Category: Ogee

Top 9 Antique Clock Myths Debunked for Collectors

If you’ve been around antique or vintage clocks for any length of time, as I have, you’ve probably heard a few “truths” that get passed along like family recipes. Some have a sprinkle of fact in them, others are pure folklore, and a few can actually cause more harm than good. So, let’s sit down, pour a cup of coffee on this fine Monday morning, and bust a few of the most common myths I hear all the time.

Myth #1 – Overwinding A Clock

Let’s start with the big one: the infamous “over-winding” myth. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard, “It was running fine until I over-wound it!” Here’s the reality — you can’t hurt a healthy clock just by winding it all the way. If it stops when fully wound, the culprit is likely dried oil, dirt, or worn parts. Old, dried-up oil can turn into a sticky glue that causes the mainspring coils to cling to each other, thereby stopping a clock.

When I bring home an old spring-wound clock, the very first thing I do is let the springs down completely, give them just a small wind, and then see if the movement runs. If it does, that’s my cue that the springs need a proper cleaning and lubrication, right along with the rest of the movement.

Myth #2 – More Oil Is Better

Then there’s the advice some give to oil a clock every single year. I get it — we want our clocks to run smoothly. But adding fresh oil without cleaning first is like pouring new motor oil into an engine without changing the filter. You’re just mixing clean oil with grime and making an abrasive paste that speeds up wear. Most clocks are perfectly happy with a proper cleaning and oiling every four to five years. The only exception is that, after an inspection at the two-year mark, if it’s clear the pivots are dry and there is no residue around the pivot holes, a light oiling is a prudent step, provided only a small amount of clock oil is applied.

Myth #3 – A pendulum Clock “Adjusted for level” Will Work On Any Surface

Placement is another overlooked detail. I’ve seen pendulum clocks happily ticking away on a sturdy wall, and I’ve seen others struggle just because they’re sitting on a wobbly shelf. Uneven or unstable surfaces throw the clock out of beat and mess with its timing.

When someone says a pendulum clock was “adjusted for level,” it means that during servicing, the clock was placed on a level surface and its beat was adjusted accordingly. If the clock is later moved to an uneven or non-level surface, the beat will need to be readjusted to match the new position.

Get a clock with a floating balance escapement; it will work nicely on just about any uneven surface.

It is easy to place a mantel clock with a floating balance

Myth # 4 – A loud Ticking Clock Is An Unhealthy Clock

And while we’re on the topic of how a clock sounds — louder doesn’t always mean healthier. A good clock doesn’t need to shout; an even, crisp tick is a much better sign than a booming one.

However, keep in mind that some clocks are loud because of case acoustics, or they are located in areas where the sound is amplified, a hallway or a small room with hard surfaces, perhaps. Some surfaces can even act like acoustic amplifiers.

Arthur Pequegant Brandon II
Arthur Pequegant Brandon wall clock, a loud ticker

I also believe that the type of escapement is a factor. Due to their mechanics, recoil escapements are always louder than all others. I have an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon wall clock with a recoil escapement in a room with six other clocks — and which one is the loudest? The Brandon, of course! It’s almost as if it’s saying, “Look at me, I’m the loudest in this room.”

Myth # 5 – WD-40 Works Well As A lubricant

One myth that makes clock repairers wince? WD-40. Yes, it might make a sticky clock run for a little while. But it also strips away proper lubrication and leaves a sticky film that attracts dust like a magnet. It’s the short-term fix that leads to long-term headaches.

What does the WD in WD-40 stand for? WD in WD-40 stands for “Water Displacement.” The product was originally designed to repel water and prevent rust, and the “40” refers to it being the 40th formula the chemists tried before they found one that worked effectively. Who knew?

Now, please don’t tell me it worked for you!

Myth # 6 – The Older the Clock, The More Valuable It Is

And while we’re setting the record straight, let’s talk value. Not every old clock is a gold mine. Age is only part of the story — rarity, maker, originality, and condition matter much more. Old is not gold, as they say. An 1850 Ogee clock might have stood the test of time, but it was made in the thousands, so it’s actually not all that rare.

George H Clark 30-hour Ogee shelf clock, circa 1850, for a ridiculously low price at auction

Of course, there are always exceptions. Well-preserved French clocks, such as a Louis XIV cartel clock of the 17th century, prized for their exquisite craftsmanship, ornate gilt bronze (ormolu) cases, and fine enamel dials, can be quite valuable.

However, many are often surprised to find out that their 100-plus-year-old clock is worth next to nothing.

Myth # 7 – Don’t Assume Black Forest Means “Made in Germany“

Also, don’t assume the words “Black Forest” mean German-made. Some Canadian and American makers used the name simply because it sounded exotic and marketable. For example, the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (which became the Forestville Clock Company in 1941) produced reliable clocks for the home. While the cases were made in Canada, the movements were sourced from England, France, and, more typically, Germany.

Myth # 8 – It’s Running Fine, So It Doesn’t Need A Service

Another one I hear often: “It’s running fine, so it doesn’t need service.” The truth? Even a clock that’s keeping time can be quietly wearing itself out if it’s running on dry bushings or worn pivots. A thorough inspection should reveal any issues with the clock’s movement.

Myth # 9 – An Antique Clock Should Always Look “Like New”

And please, don’t feel you have to polish away every bit of patina. That gentle wear tells the story of your clock’s journey through the decades.

When we think of antiques, there’s often a temptation to restore them until they look spotless and brand new. But with antique clocks, that shiny, polished look isn’t always the goal, and here’s why.

Patina is the natural aging and mellowing of a clock’s surfaces over time. It’s the soft glow on wood, the subtle tarnish on brass, and the gentle wear marks that tell a story. This “aged finish” is like a fingerprint of the clock’s life, showing decades, sometimes centuries, of use, handling, and care.

Stripping away that patina by over-polishing or refinishing can actually damage the clock’s historical value. Collectors and experts often prize original finishes because they preserve the clock’s authenticity and character. A well-preserved patina connects us directly to the past, making the clock not just a timekeeper but a piece of living history.

Having said all that, I’ll admit I’m certainly guilty of refinishing the odd old clock now and then. After all, I keep many of them for my personal collection, and refinishing is a great way to learn new restoration techniques.

It also allows me to bring out the original beauty that may have been hidden under years of dirt and wear, which I believe is a good thing in certain situations. Plus, sometimes a carefully done refinishing can help stabilize fragile wood or finishes, ensuring the clock can be enjoyed for many more years.

And I will throw in two bonus myths.

Bonus Myth #1 – Serial Numbers Always Tell A Clock’s Date of Manufacture

Lastly, serial numbers. While they can sometimes pinpoint a clock’s date of manufacture, this only works for certain makers with complete records. Unless you can match the serial number to a verified database or understand the dating system the maker used during production, it’s merely an educated guess as to when the clock was made.

Clock company catalogs are an excellent resource for dating an antique clock—if you can find them! For example, if you have a clock made by Junghans of Germany, they offer an excellent catalog archive on their website.

Many of the serial number charts floating around online are best taken as educated guesses, not hard facts.

That said, many movements have no numerical markings beyond the trademark.

Bonus Myth #2 – A Quick Bath Is All A Movement Needs To Run Properly

One common myth I come across is that you can clean a clock simply by dunking the whole movement into a cleaning solution without taking it apart first. It sounds like a quick fix, but in reality, this can cause more harm than good. Clock movements are made up of delicate parts that need to be carefully disassembled, cleaned individually, and then properly lubricated.

Dunking the entire mechanism risks damaging pivots, bushings, and other components, not to mention leaving grime trapped in places you can’t see or reach. Proper cleaning takes time and patience, but it’s the only way to ensure your clock runs smoothly.

Duncan Swish was NOT a famous clockmaker!

At the end of the day, part of the joy of collecting clocks is hearing the stories — and sometimes, debunking them. Myths may be fun to repeat, but knowing the truth will help you keep your clocks in good health and their history intact. After all, a well-cared-for clock doesn’t just tell the time… it tells its own story.

If you know of any other clock myths or stories that deserve a closer look, I’d love to hear them—drop a comment below and let’s keep the conversation ticking!

9

Looking Beyond the Surface: How Survivorship Bias Shapes Our View of Antique Clocks

If you’ve ever browsed an antique shop or clock auction and marveled at the craftsmanship of century-old clocks, you might find yourself thinking: “They sure made things better back then.” And while that’s sometimes true — many antique clocks were built with care and skill — there’s a hidden trap in that assumption.

It’s called survivorship bias.

What Is Survivorship Bias?

Survivorship bias is a common thinking error where we draw conclusions based only on the things that made it through a process, while ignoring those that didn’t. In doing so, we develop a distorted view of reality.

We often lament that cars from the 1950s and ’60s we think were better built than those today, forgetting that many were poorly built even back then. The ones that survive often bear little resemblance to how they were originally manufactured — replacement parts have been modified and improved over the years, making them seem more durable than they actually were. So while some vintage cars were outstanding, the idea that they were all built better doesn’t hold up under scrutiny.

Scottish tall case clock
Scottish tall case clock, circa 1848

We often hear that “Anyone can become a billionaire if they just work hard and follow their passion.” But in reality, we hear about the few massively successful startups like Apple, Google, or Tesla, but not the thousands of startups that fail every year, many with equally passionate, hardworking founders.

In the world of art and literature, we hear, “If your work is good, you’ll get discovered.” But in the real world, many great writers, musicians, and artists never get recognition. We remember Shakespeare, Jimmy Hendrix, Andy Warhol, or Hemingway—not the countless others who were equally or more talented but remained unknown.

And in horology? It means assuming that most antique clocks were well-made, simply because the ones we see today are the ones that survived.

The Clocks We Don’t See

The clocks in our collections today — the Seth Thomas regulators, Arthur Pequegnats, Vienna regulators, and elaborately carved Black Forest cuckoos — survived decades of use. They endured house moves, children’s fingers, neglect, and sometimes even disasters like floods and fires.

Brands like New England Clock Company or Gilbert produced thousands of clocks, but many examples haven’t stood the test of time, not necessarily because they were inferior, but because they were ordinary

But they’re only part of the story.

A great many clocks didn’t make it. Countless kitchen clocks, shelf clocks, novelty pieces, and cheaply made imports wore out, broke down, or simply weren’t valued enough to be saved. Some were discarded when electric clocks — and later, quartz movements — came along.

Others were lost during attic clean-outs, yard sales, or were upcycled (an ogee clock converted into a curio cabinet), while many were simply discarded. In some cases, their movements survived, salvaged as spare parts by a professional repairer or an enthusiast.

A common early 20th-century kitchen clock by Sessions

Designed obsolescence and why old clocks still work

What we don’t see are all the poorly made clocks—both old and modern—that broke down and were discarded, especially those intentionally designed with a limited lifespan. For example, many alarm clocks were built with planned obsolescence in mind. While they are often fixable, they were not originally designed to be repaired.

Baby Ben, made in China
Baby Ben, made in China, designed with a short lifespan in mind

During the late 1800s and early 1900s, companies like Ingraham, Sessions, and Waterbury were churning out affordable clocks for middle-class households. Many of these were built to a price point, not to last generations.

Grandfather clocks from the 1970s and ’80s were often designed with a useful lifespan of about 25 years. So why are so many still running today, decades beyond their expected service life? Survivorship bias may offer us a clue: the ones we still see are the exceptions—the clocks that were better made, gently used, well maintained, or lucky.

The many that failed early or were discarded quietly don’t show up in our collections or on auction sites, so we assume they never existed or that these clocks were built to last forever. But the full picture tells a more nuanced story. Survivorship bias hides their absence, leading us to believe that the average quality was higher than it actually was.

A case in point: my Ridgeway grandfather clock has been running regularly since I acquired it in 2013. The clock isn’t necessarily better made than others from its era, but when I bought it from the seller in Halifax, he told me it had belonged to his mother and was likely rarely kept wound. When it eventually stops—and that day will come—I will face several choices: repair it, replace the movement, or discard the clock altogether.

Ridgeway grandfather clock

So when we look around and see only the clocks that survived, we risk thinking that all clocks from 100 years ago were reliable, attractive, and well-built. That’s not true. We’re looking at a biased sample — the winners of the survival game.

And let’s not forget that many of the clocks we admire today wouldn’t still be ticking if not for the patient efforts of collectors and restorers who brought them back from the brink.

What This Means for Collectors and the Value of Their Prized Clock

Understanding survivorship bias in horology serves as a helpful reminder to appreciate the clocks we do have — they endured, though the fact that they survived does not necessarily make them valuable or rare.

Recognizing this bias helps us avoid assuming that everything old is of high quality or value, and encourages us to remain open to discovering lesser-known makers or designs that weren’t widely preserved, perhaps because they were ahead of their time, produced in small numbers, or simply unlucky.

A New Haven Schoolhouse clock was saved from the trash bin; not particularly pretty, but still a reliable timekeeper

Final Thoughts

Antique clocks are storytellers — not just of time, but of survival as well. Each one we wind today represents dozens or hundreds that didn’t make it. That’s part of their magic. And as collectors, restorers, or admirers, it’s worth remembering: what we see is just the tip of the horological iceberg.

2

Reflections on a Year of Clock Collecting and Less Time Repairing

As we enter a new year it is time to look back on the adventures and milestones I’ve experienced in the world of antique and vintage clock collecting and repair in the past year. 2024 has been one of discovery, growth, and deepening appreciation for the art of horology.

Over the past year, I have been shifting the focus of my collection. While I have acquired clocks from various countries, my interest has increasingly centered on Canadian clocks and those with a Canadian connection. This focus is evident in my acquisitions of the following clocks this year.

Adding to the Collection

My collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks grew significantly this year with the addition of some standout pieces.

Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton Tall

The Dandy and Hamilton Tall models were particular highlights, each offering unique insights into the craftsmanship and history of the Pequegnat Clock Company.

Arthur Pequegnat Dandy

I also came across a rare find — a 30-hour Ogee clock by the Canada Clock Co., a true testament to Canadian clockmaking heritage. An interesting feature of this clock is the faux grain finish on the wood case, which was evidently a cost-saving measure by the company to make their prices competitive with American manufacturers at the time.

Canada Clock Co. Ogee

One of my most memorable acquisitions was an Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe clock (not pictured), purchased in 2018 from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia, for close to $200. This year, I added the Jewel model to my collection after spotting it on a high shelf at a local antique shop. Its price was surprisingly modest, coming in at less than a quarter the cost of the Simcoe making the find all the more satisfying. The addition of legs and side handles distinguishes it from the Simcoe.

Arthur Pequegnat Jewel

My most interesting acquisition was not a Canadian clock but a German-made Kienzle wall clock, which was given to me by a gentleman in Ontario (Canada).

Kienzle time and strike wall clock

The clock had been passed down from his grandfather, and the seller hoped to find someone who would truly appreciate it. He contacted me for advice and asked about its value. I offered some insights and mentioned that if he was unable to sell it, I would be happy to take it off his hands. Honestly, I never expected to hear back from him after that.

Several months later, he reached out to tell me that he would be gifting it to me. We arranged a hand-off in a small village in Quebec, and it has since become part of my collection. It is a handsome clock with a resonant two-tone strike that is one of the most “complete” clocks in my collection (for more on this clock go here).

Repairing and Restoring

In 2024, I spent less time repairing and servicing clock movements, instead focusing on my blog, researching clocks and clock companies and their histories, and maintaining my collection.

On the repair front, I tackled several challenging yet rewarding projects, including a Seth Thomas Type 89 time and strike and a HAC/HAU time and strike movement. These were standard servicing tasks that presented minimal issues.

Generally, my servicing philosophy is to avoid replacing original components as much as possible but I always test and ensure they meet the clock’s functional requirements. This year reinforced my belief that preserving original parts is vital to maintaining a clock’s authenticity.

HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) movement with plate removed

Among the repairs waiting their turn is the Danby model by Arthur Pequegnat which has been placed on the back burner due to other priorities. With three other movements to finish first, the servicing of those clocks plus the Danby will be projects for later in 2025.

Mauthe wall clock

Another project I’ll be tackling in 2025 is a family clock. This past year, I received my father-in-law’s clock for repair. It was passed down to my wife’s brother and has been out of service for over 25 years. I plan to return it fully serviced, and I hope that this stately Mauthe wall clock will take a prominent place in my brother-in-law’s home as a sentimental reminder of my wife’s father.

Sharing the Passion

This year celebrates seven years of blogging about clock collecting, repairs, and restoration. My blog has become a platform to share knowledge and stories, blending my love of writing, photography, and horology. Though I took a break for the holiday season, I look forward to returning this year with fresh content and inspiration.

One of the goals of this blog is to introduce antique and vintage clocks to younger generations and inspire an appreciation for these remarkable mechanical devices from the past. In today’s modern age of a throw-away culture, how many items can you think of that still function flawlessly after more than a century? It is a short list indeed!

A Special Milestone

In 2025, I will celebrate the remarkable milestone of reaching 1 million views, and I’ll be publishing a special article to mark the occasion. This achievement highlights the significant impact and reach of my content, demonstrating that my blog has resonated with a broad audience and built a dedicated following over time. Reaching this level of engagement is a testament to the value and quality of the information I share, making it an incredibly rewarding accomplishment as a creator.

A Broader Perspective

My collecting journey has always been intertwined with a sense of history and nostalgia. Yet, I’ve also faced the reality that interest in antique clocks is waning among younger generations. While my children may not share my passion, I find joy in preserving my clocks for future collectors or enthusiasts who might rediscover their charm. I hope that a younger generation will emerge and find value in collecting these old treasures.

My tastes and collecting habits are evolving, and I am increasingly focusing on Canadian-made clocks or those with a significant Canadian connection. This year, I may sell some of my more common clocks, which will reduce my collection to a more manageable size while still preserving my collection of 15 Canadian-made clocks.

Looking Ahead

As the New Year is upon us, I’m excited about the possibilities. My trip to the UK in 2024 provided opportunities to explore horological treasures, visit museums, and reconnect with my British heritage. Whether acquiring new clocks or deepening my understanding of their history, I’m eager to see where future journeys take me.

To all fellow enthusiasts and readers of my blog: thank you for your support and shared passion for these timeless pieces of history. Here’s to another year of celebrating the art and craft of clocks!

What is My Clock Worth? | 2025 update

This blog post was first published in 2016, and it’s now time to revisit and update it to reflect the changes in market conditions and prices since then. There are many reasons why clock prices are low and continue to decline, but at the risk of oversimplifying, I will say that the law of supply and demand applies to this area of collecting, as it does to many others. Thousands of clocks were produced in the past, and antique clocks have flooded online marketplaces in recent years.

Every clock owner wants to know the value of their clock, and every seller wants to know the right price to ask. This guide aims to help both buyers and sellers by addressing key factors involved in assessing the value of an antique or vintage clock.

The Unpredictable Clock Market

In today’s unpredictable clock market, determining a clock’s value can be a challenge. What you think your clock is worth might not align with expert opinions or what buyers are willing to pay. Values can shift from day to day and are influenced by many factors. The market can be unpredictable, and the value of a clock may fluctuate significantly over time.

For example, take a typical ad for a mid-1990s Howard Miller grandfather clock on Facebook Marketplace. The seller may have paid $3,000 at the time and think that an asking price of $1,500 is fair. However, if the clock fails to generate interest, it could ultimately sell for much less. I’ve seen these clocks go for as low as $400 and even less. I’ll explain why at the end of this article.

The personal value the owner places on the clock often differs from its market value, leading sellers to either accept a lower price than expected or remove the ad altogether.

Easy to find, difficult to realize more than a few dollars for one on a sale

Even expert appraisals are subjective, based on the condition and collectibility of the clock, and are subject to market shifts. For example, while my Ridgeway grandfather clock is in excellent condition and a standout piece in my home, it has little market value today.

Factors That Influence the Value of a Clock

Is the clock original? Sometimes it is difficult to tell if every part of the clock is original? But a completely original clock in pristine condition holds more value than one that has suffered the ravages of time, neglect, or poor restoration.

Original clocks attract more buyers. If a clock has undergone significant repairs or replacement parts, its value will decrease. Determining originality can be difficult unless an expert inspects the clock. Many “Vienna Regulator” clocks, for instance, have been assembled with mismatched parts or movements, affecting their authenticity and value.

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee
Many Ogee clocks have replacement movements, dials, hands, weights, tablets, and so on

What type or style of clock is it? While some clocks, like certain American mantel clocks, have little value due to many thousands of them having been produced, other styles such as 18th-century English bracket clocks or ornate French Cartel clocks can fetch high prices due to their rarity and historical significance. Tall-case clocks, despite their age, will often sell for much less than their original value.

Session Seth Thomas mantel clock
Mantel clocks were produced by the thousands and have little to no value

Does the clock have a label, trademark, or prominent name? Clocks with identifiable labels or trademarks tend to be more valuable. Prominent clockmakers’ such as E. Howard or Simon Willard, hold more value than similar, unmarked clocks. Replacement labels or unmarked movements lower the clock’s desirability.

This elegant 1830s banjo clock could have been crafted by a renowned clockmaker but is unmarked and holds minimal value.

Is it from the correct period, or is it a “knock-off” or reproduction? Many clocks, like the reissues of the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 in the 1970s, are less valuable than their original counterparts. Identifying subtle differences between originals and reproductions is key. Japanese and Chinese manufacturers produced “millions” of knock-off wall clocks that might fool the novice buyer.

Cheap and disposable Chinese-made clock, not worth repairing or buying

Does the clock have provenance? The history of a clock can add value. For instance, a clock with a documented history, owned by a famous person, for example, may command a higher price due to its historical significance. Intricately made tall case clocks with special provenance, made by noted clockmakers, for instance, will command high prices.

Ornate clocks such as this one are worth a small fortune

What is the age and condition? Much like antique cars, a clock’s age can contribute to its value, but condition plays a far more significant role. Just as a classic car with rust, missing components, or subpar restorations loses its appeal and worth, a clock with missing parts, poor repairs, or a poorly repainted dial will see its value diminish. Similarly, some clocks, despite their age, may lack desirability due to inferior craftsmanship or limited collector interest, much like certain vintage cars that fail to garner attention despite their years.

180-year-old woodworks clock; worth almost nothing, old is not gold!

Is the clock collectible? Rare or unique clocks are highly collectible. For instance, antique Canadian-made Arthur Pequegnat clocks are highly sought after in Canada, while the same clocks may have limited appeal outside specific regions.

Kienzle World Time clock
For some reason, these Series I Kienzle World Time clocks tend to fetch high prices

What is the mechanism type? Generally, three-train clocks (time, strike, and chime) are more complex and valued higher than two-train clocks (time and strike). Weight-driven clocks tend to be worth more than spring-driven ones. Conversely, some collectors tend to steer clear of complex clocks due to the challenges involved in repairing them.

People Don’t Want Clocks Anymore

The declining interest in antique and vintage clocks stems from several factors. Modern lifestyles prioritize convenience, and digital devices like smartphones and smart home systems have replaced traditional clocks as timekeeping tools. Generally, I find that younger generations do not share the same appreciation for historical craftsmanship, focusing instead on technology or experiences over physical heirlooms.

Modern homes, often compact condominiums with limited space, leave little room for accommodating a clock.

Antique clocks often require maintenance and specialized knowledge to repair, which can deter potential buyers.

Changing interior design trends also play a role, as many people prefer minimalist or contemporary aesthetics that do not accommodate antique and vintage clocks.

In the coming years, the prices of clocks will decline further as Baby Boomers—many of whom have been the primary custodians of antique and vintage clocks—enter retirement, downsize their homes, or pass away. This generational shift often leads to an influx of clocks entering the market as these individuals or their families divest of heirlooms and collectibles, items their own children do not want. With younger generations generally less interested in owning or maintaining such treasures, the supply will far outpace demand. This over-saturation, combined with changing tastes and priorities, will drive prices down even further, making it a buyer’s market for those who appreciate the art and history of antique clocks.

Do Your Research

Research is the key to determining value. Study online auction sites, local sales, reputable clock shops, and message boards to gauge prices. Be aware that clock prices are highly volatile and can change quickly based on supply and demand.

Before buying or selling, also research prices on eBay, reputable auction houses, and through local dealers. Finding clocks similar to yours can give you a price range to gauge your clock’s value—whether for personal interest or if you’re planning to sell.

Understand that clock prices fluctuate, and markets can be unpredictable. Always do your homework, ask questions, and provide honest descriptions if selling. Keep in mind that certain mass-produced clocks, many from China, Korea, and Japan, are not in high demand among collectors. This was true in 2016 and true today.

With the Internet’s impact, many clocks once thought to be rare have flooded the market, which affects prices. The law of supply and demand dictates that as supply increases and demand decreases, prices will drop. However, high-end, collectible clocks continue to retain their value.

Summary

Determining the value of an antique or vintage clock can be challenging, influenced by factors like originality, condition, age, and market demand. While personal sentiment often plays a role in perceived value, the reality of the unpredictable clock market requires thorough research and realistic expectations. Whether you’re buying or selling, understanding what makes a clock desirable and collectible will help you navigate this ever-changing landscape. With patience and knowledge, you can uncover hidden treasures or find the right buyer for your timepiece.

Is now a good time to purchase that special clock? With careful research, you may find bargains, but tread lightly, the clock market can be a minefield.

Clearing Up “Vintage” and “Antique” Confusion for Collectors

The Confusion Between the Terms Antique and Vintage

Among clock collectors and owners of older items, there’s considerable confusion surrounding the correct use of the terms “antique” and “vintage.” These terms are often used interchangeably, and more often than not, incorrectly. According to U.S. law, an “antique” refers to items that are over 100 years old.

Webster’s American dictionary describes an antique as “a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object that comes from an earlier period, typically at least a century ago”. Wikipedia supports this view, applying the term “antique” to objects 100 years or older. In short, most sources define “antique” as items that have crossed the 100-year mark.

Rural Nova Scotia antique shop
Much of what is found in an “antique store” are vintage and collectible items

What Does “Vintage” Mean?

The word “vintage,” according to eBay, applies to items that are less than 100 years old but more than 30 years old. However, in everyday conversation, the term often describes anything that is not new, appears worn, or simply looks old—sometimes without any understanding of its actual age or origin. This casual misuse has caused “vintage” to become as overused as “antique.”

Jauch

Auctions and Marketing Buzzwords

In online auctions, the word “vintage” has become more commonplace. Sellers who know little about the items they are offering frequently label them as “vintage” or “rare,” hoping to appeal to potential buyers. Items that were once considered rare—like the 30-hour Ogee clock—have become much more common with the rise of the internet, where thousands are now available for sale, causing prices to plummet.

Nowadays, a truly rare clock is often one that has significant provenance or is a one-of-a-kind piece.

The Misuse of “Collectible”

“Collectible” is another marketing term that, like “vintage,” has been overused. It suggests that the item is desirable and belongs in your collection, often inflating its perceived value. But just because something is called “collectible” doesn’t always mean it’s valuable.

Jewelry: A Special Category

When it comes to jewelry, anything over 20 years old is frequently classified as vintage. You might also come across terms like “near vintage” or “true vintage,” though there’s no clear definition for these phrases. These terms can be arbitrary, with sellers often assigning their own meaning to them.

