There’s something deeply satisfying about winding a mechanical clock—feeling the tension build in the spring or watching the weights slowly rise as you turn the key. That simple ritual connects you to generations past, when timekeeping was both a science and a daily habit. Among the many types of mechanical clocks, the 8-day clock holds a special place. Wound just once a week, it blends convenience with craftsmanship, offering the perfect balance of tradition and practicality.
An 8-day clock is a mechanical clock that requires winding only once every seven days. While that may sound simple, there’s more to it than just the winding schedule.
Double-sided winding key
Types of Mechanical Clocks
Mechanical clocks vary in their run times. A 30-hour clock—often called a 1-day clock—needs daily winding. Many ogee weight-driven and alarm clocks fall into this category. Others, especially those with Chinese or Korean movements, can run up to 31 days. You’ll also find clocks rated for 14, 15, or even 60 days, and anniversary clocks, known as 400-day clocks, which run for more than a year on a single wind. The number of days simply refers to how long the clock will run before needing to be rewound.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton 15-day clock
Why Regular Winding Matters
If you don’t wind a clock near the end of its run time, it will stop when the mainspring or weight no longer provides power. A serviced 8-day spring-driven clock might run a day or two beyond its rated cycle, but eventually, it will stop once the power is depleted.
Junghans 14-day time and strike mantel clock
When an 8-day clock consistently fails to run its full cycle, it’s a clear sign that servicing is needed. Dirt, worn bushings, or tired pivots can all cause power loss. Fresh oil alone won’t solve the issue—mixing new oil with old, dirty oil can actually worsen wear.
Professional clock servicing involves fully disassembling and cleaning the movement, repairing worn areas, reassembling and lubricating it, and testing for accuracy. Though servicing can be costly—and sometimes exceed the clock’s market value—it’s well worth it for pieces with sentimental or historical importance.
It’s normal for an 8-day spring-driven clock to lose a bit of time toward the end of the week. As the mainspring unwinds, the stored energy gradually decreases, slightly slowing the movement.
Speed Variations and Clock Design
Seth Thomas round top 8-day clock
Some clocks include a device called a stopwork or Geneva stop, which limits the spring’s range to its most consistent section of power. This improves timekeeping but is relatively uncommon today—many clocks that once had stopworks have had them removed by repairers over the years.
Arrows showing Geneva stops or stop works
My Personnel Collection and the Variety of Run Times
Of the more than 80 clocks in my collection, about 30 are running at any given time. Five are 1-day ogee clocks, three have 14-day run times, and the remainder are 8-day models. Most antique and vintage clocks you find in shops or online are also 8-day clocks—the classic “once-a-week winders.”
Keeping a Regular Winding Schedule
Weight-driven 8-day clocks tend to be more accurate than spring-driven ones because their power source—a descending weight—delivers a constant force. They typically need only minor time corrections.
Final Thoughts
Winding your clock at the same time each week ensures steady performance. I make it a Sunday morning ritual to wind my clocks and make any necessary time adjustments.
Like any precision instrument, a clock rewards consistent care. With proper handling, regular maintenance, and timely servicing, an 8-day clock will live up to its name—keeping time faithfully, week after week.
Feel free to share your comments or questions below!
One cannot deny the classic style of an American Ogee clock. This one is in great shape and required almost nothing to get it to top form. 30-hour shelf clocks are abundant but not many cases survive years of wear and tear.
Dial removed to show the 30 hour movement
This George H. Clark 30-hour shelf clock is a very good example of Connecticut form. The case form is called an “og” or “ogee”, a mathematical term that describes the “S” curve shape in the primary molding that surrounds the door.
The clock has a brass time and strike, weight driven movement with an excellent original printed paper label on the interior reading in part “Made and Sold at/46 Courtlandt St/New York…. George H. Clark”. It measures 28 x 17 x 4.5”. This rectangular shaped case is decorated with nicely grained mahogany veneers. The veneer has very little if any losses.
The dial face
The upper section of the door is fitted with clear glass. Through this one can view the painted wood dial. The wood dial tells me that it is an early pre-1850 clock. This dial is formatted with a Roman numeral time track.
It is always a challenge matching 100+-year-old paint but by combining white. brown and yellow acrylic paint I was able to approximate the original colour. Some Roman Numerals were touched up with black acrylic paint.
The wood dial before touch-ups
And after numerals and face given a matching paint; you can see the difference in the number 4
I also glued two small blocks under the left and right “L” pins to centre the dial correctly.
The door is open showing the gong coil and the pasted label in very good condition
The lower section features a beehive painted tablet. The tablet is a replacement but fairly close to what would have been there at the time.
Beehive design; not original but in keeping with the style
Observations regarding the movement
The movement looks like an early (unmarked) Waterbury, ca. 1860 type 2.411. Waterbury movements have “quarter-round” corners, while most other ogee movements tend to have the “tombstones” or plain rectangles. The movement could have been swapped but It is difficult to tell.
A clean Jerome style movement
Everything except the movement points to a period between 1840-50. If the movement is a replacement it was likely an early replacement.
30-hour movements will run surprisingly well with horrible pivot wear. However, regarding repair, my view is this: I do not normally install new bushings in every single pivot hole on the movement. If a bushing hole is passable I will leave it as-is but if the hole is quite oblong I will install a new bushing to mitigate potential gear meshing issues in the future.
Addressing the movement
I will also ignore some past repairs. For example, in this particular movement I noticed 4 punch marks around the escape wheel bridge pivot hole. As most clock repairers know using a punch to close a pivot hole was an acceptable practice many years ago though it is not considered a good practice today. In this particular case, the pivot hole was in good shape and I decided to leave it as-is. After assessing the movement further, I installed one bushing on the second wheel front plate strike side (S2) and the second on the second wheel strike side rear plate (T2). Just two bushings. As to the three lantern pinions, they were in very good condition.
Reassembly was routine. The time side ran fine.
Adjusting the strike side was not easy and should have been a simple procedure. The problem was not only correctly positioning the warning pin on the fly but ensuring that the warning hook lever could actually meet the warning hook. The levers in this clock had been bent every which way making it a real challenge to find the correct angles. It did not strike correctly before servicing. Trial and error combined with colourful language certainly helped correct the strike.
The finished clock
The gong block and coil were also cleaned up. Tip; it helps to put the same screws back in the same holes. Seems trivial but it is a good practice. Not all screws are the same.
Gong block removed and cleaned
Little time was spent on this clock and I was fortunate to have an almost perfect case. The previous owner knew how to take care of the case but the movement neede work. When many of these clocks stopped they simply became decorations but I am sure that this one will run reliably for many more years to come.
This George H. Clark 30-hour shelf clock is a very good example of Connecticut form. The case form is called and “og” or “ogee”. a mathematical term that describes the “S” curve shape in the primary molding that surrounds the door.
The clock has a brass time, strike, weight driven movement with original printed paper label on the interior reading in part “Made and Sold at/46 Courtlandt St/New York…. George H. Clark”. It measures 28 x 17 x 4.5”. This rectangular shaped case is decorated with nicely grained mahogany veneers. The veneer has very little if any losses. The one blemish on the top is auction label glue which took off some of finish but was later retouched with shellac.
