Pequegnat Jewel Dial Restoration | A Case For Inpainting | Part I

As I continue to build my Pequegnat clock collection, I always seize a good deal when I find one, and the Jewel was too good to pass up. You might be wondering, what exactly is a Pequegnat clock and where does the Jewel fit into their model lineup?

A Pequegnat clock refers to clocks produced by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, a renowned Canadian manufacturer active from 1904 to 1941 in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. These clocks are celebrated for their quality craftsmanship and distinct place in Canadian horological history. Pequegnat clocks were a common feature in many Canadian homes.

I now have twelve Pequegnat clocks in my collection, consisting of several mantel clocks and three wall clocks.

In 2018, I purchased a Pequegnat Simcoe clock from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia, for nearly $200—a price I found fair at the time. More recently, I came across the Jewel model in an antique shop just 20 minutes from home. Though it was perched on a high shelf, I recognized it instantly. Given its significantly lower price, I couldn’t resist adding it to my collection.

_{An excellent price for a Pequegnat mantel clock}

The case dimensions of both are exactly the same and each has the earlier Berlin-style piecrust dial.

Three features differentiate the Jewel from the Simcoe. First, the Jewel was a less expensive clock. It is likely one of the least expensive mantel clocks in the Pequegnat mantel clock lineup, offering a more affordable option for many Canadian families.

Secondly, the Jewel lacks the lion’s head side handles and decorative feet found on the Simcoe.

Third, although the movement is identical to the Simcoe, the Jewel has a smaller gong block. A smaller gong block would still produce sound, but with a less resonant tone, which was considered an acceptable tradeoff for keeping production costs lower.

Condition of the dial

Unfortunately, the dial on the Jewel has been completely stripped of its paint. I’m willing to accept a dial with some imperfections—after all, the paint on the Simcoe’s dial is flaking, but that’s part of its aging process and what gives it its antique character.

However, a dial completely stripped of its paint, aside from the chapter ring and numerals, is unsightly and distracting. I completely understand why this was done. More expensive Pequegnat clocks featured enamel dials, while the more common models had painted dials, which are prone to flaking after many years and this clock must have had extensive paint loss.

While some might have left the dial as it was, viewing it as part of the clock’s history, the extent of the modification made it impossible for me to leave it as is. The fact that the clock only cost me $45 also made me more willing to take the risk to remediate the dial.

Repainting a dial is usually a last resort for me, and I wouldn’t recommend it unless you have steady hands, plenty of patience, the necessary materials, or the option to outsource the work to an artist friend or an expert. Outsourcing might be a good choice, particularly for dials with sentimental value, as it ensures the work is handled with precision and care by an expert. Preserving the integrity and charm of a cherished clock often warrants entrusting the work to skilled hands such as The Dial House.

Some time ago, I restored the dial on a Seth Thomas clock using a technique called inpainting, and I was very pleased with the results. I also touched up the dial to a Pequegnat Canuck shelf clock with very satisfactory results.

A decision was made

As I considered my options, I decided that if the inpainting did not turn out as planned, I could always order a paper dial from an eBay supplier and place it over the original.

_{The paint was painstakingly scraped away, but the result was far from pleasing}

However, the cost of the dial alone would exceed what I paid for the clock. Besides, I’m not particularly fond of paper dials.

I know that once I’m done with the dial, my artistic “talent” will be apparent upon close inspection. However, I’m confident it will be an improvement over its current state.

To carry out this procedure, the hands, dial/bezel must be removed. There are just two screws at 3 and 9 o’clock that hold the dial assembly in place. Once the assembly is removed, the glass and its bezel can be separated from the dial and set aside.

Once the dial was removed, I cleaned the stripped surface with isopropyl alcohol. It evaporates quickly and leaves no residue, and since the dial had no remaining paint aside from the chapter ring and numerals, I wasn’t concerned about damaging the finish and simply worked around the painted areas.

The dial was likely originally white but had aged to a darker cream color over time. To recreate this, I mixed a touch of canary yellow with cotton ball white to achieve the perfect shade. I used both a broad artist’s brush and a fine-point detail brush to apply the first coat. Multiple coats are necessary, but the first coat needs to be cured before adding another.

I’m using water-based acrylic paint, which is self-sealing and becomes permanent when baked at low heat however, this dial will not be spending time in an oven. Once another coat or two is applied I can use a pointed tip detail brush to reshape the numerals using black paint.

The first coat is acceptable, though a bit blotchy due to the uneven spread of paint across the dial. The tin was very visible, so I knew that more than one coat would be necessary.

I mixed the yellow and white paint the same way for the second coat, this time adding a touch of chocolate brown.

However, the bare metal is still visible, indicating that at least one or possibly two more coats will be needed. I’m considering going a shade darker for the next layer by adding a touch more brown, but I’ll take some time to think it over before deciding. I’m starting to notice a lovely transformation in the dial, shifting from its stark tin appearance to a more pleasing shade of cream.

That wraps up Part I of this two-part series. In Part II, coming in the new year, I’ll continue the restoration process by applying additional coats to the dials and refining the numerals and chapter ring. Stay tuned!

December 20, 2024

Fleet Time mantel clock – Mainspring damage

The Fleet Time Co. was a short-lived Canadian clock company that operated between the years 1936 and 1940 producing a range of two and three-train mantel clocks with movements sourced from Germany. All clocks had pendulums and were spring-driven. According to the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario, the company was listed as an importer of clocks and watches. The locations were 440 McGill and then 303 St. Paul West, Montreal (Canada).

The Second World War took a heavy toll on this company as the source of movements dried up and so the future prospects of this small company. Why they did not source movements from France and Germany like the Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto and others during the war years and beyond is anyone’s guess. Perhaps the margins were slim or alternate suppliers could not be found. That and the increasingly popular electric clock doomed the company.

Wood cases were made in Canada for some models while other cabinets were imported from Germany.

Of the two Fleet clocks in my collection one is this two-train clock with an unknown German movement and the other a Westminster chime mantel clock with a German Gufa movement. For more on the Gufa clock go here.

This clock is in much the same condition as my first Fleet clock, dents, gouges and scratches everywhere. Unfortunately, the tinted lacquer finishes on these old clocks do not survive well over time. It is one reason they attract little attention and sell for almost nothing despite having movements that are relatively strong runners.

Fleet Time clock — Fleet Time time and strike mantel clock, broken glass

It is a plain, generic mantel clock with a walnut finish, flat front, a slightly domed top, and step-side features on outboard feet. The dial is heavily tarnished and the glass bezel that should be soldered to the chapter ring has detached. These bezels often go missing. At least it came with the clock.

The clock strikes on 3-rods producing a bim-bam sound, just loud enough so as not to be too intrusive.

The location of the star striking wheel on the movement is somewhat unusual. Commonly found between the plates, the star wheel is on the outside of the rear plate.

Fleet time barrel — Damaged Fleet Time barrel

As I have said in a previous article the barrel and second wheel on the time side were damaged during servicing. I don’t know who the maker is and I would appreciate any information to aid me in my search for a donor movement. The case has been reconditioned, with the addition of a dial and bezel from an old Blackforest Clock Co. clock.

Fleet Time case ready for repaired or replaced movement

It is a nice piece of Canadian horological history that I would like to see running.

August 11, 2021

Fleet Time mantel clock with Gufa movement – servicing the movement

About a year ago I picked up two clocks. I had my eye on one, an Arthur Pequegnat Canuck shelf clock, and the other was “thrown in” as part of the deal. We completed the transaction on the Pequegnat clock and the seller asked me if I wouldn’t mind looking at a mantel clock stored on a shelf in his garage. He said, “for $10 more you can have this”. I did not know the make at the time but for $10, why not! It was in sad condition as you can see in the next photo.

A tin plate affixed on the back of the clock told me what it was made by the Fleet Time Company of Montreal (Canada).

Many of these clocks were sold at department stores across Canada during the pre-war (WWII) era. However, this little-known Canadian clock company had a brief life span. Between 1936 and 1940 the company produced a range of two and three-train mantel clocks with movements sourced from Germany but were forced to end their operations when the war began.

The Second World War took a heavy toll on this company as the source of movements dried up and so did the company’s fortunes.

Wood cases were made in Canada for some models while other cabinets were imported from Germany.

Servicing the movement

I had completed work on the case a few months ago and now it is time to service the movement.

The clock has a Gufa Westminster chime movement. Gufa is the Guetenbacher Uhrenfabrik, located in Gütenbach, Germany. They manufactured 400-day clocks, cuckoo-clocks and later they became the “Jahresuhrenfabrik” (August Schatz & Sons in Triberg, Germany). Gufa is not a name horologists come across very often in North American. There is a chime gear patent date number ending in 34 which likely refers to the year 1934 indicating manufacture between 1935 and 1939. It is a solid, well-built movement.

Assessment of the movement

I had replaced the time mainspring shortly after I bought the clock but I knew that I would eventually have the movement on the workbench. As is typical of German clocks of this period in that the mainspring barrels can be removed without dismantling the movement, so, replacing the time mainspring was an easy fix.

The clock was running, though not well. On the fourth or fifth day, the chimes (and strike) would stop though the time train would soldier on a few days more. Wear issues on the strike and chime train had to be addressed.

I disassembled the movement, put the parts into the ultrasonic cleaner, and discovered afterwards that the plates had been lacquered. With the ultrasonic heat setting on, the lacquer stripped off but not uniformly. As it is a $10 clock I am not concerned about aesthetics.

Fleet wheels — Fleet movement wheels tied together according to location

To eliminate the chance that I would mix up the wheels for the 3 trains, I tied each set together. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner I untied them and placed them in their respective trays. Westminster chime movements have similar-looking gears in the three trains and it is best to separate them to avoid frustration during re-assembly.

