Walter Clocks of Toronto: A Nearly Forgotten Chapter in Canadian Clockmaking

_Among Canadian clocks, some names are immediately recognizable — Pequegnat, Canada Clock Company, Hamilton Clock Company, Wesclox from Peterbourough or Seth Thomas and New Haven imports sold through Canadian retailers. Others, however, tell a quieter story. Walter Clocks of Toronto belongs firmly in that second group, yet its history represents one of the last meaningful chapters of traditional clock manufacturing in Canada.

About two years ago, I made an effort to connect with surviving members of the Stonkus family and was able to reach one of Walter Stonkus’s granddaughters, as I recall. I proposed a question-and-answer format, with the intention of later shaping the material into a blog article. Unfortunately, despite a follow-up, I did not receive any further correspondence.

Since then, I have pieced together what information I could from a variety of online sources including The Canadian Clock Museum, located in Deep River, Ontario (Canada). While there are still some obvious gaps in the story, my goal here is simply to provide a general sense of Walter Clocks and their contribution to clockmaking in Canada.

So, let’s begin.

The company was founded by Walter Stonkus, who immigrated to Canada from Lithuania in 1927. Trained originally as a watchmaker, Walter brought with him both mechanical knowledge and European craftsmanship at a time when Canada was still developing its own manufacturing identity. By the early 1930s, the Toronto-based firm operated under the name Walter Stonkus and Sons Clocks.

From the beginning, the company followed a model common among Canadian makers: build the cases locally while sourcing precision movements from Europe.

Walter’s real strength appears to have been in design and cabinetmaking. Clock cases were produced in Toronto, often using walnut veneer before the Second World War, and stained birch in later years. The quality of the clock cases seems almost at odds with the small size of the company. Despite being a modest operation, Walter produced cases of remarkably high quality.

These early clocks typically featured spiral gongs and reflected the popular mantel styles of the era — practical, handsome, and intended for everyday homes rather than grand showpieces. It is also possible, though unconfirmed, that Walter clocks supplied finished cases to the Forestville Clock Co., operating in Toronto, Ontario (Canada) at the same time.

Like many small manufacturers, the company’s progress was interrupted by the Second World War. Production was suspended, largely due to the difficulty of obtaining imported movements and the broader shift of industry toward wartime needs.

When production resumed after the war, the business entered a new phase. Walter’s son Bill joined the company, and several recognizable design features emerged. Postwar clock cases were often made from stained birch, and many models incorporated what became something of a Walter trademark — a round removable back door that allowed easy access to the movement. German-made Urgos movements, both two-train and three train, powered many of these clocks, combining reliable European mechanics with distinctly Canadian cabinetry.

In many ways, Walter Clocks filled an important gap in Canadian horology. After the closure of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company in 1941, very few domestic manufacturers remained. Walter Clocks, along with the Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto, helped carry Canadian clockmaking into the mid-20th century, even as the industry itself was beginning to change.

By the 1950s tastes were shifting. Mantel clocks were no longer the focal point of the living room. Television sets were taking their place, and inexpensive electric clocks were rapidly gaining popularity. Like many traditional makers, Walter Clocks adapted by moving into cuckoo clocks, 400-day clocks, and alarm clocks — products that reflected changing consumer demand. Increasing competition from imported clocks further reduced the viability of local production.

_{Walter Stonkus’s set of Starrett measuring tools}

The company ultimately ceased operations sometime in the late 1950s. The exact year — and the precise reasons for closure — remain uncertain, but Walter Clocks had operated in Toronto for more than thirty years, a respectable lifespan for a small Canadian manufacturer navigating enormous technological and cultural change.

Today, Walter clocks occupy an interesting place for collectors. They are not rare in the sense of limited experimental pieces, nor were they mass-produced in American quantities. They were never a large industrial producer, which explains why surviving examples feel scarce today.

Sadly, relatively few of these clocks survive today, and they seldom appear for sale online. While browsing Facebook Marketplace the other day, I came across one very much like the example pictured below, though fitted with a Westminster chimes movement. It was in poor condition and listed as a non-working, parts clock. Otherwise, it was the first example I have seen come up for sale in quite some time.

The Walter Clock Co. represents something uniquely Canadian: practical craftsmanship, locally built cases, and dependable European movements assembled for everyday households.

For collectors like myself, these clocks serve as reminders that horological history is not only written through grand innovations or famous names. Sometimes it is found in the steady work of immigrant craftsmen who built honest, functional objects meant to live quietly on mantels across the country — marking time for generations of Canadian families.

Discovering a Rare Waterbury Clock in Almonte, Ontario

Almonte, Ontario, (Canada) is a town that practically invites you to slow down and explore, and that’s exactly what my wife and I did one afternoon in September. In fact, it is called “The Friendly Town”. We drifted from one antique shop to another, discovering all sorts of curiosities. But in one store, I found something that stopped me in my tracks—a stately Waterbury time and strike mantel clock. It felt like uncovering a hidden story, and I couldn’t resist bringing it home.

_{There are many antique stores in Almonte, but this is where the clock was purchased}

I was drawn to the open escapement and porcelain dial—features that are relatively rare in a common American clock.

At first glance, it looked intact, but after posting the clock on a popular clock collectors’ website, I was informed that the case appeared to be missing the lower parts of the columns. I asked the poster to supply a photo for comparison. In the meantime, I carefully examined the case myself and did not find any anchor points or residual glue traces that would suggest something had originally been attached there.

However, further research revealed that there were indeed trim pieces under the columns. This photo, taken from the 1909–10 Waterbury Clock catalog, shows the complete clock. You will note that in 1909–10, the clock was listed at $23.00, slightly more than a typical middle-class worker’s weekly wages in 1910.

The clock is called the “Suffolk”, as shown in Tran Duy Ly’s Waterbury book on page 270 (and the catalog photo above). It is cased in Mahogany, has an 8-day movement, and has a half-hour strike with a coiled gong. It has a six-inch “ivory” (porcelain?) dial with spade and spear hands, and a visible or open escapement. It features a cast gilt sash and bezel with convex beveled glass. The clock is tall at 15 1/2 inches and is 11 3/4 inches wide with wooden biscuit feet.

As an aside, Waterbury also produced a Suffolk model in 1891, which is entirely different from this clock.

The poster said that it is also shown in the 1915 catalog. The patent date on the movement plate is September 1898, so it is quite possible that Waterbury offered the movement for this and other models for a number of years.

When I first looked over the movement, I could see it had been well cared for, still showing a bright, clean finish. But then I noticed something odd: the pendulum was hooked directly onto the crutch. That explained everything—of course, the clock wouldn’t run! It was likely this simple issue that led the seller to list it ‘as is,’ and therefore at a better price.

While trying to think of a way to make a new suspension spring and rod, I thought, why not check the bottom of the case? Sure enough, the original suspension spring and rod had been tucked into a crevice at the inside bottom of the case.

_{With the suspension rod attached} _{and the gong in place}

After installing the suspension spring and rod, I wound the movement, gave the pendulum a gentle push, and to my relief, the clock sprang to life. I’m holding off on letting it run too long until I oil the pivots. Once that’s done, I’ll let it run for a while to see if it can make a full 8-day cycle. After that, it will be set aside for proper servicing.

Despite the missing lower trim pieces and the slight chipping around the number 12 on the porcelain dial, it remains a very nice clock and is reasonably well-preserved.

From the tucked-away suspension spring & rod to the moment the pendulum first swung, it reminded me how even the simplest details can make all the difference in getting a clock to run. While it will eventually need a full servicing, seeing it come to life again was a rewarding reminder of why I love collecting and caring for these fascinating pieces of history.

September 22, 2025 4

Your Clock Has Stopped | Follow These First 5 Steps Before Calling A Clock Repairer

There are few things more frustrating for an antique or vintage clock owner than when a favorite clock suddenly stops. Mechanical clocks are intricate machines, but that doesn’t always mean the problem is complicated. In fact, many stoppages are caused by small, simple issues that can be corrected at home without tools or technical expertise.

Before you assume the worst or take your clock to a repair shop, here are 5 things you can do yourself to have your clock ticking again.

1. Is the Clock Wound?

It may sound obvious, but the most common reason a clock stops is simply that it has run down. Spring-driven clocks need their mainsprings wound fully with a key, while weight-driven clocks require the weights to be raised. All mechanical clocks require power to operate. Simply put, if the clock is not wound, it cannot run — so always begin here before moving on to more complex possibilities.

_{Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows)}

2. Is the Clock Level and in Beat?

Pendulum clocks must be in beat to function properly. Being “in beat” means that the tick and tock are evenly spaced in time. If the case is leaning or the crutch (the arm that drives the pendulum) is out of position, the pendulum will quickly stall. Place the clock on a level surface and listen carefully: if the tick and tock sound uneven, adjust the clock slightly to the left or right until the beat evens out. Sometimes, fine adjustments to the crutch are necessary, but often leveling the case is all it takes.

Unless your wall clock is anchored, simply moving the case very slightly left or right and listening for an even beat is all that’s required.

3. Is the Pendulum Free to Swing?

The pendulum is the heart of your clock, and it must swing freely without interference. Check that the suspension spring is straight and properly seated, not twisted or bent. Make sure the pendulum bob is not rubbing against the backboard, striking the chime rods, or touching the bottom of the case. Any sort of rubbing will affect the swing of the pendulum, thereby robbing the clock of power. The smallest obstruction can rob the pendulum of momentum and bring the clock to a halt.

Clocks with a floating balance or a hairspring escapement are popular with some collectors since they continue running even when the surface isn’t perfectly level.

_{A mantel clock movement showing the pendulum}

4. Are the Hands Binding?

Sometimes the problem lies not with the movement but with the clock hands. If the hour and minute hands are rubbing against each other, or if the minute hand is scraping against the dial or the glass, the train can be stopped entirely. If the clock stops at a specific time every 12 hours, hands that are interfering with each other are likely the culprit. Inspect the hands carefully and make sure there is a little clearance between them. A gentle outward bend is usually all that’s needed to free them.

_{Any one of the four hands on this clock can cause interference}

5. Is the Movement Dirty or Dry?

Mechanical clocks rely on clean pivots and fresh oil. Over time, old oil becomes gummy and collects dust, creating friction that will eventually stop the clock. If you notice dry or blackened pivot holes, sticky residue, or an overall grimy look to the movement, then lack of servicing is likely the culprit. Gummed-up oil in the mainspring coils can also cause the springs to appear as if they are glued together. Some people incorrectly refer to this condition as a clock that is “over-wound”.

When I first examine a newly purchased clock that does not run, I carefully release the mainspring’s power and then attempt to run the movement. If it runs, that tells me the mainsprings require servicing. At this point, the clock will need a complete cleaning and oiling by a qualified repairer.

Very dirty movement — _{A very dirty movement}

Conclusion: When Simple Fixes Aren’t Enough

If you have checked these five areas and your clock still refuses to run, the cause is almost certainly deeper and more complex. Worn pivot holes, tired mainsprings, bent teeth, or other mechanical issues may be at fault — problems that cannot be corrected with quick at-home adjustments. A clock movement may appear clean, yet still be quite worn — something you can’t always detect without disassembly.

The good news is that your clock is very likely repairable, but it will require the attention of an experienced clockmaker. By ruling out these simple issues first, you’ll know with confidence when it’s time to seek professional help, and you may just save yourself a service call.

September 15, 2025 2

A Simple Mantel Clock Made by the Blackforest Clock Company

Mention of the Blackforest Clock Company immediately brings to mind the Black Forest region in Germany. However, Blackforest was actually a Canadian clock company founded in 1928 in Toronto, Ontario, by Austrian immigrants Leopold and Sara Stossel.

