The Myth of Over-Winding: Clarifying a Common Misconception

In the fascinating world of horology, many terms and expressions are often misunderstood or misused. A classic example is the frequent confusion between the words “mantel” and “mantle” to describe certain types of clocks. While “mantel” refers to a shelf over a fireplace, “mantle” is something you wear, like a cloak.

Another pervasive myth is the notion of “over-winding” a clock. How many times have you heard, “It was running fine until I over-wound it”? This phrase is commonly found on clock forums, Facebook groups, and among enthusiasts. However, attributing clock malfunctions to over-winding is a misunderstanding of how clocks operate.

American time and strike clock movement

While it is technically possible for a mainspring to be damaged by excessive tightening—winding it until it’s tight and then continuing to wind it further—this is not the primary cause of most clock failures. The real issues often stem from different sources.

Consider the spring barrel, as shown in the photo below.

When the spring is wound, it coils tightly around the winding arbor, with the other end hooked to a small stud inside the barrel. This hook can become fatigued over time due to repeated excessive winding or the riveted stud can break free, but this is not the typical cause of a clock stopping.

In American open mainspring clocks, what appears to be “over-winding” is often a result of old oil, rust, and dirt accumulating in the mainspring coil. These contaminants can cause the coil to stick and seize somewhat like the action of an adhesive, making it “seem” as though the clock is “over-wound.”

This spring is re-useable

When I receive a clock that is said to be “overwound”, I use a let-down tool to release the mainspring partially or completely, apply mainspring oil generously, and then rewind the clock. This step will help in some cases, but it’s important to note that it doesn’t replace a thorough cleaning or address other potential issues that might be causing the clock to stop.

The letdown key
The letdown key

Disassembling the movement and removing the mainspring allows for a proper inspection. Dirt and old oil can be cleaned, light rust can be removed with emery paper or steel wool, and heavy rust necessitates the replacement of the mainspring. The spring should also be checked for cracks or breaks. Often, a mainspring in good condition can be salvaged with proper care even if there are minor problems with the connecting section of the spring.

I frequently reuse mainsprings in my clock repairs, as long as they are not “set.” A mainspring is considered “set” when it has developed permanent deformations or has lost its original flexibility and strength due to repeated use or overstressing. In such cases, reusing the mainspring compromises the clock’s reliability and shortens its operational cycle.

When a mainspring is “set,” I typically replace it to ensure the clock functions optimally and to avoid potential issues. If I were operating a clock repair business, I would replace the mainsprings as a standard practice and pass the cost onto the customer.

“C” clamps used to contain the power of the mainspring

Another potential issue is the click mechanism. In some clocks, such as those made by Sessions for example, the click rivets can become fatigued and fail. Inspecting and repairing/replacing this component is a common procedure in clock servicing.

Worn click on Sessions movement

When buying a new clock, do not assume it has been recently serviced unless the seller can confirm it. If there’s no assurance of recent servicing, plan to have the movement serviced as soon as possible either by yourself or a competent professional.

Regular maintenance is crucial for any mechanical clock to ensure its longevity and proper function.

“Over-winding” is a myth that often misguides clock enthusiasts. The real causes of clock issues are typically related to dirt, old oil, or mechanical wear, not the act of winding the clock. Understanding this can help in better troubleshooting and maintaining your cherished antique or vintage clock.

Having a ticking clock in a bedroom may be the answer to a restless night

While many might not initially favour the idea of having a ticking mechanical clock in their bedrooms, its presence can actually offer significant benefits. Let me elaborate on why. Before I go further let me say I understand that some individuals may find the ticking sound disruptive to their sleep.

The therapeutic value of having a ticking sound in the bedroom to aid with sleep can vary from person to person. Some individuals find rhythmic sounds like ticking soothing and conducive to relaxation, helping them fall asleep faster. However, others may find it distracting or even irritating, disrupting their sleep. Overall, it largely depends on personal preference and individual sensitivity to sounds during sleep. Nevertheless, for some individuals, opting to tune into off-station frequencies or running a fan for background noise is their preferred method, whereas our method of choice is the mechanical clock.

Clock on a wall in a bedroom
Banjo clock hung in the bedroom

In my opinion, having a ticking mechanical clock in a bedroom can be advantageous. Although I have zero evidence to back my claim, it seems beneficial to introduce a rhythmic sound into a room to enhance sleep.

A number of years ago we found a Sessions Lexington banjo clock in an antique store in one of the New England states(USA). Before you conjure images of an expensive banjo clock crafted in Boston or elsewhere, let me clarify that this clock is likely one of the cheapest banjo clocks ever produced. It was made in the late 1920s, and many were sold to those who could not afford the more desirable weight-driven banjo clock, like the one in the next photo.

Sawin weight-driven banjo clock
Sawin banjo clock Ca. 1830

The Lexington may not even keep accurate time, but it excels in its primary function: providing background noise.

Lexington banjo clock CA. 1927
The modest Lexington banjo clock CA. 1927

If you are accustomed to American clocks you will note that they are loud tickers unlike finely crafted French and German clocks that are almost silent in operation. The loud ticking however is an advantage. The loud rhythmic ticking sound acts as white noise, helping some people fall asleep faster and masking other background noises.

time-only Sessions movement (top plate removed)
A mass produced time-only Sessions movement (top plate removed)

The Lexington is a time-only spring-driven clock that runs about 100 or so beats per minute. Although it may beat too fast for some, we’ve grown accustomed to it. In my belief, a slower beat is preferable, with 80 beats per minute being an acceptable compromise.

For those accustomed to it, the ticking becomes a comforting part of their bedtime routine. Using a mechanical clock reduces reliance on digital devices, potentially improving sleep quality by reducing screen time. When it comes to digital devices, it’s best to avoid bringing a cell phone into your bedroom. Learn to disconnect from the digital world. The digital world couldn’t care less about your need to get a good night’s sleep. If you need an alarm, consider investing in a high-quality radio alarm clock instead.

Sangean wr-22wl radio
Sangean table radio with alarm function

And lastly, the classic design of mechanical clocks adds aesthetic appeal to the bedroom, and their reliability ensures consistent timekeeping, even during power outages or when batteries die.

Time to service a Classic Sessions Schoolhouse Clock – cleaning & testing the movement

In the first segment of this two-part series, I detailed the assessment process of this Sessions time-only movement, which can be accessed here. This article explores the next steps in the servicing of this clock movement. I will also offer in-depth observations regarding the case’s condition and comment on any additional issues that have emerged subsequent to the assessment phase.

Sessions Schoolhouse clock

Two years ago, I acquired this Sessions schoolhouse clock at an auction with the intention of adding it to my collection of similar 19-inch clocks. The purpose behind this acquisition was to create a set of “time zone” clocks, as my children are scattered across the country. This setup allows me to easily glance up and determine the time in their respective areas.

The back of the movement


In the initial assessment of the movement, I anticipated no significant surprises or wear due to the prior work done on it.

To disassemble for inspection, I removed the movement from the case. Using a let-down key, I restrained the mainspring with a C-clamp and then removed the 4 bolts holding the movement together. After taking out the mainspring, I inspected the remaining parts for wear. I observed slight elongated wear on the second wheel bushing hole but found no major issues requiring remediation. Further examination revealed minimal grime in the pivot holes and a lack of lubricating oil. Overall, the movement showed little wear.

And now, on to servicing the movement.

Using an emery board to polish the pivots

Using my Taig lathe I polished each of the pivots. Polishing methods may differ but I prefer to use a fine-grain emery board. Emery boards are affordable and ideal for the task at hand.
I slide the emery board horizontally while the pivot rotates within the lathe and clean off any residue on the pivots with a soft cloth.

All components are immersed in the ultrasonic cleaner, and after approximately 15 minutes in the cleaning solution, the parts are removed and thoroughly dried using a gentle cloth and a hairdryer to eliminate any remaining water within the lantern pinions.

Since there’s no requirement for bushing work, the procedure remains straightforward, and the components are reassembled after the drying is completed.

Once all the parts are together the pivots, entrance & exit pallets, saddle pin, mainspring arbour, and crutch loop are oiled using Keystone clock oil.

After assembly, the movement undergoes a testing period, which may extend for days or even weeks. However, for this particular time-only movement, because of its simplicity, the testing duration is shorter.

The case and dial

The case is very well-preserved, devoid of the typical dents and marks often encountered on clocks from this time period. Cleaning with soap and water will suffice.

I only realized that the entire dial face, except for the chapter ring, had been repainted after I started loosening the screws for the dial bezel. I hadn’t noticed this previously and had assumed it was a replacement dial because it appeared to be in such good condition. Achieving this required a steady hand, and as a result, it looks very well done.

Repainted dial face

Despite the care and attention given to preserving the movement and case, it is noteworthy that the hands are incorrect. Sessions would have originally used solid spade hands instead of pierced ones, and, naturally, both the hour and minute hands are too short.

On the test stand

The test stand

While on the test stand, I had to make two adjustments to the recoil escapement. The entry and exit pallets were too far from the escape wheel which necessitated moving the saddle slightly in towards the escape wheel. This is the drop most often referred to and it can be visualized as the airspace between the leading corner of a tooth point and the part of the pallet it is about to fall on. The other is a crutch adjustment to bring the movement to the correct beat.