After inspecting the movement I determined that new bushings were required on the second wheels plus the motion works arbour. Three of the second wheels on the backplate, one bushing for the strike side second wheel front plate, and one for the motion works for a total of 5 new bushings; not bad for a 3-train movement. These are the typical wear points on three-train movements as the second wheels handle the greatest load.

Bushing work

Once the pivot holes were pegged out and the wheels rechecked in their locations, the bushing begins. Aside from the second wheels, most other pivot holes were in good shape. I don’t often use bushings with an outside diameter of 4.50mm but this movement required 4 in total. All bushings had to be reamed out with a cutting broach followed by a smoothing broach. All wheels were test fit with the plates together and things looked good.

Reassembly

Next is reassembly. With so many wheels it is a bit trickier than a two-train movement but it is important to work slowly and carefully to avoid a bent pivot. Once the wheels are positioned, test each train to check that everything is in place. After the nuts are tightened, the remaining parts such as the locking plate, chime locking lever, warning lever, rack snail, mainspring barrels and so on are installed/attached.

Testing

Of all movements, three trains are the most difficult to set up correctly. Although all three trains spin independently they are interconnected by levers. In order for everything to function in unison, careful attention must be paid to the job of each lever, what it does and how it performs its function every 15 minutes.

Gufa movement, front plate showing rack, snail, levers, and so on

Everything went fairly smoothly. Both the strike side and chime side go into warning as they should, the locking plate stops the chime at each quarter-hour including the hour, which is a good sign the locking hook on the chime train is in the correct position.

The chime strike lever is, however, sticking on the strike warning pin. Without taking the movement apart I used 1600 grit memory paper to smooth the hook end surface where it meets the strike warning wheel pin. The polishing allowed it to function a little better but continued testing revealed that that solution did not work. I finally had to remove the chime strike lever and polish the hook. the polishing was successful.

The next issue is the strike paddle which is ending the strike sequence hanging off one of the star points. The plates on the strike side must be opened up and the paddle repositioned. For safety reasons and to preserve the mechanism should things go awry, the power is let down on all mainsprings. Adjustments such as these come with the territory as nothing should be expected to work perfectly the first time.

After the aforementioned adjustments are made, next is the chime sequence and that means loosening the set screw for the main chime wheel and rotating the drum till the quarter strike is at the 1-2-3-4, the beginning of the sequence.

Once the adjustments have been made it is back to the test stand.

Okay, my strike paddle adjustment did not work but in the meantime, the testing of the movement proceeded and everything looks very good at this point. I will give it a few days and return to re-adjusting that paddle.

Everything is working now.

I’ll be honest, 3 train movements are not my favorite type to work on for 4 reasons. One, they often need major work only after a few years. Secondly, it is often not enough to install new bushings for worn pivot holes lower in the trains but to address other worn holes up the trains, as well. Thirdly, they are labour intensive and finally, except for modern movements, parts are almost impossible to find.

In many cases, certainly as far as a modern Hermle is concerned, it is often more cost-effective to simply replace the movement rather than repair it.

July 14, 2021

Door catch repair on a Gilbert Model 2038 mantel clock

This is the model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert called a Normandy Chime in its sales catalog. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. The “Normandy Chime” was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France.

In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.

The movement has been serviced

Clocks such as this that have not seen servicing in many years fail because of a combination of bushing wear and old oil buildup.

The movement was cleaned, the mainsprings serviced, pivots polished, 5 bushings installed to address wear issues and tested prior to returning it to its case.

Gilbert movement with a date stamp of 1925

The door catch

Although serviced well over a year ago I never got around to repairing the door catch. I could not figure out a way to make an effective catch and I don’t think the solution I came up with is the best possible one.

Now, you might think, why is this such a big deal? It’s not, but without the catch the door pops open a little and will not stay closed, enough to annoy the heck out of me.

The solution, for now, is a brass tab with a hole drilled through it to accommodate one of the bezel screws. It is not perfect but allows the door to close securely.

I have no idea what the original catch looked like but evidently it was a poor enough design that it broke at some point in the clock’s history.

The clock is promised as a gift and now I am now assured that everything works properly.

June 27, 2021

HAC mantel clock – refreshing the case

Servicing the movement is complete. Next is the case.

For those unfamiliar with the HAC acronym, it stands for Hamburg American Clock Company, a well-known German company that was acquired by Junghans in the late 1920s. I have a number of German clocks including Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection. This clock dates to somewhere between 1900 and 1908.

Here is the auction photo of the clock.

Bracket clock — HAC mantel clock (reproduced with permission)

As you can see there is some wear as expected from a 100+-year-old clock. The dial is especially grimy.

I focused on the dial first, managing to remove most of the grime while retaining its patina. Plus I touched up the numbers and chapter ring. There were numerous scratch marks on the dial surround and I did my best to clean it up and make it more presentable but it is what it is. Check out this article for more information on cleaning the dial.

HAC clock is attractive but the dial needs a lot of work — HAC clock is attractive but the dial required a lot of work

Stripping a case is always the last resort in my view. There is visible wear on the bottom corners, the lower part of the columns, and column capitals but not enough to justify removing the finish.

I cleaned the case with Murphy’s soap, applied 2 coats of shellac using 4X0 steel wool between coats followed by a coat of Minwax finishing wax.

Better but not perfect but perfect was never my goal. Now, where to put it?

May 31, 2021

HAC/HAU shelf clock is attractive but the dial needs work

The movement has been serviced and the next step to bringing this clock back to life is cleaning a very grimy, tarnished and worn dial.

For those unfamiliar with HAC or, The Hamburg American Clock Company (Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik), it is a well-known German company that was incorporated in 1876 as Landenburger and Lang, later with a name change to HAC in 1883 and was eventually acquired by Junghans in 1926.

Its best-known trademark is the “crossed arrows” symbol found on the movement plate and the coil gong. Unlike most HAC clocks there is no cross arrows trademark on the gong though there is one on the movement behind the pendulum rod. The name “Hamburg” was chosen at the insistence of one of its investors and “American” refers to similar American-style production methods.

I have a number of German clocks including Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.

I bought this clock online at an estate auction in February of 2021 and because of the pandemic I had it shipped to me. The only thing I had to go on were the auction photos but it is no different than taking a chance on an eBay or similar site. Once I opened the package it is what I excepted, no surprises.

While it is an attractive design it is dirty and likely has never been cleaned. There are no parts missing, a bonus, but the case and dial require attention.

The most distracting element is the dial. In short, it is a mess.

Two options

One is to replace the dial from a donor clock but given the small amount of money put into it, the fix would have been pricey. Those I have found in my internet search are going for more than I paid for it. The second option is to clean it up and make it as presentable as possible.

Cleaning the dial

Normally I use a good water-based cleaner to remove grime from a dial but in this case, the blackish-grey tinge you see in the above photo is actually 100 years of built-up oil, grease and grime. I am sure an auto mechanic owned the clock and adjusted it before he washed his hands.

Drastic measures are called for. I knew that I would be stripping the remainder of the cream-coloured paint from the dial but as I discovered, there is so little paint left that it would not have made a difference. The numbers were also rubbed away after years of use.

I took the dial out of the case and using Q-tips and a cleaning solution took away as much grime as possible. Some 50 Q-tips later I managed to remove most of the dirt. After rinsing with water and wiping the dial, I filled in the numbers using water-based acrylic black paint, a fine-tipped artist’s brush, and a fine-tipped .6mm permanent marker for the chapter ring.

The dial came out marginally better and the original patina has been somewhat retained. I am pleased with the result but that is as far as I will go.

From a distance, it is presentable and less distracting.

Next and last is refreshing the case.

May 26, 2021

Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection

Eight years ago I acquired my first Arthur Pequegnat clock. In the years following, I have added to my collection and now have a total of 8. Although my collection of Pequegnat clocks is very modest by comparison to a dedicated Pequegant collector it is a good start and I would certainly like to add to that number in the future.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest-lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. They made a wide variety of different styled clocks from 1904 through to 1941 from shelf and mantel clocks to wall clocks and floor models.

The time and strike with signature nickle-plated steel plates — Nickle-plated steel or brass plates

Unfortunately, it is very difficult to date a Pequegnat clock, except for what is termed pre and post-Berlin, the location of the company’s manufacturing plant. Clocks made before 1917 were inscribed “Berlin, Canada” on the dial face. Kitchener, Ontario was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 then the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916.

Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the town fathers decided the name Kitchener was less offensive and the change was made midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario, Canada.

Most Arthur Pequegant clock movements are stamped with the company name but there are no date marks on movements indicating when it was made. Clocks made after the First War wore the company name plus Canada under the number 6 on the dial face. For example, clocks such at the Canadian Time were made from 1904 to 1941 and are separated in age by the Berlin label consequently, my Canadian Time wall clock with the Canada label could be as old as 104 or as “new” as 80 years old.

One distinctive feature on many movements is the use of nickel plating for both brass and steel plates.

Clock face Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock — Arthur Pequegnat Company name

Many models continued in production right up to 1941. By 1941, the demands of World War II armament makers for brass, the essential ingredient in clock movements as well as the growing popularity of the electric clock, forced the Arthur Pequegnat company to cease production.

And now, beginning with the first clock acquired in 2013.

The Canadian Time

My first Pequegant, purchased in September 2013 hung in the Intercolonial Rail Station waiting room in Pictou, Nova Scotia.

The seller arranged the purchase of the clock just prior to the station’s decommissioning in 1993. It is in very good condition, missing its door clasp but otherwise intact. There are a few scratches and nicks consistent with its age but nothing objectionable.

The Brandon (2nd edititon)

I found this clock in an antique shop just outside Truro, Nova Scotia in 2014.

The case is in excellent condition but the movement was quite worn. Had I known more about servicing clocks at the time of purchase I would not have sent it to a clock repair specialist. It is one of two in my Pequegant collection serviced by someone other than myself. This is the Brandon II. The Brandon 1, the first edition, was made prior to 1918, and had an ornate pressed wood bezel. This one is simpler in design.