The upper section of the door is fitted with clear glass. Through this one can view the painted wood dial. The wood dial tells us that it is an early pre-1850 clock. This dial is formatted with a Roman numeral time track. The lower section features a beehive painted tablet. The tablet is a replacement but fairly close to what would have been there at the time.
Wood dial in fair shape; the spade hands might not be original, veneer is stripped where an auction label was placed
An online search for “George H. Clark clocks” or “Clarke” turns up various references at 46 Courtlandt Street, anywhere from 1844 to 1847. They mention a George H. Clark (no “E”) in Bristol in the early 1840’s, and then in New York City in the late 1840’s. He is said to have sold Ogee clocks with 30-hour brass weight movements. Spittlers and Bailey, an important source for Ogee clocks of this period, mention George H. Clarke (with the “E”) and they indicate a label with the words “Made and Sold at 46 Courtlandt St.”
Good label and original pendulum bob
They say “No date” for this Clarke. Two different people? A name like Clark/Clarke, may be variants of the same basic name and the same person.
The pendulum bob is also 1840s in style.
Coil gong
The label is in good condition. In pencil below the address are the initials “GLD” plus the date “Dec 29” that may ether refer to a day in the month or the year 1929. A service date perhaps. The overall look of the label is 1840-50 in style.
There is a screw to the right of the gong. Screws in this location are used to anchor the clock to a wall and are common as clocks such as these are top heavy when the weights are wound fully to the top of the case.
George H. Clark type 2.411 30 hour movement, possibly Waterbury but unmarked
The movement looks like an early (but unmarked) Waterbury, ca. 1860 type 2.411. Waterbury movements have “quarter-round” corners, while most other ogee movements tend to have the “tombstones” or plain rectangles. The movement could have been swapped but It’s hard to tell because it appears original to the case.
Everything except the movement points to a period between 1840-50.
Aside from touching up the slight damage on the top part of the case there is nothing else to be done. The movement? That will have to be taken out and serviced but I will leave that to another day.
This is a recent acquisition bought at a local online estate auction site. It has a curious fact that I found quite intriguing.
My wife and I saw a very attractive colonial style Stickley writers desk and while browsing further through the online catalogue I noticed 2 clocks. One was an IBM style time clock and the other was this, a 30 hour New Haven Sharp Gothic (steeple) time and strike clock.
Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose but we do not get caught up in the fever of bidding
Early in the day we put a maximum bid of $60 on the Stickley desk and $40 on the steeple clock. As we often do, we let the bids stand while we go about our day. Our usual strategy is to apply the most we think we would pay. Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose but we do not get caught up in the fever of bidding. At the end of the bidding day, we discovered that we had won both items. Of course, as auction goers know there is a buyers premium and a tax on anything you “win” which adds to the price.
Stickley is an American maker of fine furniture and is best known for their timeless mission style designs. We are pleased to have won a well-made and attractive little desk that is a great addition to our sun-room. The fact that It is in exceptional condition is a plus.
Stickley writing desk circa 1940
The New Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers
The other win was a $40 steeple clock. Steeple clocks, otherwise known at the time as Sharp Gothics, were made from about the 1830s to around 1900. This is a 30-hour clock which is easily recognizable from the front face by the close proximity of the winding holes to the centre arbour.
History of the New Haven Clock Co.
The New Haven clock Co. produced clocks for over 100 years. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company eventually bought out the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand. Early unmarked movements were Jerome designed.
In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and was succeeded by Edwin P. Root.
In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returned to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.
The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes had declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960. After over 100 years the company was no more.
My auction win
This New Haven clock is in very good condition apart from minor veneer issues on the base and the columns. The clock is also missing the very tip of the right finial although it might be hard to tell from the photo. It measures 20 1/2 inches tall with a 5-inch dial. The movement appears to be original to the case. The dial is original and has some loss that would be expected in a 148-year-old clock. What I thought was a photograph taped to the lower glass is the original tablet. The tablet is interesting because it features a sailboat against Greek (?) temples surrounded by gold foliage on a black background. The design of the tablet was used in other New Haven clocks of the time. Though likely intended for European export the clock found its way to Canada instead.
Eight-day clocks eventually replaced 30-hour clocks 1865 to 1870 seems about right
Lower tablet
Now for a curious fact!
In my attempt to date the clock I found some information that narrows the time frame somewhat. It has an almost perfect label save for some staining on the bottom left. There is an over-pasted square blue coloured label on the bottom centre from a clock retailer in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. As regular readers know, Halifax is only an hours drive from my home.
The small blue label says, “Thomas D. Spike, watchmaker and jeweler”. I accessed an online database and found that the business was listed in the 1869-70 City of Halifax business directory, however, I could not find how long the business was in operation. Logically, I can assume the clock came from his shop and is from that period.
Thomas D. Spike, watchmaker and jeweler, Halifax, Nova Scotia
According to one source the tapered escape wheel bridge was introduced around 1870. The tablet style is typical of the 1870s, so 1870 is very close to the date it was made.
Label in very good condition
The movement is a count wheel strike. The clock runs and keeps time but the strike side fails to stop. Once the clock starts striking it keeps on until the mainspring runs down. This is a common problem. In most cases, the warning wheel misses the locking lever even though the count lever in the deep notch and the maintenance lever is in the maintenance-cam notch. Bending a lever or two is a relatively easy fix but the clock must be dis-assembled in order to make this adjustment.
30 hour time and strike movement
However, I must put the clock aside for now as I have a Mauthe wall clock and a Jerome Ogee on the workbench. Once those projects are out of the way I can focus on repairing the veneer and servicing the movement of this fine example of an American sharp Gothic shelf clock from 1870.
This is the fourth and final article on this curious and somewhat homely Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock. I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it.
It is a clock that had been passed down within the family and as you can see it went through a significant change. I thought about next steps and considered advice from friends and family. It came down to three options:
1) Do absolutely nothing, preserve it as-is and store it in a closet,
2) Discard the case out, buy a donor case and install the parts I have in the new case or,
3) Preserve it, that is, not change it in a significant way but make some cosmetic changes and have it run reliably.
The drop door, movement and other things
The next photo shows the clock after the glass bezel was installed, the dial face was refreshed and the case was given a coat of dark walnut stain (the number “IIII” has a reflection from an overhead light). You can still see the plywood and the nail heads but my objective was to clean it up, refresh and preserve the character of the homemade case.
Dark walnut stain, dial re-freshened and glass installed
The access drop door:
The clock requires an access door on the short drop, the opening is unsightly. As you can see in the photo above the cut-out is rough and a door will effectively hide it. Making a n access door is a simple project and will enhance the appearance of the case.
I have an old Ogee clock case that I use for any wooden parts required for clock projects. I cut a 1/4 inch piece and fashioned the door panel using a paper template for the dimensions. There are two panels which make up an inner and outer door sections.
First, I used paper as a template to draw the new door.
The template is a sheet of paper
I cut the inner and outer door panels using a table saw and sanded all sides.
Inner and outer door, cut and sanded
Next, using masking tape I taped one piece to the other. I positioned my hand in the drop area so the inner piece would be aligned correctly with the door panel.
Glue applied to both panels
Once the panels were aligned I removed the masking tape, gave the panels a final sanding, then applied yellow carpenters glue to both panels. Hide glue would have been used originally but the goal for this little project is to hide the crude cutout, not to replicate woodworking methods at the time it was constructed. Yellow glue is appropriate for this project; it is stronger and has a high bonding strength.