The company initially imported both clock movements and complete clocks from Germany, marketing them through department stores and jewelry retailers across Canada.

Some clocks were assembled locally at the company’s facility on Wellington Street East in Toronto. Early on, movements—primarily German—were installed in clock cases crafted in house.

However, it is quite possible that Walter Clock Company of Kitchener, Ontario made some of the early clock cases for the Blackforest Clock Company. While definitive documentation is scarce, several Canadian clock historians and collectors have suggested that Walter Clock Co.—a known case manufacturer at the time—supplied wood cases to various Canadian clock assemblers, including Blackforest.These locally made cases were often well-built, showcasing traditional styles like tambour, and buffet clock designs, tailored to Canadian tastes.

As the business evolved, complete mantel clocks were increasingly imported fully assembled from Germany. However, this arrangement was disrupted by the outbreak of the Second World War. In 1941, amid growing anti-German sentiment, the company rebranded itself as the Forestville Clock Company. During wartime, with access to German supply chains cut off, the company sourced its movements from England, the United States, and even France.

By the mid-1950s, Forestville resumed imports from Germany, with Friedrich Mauthe emerging as one of their most significant movement suppliers. These postwar clocks are known for their quality and reliability. Despite their efforts to modernize and diversify, Forestville did not survive much beyond the late 1970s, as inexpensive quartz movements and changing consumer preferences reshaped the clock industry.

With a discussion of the brief history of the company behind us, we now come to my latest acquisition. In all honesty, I couldn’t resist. As I’m currently traveling, a friend kindly picked up the clock for me in Nova Scotia. The price? Just $15. Normally, I would not be interested, but it is an old Canadian clock company, and I have a preference for collecting Canadian-made clocks and those with a strong Canadian connection, and the price was right.

Though the label says it is a ‘chime’ clock, it is actually a time-and-strike (rack and snail) mantel clock, likely made in the mid-1930s, I would say.

Is it perfect? Absolutely not. The case needs a caring touch, and the glass dial bezel is missing. It’s not currently running, but everything is intact, and it should function after a thorough cleaning.

August 5, 2025 0

Top 6 Locations to Avoid for Antique Clock Placement

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron

Antique clocks are more than just timekeepers—they’re pieces of history that deserve thoughtful care and placement in your home. While it’s tempting to display them wherever they look best, some locations can cause serious harm to their delicate movements and finishes.

Knowing where not to place your antique clock is just as important as choosing the right spot. To help preserve their beauty and function for generations to come.

Here are some key areas around your home to avoid.

Around Or Above Door Frames

Avoid placing clocks above or near door frames, especially exterior doors, where vibrations from frequent opening and closing can loosen mounting hardware or cause gradual misalignment. These spots (especially over a door) are also awkward for winding and increase the risk of the clock falling, potentially damaging the clock and causing personal injury

Humid Areas Such As The Kitchen, Especially Above a Sink

Kitchens can be surprisingly harsh environments for antique clocks. Steam, grease, and fluctuating humidity—especially near the sink area can lead to corrosion, warped wood, and sticky build-up in the movements.

As much as an antique clock might look quaint in a bathroom, humidity is not kind to an old wood-cased clock.

On Top Of Appliances Or Anything That Vibrates

Appliances like refrigerators, microwaves, or stereos generate heat and vibrations, both of which can degrade a clock’s mechanical integrity over time by gradually knocking a pendulum out of beat or rhythm, affecting timekeeping accuracy. Vibrations can loosen screws, nuts, or mounts inside the clock mechanism.

These surfaces also tend to collect dust and grease, which can infiltrate the clock case.

High Traffic Areas, Such As Narrow Hallways, Especially For Hanging Clocks

In busy or narrow spaces, hanging clocks are at greater risk of being bumped or brushed against, which can knock them out of beat or even send them crashing to the floor.

Direct Sunlight

Constant sun exposure can fade dials, dry out lubricants, crack finishes, and cause uneven fading or bleaching of wood cases and veneer separation.

Near Heating Vents Or Above Heating Registers

Heat from vents and registers rises and can dry out wood, warp components, and accelerate the breakdown of clock oils, causing veneer separation, shortening the interval between servicing.

Clocks placed above fireplaces or wood stoves are especially vulnerable to heat-related damage. Heat rises directly from these sources, creating a concentrated stream of hot air that can dry out wooden cases, leading to cracking, splitting, or loosening of glued joints and veneer. Placement in these locations can accelerate oil breakdown, leading to increased friction and wear in the movement, shortening the interval between servicing.

Children’s Play Areas

When placing antique clocks in a home, avoid areas where children play. Children’s play areas are prone to bumps, flying toys, and general high-energy activity, all of which pose a risk to delicate and valuable clocks. Even wall-mounted clocks can be accidentally knocked loose if mounted too low or within reach. For safety and preservation, it’s best to keep antique clocks out of rooms dedicated to play or where young children frequently gather.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the right location for your antique clock is about more than just aesthetics—it’s about protecting a valuable clock from the damaging effects of heat, moisture, vibration, and physical impact.

By avoiding areas like above door frames, near heating vents, in kitchens, on top of appliances, and in sunny or high-traffic zones, you help ensure your clock runs smoothly and looks beautiful for years to come. With proper placement, your clock will not only keep time but also continue to tell its own story as a cherished possession.

August 1, 2025 11

Why I Changed My Mind About the Dial Bezel on a Pequegnat Jewel Mantel Clock

After working on the dial of a Pequegnat Jewel mantel clock, I was very pleased with the results of the repaint. While the detailing may not withstand close scrutiny, the clock looks excellent from a comfortable distance.

When I brought the clock home, it appeared that a previous owner, frustrated by the loss of some or most of the paint on the dial, chose not to source a replacement but instead stripped the paint entirely, leaving only the numerals.

_{Photo taken on the day the clock was purchased}

Someone had gone to great lengths to meticulously scrape away all the paint, but the result is far from appealing.

Something Still Troubled Me

I decided to address the missing paint on the dial by repainting it and touching up the numerals, and the results met my expectations.

_{After repainting the dial and retouching the numerals}

It continued to bother me that the glass surround had a brassy gold appearance, while the dial bezel exhibited a bronze-like tone.

Although brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, with variations in composition potentially explaining this difference, I suspect that’s not the case here.

Instead, I believe the glass surround was originally painted gold, as small flakes of paint came off while I was cleaning it with a toothpick and cloth. Should I leave it as-is or match the outer bezel to the inner one? I’d have to think about it—a two-toned dial looked odd.

A Decision Was Made

Since the dial and surround had already been altered, I decided to take it a step further and repaint the inner bezel as well. With the right shade of acrylic paint on hand, I went ahead and tackled the task.

Some might argue that I went too far with the repainted dial and bezel, believing that any changes made to the clock over time are part of its history. However, I don’t share that perspective. To me, a poor repair from the past justifies taking steps to set things right. Leaving a damaged dial on a clock case that is otherwise in near-perfect condition would be a shame.

I have no regrets about my decision—if anything, I’ve now contributed to its history.

By correcting such mistakes, I believe I honour the intent and skill of the original maker. Restoring a clock to a condition closer to its authentic appearance helps preserve its aesthetic value for future generations.

What do you think?

January 17, 2025 8

The Art of Minimal Invasive Clock Preservation

The term minimal invasive intervention refers to the delicate decision-making process regarding how much work should be done to repair, restore, or conserve a clock without significantly altering its original character. It encapsulates a challenge many collectors face: balancing preservation with functionality.

Some argue that any work performed on an antique clock detracts from its value, much like installing new fenders on an antique car. While it may improve appearance or functionality, it might make the piece less desirable to purists. So, at what point does intervention—however well-intentioned—compromise a clock’s value?

When original parts, particularly the movement or key aesthetic features, are replaced with non-original or modern components, the clock often loses collector value. Authenticity is a cornerstone of desirability for collectors. Replacing a worn movement with a reproduction or modern equivalent significantly reduces value, even if it restores functionality.

Excessive restoration, such as refinishing to a like-new condition, can erase the patina, wear, or other marks of age that contribute to the clock’s historical character. Collectors value the evidence of a clock’s journey through time.

Alterations that cannot be undone, such as resizing a case, changing its design, or permanently altering the movement, reduce value. Reversibility is crucial in maintaining collector interest.

Intervention may not compromise value if the repair restores function without altering original materials or craftsmanship. Rebushing and cleaning are interventions but are generally considered acceptable practices.

I always maintain that there should be Respect for Provenance, that is, preserving historical repairs, markings, documentation, and patina when they tell the clock’s story through the ages. In addition, using methods and materials appropriate to the clock’s era maintain authenticity.

Let’s look at some definitions.

Repair, Restoration, and Conservation Defined

Repair involves correcting faults or addressing prior poor repairs, often resulting in changes to a clock’s form or function. Repair in a museum context typically addresses specific problems to restore mechanical function or structural integrity while still respecting the clock’s historical value and authenticity.
Restoration seeks to return the clock to an “as new” condition, sometimes requiring reconstruction of parts of the movement or case. Restoration in a museum context involves returning an antique clock to a state that reflects its original appearance or function, often as close as possible to how it was when first made.
Conservation focuses on preserving the clock in its current state while protecting it from further deterioration. This approach aims to maintain the clock as close to its original condition as possible for as long as possible. Conservation in this context prioritizes maintaining the clock’s historical authenticity and ensuring it can be studied and appreciated by future generations. This approach is guided by principles of reversibility, documentation, and respect for the original materials and craftsmanship. A reversible repair means future conservators can undo them if needed.

Some amount of intervention is often necessary and even desired by collectors, but how much is always a delicate balance.

A Case in Point: 1878 E. Ingraham Huron Clock

_{E Ingraham Hurons were made between 1878 and 1880}

Take, for example, an 1878 E. Ingraham Huron time-and-strike balloon clock from my collection. The 16-inch high rosewood case is remarkably well-preserved for its 146 years, with no breaks, cracks, or missing pieces. The hands, pendulum bob, sash, and bezel hardware are all original, as is the movement. The case has been gently cleaned with soap and water and given a light coat of shellac for protection.

The clock face retains a layer of grime that contributes to its aged character, which I chose to leave untouched. However, the movement has suffered from less-than-professional repairs, likely due to the lack of skilled clockmakers in small-town Nova Scotia (Canada) during the clock’s early life. These repairs include soldered joints and realigned gears with pivot holes drilled directly into the plates—techniques probably applied in the 1940s, when soldering guns became more accessible.

Solder repair on an Ingraham Huron — _{Solder repair on the Huron} _movement

The clock ran for two or three days before stopping, and even nudging the pendulum provides only a temporary fix. On removing the movement from its case, the extent of these invasive repairs becomes more apparent. Even more apparent was the need for a full servicing.

Deciding on the Right Approach

After consulting a certified horologist, we discussed the options: repair, restore, or conserve? He shared an example of a customer’s kitchen clock (or “Gingerbread clock”), a common family heirloom. While these clocks are rarely of high monetary value, they often hold deep sentimental significance.

He typically repairs such clocks but occasionally replaces irreparable movements with period-correct ones—an option acceptable to many owners, but one that collectors generally frown upon and approach I did not care for.

In the case of my Huron, replacing the movement would significantly reduce its value as a collector’s item. Restoring the original movement, however, would maintain its authenticity and desirability. That is the route we took.