Thoughts on Age and Value

Age alone does not guarantee value because the worth of an item is influenced by a combination of rarity, demand, condition, and historical significance. Many clocks that are simply “old” may lack these additional qualities. For instance, mass-produced clocks from past decades may have little value if they were made in abundance (again, the 30-hour Ogee clock) and do not have distinguishing features, craftsmanship, or historical connections.

Also, if an item has deteriorated beyond repair or lacks appeal to collectors, it may not hold much worth despite its age.

Value is often shaped by the significance people assign to it, whether due to its aesthetic, cultural, or nostalgic relevance. Without those added dimensions, something might just be old rather than genuinely valuable.

Case in Point: Dating a Particular Arthur Pequegnat Clock

In my collection, I have an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock that is undoubtedly old, but I cannot pinpoint its exact year of manufacture. The company produced the Canadian Time model between 1917 and 1941, but the movement and case design do not provide a definitive clue to narrow down its age any further.

While I can’t pinpoint the exact year, the clock was manufactured between 1917 and 1941. As we are now in 2024, even the latest possible date for its production (1941, the year of the company’s demise) puts the clock at 83 years old, edging closer to the 100-year threshold that defines an antique. If the clock were produced in the earlier part of that range, it would already be over 100 years old, meeting the criteria for being considered an antique.

Classifying the Canadian Time clock as an antique also acknowledges its historical and cultural value. The clock embodies the craftsmanship and design aesthetics of early 20th-century clocks, capturing a snapshot of that era’s manufacturing techniques and style. This designation also reflects its quality and the ongoing appeal it holds for collectors and historians alike.

If I were to sell it I would classify it as an antique.

Canadian time clock
Canadian time clock antique clock

What Truly Matters

Whether your clock is antique, vintage, or collectible, the most important thing is that you enjoy it. Ultimately, a clock’s true value lies in the stories it tells, the memories it holds, and the joy it brings to its owner—qualities that transcend any label or age.

Exploring a 30-hour Ogee clock from the Canada Clock Co. (Hamilton)

I recently had the opportunity to expand my collection with more Canadian-made clocks, including a 30-hour Ogee clock produced by the Canada Clock Co. at their Hamilton plant between 1880 and 1884.

Canadian clock companies have historically struggled to survive due to fierce competition from American manufacturers. Companies like Westclox in Peterborough survived largely due to their connections with U.S. parent companies, while smaller firms like Pequegnat persevered independently for as long as possible until the market and materials eventually declined.

Clockmaking in Whitby & Hamilton, Ontario

From 1872 to 1884, a group of Canadian clockmakers sought to compete with American companies by producing locally-made clocks designed for the Canadian market.

The Canada Clock Co. (Whitby, Ontario), the Hamilton Clock Co. (Hamilton, Ontario), and the Canada Clock Company (Hamilton, Ontario) faced significant challenges in the 19th century during a 12-year span as they sought to establish Canada’s presence in the clock-making industry.

The Canada Clock Co. was founded in Whitby, Ontario, in 1872, but its operations ceased after just four years, largely due to a catastrophic factory fire.

In 1876, key figures from the failed company, including manager John Collins, relocated to Hamilton to form the Hamilton Clock Co. Despite this renewed effort, the company folded after four years, halting production in 1880.

Later that year, another attempt was made to revive the industry with the creation of a new Canada Clock Co., reusing the old name and operating out of the former Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Unfortunately, success remained elusive, and the company declared bankruptcy in 1884, marking the end of a dozen turbulent years of clock production in the Canadian market.

Movements were made in Canada though they were essentially copies of American movements, most notably those manufactured by the Waterbury Clock Company. Case styles were also “borrowed” from Waterbury, Ansonia, and New Haven. Made in Canada, yes, original designs, no!

30-hour Ogee Clocks

Fortunately, many clocks from the three companies have survived to this day and occasionally they show up on online auction sites and other for-sale sites.

I have one other Ogee clock from this group of companies, one from the Hamilton Clock Company. It is exactly the same dimensions as a typical American Ogee of that time and mirrors the clock’s dimensions described in this article.

The brass movement of the Hamilton clock is a 30-hour time and strike and weight driven. Of particular interest is the use of an etched tablet that resembles a silk screen technique.

I have four other 30-hour Ogee clocks, two from Chauncey Jerome, a George H. Clark, and a Waterbury. All share the same dimensions as my two Canadian-made clocks.

Why were they so popular?

They were popular in the 19th century for a number of reasons. Most households did not need clocks with extended run times, and daily winding became a routine part of life, so the 30-hour duration was not seen as a disadvantage.

They were more affordable to produce and purchase, making them accessible to a broader audience. The weight-driven mechanism was simple, reliable, and required little maintenance. Unlike steel springs, which were expensive to manufacture in the early days, the weights were cheap to produce, further reducing costs.

Finally, the Ogee clock’s distinctive double-curved molding often made with exotic veneers was visually appealing and complemented the furniture styles of the period.

Canada Clock Company Ogee

My latest Ogee was made between 1880 and 1884 at the Canada Clock Co. factory in Hamilton, Ontario.

Auction photo

This clock has several intriguing features. First, it is the only one in my Ogee collection that includes an alarm function. Before the widespread availability of affordable alarm clocks or reliable pocket watches, many people relied on their household clock to wake them up in the morning. This was especially helpful in agrarian societies, where waking up early was essential for tending to livestock or starting farm work.

The brass dial sets the alarm

Second, the glass tablet showcases a unique cherub figure that differs from any designs I have encountered on similar clocks from the three companies. Unfortunately, the cherub has partially faded over time.

The grain is worn on the left side

Third, the clock features an imitation wood-grained finish that I have not encountered on other Ogee clocks. Genuine exotic or high-quality wood, such as mahogany or rosewood, was expensive. By using cheaper, locally available wood like pine or basswood and applying a faux wood grain finish, clockmakers could mimic the look of luxurious woods at a fraction of the cost.

Overall the imitation grain looks good

While most of the “grain” is still intact, some of it has worn away in the Ogee section on the right side. Although it requires cleaning, I must be careful to preserve the “grain.”

Fourth and final, it is one of the few Ogee clocks I have encountered that still has the dust blocks for the pulleys intact. There are two, one on each side located on the top of the case. These are frequently lost at some point in the clock’s life.

The label is mostly intact missing the bottom left-hand corner section. A clock’s label includes the name of the manufacturer. This helps identify where the clock was made and by whom, which is essential for authentication. This is particularly important when there is no maker’s stamp on the movement.

Servicing and Cleaning

This might turn into a winter project since I have several clocks waiting for servicing. However, I’d like to focus on the case first to preserve the faux grain. The plan is to give it a light cleaning and apply a coat or two of traditional shellac to help protect the finish.

I noticed that the hammer lever (strike-side) got stuck when I briefly ran the clock. It’s probably just a small adjustment, but I’ll need to disassemble the movement regardless. While I’m at it, I will also take care of any wear issues.

The homeliest clock in my collection is also one of my favorites

My collection boasts more than 90 clocks, with 51 on display throughout my home, 6 at our summer cottage, and 19 running non-stop. The majority of my 90 clocks are operational, although I periodically switch out some of them to maintain the 19 that run continuously.

One clock remains in its place in an upper hallway. One might assume that the clock is the priciest, rarest, most intricately designed, or possesses highly unique features. However, it’s quite the opposite—it is very plain, unremarkable in appearance, and a clock that some would consider unworthy of repair. Opinions may differ but I leave it up to you, the reader.

It is a circa 1895 Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock made by the Ansonia Brass and Copper Co. but is missing two essential features, the brass bezel for the clock dial and the lower access door (more on the door later). Otherwise, the clock came with most of its parts.

This clock has seemingly journeyed through life with its smile turned upside down. It’s a genuine barn discovery, and one can only speculate about the years it had spent scattered in pieces gathering dust and rust without knowing that it would be resurrected one day.

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock on a bench in pieces
I brought the clock home wondering what to do

After bringing the clock home, I found myself considering its future. At first, I debated whether to salvage the movement, the veneer, the finials, or the frame, or simply discard the clock altogether since its cost was negligible.

Then it dawned on me that despite missing some components, the clock could be revived. The idea of the clock languishing unused and neglected evoked feelings of sympathy, which I admit is a strange feeling for an inanimate object. In our throw-away world today perhaps the value in reviving and cherishing something that had been forgotten or overlooked, restoring its purpose and significance, led me to appreciate it even more.

Eight years ago, I was enthusiastic and eager to acquire clocks to work on them, and given my beginner status in movement servicing and case repair, I entertained the idea of using it as a learning platform for restoration. Repairing a broken clock always provides a valuable learning experience, allowing one to develop new skills in mechanics, craftsmanship, and problem-solving, which can be applied to future projects.

Let’s go through the steps I followed for this project.

The Movement

The time-only movement was encrusted with rust, presenting a significant challenge to restore it to working order. I spent considerable time scrubbing, cleaning, and meticulously sanding away the rust from the pivots and other steel parts.

The time only movement of an Ansonia wall clock
The movement was seized and coated in rust

While I initially considered replacing a severely rusted mainspring, upon closer inspection, I realized that much of the rust was superficial, leading me to reconsider the need for replacement.

Ansonia time-only movement on a test stand
On the test stand

Eventually, my efforts paid off, and I succeeded in getting the movement to run smoothly once again.

The case

Next, attention turned to the case. While a significant portion of the original label remained intact on the backboard, a section had broken off and was lost forever.

Ansonia backboard with partial label and a piece of backboard glued to an original piece of backboard
Ansonia backboard with partial label and glued piece

To remedy this, I found a suitable backboard piece from an old ogee clock cut a piece to fit, and glued it in place. The backboard is attached to the clock case in the photo below.

The clock came with no drop door
The clock came without an access door

The case was also missing its access door, and rather than leaving the clock without one, I built a door frame using pieces of softwood. I then applied salvaged veneer from another project, gluing it onto the frame. Shaping old veneer over doweling is a challenging task, but I did my utmost to accomplish it as well as I could.

Veneer glued to the softwood frame and Knob and hinges ready to be attached
Not a perfect veneer job but good practice nonetheless

The rest of the case repair involved bringing the pieces together with glue and then applying traditional shellac to enhance the intricate, fine-grained characteristics of the rosewood veneer. To complete the project the dial required some paint touchups and suitable hands were sourced from a clock parts supplier.

Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock hanging on a wall
Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock

While not the most aesthetically pleasing clock by any measure, it symbolizes the trials of restoring a seemingly hopeless clock, transforming it into a functional piece that serves its purpose reliably every day.

However, its greatest achievement lies in offering me a valuable learning platform that I can apply to future projects. Every time I pass by the clock It reminds me not only of the work I put into the clock but moreover, that not all is lost and that certain things are indeed worth preserving.

Three arguments for eliminating Daylight Savings Time

Here are three commonly cited reasons for eliminating the cursed Daylight Savings Time convention:

One of the main arguments against daylight saving time is its impact on human health. The abrupt shift in the clock can disrupt people’s sleep patterns, leading to sleep deprivation and increased stress. Studies have shown a rise in heart attacks, strokes, and even car accidents in the days following the time change. By eliminating DST, people would maintain a more consistent sleep schedule, promoting better overall health and well-being.

A made-in-Canada Pequegnat clock from the 1920s

Critics argue that the practice of changing clocks twice a year imposes economic costs on businesses and individuals. The process of adjusting various devices, systems, and schedules can be time-consuming and costly. Moreover, the disrupted sleep patterns of employees can lead to decreased productivity in the workplace. By eliminating DST, businesses would avoid these costs and potentially see a boost in productivity due to a more rested workforce.

Canadain made ogee style clock

One of the original reasons for implementing daylight saving time was to conserve energy by making better use of natural daylight during the longer days of summer. However, with advancements in technology and changes in energy consumption patterns, the energy-saving argument is now considered outdated. Modern studies have shown that the energy savings from DST are marginal, if any, and in some cases, it might even lead to increased energy usage due to higher air conditioning demands on hot evenings. Therefore, proponents of eliminating DST argue that the energy conservation rationale no longer holds, making it unnecessary to continue the practice.

30-hour shelf clock from the USA

These arguments, among others, have fueled ongoing debates about the relevance and effectiveness of daylight saving time, leading to discussions and policy changes in various regions.

But not in Nova Scotia, Canada. Prepare to set your clocks backward on November 5th at 2:am.

Clocks at our summer retreat

Taking a look at this Ansonia cotteg clockwith the dial off

At our seasonal cottage located in central Canada, we enjoy displaying a small selection of clocks, during the summer months.

The first clock, displayed for a number of years, was a Danial Dakota time and strike clock, which we had converted to a quartz movement. This clock, originating from the 1960s, incorporated Chinese design elements that were inspired by American clocks of that era. It required minimal maintenance and provided very good accuracy.

To operate, it relied on a “C” cell battery. This chiming clock offered both Westminster and Whittington chimes, with my wife and I favouring the Whittington chime.

Converted quartz Daniel Dakota

However, after a period of time we grew weary of the clock’s artificial electronic musical tone, and thus we decided to replace the Danial Dakota clock with a proper mechanical clock.

The Mauthe time and strike box clock we acquired as a replacement at the cottage features a raised maple leaf on its crown. This detail leads me to believe that it was likely sold under a Canadian brand, possibly marketed specifically for a department store or jewellery store. The distinctly Canadian touch with the maple leaf emblem, adds to its charm and appeal in our Canadian cottage setting.

Mauthe box clock
Mauthe box clock with maple leaf emblem on the crown

Next to the box clock is a captivating oak-cased gallery clock produced by the Empire Clock Co. of England. It was acquired through an auction in Nova Scotia and boasts a unique feature — a 10-inch dial instead of the more common 12-inch dial seen in similar gallery clocks.

Despite its resemblance to a fusee clock, it operates with a conventional spring-driven mechanism, which means its timekeeping performance is average at best.