The two panels are clamped together.
Next, a dark walnut stain was applied to the door panel to match the case. Installing the door to the case required two small brass hinges mounted on the right side. For the pull handle, I decided to go with a wood knob stained in dark walnut.
Drop installed and stained to match case
Final steps:
A small piece of wood was affixed to the inside of the dial cutout to ensure that the hinge screws had something to bite into. Following this, the glass bezel door was attached.
Block on left is glued in place to screw the door hinge to the case
Next are dummy slotted wood screws for the bezel holes, basically to conceal the holes.
The drilled holes in the bezel are unsightly
The door project is almost complete, door pull missing in photo
Having sorted out the striking issue the movement is now installed in the case.
My thoughts on this project:
Prior to the first pictures I saw, I had visions of a clock that needed a little work to restore it. When I discovered that the case was homemade it was a disappointment. After giving it much thought it seemed that the most appropriate course of action was to preserve what I had.
Overall the cost of bringing this clock back to running condition and refreshing the case was minimal. Was it worth it? Yes! It is now complete, it shows better and it will tell an interesting story for years to come.
It may not be the prettiest clock on the wall but it will be a great conversation piece and after 60 years it is functional and it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.
An antique clock stopping unexpectedly can be frustrating, especially if it has been running smoothly for years. However, a stopped clock doesn’t always signal a major problem. In many cases, the issue can be resolved with a little troubleshooting and basic maintenance. Whether it’s a cherished family heirloom or a recent addition to your collection, understanding the possible reasons behind its stoppage can help you decide on the best course of action to bring it back to life.
Perhaps you’ve recently acquired a mechanical clock—whether inherited, gifted, purchased at an antique store, bought online, or one you’ve had for a while—and, for no clear reason, it has stopped working.
Categories of Clocks
There are four general categories of clock movements; quartz, electro-mechanical, electric, and mechanical. This post focuses on mechanical clocks, whether antique or vintage and if your mechanical clock has stopped, I may be able to help you get it working again.
Running Time
It may surprise some that mechanical clocks require regular winding. Eight-day clocks need to be wound once a week, while 30-hour clocks require daily winding. 31-day clocks only need winding once a month, and 400-day clocks, also known as anniversary clocks, are wound once a year. Additionally, many German and a small number of American clocks run for 14 days before needing a wind.
Kundo Standard 400-day clock winds with a key once per year
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 14-day time-only clock
Winding a Clock Movement
What does winding a clock actually mean? It means providing enough power to a mechanism that will allow it to run for its designed cycle.
For example for clocks with mainsprings, winding a mainspring implies turning the key until the clock winds no further. Time and strike clocks will have two winding arbours, chiming clocks generally have 3 winding arbours.
Clocks with weights have one, two, or three winding points. Absent the odd exception, a time-only clock will have one winding point, a time-and-strike clock will have two, and a chiming clock will have three. If there are no winding holes on the clock face, it is a weight-driven clock and the weights must be pulled up by hand.
In the case of clocks with mainsprings that provide the motive power for the time, strike, and chimes, wind each arbour until resistance is met and you cannot wind any further.
One key will fit all the arbours except the regulator arbour (on clocks that have this feature) which requires a smaller key. Clocks that have a regulator arbour originally came with a double-ended key; the smaller key is for the regulator.
Clocks generally wind clockwise but it is also common to find winding arbours that must be wound counterclockwise.
Over-winding
The idea of overwinding a clock is a myth. If a clock stops after being fully wound, it typically indicates that dirt, old oil, or grime on the mainspring has caused it to seize. Even if the mainspring, once unseized, has enough power, it still needs cleaning, which requires disassembling the movement and checking for other potential issues.
A clock in good working condition should complete its full cycle, whether that’s 30 hours, 8 days, 14 days, 31 days, or any other duration.
Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows). The arbour over the 6 requires a smaller key to regulate the clock
Why Has My Clock Stopped
First and foremost, all clocks require motive power. Winding a clock stores potential energy in the mainspring, which is gradually released over a designed period of time. This energy is regulated by the escapement, a mechanism that controls the release of the energy in small, consistent increments, ensuring the clock keeps accurate time. Weights resting on the bottom of the baseboard will stop a clock and a completely unwound spring-driven clock will not run.
Is the clock in beat? Put your clock on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to its rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, tick….. tock or tock tick…… Put another way, there must be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will not run, or it will run for a short time and stop. A clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.
Is the clock level? There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. If it is a wall clock move the bottom section from side to side till you hear a steady beat. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.
Adjusting the crutch Adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring. Other mantel clocks require similar adjustment to the crutch and instructions may be provided on a label or a pamphlet that came with the clock. A clock with a balance wheel or lever-type escapement rather than a pendulum will operate on a non-level surface.
American made time and strike
Have repairs been done recently? Unless you had a friend fix your clock most reputable clock-makers will offer a warranty, typically 6 months to a year. If your clock stops within that time frame, contact the clock-repairer who may offer a few suggestions in the form of adjustments, over the phone before taking it back to the shop. If it still does not work have that person take a look at the clock.
Do you have the correct pendulum? Other than the winding key, it seems to be the item that gets lost the most. If lost or misplaced, ensure you buy a pendulum that is correct for your clock. One too light may mean that it does not run at all, too heavy and the centre of gravity is lowered and the clock might run too slowly. Clock suppliers such asPerrin or Timesavers will have the correct pendulum for your clock.
Pendulum bob with an adjuster for a French time and strike
Something is broken? If there is no resistance when turning the winding key, the mainspring has broken or a click has let go. If the mainspring winds but releases in your hand, the most common cause is a broken or worn click spring. This is a repair that requires removing the movement from its case, taking it apart, and replacing the worn or damaged part. If you are skilled with that kind of repair, go ahead and fix it, if not, a specialist is required.
A loud BANG when you turn the key indicates the mainspring has broken or let go. It may not be as simple as replacing the mainspring. If the mainspring breaks it might have taken out other parts with it such as pinions and gear cogs. This is called collateral damage. An inspection and a full servicing of the movement is the only solution. Occasionally a broken mainspring is the only problem but the broken spring must come out of the barrel. Some movement designs allow the barrel to be removed without disassembling the mechanism. Whether the barrel is removable or not, a correct mainspring must be sourced to replace it and installed in the barrel which is a job for an expert.
The mainspring inside the barrel may also have become unhooked. This could occur if the clock was wound backward or if the hooked end of the mainspring is split or broken. To address this, the clock will need to be disassembled, the spring barrel opened, and the cause of the unhooking identified. In some cases, a replacement mainspring may be necessary.
For time and strike clocks with open mainsprings, the break may be on one mainspring or both. The clock must be completely disassembled, mainsprings replaced, the movement inspected for other issues, reassembled, and tested.
Sessions click, brass spring, and ratchet
Why does my weight-driven clock stop? Ensure that the weights are in their correct location. If it is a new acquisition of a grandfather clock the three weights have a specific location. Look underneath the weight shells for marks indicating their location “L”, left side, “C”, center and “R”, right side. If there are no markings, use a scale to determine the one that is the lightest weight and put that on the left side.
