business at that time? Did they have children? If so, why was the business not carried on by a son? And why the newer tombstone? Family, sons, daughters?
According to Scottish birth records McLachlan was living in Penninghame, Scotland in 1841. A William McLachlan from the same area is listed in the 1851 census but at 57 years old (an error perhaps?) and I cannot find a William McLachlan (who would have been 62) in the 1861 Scottish census. Did he and his wife leave for the USA sometime during the 10-year period between 1851 and 1861?
Whether he carried on clockmaking in the USA after his arrival is a mystery. If he did, there may be American sources I can explore further.
Many tall case clocks came over the ocean from Scotland and England but how this particular clock made its way to Canada is also a mystery.
Free records databases have their limitations and I am not willing to pay for a subscription for what might lead to a dead end but I will continue to do a little more digging and we’ll see what I can unearth.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
PS writes;
I have a 35+ year old Ridgeway Tall Case “Sussex” clock that was severely damaged in transit. It is my parents 35th wedding anniversary gift to themselves from back in the mid 80’s. They have both passed and I inherited it. It was shipped from Chicago to Phoenix where I live last month and when it arrived it was crushed pretty severely. All of the weights are dented and scuffed, the face is detached from the case and the case itself was all but destroyed.
Similar to the Sussex
The carrier is requiring me to get a detailed repair estimate, which I am more than happy to pay you for. The insurance on the freight was $3500.00 and was one of the highest policies available. Now they want a detailed breakdown estimate for repairs, which will likely exceed the 3500.00 it is insured for.
Can you please help me with this? And if you could, I would be happy to pay for your estimating services.
Please let me know so I know how to proceed.
My reply:
As I am not a professional appraiser all I can do is give some advice.
I am sorry to tell you that while your Sussex clock may have cost your parents $3500 in the 1980s it is worth far less today. I have a similar model in my dining room. It is in excellent condition but it is worth no more than $500CDN. They are simply not collectible and grandfather clocks generally are not sought after unless they have historical value or a special provenance. You will be paying many more times what it is worth to repair it. Although for sentimental reasons the cost may not be important.
I have two suggestions. One, take whatever money you can get from the carrier without having to justify a breakdown of the cost. The carrier is engaging in a stall technique and may not even agree with any appraisal you submit to them. In other words take the money and run.
My second suggestion is to find another Ridgeway Sussex (or similar model) and marry the best parts of the two clocks. Chances are you will have good weights, and good glass etc. from the replacement clock. A replacement Sussex (or similar model) should not cost more than $500 and may well be much cheaper. It will take some looking around but they do come up on auction or for-sale sites occasionally.
Clock face showing moon dial
I have another bit of advice. Your grandfather clock movement (the mechanical works) is at the end of or near the end of its service life. The movements in these clocks were generally designed to last about 25 years. It may last longer but it is living on borrowed time. They can be repaired ($$$) but replacing the movement is more cost effective.
In 2020, my wife and I purchased a Scottish tall case clock at a live auction. It had been on our wish list for years, and it checked all the right boxes—tall, stately, attractive, with an easy-to-repair movement and very little missing. However, we later realized that not everything was as perfect as it seemed, and the clock required a bit of tender loving care.
Not a single person in the auction hall showed interest in the clock, and we managed to acquire it for $270 plus fees and taxes. While it’s unfortunate that it went for such a low price, tall-case clocks aren’t in particularly high demand at the moment, and with space constraints in smaller homes today, it’s understandable why they might not appeal to everyone.
It may not be apparent from the photo below, taken that day in the auction hall, but the clock had been neglected for a long time and required a significant amount of work.
At the auction house
The work included repairing the movement and refinishing and repairing a very tired case. However, it was a great learning experience and a true labour of love.
After the movement was repaired, testing continued for weeks, involving small adjustments and waiting for a new suspension spring, pendulum rod, and stake.
Sympathetic Vibration Definition
During testing, I encountered a consistent problem. On day six of the weekly cycle, the clock would stop. As the weights descended to the level of the pendulum a harmonic phenomenon occurred that is defined as “a formerly passive string or vibratory body responding to external vibrations to which it has a harmonic likeness”.
English bell strike movement
When the weights on a tall clock descend to the point where it’s at about the same height as the pendulum, the weights swing slightly. Since the power that drives the pendulum is now swinging the weights as well, the pendulum does not get its share of power and eventually stops.