Box clock and gallery clock

Adorning the wall of our sunroom is a familiar time-only schoolhouse clock that was recently gifted to me. It features a sizable 12-inch Roman Numeral dial and a pendulum visible through reverse-painted glass.

Although it has a few minor veneer imperfections that I plan to address later this year, I have already examined the movement and confirmed its excellent condition. After re-oiling it, I carefully placed the movement back into its case.

Schoolhouse clock

Displayed in our family room is a Hermle clock that harkens back to a nostalgic design known as the “wag-on-a-wall” style. This clock operates on a weight-driven mechanism and includes both timekeeping and striking functions. It emits a delightful bim-bam sound by striking on three rods.

The design aesthetic of this clock strongly resembles the clocks manufactured in the 1960s, which aligns with its likely production period. While it possesses a plain and unadorned appearance, it carries a certain charm and serves as a reminder of that era.

Wag on a wall

Among our collection of cottage clocks, we have a New Haven ogee-style clock that operates on a 30-hour time and strike mechanism. It is smaller than a conventional ogee clock and might be referred to as a mini ogee standing at just 18 inches high.

From afar, it presents an appealing appearance, capturing one’s attention. However, upon closer examination, it becomes apparent that the clock has undergone a removal of its veneer at some point in its history. The absence of the veneer adds a touch of character and reveals the clock’s journey through time, offering a glimpse into its past.

New Haven ogee clock

Finally, a well-worn 30-hour cottage Ansonia clock graces a bedroom dresser.

A cottage clock at the cottage

Despite its visible signs of use, this clock continues to perform well, a testament to the remarkable engineering employed by the clock’s manufacturers. Craftsmen at the time anticipated the rigours of wear and tear, and their foresight in creating such durable movements showcases their longevity.

Clocks at our summer cottage not only serve as functional timekeepers but also carry with them a unique charm and nostalgia.

Each clock tells its own story, displaying the marks of time and the craftsmanship of its makers. Whether it’s the captivating gallery clock with its distinctive dial or the familiar schoolhouse clock with its endearing imperfections, these clocks create a harmonious blend of functionality and aesthetics within the cottage.

As their hands tick away the hours, they remind us to slow down, appreciate the present moment, and savour the timeless tranquility of a summer retreat.

The Value of Saving Old Clock Parts: You never know when you may need that difficult to source part

Repurposing old antique clock parts can offer numerous benefits. For clock repair persons, these parts can serve as a convenient source for replacement components.

All clock repair persons consider this to be a best practice because it is sustainable, reduces waste, and conserves valuable resources.

Repurposing also provides an affordable means of obtaining rare and elusive parts for clock repair or restoration projects.

A case in point

Some years ago, I stumbled upon a seller who had four clocks for sale for just $20. It was a barn find in the true sense of the word.

I talked to the seller by phone and purchased them without knowing their condition. Upon inspection, I found that three of them had cases in poor condition but intact mechanical movements, making them well worth the purchase alone.

Although none of the clocks were particularly valuable, they were found in the same barn, all dusty and rusty, cast aside many years ago. In the eyes of the seller, the clocks were one step closer to the trash bin.

I considered resurrecting an Ansonia wall clock, which would have been a project for another day but there was a spring-driven time and strike steeple clock that was essentially intact so I decided to service it instead. The steeple clock movement was serviced and the case was refreshed. The results were quite satisfying.

It was a lucky find because the two mainsprings happened to be crafted from brass, which was utilized as a power source for clocks from roughly 1836 to 1840. Though rare the clock is not particularly valuable.

Elisha Manross steeple clock

While the Waterbury mantel clock was beyond repair and had to be discarded, there were still many parts from the Welch ogee clock that had the potential for future use. I removed the movement, pulleys, glass, hinges, iron nails, and door catch. The rosewood veneer was stripped from the case and set aside for a future project.

$20 for what some would consider trash

The salvaged veneer was used to create a new finial base for the Elisha Manross steeple clock pictured above and to cover the finial bases on the top crown of an 1850s Scottish tall case clock. In time the salvaged veneer was used for a number of other projects.

Scottish tall case clock
Scottish tall-case clock

Some clock parts are not difficult to source

There is actually a considerable assortment of new components available for antique and vintage clocks, which can be procured through numerous suppliers.

Examples are clock hands, pendulum bobs and leaders, feet, hinges, finials, bezels, hand nuts, case parts, and so on but by keeping old clock parts, clockmakers have access to replacement components that are no longer produced or readily available.

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Trash or treasure?

As time passed, I revisited the Ansonia wall clock. The Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock shown above was in a disassembled state and the heavily corroded movement might have been deemed irreparable by some.

Ansonia time-only movement as found

I could have salvaged the veneer and wooden components and saved the movement for potential future use, but I chose to rise to the challenge and reassemble the clock instead.

The crucial brass dial bezel was absent from the clock, and while I initially believed I could find a replacement at a later time (I never could), I opted to reinsert the movement into the refurbished case.

Though clearly missing a few cosmetic parts the clock has proven to be a reliable runner to this day.

Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock
Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock

There is value in saving old parts

Retaining old clocks for spare parts not only helps to maintain the legacy of clockmaking but also serves as a dependable resource for those elusive components that can be challenging to come by.

Beyond everything else, the parts tell a story about the manufacturing process, the materials used, and the craftsmanship involved in creating a clock. By saving and reusing these parts, clockmakers help to ensure that the knowledge and skills of traditional clockmaking are not lost.

Saving old clock parts is not only practical but also beneficial for preserving history, maintaining authenticity, and ensuring the longevity of antique timepieces.

Best clock acquisition of 2022

Well, it’s that time of the year. What is my best clock acquisition of the past year? You can decide for yourself and leave a comment but I will reveal my favorite at the end of the post.

As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks and every year I have managed to find a winner or two. 2022 was no exception.

In the early days of collecting, time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus with the goal of taking them apart and making them work, an important part of my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, clocks that have a special provenance, and growing my collection of Canadian-made clocks.

My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions may go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook/xxx auction house?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because it is a fair price but there are times when a little wheeling and dealing takes place prior to the sale.

In no particular order, here are my finds for 2022.

Fusee gallery clock

Gallery or dial clock, unknown maker

The clock is also called a dial clock in England which is where it was made. There are no markings anywhere on the clock save an obscure trademark that I have been unable to identify. It is a time-only fusee clock with a 12-inch dial, a very common size. It might have had a chain drive at the beginning of its life but it now has a cable. I have not serviced this clock because I don’t know enough about fusee movements, particularly the method of preloading the powerful mainspring.

E N Welch marine clock

Marine clock by E N Welch

This 30-hour spring wound clock with a hairspring lever escapement simply tells the time. It was made in the 1870s and perhaps earlier. It has been serviced, bushed, and cleaned, but my challenge at the moment is setting up the hairspping. It will work but not well.

Hamilton clock co ogee

Hamilton time and strike ogee clock, Canadian made

Acquired in the spring of 2022 this ogee clock was made in Hamilton, Ontario (Canada). The movement was serviced but the case challenged my veneering skills. It looks quite presentable now but was in poor condition when I bought it.

Jerome and Co. Rose Cottage clock

Rose Cottage clock by Jerome & Co.

Quite honestly I was going to throw the case out after having serviced the movement. It simply looks too far gone. However, I have accepted the challenge of bringing back this clock to its former glory. So far it is a work in progress.

Jauch calendar clock

Jauch 8-day calendar clock

From a distance, this clock looks good but a closer examination reveals a cheaply made time-only movement and an equally inexpensive pine case. It is clear that this German company was attempting to cash in on the antique American schoolhouse clock that was popular in the 1970s.

Wag on the wall

Wag on a wall

This has a well-made German movement, possibly by Mauthe or Hermle. It is a time-and-strike weight-driven clock and keeps very good time. Its only negative is that it has a cheap 1960s look about it but the only thing missing is a bottom middle finial.

Sessions Grand Assortment

Grand Assortment by Sessions

Perhaps the ugliest gingerbread clock ever made. The photo is the exact clock I worked on two years ago since the clock is apart at the moment and I have stripped down the case (a last resort).

Sessions Mission clock

Sessions Mission clock, 8-day time and strike

I like this clock not only because it is a 10$ thrift store find but it has very nicely styled mission clock and it works very well, keeping decent time for a spring-driven clock.

Empire gallery clock

English gallery clock with 10-inch dial

I was hoping this was a fusee clock when I bid on it on an online auction in the spring of 2022 but it is a spring-driven 8-day clock with a fairly robust movement that was intended for commercial use, a store, an office environment perhaps.

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

I have a couple of Danel Pratt woodworks clock. Unfortunately, this one is missing its topper. Servicing woodworks movements takes special care and attention and I may tackle this clock in the spring.

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

I seem to gravitate toward 30-hour clocks. This is a time-and-strike clock and is in decent condition requiring only a few touchups.

My favorite?

Well, it has to be the time-only fusee which is probably why I subconsciously placed it first on the list. It well built industrial-strength clock that was designed to last for years. It looks great on any wall, is very quiet, and quite accurate which is what fusee movements are known for.

Hamilton Clock Co. ogee – a dull and tired case needs help

Should antique clock cases be refinished or rejuvenated? It can be a judgement call. I am all for patina and preserving an old clock case but there are times when certain amount of intervention is practical from an aesthetics and resale point of view.

There is a certain philosophical argument among collectors who believe on the one hand that any intervention is sacrilegious while others feel that some amount of intervention may be necessary to preserve an antique clock.

Auction photo

I won this Hamilton Clock Company 30-hour ogee clock at auction in the spring of 2022 and only now have had a chance to work on it.

I was not specifically looking for a 30-hour ogee as I have 6 already (and who needs another 30-hour clock) but as this clock was made in Hamilton Ontario, Canada it is special to me as adding Canadian clocks is a prime goal as a collector.

Auction photo showing the lower acid etched tablet

A brief history

The company was established in 1876, after the failure of the Canada Clock Company (version 1) in Whitby, Ontario. Using a new factory building and the original production machinery the second company, the Hamilton Clock Co. was formed by three principles, James Simpson, George Lee, and J. F. Collins.

The Hamilton Clock Company made a valiant effort to provide clocks for the Canadian market, in competition with the huge U.S. clock factories in Connecticut that already dominated the market. 

Ogee clocks were manufactured at Hamilton, and these were identical in construction to those that had been made at Whitby with veneered pine cases. After four years the company went bankrupt but was shortly resurrected as the Canada Clock Company (version 2), again using the same Hamilton production facilities. Clock production ended in the mid-1880s and it was not until a new Canadian-owned clock company emerged in 1904 (the Pequegnat Clock Co.) in Berlin, Ontario that Canadian-made clocks resumed production.

It is tempting to group the three companies into one, but the design focus of each company separated them from each other, the early company focused on 30-hour movements and simply styled mantel clocks while 8-day wall clocks and more ornate mantel clocks were a feature of the later company.

The case

Yes, it is dulled and tired and it has had a rough life. These clocks are handed down from one owner to the next and in the process they undergo changes. Some of the changes are reversible and some are not. Luckily this clock can be revived and brought back to life.

There are veneer losses, particularly on the two upper corners and the trim strip along the right side. The bottom strip is missing completely. So the challenge is to replace missing veneer with new and old stock but the end result is not always perfect.

Let’s see what I can do with the case.

A woodworks movement by Daniel Pratt Jr. and it actually works

Won at auction this spring is a Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse ogee with splat although this one is missing the splat, the decorative piece on top of the case.

According to the label it was made in or after 1843.

It was also missing the suspension spring and pendulum rod and the wire with regulating screw for the pendulum bob.

Daniel Pratt Jr reverse ogee clock

There are a few other things that are not quite right. The green banding that frames the upper and lower glass looks a little strange and likely added later and the card stock which would have replaced either a mirror or reverse painted tablet looks out of place. The picture of a young soldier holding a sabre and an American flag looks quite old.

But it actually works and works well.

It has a time and strike 30-hour woodworks movement. Wood-works movements were introduced in American at the end of the 18th century and the high point of woodworks movement production was prior to the depression of 1837. During the depression most clock production was shut down and small companies began to consolidate into larger ones.

Wood-works movement

With the invention of the 30-hour brass movement by Noble Jerome, clock making began to boom again in 1838. Inexpensive woodworks movements continued to be made but by the mid 1840s the woodworks movement production had begun to phase out.

Count wheel on left, escape wheel in the middle

This movement works

The weight cord on the right side looks like it would let go at any time but what the heck, let’s see if this thing works. The green one for the strike side looks sturdy. I will restring the clock later.

I removed the verge and determined there was no power getting to the escape wheel. I felt underneath and although the weight had been wound to the top of the case the cord was binding on the main wheel. It took a little encouragement to bring the weight further down but the adjustment did the trick. I then fashioned a new suspension rod/spring from my supplies along with a pendulum wire, gave the pendulum a gentle push and success!

About 3 hours later as the weight on the time side was descending I noticed the cable had broken at some point and a past owner had simple tied the two ends together. I believe the knot was causing the power issue.

I had already tested the strike side and it was working perfectly.

I have one other Daniel Pratt Jr. clock in much better condition but the movement will not run for more than a few minutes. This one has a splat.

So, one Pratt with a not-so-good case and a working movement and the other with a stunning case but a non-working movement. Should I do a swap?

Daniel Pratt Jr with woodworks movement

I have never disassembled a woodworks movement in my years of clock repair and I doubt that many clock repairers have much experience with one. It is one of the few movement types I have zero experience with but I may have to bite the bullet some day because this clock will not run forever.

Clocks won at auction – at a fair price

I never actually went to this auction but participated online. It is not quite the same as the rush of bidding in a live auction hall but exciting in its own way.

This particular auction had quite a number of clocks but I would say that most were in rough or what I would call “hobby-ready” condition.