Two days on the testing stand prove to be adequate, and the final step involves reinstalling the movement back into its case.

Time to service a Classic Sessions Schoolhouse Clock – initial assessment

Two years ago, I acquired this Sessions schoolhouse clock at an auction with the intention of adding it to my collection of similar 19-inch clocks. The purpose behind this acquisition was to create a set of “time zone” clocks, as my children are scattered across the country. This setup allows me to easily glance up and determine the time in their respective areas.

Three time zone clocks. The centre clock is the subject of this article

In this blog series, I will first guide readers through the assessment process, providing a detailed account of my findings. In the second part, the next blog article, I will walk you through the movement’s servicing and testing phase.

This clock belongs to the schoolhouse clock style. The origin of the name “schoolhouse clock” is not well-documented, and it appears that the term was not used during the time these clocks were made. Instead, it was later coined by collectors to describe a particular style of clock commonly found in school settings.

Sessions Drop Octagon bob
Sessions Drop Octagon bob

Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American schoolhouses due to their larger, easy-to-read dials. They were widely hung in schoolrooms across Canada and often had simple time-only movements, although some versions included a calendar function or time and strike movements. These clocks had a utilitarian look and were known for their durability.

The design of schoolhouse clocks is believed to be influenced by English drop dial fusee clocks, which were produced in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Drop dials closely resembled schoolhouse clocks and featured conical constructions with a chain or gut line pulled by a mainspring barrel, providing even power release for improved accuracy. Complicated movements such as these did not find their way into inexpensive mass-produced American and Canadian schoolhouse clocks.

Label on the back of the clock

However, not all of these clocks spent their lives in schoolhouses. The back label bears the stamp “Office,” indicating that in addition to school settings, these clocks were also used by small businesses in retail areas or in office settings.

Assessing the condition of the movement

The clock was in working order when I received it. When I removed the dial which is held by 4 brass screws I was delighted to find the movement to be very clean and in very good condition overall.

The movement has been worked on in the past as there are 2 new bushings on the back plate, the number 3 wheel, and the escape wheel bushing. On the front, one bushing on the escape wheel bridge was replaced.

In addition the click spring, both click and wire have been replaced. A note to those working on Sessions time-only and Sessions time and strike clocks from this era: it’s important to be aware of the company’s history of poorly designed click springs. Therefore, it’s not unexpected to find this one replaced.

Back of movement

The suspension spring and pendulum leader have also been replaced. The mainspring has the letters MB stamped on the arbour loop which leads me to believe that it may be a replacement. In all, the work was completed by a competent repairer, in my view.

There is no oil remaining in the pivot holes as the oil has dried up completely. Further running of this movement as-is is a recipe for accelerated wear. Finding the right balance is crucial when applying oil. Excessive oil can attract dust and dirt, transforming it into grinding paste, whereas too little can lead to premature drying of the pivots. In general, however, the old adage holds true: less is more!

Disassembly

In view of the work done on this movement in the past, I am not expecting any further surprises or appreciable wear as I disassemble the movement.

To disassemble the movement, first remove the movement from its case. There are 4 screws holding the movement to the backboard and once released the movement easily comes out. Using a let-down key, the mainspring is restrained by a C-clamp and the 4 bolts holding the movement together can be easily removed with a slotted screwdriver. The mainspring is then taken out after which a further inspection takes place.

Next, I check for wear by removing the mainspring and reattaching the top plate with all wheels, including the escape wheel, in place. By spinning the wheels I can visualize how each wheel interacts with the adjacent one. There were no surprises but there is very slight elongated wear on the second wheel bushing hole, back plate but not enough to be concerned about at this point.

Before cleaning the movement in the ultrasonic machine I begin by pegging the holes using toothpicks. My objective at this point is to determine how much dirt and grime are present in the pivot holes. Not surprisingly there was very little grime but again the absence of any lubricating oil. I then checked each pivot for unusual signs of wear and in the case of this movement, there was little, if any, wear.

Well, that is all for now.

An upcoming article will delve deeper into the ongoing process of servicing this clock movement. Additionally, I will provide insights into the condition of the case and address any other issues that might have surfaced during the assessment stage.

A Guide to Choosing Antique and Vintage Clocks as Unique Gifts

As the holiday season approaches, the search for a unique and meaningful gift becomes crucial. Antique or vintage clocks, often overlooked, can make a delightful and “timely” present. Whether you’re knowledgeable about clocks or a novice, finding the right one requires some understanding, and I’m here to provide you with some helpful pointers and explanations.

Why Buy an Antique or Vintage Clock?

People are drawn to antique or vintage clocks for sentimental reasons, the desire to own something antique, or the allure of a unique old mechanical clock. These reasons often top the list for those considering such a purchase.

Antique, Vintage or collectible

Determining the age of a clock can be tricky but a well-informed seller can confidently provide accurate information about the clock’s age to potential buyers, ensuring a fair and transparent transaction. Moreover, a clock’s age can often be determined through a date stamp on the movement or labels, providing accurate dating information for both sellers and buyers.

Generally, anything over 100 years old is considered antique, while vintage refers to items less than 100 years old but more than 30 years old. Items younger than 30 years are often called collectibles.

A Mauthe vintage clock from the 1940s

Types of Clocks: Mechanical or Otherwise

While there is a wide variety of clocks available, this article focuses on mechanical clocks both vintage and antique. Quartz clocks are common but have limited value. Electro-mechanical and electromagnetic clocks, while intriguing, are best left to expert collectors. Electric clocks from the 1930s and 1940s might intrigue the buyer but can be difficult to maintain and a non-functional clock can be potentially dangerous to those with a limited knowledge of electrical devices.

Choosing the Right Clock and Placement

Consider the available space when selecting a clock. Mantel clocks need shelves or tables, while wall clocks come in various sizes and styles and placement is less of a challenge. Although wall clocks require minimal space, some are hesitant to puncture a wall with a nail.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian shelf or mantel clock

Grandfather clocks (otherwise known in some circles as tall case, long case, and hall clocks), particularly those with impressive craftsmanship require ample floor space and a keen appreciation from the recipient.

Scottish tall case clock
Know the recipient if you are gifting a tall case clock

Furthermore, gifting a grandfather clock to an appreciative recipient ensures that it becomes a cherished heirloom, to be passed down through generations.

Cottage clocks, alarm clocks, and novelty clocks are compact, allowing them to fit into small spaces and be placed virtually anywhere.

This Sessions cottage clock is only 9 inches tall

Working or Non-Working Clock?

Ideally, a working clock recently serviced by a professional is the best choice and has the highest value. If a functional clock is used purely for decorative purposes, it can later be sold without affecting its value.

Sessions American No. 2
Sessions American No. 2, a working clock gifted as a decoration

If the clock serves a primarily decorative purpose, non-working ones can still be considered. Clocks as decorations often add a touch of vintage charm to a space, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. They can also evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminding individuals of days gone by. In addition, antique clocks with intricate designs can be conversation starters, becoming focal points in a room and reflecting the owner’s unique style and taste.

Tips for Clock Buying:

  1. Give preference to clocks that are operational; they are typically better maintained and can be easily resold by the recipient.
  2. Explore platforms like Facebook Marketplace, eBay, or local online sale sites. Opting for local transactions is favored because it eliminates the inconvenience of shipping, and meeting the seller in person provides the buyer with the flexibility to reconsider the purchase.
  3. Common clocks such as mantel clocks from the 1930s and 1940s are affordably priced, while unique or rare pieces might come at a much higher cost. In the realm of clocks, the determining factor for pricing isn’t solely the age of the clock, whether it’s 120 years old or 50. Rarity plays a significant role in establishing the value of a clock instead.
  4. Steer clear of clocks featuring directional arrows at the winding points; many of these are mass-produced Chinese clocks that come with powerful mainsprings, posing risks if they malfunction.
  5. The clock’s manufacturer is only vital if you’re seeking an exceptionally unique piece and are willing to spend significantly; instead, concentrate on the overall quality of the clock and its visual appeal.
  6. Conducting research is crucial to making a well-informed purchase decision. Examples are online resources, realized auction sales, networking, antique store visits, and books/publications.
  7. Be wary of any alterations, as they not only impact the clock’s value but can also alter its historical and aesthetic integrity. Thoroughly understanding the clock’s originality through basic research ensures a more satisfying and meaningful purchase.
  8. Whenever feasible, examine the clock in person to prevent unexpected disappointment. During the inspection, pay attention to the clock’s condition, checking for signs of wear, damage, or repairs. Examine the clock’s movement, and listen for any unusual sounds. Assess the quality of the materials and craftsmanship, ensuring they align with the stated age and value of the clock. Confirm the presence of any original parts, as replacement parts (hands, dial face, pendulum bob, etc.) can affect its authenticity and worth. Finally, if possible, request a demonstration of the clock in action to ensure it operates smoothly and accurately.

I hope these insights help you find the perfect clock for your special someone. I want to emphasize that I am not engaged in the business of selling clocks. Although I occasionally sell clocks locally, it’s solely to manage my personal collection and not as a commercial endeavor. Please be aware that I do not have clocks available for sale.