The Maple Leaf “Fan-top”

Next came my first Maple Leaf kitchen clock, known for its unique lower tablet of scattered maple leaves and a distinctive maple leaf pendulum.

Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock

This clock, bought in 2015, was also serviced by a clock professional. The case was in very poor condition. Stripping a case is an absolute last resort as far as I’m concerned but the finish on this clock was pretty bad. I could not leave it as it was.

To Pequegnat collectors, it is known as the fan-top.

The Simcoe

Three years later, the Simcoe followed me home. It was bought at an antique shop in Victoria, British Columbia in 2018.

It is not particularly attractive. It is the only mantel clock in my Pequegnat collection and it is from the “Berlin” period.

The Bedford

2018 was a good year because I acquired 4 Pequegnat clocks. This was number two of that year.

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock — Bedford shelf clock

This clock was gifted to me by a reader. He asked if I wanted the clock but I had to pick it up in Quebec which was on our way to a summer cottage in central Canada. The movement was in very good condition but the case was damaged having taken a plunge off a high shelf.

The movement was serviced without issue but the case required extensive intervention.

The third purchase that year and the fifth in my collection is the Maple Leaf Pointed Top

The Maple Leaf “Pointed Top”

There are 4 Maple Leaf clocks made by Pequegnat. Any version of the Maple Leaf is sought after by Canadian collectors but this one has distinctive pointed side columns, hence the nickname.

Although termed a kitchen clock it could easily have been placed in a living room or parlour.

The Moncton

The last 2018 acquisition was a clock that I had in the back of my mind for quite some time and I was waiting for the right price. This is an excellent copy that is very presentable and looks great on our kitchen wall.

It is a post-Berlin double spring time-only 15-day clock. Many were used in rail stations despite the fact that they were spring-driven. Weight-driven clocks were preferred for their accuracy but the Moncton was up to the task as a timekeeper.

And the last.

The Canuck

This is the only true Pequegant “gingerbread” clock in my view.

Arthur Pequegnat Canuck kitchen clock — Canuck kitchen clock

The case was refreshed and the dial was redone. The movement was also serviced without issue.

These are all keepers. Most Pequegants have kept their value over the years and in Canada, they are regarded as quality clocks for the masses. They were well built, well-designed movements with a distinctive Canadian charm as many were named after cities in Canada.

A hall clock would complete my modest collection.

May 22, 2021

Servicing clocks and dealing with clock suppliers

I want to share my experiences dealing with clock suppliers and let me begin by saying that my experiences have been largely positive.

I have been repairing and restoring clocks for the past 10 years and since I live in Canada I generally deal with one mechanical clock parts supplier out of Toronto, Ontario, Perrin. They are excellent for most of my needs, but they do not have everything and from time to time I must locate special or unique parts through other suppliers such as Merritts, Timesavers, and Ronell from the USA and Meadows and Passmore in England.

For example, I recently completed the restoration of an Ingraham Grecian shelf clock, circa 1871, and it required a new set of hands. The hour hand that came with the clock was too short and the minute hand was the incorrect style. My goal in this case is a clock that is as authentic looking as possible and incorrect hands always takes away from a clocks appearance.

My Canadian supplier did not have the correct hands and eventually my search brought me to an out-of-country supplier, Timesavers.

Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo

Ingraham Grecian with correct sized moon hands

Had I ordered just a set of hands the shipping cost would have been substantial.

In order to justify the purchase I added additional parts; 2 smoothing broaches, a Seth Thomas #2 maintaining spring, brass weight cable, a riffler set, and a bob wire set. The total came to $36US. The shipping and processing fee is $24US. Factoring in the rate of exchange the order cost me $82CDN.

If my Canadian supplier had everything I needed the cost would have been $20 less. It was not a significant difference in this case but it was worth it to find the correct hands.

What are the costs?

The sourcing of parts from various suppliers especially outside Canada can be expensive when administrative costs, shipping fees, exchange rates and import duty are included.

Some suppliers, however, require a minimum order. Others apply a credit card fee for international transactions, still others apply a processing fee and occasionally there is import duty. In almost every case the cost is higher and in some cases, it may not be worth it.

There are a number of choices for shipping but the cheapest method is not always “cheap”. Ground shipping in Canada is fairly inexpensive. Many out-of-country suppliers ship by air and the cost can be significantly higher.

That little $2.99 part can easily cost $20 or more after all costs.

Parts Availability

Not every supplier is going to have what you want. There are similarities from one supplier to another but there are also differences. For example, one is likely to find brass carriage clock feet from an English supplier because bracket and carriage clocks are much more common in that part of the world. English suppliers will also carry more tall case, and carriage clock parts and obviously, American suppliers will have many parts for clocks made in the USA.

The upside is that by knowing the various suppliers and their inventories I am able to satisfy most of my clock parts needs. If I only need one part I will always add additional items to justify the shipping and other costs.

My strategy for sourcing parts

If I were in the clock business and required one part, I would pass all costs on to the customer. I do not run a repair service and can afford to put a project aside if it needs parts and wait till I can justify an order.

I build a list of parts using an Excel spreadsheet, and when I feel there is enough to justify an order I pull the trigger. I can afford to wait.

As far as prices are concerned, companies such as Timesavers in the US have locked in their prices till 2022 while prices for some items at Perrin, a Canadian supplier, have increased marginally in the past year. Still, I buy Canadian when I can.

When ordering, if there is an offer of a free parts catalogue I always ask for one.

I also take advantage of every opportunity when I find pendulums, clock keys and other sundry items in flea markets and antique shops and snap them up, IF the price is less than I would buy from a supplier.

Clock parts are not cheap. If you are looking at clockmaking as a hobby factor in the cost of basic and more advanced tools but know that consumables can cost much more in the long run.

From my experience, most suppliers are excellent to deal with are and the service is speedy and professional. Just be mindful of all those other fees. It can really add up!

May 15, 2021

First blog post – 6 years ago

Clock collecting from a beginner’s perspective. That was the subject of my first blog post six years ago. Since then I have seen a lot of excellent and not-so-good blogs come and go but I wanted to give it my best shot and after 6 years, well, I am still here.

I started with a free WordPress plan, moved to a personal plan and then, this year, to a Premium plan. I now permit advertising on my site but my only goal is to recoup costs for server space and domain name. Anything extra is gravy.

In the early days I would stop blogging in the summer and resume in the fall. That did not work so well as my viewership fell off and I had to rebuild after the holidays. Now I schedule all my articles in advance. In fact, I typically have about 15-18 articles “in the can” at any given time. Having an inventory of articles means there is no need to scramble with something new every 3-4 days, my typical interval between articles. Some of you bloggers must know how hard it is to put words together when inspiration is lacking.

I am not sure what I was expecting 6 years ago but now have a dedicated following, receive many interesting letters each week, have met people through my blog and it seems people appreciate my content. This is reflected in statistics which are the lifeblood of any blog and it’s those daily figures that keep a blogger motivated. For instance, I have more views in a typical day than I had in the first 3 months of my blog.

Not once do I claim to be a professional horologist but after 10+ years in clock repair as a hobbyist I think I know something by now.

Welcome to my first blog post written May 15, 2015 which I will present word for word.

I regard myself as a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a unique talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.

It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock. Why start with a Chinese-made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. It was cheap, it piqued my interest in collecting and repair and it was something to practice on. I then moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, known as the “Fan-top”

My blog will profile clocks in my collection both vintage and antique as well as describe my attempts at repair. Along the way I will seek advice from you, the reader, from clock forum sites and whatever information I can find online.

Clock collecting is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling (and now, writing). Locating good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia and Canada, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting that one-of-a-kind deal.

Most photos on this site are my own. Photos from other sources will be given full credit. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical wonders and anything about their provenance will included as well.

Forestville Westminster chime mantel clock

Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I hope to share my frustrations and my successes.

As Winston Churchill once said, “Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm”.

I have stayed true to form since then and continue to publish 7 to 9 articles per month. Since then I have acquired dozens of antique and vintage clocks from all over Canada and probably have upwards of 80 clocks in my collection at this point. I have also said goodbye to an additional 20 clocks through local sales and as gifts. It remains a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy although occasionally I have done some paid and pro bono work.

If you have stayed with me since the beginning, thank you, but if you are new to my blog or following for the first time, welcome!

Anyway as I said 6 years ago, “Stay tuned”.

May 13, 2021

Fleet Time Clock – servicing the movement and then disaster

This Fleet Time, time and strike mantel clock is essentially a plain, garden variety clock with a walnut finish, flat front, a slightly domed top, and step-side features on corner feet. The dial is heavily tarnished and the glass bezel that should be soldered to the chapter ring is detached. These bezels often go missing and at least this one came with the clock.

The clock has some issues, none of which are insurmountable. The plan is to refinish the case, attach the bezel, clean-up the dial or replace it, install new glass, and service the movement.

In this post servicing the movement is the focus.

The movement looked reasonably good when I received it and it may have had some bushing work done in the past but once apart it was clear to me that it might never have been worked on beyond a cleaning. It ran when I got it and one is tempted to leave it as is but it was dirty, had some wear and long overdue for a good cleaning.

Servicing the movement

Disassembly and testing for wear

I discovered two troubling issues when I had it apart. I put the wheels together to check for wear and I noticed the escape wheel was a fair distance along the arbour from its correct position adjacent to the leaf pinion (no photos, sorry). The pallets were contacting the very edge of the wheel. My staking set comes in handy from time to time and it was needed to close the gap between the wheel and the pinion.

Using light taps from a hammer and an appropriately sized punch I drove the wheel closer to the pinion. The pallets now contact the middle of the wheel as they should. Odd!

