Tag: beginner

First blog post – 6 years ago

Smiths Enfield mantel clock

Clock collecting from a beginner’s perspective. That was the subject of my first blog post six years ago. Since then I have seen a lot of excellent and not-so-good blogs come and go but I wanted to give it my best shot and after 6 years, well, I am still here.

I started with a free WordPress plan, moved to a personal plan and then, this year, to a Premium plan. I now permit advertising on my site but my only goal is to recoup costs for server space and domain name. Anything extra is gravy.

In the early days I would stop blogging in the summer and resume in the fall. That did not work so well as my viewership fell off and I had to rebuild after the holidays. Now I schedule all my articles in advance. In fact, I typically have about 15-18 articles “in the can” at any given time. Having an inventory of articles means there is no need to scramble with something new every 3-4 days, my typical interval between articles. Some of you bloggers must know how hard it is to put words together when inspiration is lacking.

I am not sure what I was expecting 6 years ago but now have a dedicated following, receive many interesting letters each week, have met people through my blog and it seems people appreciate my content. This is reflected in statistics which are the lifeblood of any blog and it’s those daily figures that keep a blogger motivated. For instance, I have more views in a typical day than I had in the first 3 months of my blog.

Not once do I claim to be a professional horologist but after 10+ years in clock repair as a hobbyist I think I know something by now.

Welcome to my first blog post written May 15, 2015 which I will present word for word.

wall clock
OK, so it’s a Chinese clock but it works

I regard myself as a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a unique talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.

It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock. Why start with a Chinese-made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. It was cheap, it piqued my interest in collecting and repair and it was something to practice on. I then moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, known as the “Fan-top”

My blog will profile clocks in my collection both vintage and antique as well as describe my attempts at repair. Along the way I will seek advice from you, the reader, from clock forum sites and whatever information I can find online.

Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock

Clock collecting is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling (and now, writing). Locating good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia and Canada, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting that one-of-a-kind deal.

Most photos on this site are my own. Photos from other sources will be given full credit. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical wonders and anything about their provenance will included as well.

Forestville Westminster chime
Forestville Westminster chime mantel clock

Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I hope to share my frustrations and my successes.

As Winston Churchill once said, “Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm”.

I have stayed true to form since then and continue to publish 7 to 9 articles per month. Since then I have acquired dozens of antique and vintage clocks from all over Canada and probably have upwards of 80 clocks in my collection at this point. I have also said goodbye to an additional 20 clocks through local sales and as gifts. It remains a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy although occasionally I have done some paid and pro bono work.

If you have stayed with me since the beginning, thank you, but if you are new to my blog or following for the first time, welcome!

Anyway as I said 6 years ago, “Stay tuned”.

What is this clock thing for? #4 – the Geneva stop

You will not see Geneva stops on many clocks but if you do here is an explanation of how they work and how to set up the stops.

EN Welch Whittier parlour clock circa 1895, time and strike movement with Geneva stops

Most American clock movements do not use the middle portion of a long & powerful spring but use most, if not all of the mainspring. Geneva stops address this power issue. They are found on better quality antique movements made by American manufacturers. They are set so that when winding the mainspring you can only wind so far and then no further. As we know, clocks can’t be “over-wound” and this lets you know where the definite stopping point is.

On weight drive clocks Geneva stops are used to prevent undue force coming on the pendulum by jamming the weight against the seat board.

Stop works are used as a compromise by utilizing only the middle portion of a long and powerful spring, which varies too much in the amount of its power in the fully wound and completely released positions to get a good rate on the clock if all the force of the spring were utilized in driving the movement.

Removing the stops will do no harm to the movement but it will not release power as originally intended

You will notice a long “finger” (long point of upper star) on one of the Geneva stop gears and a wider gap (shallow groove of lower star) on the other. You set these up so that when the proper number of turns are completed the long finger meshes with the wide gap, thus preventing any further turning.

Strike side stop in lock when long point of upper star is engaged in shallow groove of lower star

You will need a letdown set to release the springs

Setting up the Geneva stop

Wind up the spring and then let it down slowly until the stop work is locked, counting the number of turns and writing it down. Then, hold the spring with your let down key and remove the stop from the plate; then count the number of turns until the spring is down and also write that down. Alternatively, wind the mainspring until it winds no further, release the mainspring with your letdown key one complete turn and set the stop. It may take more than one try to set it up correctly.

Don’t worry if they have been removed

On many antique clocks these have been removed because the repair person did not know what to do about properly setting them up.

Geneva stops removed

Removing the stops will do no harm to the movement but it will not release power as originally intended.

Get it now before it’s gone – is this clock worth collecting?

Antique steeple clock. Battery operated. Has been refinished Very nice clock

Hmm, I wonder if they had batteries 100 years ago?

Why are antique & vintage clock prices all over the map?

Garish Victorian excess but I like it!

A few months ago I was following a NAWCC thread on the volatility of clock prices and thought I would echo comments from some of the posters as well as my own thoughts on why clock prices are seemingly all over the map.

Market conditions and demand play a significant role. I have watched sadly as prices for many early American clocks have plummeted yet high end clocks have retained their value. Theories abound including tough economic times and the newer generation’s rejection of anything old.