I addressed the sympathetic vibration by anchoring the clock stand to a wall. What that enough?
Just after the movement was repaired and in its case, the pendulum had just enough over-swing to compensate for the moving weights and the clock would soldier on. But after two years and a little bit of wear, the clock stops at the point where the pendulum is at the same level as the weights.
Sympathetic vibration can often be addressed in a tall case clock by fastening the upper part of the case to the wall, or by mounting the case on a solid foundation avoiding anything soft such as a carpet.
But other measures can be taken if the problem persists.
Scottish tall-case clock
The Solution to the Stoppage
I had attached an anti-tipping wire between the wall and the clock case, thinking it would prevent sympathetic vibration. For a time, it worked, but eventually, the issue resurfaced.
Sponge block illuminated with a flashlight
The solution came in the form of protective packaging from an Amazon delivery—dense black foam blocks placed behind each side of the clock case, at the same height as the pendulum. Occasionally, I have to reposition the blocks, as the vibrating action of the strike causes them to slowly fall over time.
Everything is now put right and this beautiful tall-case clock assembled by William McLachlan from Newton Stewart, Scotland now runs its full cycle without that annoying stop at the six-day point.
Ah, the holiday season is upon us, what to buy? Are you are looking for a unique gift for a friend or family member. An antique clock may not be anything you have considered but wouldn’t it make a terrific gift.
Mauthe time and strike wall clockfrom 1895
If you know a little about antique or vintage clocks or you know nothing at all, you may need some help finding the right clock for that special person. I will give you a few pointers plus an explanation of some of the terms you may come across.
Why buy an antique or vintage clock?
A year ago I sold a clock to a young woman who was looking for a unique gift for her father. She responded to my advertisement by saying that it was exactly the clock she was looking for because it reminded her of the family clock when she was young.
Sentimental reasons, satisfying the need to acquire anything antique, or the uniqueness of an old mechanical clock top the list for reasons to buy an old clock.
What is the difference between antique and vintage?
It is not easy to tell the age of a clock, or, for that matter, anything in an antique store and, ads for clocks seldom tell the year it was produced although it might hint at the period it was made, for example, “mid-century”. A quick trip through the world of Google will give you a general sense of how old something is give or take a few years.
Vintage Kienzle wall clock from the 1930s
An antique is anything over 100 years old and vintage is less than 100 years but more than 30 years old. Anything that is less than 30 years old may be considered vintage but more often called collectible.
Mechanical or something else
This article focuses on mechanical clocks but there are a lot of different types of clocks out there and online auction sites are filled with every type imaginable. It can be confusing to the shopper.
As a general rule quartz clocks have limited value and very few would be considered collectible.
Electro-mechanical clocks have a traditional mechanical movement, which keeps time with an oscillating pendulum or balance wheel powered through a gear train by a mainspring but uses electricity to rewind the mainspring with an electric motor or electromagnet. Something quite different is the electro-magnetic clock, popular in the 1950s. Both types can be highly desirable but leave that to the professional collector who knows specifically what they are looking for.
In the 1930s electric shelf, desk and wall clocks were introduced into homes everywhere. Some have value but most are not worth the trouble.
Sessions 3W electric table clock 1927
They are great timekeepers but are often quite worn, dangerous to work on, and can be difficult to repair. I would not give one as a gift unless you know that it was serviced by a competent professional.
My advice is to stick to an antique or vintage mechanical clock.
One last note; beware of conversions, clocks where the mechanical movement was taken out for whatever reason and replaced by a quartz movement. They are worthless but some people fall for this sinful and deceptive practice.
Type of clock and placement
Space is the biggest consideration.
Antique Seth Thomas alarm clock from around 1910
In the trend towards smaller homes, there is not always space for a clock. Mantel clocks require a shelf or table to put them on.
Simple time-only or time and strike clocks can be quite small but others may have more a complicated Westminster chime movement in a larger case. Alarm and desk clocks occupy the least space.
This 1917 Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator is 51 inches long
Wall clocks are easier to place. Wall clocks come in all shapes and sizes from the diminutive cuckoo clocks to large box clocks and Vienna regulators.
Floor clocks, otherwise called grandfather or grandmother clocks, tall case, long case or hall clocks are the most difficult to place. Unless the person in mind would appreciate one and has sufficient floor space I would not recommend one.