Guiding Questions for Intervention

When deciding how to proceed with any antique or vintage clock, I consider the following:

Does undoing damage from a previous poor repair qualify as overly invasive?
If the repair was performed soon after the clock was made and is historically documented (e.g., markings inside the case), should it remain untouched?
Does the poor repair add or subtract from the clock’s historical provenance, making it part of its story?
Would restoring the movement to its original state be considered a repair or a restoration?
Does removing all solder work qualify as a minimally invasive intervention?
Will the repair enhance or detract from the clock’s value?
Would leaving the clock unrestored qualify as conservation?

The poor repair needed to be addressed. I believe that correcting a subpar repair will always restore the clock’s functionality without diminishing its value. Since only minimal work was done on the case and nothing was done to the dial, I would classify this approach as a repair plus conservation.

The Collector’s Dilemma

Collectors often value clocks that remain as untouched as possible. A pristine, unaltered antique clock that runs is exceedingly rare. However, some intervention is inevitable if the goal is to preserve function, as long as it respects the clock’s historical and aesthetic integrity.

In my view, conservation and repair align most closely with minimal invasive intervention and restoration is inherently more intrusive. Deciding how far to go with a clock involves weighing its historical significance, its condition, and your goals as a collector or caretaker.

When I acquire a clock, the first question I ask is: what outcome am I aiming for based on the price I paid? For inexpensive mantel clocks, I’m willing to undertake extensive case repairs, recognizing that a clock purchased cheaply likely won’t gain significant value. However, for more desirable clocks, I adopt a more cautious approach, carefully determining the minimal work needed to restore functionality and enhance the case’s appearance.

I’d like to hear your views on this subject and how you approach this delicate balance!

November 29, 2024

Evolution of Clock Repair: From Tinkerers to Modern Horologists

A collection of clock movements in need of repair

Some time ago, I discussed clock repair in the old days with a horologist acquaintance who completed work on my 138-year-old E. Ingraham Huron mantel clock in my collection. He had just spoken with an 82-year-old friend who spent most of his life in clock repair, reminiscing about how different things were “back in the day.”

I wondered what he meant by “different.” Were things genuinely better in clock repair back then? Let’s take a step back in time.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site — _{E Ingraham Huron}

Imagine a typical Canadian home in the 1920s or 1930s. In those days, a clock was more than just a decorative piece; it was a vital appliance—just like a refrigerator or washing machine.

For most households, clocks were bought for one simple purpose: to tell time. Often, it was the only timekeeping device in the home, especially for working-class families. And although mechanical clocks were not the most accurate, people did not expect them to be precise to the second. As long as the clock was within a minute or two each week, it was more than up to the task.

These clocks were inexpensive, functional, and built to withstand some wear and tear. My own Arthur Pequegnat “Fan Top” kitchen clock, for instance, was sold for $5 when new in 1912—a significant investment when the average worker earned around $12.75 weekly.

Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock — _{Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf “Fan Top” kitchen clock}

Despite the cost, having a clock in the home was essential for various reasons. When a clock inevitably stopped, it needed a quick and affordable repair, often done by a local tinkerer rather than a professional. This could be a tradesperson like a mechanic or handyman. In rural areas like Nova Scotia, Canada, trained horologists were rare, and even when available, their services could be prohibitively expensive.

The local “tinkerers” kept neighbors’ clocks running, relying on basic tools found around the house: a hammer, pliers, a punch, a file, and a screwdriver. In those days specialized tools for clock repair were expensive and hard to come by and only a jeweler could afford such luxury. Tinkerers often used improvised methods; for instance, they might close a worn pivot hole with a punch or, by the 1940s, use a soldering gun to attach a brass piece, creating a new pivot hole when needed.

Cleaning solutions were equally unrefined—soaking movements overnight in gasoline, then oiling them with household oils like motor oil. Reflecting on the cleaning methods of those early tinkerers, the use of gasoline and other flammable solvents to clean clock movements stands out not only for its crudeness but for the inherent danger it posed.

Gasoline was relatively inexpensive and readily available, which made it an attractive option for a low-cost, no-frills clock cleaner. However, using such a volatile substance to clean intricate brass and steel components was not without significant risk.

The workspace for these repairs was often an unheated shed, garage, or basement without proper ventilation, increasing the risk. In these confined spaces, the fumes would linger, building up to dangerous levels. One careless move, and the result could be disastrous, not only for the tinkerer but for anyone in proximity.

The Quick Fix

“Quick fixes” were typically short-term and would eventually lead to further repairs. Still, the customer was satisfied if their clock came back ticking, and they paid only a nominal fee for the service.

These short-term fixes often involved unconventional methods. For instance, rather than replacing worn bushings—small bearings that support moving parts—a tinkerer might use a punch to “close” a pivot hole by pushing the metal back into place. This would hold the pivot for a while, but it also introduced more wear, which would lead to increasingly frequent repairs as the pivot wore down the surrounding material. Other techniques included using adhesives, shims, or rudimentary re-soldering to hold parts together temporarily.

For lubrication, household oils like 3-in-1 were a staple, though they were not formulated for delicate clock movements. These oils would initially help gears move smoothly, but over time, they could become sticky, causing grime to build up and eventually slowing the movement once again. Each time a clock came back for a fix, the tinkerer would apply another short-term solution, usually at little or no cost to the customer, who was primarily concerned with keeping the clock functional.

The cumulative effect of these fixes meant that many clocks would eventually suffer irreversible wear. The gears and pivots would lose their integrity, requiring a complete overhaul if they were to be restored to original condition.

However, it’s worth mentioning that these clocks were not seen as heirlooms or prized possessions; they were utilitarian items. For customers, the reliability and exact timekeeping ability of the clock was not as important as affordability and functionality—if it ticked, it was good enough.

The Emergence of the Electric Clock

In the 1930s, synchronous electric clocks began to replace mechanical ones in homes with electricity. However, in many rural areas, families continued relying on their mechanical clocks, repairing them as needed until electric clocks eventually phased them out.

While many of those old clocks were abandoned, some became cherished family keepsakes passed down through generations.

Today, antique clocks hold a different status; we value their craftsmanship and history. When they need repairs, we use all manner of specialized modern tools—bushing machines, broaches, spring winders, and lathes—to restore them with precision. The result is a repair that lasts, leaving our clocks “better than ever.”

Remembering past tinkers

Yet, it’s important to remember the tinkerers of the past. In their time, they provided an essential service, keeping communities running on time. While we might wince at some of their makeshift repairs and call them “butchers,” those tinkerers were problem-solvers.

Speaking with my friend the horologist helped me better appreciate the humble, practical repairs of the past and the indispensable role these community tinkerers played.

When I encounter a clock with a “homemade” repair, I assess the quality of the work. If the repair, however crude, has stood the test of time, I often choose to leave it as is, recognizing it as part of the clock’s unique history.

Modern Repairs

Clock repair today is a world apart from the makeshift methods used by tinkerers of the past. Modern horologists have access to advanced, highly specialized tools—bushing machines, ultrasonic cleaners, spring winders, precision lathes—that allow them to restore and even improve upon the original functionality of antique clocks. This level of precision would have been unimaginable to the early tinkerers who often relied on a handful of common household tools, improvising as they went along.

Olie Baker spring winder. Cleaning the strike side mainspring — _{Olie Baker spring winder}

For them, a hammer, screwdriver, file, and eventually a soldering iron were the core of their toolkit. These tools were not intended for delicate clockwork but were adapted out of necessity, resulting in quick fixes rather than long-lasting repairs.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{Enlarging a hole with Bergeon bushing machine}

The philosophy behind clock repair has also evolved dramatically. Modern repairs focus on preserving the integrity of the clock, respecting the craftsmanship of its original makers. Each repair is a detailed process, and the goal is longevity. Modern techniques consider the clock’s historical value, aiming to keep its character intact while ensuring that it runs smoothly for years. This contrasts with the approach of early tinkerers, who were less concerned with historical value and more focused on getting the clock running again as quickly and affordably as possible.

Materials and cleaning methods today are specifically formulated for delicate clockwork. High-quality brass bushings, synthetic clock oils, and non-flammable cleaning agents protect the movement and prevent unnecessary wear. In the past, tinkerers often resorted to materials that were easily accessible but not ideal for clock repair. These methods may have restored basic function, but they often led to increased wear over time, necessitating further repairs and eventually compromising the clock’s condition.

In the early 20th century clock repairs were practical, unrefined, and performed with whatever was on hand. On the other hand, modern horologists have become part conservators, honoring the original makers by using high-quality techniques that preserve each clock as a historical artifact.

Modern horologists can train extensively, gaining a nuanced understanding of clock mechanics and restoration practices. Tinkerers, on the other hand, were often self-taught, relying on trial and error, observation, or advice from others. Many of them fixed clocks in their spare time, making do with limited resources and no formal training. Their skills were functional, focusing on keeping clocks ticking within the practical constraints of everyday life.

Today, when a clock is restored, we think of it as honoring history, a far cry from the “just make it tick” mindset of the past. Both approaches, however, share a common thread: a dedication to keeping time alive.

November 8, 2024

Dandy by Pequegant | An Affordable, Everyday Clock

I recently added two more Pequegnat clocks to my collection: the Hamilton Tall which you can read about here and the Danby model, which I will be profiling in this article. This brings my total to 12 Arthur Pequegnat clocks.

Let’s start with some background on the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. and its significance in Canadian clockmaking.

The Pequegnat Clock Company, founded by Swiss immigrant Arthur Pequegnat in 1904 in Kitchener, Ontario (then Berlin), operated until 1941. Initially a jewelry shop, Pequegnat expanded into bicycle manufacturing in 1897. However, as demand for bicycles declined, he shifted to clockmaking, utilizing his existing plant for producing clock movements. The company’s motto, “Buy Canadian – Pequegnat clocks are better than foreign-made ones,” appealed to Canadian consumers.

Pequegnat initially sourced wooden clock cases from local furniture makers before producing its own, earning a reputation for high-quality, reliable clocks in various designs, including wall, mantel, and hall clocks. Unfortunately, the brass shortage during the Second World War signaled the end of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co.

The Danby

While the Hamilton Tall is considered a prestigious parlour clock, the Danby occupies the opposite end of the spectrum. This is reflected in its auction price, making it one of the least expensive Pequegnat clocks I have purchased.

According to the general definition of a mantel clock, the Danby can be classified as a shelf clock. It measures 4.5″ x 21″ x 9.5″, with its movement housed in a walnut veneered case.

The Danby was directly competing with an influx of mantel clocks from American companies, and to remain competitive, they must have sold it with minimal profit margins and this is reflected in its build quality.

While some of the last Danbys showcased an Art Deco dial, this particular model features the simpler tin painted dial. Notably, the name “Pequegnat” is positioned one-third of the way up from the center arbor on the dial face. At that time, thanks to its brand recognition, it wasn’t necessary to display the entire company name on the dial.

Additionally, the movement lacks a regulating feature, so to adjust the clock’s speed, you must change the length of the pendulum bob. In short it is as simple as it gets for a Pequegnat 8-day time and strike clock. Notably, it has a tuned rod gong which would have been considered an upgrade.

A common feature of Pequegnat movements is their nickel-plated front and back plates, which provided a polished, attractive finish that appealed to customers.

Initially, the Pequegnat Clock Company used steel plates for their clock movements but transitioned to brass plates. Steel plates were more prone to rust and corrosion, while brass offered better resistance and was easier to machine, making it a more suitable choice for clockmaking. Pequegnat continued to nickel-plate the movements to enhance the clock’s perceived quality.

Numerous Pequegnat models were produced over the extended period from 1904 to 1941, making it difficult to determine the exact manufacturing dates for specific clocks. However, I feel confident in stating that this clock was made in the months leading up to the closing of the factory in 1941.