Ridgway grandfather clock
When bringing up the weights to the top of the clock be careful that they are not run past their stops. You should have a full view of the weights on a weight-driven clock once wound.
Antique Ogee clocks and other weight-driven shelf clocks often lack their original weights, as these have been lost or misplaced over time. Eight-day clocks typically have heavier 8 or 9 lb weights while 30-hour clocks have lighter 2 1/2 lb or 3 lb weights. Incorrect weights for these clocks will cause them to stop.
Is the weight cord or the brass cable binding in any way? The cord or cable should be just long enough to accommodate the weights. A cord or cable that is too long will bind while being wound and stop the clock.
Gustav Becker two-weight wall clock requires a winding crank
Some clocks like weight-driven Vienna Regulators can be adjusted by a transverse regulating screw assembly where the crutch inserts into a slot in the pendulum. Turning a screw in one direction or the other will correct the beat.
Final thoughts
In conclusion, if you encounter a unique issue not addressed here, it’s advisable to consult a professional clock repairer or someone with expertise in mechanical clock repairs. Working with mechanical clocks carries a certain level of risk, as the power stored in the mainsprings can cause injury if not handled carefully. On the other hand, weight-driven clocks generally present less risk.
Although this article may not cover every possible scenario, I hope it has provided you with a clearer understanding of your clock’s issue and how to approach its resolution.
Ogee clock prices seem to be at their lowest level in years. If you have your heart set on an Ogee clock, there is probably no better time to buy than now.
Ogee clock; clock design that originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the ogee clock stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were usually made of brass and were made to run for 30 hours or eight days. (Brittanica.com)
Earlier this year (2018) I bought three Ogee clocks at an estate auction. There were about a dozen clocks up for bid, some gingerbreads, a couple of mantel clocks and a few Ogee clocks. Fearing that the auction would bring out collectors I surmised that the clocks would fetch somewhat higher prices. Though there were many clocks there were few aficionados. I scored three clocks, all were in very good condition though they were running poorly.
Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock
This Daniel Pratt Jr clock caught my eye. It is reverse ogee and splat, time and strike with wood movement made in the mid-1830s. My winning bid was a mere 30CDN. Ogee clocks with wood movements have sold for at least 200CDN in years past and eBay asking prices for Daniel Pratt Jr. clocks are typically between 60US and 200US. Although Ogee clocks have hit rock bottom in Canada the same may not be true elsewhere.
Wooden movement, time and strike
I have written about the decline in clock prices in a previous post. There is a legion of unwanted clocks out there. EBay and other online sites are flooded with ordinary antique clocks though special interest clocks still command higher prices. Many reasons are attributed to the decline though the poor economy in recent years is a major factor. Since 2008 clock prices have been dropping steadily and an upward direction in the near future looks dim. Prices are at or near the bottom. As the economy improves and antique buyers return to the marketplace we will see an uptick in values. In the meantime, now is certainly the time to buy.
Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr
I paid 60CDN each for the other two Ogee clocks, one a Chauncey Jerome 30 hour time and strike, circa 1857, the other, a George H. Clark 30 hour time and strike, circa 1860.
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock
George H Clark 30 hour Ogee clock
Sellers are posting inflated prices but a clock is only worth what the buyer will pay. Do your research and learn to shop with a critical eye and you be rewarded.
Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock with mirrored tablet
This Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse Ogee shelf clock was made in Reading, Massachusetts, c. 1832-38. It has a splat-top mahogany case with half (?) reverse Ogee moldings flanking the door, painted wooden Roman numeral dial and mirrored lower tablet.
Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr
The label inside states in part.
Clocks manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr. Reading Mass, U.S. Sold in any quantities on reasonable terms
The label is a ink drawing of a clock merchants shop and is printed by Dickinson and Co. 52 Washington St. Boston.
Wooden movement, time and strike
Wooden Roman numeral dial with missing grommet on right arbor hole
Daniel Pratt (1797-1871), Jr., clock-maker, banker, town clerk, legislator, lived in the town of Reading, Massachusetts, in the 1800s. Reading is a suburb twelve miles north of Boston. Pratt did not contribute much to clock-making and was regarded as an entrepreneur rather than an innovator. He made wooden movements in his plant, as well as wooden cases. The clocks they sold during the 1832-35 period were typically wooden movement, weight driven, 30 hour, wood-cased, “looking glass” shelf clocks.
This Pratt clock measures 28 inches high, 14 3/4 inches wide, and has a depth of 5 inches. It is covered with mahogany veneer over pine. The square dial is of painted wood, 9 inches wide by 8 1/2 inches tall, with Roman numerals with floral spandrels. The dial is in good condition for the age of the clock. This clock was produced during the heyday of wood movements which were eventually phased out when cheaper but more reliable brass movements were introduced after 1839.
The memory of this successful man is continued by the quiet, even beat of his many clocks which have survived to this day — truly a great honour indeed.
I bought four clocks at an estate auction several weeks ago, this and three other Ogee clocks plus a parlour clock. This clock is no less interesting than the others but I was lucky enough to research its maker and date it fairly accurately. I wish I knew its provenance but nevertheless it is an excellent example and has been well cared for over the years.
It is a Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clock. No-one can deny that Chauncey Jerome had made a historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works and was said to be “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made a fortune selling his clocks, and his business grew quickly his company failed in 1856.
Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314
The number 11 Ogee was the last of the Jerome clocks made in 1855. Mike Bailey, a Chauncey Jerome clock collector has an excellent blog in which he meticulously details and dates Jerome cases and movements. After researching his site I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy, 1855. It has the Jerome patent 30 hour brass movement number 1.314 which is likely original to the case.
Type 1.314 movement, very dirty
There were some issues with the movement as you would expect from a 156 year old clock. There were a number of punch marks here and there, but specifically on the first wheel and the second wheel time side. The movement had years of dirt. The repairs over the years are typical for this type of clock. Punching to close pivot holes would have been the preferred approach to repairing a worn clock. With the advent of the modern bushing machine repairs are much simpler.
Eight bushings were installed. The first wheel strike side, the second wheel strike side plus the fly, the lower gear off the centre cannon, rear plate and 3 bushings on the time side.
Punch marks on first wheel, strike side
A piece came off the wood support for the movement when I disassembled the movement. Dry-rot perhaps. I had leftover hide glue from a previous project, applied the glue and clamped it for 24 hours.
Broken movement support
The retainer clip for the count wheel was riveted in placed and prevented me from taking it apart.
Retainer clip for count wheel riveted in place, not nice!
Some were punched very close to the pivot hole as you can see in this next photo. I left that as-is and decided to take a second look in a year or two.
Looks like a large pivot hole but actually punched very close to the hole
After eight bushings were installed (4 in the front and 2 in the rear) and an ultrasonic cleaning, the parts are test fit to check the smooth running of the gears. The rope for the weights looked re-usable, they were not replaced. The suspension spring also looked to be in good shape. The crutch wire has had bending and twisting over the years but it was also re-usable.
Test fitting parts after cleaning
30 hour movement servicing, oiled, movement in the case
C Jerome 30 hour movement testing in the case
Now to regulate the movement. The clock is ticking away nicely and in beat. There are always challenges setting the strike side and this movement is no exception. However, through trial and error the strike side is functioning as it should.
These are very simple clocks to service and a great movement to hone your clock repair skills.