The second was an erratic beat during the testing phase of the time side. With a beat amplifier connected, I could hear the movement go ever so slightly in and out of beat, yet the movement continued to run. There are a number of possibilities but one is a bent escape wheel arbour which, in this case, was the culprit. Bent arbours are not difficult to straighten but care must be taken to bent them carefully so as to prevent a break. A broken arbour can be a very frustrating clock problem.

Once the 2 issues were out of the way it is on to cleaning the parts, inspecting and polishing the pivots, pegging the pivot holes, followed by bushing work. Most of the bushings that were installed were on the strike side. In fact, 4 of six, 3 on the backplate and one on the front plate, strike side, and the two on the time side were on the second wheel. Two were 2.5 OD bushings. I work on a lot of American and European clocks and cannot recall using bushings that small.

Testing

After cleaning and bushing work is completed the rack, snail, levers, and strike hammers/levers are attached.

Since the star wheel is on the outside of the plate I thought attaching the strike hammers would be simple. Not so much!

Again as in all movements with star wheels, the strike paddles must sit between the star points. One was fine, the other hung on the tip of a point. Rather than attempt to force the star into position, the strike side was partially disassembled and the star wheel was re-positioned. Yes, it meant removing wheels on the strike side to change the orientation of the star wheel but it is best to do it correctly rather than risk damage to the gear.

On this movement, the mainsprings can be removed without disassembling the movement. Handy for such things as replacing a broken mainspring and making the above adjustment.

The movement was on the test stand for two eight-day cycles and now it is time to return it to its case.

Just when everything seemed to go well – disaster

I polished the 3-rod gong and mounted it and the movement within the case. I wound the strike side fully and then wound the time side. Just as I was feeling resistance, CLUNK, and then the arbour turned freely. Did the mainspring slip off the winding arbour or, did the mainspring break?

Sourcing a mainspring is not a problem but when I removed the barrel I discovered two broken and one bent tooth on the mainspring barrel plus a broken mainspring. Make that three broken teeth since a bent tooth cannot be straightened.

I do not have the specialized equipment to make and install new teeth and sourcing a 60 tooth barrel that is the exact height and depth would be a challenge. Worse, the catastrophic shock of the broken mainspring took out one leaf of the second wheel pinion.

When the mainspring breaks on the arbour end, which occurred in this case, the power is released uncontrolled, and causes damage to the barrel, the second wheel or both. When the mainspring breaks at the other end it tries to unwind and the loose end provides sufficient resistance, that is, a much slower release of the energy, and is less likely to cause major damage. In the latter case the mainspring is the only thing that is damaged and it can be easily replaced. In the former, both the barrel and second wheel need to be repaired or replaced.

This is an unusual situation, but it happens.

Fleet second time wheel with bent pinion leaf which cannot be straightened

The movement was aside to consider next steps. In the meantime, the plan is to locate a donor movement. The power was let down on the strike side, and everything was placed in a sealed plastic bag and marked for storage.

I’ll be honest, this situation bummed me out and it took a week to return to servicing another movement.

The clock case

The plan, after servicing the movement, was to devote a separate post on the case but since the movement is non-functional there is not much point. While the movement was on the test stand, I spent hours on the case, stripping, finishing, and polishing including swapping out the dial and broken glass with one from a Blackforest clock from the same period (both companies used the same suppliers). The case came out better than expected but now there is no movement to put in it.

The most disappointing part? I was at the very end of the project. The movement and rod gong were installed in the beautifully reconditioned case and I was preparing it for its first run after having tested it for two weeks. I did not expect it to go out with such a destructive bang.

I asked a clock friend for some advice. He says that although the barrel teeth and leaf pinion can be fixed it is usually not worth it because the process is so time consuming. “What do you do?”, I said. “I collect movements that are used as donors for times such as this”, he replied.

A sad end to an otherwise satisfying servicing.

April 18, 2021

E. Ingraham Grecian – restoration of the case and dial

This attractive shelf clock was bought on an online auction in early January 2021. From the auction photos, I expected a clock that required attention and now, having received it, I am pleasantly surprised that it is in better condition than I thought.

Under the auction studio light (first photo), the case might appear to look reasonably good. Closeup, there is a lot of oily dirt and grime. Servicing the movement will wait for another day. Restoring the case and dial is first.

Ingraham Grecian shelf clock — The vibrant grain of rosewood is there, underneath the grime

Restoration of the case and dial pan

The design of the E. Ingraham Grecian 8-day time and strike shelf clock is neoclassical. It is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today. it is timeless.

The age-old debate about what to do with a clock case often arises. Some say, “leave it”, the finish, however grimy is part of a clock’s history. I am not of that camp. If I found the perfect classic car in an old barn I would not leave the dirt and grime on the finish to preserve its patina? Rather, I would polish it to show it off to the world.

This clock is not a candidate for stripping the finish. Stripping is a last resort. Good old fashioned soap and water work is perfect for a project such as this.

Old clocks especially those that are over 100 years old are generally very dirty and the grime is layered. The home environment was a very different place a century ago. Smoking in the home was common, many homes had wood and coal fires for heat, humidity varied because of poor insulation and anything in suspension landed on the furniture. This Ingraham clock is no exception. The rosewood veneer deserves to be shown off and that can only be achieved by peeling off the dirt to reveal the texture of the grain underneath.

For cleaning, I prefer a light coloured microfiber cloth so that I can visualize how much dirt I am removing as I proceed with the cleaning. I use several during the course of the project. Diluted Murphy’s soap is used for the case and full strength for the stubborn areas.

Rubbing is required but I don’t want to get too carried away as the cloth might snag a piece of the veneer on a corner. I start with a discreet area first to see what effect the cleaning is having. Working one section at a time, I clean down to the veneer. Any shellac that remains will be removed during the cleaning.

The case looks bleached after the cleaning but a damp cloth will show the grain, the effect shellac will have once the cleaning stage is complete.

I let the case dry thoroughly before applying the first coat of shellac. Shellac is prepared in the traditional manner, flakes and lacquer thinner and mixed to a one pound cut allowing fast drying.

For this project, I applied 2 coats of shellac. Between coats, I used 4X0 steel wool to smooth out any imperfections. After the second coat, I use steel wool to take away the glossy look of the shellac.

Next is the dial.

Ingraham Grecian clock, the dial is detached from the bezel

Above is a photo of the dial when I received the clock. It is off-center because nothing is securing the dial face to the brass bezel.

Ingraham Grecian dial tabs — The rear of the dial, 2 new dial tabs

Two of the four tabs securing the dial face on the rear of the brass bezel were broken. The arrows show the two new tabs. I am not a whiz with a soldering iron and did the best I could but the results, to me, are acceptable. The thin brass tabs were sourced from a supplier. The tabs, once secured, are bent to secure the dial in place.

The numerals were in-painted. The dial was in generally good condition though there were losses outside the chapter ring. I mixed and matched paint to touch up the areas of paint loss, and installed a new grommet to replace the missing time-side one. The brass bezel, inner brass ring, and strike side grommet were polished with Brasso as the last step.

The case and dial part of the project is complete and in a future post I will address servicing the movement.

April 5, 2021

Hamburg American Clock Co. – shelf clock, first look

This clock was an estate auction buy in early 2021. Since my wife and I were unable to bid in person we placed an online bid. So many estate auction houses are taking this very route that the days of people packing an auction house and bidding feverishly may be behind us. It was described as an unknown clock but I’d seen enough photos online to know that I had likely won a Hamburg American Clock Co. shelf clock. And, for a small shipping fee the clock was delivered to us a few days later by courier.

HAC was a well-known German company that was founded in 1883 and made clocks for a number of years before they were acquired by Gebr Junghans Uhrenfabrik or Junghans for short, in the late 1920s. I have a number of German clocks but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.

When I opened the box I inspected the clock for damage (there was none) and proceeded to look for the familiar cross arrows trademark on the backplate of the movement. I could see how it would have been easily missed by the auction house since the trademark was “hidden” behind the pendulum leader. Many HAC clocks have a trademark on the gong block, this one does not.

The case is a little tired and worn, especially the dial, but there is nothing amiss, no parts missing. The movement works but I am not sure what to do with a very tired looking dial face.

I pulled the movement out of the case to examine it more closely, inspect for any immediate issues, and proceeded to photograph it from different angles.

Like other German movements, it is robust, well-engineered and has a certain industrialized look, even crude in some respects. The front and backplates are solid indicating that it was probably an early version of this movement. There are no “extra” holes in the plates that are often found in many other German movements, holes that are made for various functions for other styles of cases. Compared this to the #36 movement (below right) from HAC. At 8.7 cms by 10.9 cms this one is almost the exact size.

The plates are almost 2 mm thick, suggesting a well engineered movement.

Movements on German mantel and shelf clocks from other manufacturers are typically bolted to a seat-board. On this clock, brackets on all 4 corners attach the movement to the inside front panel which is very American!

Numbers in the top left corner of the backplate,164, 42, and 130 tell the beats per minute, the number of escape wheel teeth, and pendulum length.

I am anxious to take the movement apart and look at ways to revitalize the case and dial.

This is an excellent winter project.

March 27, 2021

Auction clock bought on a whim

Although I have sold a few clocks locally in the past year to trim down my collection, I am always on the lookout for new acquisitions. One in, one out, has become the rule.

I am a frequent follower of online for-sale and estate auction sites and look for unique clocks like this E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock (right) which I bought in early January 2021.

There are two noteworthy estate auction houses in Nova Scotia, but only one offering premium items. As for what I term is “the better auction house”, art and Canadiana are their specialties but occasionally clocks are added to the auction offerings.

In February 2021 I took a chance on a second clock from the same auction house. Since one clock was offered I knew that the auction would not attract collectors. If there are several clocks offered for auction, I find that collectors are attracted and that tends to drive up the bidding.