The Schoolhouse Clock: Unveiling its History

The origin of the name “schoolhouse clock” is not well-documented, and it appears that the term was not used during the time these clocks were made. Instead, it was later coined by collectors to describe a particular style of clock commonly found in school settings.

Gilbert Admiral with calendar function

Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American schoolhouses due to their larger, easy-to-read dials. They were widely hung in schoolrooms across Canada and often had simple time-only movements, although some versions included a calendar function or time and strike movements. These clocks had a utilitarian look and were known for their durability.

Ansonia Schoolhouse Clock with 12-inch dial

The design of schoolhouse clocks is believed to be influenced by English drop dial fusee clocks, which were produced in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Drop dials closely resembled schoolhouse clocks and featured conical constructions with a chain or gut line pulled by a mainspring barrel, providing even power release for improved accuracy. Complicated movements such as these did not find their way into inexpensive mass-produced American and Canadian schoolhouse clocks.

When purchasing a clock, the author always asks the seller about its history and provenance.

Sessions Drop Octagon
Sessions Drop Octagon time only schoolhouse clock

In the case of the Sessions Drop Octagon wall clock pictured above, the seller had acquired it from a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in Springhill, Nova Scotia. The clock, dating back to the 1920s, features a solid oak case, original hands, a pressed brass pendulum bob, a solid brass bezel, and a tin dial pan with stenciled lower glazing. While the paper dial showed signs of discoloration and wear, the clock was in reasonably good condition for its age.

Upon bringing the clock home, the author discovered that it ran for only a short time before stopping. A rubbing sound around the pendulum area indicated that the pendulum bob was hitting the inside of the case. After correcting a bent crutch rod, cleaning the movement, and making some adjustments, the clock started running properly. The author considered replacing the paper dial, which had brownish spots from prolonged exposure to moisture but decided to keep it as part of its history.

Time-only movements, like the one in this schoolhouse clock, are relatively easy to work on, making them suitable for beginners in clock collecting and repair.

While the exact origin of the term “schoolhouse clock” remains uncertain, it has become a permanent part of the clock collector language. These clocks, with their distinct style and large dials, were commonly found in early North American schoolhouses and have since gained sentimental value and recognition among collectors.

Tips for Antique Shop Proprietors when selling antique clocks (and other items)

As an avid antique shopper, I understand the thrill of finding a unique and valuable item, especially at a reasonable price. However, on my recent visit to a local antique shop, I found items priced far above their actual value, which was a disappointment.

I expect antique store prices to be slightly higher to cover overhead costs and ensure a decent profit margin, but in some cases, the prices can be unreasonably high. When I frequent an antique store and see the same items over and over should that not be a clear message to the seller that their prices are higher than they should be?

In this article, I would like to offer some tips for antique shop proprietors to help create a positive and profitable experience for all.

Tip 1 – do price aggressively

Antique shop proprietors face the challenge of balancing profitability with the need to maintain a diverse and appealing inventory. While it is tempting to hold on to high-value items and wait for the right buyer to come along, this approach can lead to stagnation in inventory and reduced sales volume.

To succeed in the antique business, proprietors should price their items aggressively to move inventory quickly. This approach ensures that the shop always has fresh, appealing items for customers to browse and purchase. A high volume of sales generates positive word-of-mouth advertising and repeat business.

Being knowledgeable about the values of items is crucial to pricing them accordingly. Proprietors should stay up-to-date on the latest trends in the antique market and be able to accurately assess the value of their inventory. This knowledge enables them to price items competitively while still making a reasonable profit.

Proprietors must strike a balance between pricing items aggressively and ensuring that they are not undervaluing their inventory.

Antique store find – Seth Thomas Adamantine C.1900

Tip 2 – price appropriately

Antique shop proprietors are not experts in every facet of the antique world but they should have a good understanding of the value and condition of the items they are selling in order to price them appropriately and provide accurate information to potential buyers.

In some cases, I have found that antique shop owners are not up-to-date with the current market prices of antique and vintage clocks which can lead to them overpricing their inventory and potentially losing out on sales.

Regularly educating themselves on the values of items they are selling ensures they are pricing their inventory competitively and staying relevant in the antique market.

Tip 3 – Is the customer always right?

Is the customer always right? Not always but listening to customers’ explanations for why they believe the price should be lower can lead to a successful negotiation and potentially repeat business. If customers appear knowledgeable about the item, proprietors should be prepared to give a little on the price. Proprietors that are steadfast on pricing may risk losing potential customers who are looking for a good deal or feel that they are being overcharged.

Inflexibility in pricing can also create a negative perception of the business and its customer service, leading to reduced customer loyalty and potentially negative reviews.

If I encounter pricing resistance while shopping, I may choose to discontinue my shopping.

Tip 4 – staging is key to the presentation

Presentation of merchandise is everything. Thoughtful placement and a well-curated display can make all the difference in attracting potential buyers.

Thoughtful placement can involve creating an attractive and visually pleasing display that highlights the unique features of each item by grouping similar items together making it easier for customers to find what they are looking for and can also help create a cohesive display.

Antique store find – Gilbert Admiral calendar clock C. 1900

Good lighting can make a big difference in how items are perceived by customers. Good lighting highlights the unique features of each item and creates an inviting atmosphere.

Creating a specific theme or style can help customers envision how items might look in their own homes.

Using height to advantage by placing items on shelves or pedestals at different heights. This can create visual interest and make it easier for customers to see everything that is available.

Lexington banjo clock CA. 1927
Antique store find – Lexington banjo clock C. 1927

While it can be tempting to try to cram as many items as possible into a small space, this can actually be overwhelming for customers. Make sure there is enough space between items so that customers can see everything clearly.

Keep things fresh by rotating your inventory regularly. This can help regular customers see new items and also create a sense of urgency for customers to purchase items they might not see again. Rotation will also encourage customers to return to your store.

Overall, thoughtful placement is about creating an environment that is visually appealing and easy for customers to navigate.

Tip 5 – stay up to date

Antique shop proprietors should not only keep themselves updated on the current market value of items but also be aware of any trends or changes in demand. This will help them adjust their pricing strategy accordingly to attract more customers and increase sales. It is also essential to have a good understanding of the condition of the items they sell, as this can significantly impact the value. For instance, a clock that is in pristine condition will be worth more than one that is damaged or has missing parts.

Antique store find – Seth Thomas column and cornice clock C.1875

Proprietors can also consider offering special deals or deep discounts to customers to attract more sales. This can include bundle deals, clearance sales, or discounts for frequent customers.

They can leverage the power of social media and online marketplaces to reach a broader audience and increase sales. By having a strong online presence, they can showcase their unique inventory and reach customers who may not have otherwise found their store.

Customers will ultimately vote with their feet

Customers know they can walk away from a price that is too high. There are many antique stores to choose from, and finding one that values its customers and its inventory is worth the search. Providing fair and reasonable prices can not only attract customers but also build a loyal customer base for an antique store.

Finally

By using these tips, antique store owners can create a shopping experience that is both enjoyable and profitable. With knowledge, negotiation skills, and thoughtful presentation, the world of antiques can be an exciting and rewarding one for proprietors and customers alike.

Restoring an Antique Sessions Schoolhouse Clock: Repairing Bushing Wear and Overcoming Common Issues

Bushing wear is a common issue that can occur on antique brass clock movements. A bushing is a small hole drilled into the plate that is used to support the pivots and reduce friction between the pivots and the clock’s plates. Over time, the bushings can become worn down or damaged due to friction, which can cause a clock to malfunction or stop. Other factors such as the environment the clock is in, the lack of periodic lubrication, and the build-up of dirt and grime combine to exacerbate wear over the years.

When bushing wear occurs, the clock’s pivots may become loose or wobbly, which can lead to the gears not meshing properly or becoming stuck. This can result in the clock losing accuracy or stopping altogether.

To repair bushing wear on an antique brass clock movement, the bushings or the holes must be drilled out and a new bushing inserted in its place. The new bushings must be precisely fitted to ensure that the clock’s pivots are properly supported and that the clock runs smoothly.

On my bench is a Sessions time-only schoolhouse clock made in the early 1920s. According to the label on the back, it is called the Office.

At only 21 inches high it is diminutive in size, unfortunately, the hands are incorrect

Factors at play when a clock stops

The clock stops when fully wound. There are essentially two factors at play when a clock stops. When the mainspring is fully compressed dirt and grime act like sandpaper and prevent the power of the mainspring from releasing. Some erroneously call this “overwinding” a term that has stubbornly persisted over the years. Worn bushing holes add to the problem when the holes are so worn the gears do not mesh correctly.

Curious, why is the trademark stamped on the INSIDE of the back plate?

Sessions movements are not new to me and I have worked on identical movements in the past. Compared to the others I have worked on, this one has minimal wear with one peculiarity detailed below.

Even before servicing, it looks clean

There is no doubt this movement has been worked on previously judging from pivot scratch marks around the bushing holes and a replacement click spring. The leader and suspension spring have also been replaced at some point in the clock’s life and judging from the condition of the suspension spring, it may need to be replaced in this servicing.

While there is some movement in all the bushing holes the worst is the 3rd wheel rear plate and the escape wheel front and rear plate. The holes in those three locations were drilled out and new bushings were installed in their place.