I bought four wonderful clocks at an estate auction several weeks ago, this and three other Ogee clocks plus a parlour clock. This clock is no less interesting than the other three but I was lucky enough to research its maker and date the manufacture to within a year or two.
Noble Jerome’s invention showed that with the one-day brass movement, clocks could be mass produced economically and in great quantities
I wish I knew its provenance, how many hands it passed through, where it has been, what homes it has been in and even its last owner. All that is a mystery to me, nonetheless this clock is an excellent example of the classic Ogee weight driven shelf clock and a well-cared-for time-keeper.
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock with J.C. Brown house in lower tablet
Chauncey Jerome: The greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clocks are not a rarity. Thousands upon thousands were made. However, no-one can deny Chauncey Jerome’s historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works. He was “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made his fortune selling his clocks and his business grew quickly his company eventually failed in 1856.
Chauncey Jerome (1793–1868) was one of many pioneer American clock-makers. Jerome began his career in Waterbury, Connecticut (USA), making dials for long-case clocks. Jerome learned what he could about clocks, particularly clock cases, and went to New Jersey to make seven-foot cases for clocks. In 1816 he went to work for Eli Terry making “Patent Shelf Clocks,” and learned how to make previously handmade cases using machinery. His venture into business for himself eventually led to making cases and trading them to Terry for wooden movements.
In 1822 Jerome moved his business to Bristol, Connecticut opening a small shop with his brother Noble, producing 30-hour and eight-day wooden clocks. By 1837 Jerome’s company was selling more clocks than any of his competitors. A one-day wood-cased clock with wood movement sold for six dollars and had helped put the company on the map. A year later his company was selling that same clock for four dollars. As profits began falling combined with a general malaise in the manufacturing sector, it was not long before Noble Jerome’s patented clockwork innovation, the 30 hour brass weight driven movement introduced in 1839 changed clock making in America. The design was proposed by Chauncey in response to the 1837 nationwide depression that closed many clock factories. Noble’s invention showed that with the one-day brass movement, clocks could be mass produced economically and in great quantities.
Jerome also made clocks according to what he termed the “systematic approach” where selected workers made one part of a clock while other workers simultaneously constructed other parts in the same factory, a precursor to the assembly line method of manufacture.
Coil gong, polished, incorrect position in this photo
In 1842 Jerome moved his clock-case manufacturing operation to St. John Street in New Haven, Connecticut. Three years later, following a fire that destroyed the Bristol plant, Jerome relocated the entire operation to Elm City. Enlarging the plant, the company soon became the largest industrial employer in the city, producing 150,000 clocks annually. In 1850 Jerome formed the Jerome Manufacturing Co. as a joint-stock company with Benedict & Burnham, brass manufacturers of Waterbury. In 1853 the company became known as the New Haven Clock Co., producing 444,000 clocks and timepieces annually. Jerome’s future should have been secure but in 1855 he bought out a failed Bridgeport clock company controlled by P.T. Barnum, (a good read, it is a very tangled story) which wiped him out financially, leaving the Jerome Manufacturing Co. bankrupt in 1856. Jerome never recovered from the loss. By his own admission, he was a better innovator and inventor than a businessman.
In the years following he traveled from town to town and took jobs where he could, often working for clock companies that had learned the business of clock making using Jerome’s inventions. Returning to New Haven near the end of his life, he died, penniless, in 1868 at age 74.
The ticking of a clock is music to me, and although many of my experiences as a business man have been trying and bitter, I have satisfaction of knowing that I have lived the life of an honest man, and have been of some use to my fellow men
Chauncey Jerome 1860
This the number 11 Ogee was the last of the Jerome clocks made no later than the fall of 1855 when Jerome Manufacturing Co. failed. Mike Bailey, a Chauncey Jerome clock collector has an excellent blog in which he meticulously details and dates Jerome cases and movements. After researching his site I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy in 1855. It is the Jerome patent 30 hour brass movement number 1.314. The movement appears to be original to the case.
Chauncey Jerome one-day movement type 1.314, yes, very dirty
The clock has a zinc dial and an image of JC Brown’s house in the lower tablet. Jerome was the first to introduce the zinc dial. It might have originally had a mirrored lower tablet. However it now features the JC Brown’s home. The J.C. Brown home in Forestville was featured on the tablet of many of his (Brown) Ogee clocks and it is unclear why it is on this clock. From 1847-1855 Brown conducted business without partners as the Forestville Manufacturing Company or the Forestville Clock Manufactory.
Rear of zinc dial
On the back of the zinc dial are inscriptions that I can barely make out. It says 1860 April 9??? on the top of the dial and 1866, Feb 2 and UPO 477 on the bottom. I tried to enhance it as best I could. Could this dial be a later replacement?
Overall the veneer is in excellent condition though it has been covered at some point with a clear coat of varnish. The weights appear original with the strike side having the slightly lighter weight as one would expect. The pendulum bob is consistent with the age of the clock and the label is largely intact. This was the last label Jerome used before his company went bankrupt.
Label showing Benham Printer, 55 Orange Street, New Haven at bottom center
The movement is not running reliably. It is very dirty and long overdue for a cleaning, plus, the movement has had some poor repairs over the years.
Much of the information for this post is from Chauncey Jerome’s autobiography entitled History of the American Clock Business for the Past 60 Years, a free copy which you can find here.
Next up is servicing the movement which I will cover in a separate post.
This is Part II of a three part series on my first venture into veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.
This is an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front. It has a Plymouth Lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label. The clock was made in the early 1870s.
Part I explores the steps in preparation for veneer repair.
The focus of this, Part II, is the selection of the correct veneer, working with hide glue, as well as cutting, applying and trimming the veneer.
Although one is tempted to use readily available yellow or white carpenters glue the only authentic product to use is hide glue
The veneer
I am not an expert in wood finishes and determining the type of veneer was my first major task. To do this I had to rely on expertise to tell me that I had Rosewood veneer. Once I discovered the type of veneer, I had to determine the quantity and the specific repairs that are required for this clock. My research revealed that the veneer used at the time was Brazilian Rosewood. An exotic wood, Rosewood would have been used extensively by clock-makers of that era and it is the correct veneer for this project. A clock friend (thanks JC) sent me two 7 X 8 inch pieces of Rosewood veneer, more than enough for the job.
The very worst sections were the top and bottom of the case and the column bases as one would expect given wear and tear over the years. Most of the cornice veneer is in good shape as are the door sections, door surrounds and the sleighs just above the feet.
Hide glue
One is tempted to use readily available yellow or white carpenters glue but the only authentic adhesive for clock case applications is hide glue. Hide glue is the glue of choice and it would have been utilized at the time the clock was manufactured. I chose pearl hide glue which is a type of hide glue rated at 150g Bloom strength. It takes takes a little longer to gel and with the longer working time it is better for applications like this when you need time to fit, but where high strength is not absolutely essential.
If you have never worked with hide glue, it is best to start with a small batch. My first batch was larger than I needed and too thin. Simply put 2 tablespoons (30ml) of glue in a heat-resistant glass container, cover with 1 tablespoons (15ml) of cold water and let soak for about an hour or until the glue softens and becomes gelatinous. Less is more and I recommend making small quantities. For about 20CDN you can buy a supply that will last a long time.