As one poster said, “How is a price arrived at? It is a murky and confusing process. People use a number of metrics including a price consistently achieved at auction and their own experience buying and/or selling. Most offer clocks for 2 to 3 times what they expect to receive knowing that they will be negotiated down because it is much harder to mark something up. It is a very inexact science and a source of much debate. An object is ultimately worth what someone is willing to pay.” That’s especially true of a truly rare clock for which there is no real comparison. The term “rare” is difficult to define but rare is what most “experts” generally agree upon.

However, what was once considered “rare” based upon the largely anecdotal experience of persons whether they are dealers, collectors or auctioneers has been changed by the “eBay effect” where rarity is challenged by many examples offered for sale. It has been a real game changer.

Sperry and Shaw New York style for $75
Sperry and Shaw New York style clock for $75

Another poster said, “Many people who deal in antiques and collectibles cannot know everything.” It is especially true in the blossoming low end line of antique shops which are no different than flea markets and junk shops. Many of these stores rely on impulse buying and clock experts are not their target customer.

The poster went on to say, “These clocks are not intended be sold to a serious collector, but the impulse buyer will make the clock purchase based on any number of factors – decorative; “That steeple clock would fit perfectly on the mantel” or “We don’t care that it might not work, it is for show only” or nostalgic; “We always wanted an old clock and we can now afford it”. You cannot discount the value of being able to see the object up close, smell it, touch it and hear it tick and or strike.”

A true clock store, usually with repair services, commands high prices for their wares, but the clocks usually come with a guarantee and the comfort of knowing that it will work well and will do so for years to come. Internet stores lack the fixed and variable costs (and reputation) that a brick and mortar establishment has and, all other things being equal, can offer their product at a lower cost. However, to make a true cost comparison, one should add the cost of shipping, packaging, handling and insurance that will need to be paid by the purchaser.

Rural Nova Scotia antique shop
Is this an antique store or a junk shop?

I cringe as I walk into some of these shops. Most antique malls that I’ve discovered charge a monthly rate plus a commission percentage that result in significant markups. I spotted a Mauthe box clock priced at $300.00. It had a marred dial, broken beveled glass panels and marked “as-is”. When I asked the dealer about a better price, his answer was to knock 10% off. I walked away shaking my head.

There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects there is a price range that most would consider reasonable. I have paid more for some clocks than they are worth but armed with increased knowledge I can now make more informed decisions in the future. Caveat Emptor is the principle which should guide every buyer. The buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Education is the key as an informed buyer will make much better choices.

Arthur Pequegnat Bedford – bringing a handsome mantel clock back to life – Part II

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock

This is Part II of a two part series in which I describe the final finishing of an Arthur Pequegnat Bedford clock case.

In Part I I described the challenges of repairing the clock case and the minor repairs to the movement.

In the first part of the series I also described how I acquired this Arthur Pequegnat mantel/shelf clock during my travels to Quebec this spring.

The red oak veneered clock is complete with pendulum bob, a good label on the inside back of the access panel, coil gong and of course, the signature time and strike Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates.

Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings
Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings

It is the “Bedford” model. Online research informs me that two Bedford models were produced. This one, which is the later version, measures 9 ¾ inches high by 8 ¾ inches wide by 5 ½ inches deep. It has a silvered 6 inch dial with Arabic numerals with no Pequegnat inscription on the bottom of the dial face, spade hands surrounded by a thick brass bezel and concave base moulding. It has a passing ½ hour strike on a coiled gong.

The earlier model has a 5 inch enameled dial with stylized Arabic numerals and Pequegnat inscription on the dial face, spade hands, oak veneered case, a thinner brass bezel and convex base moulding. The case measurements are identical. The time and strike movement differs from the later model by having a ½ hour passing strike on a bell.

If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install larger (and correct) spade hands

I initially thought that the larger dial might make this a one-of clock but after working on the case I am inclined to believe that the dial might be a replacement. I observed two sets of screw holes, one for the larger dial and one presumably for a smaller one. A factory switch or perhaps a clock-maker replaced the dial at a later time for whatever reason. After looking at a photo of the Bedford taken at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario (Canada) you can easily see the smaller dial and thinner bezel.

Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum
Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum

Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock, assembled, cleaned and working but before case refinishing

I do not think the larger dial overpowers the look of the clock, in fact, it gives it a more contemporary presence. If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install correctly sized spade hands. Unfortunately, the previous owner is unaware of the difference.

The task of clamping and gluing the case took several days as each section of the case required attention. And now to the final finish.

Gluing and clamping took time
Gluing and clamping took time

Before the case restoration. Yes, the clock was in sad shape.

Dirty case
Very dirty case with years of grime and no grain visible

After giving the case a good cleaning I applied one thin coat of Minwax red oak stain to hide the bare areas and rough edges. I let the stain sit for 5 minutes and wiped off the excess with a cotton cloth. I allowed the case to thoroughly dry for 24 hours before the first sanding. For the final finish I chose Minwax PolyWipe for two reasons, one, it is simple to apply since it is easily wiped on and secondly, I wanted to avoid the amber tone of a lacquer which might result in concealing the grain. I applied six coats of PolyWipe and used 400 grit emery paper between each coat.

After cleaning, sanding and two coats of PolyWipe this is the result.

PolyWipe applications
After two PolyWipe applications

I am pleased that the grain came up very nicely, reminding me of what it must have looked like many years ago.

Finished clock
Finished clock, after 6 coats of PolyWipe

After six thin coats of PolyWipe the result is a revitalized finish that is durable, attractive and will last for years.