Overall Condition of the Case

The case is dark walnut veneered, which was a common practice for “everyday” clocks during the pre-war period. This construction method helped reduce production costs. It’s also possible that by this time, Pequegnat had resumed the practice of outsourcing their cases as there were several companies in Toronto, notably Walter Clocks and the Blackforest Clock Co. that produced cases for clock movements imported from England, Germany and France.

The case has been refreshed, and aside from requiring a cleaning, it looks presentable. However, the dial is in rough condition, with both the numerals and the surface having faded from wear and tear. I may touch up the numerals with black paint but there is not much I can do about the face itself.

I’m uncertain about the dial bezel; it should be brass but has a more copper-like colour. The bezel did not age well given the amount of tarnishing.

There is a good label, but it isn’t attached to the case. I may tape it to the inside of the door, as gluing a label with impregnated oil on wood is challenging.

The Plan

I have several other movements to work on before I can get to the Danby, which may remain on the back burner for a few months.

In the meantime, I noticed an issue right away: the center arbour cam hangs on the “J” hook, forcing it against the time side mainspring, which stops the clock. It won’t release unless I advance the minute hand. The movement will need to be completely disassembled to reposition the hook, but that will have to wait for another day.

October 8, 2024

Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik | Servicing an 8-day Countwheel Strike Movement – Part I

Among clock collectors and admirers, the Hamburg American Clock Company is a well-known German company. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU and in many parts of the world, it is simply known as HAC.

_{Time and strike mantel clock, shown without the crown} _{and as purchased}

About the Company

The company was formed in Germany in 1873 by Paul Landenberger and Phillipp Lang. Originally called Landenberger and Lang, it became the Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik in 1891. The company was very active from 1885 onward, became a cooperative in the mid-1920s, and eventually merged with Junghans, one of the world’s largest clock companies, in 1930.

Original investors insisted that “American” be in the company name but “American” also refers to the manufacturing system adopted from America. The name of the company adds confusion to the novice repair person who might assume that what they are working on is an American-made clock.

HAU adopted the cross arrows as their trademark in 1892, and it became synonymous with the brand.

In 1925, a few years before its merger with Junghans, the company had a workforce of 2,200 individuals. Junghans remains a successful and thriving company today, specializing in high-end watches.

Condition of Case and Remarks

The case is in very good condition but was missing the crown when I purchased the clock in 2021. Since then, I have sourced a crown, and based on the research I have conducted online, it appears to be the correct “topper” for this clock.

_{A crown was sourced} _{and it definitely improves the look}

The dial face is in good condition and shows some wear but not like the heavily worn dials I have seen on similar HAC clocks.

A commemorative brass plaque at the base reads: “The Rev. J. H. Cox Chyndale Wes’ Church Aug. 1926.” I assume this church is in the UK, but my online search yielded no information about this person. However, this inscription helps date the clock to no later than 1926. It is possible the clock may have been on a retailer’s shelf for several months or even up to a year or more before that date.

The Movement | Notes and First Steps in Servicing

In typical HAC fashion, the movement is robust and compact and it is a countwheel strike. The spring barrels are capped in the usual manner but feature four holes that make the mainspring visible. Earlier HAC movements had fully enclosed barrels—perhaps a cost-saving measure to use less brass! Otherwise, everything else is standard HAC.

Four nuts hold the movement plates. Once separated I removed the parts and divided the time and strike wheels.

Take careful note of two wires protruding from the rear plate. They act as tension springs, one for the strike hammer and on the opposite side of the movement, another for the lifting lever. These can easily break off, so handle the movement with care.

After disassembling the movement, it was cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. My aim wasn’t to achieve the shiniest brass possible but to ensure the brass and steel parts were thoroughly cleaned. There was some rust on two movement posts, which I removed using emery cloth. All parts were thoroughly dried.

The process may vary, but I moved on to polishing the pivots next. Since pivots are quite delicate, especially the fly, it’s important to handle them with care. Avoid applying excessive pressure on the pivot when using a metal lathe for polishing.

_{Polishing a pivot with an emery board}

I know some repairers prefer to avoid servicing mainsprings due to the difficulty of extracting them. However, it is essential to do so for several reasons. Clean and lubricated mainsprings ensure consistent power, enhancing the clock’s accuracy and performance. Additionally, it provides an opportunity to inspect for defects, cracks, and rust and replace them if necessary.

Once cleaned and lubricated, the springs are returned to their barrels using a spring winder such as the one made by Olie Baker.

Mauthe Horse Crown spring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder — _{Spring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder, with an appropriately sized collar ready to be inserted in the barrel to extract the spring}

Since brass is softer than steel pivots one should expect some wear on the bushing holes. There are parts of a clock movement that exhibit more wear than other parts.

For instance, the wheels that spin the fastest are often the areas that show the most bushing wear but wear can show up in other places as well. I noticed punch marks on the cap side of each mainspring barrel. While punching around any bushing hole is generally poor practice, it appears this was done at some point in the clock’s history and can’t be reversed. Nonetheless, the repair seems to have held up well.

Next Steps

After inspecting and cleaning the movement, and polishing the pivots, the next step is to install new bushings. In my next article, I will focus on this process, along with the reassembly and testing of the movement.

September 27, 2024

Three Canadian Antique Clocks Won at Auction

About a year ago, I shifted my focus to collecting clocks made in Canada or those with a Canadian connection. Of course, there are exceptions if a particularly interesting clock comes along. In keeping with my goal, I won three Canadian clocks this week at auction: an Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton “Tall”, an Arthur Pequegant Dandy, and an ogee crafted by the Canada Clock Company of Ontario. All are shelf or mantel clocks. Two are spring-driven while the third is powered by weights.

Since the bidding was online, I don’t have the clocks yet, but I expect them to arrive within the next week or so.

Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton “Tall“

I’m not sure what inspired me to take a photo of the Hamilton during my visit to The Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario this past summer—but I did! Maybe it was a secret wish to own one someday.

The clock I photographed features a piecrust dial, while the one I won at auction has a plain dial. Both styles were available in the early 1900s.

_{Auction photo http://www.harrisandsonsauctions.com/}

The Arthur Pequegnat Hamilton “tall” shelf clock is a classic piece from one of Canada’s most renowned clockmakers. Named after the city of Hamilton, Ontario, this model is part of Pequegnat’s line of shelf and mantel clocks and showcases the craftsmanship that made the company famous.

The Hamilton “Tall” features a distinctive upright design, making it stand out among other Pequegnat clocks. It had either a piecrust or plain dial (as I mentioned), adding to its collectible nature. The clock is typically housed in a sturdy wooden case often made with quarter-sawn oak, with half columns and capitals, an attractive crown, making it a simple yet elegant style.

The Hamilton “Tall” features an 8-day time and strike movement with distinctive nickel-plated movement plates, powered by a spring-driven movement. It strikes on both the hour and half-hour.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, founded in 1903, was one of the few successful clock manufacturers in Canada, with the Hamilton model being one of its many iconic designs. As Pequegnat clocks were made exclusively in Canada (Berlin, later Kitchener, Ontario), they hold significant value for Canadian clock collectors, and owning a Hamilton “tall” shelf clock is like holding a piece of Canadian horological history.

It’s often challenging to determine a clock’s condition from auction photos, but this one seems to be in good shape. Unfortunately, it lacks a label, which is a minor disappointment.

Arthur Pequegnat Dandy

The Dandy is a compact and attractive mantel clock, featuring a solid wooden case, often crafted from oak. The case design is simple yet elegant, with clean lines and minimal ornamentation, giving it a classic, timeless appeal. The dial is plain with black Arabic numerals, making it easy to read.

The Dandy is also powered by an 8-day time and strike spring-driven movement. It strikes the hour and the half-hour. The movement is well-known for its durability and precision, hallmarks of Pequegnat craftsmanship.

Although not as grand as some of the larger models like the “Hamilton,” it has its own charm, particularly for collectors who appreciate smaller, more understated clocks.

From the auction photos, I can tell the clock is in average condition, which is reflected in the relatively low price I paid for it.

Canada Clock Company 30-hour ogee with Alarm

The Canada Clock Company’s 30-hour ogee clock is a significant piece in the history of Canadian clockmaking. The ogee clock design itself was popular in North America during the 19th century, and the Canada Clock Company produced their own version during their brief existence.

The ogee clock is named for its case design, which features the distinctive “S” or double curve molding along the front, giving it an elegant and classic appearance.

The Canada Clock Company’s ogee clocks were typically made with wooden cases, often finished in mahogany or rosewood veneer. The clock has a large rectangular face, featuring Roman numerals, and a clear glass lower panel that reveals the pendulum.

This model is equipped with a 30-hour movement, which means it needs to be wound daily. The movement is powered by weights, which descend slowly as the clock runs. The clock only strikes the hour. The use of a 30-hour movement made this a more affordable option for consumers at the time compared to clocks with 8-day movements. This clock also has an alarm feature.

The auctioneer advised that there is an issue with the coil or rod gong, something I will look into once I receive the clock. The case, I am told, has been refinished.

The Canada Clock Company operated in Ontario during the 1870s and early 1880s. It was one of Canada’s first significant clock manufacturers, aiming to compete with the American clock industry. Although the company’s existence was short-lived, their clocks are highly valued by collectors today for their historical importance and their role in establishing Canadian clockmaking. The 30-hour ogee clock is a prime example of a typical mid-19th-century clock that found its way into many Canadian homes.

It was a very successful auction day. For each clock, my wife and I adhered to our strategy of setting a maximum bid well beforehand, which helped us secure all three pieces effectively.

In sum, the Hamilton is a classic shelf clock with a distinctive upright design, a quarter-sawn oak case. Though lacking a label and with condition difficult to assess from photos, it appears to be in good shape.

The Dandy is a compact mantel clock with a simple, elegant oak case and plain dial. Its condition is average, reflecting the modest auction price.

The 30-hour Ogee is a classic 19th-century ogee clock with “S” curve molding and a 30-hour movement. It features an alarm and has a refinished case, with a noted issue with the gong.

Each clock adds a unique piece of Canadian horological history to my collection.

September 13, 2024

The Myth of Over-Winding: Clarifying a Common Misconception

In the fascinating world of horology, many terms and expressions are often misunderstood or misused. A classic example is the frequent confusion between the words “mantel” and “mantle” to describe certain types of clocks. While “mantel” refers to a shelf over a fireplace, “mantle” is something you wear, like a cloak.

Another pervasive myth is the notion of “over-winding” a clock. How many times have you heard, “It was running fine until I over-wound it”? This phrase is commonly found on clock forums, Facebook groups, and among enthusiasts. However, attributing clock malfunctions to over-winding is a misunderstanding of how clocks operate.

_{American time and strike clock movement}

While it is technically possible for a mainspring to be damaged by excessive tightening—winding it until it’s tight and then continuing to wind it further—this is not the primary cause of most clock failures. The real issues often stem from different sources.

Consider the spring barrel, as shown in the photo below.

When the spring is wound, it coils tightly around the winding arbor, with the other end hooked to a small stud inside the barrel. This hook can become fatigued over time due to repeated excessive winding or the riveted stud can break free, but this is not the typical cause of a clock stopping.

In American open mainspring clocks, what appears to be “over-winding” is often a result of old oil, rust, and dirt accumulating in the mainspring coil. These contaminants can cause the coil to stick and seize somewhat like the action of an adhesive, making it “seem” as though the clock is “over-wound.”

When I receive a clock that is said to be “overwound”, I use a let-down tool to release the mainspring partially or completely, apply mainspring oil generously, and then rewind the clock. This step will help in some cases, but it’s important to note that it doesn’t replace a thorough cleaning or address other potential issues that might be causing the clock to stop.