Working or non-working clock?
A working clock that has been recently serviced by a competent clock repairer is the most desirable. However, if the clock will be a decoration or part of the decor and a working clock is unimportant, you might find them less expensive to purchase. Perhaps one with a replacement quartz movement might be okay as long as you know that’s what you are getting.
Clockbuying tips
1990s Ridgeway grandfather clocktakes up space
Look for a working clock over a non-working one. Chances are it has been better cared-for over its life span.
Facebook Marketplace, eBay, your local online for-sale site (we have kijiji in Nova Scotia), reputable estate auction sites, antique stores and word of mouth are among the best sources.
Most common clocks are priced reasonably. Clock prices have generally fallen over the last 5 years but expect to pay more for rare clocks or those with a special provenance.
Stay away from Chinese made or Korean clocks or most anything that has directional arrows around the winding points. They have very powerful mainsprings and will potentially harm the user if the springs break.
The maker of the clock is largely unimportant. For example, all American clock producers made cheaper and more expensive lines of clocks.
A little research is always helpful before you make the purchase. A little knowledge might be a dangerous thing but knowing nothing is worse.
It may or may not be important to you if the clock has been altered in any way but it is nice to know. For example, many old ogee clocks are attractive but have had a replacement movement installed when the old one failed. In the clock world these are called marriages and it makes a difference to some people.
Try to inspect the clock in person before you buy. Surprises are never nice when you discover something sent to you is not what you expected.
Well, if you are looking for a clock for that special person I hope I have given you something to think about before you put your money down.
I should say that I am not in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to keep my collection manageable.
What is ideal is one clock stand for servicing and testing all clock movements but unfortunately, there are so many different types and styles of movements that one size does not fit all.
I have written an article or two on test stands in the past but consolidating all my testing stands into one article might help the reader decide which one would work best for them.
Testing the Kienzle movement on a makeshift test stand
For the first one, I made a makeshift test stand out of scrap wood and what I like about this one is that if I require more holes to mount a movement, I could simply drill them where I need them. But I also like the idea of using it for those mantel clocks and small wall clock movements with seat boards.
HAC movement
This particular one has clamps so, mounting a movement is very easy since each clamp has a center horizontal groove. Once the height has been set, simply screw the clamps into the vertical rod. It takes seconds to mount a movement. The brackets are adjustable to about 10 inches.
Junghans B11 movement on the test stand
This test stand, called “Gene’s clock testing stand”, is very versatile. The movement can be mounted as I have done in the photo or bolts can be inserted through clock plates and into the cutouts as in the photo below.
Same as above with an extension
This is the same Gene’s stand as above but made for longer pendulum leaders. The home-made extension measures 18 1/4″ high by 9″ deep by 9 1/4″ wide. The bottom part is adjustable and fully detachable.
Clock stand for tall case movements
Finally, this is a 48″ stand for hall clocks or grandfather clock movements. It can accommodate two or three movements but I do not work on more than one tall case movement at a time. When used for testing purposes I anchor the stand to a wall to help eliminate sympathetic vibrations.
Clock stand rails
The stand is made of pine while the rails are constructed of yellow oak.
Every horologist should have at least one or more sturdy clock stands for testing clock movements.
Once you begin working on clock movements in earnest you will learn that a testing stand is indispensable and as you repair more movements one type will not be sufficient.
The final step in the repair/restoration of my tall case clock are the top finials. This clock had top corner finials at one point in its life. There is evidence that something was there on either side of the crown. I have no idea what they might have looked like but judging from photos of many tall case clocks of the 1850s period they were likely a brass ball type.
My first sight of the clock in a corner of an auction house
It is a classic Scottish tall case design from the 1850s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24. The clock stands approximately 84 inches.
In February 2020 my wife was perusing an online auction house looking for interesting bargains and noticed a 170-year-old Scottish tall case offered for bidding.
Over the past couple of years we had talked about acquiring an antique tall case clock but those we liked were either well beyond our reach or required extensive repairs so, here was a unique opportunity.
Though we had only auction photos to go by, the clock looked intriguing and was very much what we had in mind. We began our bidding low and managed to win the bid with a decent and acceptable (to us) price.
Tall case clocks have dropped dramatically in price over the past few years; nobody wants them and they do not fit the modern minimalist lifestyle of the young today. Besides, where would you put it?