The brass door has me puzzled. What I thought was a broken hinge was actually folded into the bezel and soldered.

7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel
7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel

Why? I am reluctant to remove the solder because I risk breaking the glass by bending the retaining tabs. They are in very tight. As it stands the glass door will friction fit onto the dial bezel. Not the best but it will do for now. I will give it a second look, perhaps I can de-solder that hinge without removing the glass.

A project that is well worth the time and effort. It is always satisfying saving an old clock and bringing it back to life.

What is this thing for? #1 – The clock case stabilizer

Wall stabilzers

Gustav Becker two weight regulator

My Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator wall clock is 51 inches in length. It is a 2-weight regulator that runs on an eight day cycle. In order to bring the weights up I must open the access door and insert the winding crank into the arbours on the clock face. I then raise the weights to their highest safe level. During the process of opening the access door and winding the clock there is always the risk of moving the clock, disrupting the level thus creating a condition where it is out-of-beat. In short the stabilizers, located on each side, keep the case from shifting while winding the clock.

Clock-makers provided stabilizers on many clocks so that they would not move during regular winding or remain stable in the event of vibration or shock (accidentally bumping into it).

The stabilizer is usually about an inch in length, has a knurled brass knob on one end and is mounted on a brass or steel plate which is then fixed to the back of the clock case by means of wood screws.

Brass stabilizer
Brass stabilizer

This is the right stabilizer on my Gustav Becker.

Right stabilizer
Right stabilizer

Junghans Crispi wall clcok with compensating pendulum
Junghans Crispi wall clock showing one of the stabilizers

If you find two small holes on either side of the back and near the bottom of the case of a wall clock you can bet that you are missing the wall stabilizers. You can order them from any clock supply house.

They not only complete the look of a wall clock but are functional as well. A very simple solution to a potentially frustrating problem.

Gilbert time and strike – why I am putting the movement aside for now

ome clockmakers are not fond of putting Gilberts back together

While antiquing some time ago I came across boxes of clock movements in a shop. Some were fairly new though I found a Gilbert time and strike date stamped 1906 which piqued my interest. In the box was the key, the coil gong, clock hands, pendulum and movement mounting screws. A movement without a case. Hmm, interesting! Here’s what I’m thinking.

You dig up an old clock from the basement. It was your mothers and you were immediately reminded of the soothing sound of the clock when you were a kid. Wouldn’t it be nice to get that old clock running again. You fiddle with it and despite your best efforts you just cannot get the thing going. Why not bring it to the local clock-maker? He takes a look at it and explains that it is worn out. It will cost much more than the clock is worth to repair it, he says. But there is a solution. Take the works out and replace the movement with a reliable quartz one and all for less than half the cost of a repair. It sure would be nice to get that old clock running again and who would know that a new quartz movement is inside. The clock-maker takes the movement out, asks the customer if they want it, puts it in a box on a shelf and uses it for parts on the next clock. I’ll bet I’m close.

It is a Gilbert time and strike with a passing bell strike on the half hour. It has a distinctive 24 hour count wheel meaning that the count wheel rotates just once every 24 hours, each half with slots for 12 hours.

Gilbert time and strike date stamped 1906
Gilbert time and strike date stamped 1906

It sat in a box  in my office for several months. The other day I placed the movement on a test stand to determine its condition, wound the time side and BANG, the mainspring blew apart. A nice clean break! Luckily it did not take me or any other parts with it. The break was so far from the loop end that the mainspring was not salvageable. You can see the snapped section of the left mainspring in the photo above. Determined to see this movement in running condition I ordered a new spring from a clock supply house.

Top plate removed
Top plate removed

When I dis-assembled the movement it was worn but repairable. However, all pivots were in very good condition except one, the second wheel on the time side, front plate. It was worn at the shoulder as you can see in the next photo.

Unusual wear on second wheel, time side
Unusual wear on second wheel, time side

Was this enough to stop the clock and why just one? Perhaps a combination of factors. It is the second wheel and under the most axial load or probably a contaminated pivot hole with enough embedded detritus that would have ground away at the pivot shoulder.

There are only two solutions, fashion a new pivot or turn down the pivot and polish it. Fashioning a new pivot is a lot of work. However, there is enough steel left after it is turned down to give me a strong pivot. I chose the second option and installed a new bushing to fit the new pivot size which is much easier than re-pivoting. I put the wheel on a lathe and ground the pivot down to the size I wanted and then gave it a polish.

New bushing that had to be punched to stay in place
New bushing had to be punched to stay in place

The second issue was an old bushing that had been installed at some point in the clocks life. I drilled out the old bushing knowing that the replacement bushing would be loose. Alas, it slipped out too easily. The solution, two punches adjacent to the bushing to secure it in place. Punching a brass movement is rarely a good idea but this was a solution that was appropriate to the situation.

I installed two more bushings on the strike side second wheel back plate and third wheel front plate and one more on the time side, second wheel, back plate.

With the new mainspring installed and the repairs completed, it was time to assemble the clock and test it. I cannot count the number of times when I have re-assembled an American time and strike only to find that the strike setup was slightly out of adjustment. You know you have a problem when the clock strikes until the mainspring winds down. Placing the lever in the maintenance cam while the count lever is directly into the deep slot and hoping that the warning wheel pin locks at just the correct moment is always fun. I have cursed a few times when I cannot get it right. In this case it was first time lucky, the stop pin was in the right location on my first try.