Disassembling the movement and removing the mainspring allows for a proper inspection. Dirt and old oil can be cleaned, light rust can be removed with emery paper or steel wool, and heavy rust necessitates the replacement of the mainspring. The spring should also be checked for cracks or breaks. Often, a mainspring in good condition can be salvaged with proper care even if there are minor problems with the connecting section of the spring.

I frequently reuse mainsprings in my clock repairs, as long as they are not “set.” A mainspring is considered “set” when it has developed permanent deformations or has lost its original flexibility and strength due to repeated use or overstressing. In such cases, reusing the mainspring compromises the clock’s reliability and shortens its operational cycle.

When a mainspring is “set,” I typically replace it to ensure the clock functions optimally and to avoid potential issues. If I were operating a clock repair business, I would replace the mainsprings as a standard practice and pass the cost onto the customer.

_{“C” clamps used to contain the power of the mainspring}

Another potential issue is the click mechanism. In some clocks, such as those made by Sessions for example, the click rivets can become fatigued and fail. Inspecting and repairing/replacing this component is a common procedure in clock servicing.

When buying a new clock, do not assume it has been recently serviced unless the seller can confirm it. If there’s no assurance of recent servicing, plan to have the movement serviced as soon as possible either by yourself or a competent professional.

Regular maintenance is crucial for any mechanical clock to ensure its longevity and proper function.

“Over-winding” is a myth that often misguides clock enthusiasts. The real causes of clock issues are typically related to dirt, old oil, or mechanical wear, not the act of winding the clock. Understanding this can help in better troubleshooting and maintaining your cherished antique or vintage clock.

September 3, 2024

The Pequegnat Jewel and the Simcoe – similar yet subtly different

The newest addition to my collection of Pequegant clocks is the Jewel. That marks a total of nine Pequegnat clocks in my modest collection. I was not actively seeking a new clock. In fact, I haven’t purchased one in months, and mantel clocks weren’t even on my radar.

_{Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe, note the legs and side details}

I bought the Simcoe (above) in 2018 from a shop in Victoria, British Columbia (Canada) and I think, at the time, I paid close to $200 for it. I located the Jewel in an antique shop about 20 minutes from where I live. I recognized it almost instantly, even though it was placed on a shelf nearly out of my reach.

The Jewel’s price was significantly lower so, why pass it up?

_{Was the seller confused about the maker?}

The two clocks boast strikingly similar case designs. In fact, the dimensions of the quarter-sawn oak case are identical, although the Simcoe model is slightly taller due to its corner feet and wider due to the addition of lion-head handles on each side. Both contain the same 8-day time and strike movement.

Pequegnat Jewel time and strike mantel clock

Made in Canada before 1916, this clock has an 8-day, spring-driven time and strike movement with signature Pequegnat nickel-plated plates. Initially, I thought there might be brass bushing inserts on steel plates. However, upon passing a magnet over the plates, I discovered that the plating was not on steel but on brass. Plating over brass may not be the most practical solution, but aesthetically, it offers a pleasing appearance.

Although the movement bears the stamp “The Arthur Pequenat Clock Co., Berlin, Canada” there is no maker’s name typically found on the lower section of the dial face, a peculiarity I’ll delve into shortly.

Pequegnat Simcoe dial face — _{Simcoe dial with cracked and lifting paint}

Both “Berlin” Simcoe and Jewel models feature pie-crust dials, setting them apart from later clocks with plain brass bezels.

Why are they called “Berlin” clocks? In 1916, the town of Berlin, Ontario faced considerable backlash due to the ongoing war in Europe, with its name being associated with the enemy of the time. These wartime tensions prompted the town to undergo a name change to Kitchener, Ontario. While Pequegant clocks lack a specific date stamp, the town’s name change serves as a useful reference point for dating these clocks. The company had a relatively short lifespan, being founded in 1903 and ceasing production in 1941.

Showing the time and strike movement of the Pequegnat Jewel — _{Jewel movement}

The case is in excellent condition but I was drawn to the dial immediately. Something is certainly amiss. At first, I suspected the dial had been replaced, but upon closer examination, I realized that a previous owner had scraped off the paint from the dial, leaving the numbers intact. It’s not unexpected. With time, the paint on these dials tends to degrade, and it’s likely that it had deteriorated to such an extent that the decision was made to remove it altogether.

Should I overlook this issue and simply accept it as is, or address it by repainting the dial?

Paint scraped from the Jewel dial — _{Paint scraped from the dial}

The most interesting aspect of this clock is the price. Although antique clock prices have been depressed in the last several years, Canadian-made Pequegnat clocks seem to hold their value quite well. A quick perusal of auction sites reveals that realized prices for the Jewel hover between $100 and $250 with the Berlin-made clocks commanding a higher price.

While the movement, unfortunately, does not run, based on my experience with other Pequegnat clocks in my collection, I suspect it may be gummed up with dirt and could potentially require a bushing or two to have it run as it should.

A worthwhile acquisition at an excellent price point.

April 23, 2024

My 10-year NAWCC member pin arrived today

As I opened the package from the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) and found the enclosed lapel pin it dawned on me that I’d been a member of the organization for a whole decade.

Being a member of NAWCC has proven to be an excellent choice for me, and I believe other enthusiasts of watches and clocks would also benefit greatly from joining. Here are some reasons why.

By joining NAWCC, or any clock and watch association/club for that matter, you become part of a vibrant community of like-minded individuals who share your passion for watches and clocks. Networking with fellow collectors can provide valuable insights and advice. The organization often hosts events, meetings, and conventions where you can connect with others who share your interests.

NAWCC offers a wealth of educational resources for members. This includes access to publications, online forums, workshops, and seminars covering various aspects of horology, from history to repair and maintenance techniques. Whether you’re a novice or a seasoned collector, there’s always something new to learn, and NAWCC provides the resources to expand your knowledge and skills.

In fact, nearly every day, I receive mail and sometimes the questions initially stump me, prompting me to delve into specific areas using the resources only available to NAWCC members and I usually gather enough information for an informed reply.

While joining the NAWCC is complimentary, and participation on the message board or forum is also free, members can tap into further advantages, including monthly newsletters/bulletins and research resources, through an annual subscription fee.

Within NAWCC, one has access to a network of experts and professionals in the field of horology. Whether you need advice on authenticating an antique clock or watch, restoring a family treasure, or understanding the intricacies of a specific movement, you can tap into the collective expertise of the organization’s members through the Forum site.

_{NAWCC forum site, registration is free}

Many organizations like NAWCC partner with suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers in the horology industry to offer exclusive discounts and special offers to their members. These discounts may apply to purchases of watches, clocks, tools, books, and other related products and services. By joining NAWCC, you can take advantage of these benefits to save money on your collecting pursuits.

_{NAWCC sponsored clock mart, clocks and watches for sale plus access to suppliers}

NAWCC plays a vital role in documenting, conserving, and sharing knowledge about the history, and craftsmanship of clocks and watches. NAWCC helps ensure that future generations continue to appreciate and understand the cultural and technological importance of watches and clocks.

It might sound like a commercial promotion for NAWCC but for me, NAWCC offers not only personal benefits in terms of community, education, and resources but also contributes to the broader mission of preserving and celebrating the art and science of horology.

March 29, 2024

Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik: The Clock Company with an Alias

This article traces the historical journey of a significant German clock manufacturer, ultimately absorbed by the Junghans Clock and Watch Company in the late 1920s. After providing a brief overview of its history, the article will delve into the specifics of the clock movement that is next on my workbench.

_{HAC 14 day time and strike, a relative’s clock}

HAC trademark, crossed arrows — _{HAC trademark}

HAU adopted the cross arrows as their trademark in 1892, and it became synonymous with the brand.

In 1925, a few years before its merger with Junghans, the company had a workforce of 2,200 individuals. Junghans remains a successful and thriving company today, specializing in the production of high-end wristwatches.

Before I embark on servicing a clock from my collection, I make an effort to gather information about the clock’s history. If details about the clock prove elusive, my fallback is to delve into the broader history of the company behind it.

Two Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik clocks

The two HAC clocks in my collection are mantel or shelf clocks.

The clock pictured above was acquired several years ago.

_{HAC clock movement, with solid backplate}

It has an earlier version of a HAC production movement because of the solid front and backplates. It is quite possible that this clock was made in or around 1900 or a little later.

_{HAC clock movement with solid front plate}

Now, turning our attention to the second HAC clock in my collection, the one I will be working on next. The clock was acquired about two years ago from a clock collector in Ottawa, Ontario. The previous owner knew nothing about the clock but a plaque on the clock case gives a glimpse into the clock’s history.

This clock is a later production model because of the construction of the plates which I will explain further.

HAC clock number #2, model unknown, a later production — _{HAC clock number #2, model unknown, with a dedication plaque}

While the wheel positions, levers, and movement size remain identical, there exists a noticeable difference between the two clock movements as can be seen by the solid front and back plates on the first clock movement and the various cutouts in the front and the back of the second movement.

_{Open plate, a later production movement}

The use of open plates typically indicates a cost-saving decision made by the company. This choice is often driven by the aim to reduce manufacturing expenses by minimizing the amount of brass used in a movement.

HAC clock #2, #36 movement — _{HAC #2 movement}

Aside from the four brass mounting straps and the slight difference in the positioning of one “V” shaped lever springs, HAC movement #2 has all the characteristics of the #36 movement pictured below.

_{No. 36 HAC time and strike clock movement}

The story of two clocks made at different times in the company’s history is both captivating and compelling.

And finally, who is The Rev. J.H. Cox? A search online reveals nothing at this point.

Before concluding that the clock was manufactured in 1926, it’s important to note that relying solely on plaques for dating may not always be accurate. The clock might have spent time on a retailer’s shelf, or it could have been acquired second-hand, introducing questions as to its actual production date. However, there is a 5,25 number on the upper left of the back plate which might be a date code. HAC was known to have begun dating their movements in the 1920s.

Now, on to servicing the clock movement the details of which will be covered in a forthcoming post.

March 22, 2024

Trouble Strikes Thrice: The Notion of Bad Luck in Threes

The belief that bad luck happens in threes is a common folk belief that suggests that if you experience one bad event or stroke of bad luck, two more are likely to follow in quick succession. While this adage is not grounded in any scientific or empirical evidence, it has persisted for years.

In this blog post, I will recount a series of unfortunate events I’ve experienced with one specific clock, a German-made mahogany-cased Junghans Hansruck time and strike mantel clock from the latter part of 1913.

While my bad luck didn’t unfold rapidly it seems that I was destined to have problems with this clock from the outset.

_{Junghans Hansruck time and strike mantel clock when first received}

Some time ago, I purchased the clock through an online auction. Emerging as the successful bidder, I arranged for the clock to be shipped to my location. It arrived intact and undamaged.

Setback Number One

After unpacking the clock, I immediately set out to test its functionality. I wound up both the strike side and the time side, ready to set the correct time when the minute hand unexpectedly snapped off. It wasn’t an ideal beginning, to say the least. While the minute hand was repairable, it added another layer of frustration to contend with.

Okay, I can deal with the hand later. Back to the clock. The clock wasn’t working after all, but a good cleaning and addressing any wear issues should get it running again.

Showing the face of a Junghans mantel clock and the repaired minute hand — _{Soldered minute hand}

I managed to solder the hand and put it aside while I addressed the movement.

Setback Number Two

I serviced the movement, reassembled it, and placed it on the test stand. It ran smoothly for a few days on the time side, but the strike side had issues. While investigating the malfunction I identified a small stamped metal part on the movement had bent. In an attempt to straighten it, I inadvertently applied too much force, causing the piece to snap off. I’ll call the part an actuator.