Tucked into the corner of the auction house
The clock was not without issues nor did I expect it to be problem-free. The case required some structural work and the overall finish was dull and lifeless.
This article concerns my initial impressions and assessment of the movement prior to cleaning and dis-assembly.
Movement as found
What was I up against in terms of servicing the movement? What kind of issues would I find and did I have the skills to address those issues?
My preliminary assessment involved setting up the movement, connecting the weights, and performing some tests. After putting the clock in beat I managed to have it running for about a day.
while the time side ran well the strike side was another matter. Attaching the weight to the strike side produced a run-on strike until the power was depleted. Hmm, something serious or simply a minor adjustment?
Back of clock showing the crutch, bell, and hammer
While I have worked on dozens of English, German and American time and strike movements, this was my first attempt at an English bell strike. They are relatively easy to dis-assemble and re-assemble but are notorious for being temperamental. The greatest challenge is not the cleaning of the components or the reassembly, it is achieving long term reliability as a dozen parts threaten to hang up, split, or fall apart. Wear combined with scars from old repairs challenge any clockmaker.
First impressions
It is a very heavy movement with 3mm plates and large well-engineered components. These movements were designed to run reliably for years but 170 years and a history of cumulative repairs leaves one with a movement that can fail in many unexpected ways.
Looking at the escapement from above
Problem areas/issues
Enlarged pivot holes: I am reluctant to bush every pivot hole but upon inspection at least 3 bushings are required and possibly a fourth.
Repaired rack tail: The rack tail takes quite a beating. Once the rack is released during the strike sequence it drops with a bang on the snail. Years of banging ultimately results in a damaged and often repaired tail. The fix on this movement is ugly but the question is, is it robust enough to continue doing its job?
Homemade rack tail spring: Made from copper wire; there is too much tension causing the rack tail to strike the snail with too much force. A new rack spring has been ordered. In the meantime, I am using a thinner spring wire.
Worn gathering pallet: Assess and determine functionality.
Loose clicks: Loose clicks are a common issue with English bell strike clocks. The clicks on this movement are loose though the strike side is a little tighter than the time side. Both are functional. Should they be replaced or will they continue to function reliably as-is?
Loose crutch The crutch rod connecting to the escape wheel arbour has been adjusted too many times. It is loose and must be addressed.
Stiff Suspension spring: The suspension spring is the incorrect thickness and fashioned from a piece of a metal ruler! There is little amplitude. A new suspension spring assembly, pendulum rod, spike and hex nut have been ordered.
Bent rack: If it is soft steel it can be bent back to its original position. If it is hardened steel it could break if I tried to bend it.
Loose bell connection: Bell has been removed many times and the thread for the bell rod end where it connects to the cast iron bell, is stripped.
Missing seconds hand: Ordered
Calendar hand not connected: The movement has no calendar function. The face has a calendar hand and while the movement has no calendar wheel the movement is period correct. Was the movement replaced early in the clock’s life or was the clock originally built and assembled without a calendar function? That will remain one of the clock’s mysteries.
The cables are brass and they look old: I will make decision whether or not they should be replaced.
Side view showing the main wheel and the time train
And this ends part I. In the next part, dis-assembly and re-assembling the movement will be covered so, stay with me as we explore this movement further in Part II.
Restoring the case of an 1850s period Scottish tall case clock with an English bell strike is the subject of this blog. This is Part II of a two-part series. Check out Part I here.
While the case was made in Scotland, the movement, dial and weights are all from Birmingham, England made at or before 1850. The clock was in fair condition when I bought it from an estate auction early in 2020, though I knew almost immediately that structural repairs and cosmetic fixes were necessary. My work was cut out for me.
It is rare to find a clock from this period that has not been subject to minor or even major repairs/changes over the years, some acceptable, others questionable
In Part I, I addressed age cracks, a cracked backboard and attaching a backboard to the waist section. In this, Part II, I will continue with installing new door pins, fashioning a missing right rear foot, cleaning the case and overall case refinishing.
New door pins
Both upper and lower door pins were missing. I considered what I would use as pins. Wood screws could work.
I cut the heads off two 3/4 inch steel wood screws and threaded each screw into the existing holes at the top and bottom of the frame. They are more than strong enough to hold the bonnet access door and appear authentic.
I learned that the poured cement on my basement floor is not level. It took me a 1/2 hour of crawling on the basement floor to find a perfectly level area
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