I was looking at one particular clock but three more grabbed my attention. A total of four clocks, two shelf clocks, and two wall clocks.

My budget was $300CDN and I stuck to it. I set the maximum I would pay for each item and placed all bids within the last minute of the auction and walked away from the computer. For two of the clocks, I was prepared to let them go if bidding got too high but at the end of the day I won all four. With fees and taxes, the final invoice was $379 (a little over $300US and 240BP).

Bidding online is always a gamble. What the photos reveal does not always tell you what you are getting and I have been surprised more than once. I have a number of other photos from the auction but these are a good representation.

Hamilton Clock Co.

30-hour Ogee clock

Clock number one is a 30-hour weight-driven ogee made by the Hamilton Clock Co. based in Hamilton, Ontario in the late 19th century. This was a clock I was anxious to have since I am in the process of building a small collection of Canadian-made clocks.

I have one other clock from The Hamilton Clock Co., a 30-hour time and strike steeple clock, and one from the Canada Clock Co., a 30-hour time and strike cottage clock.

I am grouping the two companies together because one essentially grew from the other and made clocks within the same factory and with the same machinery.

Those two have etched lower tablets as on this new acquisition.

Canada Clock Co. Hamilton Cottage Extra
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock

The Hamilton Clock Co was formed in 1876 and went out of business in 1880, a very short run for a clock company, unfortunately. The exact year of manufacture is unknown but I may know more when I receive the clock.

This clock looks like every 30-hour ogee ever made and that was the original intent, a familiar clock style that appeals to the masses. The dimensions of this Canadian-made ogee are very similar to American-made ogees and the movements, though made in Canada, are essentially indistinguishable (minor differences aside) from 30-hour ogee time and strike movements made by a number of American manufacturers of the time.

The clock appears to be intact, has its own weights and the lower etched glass tablet seems to be in fine shape judging from the auction photos but the case will need a thorough cleaning and some veneer work.

Daniel Pratt Jr

Clock number two is a Daniel Pratt Jr which I’d like to call a reverse ogee with a splat top but the splat top is missing.

I have just one Daniel Pratt Jr clock in my collection and it has an early woodworks movement. The older Pratt clock shows what the splat should look like.

Daniel Pratt Jr with woodworks movement
Reverse ogee and “splat“

According to the label on which the date 1843 is inscribed, one can assume that this is the date of manufacture, approximately.

In any event, it may have a woodworks movement. There were still a few companies who continued with the cost-effective woodworks movement but by that time the rolled brass plate movements were becoming more common.

The loss of the splat top certainly makes the clock less desirable but it was one of the cheaper clocks in this grouping and, who knows, I might have a splat made, we’ll see.

Label, weights and pendulum bob

The green banding on the upper and lower glass sections looks somewhat suspicious and could have been added later. This clock also comes with weights and what looks to be an authentic-looking pendulum bob.

The lower tablet might just be a card-stock image, again, likely not original but old nonetheless. The dial has some losses but what there is of the case looks good.

Unknown gallery clock

Clock number three is an unknown gallery clock. I have no idea of the maker and cannot even guess. I took a chance and I hope the gamble pays off.

Gallery clock

The auction information describes it as 14 inches in diameter so I am assuming the clock face is about 10 inches or so. The hands look very interesting, the case looks well-made (mahogany?) and the clock definitely has a mid to late 1800s English look.

The centrally located winding arbour tells me that it has a time-only mechanical movement.

Back of the clock

The dial looks to have been redone but I am more curious about the movement inside.

A shot of the movement from the bottom

I am not sure what I am seeing in the photo above. Certainly, a homemade door catch on the left and a large gear (perhaps a mainspring barrel), and cylinder-shaped pendulum bob. Fusee movement? I doubt it. I think it has a conventional spring-driven time-only movement but I will know in a few days.

Six-inch gallery or ships style clock

The last is a smaller gallery, ships, or marine-style clock which is spring-driven with a balance wheel. The speed adjsutment lever below the 12 is the give-away.

It is 8 1/2 inches in diameter (6-inch dial), key wound time-only 30-hour clock with a seconds bit. I cannot even guess who the maker is but could be a Waterbury, E N Welch, or some other American manufacturer.

The chunky oak case needs some attention but with a good cleaning and a coat or two of shellac, it should show nicely. Apparently, it is in working order.

Okay, so, two clock makers I am familiar with and two unknowns. I wonder what surprises await me when I open up the two unknown clocks.

In a day or so we shall see what we get. We are driving down to the auction house in the next couple of days but we will make something of our 3+ hour journey and enjoy the sites, have lunch in Annapolis Royal (Nova Scotia) and do some antiquing along the way.

Clock auctions – Ron’s rules for bidding

HAC mantel clock

The psychology of auctions, now that would be a fascinating study. How bidders behave, the frenzy of bidding wars often called “auction fever“, and the emotions wrapped into the pursuit of that one item everybody seems to want would be very enlightening.

Ingraham 30 hour cottage clock, under $30 at auction

Auctions are fantastic places to find great deals. I have found many clocks at auction for exceptional prices and have few regrets.

This post will explore how to use auction rules to the best advantage based on my experience and my observations. Presented are Ron’s tips that I have found effective. The focus is on online auction houses. eBay is another world but I suppose some of my advice may apply.

The photos on this page are auction wins over the past two years.

The classic auction

Although there are other types, the classic type of auction is where a seller sets the price, plus a time limit and bidders are encouraged to bid on the item. The highest bidder wins. This type of auction remains popular because of the familiarity and intuitive nature of the process.

Auctions can be live or online but online auctions are becoming much more common.

Using the “watch list” if offered

Many auction sites have a “watch list” which is a cool method of bookmarking the items you may (or may not) bid on. I generally peruse the auction offerings and click the watch button for those that interest me and in so doing generate a “list” of ten to twenty items for potential bids.

I hold off on bidding until I can determine which ones interest me the most, how much I am prepared to pay, and the total I have budgeted for the auction. I attempt to work within my budget but may make some adjustments during the auction.

The watch list also allows for a sober second thought before or during any auction. Put another way, I thought I wanted the item before but now I don’t.

Why you should not bid early

Auction sites want people to bid early to show everyone there is interest in the item. By revealing interest in the item others might be tempted to bid and this will drive up the bids. This benefits the auction house which makes more money on any item that sells higher. Novice auction goers are easily caught in this trap. Try not to get caught up bidding too high and too early in an auction even if it is something you really want. Fight the urge!

Establishing a limit

I consider each item carefully based on the photos and descriptions provided, determine what I would pay for the item in optimal condition, and factor in wear and tear or any parts missing in order to set an upper limit for my bid.

A tactic that works surprisingly well is to determine a maximum price on an item when the auction opens, make that bid and leave the auction.

Scottish tall case clock
Scottish tall case clock, $275 plus fees and taxes

Let’s say I bid $60, then leave the auction site. The next day or after the auction has ended, I will know if I won within my limit, or lost. If monitoring the auction a green win button will light on what you have won otherwise auction houses send out invoices after the auction has ended detailing items you have won. Winning is very satisfying, of course, but losing is not such a terrible thing, there is plenty of fish in the sea.

Others participating in the auction might also have set the same limit for themselves on a particular item. If I’m willing to spend $60, am I willing to spend $5 more (assuming a bid increment is $5). If I bid just higher than my limit assuming my limit is the same as others, I may still win the item without ignoring the budget I have set for the auction.

Without determining your limit, it’s too easy to get into a bidding war that might go something like this, “I was willing to spend $75, and I was outbid at $80. I could go $5 more and bid $85 but if I lose it at $85, $10 is only a tiny bit more”, and so on.

Stay within the upper limit and do not get caught up in a last-second feeding frenzy.

Auction “estimates”

This is just another method of forcing the bid higher. Ignore auction estimates unless there is a “reserve” on the item. A reserve price is a minimum price that a seller would be willing to accept from a buyer. In an auction, the seller is not typically required to disclose the reserve price to potential buyers. If the reserve price is not met, the seller is not required to sell the item, even to the highest bidder.

Proxy bidding

Most auction sites allow proxy bidding, meaning they will keep your bid as low as possible so you can win, but not exceed your maximum limit.

It works this way. I decide on a $60 upper limit and the auction’s bid increments are $5. At the start someone bids $5, I have set my bid at $60 but currently have the winning bid at $10. If someone else bids $25, my bid automatically goes to $30. They come back at $35, and my bid automatically goes to $40. If the auction ends at that point, I won the item for $40. If someone else came back before the auction ended with a $65 bid, then they win, but I do not exceed my limit. I then walk away from that item and focus on the next.

Rare items

Rare items that are desirable can be expensive. Humans tend to overvalue things they think are rare. However, thinking an item is rare might influence you to bid higher. The item may, in fact, be quite common. Do your research beforehand, or even during the auction.

For example, ogee-style clocks that some people would consider to be quite rare are, in fact, very common as thousands were produced by many American manufacturers over a span of 70 odd years.

Chauncey Jerome ogee clock, $35 at auction

Not so hidden fees and costs

There are additional fees and taxes as you would expect. Auction fees called “buyer’s Premium” is set by the auction house. The buyer’s premium is a percentage that is an additional charge on the hammer piece of the lot which is paid by the winner. Some auction houses will call it a service fee but think of it as a commission.

Buyers’ premiums may be higher for online auctions than live auctions and the percentage varies from auction house to auction house, typically between 15% and 20%. Some auction houses may even have an additional service fee above the buyer’s premium. Add taxes to determine the final price. A winning bid of $60 with a 15% buyer’s premium (our local auction houses) and sales taxes of 15% (Nova Scotia) pushes the final price to $79.35. It is the final price assuming you can jump into your car and bring the item home, otherwise, there are shipping costs. Suddenly your $60 win costs $200.

As a general rule, I do not request antique clocks to be shipped as the risk of breakage is too high.

The psychology of ownership

Here’s how it works. While you hold the winning bid, you begin to feel a sense of ownership, and the longer one holds the bid the stronger the sense of ownership. When outbid, you may think someone is trying to steal something from you and you want it back but now you are caught up in bid frenzy. To get it back you bid higher. However, even if you win the item you still lose because you have likely overpaid for it. Buyer’s remorse is the sense of regret after having paid too much.

Related is the Endowment Effect, meaning people will assign more value to an item that they own purely because they own it. This type of behaviour is typically triggered with items that have a strong emotional or symbolic significance to the individual such as something they had as a child or other nostalgic item.

A pocketful of money

Let’s say I plan on spending $500 at an online auction including buyer’s premium, tax, and shipping, so, I am limiting my actual bidding to approximately $300. Perhaps I am looking at only two items in the auction. For one I’m willing to go to $100, and for the other, I’m willing to bid up to $200 for a total of $300. I win the first item (for which I was willing to spend $100) for $25. I can now decide whether I should spend $200 on the second item, or if I’m now willing to go up to $275.

Determining a budget limit introduces an element of self-control and allows one to refocus attention on other auction offerings. It is also helpful when you are not watching the auction when it ends.

This is always an individual choice based on how much you feel the items are worth and what your research is telling you.

Ansonia Canada parlour clock, part of a $30 lot

Clock auction houses

An auction that consists only of antique clocks is a tough one to navigate and to win an item at a decent price. These auctions attract all manner of collectors and you might be bidding against a very determined collector who will want an item at any cost.

I find the prices in antique clock auctions to be generally quite high and unless you are looking for that special clock it is best to avoid them unless money is no object. I have much better success with estate auctions that do not generally attract dedicated clock collectors so, for the most part, you are bidding against people who have poor knowledge of antique and vintage clocks.

I suppose there are plenty of other strategies but these are the ones that have worked for me.

Dating an Antique or Vintage Clock – Part II

George H Clark 30-hour ogee clock

Honestly, an entire book could be devoted to the topic of dating clocks. Some time ago, I published an article titled “How to Date an Antique or Vintage Clock – Part I,” in which I used specific examples from my own collection.

I’d like to explore this topic further, and this post will discuss additional methods for dating an antique or vintage mechanical clock. While there is no one definitive method for dating an antique or vintage clock, there are often clear clues in some cases and more subtle hints in others that can help pinpoint when a clock was made.

Occasionally, the exact month and year are displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances, the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.

After 1896 foreign clocks (Europe, England) were mandated to have the country of origin on the case, usually on the dial. Any clock made after that date will have the country of origin.

Duration of manufacture

A bit of research into the history of a clockmaker can help you narrow down the timeframe for dating your clock. For instance, the E.N. Welch Clock Company, an American manufacturer, produced clocks until 1903, when it was acquired by the Sessions Clock Company, which continued making clocks until 1970. The E.N. Welch Clock Company made clocks for a 50-year period until its acquisition by Sessions in 1903.

By 1903 German-based clock manufacturer Junghans was the largest clock maker in the world and continued in its quest to bring more companies into the fold. Gustav Becker, founded in the 1860s, and Hamburg American Clock Company, founded in 1883 were absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. Although those companies were folded into Junghans in 1926 the Gustav Becker name lived on for another 9 years.

Gustav Becker regulator C.1907, Braunau factory

Clocks with Steel vs Brass plates vs Woodworks movements

Smaller shelf clocks with 1-day (30-hour) wooden movements were produced in fairly large quantities from around 1810 to 1845, after which most clockmakers changed over to brass movements. Wood dials were also popular during this period.

Daniel Pratt woodworks movement with dial removed C.1832-38

By 1860 iron weights were being replaced by springs as the power source, and smaller clocks, many of them 8-day, were becoming increasingly popular. Early American spring-driven clocks used brass springs (late 1830s) until steel became cost-effective.