The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The actuator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.

On the center arbor is a star cam. The 2 points on the star cam rotate every 30 minutes until a star point pushes the strike actuator to begin the strike sequence. A protruding piece of metal, the contact piece for the star point on the actuator, is the part that broke as I was attempting to unbend it.

Soldered piece above the centre cannon on a Junghans Hunruck movement.. — _{Soldered actuator}

As the actuator does not apply much pressure on the lever above it, soldering should do the trick. Back to more soldering.

The actuator is repaired and the hand has been soldered. Both are functioning like new and the movement is running well on the test stand.

Setback Number Three

Satisfied that everything was working correctly after the testing phase and the movement was keeping good time I then proceeded to mount the movement into its case.

Here’s how I think the third mishap occurred.

When mounting the movement into its case, I positioned the case glass side down without any padding. My attempts to secure the movement into the case might have inadvertently stressed the dial glass, leading it to break. I didn’t hear the crack, and the second possibility is that it occurred earlier, possibly getting kicked accidentally on the floor next to my desk.

The bottom line is, that the glass is now cracked, necessitating either replacing it or salvaging the dial bezel from another clock. I don’t suppose anyone has a magical resin that will hide the crack.

I thought so!

Cracked dial glass on a Junghans mantel clock — _{Cracked dial glass}

Most errors in clockwork are fixable, but a damaged dial glass is an exception—it cannot be repaired.

Cracked glass aside it is a very nice clock and it runs well.

Are setbacks a good thing?

I don’t often publish my mistakes but in the spirit of transparency and the unpredictable nature of clock restoration, it seems fitting to share this series of setbacks with my audience.

So, does bad luck happen in threes? From a statistical perspective, events occurring in threes are not more likely than any other numerical pattern but it happened.

Setbacks are a natural part of the process and should not deter anyone from passionately pursuing a hobby they love. Not every restoration or service of a clock goes according to plan and it’s normal to face unexpected issues when restoring or servicing clocks that are over 100 years old.

Yes, of course, there are lessons learned. But it just seems very strange that all of this happened to me with this one clock.

February 13, 2024

Wrapping up the servicing of a Seth Thomas type 89 movement

Seth Thomas is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history, and they produced a variety of clock movements over the years. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas between 1900 and 1938.

Seth Thomas mantel clock from the 1930s — _{Seth Thomas mantel or shelf clock}

The mantel clock in question features the Type 89 movement. Acquired in the summer of 2023, this clock boasts a simple and straightforward design.

In the first part of this two-part series, I discussed the disappointments I encountered with the clock’s case.

Seth Thomas type 89 movement showing dirt and rust — _{Seth Thomas type 89 movement, dirty and rusty}

The focus then shifted to the disassembly process and my examination of the widely-used Seth Thomas Type 89 clock movement.

My observations highlighted a replaced mainspring on the strike side, the necessity for bushing work, and indications of rust, all of which posed challenges that I committed to addressing in subsequent stages such as cleaning, bushing, oiling, and reassembly.

The focus of this blog post is the completion of servicing of this type 89 clock movement.

The front plate of a type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Front of the type 89 movement} _{before disassembly}

Cleaning of the mainsprings

There is always the temptation to do nothing with the mainsprings if they look acceptable. However, cleaning the mainsprings is an essential part of clock servicing. Uncoiling and wiping the dirt and grime from the mainsprings with a cloth is the preferred method, but cleaning them with an ultrasonic cleaner is also an option.

In Part I, I cleaned the mainsprings in my ultrasonic cleaner and provided a rationale for this decision. Before I go any further, I’d like to emphasize a crucial point regarding the cleaning of mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner. This practice is not recommended and should only be considered as a last resort.

While cleaning mainsprings in an ultrasonic cleaner has little impact on the surfaces or mechanism of the cleaner itself the oil removed from the mainsprings generates a black liquid that contaminates the cleaning solution, rendering it ineffective for future use.

_{Seth Thomas type 89 mainsprings, note the replacement spring on the right}

Clamps have been applied to secure the mainsprings after oiling, and they’ve been set aside. Now, we move on to the next step: the bushing phase.

The back plate is removed on a type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Backplate removed}

Bushing the movement

As the movement is fully disassembled this is the stage where bushing work can be done.
I commend individuals who choose to bush by hand, but personally, It is not for me.

Various systems exist for bushing, with KWM and Bergeon being the two most widely adopted. It’s worth noting that neither system is inherently superior to the other, as preferences tend to vary among enthusiasts. When referring to a “system,” it’s important to understand that the bushings from one system are not interchangeable with those from the other.

That said I use the Bergeon system.

Bergeon 6200 Bushing Machine — _{Bergeon Bushing Machine}

Before bushing, I identify all the locations requiring attention and mark them with a Sharpie. There is no permanent mark as rubbing alcohol will easily remove all traces of ink.

I have an excellent assortment of bushings and have all the required ones for this project.

An assortment of Bergeon bushings, assortment #5488 — _{An assortment of Bergeon bushings, #5488}

Using cutters each hole is drilled out and chamfered, that is, removing the sharp edges to allow the pushings to be pressed in smoothly. As I insert each new bushing I test the fit by assembling the wheels to check how freely they move. This allows me to make small adjustments in the event the pivot is too tight in the bushing hole.

Cutting into the bushing hole with Bergeon bushing machine — _{Cutting into a brass plate}

Based on my initial assessment, the bushings for both the front and back plates of the escape wheel were the most worn. The next new bushing is the fourth wheel front plate, the one adjacent to the escape wheel. After three bushings everything looks good and the wear further down the train does not look too bad. A fourth bushing for the fourth wheel should be enough.

A cutting broach is used to enlarge any holes that are a tight fit for a pivot followed by a smoothing broach. To prepare for the wheels to go back in place all bushing holes are cleaned with pegs/toothpicks.

Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process, type 89 Seth Thomas movement — _{Test fitting the time-side wheels during the bushing process}

In the photo above, the plates and gears look shinier after a session with the ultrasonic cleaner. However, it’s important to note that the main goal in clock repair isn’t to make everything as shiny as possible. The focus is on reducing wear and tear. Some dirt and grime on the plates might not come off completely during the cleaning process in every case and it is not something the clock repairer should be overly concerned with.

Back to bushing. There is a little bit of play on the second and third wheels but it is tolerable so, I think I will stop at this point.

Punching a 3.5 mm Bergeon bushing into a clock plate — _{Punching a bushing into the plate}

Were I in the clock repair business I would bush everything on the time train, or the entire movement for that matter, but since I usually inspect movements in my collection every 2-3 years I can address any additional wear at that time.

On to the strike train. In the first article, I mentioned that there was not much wear on the strike side which might be attributable to that side not being wound as often. The only hole that must be addressed is the cam wheel bushing on the front plate. Why this bushing hole is worn much worse than the others is a bit of a mystery.

Okay, all the work is done for a total of five new Bergeon bushings. The holes have been pegged, and the movement is now ready to be reassembled.

The one hiccup encountered during the bushing process was the malfunction of my caliper tool. Fortunately, this isn’t a major problem, as all the Bergeon bushings are uniform at 3.5mm outside diameter, with inside diameters of either 1.4mm or 1.5mm so I knew what size to grab first.

Reassembly

When dealing with American 8-day time and strike movements, there are challenges in configuring the strike mechanism accurately. Occasionally, luck is on my side, and I manage to place the paddle in the deep slot, position the lever in the lowest part of the cam wheel, and align the warning wheel just right on the first attempt.

A useful tip. If the lever is in the lower part of the cam wheel and the paddle is not in the deep slot, simply move the toothed count wheel sideways so that it does not engage the pinon and reposition the wheel till the paddle finds the deep slot.

No luck setting up the strike this time! If the strike train does not lock correctly it will simply keep on running and you will know that soon enough.

The plates can be partially pried open without the risk of all the wheels and levers springing out. Repositioning the warning wheel involves moving the fly aside, carefully extracting the 4th wheel from its pivot hole, and rotating it a quarter turn or so to ensure the warning pin aligns with the stop lever.

_{Seth Thomas movement on the test stand}

A minor issue with the hammer lever surfaced as it was not aligning correctly with the strike pins on the cam wheel. No disassembly of the movement is required for this adjustment. Simply loosen the bottom two nuts by the mainsprings, and the strike hammer can be removed to straighten it. After having been bent multiple times over the years, straightening it out resolved the issue.

Next, the movement is oiled with Keystone clock pivot oil and mounted on a test stand. After a week it is running and striking as it should.

And lastly, my new caliper arrived just as I was concluding the servicing on this clock.

Addendum

To properly configure the strike side, pay attention to the positioning of the levers as pointed out by the arrows.

In the above photo, the lower arrow shows the paddle in the deep slot, and the upper arrow shows the drop lever in the indent of the cam.

The upper arrow shows the position of the stop pin on the stop wheel. The lower arrow shows the locking lever.

February 2, 2024

A Vintage Seth Thomas Clock with a peculiar veneered case

The Seth Thomas Clock Company, renowned for its long history dating back to the early 19th century, produced a variety of clock movements over the years, and among them is the Type 89 movement found in this clock.

Despite the absence of a specific year stamp, the clock’s design and construction suggest a manufacturing date in the mid to late 1930s. Upon initial inspection, it was evident that the clock was not functioning, a common issue with old clocks that have not run in years.

_{From afar the wood finish is striking}

Typically, clock movements face challenges related to low power output caused by wear and tear over time. The gradual deterioration of clocks during years of operation is often attributed to factors such as dirt accumulation, inadequate lubrication, and the lack of proper adjustments.

Although dirt accumulation can persist in a movement, causing friction and wear, I decided to see if I could get the clock to run. The process involved removing the hour and minute hands, releasing four screws securing the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.

An initial inspection revealed no visible issues with either the time or the strike side. Both mainsprings were found to be wound tight and seemingly ceased, likely due to the accumulation of glue-like dirt between the coils that will prevent the clock from running.

_{Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement}

To reduce tension on the mainsprings and provide the necessary energy for the clock to start running, an unwinding of the mainspring was performed using a let-down set. Oil was also applied to the pivots, as a temporary solution. Mixing new and old oil is never a good idea as a harmful abrasive paste is produced that could accelerate wear on the pivots and bushing holes. The plan, therefore, was not to run the clock for an extended period but merely to see if it could run.

While relaxing the mainsprings enabled the movement to run strongly, an issue persisted on the strike side, necessitating further investigation. Despite this, no major issues were anticipated, and the next steps will involve disassembly, thorough cleaning, any remediation, reassembly, and testing.

But first, let’s look at the case.

The case

This clock caught my eye at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, Canada, primarily due to its attractive appearance with what seemed to be rosewood veneer. Intrigued and encouraged by the reputable Seth Thomas trademark, I decided to make the purchase, especially given the appealing price.

However, upon closer inspection at home, I discovered that what I initially believed to be genuine rosewood was actually a thin layer of faux wood wrapping, and to my disappointment, some of it was peeling off in a couple of very visible areas, the worst by the bezel catch.

_{The worn and peeling section is adjacent to the bezel catch}

There might be speculation about whether the movement was reinstalled in a newer case, but my inclination is that this is how it originally left the factory. What the Seth Thomas company might have considered new and improved and would likely fool most consumers was but a cheap imitation.

It is clearly a cost-cutting measure rather than a later modification. Many clock companies faced financial difficulties during the Depression Years of the 1930s, leading them to seek cost-saving measures but honestly, this discovery is rather disheartening.