The description of the clock according to the auction house is as follows:

Antique walnut bracket style mantel clock with polished brass outer
dial. In running order but probably could use a clean, with mellow
tone chime. Brass movement. No makers marks. Measures 14
inches tall by 10 1/4 wide and 5 3/4 inches deep.

So a “pig in a poke” as we would say locally. An unknown maker in a fairly attractive case. “Could use a clean” is a euphemism for “might have some issues”. From the auction photos, the case looks tired and the state of the movement is unknown, but, I am up for the challenge.

The dial looks intriguing. It could be one piece with a silvered chapter ring or spandrels added over the brass which is more likely. As of this writing, it remains at the auction house awaiting shipment.

The movement is certain to be German. However, it might have been made by any number of companies, Junghans, Mauthe, HAC but I am thinking it is HAC, the Hamburg American Clock Co. and made in the early part of the 20th century. I do not have any other HACs in my collection, so, this would be the first.

I suspect a well-built movement with solid plates front and back.

The reserve bid of $75 is what I paid. I am not a fan of reserve bids but at least I did not pay more than that. Of course, tax and the auction house buyer’s premium are always added to the final invoice.

I think I will be pleased with the purchase.

March 23, 2021

Daylight Savings – it is time to end it!

Daylight Savings Time has no place in our modern world. Of 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries observe Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe some form of daylight saving.

Top showing face and crown detail — Face of a Vienna Regulator clock C.1870

70 countries must live with it.

Clock face showing moon dial — Face of a Ridgeway grandfather clock C.1996

At 2:00am Sunday, set your clocks ahead one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.

Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. In Canada, we have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking — Canada Clock Co. cottage clock C.1883

How to set your mechanical clock(s)

Move the minute hand slowly clockwise to the correct time, stopping briefly for the quarter-hour on chiming clocks and the half-hour for striking clocks.
Do not move the minute hand backward as it risks damage to the movement. This should be regarded as a general rule, exceptions are some clocks where it is safe to do so (read your owner’s manual).

There has been a push to scrap the time-switch in Canada.

It is stupid, needless, senseless, and confusing.

March 14, 2021

E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock – first look and action plan

This article is the first look at one of my latest online auction finds, an E. Ingraham & Company shelf clock known as the Grecian.

The Ingraham Clock Company operated under a number of minor name variations over the years, E. Ingraham, E & A Ingraham, the E. Ingraham Company, E. Ingraham and Company from 1844 to 1885. Later The Ingraham Company made electric clocks and wristwatches. McGraw-Edison now owns the company and quartz clocks bearing the Ingraham name are still manufactured.

Although not rare the Grecian is quite collectible. Patent dates on the label date the clock to around 1871. The only other one I have seen is at the American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol Connecticut, a mosaic maple and walnut version.

American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol Connecticut

It is a handsome clock with clean lines. The E. Ingraham Grecian 8-day time and strike shelf clock is neoclassical in design. It is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today.

It is a distinctive clock. It has a moulded Rosewood bezel, carved volutes below the dial frame (or rosettes as Ingraham called them in his patent letters), and a Rosewood veneered case. The dial frame and bezel are one section that makes up the hinged front access door. There are walnut cased versions and mosaic as well but Rosewood has a certain exotic allure. Elias Ingraham was a case designer and no doubt had a hand not only in the design but the choice of woods used for case construction.

This clock was bought at an online auction in early January 2021. From the auction photos, I expected a clock that needed work and now, after having received it, I am pleasantly surprised that will not take much to service the movement and clean the case.

General condition

The case is Rosewood but because of the buildup of dirt and grime over the years, the grain and texture of the wood are hidden. Upon closer examination, there are some small chips of veneer missing from the corner edges of the base, not surprising given the age of the clock. The rounded top and volutes are perfect.

There is some wear on the top part of the base under the door and that is to be expected. The curved wood bezel is in very nice condition. The backboard has age-related cracks in two places but will not require a repair. There is a slight corner separation on the left side of the base but everything else is tight. The door clasp looks good.

The dial screws came out too easily and the screw holes are well worn. The dial has been taken off more than a few times to make adjustments. The dial is also misaligned as a result of the new screw holes. Both the minute and hour hands are incorrect. The moon hour hand is too short and the minute hand is a slender spade. Both will be replaced.

The painted zinc dial face, which for some reason is detached from the brass bezel, appears to be original with some flaking on the edges. There is a missing time side grommet. The alarm dial is loose, not seemingly attached to anything, and came off easily once the hands were detached. The brass bezel needs a good cleaning.

The unique green triangular label inside the case is in fair condition with pieces missing at the lower cracked section of the backboard. I found a loose 3cm piece at the bottom of the case which can easily be glued back in place. The alarm mechanism is in excellent condition. The spring on the alarm is typically broken on these old clocks; this one is fine. I doubt if it has seen much use. The bell is cast brass and there are two strike hammers; one on the inside, which is for the alarm, and one on the outside, the hour-strike hammer.

I was told by the seller that the clock would run for a few minutes, even strike but then it stops, which tells me that nothing is broken. The crutch loop is twisted around the pendulum rod and since there is no impulse it is not surprising the clock would stop. I doubt it ran more than a few seconds.

It is a pinned movement. Later movements have screws or bolts holding the plates together. The movement might have been worked on in the past although it is hard to tell. The two lower pins look original but the top pins look like replacements. If it was worked on it was done with care. There are no tell-tale signs such as marks, scratches, and punch marks that indicate past servicing. Since the mainsprings are wound tight I won’t know the extent of wear until I take the movement apart.

I can only guess that the butchered crutch and the detached dial are the results of someone who did not know what they were doing when making an attempt to get the clock to run.

The plan of action

The case: clean all wood surfaces thoroughly with Murphy’s Soap. Cleaning will no doubt remove remnants of the old shellac and new shellac prepared in the traditional manner (flakes and alcohol) will be applied to all the exterior surfaces. The finish will then be dulled with 4X0 steel wool.

The movement: The movement will be completely disassembled and inspected for wear, and cleaned. New bushings will be installed if needed. I made some adjustments to the crutch and ran the clock for two days and it was striking correctly during that period. The mainsprings look to be in good condition and provide plenty of power. The alarm mechanism which might never have been operational, will be taken apart and cleaned. The alarm dial is a friction fit and will be tightened up once the movement is reinstalled and should work as intended. The crutch loop will be repaired.

The dial: I will leave the dial as-is despite a little paint loss on the edges. Once the dial is aligned properly these should be hidden, for the most part. The dial pan has separated from the bezel. A past tinkerer used cellophane tape to secure the dial pan to the bezel and even attempted to solder two of the tabs, poorly I might add. These are fixable. More difficult is sourcing a 2 3/4 inch moon minute hand.

Well, that’s it for now. I plan to get started fairly soon. The only thing stopping me is a Seth Thomas #2 that has stopped and needs a look-see. There will be more on the Ingraham clock later.

March 13, 2021

Finding a repairperson for your mechanical clock

The past year will be remembered for many years. It was a very trying time for many of us but in the midst of the pandemic, there are positives. It was a time of reflection and a time that reminded folks of a past when life was simpler. More and more people have become interested in hobbies and perhaps collecting antiques in general or antique clocks in particular.

Seth Thomas adamantine mantel clock, C.1909

Perhaps you received a clock as a gift, inherited one, picked one up at an antique store, found a clock online that needs work or discovered that very rare clock that requires a little TLC to run perfectly and you want to have it running just like the good old days.

Junghans Corner feet finished — Junghans Sydney bracket clock C.1911

Two options

Basically, you have two options.

Try to fix the clock yourself, or,
Find someone to put the clock in working order.

Even if you bought a working clock, eventually it will stop running and it will require cleaning at the very least or major repairs if it is very worn.

You might attempt to fix a non-working clock yourself. With basic tools, you might get lucky with the repair of simple, cheap movements but eventually, you will require a professional. Working on clocks requires a certain skill set and plenty of patience. It takes years to attain a level of expertise not to mention the specialized equipment required to work on the mechanisms. For any high-quality or rare clock, you may not trust yourself to work on it yourself and will need a reputable clock repair person to make it right.

Scottish tall case clock — McLachlan tall case clock, C.1848

It may come as no surprise that there are not as many people involved in the clock repair business today as there were years ago. Clockmakers are a dying occupation. Clock repair businesses are closing when owners retire as there are not enough young people to carry on the tradition. Plus, in the digital age do analogue clocks make sense!

With so few skilled professionals left, finding a person to repair your clock requires time, effort, and research. At one time in my home province of Nova Scotia, there were a dozen repair shops operating in or near every major town. Today there are two reputable repair shops left and both are hours away from where I live. They perform excellent work but they are expensive, and why not, they provide an exclusive service.

Reputable clock repair shops have repair persons who have the necessary credentials to work on a wide variety of clocks. However, some repair shops have questionable work practices. How would you know? The Better Business Bureau is a good source to determine whether or not a business is in good standing. If a business is in good standing and has no complaints it is considered reputable according to BBB standards.

Local jewellers might advertise mechanical clock repair but very few have a certified repair person on site.

Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock, C.1870

A second source is the American-based National Association of Watch Clock Collectors business directory which lists reputable repair services in Canada, the United States, Austria, Singapore, Switzerland, Ukraine, and the United Kingdom.

The National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, or NAWCC, has over 175 chapters, mostly in the United States, that are devoted to the repair and restoration of clocks. Members of this organization range from interested beginners to dedicated horologists. Consumers and interested collectors can receive answers to many clock questions with a free registration on the NAWCC Forum site. Guidance and direction can be provided to those seeking a repair person in their local area.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site — Ingraham Huron shelf clock, C.1879

Those looking for a clock specialist in the UK should look for those individuals who have a membership in the Antiquarian Horological Society or AHS.

Contacting either of the above organizations or reading their publications will narrow down your choice of a clock repair specialist.