Despite slight wear on all other bushing holes, there is not enough to warrant new bushings at this time. Naturally, if I were in the clock repair business I would consider bushing the entire movement.

Using support to steady the escape wheel bridge

In this case, replacing bushings in the entire movement is not necessary as the clock will remain in my collection and as such will be inspected every 2-3 years for wear.

One of the unique features of clocks such as this is their ability to be hung and forgotten and continue to run quite well while very worn, a testament to their rugged design.

Plates on the left and gears on the right, a pretty simple movement

And now the eccentric repair. The click spring retaining tab/hook was snapped off for whatever reason. As a result, the replacement click spring winds its way through to the outside of the wheel by hooking into a hole drilled in the spoke. It is a little odd but as it works well there is no requirement for remediation. Aesthetics aside, some repairs do not need to be reversed if the part functions well.

Odd but it works

The mainspring has plenty of “spring” left in it which makes me wonder if it is a replacement.

On the test stand

During servicing the mainspring was unhooked from the main wheel arbour and using my Olie Baker spring winder, it was extended and thoroughly scrubbed with a Scotch-Brite heavy-duty scouring pad, and lubricated with Keystone clock spring oil. There was certainly enough dirt and grime to stop the clock in the spring’s fully wound position and a good cleaning solved the problem.

After a brief testing period, the movement was remounted and it is now on display on my kitchen wall where it rejoins its cousins.

As the tiny hands look rather silly, the correct clock hands will be added to my next clock supply order.

A diminutive schoolhouse clock by Sessions

The Sessions Clock Company of America was one of the leading clock manufacturers in the United States in the early 20th century. Founded in 1903 by William E. Sessions and Aaron Lufkin Dennison in Forestville, Connecticut, the company quickly gained a reputation for producing clocks that were both reliable and affordable.

Over the years, the Sessions Clock Company produced a wide range of clocks, including mantle clocks, and wall clocks, and became known for their innovative designs.

A very popular model was the schoolhouse clock. Schoolhouse wall clocks have a rich history dating back to the late 19th century. Originally used in schools, and other public places, these clocks were designed to be reasonably accurate and reliable timekeepers, with large, easy-to-read dials and distinctive wooden cases with glass-paneled lower access doors showing a moving pendulum.

A comparatively small schoolhouse showing incorrect hands

Over time, schoolhouse clocks became popular in homes and offices, with various manufacturers producing their own versions of the classic design. Today, schoolhouse wall clocks remain a popular choice for those seeking a traditional timepiece and are often seen as a symbol of American craftsmanship and design.

Diminutive clocks were popular in their day because of the lower cost compared to a larger wall clock. This clock is 21 inches high by 13 1/2 inches wide with a 7-inch dial and it is difficult to envision how it could be seen clearly in a large classroom setting but for some school regions, the cost was an important factor. Standard schoolhouse clocks are typically seven to eight inches longer and have 12-inch dials.

Most schoolhouse clocks were designed to display only the time, with no additional features such as a striking mechanism or date displays. This simplicity allowed for a greater focus on reliability, which was essential in public spaces such as schools where good timekeeping and long periods between servicing were crucial.

Shown in the middle with a Waterbury on the right and Sessions on the left, all are time-only clocks

I have had this particular Sessions clock for over a year and it stops from time to time. It likely requires a good cleaning and it is time to put it on the workbench. The case is in excellent condition and I see no need for intervention aside from cleaning with soap and water.

We’ll see what we shall find. I’ll report back in a week or two but this should be a standard servicing job and I am not expecting any surprises.

Sessions Grand Assortment – finally completed!

I am not a huge fan of gingerbread clocks which were very popular in America at the turn of the 20th century. Every major manufacturer made them and they sold like hotcakes. Thousands have survived and a quick perusal of online auction sites any day of the week will reveal dozens if not hundreds of them.

The Sessions Clock Company of America was a prominent clock manufacturer in the early 20th century, producing a wide range of clocks that included mantle, wall, and grandfather clocks. Founded in 1903 in Connecticut, the company quickly gained popularity for its combination of both traditional and modern styles. Although the company ceased production in the 1950s, Sessions clocks remain popular among collectors and clock enthusiasts. Sessions gingerbread clocks were particularly popular.

The gingerbread designs were created by using high-pressure rotary presses on oak wood that had been pre-steamed to soften it.

The Grand Assortment 8-day time and strike gingerbread clock from around 1915 was a big seller for Sessions and the model was found in many American homes of the day.

And so, we have my Sessions clock won at auction in early 2022. This clock has had a hard life of neglect.

This clock took many months to complete. I was not quite certain what to do with the case so I worked on the movement initially. I have serviced a fair number of Sessions movements over the years so servicing was fairly routine with the exception of one small issue mentioned below.

Rather than leave the case as-is I knew I knew that invasive intervention was the only option.

Auction photo

The case was completely stripped, not something I wanted to do but it was in such poor condition. For example, note the bottom right base section shown below.

The entire case was similar to this

After much rubbing, scrubbing, using a commercial nontoxic stripper, and the application of 2 coats of traditional shellac the results were better than expected.

The clock is complete, the slight darkness on the right is my shadow

I can usually resurrect a dial but this one had too much foxing as they say in the clock world. Foxing is the gradual process of rust oxidizing through the paper dial over a long period.

Sessions dial pan

Rather than source a new paper dial I decided to go with a dial from an Ingraham gingerbread parts clock and since the diameter, the center arbor and winding holes are standard it was an easy fit.

Anyone familiar with the Grand Assortment line would note that they were fitted with Roman Numerals rather than Arabic dials but I don’t think the buyer of a clock like this would see it as an issue.

Here is the clock from a slightly different angle.

Straight on shot

The Movement

I began with new bushings on the escape wheel rear plate and third and fourth wheels on the time side and finally the second wheel back plate for a total of 4 bushings on the time side.

The movement, as found, note the pendulum leader hanging off the crutch loop

There was negligible wear on the strike side.

As I noted in a previous article the center cannon is quite stiff and I was never able to eliminate the stiffness completely but the clock runs well.

Final thoughts

Stripping an antique clock case should always be considered a last resort. While it may be necessary to remove old, damaged, or unsightly finishes in some cases, stripping can irreversibly damage the wood and compromise the value of the clock. It’s important to exhaust all other options, such as repairing and restoring the existing finish before resorting to stripping.

If stripping is the only viable option, it’s crucial to approach the process carefully and with the utmost care to avoid further damage to the clock case.

And so there you have it. A case that was completely stripped, a new top coat, a newish dial added, and a movement that required minor servicing and now the clock is ready to be sold at some point in the spring after a few weeks of testing.

Best clock acquisition of 2022

Well, it’s that time of the year. What is my best clock acquisition of the past year? You can decide for yourself and leave a comment but I will reveal my favorite at the end of the post.

As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks and every year I have managed to find a winner or two. 2022 was no exception.

In the early days of collecting, time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus with the goal of taking them apart and making them work, an important part of my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, clocks that have a special provenance, and growing my collection of Canadian-made clocks.

My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions may go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook/xxx auction house?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because it is a fair price but there are times when a little wheeling and dealing takes place prior to the sale.

In no particular order, here are my finds for 2022.

Fusee gallery clock

Gallery or dial clock, unknown maker

The clock is also called a dial clock in England which is where it was made. There are no markings anywhere on the clock save an obscure trademark that I have been unable to identify. It is a time-only fusee clock with a 12-inch dial, a very common size. It might have had a chain drive at the beginning of its life but it now has a cable. I have not serviced this clock because I don’t know enough about fusee movements, particularly the method of preloading the powerful mainspring.

E N Welch marine clock

Marine clock by E N Welch

This 30-hour spring wound clock with a hairspring lever escapement simply tells the time. It was made in the 1870s and perhaps earlier. It has been serviced, bushed, and cleaned, but my challenge at the moment is setting up the hairspping. It will work but not well.

Hamilton clock co ogee

Hamilton time and strike ogee clock, Canadian made

Acquired in the spring of 2022 this ogee clock was made in Hamilton, Ontario (Canada). The movement was serviced but the case challenged my veneering skills. It looks quite presentable now but was in poor condition when I bought it.

Jerome and Co. Rose Cottage clock

Rose Cottage clock by Jerome & Co.

Quite honestly I was going to throw the case out after having serviced the movement. It simply looks too far gone. However, I have accepted the challenge of bringing back this clock to its former glory. So far it is a work in progress.

Jauch calendar clock

Jauch 8-day calendar clock

From a distance, this clock looks good but a closer examination reveals a cheaply made time-only movement and an equally inexpensive pine case. It is clear that this German company was attempting to cash in on the antique American schoolhouse clock that was popular in the 1970s.

Wag on the wall

Wag on a wall

This has a well-made German movement, possibly by Mauthe or Hermle. It is a time-and-strike weight-driven clock and keeps very good time. Its only negative is that it has a cheap 1960s look about it but the only thing missing is a bottom middle finial.

Sessions Grand Assortment

Grand Assortment by Sessions

Perhaps the ugliest gingerbread clock ever made. The photo is the exact clock I worked on two years ago since the clock is apart at the moment and I have stripped down the case (a last resort).