Nevertheless, the clock holds value because of the movement, which still has many years left. Join me later as we dismantle the clock movement and address any required repairs.

December 15, 2023

A Practical Journey with an Unwanted Upright Piano

For 27 years, a piano made in Montreal, Canada in 1911 occupied a silent corner of our living room, a relic of bygone days. Years ago we inherited the piano when my wife’s parents downsized from their larger home to a smaller one. They did not want it then and we do not want it now!

Over the years the dust settled on its keys, it was seldom played and its once-grand presence faded into the background of our lives. In the fall of 2023, we made a decision to repurpose the room it was in and it and other pieces of furniture unfortunately had to go.

Despite numerous attempts over several months to find it a new home or a willing buyer, the piano remained an unwanted fixture, a stubborn reminder of the past. We contemplated tuning the piano and refinishing the cabinet, but the restoration far exceeded its actual value. And then, what use would it serve!

_{The beginning stage of dismantling the piano}

Faced with the inevitability of its disposal, we decided to dismantle the piano, a task that turned out to be more challenging than expected. Disassembling it isn’t as straightforward as using a sledgehammer to smash it apart; it requires a systematic approach, considering which parts to remove first to access other sections. And, its considerable weight made the task of shifting it even a few inches from the wall a truly herculean effort.

As we hammered, pried apart, and unscrewed the piano over the course of four days, we expected to feel a mix of emotions, but nostalgia didn’t hit us as we thought it would.

The piano, once the center of musical gatherings, was scattered into hundreds of pieces destined for new purposes. We salvaged pieces of the aged mahogany veneered wood that would be useful for future projects.

_{Sections are set aside for future repurposing}

All metal parts, the cast iron frame, piano wire, nuts, bolts, screws (and there are a lot), and every other bit of metal were donated to a local recycler who happily came by with his aged pickup truck to collect the pieces. What we could not keep or donate was sent to the curb as trash.

_{There are more parts than you can imagine on an old piano}

Among the salvaged wood, a particular piece caught our attention. It was perfect as a clock shelf and it required no trimming or cutting.

As we affixed the reclaimed wood to the basement wall, our shelf now held several antique clocks, each with its own unique character. The irony of a 110-year-old discarded piano giving life to a shelf that now held clocks of varying ages, some younger than the shelf itself was not lost on us.

Displayed on the shelf from left to right is a Jerome & Company round top, a mantel clock from the Hamburg American Clock Company (HAC), a Seth Thomas marriage (the movement (ST) and case are from different makers), an E.N. Welch clock with alarm function, and another HAC from Germany. All are 8-day time and strike clocks and in top running condition.

In the basement’s hushed atmosphere, the clocks ticked in sync with the faint echoes of the piano’s past, forming a connection between the past and present.

Do we have any regrets, not in the least.

December 12, 2023

Junghans round-top mantel clock – wrapping up servicing

In the past two weeks, my focus has been directed towards the servicing of a Junghans roundtop mantel clock. This particular time and strike mantel clock is the Hunsruck model manufactured in the second half of 1913 (stamped B13 on the rear plate). For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can go here. For a description of mainspring servicing, you can find that article here.

_{Junghans Hunsruck mantel clock C.1913}

During this part of the servicing process, my attention will be focused on bushing work, reassembly (with some tips), final testing, and addressing the condition of the case.

_{Back of movement showing strike block and pendulum}

My initial assessment revealed that the movement was generally in good condition. While some previous work had been done on it, limited to a basic cleaning, no substantial repairs were evident. Nevertheless, a conspicuous buildup of dirty oil was observed in most pivot holes, underscoring the need for a good cleaning.

_{Avoid using a taper pin for this lever (see arrow), as it would result in the lever being excessively tight; opt for a thin wire instead}

Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations told me that new bushings were necessary: specifically, the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that move the tail that activates the hammer to produce the strike on the half hour.

The pivot holes were carefully cleaned out using toothpicks as the first step in the cleaning process. Subsequently, I examined the pivots on each wheel by running a fingernail across them to detect any ridges or imperfections, and they appeared to be in excellent condition. I also verified the integrity of the pins in each lantern pinion. Upon confirming that I had addressed all that I could at this point, the next phase involved cleaning the components in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Once everything was out of the ultrasonic cleaner all components were thoroughly dried to remove all traces of residual moisture.

Now to address the worn pivot holes.

_{A centering bit ensures an accurate cut}

If you are accustomed to handling traditional time-and-strike American clocks, the small pivots on these German clocks might cause some unease. The diameter of each bushing measures just 2.47mm (Bergeon bushing size), whereas conventional bushings for an American clock are often 3.47mm and larger (again, Bergeon-sized bushings).

In the above photo, I use a centering bit to ensure a precise cut into the plate so that the bushing can be seamlessly inserted.

To ensure a precise fit the newly installed bushings are reamed using a cutting broach, followed by smoothing with a broach and cleaning with a toothpick. After each new bushing is in place, the wheels are test-fitted to ensure they spin freely plus sufficient end shake.

Given the delicate nature of the pivots, handling each one requires careful attention, as a broken pivot and its repair can be a challenging and intricate task on a German clock.

After the bushings are installed the movement is reassembled. Before attaching the back plate, all wheels, and levers are positioned in their respective locations.

_{Wheels and levers are ready for the rear place}

To avoid having to remove the back plate to make further adjustments after assembly addressing four specific items will ease the process;

the count lever paddle must be in one of the deep slots of the count wheel,
the cam lever must be on the flat section of the cam,
the hammer tail must be positioned between two points of the star wheel (otherwise the tail contacts a star point, and the hammer will be left in the raised position preventing further striking)
and the pin on the warning wheel must be in the 12 o’clock position to catch the warning lever.

In my experience, the hammer tail contacting one of the star points is the most common of annoyances and calls for parting the plates. It is worth noting that the levers on clock movements of this specific type are not adjustable so, bending a lever to fit is not possible.

Utmost attention must be paid to moving the pivots carefully into their respective holes as the risk of a broken pivot is very high at this point in the process. A “pivot locator” is an indispensable tool for safely moving pivots into their holes while working on the movement.

_{The pendulum is placed such that it can be seen through the front glass} _portal

Prior to mounting on the test stand, the movement is oiled using Keystone pivot oil. As with oiling any clock, the maxim is “less is more”.

The testing phase is one of the most crucial parts of the process, providing a chance to make minor adjustments and regulate the movement. I routinely ensure that the movement goes through at least two or three operational cycles while mounted on the test stand. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running well and needs no further remediation it goes back into its case.

While the movement is being tested I generally address any issues regarding the case. Little needed to be done to this attractive oak-cased roundtop and a general cleaning with Murphy’s soap and an application of paste wax preserved its patina while sprucing up its appearance.

Servicing an antique clock not only respects its history but also keeps its mechanism working for future generations to appreciate.

November 24, 2023

Finding a Reliable Clock Repair Professional

If you’ve acquired a clock as a gift, through inheritance, from antique shopping, online purchases, or any other means, and it’s not functioning correctly, you have several choices in having it repaired.

_{Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock, C.1909}

You might decide to try fixing the clock yourself, especially if it’s a simple or inexpensive clock. Basic tools and some luck might help with minor repairs or cleaning, but keep in mind that professional skills and patience are often required for clock restoration.

Repairing clocks is a specialized craft that takes years to master, and specialized equipment is often needed. For high-quality or rare clocks, it’s often best to trust a professional.

Clock repair is becoming a rare and dwindling profession. Many clock repair businesses are closing as older experts retire, and there aren’t enough newcomers to continue the tradition. Finding a reputable clock repair person can be challenging and may require significant time and research.

Reputable clock repair establishments hire certified professionals who possess the expertise to handle a diverse array of clocks. Meanwhile, the availability of clock repair schools is decreasing, and there are fewer graduates, which leads to very few options in some areas.

Scottish tall case clock — _{McLachlan tall case clock, C.1848}

Suppose you’ve made the decision to search for a clock repair specialist. In that case, here are some suggestions to consider in your quest.

Finding a Reputable Clock Repair Service:

Perform a Google search to determine if there is a clock repair shop in your immediate area.
Antique stores often have connections with reputable clock repair specialists. Attending antique fairs can also help you network with enthusiasts who can recommend experienced clock repair professionals.
Check with the Better Business Bureau to see if a repair shop is in good standing without complaints. If you find a potential clock repair service online, be sure to read reviews and testimonials from previous customers. This can provide valuable insights into their reputation and the quality of their work.
Consult the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC) business directory, which lists reputable repair services in several countries.
Join local NAWCC chapters or forums (joining is free) to connect with experienced horologists and seek guidance on finding a repair person in your area.
If in the UK, look for individuals with memberships in the Antiquarian Horological Society (AHS) for clock expertise.
In Germany, the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Chronometrie is an excellent resource for finding clock specialists.
When contacting a clock repair specialist, don’t hesitate to ask for references from past clients. Speaking with satisfied customers can help you gauge their expertise and reliability.
Seek recommendations through word of mouth from people who have had their clocks repaired by reliable professionals.
Although not all watchmakers work on clocks, some may have the expertise or know of clock repair specialists in your area. Consider reaching out to watchmaking shops for referrals.
Contact local museums or historical societies that exhibit clocks. They often collaborate with or have connections to skilled clock restorers who can help maintain their collections.
Ensure that the repair person has the necessary qualifications and certifications, especially if you have a valuable or antique clock that requires delicate handling and expertise. You will feel more comfortable knowing it is in trusted hands.
If possible, visit the clock repair shop or specialist’s workshop in person. This gives you an opportunity to see their work environment, tools, and the types of clocks they are currently servicing.
Once you have found a clock repair individual get an estimate of how long the repair is expected to take. Complex repairs may require more time, so it is essential to have a realistic time frame in mind. Count on a turnaround time of months rather than weeks even for standard servicing.

Whether you’ve come into possession of a clock through various means, finding a skilled clock repair specialist is essential to restore your clock to its former glory. While attempting DIY repairs can be tempting for simpler clocks, the intricacies of clock mechanisms often demand the expertise of a professional.

_{Complicated repairs are beyond the scope of the do-it-yourselfer}

By following these guidelines and conducting thorough research, you can locate a reputable clock repair specialist who will provide the care and attention your clock deserves, preserving its beauty and functionality for years to come.

September 26, 2023

The ubiquitous type 89 movement by Seth Thomas

The Seth Thomas Clock Company is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history dating back to the early 19th century. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas over the years. This type was made between 1900 and 1938.

This is a first look at the movement of a Seth Thomas time and strike mantel clock with a type 89 movement. Since there is no year stamp on the clock movement I am surmising that this clock was manufactured in the mid to late 1930s judging from its design and construction.

Discovered at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, the clock was not functioning initially.

Generally speaking, a clock movement faces issues with low power output caused by friction resulting from wear over time. The primary issue with aging clocks is their gradual deterioration due to extended periods of operation. Common culprits are dirt accumulation, insufficient lubrication, and lack of proper adjustments, although these are unlikely to be the reasons for the malfunction.

Interestingly, a dirty movement often continues to function even without lubrication if it’s in decent condition. There is no doubt that this movement requires bushing work to address accelerated wear, yet regrettably, I do not currently have access to the necessary bushing tools for the task as I am on holiday.

Despite the accumulation of grime, and potential wear-related concerns, I opted to put the movement into action, primarily with the goal of uncovering underlying issues. Doing this required removing the hour and minute hands, releasing 4 screws holding the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.