On the test stand, bell is now fixed in place
On the test stand, bell is now fixed in place

Toothpicks reminding of the location of the bell lever
As an aid in re-assembly toothpicks remind me of the location of the bell lever

The clock has been running but does not seem to be able to get past 5 days of an 8-day cycle. I realize that there are some things I need to address before I get this clock running a full cycle but I have other projects on the go. Since this movement does not have a case I took it off the test stand, put it in a box on a shelf, included some notes, and will address it at a later date when and if I ever get a case.

Gilbert Notes
Notes about the movement reminding me what needs to be done

So, I’ll wait for that illusive case but in the meantime into storage it goes.

240 clock posts later and still ticking away

Rural Nova Scotia antique shop

The other day I decided to explore my humble beginnings and realized that 240 posts ago was post number one. Three years ago I had recently retired and I decided to look into blogging, something I always wanted to do. I never considered myself a great writer. I do not have that natural flair that some people seem to have for writing but I wanted to give it a try. I had some thoughts and ideas that I wanted to communicate with an audience that was looking for something a little different.

I attended a WordPress session at my local college and was very impressed with how easy it was to set up a blogging site. Anyone can do it said the facilitator and I wasted no time getting started. WordPress impressed me as a very intuitive package then and after 3 years I am still impressed with the power of the product.

This year as some of you know I decided to buy a domain name which I think is a great name and says everything it needs to,  antiquevintageclock.com and a 1-year automatically renewable subscription. I won’t go into the additional benefits of the new package suffice to say the time was right for a change. The result has been a slight uptick in hits and exposure to more powerful options within WordPress.

Just a note about hits. In the first week or so of my new domain name my hits dropped dramatically, something to do with Google’s ranking analytics and not unusual for a brand new domain name. Of course, after I hit the migrate button and saw my hits drop I found an article that spoke directly to making preparations beforehand to avoid low hits after migration but too late for me. It would have been nice for a WordPress warning box to pop that would have read, “Oh, before you do that you may want to read this”

So, here is what I said three years ago. It was a short article and I remember at the time what a real struggle it was to put those first few words together.

I am no more than a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a great talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.

It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota 2-train wall clock about 3 years ago.

The clock that started my collection, a humble Chinese clock that still ticks today.

Now I know what you are thinking. Why start with a Chinese made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. Well, it was pretty cheap and it piqued my interest in collecting. From there I moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.

I intend to profile my clocks both old and newly acquired on this blog and describe my attempts to repair and maintain my modest collection. I might even solicit a little help from my fellow clock enthusiasts.

Some of the nicer things about clock collecting are that is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling. Finding good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting fabulous deals. All the photos on this site are my own. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical clocks and talk about the pedigree if I can learn anything about the history of any of these clocks..

Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I will be able to share my many experiences.

Well, I am still doing what I set out to do, profile my modest collection and pass on the clock repair techniques I have learned to the novice and intermediate clock repairer. Do I know more than I knew then? Sure, isn’t that what learning is all about? I am still tuned in and I hope you are too.

Westclox travel alarm clock made in China

Westclox travel alarm clock

While on a vacation in the Dominican Republic we brought along an old Westclox wind-up mechanical travel alarm clock for no other reason but to have it as a curiosity and of course, to get us up in the morning. You might wonder why an alarm clock is necessary for a relaxing beach vacation. Well, if you have excursions planned for a specific day, it’s essential to wake up early and on schedule.

We’ve all become accustomed to using electronic alarms, like those on our cell phones or tablets, to wake us at a precise time. However, my brief testing showed that this compact travel alarm clock works well, even if it’s not quite as precise.

This is a Westclox travel alarm clock I purchased from a local antique dealer for $6. It’s in excellent condition, suggesting it hasn’t seen much travel. Clocks like this often didn’t fare well with heavy use; once they broke, they were typically discarded.

I would date it to the 1960s. It is very compact, measuring 3 inches square by 1 1/2 inches deep when collapsed. It is in a light brown plastic case and folds into its case when transported. It fits easily into a purse, messenger bag, overnight bag, or suitcase.

Collapsed, the clock fits anywhere
Collapsed, the clock fits anywhere

Unlike older alarm clocks that usually have two separate winding keys, this one combines the winding mechanism for both the bell alarm and the time function into a single key. The center knob is used to adjust the time, while the upper-left knob sets the alarm. Additionally, there is a speed adjustment located just above the center knob.

Red lever is for activating the alarm
The red lever activates the alarm

The three patent numbers on the back of the clock don’t clearly indicate the exact year it was manufactured.

These clocks were produced in large quantities and can often be found for under $10 on online marketplaces or in antique stores.

Back of alarm clock showing setting knobs
Back of the alarm clock shows setting knobs

While many Westclox alarm clocks were produced in Canada and the US, by the 1960s, production shifted offshore to reduce costs. This particular clock was made in China, whereas other similar Westclox alarm clocks from the same era were manufactured in Taiwan.

Westclox alarm clocks were originally produced by the United Clock Company in Peru, Illinois in the late nineteenth century.

The company initially failed, became the Western Clock Co., and again went bankrupt, reorganized under the Western Clock Manufacturing Co., and found success when they acquired the first patent for the Big Ben alarm clock in the early part of the 20th Century. In 1931 Western Clock Co. merged with Seth Thomas with both companies falling under the General Time Corporation. Westclox then became a division of General Time.