Place the container with the gelatinous glue in a bath of water in a pot especially designed for hide glue or a double boiler which I found worked just as well. Heat to approximately 140°F (60°C) and maintain the temperature. A candy thermometer is ideal to keep the glue at an even temperature.
Home-made double boiler with temperature maintained on a hot plate
Tools
Clamps, weights, tweezers, wax paper, a sharp knife, a metal straight-edge, painter’s tape, a micrometer, sand paper, palm sander and whatever you choose to use as a double boiler complete the list of tools.
A micrometer is an indispensable tool for accurate measurements. Accurate measurements ensure a good fit, minimize the use of fillers and lessen waste.
A micrometer ensures an accurate cut
Cutting, trimming & clamping
Cutting veneer can be tricky. Veneer is thin, brittle and can easily tear. Veneer today is different than veneer used 100+ years ago, it is very thin. On some clocks you may need to double-up, that is layer the veneer to approach the height of the original veneer.
Cutting can be a challenge since you must follow the grain and those narrow strips can break very easily. Painters tape is a true friend since it prevents tearing and it is easily removed from the veneer prior to application.
Painters tape ensure a rip free cut
Painters tape easily peels off
You will never have enough clamps
I chose to work one area at a time moving from the bottom of the case to the top. The next photos shows veneer sections glued and clamped into place. Clamps are essential for veneer repair but when clamps do not work other methods such as weights can be employed. You will never have enough clamps! Although a clamp need only be in place for a few hours, having it on for a 24 hours is best for maximum adhesion.
Clamping cornice veneer
Door piece and corner base piece is clamped
The upper left cornice presented a unique challenge. A section was missing just above the cornice. Fashioned out of softwood it was glued in place.
A piece of pine was cut to fit
Strip of veneer glued in place; prior to trimming and sanding
In this photo the piece for the curved part of the veneer is applied. The top area of the front cornice is now ready for staining and finishing.
Small angular cornice piece on left is glued in place
Top section is almost complete except for a left side cornice section (not visible in this shot)
As with any other project there will always be a slight colour variance as one would expect over the course of a century or more but the goal is to come as close to the original finish as possible
As mentioned the worst areas were the very top and very bottom of the case, expected after years of wear and tear. Another area which had veneer loss were the column bases. When possible I used old veneer to repair small areas but I found it very brittle and hard to work with. From my research I discovered that there are methods of softening old veneer but that can wait until the next project.
Right column base, prior to sanding and trimming
After many hours the veneer work is now complete The next step is colour matching the new to the existing veneer. As you can see in the following photo the chip held by green tape shows that Rosewood Minwax Gel stain is a close match to the older veneer. My experimentation did not end. Part III explores other finishing options.
As with any other project such as this there will always be a slight colour variance as one would expect over the course of a century or more. The goal is to be as close as possible to the original finish.
Colour matching test: the green tape is holding a chip that has one coat of Rosewood stain
Now that the veneer work has been applied the next and final stage is finishing. Stay tuned for Part III in a few days time.
Clocks have been more than just timekeepers throughout history; they are reflections of art, culture, and technological innovation. Whether for practical use or decorative appeal, clock styles have evolved to match the tastes, craftsmanship, and technologies of their times. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic and varied clock styles.
The clock is an instrument designed to keep and indicate time. It is one of the oldest human inventions. The clock has evolved through the ages from sundials in ancient times to early tower clocks of the 14th century weight-driven clocks and finally spring-driven clocks from the 1840s to the 1970s.
The world of mechanical clocks encompasses a wide variety of styles, and distinguishing between them can often be confusing—such as understanding the difference between a shelf clock and a mantel clock. In this article, I’ll navigate through these terms and highlight the most common styles or types, using examples from my own clock collection to illustrate them.
Mantel Clock
Many auction sites and even professional websites use the word mantle. The correct terminology is “mantel”. A mantle is a shawl or coat worn by women, an important role passed on from one person to another or the earth’s crust. A mantel is the top framing of a fireplace or a shelf above a fireplace opening.
A mantel clock is designed to fit on top of a fireplace or shelf. A mantel clock can be time only, time and strike, or a chiming clock. Generally, if there are 2 winding arbours it is a time and strike clock, if the clock has 3 winding arbours is it a chiming clock that is, it will play a tune on the quarter hours, the most common being the Westminster chime.
Mantel clocks might also be referred to as shelf clocks or buffet clocks.
Kitchen Clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Kitchen clocks are often referred to as gingerbread clocks or parlour clocks. At times, it can be difficult to differentiate between a kitchen clock and a parlour clock. Gingerbread clocks are distinctive because their designs are typically created by steam-pressing the wooden front face. However, some clocks, like the one above, are made using a powered cutting saw but are still classified as kitchen clocks. Additionally, some of these clocks included alarm mechanisms. The terms gingerbread, kitchen, and parlour are often used interchangeably.
Another type of kitchen clock is shown below. This is an 8-day time-only delft wall clock made by Forestville.
Delft Clock from ForestvilleE. N. Welch Whittier model
A parlour clock is generally considered more ornate than a kitchen clock, although it may still be referred to as a kitchen clock. It is placed in front hallways, entryways, and so on. The designs are always cut and there may be finials, a mercury-filled pendulum or very ornate design, garish trim pieces, and a decorative tablet.
Vienna Regulator
Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna regulator
There are many styles but most are of the single-weight or two-weight variety. The definition of a Vienna regulator is always open to debate but the consensus among collectors is that they are weight-driven, made in Austria/Germany, ornate in design, have porcelain dials, decorative crowns, large pendulums, and finials on the top and bottom.
The broad definition of Vienna Regulator includes those that are spring-driven. Though not defined as “regulators” it is acceptable among collectors to refer to them as a Vienna style.
Cottage Clock
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
Sometimes called a mantel clock or a shelf clock, they are usually diminutive in size to occupy a smaller space. They are found in bedrooms and kitchens and are sturdily built since they are often designed to be portable. They come in time only, time and strike, or may have an alarm function.
Carriage Clock
French Carriage Clock
Carriage clocks are portable and were very popular around the turn of the 20th century. French-made carriage clocks are more collectible and fetch generally higher prices although American ones can be quite desirable. Carriage clocks are designed to be portable and are time-only but some are time and strike (with a repeater function) while others may have an alarm function.
Crystal Regulator
Ansonia Crystal Regulator
Crystal Regulator clocks are identified by a brass case with 4 crystals or glass panels. Porcelain dials, Roman or Arabic numerals, ornate in design but sometimes quite garish. Most are 10-12 inches in height though some are smaller. Makers are American and French though French crystal regulators are called four-glass clocks and tend to have higher value. Distinctive by their mercury or faux mercury pendulums. Some have visible Brocot escapements and the time and strike movements are always visible.
Cuckoo Clock
Cuckoo clock
These clocks are pendulum-regulated and make an automated sound like a cuckoo when it strikes the hours. Some can be very intricate with several animated characters. Desirable ones are antiques from the Black Forest region of Germany. Modern ones are generally frustrating to repair, cheaply built, and are poor timekeepers.
Lantern Clock
Converted lantern clock
A lantern clock is a type of antique weight-driven wall clock, shaped like a lantern. They were the first type of clock widely used in private homes. They probably originated before 1500 but only became common after 1600 and in Britain, around 1620. They became obsolete in the 19th century. The one pictured above has been converted into a fusee movement.