For those living in Germany, the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Chronometrie. is an excellent resource.

And finally, word of mouth. Connect with someone you know who works on clocks and watches and they likely will tell you not only where you can have your clock repaired but who is reputable and if the repair cost is reasonable.

Once you find that special clock person to repair your clock you can rest assured that it will be given the love and attention it deserves and take comfort in the fact that someone is available to look after your mechanical antique or vintage clock needs.

March 9, 2021

Variables that affect antique and vintage clock prices?

There are many types and styles of clocks and dozens of manufacturers. If you are a collector you know exactly what you are looking for and have a good idea of its approximate value. If you are not an “expert”, selecting an antique clock can be a daunting task. But this article is not about helping you find that special clock. It is about the variables that affect clock prices in 2021.

Over the years I have learned the value of many antique and vintage clocks. When I come across an interesting clock on an online for sale site or in an antique store I have several questions in mind. Is there anything special about it? When was it made? Is it rare? Is it historically significant? Is the price too high or too low and why? How much work must I put into it if it clearly needs TLC and will the seller accept a lower price? That said, I am prepared to walk away at any point.

For example, E. Ingraham clocks are common and can be had for very little money but the more desirable Ingrahams of the 1860s and 70s are those that Elias Ingraham had a hand in designing. The Ingraham Grecian is an attractive example of a clock that was designed in a period of American clock manufacturing where dappearance and uniqueness mattered.

Condition is important. One look at the case will tell me how well it was cared for. In my experience, it is pretty rare to find a clock that has been professionally serviced and many where a previous owner applied their limited skills to get it running. However, if you have the skills to service the movement and are handy at restoration, there are certainly bargains to be found.

If acquiring antique and vintage clocks is something you enjoy but have no knowledge of clock repair, the cost of servicing must be factored into the price particularly if you want it to run reliably.

Let’s assume that you are looking for an authentic antique or vintage clock that has not been altered in any way save for minor cosmetic touch-ups. What factors influence the price you pay for a clock today?

Here is a list of factors I would consider in making your next purchase and why you would pay more for some clocks and less for others.

Variables that affect clock prices today

Wall clocks generally command higher prices than mantel clocks, the exceptions are Asian wall clocks and the like that have little value.
Most mantel clocks less than 100 years old have little value.
Clocks that come from a prominent collection that are well cared for and in excellent condition are more desirable.
Demand in your local area affects price; Canadian-made clocks are sought after in Canada whereas the same clocks are almost worthless in the US.
Weight-driven clocks are more desirable than spring-driven clocks. The exception is the modern weight-driven grandfather clock whose value has plummeted in recent years.
Condition is key, a clock in excellent condition is worth more than one in poor condition or with parts missing.
Running clocks are worth (generally) more than non-running clocks.
A recently serviced clock is worth more than one that has either not been serviced in a long time or never serviced.
The same clock may be worth more than others that are the same or similar if it has special provenance i.e. a well-documented tall case clock that came from Grover Cleveland’s home.
A clock with a replacement movement is termed a marriage by collectors. Marriages are worth far less than an authentic clock but acceptable by some collectors.
Any clock that has had its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one is worthless.
One of the largest factors in a clock’s value is the manufacturer. Many from Sessions Clock Co. are rather ordinary and relatively inexpensive but some Seth Thomas Sonora Chime clocks, for example, have good value.
Age does not always equate to a higher price. A clock that is 170 years old is not necessarily worth more than one that is 50 years old.
Mechanism type; double and triple fusee clocks and pinwheel regulators are worth more than open-spring-driven mantel clocks or modern tall-case weight-driven clocks.
Some clockmakers are more desirable than others; generally speaking a German-made Winterhalder and Hofmeier mantel clock is worth more than a similar American-made Gilbert mantel clock. Assuming both are in the same condition, an unsigned four-glass French clock has a greater value than a branded American crystal regulator.

The Law of Supply and demand and the 30-hour ogee

The law of supply and demand is the theory that explains the interaction between the sellers of a resource and the buyers for that same resource. Generally, as price increases, people are willing to supply more and demand less and vice versa when the price falls. At the end of the day, the clock market is very unpredictable. Clocks on eBay that go for $400 one month are $100 the next.

An interesting example is a 30-hour ogee clock. Prior to the popularity of online auction sites 30-hour ogee clocks (below) were commanding prices in the hundreds of dollars. Antique stores had them in the $250-400 range and when the internet came along supply increased and prices dropped.

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee, circa 1860

I have paid low prices for some of my clocks but higher for what I call special clocks that are not necessarily rare but are made with some level of precision or unique in design.

Closing thoughts

In commercial transactions, the principle that the buyer purchases at his own risk in the absence of an express warranty is termed Caveat Emptor, or let the buyer beware. In the clock world, buyers have little or no recourse if those goods turn out to be defective, misrepresented, or broken. The best of luck trying to get your money back if you are a successful bidder on an online auction site and your package arrives in pieces.

Selecting and purchasing an authentic antique mechanical clock can be a daunting task but it can also be a very rewarding experience.

March 1, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #30 – a Forestville clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

JS writes;

“I found your blog online. I wasn’t sure if you were able to help. But I’m trying to find some information on a mantle clock I purchased.

It is made by Black Forest Clock Company, which I know is Canadian. Just curious if you recognized the clock and a possible year.

My reply;

“Hi and thanks for your email, Joe. The company was first called the Blackforest Clock Company when formed in 1928 and changed its name to the Forestville Clock Co. In 1941. The same company just a change in the name. It was based in Toronto through its life right up to the late 1970s. If it is a Blackforest clock it was made prior to 1941. Is it a pendulum clock or does it have a floating balance escapement? If you are not sure, send me a photo of the movement.”

Which JS promptly sent:

Just purchased it at an auction. I look forward to picking it up and putting it on the mantle. Be safe and well and thank you again.

My reply:

“Looks like a nice pendulum clock.”

February 23, 2021

Adjustments to a Smiths Enfield mantel clock

This is a Smiths Enfield Art Deco-style clock that reflects the clean lines and geometric design of the 1930s. It needs a few adjustments to ensure smooth operation before being listed for sale. Perfect for collectors or anyone who appreciates vintage clocks of this era.

The Smiths Clock Co. became Smiths Enfield in 1949 and the Smiths Enfield name first appeared in catalogs from 1950 onward. This oak-cased time and strike shelf clock was made somewhere between 1949 and 1955, vintage, but not antique. More information on this company can be found here. The latter part of the 1970s saw the decline of this and many other companies who fought hard to compete with inexpensive clock offerings from the Far East.

The clock keeps good time, but there’s an issue with the strike side. While the strike has a pleasant sound, it operates erratically. This may be an adjustment issue that will require removing the movement from the case for further inspection.

Once out of its case, I ran the strike side going through each hour observing the action of the levers and the snail. The setup is conventional but there is no rat tail per se on this movement just a pin or striker point midway along the rack arm. The rack pin was hitting the sloping edge of the plateau part of the snail, and the pin was not connecting with the flat section of the snail.

The Adjustment

To make the adjustment, I removed the clip and washer to release the snail. I advanced the snail to the one o’clock position and removed the snail and reinserted it so that it was placed approximately where the rack pin hits midway along the plateau of the snail. This will permit the snail to fall at the midpoint throughout the 12-hour cycle. On the test stand, I monitored the strike sequence.

Determining the sweet spot in similar movements that have a rack and snail arrangement will take some experimentation.

As expected, I found that when advancing the strike, the paddle was catching on one of the points of the star wheel. This could either stall the strike train or cause an extra strike on the hour.

Although it is a simple adjustment the mainsprings must be let down and the plates pulled apart enough to relocate the paddle arbour so that the paddle is positioned between two tips of the star wheel. In the process of manipulating the levers, one or two other wheels may pop out. After repositioning all the wheels, secure one corner of the plate with a screw and proceed with testing the strike-side action.

The clock had clearly been out of sorts for quite some time. Now that everything is properly adjusted and functioning as it should, it can be confidently sold without the dreaded disclaimer, “might need some adjustment.”

February 12, 2021

Solar mantel clock servicing – just one hiccup, well, a couple actually

For today’s post, we are looking at a German time and strike mantel clock with a Hermle movement and sold in Canada under the Solar name. It has a 6″ dial and dark walnut case that would have been around $50 or $60 when new in the 1960s. At about 13” wide by 7” high by and 4” deep it is small by mantel clock standards and would fit just about anywhere in a home or office.

Solar clock, just a little taller than a beer can

It has a type 141 German movement from Hermle with a recoil escapement and 11cm pendulum (200.8 bpm). The half-hour strike on a bell is pretty sound for a mantel clock but is loud enough to be heard across the house. As a testament to its design and durability, this movement is still being produced by Hermle today.

This was not a running clock when I bought it but I thought a good cleaning was all it required. Judging from mars and scratches on the backplate of the movement it has been worked on in the past.

I took the movement out of its case to examine it more closely and I was relieved when I saw that the pivots were not plated, the bane of Hermle movements from the 1970s to the late 1980s. In those days Hermle used soft steel pivots for their movements and plated them for hardness. The plating has been known to peel off and this requires repivoting which is a time-consuming process. When there is too much pivot work to be done the movement is simply tossed out. This movement predates the plated pivot period.

I did not see any evidence of bushing work on the movement but one or both mainsprings were replaced as the barrels had numerous scratch marks on them. As is typical of clocks of this period the mainspring barrels can be removed without disassembling the movement. The winding arbours simply pull out once the rachet is removed. Mainsprings on some German clocks are a known weakness.

Hermle movement, you can see the S on the strike barrel

The movement was in very good condition with minimal wear.

The movement was disassembled, parts cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner, the pivot holes pegged, and the pivots polished. The warning wheel is plastic and did not go into the ultrasonic machine, a cost-savings measure by Hermle no doubt on a part that has almost no load.