Regarding the Canadian connection, a significant number of Westclox alarm clocks sold in North America were manufactured in Peterborough, Ontario, from 1922 to the early 1980s.

Quite often alarm clocks that I find in flea markets and antique shops are dented, missing winding keys and other adjustment knobs which I try to avoid (unless for parts) but this one was complete.

Although I primarily collect clocks, I do have several alarm clocks in my collection. I am selective, adding only those that are particularly interesting, and I avoid clocks with luminous dials from the early 20th century due to the potential exposure to Radium.

Most traveling alarm clocks remain quite affordable, except for certain Swiss and French models.

This clock is an excellent example from a company that was once the undisputed leader in alarm clock production.

Featured article on Chelsea Clock blog about my blog

The following is an article that was featured on the Chelsea Clock blog

I have always had a fascination with clocks. As a young boy I can remember the schoolhouse clock in my grandparents’ kitchen and the ticking sound it would make that echoed through the entire house.

Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock, circa 1913

We all have busy lives and despite my interest in clocks over the years it was not until the year 2000 that I started building my collection, first with a Seth Thomas Adamantine clock and later with more mantel clocks, wall clocks and finally a grandfather clock in 2012. My collection has expanded to include virtually every style of clock though my interest lies specifically with American and European wall and shelf clocks. As I write there are about 35 clocks ticking away in my home.

In my blog I stress that I am not a trained horologist but have accumulated enough knowledge over the years that I feel capable of addressing general clock issues

Clock repair came a little later. I began with general understanding of the cleaning and oiling of clock movements in order to keep my little collection running. As I acquired clock repair tools and equipment I progressed to servicing pinions, bushings, verge repairs, cleaning of mainsprings and case restoration.

In 2015 I decided to write a blog about collecting and servicing vintage and antique clocks. There are some excellent clock blogs but many are commercial sites or professional horologists selling their services. I decided to design a blog that would appeal to the amateur clock collector/repairer. In my blog I stress that I am not a trained horologist but have accumulated enough knowledge over the years that I feel capable of addressing general clock issues. Therefore, my blog is not aimed at the professional repairer or restoration expert but the individual looking for specific information about a certain clock, those who have a particular problem with their clock and finally those who have a general interest in clock collecting and repair.

Junghans Crispi wall clcok with compensating pendulum
Fully restored Junghans time and strike wall clock, circa 1899

Cleaned, bushings replaced and tested
Time and strike movement on a test stand after servicing

I publish an average of seven blog articles per month on a variety of clock topics. I appeal to a wide change of subjects; some articles have a philosophical perspective, some detail the challenges of working on a specific clock, some present simple repair techniques for the beginner, general maintenance tips as well as articles of general interest. As a history buff I try to include a background history or provenance of the specific clock I am profiling or information about its maker.

Using a micrometer to check pivot
A micrometer is used to size a bushing for an escape wheel pivot

Blogging has also allowed me to combine my other interests, that of photography and traveling. My wife and I have had many interesting adventures seeking out unique clocks for my collection.

Mauthe mantel or “buffet” clock – can you tell me more about the maker?

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock similar to LL’s clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible response to your question

LL writes, “I just had my Mauthe 3-train Tambour mantel clock cleaned and repaired. This is the first I’ve heard it chime in decades! I know my brother bought in England in the eighties but that is all I know about it. Can you tell me any more about the maker?”

Mauthe would have called your mantel clock a “buffet clock”.

Mauthe clocks have an interesting history. In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded a company in Schwenningen, Germany to produce watch parts. At the end of the 1860’s Mauthe began to produce their own wall clocks (and movements). Some have been produced by home-work by so called “Gewerblern”, others have been produced in a more “industrial” way.

The Mauthe sons Christian (1845-1909) and James (1847-1915) took over in 1876. In 1886 Mauthe began manufacturing its own spring mechanism.

Around 1900, alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks and so called “Buffet Uhren” “Buffet clocks” were offered. The number of employees at that time went up to about 1,100 people. In 1904 the 3rd generation took over (Eugene Schreiber (1877-1939) – son of Christian Mauthe, Dr. Fritz Mauthe (1875-1951) – son of Jacob and Mauthe Alfred (1879-1911) – son of Jacob Mauthe.

In 1925 Mauthe announced a new trademark. It shows a right-looking eagle with outstretched wings, holding in its talons a three-part round plate with the letters F, M and S. My Mauthe mantel clock is unmarked. Early in 1930 the company produced about 45.000 clocks per week (with 2000 employees). About 60% were produced for export markets, England for example was one of those export markets.

Mauthe mantel clock sitting atop a Stromberg Carlson console radio
Mauthe mantel clock sitting atop a Stromberg Carlson console radio

In the mid-1930’s Mauthe started to manufacture their first wrist watches, some were even supplied to the German Army (“Wehrmacht”).

From 1946 on Mauthe re-started with the production of wrist watches. Though largely successful during the post war years, sales began to decline and the company eventually declared bankruptcy closing in 1976.

These precision German movements keep very good time and are certainly worth keeping and repairing. Enjoy yours now that it chimes.

The art of veneering – Part III – staining and finishing

This is Part III and the final part of a three part series on my first venture into veneer repair on an antique clock. Prior to beginning this project I spent many hours researching veneer repair, watching YouTube videos and seeking advice from my knowledgeable colleagues at NAWCC.