Alarm Clock
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
Alarm clocks are wound once per day and designed to do two things, wake you and display the time. They are cheap, and are average timekeepers but have long-lasting and reliable movements.
Desk Clock
Kienzle World Time clock
These sat on fancy office desks or credenzas in office locations. They are either time-only or time-and-strike. Most were time-only to minimize distractions in the office environment. Some are very attractive and have unique designs and are more decorative than utilitarian. This one above is called a World Time Clock by Kienzle.
Wall Clock
German Mauthe Box clock
A wall clock is broadly defined as any clock designed to be hung on a wall, making it a practical and visible timekeeping solution. Wall clocks come in various styles, from simple and functional designs to highly decorative pieces. This one by Mauthe is often described as a German “box” clock which became popular after the First World War and made into the 1940s.
Schoolhouse Clock
Ansonia schoolhouse clock
They are known as schoolhouse clocks because they hung in many schoolrooms in North America. Usually distinctive by their octagon shape and short or long drop feature with a glass door displaying a swinging pendulum. Many thousands were made; they had cheap mass-produced softwood cases and robust movements. Most were time-only though some were time and strike and others even included a calendar function.
When they were marketed years ago they were not called “schoolhouse clocks” but rather, clocks made for the schoolroom.
Novelty Clock
Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks
These clocks are designed for the tourist trade with interesting features. In the case of the above clock, a smiling Mao Zedong has his little red book in hand and is waving “to the masses” as the clock ticks.
Ogee Clock
Waterbury OG clock
It is so-called because of the curved molded wood case. It might also be referred to as an OG clock. The design originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (Ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the Ogee clock typically stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were generally made of brass (earlier ones were made of wood) and ran for 30 hours or eight days. This is a 30-hour weight-driven version from the 1870s.
Tall Case Clock
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime
Tall case clocks are known by various names depending on the region. They are referred to as tall-case clocks in American terminology, long-case clocks in British terminology, hall clocks in Canada, and sometimes as floor clocks. However, the most commonly used term is “grandfather clock.”
They are usually weight-driven, with the weights on chains or cables, and are distinctive by their obvious height. They are always 6 feet or over but can be as high as 8 feet high (1.8 to 2.4 meters). They often feature elaborately carved ornamentation on the hood (or bonnet), the frames, the throat, and the dial or clock face. Older ones have 30-hour movements but all modern grandfather clocks run on an 8-day cycle.
Smaller clocks are called grandmother and granddaughter clocks. They are under 6 feet.
Anniversary Clock
Kundo standard size 400-day clock
These clocks are also called torsion clocks or 400-day clocks. 400-day clocks are torsion driven having a long suspension spring to which a weight oscillates back and forth. Typically these clocks operate at 8 beats per minute and run for long cycles on a single wind, up to 400 days. These clocks were popular as wedding gifts or gifts to mark special occasions. They are relatively simple to repair but can be finicky to set up. The newer quartz clocks are very accurate but do not replace the charm and curiosity of the older mechanical ones.
Some might call them purely decorative.
Tower Clock
Tower clock in Holguin, Cuba
In the early 14th century large mechanical clocks began to appear in the towers of Italian cities. There is no record of any working models preceding these public clocks that were weight-driven and regulated by verge-and-foliot escapements. They are referred to as Turret clocks in the UK.
In conclusion, while there are sub-categories for some of the clocks described above, this overview provides a general understanding of the commonly used terms. Having this knowledge can be especially helpful when shopping for a special gift or identifying the style of clock you may have in your possession.
Mini Ogee by New Haven, the gaps in the door indicate that the front was once veneered and later stripped
This spring driven 30 hour New Haven Ogee clock is a loud ticker and rapid striker so distinctive that I can hear the ticking outside the room it is in like a mischievous puppy who wants to remind you where it is.
Judging from other New Haven clocks I have researched from this period, 1875 seems to be the approximate date of manufacture. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm); a small ogee styled clock some would call a mini.
The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive
The New Haven clock Co. has had a long and illustrious history. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company bought out a competitor’s company, the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand.
In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and is succeeded by Edwin P. Root.
In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returns to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.
The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes have declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960.
Coiled gong – a replacement from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.
This 30 hour New Haven Ogee looks good from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number notable issues. The movement appears original to the case and the case is in fair condition having been reconditioned at one time. Although the sides of the clock are veneered, the veneer on the front has been stripped off presumably because there was too much loss/damage. There is also some veneer loss on the top right side. Crude chisel marks on the left front indicate that the veneer in that area might have been more difficult to strip off. Unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering the front. From a distance it still looks good and the casual observer will hardly know the difference.
The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to the right. I can only surmise that the original gong somehow broke. This gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.
New Haven 30 hour movement, back plate
30 hour movement – front plate showing factory installed oil cups
There are oil sinks on the front but not the back plate. The sinks on the front plate are stamped by the factory and were made to look like a more expensive clock since most would not see the rear plate. An odd decision by the manufacturer but a common practice.
Side view of 30 hour movement showing count wheel and cam wheel
The plates are pinned (rather than the newer bolts or screws) and there are two solid gear wheels suggesting that it is an earlier version of this particular 30 hour movement. The suspension spring and leader are a replacement as expected given the age of the clock. The pendulum bob is a replacement and so is the dial face.
I took the movement from its case, inspected it for wear and applied clock oil. The clock is running well and does not require immediate servicing.
The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive.
30-hour Waterbury Ogee with a beautiful veneered case
This 30 hour Ogee clock was purchased in the fall of 2017. I was eager to add this clock to my collection as it is the one particular style of clock that I do not have. From my research on Waterbury clocks I determined that it was made in or around 1870.
I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling; not ideal but reversible
While the case is in remarkable condition for the age of the clock the movement has suffered the ravages of time.
Simple 30 hour movement, top plate removed
Testing over the course of a day or so revealed that clock would not run for more than a few minutes. The movement was taken out of its case and inspected to determine what needed to be done to get it to running condition.
I expected punch marks and there were a number. In the old days clock-makers would attempt to address pivot wear by closing the pivot holes with a stake or punch. Not ideal but a common practice. Bushing work was definitely required. The pivots, on the other hand, were in very good shape and polished up nicely.
Punching the bushing home
My first task was to address the bushings. Ten bushings were installed, 5 on each plate. The front bushing work included the escape wheel bridge, always a challenging spot to bush. Next I addressed the other serious wear issue – the trundles on all of the lantern pinions.
Lantern pinions on the escape wheel
The trundles on the lantern pinions were in bad shape as you can see in the photo above. The wear seen here was identical on all 4 lantern pinions. Notched trundles were not what I expected.
The trundle work was certainly the most interesting part of the repair. My experience with lantern pinion work is zero. After some research the method I selected was to hand drill through the top shroud to release the worn trundles.
Drilling through the shroud to release worn trundles; I used a smaller bit than the one pictured here
After releasing the worn trundles I used 1.10mm pivot wire which is ideal for this purpose and matched the worn trundles precisely.
Test fitting of pivot wire before the wire is cut to proper length
I began with the fly. I drilled into the top shroud. I then cut 1.10mm pivot wire into the required lengths then rounded the ends with a cut-off disc on a Dremel. After the fly was completed I addressed two more lantern pinions in the same way. I staked the shroud ends to seal the trundles inside.