Sessions Mission clock

Sessions Mission clock, 8-day time and strike

I like this clock not only because it is a 10$ thrift store find but it has very nicely styled mission clock and it works very well, keeping decent time for a spring-driven clock.

Empire gallery clock

English gallery clock with 10-inch dial

I was hoping this was a fusee clock when I bid on it on an online auction in the spring of 2022 but it is a spring-driven 8-day clock with a fairly robust movement that was intended for commercial use, a store, an office environment perhaps.

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

I have a couple of Danel Pratt woodworks clock. Unfortunately, this one is missing its topper. Servicing woodworks movements takes special care and attention and I may tackle this clock in the spring.

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

I seem to gravitate toward 30-hour clocks. This is a time-and-strike clock and is in decent condition requiring only a few touchups.

My favorite?

Well, it has to be the time-only fusee which is probably why I subconsciously placed it first on the list. It well built industrial-strength clock that was designed to last for years. It looks great on any wall, is very quiet, and quite accurate which is what fusee movements are known for.

Sessions time and strike movement with a stiff minute hand

Most mechanical clocks have an hour hand concentric with the minute hand with the hour hand making one full turn every twelve hours. The special set of wheels off the centre arbour is called the motion works. Attached to the centre arbour is the minute hand. The hour pipe fits over the centre arbour and to it is attached the hour hand. This set of gears, called the motion works, is driven by the time train and powered by a spring or a weight.

I am working on a movement made by the Sessions Clock Co. It is from a model called the Grand Assortment probably made sometime before 1920. This is Grand Assortment #1 in a series of three.

Slightly blurry auction photo

The case is in rough shape and certainly needs some tender loving care. I thought my major challenge was putting life back into a tired case (another story) but it appears the movement needs resuscitation as well.

Note from a previous owner, this clock is from around 1915 or so, not 1903

Adjusting the time on the clock is a challenge because the minute hand is very stiff and takes some effort to move it. Something is amiss with the motion works, the time train itself or both.

Motion works at the centre of the movement

I initially cleaned the movement, checked for wear and determined that the little wear I observed should not be enough to affect the running of the clock.

I reassembled the movement and while on the test stand the problem reoccurred, a minute hand that was just as stiff to move as before and after a few hours, the movement simply stopped. I later discovered that the homemade click spring on the time side had unhooked and caught on the second wheel.

As received. Hmm, the pendulum rod is missing

I am not an expert on the meshing depth of gear teeth but I suspect that there is enough wear in the motion works and the time train to prevent the gear teeth from engaging smoothly with the contact point of the next gear, the lantern pinion. The combination of wear in several locations might produce the stiff centre arbour condition. Based on this theory I went ahead with bushing work.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine
Drilling a hole in the plate with Bergeon bushing machine

This time I was somewhat more discerning concerning potential wear points and yes, a more careful inspection revealed there was likely enough wear to affect the running of the clock. I began with new bushings on the escape wheel rear plate and third and fourth wheels on the time side and finally the second wheel back plate for a total of 4 bushings on the time side; nothing on the strike side. It looked fine.

Reassembly

The main wheel arbours on this movement aren’t interchangeable. It is easy to confuse the two. After reassembling the movement I noticed that the plate did not go all the way down on the strike side. I compared the two arbours and the time side arbour is narrower at the top. Swapping them back to where they belonged fixed it.

Sessions mainsprings on this movement are not interchangeable

Setting up the strike side correctly on the first go-around is probably more luck than skill but this time there was no additional fiddling with the correct position of the warning wheel which is just below the fly.

I did not completely eliminate the stiff centre arbor but it is improved and the clock is running well. If I have to take it apart a third time I will check for a bent arbour in the train or the center arbour itself or a bent pivot.

Now to address a pretty sad-looking case.

Tick Talk Tuesday #44 – What can you tell me about this clock?

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

ED writes

Good morning, 

I recently bought a house and the previous owners left this clock behind. It ticks and chimes and seems to be in working order. I’m wondering if you could tell me more about it like what time period it is from and if it is of any value. 

Dial face of the Westminster C

Thank you in advance for your time!

My reply

Hi and thanks for your email.

The Westminster C is an unusual clock because it has 2 gear trains to perform what is usually done with 3 gear trains in most clocks, rare but not unique.  In most chiming clocks there are three trains or three winding points, one for time, one for strike and one for the chimes.

Two train patented movement

This model is based on patent designs filed in 1926 and 1930. Production of the patented movement began in 1927 so, your clock would be around that time and possibly a year or two later. There is a date stamp on the label but I cannot make it out. Could it be 2912, December 1929?

Possibly manufactured in December 1929

The sale price in 1931 was $29.95, a working man’s weekly salary at the time.

It is a very complicated movement that few repairers enjoy working on, because it is difficult to set it up correctly to have it run reliably. If your clock is running well, you are quite lucky because a repair can be very expensive.

They are uncommon enough that they can still fetch a good price on auction sites ($300-$400 or so).

Hope this helps.

ED write back

This is absolutely fascinating! Thank you for your quick reply. I am now looking at that clock through different eyes. 

I appreciate your help, and I hope you have a wonderful weekend. 

The time-only clock – simplicity without the noise

People often tell me that they could never have an old-fashioned antique clock in their home because of the noise. And by noise, they are not so much disturbed by the ticking sound as they are about the sound a clock makes on the quarter, half, or on the hour, in other words, a striking or a chiming clock.

But, the ticking sound might also be bothersome. Some of my clocks are loud tickers, they can easily be heard in the next room. Some, on the other hand, are silent tickers, and the only way to determine if they are running is to approach them or observe the movement of the minute hand.

I completed work on a German Jauch time-only clock the other day and could not believe how quiet it was. This is not an expensive clock by any means. So cheap in fact that I only paid $1.65 for it, but that’s another story. It is not rare either, thousands were made but it was engineered to be very quiet.

Jauch calendar clock CA.1979

Of the 90+ clocks I have in my collection, 20 are time-only, that is they are not striking or chiming clocks, they simply tell the time. And it is their simplicity that intrigues me. Many are wall clocks, a couple are calendar clocks, most are antiques and some are vintage. Clocks in and around bedrooms are time-only and all 4 kitchen clocks are time-only as well.

Three clocks located in our kitchen that are set to 3 time zones

Here are eight of my time-only clocks (starting with the Jauch above) and a story behind each one.

This is probably one of the more expensive wall clocks in my collection. It is an unnamed Vienna-style regulator.

Miniature Vienna Regulator
Miniature Vienna Regulator CA.1880

It is in its original finish. The finials on top might have been added but it is difficult to tell. Otherwise, the clock is complete. It was found on a local online for-sale site and the seller did not budge much from his asking price but it is one of my favorite clocks. Sadly, I do not know anything about its history.

Lexington banjo clock CA. 1927
Lexington banjo clock CA. 1927

I picked up this clock while on vacation in the USA. It was found in an antique mall in Michigan. A very simple clock, cheap and it runs very well though because it is spring driven it is not one of my better timekeepers. The ticking is just soft enough to be soothing which is why it is the only clock running in our bedroom.

Federal-style banjo clock, possibly John Sawin CA.1840

This Federal-style weight-driven banjo clock was discovered at a yard sale near my home. The seller was trying to steer me toward a 30-hour clock for an outrageous price that I knew was worthless but they obviously did not know the value of this Federal-style banjo clock so I bought it instead for a ridiculously low price.

It was a family clock held by a collector in Wolfville, Nova Scotia (Canada) for a number of years until he passed away. It is a weight-driven clock, very accurate, very well constructed, and very well preserved. The dial glass was broken and other than that, it came as you see it in the photo.

Seth Thomas #2
Seth Thomas #2 CA.1920

This 8-day time-only clock came from a business establishment in Toronto, Ontario (Canada). It was well cared for, serviced regularly, and very accurate. The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was also a popular choice for train stations across North America.

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton; 15-day clock CA.1930

This mahogany-cased gem is an Arthur Pegugant Moncton 15-day double spring time-only clock that was a popular choice for business establishments. It is also from the Toronto area.

Gilbert Admiral with calendar CA.1895

Found in a local antique shop locally this Gilbert Admiral calendar clock looks great on any wall. Unfortunately, I know nothing about it. It could have been either an office or a schoolhouse clock.

Kienzle World Time clock
Kienzle World Time clock; CA.1949

Highly sought after this Kienzle World Time clock commands high prices on auction sites. This example is in pristine condition and runs but has not been serviced. It was found in an antique shop in Kazabaszua, Quebec. The clock was designed by Heinrich Möller, chief designer for Kienzle Clock Co. of Germany, and it was considered a higher-end big desk office clock that displays world time zones. I can only imagine an important import-export dealer with this on their desk barking orders to send things here and there.

From a repairer’s point of view, time-only clocks are the simplest clocks to work on since there is not much to them. There is only one train and any repairs are straightforward and far less complicated than clocks with two or three trains. On the whole, they are more accurate, particularly weight-driven varieties because they lack the complexity of all those additional wheels and levers which only serve to add friction to any movement. Perhaps its simplicity is its greatest attraction.

My advice. If you are looking for an antique clock and plan to run it but might be bothered by the noise, consider a time-only clock. You will thank me.

Simplicity without the noise.