A recent acquisition, this is an 8-day Seth Thomas column and cornice time and strike shelf clock with sleigh front. It has a Plymouth (Hollow) lyre movement with a Thomaston Conn. label which means that the clock was made shortly before the incorporation of Thomaston in the early 1870s.

ST column and cornice , as found
ST column and cornice, as found

An example of veneer loss

I assessed this clock in Part I and described the steps in preparation for the veneer repair. In Part II I described the process of  applying veneer. Part III concerns the final finishing. Once the case work is complete I will focus my attention on servicing the movement, addressing the dial issues and replacing the clear glass with a floral pattern in the upper tablet.

The lighter coloured sections in the next photo are new veneer pieces. New veneer is found on the top of the cornice, the left cornice base, the right column support and sections of the bottom base.

Veneer repairs are complete
Veneer repairs (light areas) are complete

Finishing is the final phase of this project. In many respects this can be the most challenging phase of the project because once the hard work of applying veneer is complete the job means nothing if the new veneer does not match the old veneer. Although it can never be a perfect match the goal is to come as close as possible.

One finish seemed to stand out above the others

I conducted an experiment on leftover Brazilian Rosewood.

I selected three stains/finishes, Minwax Rosewood gel stain, Wipe-On Polyurethane satin clear coat and yellow shellac. I utilized various light sources to see the effect colour temperature had on the results and came to the conclusion that there was one finish that seemed to stand out above the others.

In the photo below there are three swatches on a piece of leftover veneer; Rosewood gel stain on the left, Wipe-On Polyurethane in the middle and on the right is yellow Shellac. Wipe-On Poly initially struck me as the best of the three; it is subtle while bringing out the character of the Brazilian Rosewood veneer while keeping that “aged” look but it is too muted. Rosewood gel is reddish and quite dark and looked very striking compared to the original Rosewood.

I concluded that yellow shellac was the best choice. Shellac darkens the veneer and accentuates the red tones nicely. Shellac would have been been the original finish when the clock was made and it is still the finish of choice today.

Comparing three stains
Comparing the three stains

Although veneering is a challenge, it is very rewarding work and I eagerly await my next project

New veneer above cornice, base of cornice is original though it looks like it was replaced
New veneer above cornice. The base of right cornice is original though it looks newer

Most of the base was replaced with new veneer
After two coats of shellac

After three coats of shellac, the case is complete

With dial and doors re-attached
With dial and doors re-attached, movement is out of the case at this stage

Although veneering is a challenge, it is very rewarding work and I eagerly awaiting my next veneering project.

Movement serviced and oiled
Lyre movement serviced and oiled

With the veneer repairs completed and the movement serviced there is still work to be done on this clock. I have decided that the gesso columns will stay as-is. Next is perfecting a tablet design for the access door to replace the clear glass, and finally, making a decision regarding the dial face; whether to leave as-is, find a suitable replacement or buy a new one from a clock supplier.

Seth Thomas column and cornice "Empire" style time and strike shelf clock
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike shelf clock

Lessons learned:

  • Allot a significant portion of time for the project, it is time-consuming and meticulous.
  • For an authentic repair hide glue must be used; avoid white or yellow carpenters glue though I would think there are rare times when it would be considered.
  • Hide glue:
    • must be a certain consistency to work properly. It should drip off the brush like honey. My hide glue was too thin at the start of the project.
    • will last a while in the fridge. Don’t cap the glue while it cools; condensation will hasten mold growth
  • Stay away from plastic based modern stains and finishes and go with shellac or any finish that would have been used at the time.
  • Some use filler to smooth the gaps between pieces of veneer, I did not use filler for this project; it is something I might consider next time.
  • A light sanding of the veneer is all you need, aggressive sanding will destroy the veneer (lesson learned).
  • Apply painters tape on the veneer before cutting; doing so eliminates ripping and tearing.
  • Use a sharp hobby knife
  • In future I would consider replacing larger sections rather than a patchwork of small pieces though that largely depends on how much veneer you have to work with.
  • Clamps are essential. Get various sizes of clamps and use wax paper between the clamp and the veneer, you will thank me!
  • Leave the area clamped for 24 hours. Although hide glue bonds quickly clamping for a day will ensure maximum adhesion.

This was a great project and I am confident that my next veneer project will be even better. Time, patience and perseverance are keys to a successful veneering project.

Waterbury 30 hour Ogee clock – servicing Part II

Waterbury clock movement

Waterbury OG clock
30-hour Waterbury Ogee with a beautiful veneered case

This 30 hour Ogee clock was purchased in the fall of 2017. I was eager to add this clock to my collection as it is the one particular style of clock that I do not have. From my research on Waterbury clocks I determined that it was made in or around 1870.

I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling; not ideal but reversible

While the case is in remarkable condition for the age of the clock the movement has suffered the ravages of time.

Simple 30 hour movement, top plate removed
Simple 30 hour movement, top plate removed

Testing over the course of a day or so revealed that clock would not run for more than a few minutes. The movement was taken out of its case and inspected to determine what needed to be done to get it to running condition.

I expected punch marks and there were a number. In the old days clock-makers would attempt to address pivot wear by closing the pivot holes with a stake or punch. Not ideal but a common practice. Bushing work was definitely required. The pivots, on the other hand, were in very good shape and polished up nicely.

Punching the bushing home
Punching the bushing home

My first task was to address the bushings. Ten bushings were installed, 5 on each plate. The front bushing work included the escape wheel bridge, always a challenging spot to bush. Next I addressed the other serious wear issue – the trundles on all of the lantern pinions.