With three done the escape wheel lantern pinion was next and that is when I ran into a snag. The escape wheel shroud is reversed (see photo below), so I cannot drill into the top shroud without a lot of guess work. Using needle nose pliers I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling. This is not ideal but it is reversible.
There does not appear to be a definitive answer as to whether the trundles should be free-moving or fixed although I suppose they are designed to roll with the gear teeth. At some future point the trundles on this wheel will need to be replaced.
So, how do you get at those trundles?
The clock did not come with a pendulum bob so, a new one was attached. The suspension spring and leader was replaced to address a crimped spring that resulted in a wobbling pendulum bob. I used .09mm suspension spring in the correct length. The clock now runs well and it has completed a number of 30-hour cycles.
I suspect that this will be a clock that will not be run daily, the inevitable hassle of constantly winding a 30 hour clock but I am pleased that it is back in running order and I will ensure that is runs on special occasions.
My hope was that it would be a relatively straight forward exercise
This is Part 1 of servicing this 30 hour Waterbury time and strike movement. I honestly thought it would be relatively straight forward exercise. Dis-assemble, clean the parts, polish the pivots, do a little bushing work and voila! Not so.
I have worked on many clock movements but I have never seen quite the extent of wear that I found on this movement. 150 years certainly takes its toll.
Ogee clock showing replacement pendulum bob
Some time ago I profiled this Ogee clock. To reiterate, in 1839 the first prototype movement was produced for Chauncey Jerome by his brother Noble in Connecticut, USA. Jerome thought that a simple one-day clock could be produced far more cheaply than those with wooden movements at the time. Brass movements were more robust, could be transported easily and were unaffected by humidity. The simple case added to the movement was the Ogee named for its “S” shaped moldings. The success of the Ogee clock convinced other makers that there was money to be made in clock production.
This particular 30 hour time and strike Waterbury Ogee clock was produced at the height of Ogee clock production (1870s) and many thousands were sold. This is a very fine example. Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the case; it is in exceptional condition. The movement, well, that’s another story. This was not a working clock when I got it.
Waterbury clock movement
After disassembling the movement I discovered two things. One, there was evidence that it had been worked on before – as expected. There were punch and stake marks on the movement plates to close pivot holes and there was considerable wear in the lantern pinions.
Front plate has been removed
Four of the wheels have lantern pinions, with 5 trundles apiece. Trundles are the loose wires within the 2 shrouds. Dust and dirt as well as misalignment of wheel and pinion due to worn pivot holes can exacerbate the wear issue. The trundles on all 4 lantern pinions are very worn as you can see in the next two photos. I discovered why this clock does not run. When the gear teeth hits two worn trundles at precisely the right angle it locks the gear and stops the clock.
Worn trundles within lantern pinion
Another wheel with worn trundles within the lantern pinion
Professional clock-makers encounter these issues fairly regularly. Indeed, one of the most common operations in clock repair is replacing bent, broken or worn trundles. There are different methods of performing this service and the method I will employ is to drill into the shroud, extract the worn trundles, cut new ones out of pivot wire, insert them and re-knurl the shroud.
In the meantime bushing work was performed; 10 bushings were installed, 5 on the back plate and 5 on the front, including one on the escape wheel bridge. I re-assembled the movement knowing that the trundles had to be replaced, but despite new bushings the movement ran only marginally better.
Part II (Jan 2nd) details the procedure I followed to replace the trundles in the lantern pinions. Stay tuned.
Why are these clocks so cheap? Discounting the wild prices some seem to be asking on online for-sale sites, a good example can be had for almost nothing. Why? Allow me to explain.
This 30 hour time and strike Waterbury Ogee clock was discovered at an antique store an hour’s drive away. The store has a well-deserved reputation for pricing items for a quick sale and each time we visit there is always a new selection of interesting clocks as well as plenty of other fascinating antiques.
30-hour Ogee clock by Waterbury
Ogee clock, clock design that originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the ogee clock stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were usually made of brass and were made to run for 30 hours or eight days. (Brittanica.com)
The Ogee clock – the beginning
In 1839 the first prototype movement was produced for Chauncey Jerome by his brother Noble in Connecticut, USA. Jerome thought that a simple one-day clock could be produced far more cheaply than those with wooden movements at the time. Brass movements were more robust, could be transported easily and were unaffected by humidity. The simple case added to the movement was the Ogee named for its “S” shaped moldings. The success of the Ogee clock convinced other makers that there was a lot of money to be made in clock production.
My new acquisition
The seller knew nothing about clocks and his only interest was to move the item. The proprietor said it was not working. Just as well, I bought the clock for almost nothing. In my opinion these clocks are terribly undervalued.
It came with a winding crank and both weights but no pendulum. A 2.2oz pendulum bob was later fitted to the movement.
The dimensions are 4 1/4 deep X 15 1/4 wide X 25 3/4 inches high. The clock strikes on the hour to conserve the weight drop. The coiled gong on the Waterbury stamped base is loud, and the striking is frantic.
The movement will run and stay in beat (relatively!) but stops after about 15 minutes. That is to be expected and a thorough servicing is in order. Stake and punch marks throughout the movement tell me that the movement has been worked on more than once.
Ogee clock label shown with a 2.7 oz pendulum, also testing with a 1.7 oz pendulum
The Rosewood veneer is in remarkably good condition though the outside four corners have been compromised. The label is in very good condition with two small pieces missing at the bottom edge and water staining on the right side. The painted zinc dial with Roman Numerals has some flaking and the numbers are somewhat faded but it otherwise looks very good for the age of the clock. Both spade hands and Ogee hands are on similar dials I have seen so I do not know if these are correct/original. The lower reverse painted tablet is silk screened, looks to be marred around the centre area and the entire scene has minor crackling but it is vivid and largely intact.
Veneer in excellent condition
This is a Type 2.411 movement introduced by the Waterbury Clock Co. when Chauncey Jerome worked for them briefly in 1856-1857 after he went bankrupt. Found in Chauncey Jerome-labeled clocks with movement stamped, “C JEROME.” and also stamped “Waterbury Clock Co. CT” in later (1870) Waterbury clocks. This movement has the Waterbury stamp.
Waterbury clock movement
There is a Canadian connection to this movement. The Canada Clock Co. of Whitby, Ontario 1872-76 made 30 hour weight driven, time and strike movements based on an American design. Research indicates that the Collins Brothers (there were three: William, John, and Edward Collins) made a close copy of the OG movement used by the Waterbury Clock Company in Connecticut, a testament to the excellent design of this movement.
Ogee clock top showing cable pulleys
Why are these clocks so undervalued?
The economic collapse of 2008-09 prompted many to sell their clocks and glut the market.
The generation of folks who cherished these clocks are dying off.
The newer generation consider them irrelevant and are not interested in them.
30 hour clocks are a tough sell because of the hassle of winding them daily.
Winding them daily means that most have considerable wear and the cost of repair exceeds the value of the clock
Lastly, many tens of thousands were made so they are not especially rare.
Ten years ago an Ogee in good condition would easily sell for $200 to $300. Today I see prices all over the map but none close to the prices they once commanded.
Expect a report on the servicing of this 30 hour Waterbury Ogee in the weeks to come.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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