Sessions Mission style clock – an interesting challenge to what should have been a routine servicing

This is the only mission-style clock in my collection. Made by the Sessions Clock Co. of America in or about the 1920s it reflects classic Mission design and is rather attractive. I was not searching for this clock but a $10 find in a Pembroke, Ontario thrift shop is hard to pass up.

Though this clock is a non-running Sessions movement they are simple enough to work on. The time side was easy to get running with a simple crutch adjustment but there was a good reason the strike side had not been working in many years. After servicing the movement I now understand why it ended up in a thrift shop.

Mission-style clock by Sessions

The case is in reasonably good condition requiring a light cleaning and there is nothing missing overall save the winding key which can be easily sourced. The minute hand fell apart while I was setting the time, probably as a result of being bent so many times but it can be easily repaired.

The movement is a conventional Sessions design with a between-the-plates escapement setup as opposed to earlier Sessions movements that had outboard escapements. The movement is complete and everything is there including a few extra parts thrown in for “good” measure.

Movement issues

I observed a number of “X” marks around bushings but absent are punch marks or replacement bushings. Was there a plan to install new bushings?

An X mark beside a bushing hole and why the mysterious drilled hole adjacent to the escape wheel bushing hole

An “X” mark usually indicates a bushing hole that requires remediation, and why is the mysterious hole perilously close to the escape wheel bushing hole?

The cam wheel pegs for the strike lever have both been soldered and although it is not the neatest work the repair seems solid.

Soldered cam wheel pegs

The actuator arm for the hour strike had been bent so many times that it snapped off when I tried to test the clock before disassembly. This can also be repaired.

The real fun begins

I make it a point to label the mainsprings so that the time and the strike mainspring return to the same location. At times it makes little difference but, at other times, as in the case of this movement, the difference is significant.

In this movement, there is a slight difference in the strike mainspring arbour design so that the arbours cannot be reversed. Because of the slight variation in the strike side mainspring arbour the gears do not mesh correctly if the arbour is reversed. A past repairer switched the two mainspring arbours, time to strike side and strike to time side, and bent wheels to make them fit.

The count wheel is shaped into a bowl to force it to engage the second wheel arbour

Because the mainspring arbours were switched, a previous repairer had screwed a small brass piece into the plate to push the arbour to the right and enable the second wheel to engage the count wheel.

Brass “fix”
A brass piece (left) was screwed into the plate to push the second wheel toward the count wheel

A piece soldered onto the arbour to prevent lateral movement was unnecessary because the abours had been switched.

Brass piece soldered onto the time side mainspring (below hammer) to prevent the arbour from moving too much

It took a couple of assembling and disassembling tries to discover the problem, which is valuable time wasted on the bench.

In short, a past repairer did not understand what they were doing and made unnecessary changes complicating what would otherwise be a routine service. Home-cooked repairs are at times functional but often they are an absolute disaster and sometimes the most challenging part of clock repair is fixing other people’s shoddy repairs.

The remainder of servicing went as expected. There was some movement of the pivots in the pivot holes but not enough to justify bushing work at this time. As expected there is less wear on the strike side.

Minute hand fixed, hands, bob, and numerals polished and now on display

So, another clock was brought back to life and a satisfactory repair despite the challenges.

Sessions Mission style wall clock – past shoddy repairs make servicing a challenge

Between 1903 and 1933 the Sessions Clock Company of America produced 52 models of mechanical clocks ranging from simple mantel clocks and shelf clocks to wall or “regulator” clocks all designed for the home or small businesses.

Found in many homes across America Sessions clocks were regarded as relatively inexpensive, simple in design, and decently constructed aside from one noted design flaw, the clicks. After a hundred years many Sessions clocks are still running.

Mission style clock by Sessions

This is the only mission-style clock in my collection. I was not particularly looking for this one but a $10 find in a thrift shop is hard to pass up. Though this clock is non-running Sessions movements are simple enough to work on.

As there is no maker’s label I can’t tell you the model name or number of this wall clock but I assume that it was made in the early part of the 20th century.

The movement

The case is in very good condition and there is nothing missing save the winding key which can be easily sourced. The minute hand broke while I was setting the time, probably as a result of being bent so many times. That can be repaired.

Sessions movement with front plate off

The movement is a conventional Sessions design with a between-the-plates escapement setup as opposed to earlier Sessions movements that had inboard escapements.

I noticed many “X” marks around bushings but I did not see punch marks or replacement bushings. Was it meant to have had the bushings replaced?

Servicing the mainsprings

The cam wheel pegs for the striking lever have both been soldered and although it is not a very neat job the repair seems strong enough.

There is a hole adjacent to the escape wheel arbor which might have been made through manufacture but it is oddly close to the escape wheel bushing hole.

One more issue. The actuator arm for the hour strike had been bent so many times that it snapped off when I tried to test the clock before disassembly. This can also be repaired.

In short, this is a clock that has been worked on in the past and I would think, not by a professional. Sometimes home-cooked repairs are strong and functional and other times they leave a lot to be desired.

All is not lost and I think this movement can be saved.

Mission style wall clock from Sessions – first look

Once the Sessions Clock Co acquired E. N. Welch assets in 1902 (for more on the history of E. N. Welch Clock Co. go here) the company was well on its way to becoming one of the biggest clock producers in America. Production began in 1903 and between that time and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from Advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or regulator clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home.

The vast majority of Sessions clocks are generic types that have limited value today. I do not know one particular clock made by Sessions that is highly sought after by collectors today although if there is one, please let me know. Found in many homes across North America, they were robust and strong runners despite being inexpensive and plentiful. You might call them the Chevrolet of American clocks.

Of those, I have worked on, the one Achilles heel is the flimsy click design.

I did not have a Mission-style clock in my collection so, this is a long overdue acquisition. Items missing on this clock are the winding key, a #6, and a label which is normally affixed to the backboard. Hence I do not know the model’s name.

In the below photo, the minute hand is missing. I have it but it snapped in two when I attempted to set the time and it will need to be repaired.

Sessions Mission style wall clock

The mainsprings were wound tight. Rather than let the springs down I ran the time side of the clock during the summer. The time side appeared to be fine, a small matter of putting it in beat but the strike side was erratic and struck either at will or incessantly. Something is amiss on the strike side and that means servicing is in order.

I noticed almost immediately that there is what looks like homemade bushing on the second wheel strike side much like a Rathburn bushing but obviously done by a home handyman. It likely works okay but I will remove it to see what issues I find.

Looking over the movement I can see that it has been serviced several times. The pillar nuts are chewed up and there are X marks besides most of the bushing holes and of course one or two bushings with punch marks. I also see a bit of soft solder on the movements in various places such as the third wheel strike side, and time side main wheel arbor which tells me that the repairs were not professional.

I will have a more detailed description of the movement when I dive deep into cleaning and repairing it in the days to come.

Calibrating a typical American spring-driven mechanical clock

In our quest to have our antique mechanical clocks run accurately the immediate response is to regulate the clock, but have you thought about calibrating your mechanical clock? It is not as difficult as it sounds.

This is not the same as regulating your clock. A properly regulated Anerican-made spring-driven clock will show the correct time at the beginning of the week but will run fast through the week and may gain as much as 3 or 4 minutes mid-week and lose time at the end of the week.

Seth Thomas round top
Seth Thomas spring driven round top 8-day clock

Let’s use a spring-driven mantel clock with an 8-day cycle for our example.

Mainsprings release their peak power at the beginning of their cycle. As the mainspring winds down power is gradually released until the spring unwinds completely and the clock stops.

Gilbert spring driven wall clock

On some antique clocks, one might find “stop works” (otherwise called a Geneva stop) which is a clever star-shaped brass add-on to the main wheel that reduces the full release of power initially by flattening the mainspring’s power curve over its rated cycle (8-days) and thus maintain some level of accuracy through the week.

Geneva stops as indicated by the white arrows

But most clocks I have come across don’t have this ingenious device.

Weight-driven clocks are a different kettle of fish because the release of power is constant throughout the week. Once a weight-driven clock is regulated it should not require calibration.

Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator with weights

Calibration makes the assumption that your spring-driven clock will never accurately tell the time at any one given point in its cycle and essentially means setting your clock so that it loses no more than a couple of minutes at any given time through the week.

Sessions mainsprings, one for the time train and the other for the strike train

According to the Canadian Oxford dictionary to calibrate means “to correlate readings of an instrument with a standard”. If the standard is plus or minus two minutes per week, without the use of “stops” or other means to flatten the power curve, setting the clock two minutes slow at the beginning of the week will ensure that it is never off by more than a minute or two through the week.

According to noted horologist Robert H. Croswell, “If the clock is regulated such that it has a zero net gain or loss of time from the start to the end of the week, then take ½ the maximum fast error during the week and set the clock that many minutes “slow” when the clock is wound.” If the maximum is 6 minutes, then, half would be three minutes.

One could use a complex mathematical formula to determine the precise amount of time to set the clock at the beginning of the week but setting it two minutes slow for a clock that loses 4 minutes each week should suffice for most purposes.

Three small drop octagons that match – finally!

Some years ago I had this brainy idea that I would have a trio of time zone clocks above our main computer in the kitchen so, when one of our children called, all we had to do was glance at the wall to see what local time it was in their region.