Lantern pinions on the escape wheel
Lantern pinions on the escape wheel

The trundles on the lantern pinions were in bad shape as you can see in the photo above. The wear seen here was identical on all 4 lantern pinions. Notched trundles were not what I expected.

The trundle work was certainly the most interesting part of the repair. My experience with lantern pinion work is zero. After some research the method I selected was to hand drill through the top shroud to release the worn trundles.

Drilling through the shroud to release worn trundles
Drilling through the shroud to release worn trundles; I used a smaller bit than the one pictured here

After releasing the worn trundles I used 1.10mm pivot wire which is ideal for this purpose and matched the worn trundles precisely.

Test fitting of pivot wire before the wire is cut to proper length

I began with the fly. I drilled into the top shroud. I then cut 1.10mm pivot wire into the required lengths then rounded the ends with a cut-off disc on a  Dremel. After the fly was completed I addressed two more lantern pinions in the same way. I staked the shroud ends to seal the trundles inside.

With three done the escape wheel lantern pinion was next and that is when I ran into a snag. The escape wheel shroud is reversed (see photo below), so I cannot drill into the top shroud without a lot of guess work. Using needle nose pliers I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling. This is not ideal but it is reversible.

There does not appear to be a definitive answer as to whether the trundles should be free-moving or fixed although I suppose they are designed to roll with the gear teeth. At some future point the trundles on this wheel will need to be replaced.

So, how do you get at those trundles?
So, how do you get at those trundles?

The clock did not come with a pendulum bob so, a new one was attached. The suspension spring and leader was replaced to address a crimped spring that resulted in a wobbling pendulum bob. I used .09mm suspension spring in the correct length. The clock now runs well and it has completed a number of 30-hour cycles.

I suspect that this will be a clock that will not be run daily, the inevitable hassle of constantly winding a 30 hour clock but I am pleased that it is back in running order and I will ensure that is runs on special occasions.

2017 – Time to reflect, a year in summary

Pendulum bob for Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock

I am a retired educator living in Nova Scotia Canada. I collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest, interesting clocks and clock stories when I search for new acquisitions.

As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back

Baby Ben alarm clock with second hand
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand

In the spring of 2015 I began my journey into blogging. The first few months of writing about clocks, clock collecting and repair were very challenging. How could I interest those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but have just a passing interest? As time went by I began to realize that there was plenty to write about, that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and that there is much to learn.

This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the knowledge gained from those experiences.

Cuckoo clock
Cuckoo clock

As I write this article my blog has over 49,000 total views, 33% from United States, 17% from Canada and the remainder from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries. The top 5 articles this year were:

  1. Mauthe Mantel Clock
  2. Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
  3. What is my clock worth?
  4. How to wind a mechanical clock
  5. U.M. Muller Box Clock

As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. In the past year alone viewership has doubled. My visitors average 1.8 articles per visit with an average of 88 views on a typical day in 2017. November and December peaked at 100+ views per day.

Swiss made smoothing broaches
Swiss made smoothing broaches

Providing enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return is always a challenge. I post 7 articles a month, sometimes one or two extra, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest. I also inject historical horological context as much as possible.

I receive about 30+ comments per month on average. All comments and inquiries are welcomed. Interesting comments come from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, strategies for repair and information about the history of their clock. All questions are answered to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional.

one-weight Vienna wall clock
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock, circa 1870

In 2018 my intent is to continue to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as profiling my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also plan to explore special areas of interest.

Future articles include, “Letting a clock sit without running”, “Mercedes clock – not made by the car folks”, my 4th Arthur Pequegnat clock, a second installment of the Waterbury Ogee 30 hour clock, a mini New Haven Ogee that has some curious modifications, how to set up your grandfather clock, “What style clock do I have?” and more Crazy Clock Ads.

Ingraham Huron mantel clock circa 1878
Ingraham Huron mantel clock circa 1878

Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock

Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note. If you like what you are reading express “Like” it at the end of each article.

Thanks for your comments, your encouragement and your continued support.

 

 

E. N. Welch Whittier model parlor clock Part IV – final word

Dial removed showing time and strike movement

Clock displayed in antique shop
EN Welch time and strike parlour clock displayed in an antique shop

In a previous article I described some of the challenges I had with this E.N. Welch clock movement.

The clock ran for about 48 hours and suddenly stopped. It seems that every time I think everything is going well, something else crops up.  I dis-assembled the movement (again) and installed three more bushings, one of which is on the escape wheel bridge which I noticed had a fair amount of play. Perhaps the vertical motion of the EW was causing the clock to stop. The other two bushings were installed on the third wheel, back and front. I have decided to hold off addressing the EW teeth if the bushing work I have done has solved the stoppage issue.

I was hoping to wrap the servicing up fairly quickly but unanticipated problems continued to crop up. Having completed the work mentioned above I could see that things were beginning to change for the better.

Washer around centre cannon
Shortly after taken from the case. A very dirty movement with many issues

The time side ran strongly for eight days after which I reinstalled the strike train. Here is the movement running on a test stand.

Cleaned, bushings replaced and tested
Cleaned and free of rust, bushings installed and tested

Setting up the strike side required manipulating some of the lever wires which were moved out of position by the previous owner, for whatever reason. A previous repair/adjustment resulted in the lifting levers bent back into the case and the count lever pushed in an upwards orientation. As a result I had to bend the levers back into their original positions.