Once on the work bench an initial inspection of the movement did not reveal any obvious issues with either the time or the strike side, so, it was safe to proceed further. When found both mainsprings on this time and strike movement were wound tight and appeared ceased likely as a result of the build-up of glue-like dirt between the coils of the mainsprings.

I have found that in some cases gently unwinding the coils of mainsprings with a let-down set can often relieve enough tension to provide a clock with the necessary energy to start running but there was one more step in the process.

_{A letdown set is required in order to release the mainsprings}

Although there was a noticeable amount of dirt around the pivots, I applied oil to each one. However, it’s important to be cautious about mixing new and old oil, as their interaction can result in the formation of a harmful abrasive paste, which can speed up wear on both the pivots and the bushing holes.

Thus, while oiling a dirty movement is a temporary solution, it’s not a replacement for proper disassembly, thorough cleaning, and addressing wear issues.

As a result of releasing the mainspring, oiling the pivots, and putting the movement in beat, it now runs strongly. However, there is something amiss with the strike side and further investigation is required. Despite this, I am not anticipating major issues with this movement.

The next step is disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and testing. Should it require bushing work, that step will have to wait a while longer.

I have every confidence that this movement will run very well once serviced.

August 25, 2023

How to Display an Antique Clock in Your Home

In this blog post, we’ll share practical tips on how to incorporate antique clocks into your interior decor. We’ll discuss strategic placement, creative styling techniques, and ways to create an eye-catching focal point.

Make your antique clock the star of the show by displaying it in a prominent location where it can take center stage. Surround it with complementary decor pieces such as vintage books, elegant candle holders, or framed photos to create an enchanting vignette that enhances the clock’s charm.

It’s best to limit the number of antique clocks in a room to one or two to avoid clutter and maintain a visually pleasing space. By creating a focal point for your antique clock, you’ll effortlessly draw the eye and showcase its timeless beauty.

However, some clock collectors understand the importance of presentation when displaying their collections. While it’s generally recommended to avoid placing multiple clocks in one location, some collectors choose to showcase their entire collection together. In such cases, grouping the clocks based on maker, style, type, vintage/age, or country of origin can create a cohesive and visually appealing arrangement. Thoughtful and well-planned presentations with a distinct theme running through them tend to be more successful than haphazard and confusing displays.

It’s common for collectors to set limits on the number of clocks displayed and running at any given time. Some clocks may be allowed to stop for a “break” while others continue to run continuously. Occasionally changing the location of clocks can add variety, but it’s important to consider the sensitivity of certain clocks to being moved.

_{Trio of clocks representing 3 time zones}

For example, in one photo, there are three prominently displayed clocks in a large room, including a 2-weight Gustav Becker clock from 1902, a Seth Thomas round-top cottage clock, and an Ansonia short-drop octagon clock. The arrangement allows the clocks to command attention without overcrowding the space.

Front room collection — _{Clocks displayed in the living room}

Another option is to confine the collection to one room, while others prefer to have clocks distributed throughout the house. The choice depends on personal preference and the tolerance of one’s partner.

In an entrance hallway, the Ridgeway tall case clock shares space with an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock. The limitations of the hallway restrict the number of clocks displayed.

The kitchen features a U.M. Muller time and strike wall clock, which serves as a reliable timepiece for the household.

Lastly, a Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock sits atop a 1947 Stromberg Carlson console radio in the dining room, adding a touch of elegance to the space.

Arranging a clock collection requires thoughtful consideration, care, and attention. It’s essential to find a balance between showcasing the clocks and maintaining a visually pleasing and harmonious environment. Each placement decision contributes to the overall aesthetic and impact of the collection within the home.

July 21, 2023

Junghans Hunsruck roundtop mantel clock – refreshing the case

Junghans, a renowned manufacturer of high-end wristwatches today, acknowledges their significant role in the clock industry by providing access to their catalogs to anyone interested in researching their clock production since the company’s establishment in the 1880s.

This demonstrates the company’s commitment to preserving the history and legacy of their brand and allowing collectors and enthusiasts to gain valuable insights into the evolution of their clock-making techniques and designs over time.

The 1915 Junghans catalog identifies this clock as the Hunsruck, named after a mountain range in Germany, and provides its specifications as 28.5 cm in height with a mahogany or oak case construction, a 14-day run time, and a silvered dial.

While I haven’t yet had the opportunity to service the clock’s movement, I have focused my attention on refreshing the clock’s case, which is the main topic of this post.

This particular clock was originally offered in both oak and mahogany versions, and the one in my possession is the mahogany variant.

A comment on the finish

Despite my expectations that the finish would be consistent throughout the entire case, I have noticed a noticeable tonal variation between the base and the top, sides, and front of the clock. This observation leads me to suspect that the base may be crafted from a different type of wood than the rest of the clock.

We will have to wait and see if any measures taken will have an impact on the tonal difference between the base and the rest of the clock.

_{All brass is polished and after one coat of stain is applied}

Work begins on the case

I began by giving the case a thorough cleaning using Murphy’s soap. Following the cleaning, I applied a light coat of Mahogany stain from a company called Minwax, being cautious not to leave it on for more than the recommended 10-minute period to ensure the stain penetrated the wood correctly. After 10 minutes, I wiped off any remaining residue and gave it an additional wipe at the four-hour drying point.

After the initial staining, I observed that the base of the clock still had a tonal difference compared to the rest of the case.

Through previous experience, I’ve learned not to overdo the staining process, and often, one coat is more than sufficient. Despite this, I opted to apply a second coat of stain to the base only, intending to stop there, even if the tonal difference was still present. As a result there remained a subtle variation in the finish, perhaps only discernible to me. Nevertheless, I was very satisfied with the performance of the stain as it effectively concealed the scratches and nicks on the case.

For the final stage of the case restoration, my original plan was to use a product called Wipe-On Poly by Minwax but using a modern finish for restoring antique clock cases is not a conventional practice.

After careful consideration, I opted for a less intrusive approach by utilizing a finishing paste wax specifically designed for dark finishes, also made by Minwax (and no, I don’t have shares in the company). Clock cases were typically dusted, waxed, and polished during their time as part of routine housekeeping.

_{After one coat of finishing paste wax}

As always, my goal is not to restore the clock case to its original factory finish but rather to conceal any imperfections caused by wear and tear on the wood surfaces in order to enhance its overall appearance. The light refinishing effectively achieved the desired outcome.

The brass

To clean the dial, side door button, and ball feet, I used a cleaning and polishing product called Brasso. I was pleasantly surprised by the results since I had anticipated that removing years of accumulated dirt and grime would be a significant challenge. However, the Brasso worked remarkably well in restoring the brass clock case features to their former shine. I removed the ball feet by unscrewing them so that I could polish every part of them thoroughly.

The dial

Despite efforts to remove the blemish between the numbers four and five with Murphy’s Soap, which was clearly visible in the auction photo above, it was found to be impossible to eliminate completely. However, it is now slightly less noticeable. I initially assumed that it was dirt, but upon closer inspection, it turned out to be some sort of abrasion.

In sum

Restoring an antique clock case can be a delicate and challenging process that requires patience and attention to detail. By using a combination of cleaning and staining products, as well as conventional finishes it’s possible to bring new life to a piece that may have been neglected or damaged over time.

While it may not always be possible to eliminate every imperfection entirely, taking the time to restore a clock case to a semblance of its former glory can be a rewarding experience for both the restorer and the future owner of the piece. Ultimately, the care and effort put into restoring an antique clock case can help preserve its history and ensure that it remains to be enjoyed for generations to come.

May 19, 2023

Antique Clock Buying Guide: Tips and Advice for Finding Your Perfect clock

Antique clocks come in a wide variety of styles, makers, and materials, and can range in price from a few hundred to tens of thousands of dollars. Whether you’re a collector, a history buff, or simply appreciate the craftsmanship and beauty of antique timepieces, buying an antique clock requires careful consideration and research.

_{A marriage not made in heaven, movement and case do not match and the glass door is missing}

In this article, we’ll provide you with some tips and advice to help you navigate the world of antique clocks and make informed decisions when purchasing your own antique timepiece. From researching different styles to finding a reputable dealer, we’ll cover the key factors you need to consider when buying an antique clock.

Buying an antique clock can be a fascinating experience, but it can also be challenging. Here are some tips to help you find and buy an antique clock:

Research

Before you start looking for an antique clock, “do your research”. Learn about different styles, makers, and materials used in antique clocks, so you can make an informed decision. Many reputable sites online will assist you with your research. Knowledge is power as they say.

Budget carefully

Set a budget before you start your search. Prices for antique clocks can vary widely, so it’s important to know what you can afford. Staying within your budget limitations will eliminate buyers’ regret.

Clock face showing moon dial — _{Establish your limit and budget carefully; grandfather clocks like this Ridgeway may look impressive but demand is low}

Condition of the clock

Search out clocks that are in good working order, or at least repairable if you’re willing to put in the time and money. Inspect the clock carefully for damage, missing parts, or signs of wear and tear. Any clock that has missing pieces and the pieces are a challenge to source may be difficult or impossible to repair and restore to its original working condition and at the end of the day may not be worth the investment.

Authenticity

Verify the authenticity of the clock by checking its maker’s marks or other identifying features. If possible, get a certificate of authenticity from a reputable dealer or appraiser. Verify that the case and the movement began life together.

Provenance

The clock’s history and provenance can be important factors in its value. Look for clocks with a documented history, or that have been owned by notable individuals or institutions.

_{Older Ingraham mantel clocks are more desirable than later clocks made by the same company}

Reputable dealer

Purchase your antique clock from a reputable dealer or auction house. Look for dealers who specialize in antique clocks, have a good reputation, and offer a guarantee of authenticity. Rely on your own judgment before you finalize the purchase agreement.

Negotiating the price

Don’t be afraid to negotiate the price with the dealer or seller, especially if the clock is in need of repair or restoration. Be respectful and make reasonable offers but be prepared to walk away if the seller is unwilling to negotiate or if the price exceeds your budget. There are many fish in the sea. Remember that there are many antique clocks available on the market, and it’s important to find the right clock at the right price for you.

_{Sometime you get lucky when the seller is unaware of the value of a clock}

Transport and installation

Transporting and installing an antique clock, particularly a tall case or large wall clock can be tricky, so make sure you have a plan in place before you buy. Consider hiring a professional to help with installation and maintenance. Will that 18th-century grandfather clock fit in your car and are you able to set it up once you have it through the door?

Overall, buying an antique clock can be a rewarding experience, but it’s important to do your research, buy from reputable sources, and take the time to properly care for and maintain your new treasure.

March 24, 2023

Related Link

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1. Is the Clock Wound?

2. Is the Clock Level and in Beat?

3. Is the Pendulum Free to Swing?

4. Are the Hands Binding?

5. Is the Movement Dirty or Dry?

Conclusion: When Simple Fixes Aren’t Enough

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Around Or Above Door Frames

Humid Areas Such As The Kitchen, Especially Above a Sink

On Top Of Appliances Or Anything That Vibrates

High Traffic Areas, Such As Narrow Hallways, Especially For Hanging Clocks

Direct Sunlight

Near Heating Vents Or Above Heating Registers

Children’s Play Areas

Final Thoughts

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Something Still Troubled Me

A Decision Was Made

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Repair, Restoration, and Conservation Defined

A Case in Point: 1878 E. Ingraham Huron Clock

Deciding on the Right Approach

Guiding Questions for Intervention

The Collector’s Dilemma

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The Quick Fix

The Emergence of the Electric Clock

Remembering past tinkers

Modern Repairs

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The Danby

Overall Condition of the Case

The Plan

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About the Company

Condition of Case and Remarks

The Movement | Notes and First Steps in Servicing

Next Steps

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