Back then we had a daughter in Victoria, British Columbia, another in Calgary, Alberta, and a son in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Our daughter has since moved to Ottawa, Ontario.

It was a great idea but not perfect.

Trio of clocks
Trio of clocks representing 3 time zones

The New Haven time and strike clock (the middle one in the photo above) was not as small as I wanted but it was all I had at the time. The New Haven clock was eventually gifted and replaced by an Ansonia time-only which was also still too large.

Ansonia clock project is complete
Ansonia time-only clock

The search was on for a third 14-inch drop octagon time-only clock to complete the trio. It did not matter who the maker was. It took a while but as luck would have I saw one on an online auction in the spring of this year.

It is a Sessions time-only drop octagon and identical in dimensions to the two others.

The trouble was I was not going to pay a reserve auction bid of $100CDN (79US, 63GBP). As much as I wanted the clock the price was too high though some of you may disagree.

It appeared to be in very good condition judging from the auction photos and there was nothing much wrong with it except for incorrect minute and hour hands (it would have had longer and thicker closed spade hands).

Sessions time-only clock

We had already purchased 4 clocks at this particular online auction and elected to pick them up instead of having them shipped.

When my wife called to ensure someone was there when we arrived at the auction house she was told that all unsold clocks would be individually priced and sold without tax and buyer’s premium. Luckily the Sessions was one of few unsold clocks but the price was half the reserve. So, we bought it and now it graces our wall.

The newest (middle) in our trio of clocks, from left to right, Sessions, Sessions, Waterbury

Two Sessions and a Waterbury clock. They all look great!

Servicing a Sessions Grand Assortment time and strike movement

The Grand Assortment was sold “six in a case” to retailers who then sold them separately. The name “Assortment” seems appropriate and I am not surprised that some collectors refer to them simply as the Grand. So, was the “Assortment” a choice among a number of Grands (Grand 1, Grand 2, etc.)?

Auction Photo

Selling clocks in lots of 6 was a fairly common practice in the early part of the 20th century. An individual might order one of the clocks either directly from Sessions or working through a retailer but would normally select one from the retailer’s shelf.

This clock was bought at auction in the spring (of 2022). The plan is to fix it up and sell it to offset a recent equipment acquisition. I am not normally in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to keep my collection manageable.

The clock case needs quite a bit of work which I will address in a future article.

The movement looks good but it is very grimy, no surprise there. We’ll get to that later in this post.

The Sessions dial

The dial, however, may not be salvageable. One option is a new paper dial, and another is a replacement with a suitable and period-correct alternative. I have the same size Arabic dial from an Ingraham gingerbread that I might use. Manufacturers interchanged Roman Numerals and Arabic dials on some models and I have seen at least one Grand Assortment on the internet with an Arabic dial so, an Arabic dial may be a good look.

These Sessions models were around for a number of years up to 1915 or so and like everything else the gingerbread clock fell out of style. I imagine this one sat on a shelf as a decoration for a good number of years after that.

The movement

Apart from having an even coating of dirt and grime all over the movement, there is surprisingly little wear.

A very dirty movement

Most Sessions movements I have come across have had a hard life and usually require a fair bit of intervention in terms of repairs including numerous new bushings. This movement may not need any as far as I can determine during my initial assessment. As a matter of fact, this is probably the least worn Sessions movement I have ever worked on. It is not without issues, however.

Judging from pivot scratch marks, wrench marks on the plate around the pillar nuts, mangled helper wires, and a replacement spring for the click on the time side it certainly has been worked on in the past, likely cleaned more than once.

A coating of dirt all over the movement

There was a film of rust on the mainsprings, not enough to write them off and they still have plenty of power left in them.

Trademark

Clicks are a documented weakness in Sessions’ movements. Both sides were in good condition although I had to re-attach the click spring on the time side. A past repairer had attempted a fix and replaced the original wire with a steel replacement wire that looks homemade, but it works. It just needed tightening.

The helper springs were evidently broken at some point and shortened. One was wrapped around the top pillar post and the lifting lever was wrapped around the count lever. Both should be attached to a pillar. I was able to reuse one but the other had to be replaced.

Helper springs top center

Most, but not all, American time and strike clocks have helper springs to maintain tension on lifting and locking levers. Springs are occasionally removed from a movement either because they are broken and/or repairers do not understand their function.

New helper spring

The mainsprings are in good condition. They were cleaned and oiled.

Mainspring retention clip to restrain the power of the springs

No bushing work is required for this movement which is a rarity for old American clocks I have come across. All pivots were polished, pivot holes pegged out and now for reassembly.

This is a fairly easy movement to reassemble but the strike side count and drop levers must be in the correct position in order for the strike side to function correctly. That means the drop lever is in the slot of the cam and the count lever is in the deep slot of the count wheel. The lock pin on the wheel just below the fan must also be next to the locking lever.

Sometimes I get it right the first time but often I must separate the plates on the top corner and re-adjust the locking wheel.

Everything in place but the escape wheel

Once re-assembled it is placed on the test stand for several cycles.

On the test stand

The next step is addressing the clock case finish.

The clock case needs quite a bit of work and may require stripping, not something I do as a matter of routine but in its present condition, it will never attract a buyer.

Grand Assortment by Sessions – is the assortment really that grand?

This is not the first Grand Assortment clock from the Sessions Clock Co. that I have worked on. In June 2019 I repaired a family member’s clock. It is exactly the same model.

Auction photo

The Grand Assortment was sold “six in a case” to retailers who then sold them separately. The name “assortment” seems appropriate and I am not surprised that some collectors refer to them simply as the Grand. Selling clocks in lots of 6 was a fairly common practice in the early part of the 20th century. An individual could probably order one of the clocks either directly from Sessions or working through a retailer but would normally select one from a retailer’s shelf.

Styles of Grand Assortment

Tran Duy Ly shows this Assortment model from the 1915 catalogue. It was likely made earlier but this style of clock was well on its way out by about 1915. This is Grand No. 3 and the price was $4.00, a day’s salary for a working man. All were eight-day runners but could be ordered with alarm (45 cents extra), cathedral bell (45 cents more), or standard wire bell.

This one was purchased at auction for $35 and listed as “not-tested”. “Not-tested” is an interesting auction term for “it may or may not work and it probably doesn’t”.

The note came with the clock (1903 is the year Sessions began making clocks)

Gingerbread clocks also called “kitchen clocks” were introduced after the American Civil War and remained popular until the end of World War I. The term is derived from the tradition of making decorated gingerbread houses which began in Germany in the early 1800s. The broad application of the gingerbread style applied to almost anything including clocks.

However, gingerbread clocks have polarizing designs. Collectors either love them or hate them. I am not particularly fond of the design of this one but I can see how many at the time were attracted to the style.

The clocks’ cases were steam-pressed oak and occasionally other hardwoods were used. Various designs were pressed by a heat-bond process which was quite advanced for the time. It was a time-saver, spectacular designs were pressed within seconds and it saved on labour costs. Hundreds of thousands of these steam-pressed oak-cased clocks were made and all are now well over 100+ years old.

The clock is 22 inches tall, ten inches wide with a 6-inch dial. It is a time-and-strike movement striking the hour and half-hour on a coiled wire gong.

I am not a huge fan of Sessions’ movements, particularly from this vintage. Too many helper springs, frustrating to re-assemble, and setting up the strike side is always finicky plus the poorly designed weak clicks are prone to failure (yet they’ve lasted this long!). Set up properly they will run reliably for years and are reasonably good time-keepers for a spring-driven clock.

Is it worth fixing? Certainly, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the movement but the case is in rough shape and will require considerable intervention. The paper dial on tin is also in poor condition. Quite often the crown is broken, pieces missing or cracked which is the case for this one and unfortunately, it is not very well glued back together.

The Plan

The movement should be fairly easy to service. I don’t see a lot wrong with it upon initial inspection. As expected it is quite dirty but I don’t see a lot of wear. I won’t know conclusively until I take it apart. The plan is to put the movement in proper running order.

A dirty movement but there does not seem to be a lot of wear

The finish is badly aligorated and will need a lot of work. “Aligorated” means that over time the surface of the case was exposed to heat and high humidity causing the shellac to coagulate in clumps resulting in a mottled finish. I will attempt to renew the finish which might involve stripping the finish. That may sound extreme but it may be the only solution.

The dial is in poor condition

Rust has bled through the paper dial and as such it is beyond hope and will be impossible to restore. I may change out the Roman numeral dial with an Arabic dial from an E. Ingraham gingerbread clock from the same period. The dial size is exactly the same and the centre canon and winding arbours fit perfectly. Checking on the internet I note that there are several Grand Assortments with Arabic dials.

Once the movement is serviced and the case is redone, there should be a dramatic improvement. I have already decided that I will not be keeping it as it will be resold to offset equipment costs.

The count wheel is on backward – oops

Those of you who work on mechanical clocks regularly must have run into this situation at least once. Everything went perfectly until the very end.

Sessions time and strike movements are very common and I have worked on quite a few over the years. They are reasonably well constructed with the exception of a well-documented poorly designed click.