Hermle stop wheel — Hermle plastic stop wheel

I assembled the parts to check for wear and found that the movement required two bushings, the star wheel, backplate, and the lower drive wheel rear plate, both quite worn. All other pivot holes were within acceptable tolerances.

Installing two bushings

The starwheel bushing installation was simple enough. The center cannon wheel had to be removed so that the backplate bushing hole could be accessed. Bushing work went without a hitch.

Now for putting that centre wheel back on. An oval tension spring just below it must be tight enough but allow the arbour to move. Attempting to reinstall the brass washer was frustrating and as you can see I made some nasty marks trying to get it back into place (below photo). After several tries, I just could not get it tight enough.

Hermle movement, washer and tension spring — Hermle movement, washer, and tension spring

I attempted to stake the washer but that did not work. None of my stock of brass tubes had the correct inside diameter and I was reluctant to put a lot of work into making a friction washer with my mini-lathe.

Solar washer — Solar center wheel friction washer, not reusable

However, I discovered a simpler solution, a brass Bergeon bushing.

Hermle movement new washer — Hermle movement’s new friction washer is a brass bushing

The arbour is roughly 2.6mm and a bushing with an inside diameter of 2.5mm provided a good friction fit. The bushing is also large enough to cover the tension spring underneath. Perhaps not the intended purpose of a brass bushing but it works! In many other German clocks, there is a pin through the arbour and it can be easily taken off but not on this one.

Reassembly and testing

After test fitting all the parts it is off to the next stage, resembling the movement. When reassembling a rack and snail movement there a number of things to consider but in my view, the three most important steps are ensuring the warning wheel pin is in the roughly 12 o’clock position to permit a half-turn to set up the strike, that the strike paddle is between two star points and not resting on the point of star wheel (a strike train that starts up under load may stall) and that the gathering pallet pin is well clear of the rack teeth. On a typical rack and snail movement, all other adjustments are done outside the plates.

Then comes the testing phase which generally lasts a couple of weeks or more depending on what issues may arise.

In the meantime, I took the opportunity to clean the case and touch up some small chips on the decorator piece under the dial.

January 27, 2021

Solar time and strike mantel clock by Eatons – first look

In the 1960s, T. Eaton & Co., one of Canada’s most iconic department stores, offered a variety of home goods to suit the tastes of the era. Among their diverse range of products was a charming collection of clocks, including the small but striking mantel clock that continues to capture the attention of collectors today. Its distinctive style and craftsmanship represented a unique intersection of mass-market appeal and decorative elegance.

In this article, we take a closer look at this somewhat ordinary-looking clock, exploring its design, history, and place within the broader context of mid-century Canadian home décor.

A changing economic and retail environment in the late 1990s, along with mismanagement, culminated in the chain’s dissolution in 1999. As a young child, I remember pouring through the Eatons “Christmas Wish Book” trying to decide on that perfect gift….for me!

Eaton’s catalogue, as well as department stores spread across Canada, sold a variety of clocks including this mantel clock with a German-made Hermle movement under their house brand, Solar. Many of the Solar clocks sold from the 1950s through to the 1980s survive in Canadian homes to this day more as decorations rather than functional pieces.

This particular example is a time and strike mantel clock featuring a 6″ dial and a dark walnut case. Priced at approximately $50 or $60 when it was first sold, it measures around 13″ wide, 7″ high, and 4″ deep. Its compact size makes it an ideal choice for homes where space is limited, fitting comfortably in nearly any room without overwhelming the space.

Equipped with a Type 141 German movement from Hermle, this clock features a recoil escapement, an 11cm pendulum, and operates at a rate of 200.8 beats per minute. It strikes on the half-hour with a bell, though its chime isn’t particularly melodious. As a testament to its design and durability, the type 141 is still being produced by Hermle GmbH & Co. KG today.

It also came with instructions and a product card from Eatons.

When I purchased the clock, it wasn’t running, and I hoped that a thorough cleaning would restore its function. The scratches and gouges on the backplate of the movement suggest that it has been serviced before. However, I won’t know the full extent of any previous repairs until I remove the movement from its case for a closer inspection. My main concern is the possibility of plated pivots, which were a common issue with Hermle clocks from the late 1970s to the late 1980s. Fortunately, I have a strong feeling that this clock predates that troublesome period.

The case, on the other hand, is in near-perfect condition.

It will be serviced and put up for sale. I am not normally in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to trim my collection and cover clock supplies.

Look for an upcoming blog article on the servicing of the Hermle movement.

January 19, 2021

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part II

Back in October (2020), I wrote about the challenges of working on this mantel clock by Forestville.

Recap so far

It is a nondescript Art Deco-style German mantel clock made in the 1960s sold under the Forestville name, a Toronto-based company that assembled clocks up to the 1970s.

The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustments, save for the stop wheel, on the outside of the plates. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, typical of movements of the period.

The hairspring escapement is something I did not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to mess with it. Three screws detach it from the movement.

The bane of clockmakers – the broken pivot

When working with German and French movements particularly one must always be very careful of the small pivots. Normally when I work on this type of clock I am very aware of how easy it is to bend or break the tiny pivots and this clock was no exception. After taking apart the movement and reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear I noticed the front plate center wheel pivot had come off.

Thinking I was careful guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator I either applied too much pressure closing the plates or it was hanging on like a tread. Regardless, it broke. Compared to a pair of tweezers it is very small.

Broken pivot compared to a pair of tweezers

My experience with pivot repair is limited. I don’t come across broken pivots very often. Compared to an American clock that has much larger pivots these are tiny, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that fit I do not have pivot wire that size and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire. Not pretty but functional.

First, using a centring bit followed by a high-speed bit on my Taig metal lathe, I drilled 5mm into the shaft, enough to securely anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I applied high-strength Permatex Threadlocker Red to secure the wire in place.

A centring bit is essential when drilling a starting hole in an arbour.

After the 24 hour curing period for the adhesive, I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I will reserve judgment on the repair until the other bushings are installed.

There is more wear on the time side that at least 3 new bushings are required, two on the front plate and one on the back.

Out of an abundance of caution, I installed an additional 2 bushings. In total are T2, T3, T4, rear plate, and T4, T5, front plate. All bushings are on the time side which tells me that the strike side did not see much action, typical for many mechanical clocks since some folks find the noise of the strike bothersome.

2 new bushings on the front plate, new pivot in the centre of the photo (untrimmed)

3 new bushings on the rear plate using a Bergeon Bushing Machine

Servicing the mainspring barrels was more frustrating than I anticipated. Both mainsprings refused to catch on their hooks when I attempted to install them back into their barrels. The mainspring opening must be precisely on center to catch. Lesson learned; after a few tries, I successfully got them hooked back into the barrels.

Re-assembly

The new pivot was trimmed to fit and given a final polish prior to installation. Now to put it all together and see if the work has paid off.

I was especially careful putting everything back together and very mindful of how easy it is to snap off one of the delicate pivots. All went well. On the test stand, I ran the strike side through its sequence; it is going into warning and striking on the half-hour as it should. Now for the time side.

Repairing a broken pivot. Left on the lathe overnight to cure the adhesive and keep the pivot straight.

At first, the escape wheel would stop after a minute or so but after oiling the pivots including those on the hairspring (minus the jewelled ones, of course) it runs well.

Testing the Forestville movement on a non-standard stand

I will continue with the test of the movement but so far, after two 8-day running cycles, things are looking very good. The next step is to re-install the strike hammers and other moving parts and return the movement to its case.

November 19, 2020

Choosing a mechanical clock as a gift

It is that time of the year when you begin searching for that unique gift. Of course, there are a multitude of choices but have you considered a mechanical clock as a gift? Let me provide you with a few tips.

Mechanical clocks harken back to the old days when life was simpler; no mobile telephones, no internet, and no streaming TV. Ah, those were the days!

Okay, so you are reasonably sure that a mechanical clock would be appreciated by the receiver. What to buy? There are a plethora of choices out there and certainly, clocks that would fit every budget from the simple and cheap American kitchen clock to a rare 19th century Boulle figural French mantel clock. Let me attempt to narrow your choices, not with a specific clock but a buying strategy.

Mechanical clocks appeal to those who enjoy the sound, the strike of a clock, or those who merely appreciate it as part of their decor. These factors will influence your choice as a gift.

Here are two examples of clocks I have gifted to my family. My son and his partner have a German Schatz W3 bracket clock in a custom case. It is in excellent mechanical in running condition but it stays quiet on their shelf. Nevertheless, it is the centrepiece for their fireplace mantel.

My daughter has a Sessions Raven 8-day mantel clock which sits atop a bookcase in their family room. It only runs when my wife and I visit.

But they love their clocks.

The following two categories might assist you in your decision to buy a clock for your loved one, a friend, or a business associate.

Category 1 – Those recipients who appreciate a running clock

You will want to avoid a non-working clock. Unless you have the skills in clock repair or know someone who can work on it, it is best to steer away from those. Many sellers use the phrase, “may need some adjustment” which is almost always a red flag for a clock that has issues. These are the cheapest clocks, and for good reason, they are simply worn out.

You may also get lucky and find that special mechanical clock that has been recently serviced and is in good running order but you will pay more because the seller is interested in recouping their investment in the clock.

Buying a clock from a reputable clock repair retailer is a good bet if the clock has been serviced and a warranty is provided but expect to pay significantly more.

Otherwise, there are many buy and sell online sites. I would shop locally and avoid eBay or other online auction sites. Auction sites are a real crapshoot complicated by high shipping costs and the risk that the clock might arrive broken. Yes, that has happened to me!