This information is important for dating a clock because it highlights key transitions in clockmaking technology and design, which can help pinpoint the era in which a clock was made. For example, the use of wooden movements and wood dials can indicate a clock was produced between 1810 and 1845. The shift from iron weights to springs by 1860 helps us understand why spring-driven clocks became popular, which is crucial for narrowing the period of manufacture. Additionally, the switch from brass springs to steel in the early 1840s can provide a more precise date range for early spring-driven clocks.

Understanding these technological changes allows you to make more informed judgments about a clock’s age based on its features.

Brass mainsprings for Manross clock
Brass mainsprings from a Manross steeple clock C.1837

During periods when brass was in short supply such as the World Wars (WWI and WWII), makers often made steel plate movements with brass bushing inserts. However, some companies such as Arthur Pequegnat used either steel plates or brass-plated steel plates throughout their operating years (1902 to 1941).

Steel plates on a Pequegnat time and strike clock

Other clock companies switched to steel as a cost-cutting measure when brass prices were high, not necessarily during wartime.

Screws and nails, chime rods, coiled gongs

In older clocks, nails, and screws were made of iron and hand-forged, with screw heads being slotted. Hand-forged nails can be found in clock cases dating from the earliest examples up to the mid-19th century, after which machined screws and nails started to replace them.

An ogee clock, like this example made by George H. Clark in 1865, was constructed with hand-forged nails.

George H Clark 30-hour Ogee shelf clock

Robertson and Phillips head screws were introduced in the first part of the twentieth century. Since the Robertson head was invented in 1906 and Phillips screw heads only began to be widely used in the 1930s screws of these types found in older antique clocks are later additions.

Since these screw types were introduced in the early 20th century, their use in a clock that dates from an earlier period suggests that the screws were likely replaced or added during a later restoration or repair. Recognizing these screws helps refine the clock’s dating and can provide insight into its history and any modifications it may have undergone.

The first rod gong, a single striking rod, dates back to patent designation DRGM 108469, granted to Johann Obergfell on December 23rd, 1899. The introduction of the rod gong, as opposed to earlier bell or strike systems, represents a key development in the evolution of mechanical clocks, especially in terms of sound quality and the technology used.

Understanding when this innovation occurred can help date a clock more accurately, particularly those with rod gongs, as it indicates they were likely made after 1899. Rod gongs are typically made from a copper or nickel alloy and are press-fitted into a block.

Coiled gong - a replacement?
Thick coiled gong

There are two types of coils: the thick coils, which spiral only a few times and produce a deep, rich tone, and the thinner coils, which spiral many times and often have a higher-pitched, tin-like sound. Thick coils were used well before the mid-1800s. These coils are typically mounted onto a fitting, which is then attached to an iron block. Smaller, thicker coils became more common towards the end of the 19th century.

On the American front, thin wire coils were very common. Some examples had the coil mounted to a dome-shaped base which was said to improve the tone considerately.

Commemorative plaques

Commemorative plaques which display dates are often a good indicator of the age of a clock. However, the clock may have been on a seller’s shelf for years before the date on the plaque. This nevertheless places the clock within a certain range of dates. This photo shows a plaque on a HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) time and strike shelf clock.

HAC shelf clock with the date 1926 on a plaque

Type of escapement

Recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, Brocot types are found in older antique clocks while, hairspring, floating balance, lever type escapements are found in newer vintage (less than 100 years old) clocks.

For example, floating balance movements began appearing in mechanical clocks in the early 1950s. The floating balance will tolerate being out of level, unlike pendulum clocks which must be on a level surface, an attractive marketing feature.

This is important because the type of escapement mechanism used in a clock can provide key insights into its age and technological development. Older clocks with recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, or Brocot escapements reflect the horological practices of earlier periods, while newer clocks featuring hairspring, floating balance, or lever type escapements indicate a more modern design, typically found in clocks less than 70 years old.

For example, the introduction of the floating balance in the 1950s was a signifcant advance because it allows for clocks that are less sensitive to being off-level, a feature that made them more convenient for consumers. Recognizing these mechanisms helps in accurately dating a clock and understanding the technological shifts over time.

Sspriral spring for floating balance escapement
floating balance escapement C. 1950

Style of case

The style of the case, such as ogee, box clock, steeple, cottage, or gingerbread, can help date the clock to a specific period.

The style of a clock case can offer valuable clues about its age, as different case styles were popular during specific periods in history. Here’s a breakdown of some common clock case styles and their associated timeframes:

  1. Ogee Clocks: These clocks, named for the distinctive curved, “S”-shaped design of their cases, were popular from the early 19th century, especially between 1825 and 1850 but continued to be made into the 1880s. They typically have a simple, symmetrical shape, often with a painted or paper dial, and were mostly made with wooden movements in the early years.
  2. Box Clocks: This style features a simple, rectangular or square case, often with a hinged door or glass front. Box clocks were common in the early to mid-19th century (1920s to 1940s), with their plain, functional design making them relatively inexpensive to produce.
  3. Steeple Clocks: Steeple clocks are characterized by their pointed, “steeple” shape at the top of the case. This design became particularly popular from the 1840s through the 1870s. Steeple clocks were typically more decorative and were often used in homes and churches, with some having more ornate carvings or decorative elements.
  4. Cottage Clocks: Cottage clocks, with their simple and rustic designs, emerged in the mid-19th century, around the 1840s and 1850s. Often smaller in size, these inexpensive clocks were popular in rural homes. They are sometimes characterized by a more casual, handcrafted appearance, with wooden cases and floral or geometric motifs.
  5. Gingerbread Clocks: This style, which features intricate carvings and decorative elements like scalloped edges, ornate moldings, and small, detailed pieces, gained popularity in the mid- to late-19th century (around 1860 to 1880). Gingerbread clocks are often associated with the Victorian era and were typically mass-produced.

The case style is a strong indicator of the clock’s approximate age because clockmakers and manufacturers often adapted their designs to reflect contemporary tastes. By identifying the specific features of a clock’s case—such as the materials used, shape, and any distinctive decorative elements—you can narrow down the period in which it was made, which can then aid in dating the clock more precisely.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
E Ingraham Huron C.1878

Knowing the period when a case was made provides a reliable indicator of the clock’s age. Although there are earlier patent dates stamped on the movement of this E. Ingraham Huron time and strike 8-day shelf clock, this style of case was made for only 2 years, 1878 to 1880.

Date stamps on movements or cases & searchable databases

Some makers stamp date their movements or display the date elsewhere on the clock case. The Gilbert Clock Company often date-stamped their movements. Sessions put dates on the door labels.

Some makers such as Junghans stamp a date code on their movements. For example, B19 stamped on the back plate of a Junghans movement refers to a movement made in the latter half of 1919.

Serial numbers stamped on movements can be compared to a database to determine the exact year the clock was made. The Ridgeway clock company used 4-digit codes. For example, serial number 4981 refers to a Ridgeway clock made in 1981.

Gustav Becker clocks were made in both Silesia and Braunau factories, both of which produced clocks but each had a unique serial number convention. The serial number on a Gustav Becker clock will give the exact year of production assuming you know where it was made, Silesia or Braunau.

An online databases such as ClockHistory.com provides invaluable information on companies and models made by them, the years the clock company was in business, and how long the company was in operation.

Searchable databases like Mikrolisk, the horological trademark index help date a clock by comparing a trademark. Some companies revise or restyle their trademarks over the years allowing one to date a clock within a certain period.

At Antique-horology.org keywords or text can be used to search trademarks and identify years they were used.

Scottish tall case clock
Scottish tall case clock C.1848

The date 1848 is attributed to the clock above. I arrived at this date because it was made by William McLachlan of Newton Stewart, Scotland. According to an English clock database, Mr. McLachlan was a clock assembler and ran a clock-making business in Newton Stewart until his death in 1848. While the clock could have been assembled as early as 10 years prior, 1848 serves as a conservative estimate.

Other miscellaneous indicators

Plywood began to be used in clock cases starting in 1905. One of the clocks in my collection, a Junghans bracket clock, made around 1913, features a plywood back access door.

Seth Thomas made clocks in marble cases for a short time, from 1887 to about 1895. They also made clocks in iron cases finished in black enamel, from 1892 to about 1895.

Adamantine clocks were most popular through to 1915. Seth Thomas is best known for their “Adamantine” black mantel clocks, which were made starting in 1882. Adamantine is a celluloid veneer, glued to the wood case. Adamantine veneer was made in black and white, and in coloured patterns such as wood grain, onyx, and marble.

Seth Thomas Adamantine clock circa 1911

Final thoughts

My goal for this two-part article was to provide a broad, generalized overview. Each of the sub-topics mentioned above could be explored in much greater detail, and I hope this serves as a useful reference for some of you. I welcome any corrections to the dates, and if there’s anything I’ve missed or other information that should have been included, please feel free to leave a comment.

As I’ve outlined, there are many ways to date a clock—some methods are quite obvious, while others are more subtle and require a bit of research to pinpoint.

For some collectors and clock fans, dating a clock is crucial, as it adds historical context and value to the piece. For others, however, it may not be as important, especially if the clock serves primarily as a decorative item rather than a functional or collectible piece. In such cases, the aesthetic appeal might take precedence over its exact age.

Tick Talk Tuesday #38 – Swigart replacement dial

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

GB writes:

Yesterday I pick up another strange clock and the dial has a monogram/mark: EJS, after searching it turns out to stand for E. J. Swigart but that company, from what I read, didn’t make clocks, just replacement parts so am I to assume the clock, images below, has a replacement dial/face? Does it diminish its esthetic value? I was told it is 1840 ogee. Miraculously enough it works!

Ogee clock
Swigart replacement dial

My reply:

You are correct. E. J. Swigart made parts for jewelers and watchmakers but they are best known for their replacement dials. Their logo is often confused with the Sessions Clock Co. or Seth Thomas. Swigart are respected for their dials and their commitment to making them as original as possible. They operated into the 1970s (the trademark was registered in 1896). I don’t believe it would diminish the value of your clock, after all, the replacement dial might be over 100 years old!

GB writes back;

Splendid! Thank you again. Your help and advice are priceless. 

Dating an antique or vintage clock – Part I

Ingraham Grecian

There is no single method of dating an antique or vintage clock but there are some strong clues in some cases and subtle inferences in others that help determine when a clock was manufactured. Occasionally, the exact month and year is displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.

This is by no means an exhaustive reference but my thoughts on how to date a clock. I will therefore rely on various examples in my collection.

This is the first part of a two-part article. In the second part, I will explore additional clues for determining a clock’s age.

Elisha Manross steeple clock

This Elisha Manross clock is an attractive steeple design. Steeple clocks were made in the thousands from the early 1830s to the end of the century. A steeple clock is a type of mantel or shelf clock characterized by its pointed, spire-like top, which resembles the steeple of a church. These clocks were particularly popular in the mid-19th century and were produced by various American and Canadian clockmakers, including Seth Thomas, Chauncey Jerome, and others.

Elisha Manross steeple clock

Elisha Manross was an important pioneer of the Connecticut clock and lived from 1792 to 1856 and he was the maker of the steeple clock pictured above. A distinctive feature of this particular clock is brass mainsprings.

Brass mainsprings for Manross clock
Brass mainsprings, Manross clock

From 1836 to 1850 brass mainsprings were used in clocks because steel was considered very expensive. It was not until 1847 that the tempered steel mainspring developed for everyday clocks was introduced and with it, the brass mainspring faded into clock history.

This provides an important clue when dating this clock, that it was made before 1850. The second clue is the label located inside the case. Elihu Gere, the printer was in business at 10 State Street Hartford Conn. The printer’s name and address are located on the bottom of the label And this tells us that the printer was at this location until 1847. Armed with these pieces of information one can date the clock from about 1845 to 1847.

Daniel Pratt Jr reverse ogee columns with splat top

Next, is a Daniel Pratt Jr. shelf clock. A distinctive feature of this clock is that it has a woodworks movement. A woodworks movement is a type of clock mechanism/movement made predominantly from wood rather than metal. These movements were commonly produced in the early 19th century, particularly in the United States, during a time when wood was more affordable and readily available than brass or steel. Woodworks movements were very common before 1840 and were considered the first mass-produced clocks.

Daniel Pratt Jr.

Daniel Pratt (1797-1871), Jr., clock-maker, banker, town clerk, and legislator, lived in the town of Reading, Massachusetts, in the 1800s. Pratt did not contribute much to clock-making and was widely regarded as an entrepreneur rather than an innovator.

This particular Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse Ogee shelf clock was made in Reading, Massachusetts, c. 1832-38, within that six-year period. It has a splat-top mahogany case with half reverse Ogee moldings flanking the door, painted wooden Roman numeral dial, mirrored lower tablet, and wood dial face. The mirrored tablet was considered a luxury at the time.

Woodworks movement

McLachlan tall case clock

It is a classic Scottish design from the mid-1800s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24.

McLachlan Scottish Clock

The well-preserved sheet iron white dial has painted spandrels, each one depicting an ewe with a lamb and a painted arch top showing a man resting on a rock with two working horses directly behind.

English Bell strike movement

The robust movement is made in the Guild style and movements contained in these clocks are commonly called “English bell strikes” with anchor escapements.

McLachlan was not a clock-maker in the true sense of the word but rather an assembler, bringing the dial, clock case, and movement together to assemble into a tall case clock for a particular customer. Signatures on a clock dial may or may not refer to someone other than the clock-maker. 19th-century retailers and distributors often put their own names on clocks in an attempt to ‘brand’ their products. The actual movement may have been made by someone else likely in Birmingham England. 19th-century clock cases were almost always made separately from the movement and are rarely signed.

The name Wm McLachlan, of Newton and Stewart, is inscribed on the dial. In his book, Clock-makers & Watchmakers of Scotland 1453 to 1900 David Whyte lists McLachlan, William, clock & watchmaker in Newton-Stewart, Wigtownshire as a business advertised for sale on 25 May 1852. McLachlan either retired or passed away before the sale date. Newton-Stewart is a former burgh town in the historical county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland.