Worn click on a Sessions movement

The other day I was working on a movement that I had originally serviced 5 1/2 years ago. Back in 2016, I installed 10 bushings, quite a number for any clock but it was very worn. It has run exceptionally well since then but now it was time for an inspection, cleaning, oiling, and correcting any possible issues.

Sessions movement in a wall clock

I took the movement apart, cleaned the plates, wheels, and levers in my ultrasonic cleaner (which I did not have back in 2016), and reassembled the movement. As expected the movement is much shinier than before and looks like it came off the factory floor.

During my inspection, I found minor wear but the only location where a bushing was required was the second wheel backplate. I could have left it but it was worn enough to need a new bushing.

Backward count wheel

It’s back together and being tested. Okay, I had to open up the strike side to reposition the stop wheel to correct warning but that’s about it.

It now runs perfectly and a nice pat on the back for me but oh! oh! wait…..it is not quite perfect, because I don’t think three o’clock follows four.

Dang, the count wheel is on backward. Why didn’t I see that?

You probably expected me to express a few choice words but I looked at it and said, ha, that’s too funny!

5 minutes was all it required to put it right and now it sounds great. Four o’clock now follows three o’clock. Yes!

A Sessions clock is on the bench 5 years later – what needs to be done?

A mechanical clock is a machine and all machines require periodic maintenance. Five years might be considered a long time since the movement on a Sessions time and strike mantel clock was first worked on when 2-3 years is the norm between service intervals but let’s agree that it has not been an easy time these past two years and priorities have shifted.

I have not opened this clock up since 2016 and I wonder if any surprises await me. I worked on this clock in 2016, so, it is a judgment on my own workmanship.

Sessions Beveled #2

It was purchased locally from a person who knew absolutely nothing about clocks, making a few bucks on whatever he could get his hands on. He could not tell me one darn thing about it only that it was not working. The case was in rough shape and it was less than $40, so, I bought it.

Although I had worked on several clocks prior to this one, it was an important part of my journey in clock repair because I was now able to put my newly acquired Bergeon bushing machine to the test.

Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine purchased in 2016

Back then I installed 10 bushings, replaced the pendulum bob and suspension spring, oiled the movement, reinstalled it, and refreshed the case. Not the best timekeeper in the world but that is the nature of spring-driven American clocks of that era (the 1920s).

Disassembly and Inspection

I always approach the inspection and servicing of a clock that I have serviced in the past in much the same way I would service a clock that has just come into my collection. The steps are identical; inspect, restrain mainsprings, clean all parts, peg out bushing holes, polish pivots, address wear issues, assemble, oil and test. This clock is no different.

Backplate off and showing the helper springs

First, remove the hour and minute hands. Next, put the clock on its face and remove the 4 screws that hold the movement in place. Pull the movement out of the case, place the case aside, and let the mainsprings down into the mainspring retention clamps.

Mainsprings are removed

Never attempt to take apart a spring-driven movement without first restraining the mainsprings. This is a very important first step in clock repair and it is obvious for safety reasons.

Mainspring contained in a clamp
Mainspring contained in a retention clamp

During the servicing, as I usually do, I will check all pivots and bushings but most particularly the mainspring clicks which is a well-documented weakness in Sessions movements.

As I began taking the movement apart I noticed a badly kinked suspension spring which will have to be replaced. This usually occurs when a clock is moved without removing the pendulum bob. We have had some home renovations this past two years and the clock has been moved about the house. My fault, actually.

I generally take many photos during servicing but there is no requirement this time since I have kept the photos I took from 2016. However, if anything is noteworthy at this juncture, I will record it.

One item I did not own five years ago was a high-quality ultrasonic cleaning machine. The movement is dirtier than I expected and there is blackish oil around some (not all) of the pivots. I was probably a little overzealous with oiling and perhaps not as careful as I should have been polishing the pivots. It definitely requires a good cleaning and my American-made L&R Quantrex 140 with internal heater will be put to good use.

Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R

I have been working with so many German movements lately I can’t remember the last time I worked on an American one, let alone a Sessions clock. It has been months, so, here we go!

I pulled the plates apart and inspected the movement for wear. There is more blackened oil up the train (mentioned above) than I was expecting which tells me that if not addressed now it will lead to accelerated wear of the pivots and bushing holes and eventual stoppage of the clock. There is the tiniest bit of wear on the 4th wheel back-plate but not enough to justify replacing at this time.

The second wheels, front, and back, which were not attended to then, may now need attention. The good news is that all the replacement bushings from 2016 remain in very good condition.

It looks like at least one new bushing on the strike side wheel, not surprising since it bears the brunt of mainspring power. While there is some wear on the other three I can live with it but the fourth on the strike side back-plate is somewhat oval-shaped as you can see in this photo.

Worn pivot hole on the strike side

Though not as bad as others I’ve seen in American clocks that are well worn, there is enough play in this wheel to justify a new bushing.

The New bushing

The click and rivet design are a special problem on Sessions clocks, and I am happy to see that both clicks are in good condition after 5 years. It might be unfair to criticize parts that are nearly 100 years old. The photo shows what a worn click would look like.

Worn click on another Sessions movement

After the parts are cleaned in the ultrasonic and thoroughly dried, the bushing holes are pegged and the pivots polished. Now for the new bushing.

The pivot measured 1.62mm and I chose one with an inside diameter of 1.60mm. After broaching (cutting followed by a smoothing broach) it was a perfect fit.

Now for reassembly. The strike side levers with helper springs under tension can often be a challenge to stay in place during reassembly but the key is patience. Oiling and testing are next.

What did the movement look like after 5 1/2 years? The blackish oil was a little concerning but overall the movement is in great shape. It is certainly cleaner and shinier than before.

And it runs like a charm.

The Pressed Wood Kitchen Clock

Pequegnat Canuck kitchen clock

Ah, the kitchen clock!

Most clock enthusiasts have at least one kitchen clock in their collection and some collect them exclusively. I am not a huge fan of them but they very popular and considered important clocks because of their relatively low cost and availability.

Thousands of inexpensive oak-cased clocks were made by various American and Canadian manufacturers in the late 19th Century to the early part of the 20th Century. They are cheap, plentiful, reliable and easy to regulate.

They were typically sold in box lots of a half a dozen or so to merchants and offered for sale to customers for a unit price of around $4.50.

Although commonly called the kitchen clock it is sometimes called the pressed wood clock.

The designs were created by using high pressure rotary presses on oak wood that had been pre-steamed to soften it. The front of the clocks frequently displayed glass tablets with bronze or silver gilt designs.

This Arthur Pequegnat Canuck clock (above) is a typical pressing with floral designs on the top crown, base, and side columns, two upper rosettes and a framed access door with a floral style glass tablet.

Pressing designs into wood was much less expensive and quicker than machine carving, though the designs tended to be taken to excess at times like we see on this Sessions Grand Assortment with a top heavy ornate crown.

Sessions Grand Assortment

American manufacturers offered kitchen clocks with slight variations in the configuration of the case components and the decoration on the glass panel. It was common to name or number the clocks and present them as part of a series.

All kitchen clocks were 8-day running and featured either a one piece or two-piece 6-inch painted dial with Roman or Arabic numerals, railroad track minute chapter ring, and blued moon shaped or spade hands. A pendulum regulated the timing. The clocks included a half-hour strike on a bell or a coiled gong and some were offered with both bell on the half-hour strike and coiled gong on the hour. Additional features such as an alarm added pennies to the cost.

With inexpensive changes in the design for the press and minor changes to the case elements, clocks of different designs could be produced. Design elements for the pendulum varied between a plain round bob to a decorative pendulum bob in many pressed wood kitchen clocks.

Steam pressed designs were not confined to kitchen clocks and quickly found their way to wall clocks like the Gilbert Admiral.

Gilbert Admiral drop octagon wall clock

I have about 100 clocks in my collection and only two are steam-pressed. It is not a style that I am actively seeking but, admittedly, some are attractive. They are easy enough to find, fairly cheap and are relatively uncomplicated to service.

Sessions electric table clock refinishing – a father-daughter project

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Finish almost completely gone
Finish almost completely gone, right side

My daughter found this vintage Sessions electric table clock, a model 3W and gave it to me as a Christmas gift. It is made, by the Sessions Clock Co. Forestville, Connecticut in 1936 and sold in Canada (a Canadian Standards Approval sticker is on the back).

Left side

On the back, it states that it consumes 2.5 watts, I guess they couldn’t call it model 2.5! It was probably a very affordable clock in its day and available almost anywhere.

At 4 1/2 inches tall and 8 1/4 inches wide, it would fit on any countertop, bookcase etc. but it lacks an alarm it would not be a suitable bedside table clock. There is only one control in the rear, a push-and-twist-in knob that sets the time. Pretty simple!

On the workbench
Stripping the finish

Everything else, the face, hands, brass bezel were in great shape but the finish on the case had almost completely worn off. It is one block of wood and likely pine and likely tinted lacquer.

My daughter and I chose to work on the finish together. We stripped the case down completely and applied a light walnut stain. Several coats of shellac followed by sanding with 0000 steel wool between coats and finishing with paste wax completed the project.

New and improved 3W

The result is a richer, darker finish, more in keeping with the original. Given that it runs so well a refinish is a complement to a very simple but stylish desk clock.

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