The sound of a ticking and striking clock in a room is very soothing for some. For others., not so much

Most clocks are 8-day running which means that they must be wound once per week. There are some quality 15-day and 30-day clocks but they are few and far between.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models — Daniel Dakota wall clock, made in China

Of the 30-day clocks avoid anything made in China. While 1-day clocks such as Cuckoo clocks and antique Ogees are plentiful and look terrific, winding a clock every day wears thin after a while.

George H Clark 30-hour ogee clock — George H Clark 30-hour or 1-day ogee clock

Check out this post on how to buy an antique clock.

Category 2 – Those recipients who want a mechanical clock as a decoration

Then, there are the folks who are not really that interested if the clock runs or not but want something that fits their decor and is a good conversation piece. A non-working clock with a good case is perfect. If it has the original movement but it is not working there is always the option of fixing it later. Personally, I would shy away from any clock that has its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one.

Focus on the condition of the case. Is it missing any parts, has recent work been done it, does it look authentic? Does it catch people’s attention?

For example, here is a very attractive Seth Thomas 8-day round top in a bold Rosewood case that has had only one minor veneer repair and a replacement dial face, but it looks great!

You bought the clock but the case is very dirty. Clean it! Some folks might argue that one should not clean a clock case so as to maintain it’s original patina. But, isn’t patina just another word for dirt? Soap and water with gentle scrubbing will make a huge difference. Check out this before and after photo of the cleaning of a clock face.

Junghans clock dial after cleaning with soap, water, and Q-tips

And this before and after photo of a gingerbread clock. You need not want to go the extra distance in retouching the dial but soap and water is an easy and non-invasive method of improving the look of the case itself.

Very grimy clock case especially the base section

After photo showing a clean case and a retouched dial — After, showing a clean case and a retouched dial

Final words

A mechanical clock makes an excellent gift and it is something that can be passed down from one generation to the next. My kids appreciate a mechanical clock from their dad and I will gift them one that is in excellent mechanical condition but I am not bothered if they use it merely as a decoration.

November 15, 2020

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part I

This post is about a mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Canada and some challenges servicing the movement.

In 2013 we were on a visit to the Thousand Islands and stopped at an antique store in Gananoque, Ontario. As my wife and I were strolling through the store and she noticed this mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto. Somewhat plain in style it seemed to be in great shape and it was exactly what we were looking for at the time.

History of the Blackforest Clock Co. and Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto

The Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto, Ontario was founded by Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928. Both clock movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents’ company in the 1930s and later became a full-time employee in the late 1940s.

Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street East factory. Initially imported mantel clock and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener (home of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company), but later the complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War, which also led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941. During the war years, the company imported its clock movements from England, the United States, and France. However, starting in the mid-1950s German factories again became the source of most Forestville clocks, with Mauthe being a major supplier.

The Forestville Clock Company was very successful during the middle decades of the twentieth century. Its grandfather clock cases and some of the wall clock cases were made in Canada. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and unfortunately, the company survived just a few more years without his leadership.

Most Blackforest and Forestville mantel clocks still have their paper labels tacked inside the back door. This one does not.

My Forestville mantel clock

This clock movement and case are imported from Germany in the 1960s. There is a serial number on the backplate but no database exists online to date this clock. I am thinking that the movement is made by Mauthe

The pivots and bushings appear to be in good condition at first inspection. The clock keeps good time and there is a simple speed adjustment on the hairspring escapement to regulate the clock. This mantel clock is handsome, has good lines and reflects the style of the period.

Servicing the movement

After 7 years I have put off servicing the movement far too long. The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustment wheels, save the warning pin, on the outside. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, common for movements of the 60s,

The hairspring escapement is something I will not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to fool with it. It is well protected by a plastic shroud. Three screws unhook it from the movement.

While there is some wear on the time side I see at least 3 new bushings required, two on the front plate and one on the back.

When working with German and French movements one must always be very careful of the delicate pivots. Normally when I work on these clocks I am aware of how easy it is to bend or break a pivot and this clock was no exception. However, I had the movement apart and was reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear and went about repositioning the center gear when I noticed its centre cannon front plate pivot had sheared off.

Arrow indicates center wheel with broken pivot (strike barrel removed)

I was not even aware that I was putting undue pressure on the pivot as I was carefully guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator. However, either I applied too much pressure or it was ready to go because I broke a pivot. To give a sense of how small it is, here it is beside a pair of tweezers.

My experience with pivot repair is very limited. This is not like a broken or worn pivot on an American clock which is less challenging to repair because they are simply much bigger. This pivot is small, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that size I do not have pivot wire that small and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire.

Repairing a broken pivot, pivot wire is glued in place and left on the lathe overnight

I centred the arbour with a centring bit and then using a high-speed bit, drilled to about 4 or 5mm into the shaft, enough to anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I used high-strength Permatex Thread Locker Red to secure the wire which takes 24 hours to cure. The next day I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I was not convinced the repair would work but I will reserve judgment until the other 3 bushings on the time side are installed.

Can’t wait to find out if the repairs are successful? It’s a long wait but on November 25th, I will present the results.

October 19, 2020

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – a favour for a friend – Part 1

Over the summer I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.

”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”

It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.

It was in a well-packed box and in it was a note. The note said, ”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”.

I opened the box, attached the pendulum, gave both arbours several turns, and started the clock. The fact that it is in running order and striking correctly is certainly a positive sign and testament to the fact that it was serviced in the past. Does it need a simple cleaning and regulating or is something else going on?

Apart from a couple of nicks and scratches, the case looks good. I asked the owner if she would like the case reconditioned and she said she prefers it the way it is. Fair enough.

The Ansonia Syria is an attractive mantel clock and according to the label affixed to the inside of the back access door, it is an 1878 Paris Exposition winner. This is helpful because it allows the clock to be dated. On the movement, there is a patent date of June 18, 1882. It is probably safe to say that it was made within a few years of the 1882 date which puts it in the late -1880s to 1890s. Tran Duy Ly in his book on Ansonia clocks (page 245) lists the year of manufacture as 1894.

The Ansonia Clock Company competed with many popular clock companies of the time; Waterbury, Gilbert, Seth Thomas, E. N. Welch, and New Haven to name a few.

Let’s look into this clock a little further. A few interesting anomalies struck me as I examined the clock case and the movement.

Just above the 12, there is a brass insert that looks like the head of a large pin. It is there to conceal a hole. Although difficult to see in the photo, the letters “S” and “F” appear at either side of the pin. The pin hides the hole for the regulator. Clocks with this type of regulator come with two-sided keys and the smaller end is used to insert into the hole and regulate the clock to slow it down or speed it up. The dial pan is also held in place by common nails.
This movement in this case does not have a regulator mechanism and the mechanism was not removed from the movement. This is a period-correct Ansonia replacement movement that originally came out of a kitchen clock with an alarm. The alarm would have been attached to an activating lever which has been cut off on this movement (see the centre of below shot).

In the above photo, you can see standoffs on the rear plate and clearly standoffs on the front plate. The front standoffs are fashioned from a brass ribbon, bent, drilled out, and cut to fit. The clock is, what we term in the clock business, a marriage. It is always nice to see that it has a movement from the same manufacturer and from the same period as the clock case but a marriage certainly reduces its desirability and makes it difficult to classify it as an antique.
Next, the suspension spring post has been re-soldered, loose perhaps.
And lastly, the hour hand is a replacement. The original hour hand would have been a trident style.

That having been said, the clock has great sentimental value for the owner, and the fact that it is a marriage and has undergone changes over the years may not be a factor.

The movement has been worked on in the past. There are 16 replacement bushings. The bushing work looks professional and after a first look perhaps 2 or 3 require replacement though none on the strike side. Otherwise, the movement was dirty and had thick black-greenish oil residue on several pivots. Not surprising in an antique clock but indicative of some level of wear. The mainsprings were dripping with brown oil, but I have seen a lot worse.

The next step is to service the movement. Part 2, in four days’ time will detail disassembly, bushing work, and general cleaning.

October 5, 2020

Tag: mantel

Pequegnat Jewel Dial Restoration | A Case For Inpainting | Part I

Condition of the dial

A decision was made

Fleet Time mantel clock – Mainspring damage

Fleet Time mantel clock with Gufa movement – servicing the movement

Door catch repair on a Gilbert Model 2038 mantel clock

HAC mantel clock – refreshing the case

HAC/HAU shelf clock is attractive but the dial needs work

Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection

Servicing clocks and dealing with clock suppliers

First blog post – 6 years ago

Fleet Time Clock – servicing the movement and then disaster

E. Ingraham Grecian – restoration of the case and dial

Hamburg American Clock Co. – shelf clock, first look

Auction clock bought on a whim

Antique walnut bracket style mantel clock with polished brass outer
dial. In running order but probably could use a clean, with mellow
tone chime. Brass movement. No makers marks. Measures 14
inches tall by 10 1/4 wide and 5 3/4 inches deep.

Daylight Savings – it is time to end it!

E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock – first look and action plan

Finding a repairperson for your mechanical clock

Variables that affect antique and vintage clock prices?

Tick Talk Tuesday #30 – a Forestville clock

Adjustments to a Smiths Enfield mantel clock

The Adjustment

Solar mantel clock servicing – just one hiccup, well, a couple actually

Solar time and strike mantel clock by Eatons – first look

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part II

Choosing a mechanical clock as a gift

Forestville mantel clock servicing – not fun when things go wrong! Part I

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – a favour for a friend – Part 1

”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”

Condition of the dial

A decision was made

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Antique walnut bracket style mantel clock with polished brass outer dial. In running order but probably could use a clean, with mellow tone chime. Brass movement. No makers marks. Measures 14 inches tall by 10 1/4 wide and 5 3/4 inches deep.

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The Adjustment

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”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”

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Antique walnut bracket style mantel clock with polished brass outer
dial. In running order but probably could use a clean, with mellow
tone chime. Brass movement. No makers marks. Measures 14
inches tall by 10 1/4 wide and 5 3/4 inches deep.