This clock was therefore made between 1848 and 1852. The painted dial which originated in or around 1810, the style of the hands, the style of spandrels, the shape of the arched dial, and the shape of the case are other clues that it was made within that period.

Sessions Beveled #2 tambour style mantel clock

This Sessions tambour style clock represents a very popular style of clock sold in the 1920s and 1930s in the USA.

Sessions Beveled #2

It is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a toned mahogany finish with faux inlay below the dial face. Faux inlay was an affordable way to enhance a clock’s decorative details and a common feature of clocks of this type in the 1920s.

Label on the inside of the access door

Sometimes, the exact date of manufacture can be pinpointed down to the year and month, making dating straightforward. In this instance, the clock was produced in September 1927.

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock

Dating a clock can sometimes be challenging, and unfortunately, this particular clock is difficult to date with precision.

Arthur Pequegnat kichen clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock

In Canada, the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company produced clocks from 1903 to 1941. Before the First World War, the company operated in Berlin, Canada. During the war, the city’s name was changed to Kitchener in 1917 due to anti-German sentiment at the time. This small piece of information helps to approximate the date of a Pequegnat clock.

Below the six on the dial is the inscription “The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Berlin, Canada,” but neither the case nor the movement provides any clues to narrow the date beyond the period between 1904 and 1917.

I hope the examples I’ve shared provide some helpful insights into dating a clock. This is the first part of a two-part article; in the second part, I will discuss additional clues for determining a clock’s age.

A custom test stand for weight driven ogee style clocks

A few weeks back I published an article on clock testing stands. While a single clock stand would be ideal for all movement testing purposes there are so many different types and styles of movements that one size does not fit all.

The one stand I was missing was for testing weight-driven ogee style clocks whether they be 30-hour or 8-day or select clocks that would require a pulley system for the weights.

Aside from an easy setup and quick mounting of a movement for testing it allows me to inspect the movement from all sides

Tall case clock stand
Tall case clock stand

Rather than construct a stand-alone ogee test stand I decided to make it a companion to my tall-case clock stand. Mounting atop the tall-case stand means that it is at the optimum height for making adjustments.

I also wanted something I could easily remove if I needed the long-case stand for testing and it is simple to set up.

Salvaging case parts from an old ogee simplifies the construction of the stand. It can be done without ogee case parts but it means devising a pulley system and making rails with slots for the movement seat board.

The ogee clock was purchased along with three others for $20 but the ogee clock case was in such poor condition it could not be restored.

A movement came with the case which I use for spare parts. The veneer has been harvested and used for other projects. The remaining wood pieces are stored and ready for use in future projects.

The tall-case stand is 48 inches high and will accommodate more than one movement although I generally work on one movement at a time. It is square-shaped and very stable though when used to test grandfather clock movements it is anchored to a wall to eliminate or reduce sympathetic vibration.

The tall-case stand is braced on all sides and the framing around the 4 legs adds additional stability and strength.

Clock stand two rails off
Taking the rails out

The rails, made of yellow oak, a hardwood, chosen for their strength.

The two pieces I am holding are the oak rails that are designed to fit into the top of the stand and are fully adjustable width-wise depending on the size of the movement.

Close-up of the top

The ogee stand is 10 inches high and has stabilizing rails under each side that rest on the oak rails. There is a cross brace in the front and back to give it strength and lateral stability. The top from an old ogee case is ideal because the pulleys are in the correct position for the weights.

The rails easily take the weight of a 30-hour movement which is about 7 1/2 lbs total. Will it take the 13 lb+ weight of an 8-day ogee? Yes. There is no need to screw or nail the ogee stand to the oak rails as the combined weight of the movement plus weights are enough to anchor the stand in place.

Test stand rest on the two rails

I painted the stand to match the tall-case stand.

I chose Espresso latex paint because it does a great job of hiding my carpentry errors.

Testing the time side of a Waterbury ogee movement

Aside from an easy setup and quick mounting of a movement for testing purposes it allows me to inspect the movement from all sides.

It works as expected and now I can use the stand instead of the case for testing.

I know there is another ogee clock in my future!

Best clock acquisition of 2021

The time has come to determine the best clock acquisition of the past year. As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks over the years, and despite the seemingly never-ending pandemic, I have scored a few in 2021 though the past year has been leaner than most.

In the early days of collecting, simple time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus so that I could take them apart, repair them if necessary, and generally advance my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. For the past three years, I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, or clocks that have a special provenance that even includes the odd mantel clock.

My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions often go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because I feel it is a fair price and other times there is some wheeling and dealing prior to firming the sale.

At the end of the post, you will have an opportunity to vote on what you think is the best in 2021.

In no particular order, here are my finds for 2021.

Sawin banjo clock

This is a garage sale find and even though it was purchased in the spring of 2021 it is still a work in progress. The clock is over 180 years old and in pretty decent shape.

Sawin weight driven banjo clock

It is a weight-driven banjo but it has no markings. An educated guess is that it was made by John Sawin of Boston or one of his associates on or close to 1840. I have completed minor veneer work on the case and have replaced the broken glass dial. The movement has been serviced but I am now looking at clock parts supply sources to replace a badly bent suspension spring. I want to avoid paying an outrageous price for the complete assembly; suspension spring, leader and spike.

Gilbert mantel or Shawville clock

I call this the Shawville clock because it spent most of its life in Shawville, Quebec (Canada).

It was a family clock for many years and following a death in the family, all possessions were either sold off or given away, a very common practice today. It has a time-and-strike Gilbert movement in a mahogany tinted case that has led a kind life since its manufacture in 1917. It is simple and unadorned and that’s what I love about it. I serviced the movement, cleaned the case, replaced a broken hour hand and now it is on prominent display in our home.

Gilbert time and strike

New Haven tall-case clock

An interesting $90 acquisition is this New Haven tall-case clock with a secret. Wow, a tall-case clock for $90, you say. Despite the look of a weight-driven clock, it is, in fact, a spring-driven clock. I was unaware of this until I walked through the door of the seller. I bought it anyway.

New Haven tall case clock

The weight cans are empty shells and they are simply there for show. The movement is quite large, eight-day, of course, and looks to be very robust. Despite my best efforts to determine if it was originally weight driven it had to have been spring-driven from the start, in other words, no evidence of a seat board or any additional holes for mounting the movement to the case. This appears to be an early “kit clock”, i.e. movement, dial face, hands, pendulum, “weights”, and ladder chains bought from the New Haven Clock Company and fitted to a pre-made case.

The case was very dark from years of accumulated dirt and grime and vigorous scrubbing revealed a wonderful red oak finish.

Waterbury Wren mantel clock

Ansonia Syria

Another clock with a secret is actually a disappointment. I found it in an antique store and it reminded me of an Ansonia Syria I had worked on for a friend last year, so, I was drawn to it.

Waterbury Wren mantel clock

It has a Waterbury case and what I thought was a Waterbury movement, but no.

It is missing the brass bezel and glass which is easily replaced but what is most disappointing is the mismatched movement, a Seth Thomas time and strike, which obviously replaced the original movement presumably because it was worn out. The movement is well-made and runs well but at the end of the day, the clock is destined to be sold.

Schatz Schatz carriage clock

This is a Schatz carriage clock made by August Schatz and Sohne of Germany. Thousands of these were sold and given as gifts through the 60s and 70s. It has an interesting lower visible escapement and an exposed movement.

Schatz carriage clock

Although it is working and keeping time it runs for about 4 days and stops. A cleaning is called for (on my list). It has a wind-up key in the back much like a typical alarm clock. It says West Germany on the dial and made, I would say, in the 1970s. August Schatz and Sohne closed in 1985, a victim of slow sales and a shift to quartz clocks by other makers.

Chauncey Jerome ogee clock

This clock is original in many ways, with a nearly flawless case made of mahogany veneer over softwood, moon hands, a wood dial, and a movement that matches when the case was made. Even the pendulum bob looks original. It was missing the suspension spring and rod and a wooden movement block, all easily sourced.

Chauncey Jerome 30-hour ogee clock

It cleaned up nicely and was a good candidate for a fresh coat of traditionally prepared shellac. I have three other 30-hour ogee clocks and this one is the most original of the bunch.

E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock

This is a very nice shelf clock from an estate auction. It is an Ingraham Grecian clock with an alarm feature. If you have ever used the alarm on an old antique clock your first impulse is to throw it through a window, it is so loud and it goes on and on till the spring winds down.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian 8-day shelf clock

It came with incorrect hands and I had the darnedest time sourcing them but searching various suppliers in Canada and the US paid off. The case has been cleaned and the movement serviced including the infuriating alarm.

Fleet Time Co. mantel clock

An inexpensive clock that had huge potential but left me frustrated. Fleet Time Co. of Montreal had a short life of 4 years before the Second World war when they lost their source of German movements.

Fleet Time case
Fleet Time clock

I stripped the case and re-glued some sections, applied a walnut stain and I was very pleased with the final result. I serviced the movement, wound the time side completely, and BAM, kerplunk! the sound of a mainspring exploding. Sometimes you can get away with just replacing a mainspring and other times, like this, it took out the barrel teeth and a leaf pinon on the second wheel. I placed it in a plastic bag and it is now on a shelf in the basement awaiting donor parts.

Hamburg American Clock Company. (HAC) mantel clock

This German-made mantel clock has an interesting 14-day movement, an early production type from HAC. HAC is short for the Hamburg American Clock Company, a German company which had a long history up to the time it was absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. This clock was made in or around 1895.

HAC mantel clock
HAC 14-day mantel clock

It was another estate sale find. The case is nondescript and nothing special, but quite elegant.

So…..

Tell me what you think and I will reveal what I believe is my best acquisition this year in the next post. Let’s see if we agree.

Traditional shellac improves the appearance of an ogee clock case

This Chauncey Jerome 30-hour or one-day clock from about 1844-1845 is the example that I am using to illustrate the advantages of using traditional shellac as a finish coat.

The mahogany veneer is in very good condition and it is evident that the clock was not subject to the abuse one would expect of a 180-year-old clock. There is a small dent in the upper left corner but it is hardly noticeable. There are a few scratches here and there consistent with age but all in all the veneer is in great shape.

As found, a dull and lifeless case

First, is cleaning the case. My go-to cleaner for clock cases is Murphy’s Soap. It does a great job of lifting years of grime and dirt from the veneer. The tradeoff is that once you remove the dirt it reveals shellac loss. It was my intention to apply a coat of shellac in the first place so, when I got through layers of dirt and discovered some of the finish gone, I was not too concerned.

Since there are no veneer repairs, refreshing the case was pretty easy. I am not a big believer in maintaining the patina of a clock. if pt is dirty it needs to be cleaned!

I use traditional shellac consisting of flakes mixed with shellac lacquer. I use a wide artist’s brush to apply the shellac and it always produces a superior finish.

One coat of amber shellac

I have decided to leave the lower tablet as-is and as for the dial, I haven’t yet decided on whether or not to address the faded chapter ring though I am also leaning towards leaving it as-is.

The movement has been serviced, the clock is running and striking as it should and I think it looks great after the case refresh.

Chauncey Jerome 30-hour movement – two unusual issues during servicing

I was not really looking for an ogee clock to add to my collection. But there it was sitting in a lonely corner of an antique shop calling me, “buy me”; and I did.

It is probably the oldest one in my collection of 4 other ogee clocks. It was made in or about 1845. Now, being old does not necessarily make it valuable. In fact, millions of these clocks were produced and many found their way to online auction sites in recent years contributing to a huge drop in value. You can find them online for a little more than I paid for mine but they are pretty cheap nonetheless. This one was $54.

As found

The case label located on the backboard inside the clock case was printed by John Benham in 1845. Comparing the movement in this case with one found on a popular Jerome database site tells me that it is a type 1.311 Jerome movement. Jerome movements were typically marked though some, like this one, were unmarked which is not unusual.

So, the case and the movement are near enough in time to tell me that the movement is very likely original to the case. That is always a good sign as many ogee cases had worn movements replaced over the years. In some cases, there was little intertest in matching the maker of the case to the movement especially if a customer’s only wish is to have a working clock and since the movements were interchangeable it made it that much easier. Many of these clocks are over 180 years old and one can expect some subtle and not-so-subtle changes over the years.

While very attractive and running well this clock (below), a “marriage”, is an EN Welch case with a Waterbury movement. When considering the purchase of an ogee clock, if it is important to you, check that the movement and case are from the same maker though that is not an absolute guarantee they started their lives together.

EN Welch and Waterbury marriage

What is original and what has been replaced?

Typically parts that have been lost/damaged or replaced over the years include the verge, suspension spring/leader, the pendulum bob, the weights, the hands, and case parts like pulley dust caps. In some cases, the lower tablets have been removed altogether because of breakage or severe paint loss, replaced by a clear glass panel, a mirror, a photograph, or a picture (often from a discarded calendar).

The leader and suspension spring are missing. The verge appears to be a replacement, the weights look original as do the hands and pendulum bob. There is a missing top movement block that secures the movement to the backboard and that is about it.

I am reserving judgment on the frosted glass tablet; it may or may not be original. It would be pretty exciting if it were a Fenn design but I doubt it. William Fenn was one of the more prolific tablet-makers of the mid-19th century. The dabs of red paint are certainly added later.

The clock dial, likely original, is signed C. Jerome below the twelve o’clock.

Assessment of the movement

This is a typical 30-hour or one-day time and strike movement.

I found some wear and I was expecting some past repairs. There is a repair date of 1863 on the inside of the access door but I can’t make out what was done at that time.

There are two bushings installed on the front plate, the second wheel, and the hour gear. On the back, there are four replacement bushings, evidence that it has had acceptable servicing. One seldom finds replacement bushings on an ogee clock. Most movements I have come across have punch marks around the bushing holes, a common practice by past clock repairers to close elongated holes.

Type 1.311 Jerome movement

Three of the replacement bushings will have to be redone and new bushings are required for the back-plate time side main wheel and the strike side back-plate main wheel for a total of five.

The pressure washer for the time side main wheel is completely worn out. Had I not separated the wheel and ratchet for cleaning I would not have discovered the problem but it tells me that it could fail at some future point.

To the right is the pressure washer with centre worn through

I have a donor New Haven 30-hour movement that will provide the replacement washer.

The lantern pinions have some wear but are quite acceptable. One trundle is loose on the escape wheel. Rather than take it apart and re-seat the troublesome trundle, a dab of Loctite Red should fix it in place.

These are two unusual issues but not insurmountable.

A lantern pinion with a loose trundle

Because the movement was so oily and dirty I pre-cleaned the parts prior to putting them in my ultrasonic. This helps extend the life of the solution. I used a medium bristle nylon brush to clean the stubborn areas.

After cleaning and drying the parts, the pivots are polished and I was pleased to find almost no wear on any of them.

Next is the bushing work. My only concern was pushing out what remained of the bushing material in the replacement bushings after drilling. I went slowly and did not apply pressure on the cutter, letting it do its work. As I suspected the Bergeon bushings are marginally smaller but each bushing fit snugly. Although I planned on five bushings, I installed six, adding a bushing for the second wheel on the time side front plate which was a little more worn than I thought. I left the escape wheel as-is, the wear is acceptable.

Next is restringing the weights, re-assembly, and testing. All went as expected.

I have worked on a few of these movements over the years but unique issues always seem to come up. Nonetheless, they are fun to work on.

Following the movement servicing, I will move on to refreshing the case.

Circa 1845 Chauncey Jerome Ogee Clock

An ogee clock is so-called because it is a 19th century U.S. shelf clock with a distinctive S-curve (convex above and concave below) molding.

30-hour ogee clocks were very popular from the early 1840s to as late as the 1890s, a good run for a distinctive style of clock. Before the days of the Internet, these clocks fetched hundreds of dollars at auctions houses and antique stores. Along came eBay and prospective buyers quickly learned that large numbers of these clocks were produced in their day and the supply of clocks flooded the net and prices dropped accordingly. I have 5 ogee clocks among my collection of over 100 clocks and have never paid more than $60 for any of them.

Of course, there are exceptions to the rule. The distinctive case has housed movements other than the 30-hour time and strike commonly found and some are quite desirable. Fusee, single weight 8-day time-only, calendar models, minis, Gesso fronts, 8-day time and strike clocks, and a few unusual ones have good value.

As found

30-hour clocks are worth collecting and if you a new to clock repair, they are a great clock to begin your journey.

This is a Chauncey Jerome 30-hour or one-day clock from about 1844-1845 and based on my research, the movement is from the same period. So, an excellent chance that the case and movement started life together. The pendulum bob looks very old and hard to say if original as pendulums often go missing during a clock’s life. But I’m not sure a modern pendulum bob would have similar detail.

Original (?) bob cleaned with Brasso

The dial is in good condition with attractive Gesso spandrels although the Jerome name under the twelve is barely readable and the chapter ring has faded. The moon hands also look original and the clock came with the correct weights. The mahogany veneer, while very dirty is almost flawless.

The name Jerome is just readable

Not original is the strike bell as the clock would have had a coil gong. The suspension spring and leader are missing. A top wooden block that attaches the movement to the case is also missing and the label, printed by John Benham, though readable, has some losses. The suspension spring and leader can be easily sourced, the block fashioned from old stock and I have a spare Jerome style coiled gong in my parts bin.

30-hour unmarked Jerome movement

The tablet design did not look original at first glance but after removing a piece of cardboard (first photo) and Christmas wrapping paper behind the glass I discovered a frosted tablet with thistles and flowers. The red paint might have been added and it is very possible that it was not painted originally.

Original tablet?

The plan is to service the movement, source missing parts, and refresh the case.

I am not a strong believer in maintaining the original patina which one reader opined is just another word for dirt. The case will be cleaned with Murphy’s Soap and a coat of shellac will be applied.

Original materials and techniques will be used when working on the case. This includes the use of traditional shellac (flakes mixed with shellac lacquer), and fasteners like old slot head screws, old wood, and square nails. The replacement coil gong is very similar to other Jeromes I have seen and will come out of a donor ogee case. There are a few stray pieces of label at the bottom of the case that will be glued back in place.

John Benham label is in rough shape

There is not a lot of demand for ogee clocks today as reflected in their asking price. Perhaps the 30-hour ones are considered a hassle for some as they must be wound once per day, nevertheless, I find them very appealing.

Coming soon will be an article on servicing the movement and later on, refreshing the case.

Sperry and Shaw 4 column clock back on the bench

The turned 4 columns of the New York style Sperry and Shaw clock drew my attention because it is so unlike many of the 30-hour shelf clocks of the time.

This clock was made between 1844 and 1851 when Henry Sperry and George Shaw were in the clock business together.

Sperry and Shaw label

The label, which is in superb condition, and affixed to the backboard says 10 Courtlandt Street, the company headquarters at the time. Sperry and Shaw were not clock-makers but business partners and were regarded as distributors and assemblers or as Carl Drepperd in “American Clocks and Clockmakers” put it, “apparently clock racketeers” as they sold clocks with fake labels. Who actually made the 4 column clocks? I ‘ll leave that to the horological history sleuths.

Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock
Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock

The company sourced cases and movements, affixed their own stamp on the movement and placed their labels sometimes overpasteing other makers, inside the case, clearly an unethical practice.

Weight channels on either side of movement

The movement is Jerome-like and stamped Sperry and Shaw, New Jersey. The plates are thinner than a Jerome, evidently a cost cutting measure. The hands are not original, nor is the dial though both appear to be period correct. The lower tablet contains an engraved copy of the Bay of Quinte (Ontario), there to replace the original reverse painted glass.

An interesting feature is the narrow brick-shaped wafer weights (4 3/4 inches X 1 inch) that fit neatly into channels on the left and right with little room to spare. The strike side weight is only slightly lighter than the time side.

Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement
Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement

Service history

In January, 2019 the movement was disassembled and cleaned. All the parts were in good order.

The movement had been serviced perhaps more than once since there were punch marks around almost every pivot hole. Curiously there is only one replacement bushing on the escape wheel bridge, a later repair. Three or four pivots holes were slightly enlarged but not so much that they had to be done immediately. So, no bushing work at that time. I did not make any notes at the time regarding bushing wear but I suspect most of it is on the strike side.

The movement was re-assembled. The dial and hands were re-attached along with new braided nylon weight cords. After several days of testing the clock was running well.

May 2021

I have not been running this clock much in the past several months but I decided to wind both sides to see if everything was in order. As much as I love 30-hour clocks they are a hassle to keep running as they must be wound every day. Many years ago owners took this in stride as 8 day clocks were costlier.

The time side is now stopping after 5 minutes. At first I thought it might be a wear issue until I discovered the weight cord had, for whatever reason, slipped off the pully on the top of the case. It must have slipped off when I moved the clock recently. I repositioned the cable and ran the time side for a few hours just to be sure.

The other problem is the strike side. Lately the strike side has been running erratically. It either strikes the hour or runs continuously until the weight hits the bottom of the case.

The strike side needs an adjustment but there may be other issues. I won’t know until I take the movement apart. Once I have it apart I will address the wear issues I noted in 2019.

Disassembly

The movement was taken out of its case. The four retaining pins were removed and top plate taken off. After 3 years the movement is clean but the clock oil in the pivot holes is black.

I inspected the movement for wear. The lantern pinions have some wear but no more than I saw in 2019 and I have seen far worse in other 30-hour movements. As mentioned there had been a lot of punches around the pivot holes and from my inspection some bushings are now required. The ratchets and clicks look good and the gear teeth are in fine shape.

Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement tested in the case
Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement tested in the case

Bushing work

Three bushings are required; the time side second wheel front plate and the strike-side mainwheel and second wheel back plate. There is certainly wear on other pivot holes but not enough to justify more bushing work at this time. However, if this was a customer clock I likely would have bushed every pivot hole.

I did not like how bent and twisted the movement plates are. I am not sure whether this is the result of poor quality brass or the rough manipulation of the plates by a past repairer as they went about punching most of the pivot holes. I straightened the worst section so that I could have sufficient end shake for one gear but left the remainder of the plates as-is.

Reassembly and testing

These movements are relatively easy to reassemble. While everything went smoothly the strike side is still giving me grief and is no better than when I began.

However this time it is a simple adjustment issue. There is no need to take the movement out of the case to make the changes. I could see that the count and drop levers were not synchronized. The drop lever should be deep in the cam slot at the same time the count lever is in one of the deep slots of the count wheel. I slid the count wheel over to one side and repositioned it. The paddle should also be radial to the count wheel. I had to bent the paddle slightly to ensure that it pointed directly at the wheel hub.

These were subtle changes but made the difference between a working and non-working strike side. After 4 days of testing the dial and hands were reinstalled and the clock placed back on its shelf.

Sperry and Shaw 30 hour clock

It bears repeating that if you are just beginning your journey into clock repair, the 30-hour ogee, because of the large gears, the overall simplicity and the absence of mainsprings make this a great place to start. I love working on them.

Chauncey Jerome 30-hour ogee has stopped – the trouble with trundles

My Chauncey Jerome 30-hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clock has stopped for no obvious reason. Let’s see if we can get it going again.

Chauncey Jerome 30 hoir Ogee clock
Chauncey Jerome 30-hour Ogee clock

But first, no-one can deny that Chauncey Jerome had made a historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works and was said to be “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made a fortune selling his clocks, and his business grew quickly his company ultimately failed in 1856.

After researching Mike Baileys excellent site on Jerome clocks I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy, 1855. The patent 30-hour brass movement is the number 1.314 which is likely in its original case.

C Jerome 30 hour movement testingin the case
C Jerome 30 hour movement testing in the case

The only time I serviced the movement was in February 2018. It was dirty as expected and it appeared that no work had been done for quite some time. It was well worn. At that time 8 bushings were installed, 4 in the front and 4 on the backplate. Most of the wear was on the strike side and lower in the trains.

C Jerome movement right out of the case in 2018

It ran very well for 3 years and now (May 2021) it has stopped.

Preliminary checks

I performed the usual checks prior to taking the movement out of its case. I inspected the time-side cable for kinks and that it was not binding. A binding cable will definitely stop a clock. It was fine.

I checked the crutch loop clearance and found nothing seriously amiss. It should have run. It did not.

While it was running I noticed that it was drifting in an out of beat and it ran no longer than a minute or so before stopping. This indicates a number of issues; a bent escape wheel teeth, damage/wear to its lantern pinion, a bent escape wheel arbour or an enlarged pivot hole. I suspect the last one is the culprit.

The strike side is fine and it is functioning as it should, but without the time side running correctly the clock is just an ornament.

Next, taking it out of the case

I checked it over and determined that the movement required two new bushings, one for the escape wheel bridge and the other for the hour wheel in the motion works. I did not have a multi-level bridge tool when I serviced this clock the first time three years ago so, it came in very handy. The hour wheel pivot hole looked fine then but now there is enough wear that it justifies being done. I checked the escape wheel arbour and it was straight.

Ingraham Grecian
Multi level bridge tool

With those two wear issues addressed I put the movement back together for testing and assumed that the clock would run. Unfortunately the clock stopped after less than a minute. Something else was amiss.

The trouble with trundles

I adjusted the beat but still nothing. I noted where the second wheel, time side, was stopping as it would stop about every eighth of a turn. Since the second wheel gear teeth are in excellent condition, it could only be one thing, worn trundles in the escape wheel lantern pinion that prevent the second wheel from meshing correctly with escape wheel.

Lantern pinion on escape wheel

As you can see in the above photo the trundles are in terrible condition and there is little doubt that this is what stopped the clock. Wear such as this cannot be ignored. Without a repair the clock will not run.

Trundles are often replaced by drilling out the shroud end where the trundles are inserted, taking the worn trundles out, replacing them with new ones made from pivot wire and staking the holes to ensure they stay in place. On this escape wheel the cap must be removed to access the trundles. This is common on ogee movements such as this and it means a different approach for the repair.

End cap for lantern pinion

I secured my crow’s foot to my bench vice, inserted the top cap of the lantern pinion into the V part of the foot and gently tapped on the pivot end to release the cap. It released easily. The trundles should have literally fallen out but two of the 6 were firmly in place and had to be cut and drilled out. Not fun.

crows foot

I have a good assortment of pivot wire, selected a .95mm wire for the trundles and cut each one to length with a Dremel cutting disk.

I used a hollow staking tool to push the cap back in place and the trundles into their respective holes but the cap was loose. This is when Loctite is your best friend. Using a toothpick I dabbed a small amount onto each end of the trundles, secured the trundles in place and waited 24 hours for the Loctite to cure.

The next day for testing purposes I left out the strike side levers and wheels.

On the test stand the movement ran a couple of 30-hour cycles and the issue has now been addressed. The remaining gears and levers were assembled into the movement and the movement was placed into the case for a final test of both the time and strike side.

It should run reliably for years to come.

From time to time a repairer will have to deal with worn trundles.

New trundles made from pivot wire

If a clock stops and there is a gear meshing issue, then it is time to replace the trundles but if they are a little worn and the clock runs well, I tend to leave them as-is knowing that at some future date if the clock stops it is one of many issues I will address.

I have mentioned this before but if you are just beginning your journey into clock repair, the 30-hour ogee, because of the large gears, the overall simplicity and the absence of mainsprings make this a great place to start.

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