Levers
From left; hammer lever, count lever, lifting lever

Here is the movement installed back into its case.

E. N. Welsh Whittier model
E. N. Welsh Whittier model

It should now run reliably for years to come. A frustrating project with a satisfying ending.

So you want to fix a mechanical clock – Part I – a beginner’s toolkit

4 and 5 prong keys and singles

Tools are essential for clock repair because they enable precision and accuracy, which are critical when working with delicate mechanisms and intricate components. Let’s identify the key reasons.

Antique and vintage clocks can lose significant value if repaired improperly. Using the right tools minimizes the risk of damage, preserving their historical and monetary worth. The right tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, and tweezers, allow you to handle small parts without causing damage. Specialized tools ensure components are handled carefully and correctly.

Proper tools make the repair process faster and more straightforward. For beginners, having the right tools helps build confidence and competence. They allow you to focus on understanding clock mechanisms without being hindered by improper equipment.

This article will describe some of the tools required to tackle the repair and/or cleaning of mechanical clocks.

Based on years of clock repair experience, I recommend the following essential tools for any beginner’s toolkit. While some of these tools can be sourced from your local hardware store, specialty items will need to be ordered from clock supply companies such as Timesavers (USA), Perrin (Canada), or Meadows and Passmore (UK).

Whenever possible, avoid purchasing tools from craft shops, as their prices are often significantly higher. They are ideal for paint and quality paintbrushes but they tend to charge much higher prices for general-purpose tools. A ball peen hammer bought at a hardware store, for instance, costs half as much as one found in a craft shop.

A suggested list of items

Keys: clock keys come in many different sizes. You must use the correct key for the winding arbours of your clock. The pronged keys in the photo below will fit a multitude of arbours.

4 and 5 prong keys and singles
4 and 5 prong keys and singles

Magnifier: They are available in various strengths and allow a much closer view of your work.

Magnifier
Magnifier

Work light: Illuminates your work, this one articulates and has a magnifier. I have since replaced this light with an LED one. The lamp burnt out and the cost of the fluorescent lamp was more than the entire lamp. Plus the new LED lamp has light temperature and intensity controls.

Worklight
Work-light

Pliers: A variety of pliers to hold onto your work, release taper pins, tighten nuts, and cut wires. The green handle pliers are non-serrated (flat-nose).

Assorted pliers
Assorted pliers

Hammers: A ball peen hammer is very useful (not pictured). The craft clip holder is useful for steadying items that are to be soldered.

Hammers and craft clip
Hammers and craft clip

Files: Variety of sizes to help shape or file down anything on a movement. Avoid inexpensive Chinses files and spend a little more on quality ones.

Files
Files

Tweezers: Getting into tight situations, grabbing small parts, and positioning parts into place are typical uses for tweezers

Tweezers
Tweezers

Level: To find the correct beat the movement (clock) must be level.

Level
Level

Spring clamps: To restrain the power of the mainspring. The flat clamp (upper right) is for those mainsprings which do not leave a lot of working room. Otherwise, the other round clamps are good for most applications. I prefer the flat clamps.

Assorted clamps
Assorted clamps

Screwdrivers: Always handy to remove movements from cases, loosen bolts, and pry parts.

Screwdrivers and box wrench
Screwdrivers and box wrench

Letdown set: Before working on a movement the mainsprings must be let down or restrained in their clamps. The letdown key is the safest method of letting down the mainsprings. Inserts cover most arbour sizes.

Letdown set
4-piece letdown set, #5-6, #7-8, #10, #12

Hand reamers and broaches (cutting and smoothing): For bushing clocks when you cannot afford the luxury of a bushing machine. Cutting and smoothing broaches are useful for enlarging a new bushing when tight tolerances are required. They come in assorted sizes.

cutting and smoothing broaches
cutting and smoothing broaches

Cotton swabs: A variety of cleaning uses.

Cotton swabs
Cotton swabs

Clock oil: Once the movement is apart and cleaned it must be re-assembled and then oiled before use. The oil, whether it is conventional or synthetic, must be specifically designed for a clock movement.

Clock pivot oil
Clock pivot oil

Toothpicks: For cleaning and “pegging out” bushings on a movement

Toothpicks
Toothpicks

Clock stand: Once the movement has been re-assembled it is tested outside the case for a short period. Gene’s movement stand is a fully adjustable test stand.

Clock movement stand
Gene’s clock movement stand

For those handy with a hammer and saw a stand can be made at home with whatever lumber is at hand.

Testing the Kienzle movement on a makeshift test stand
Testing a movement on a home-built test stand

Camera: At every part of the process a digital camera can record critical stages in assembling and disassembling a movement. I use a 50mm macro lens for close work. A cellphone is a perfectly acceptable alternative but one with good macro capabilities is preferred.

Digital Camera
Digital Camera

Electronic Caliper: Indispensable for measuring the thickness of anything be it springs, pivots, plates, and so on. Available at a clock supply house or save a little money and buy the same tool from a retail outlet such as  Canadian Tire in Canada.

Using a micrometer to check pivot
Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter

Pivot locator: It is an excellent tool for aligning pivots with their holes during assembly.

Build your set of tools little by little to spread the cost. You may already have some of the items I’ve mentioned but buy what you need when you need it. As for those specialized tools, broaches for example, it pays to spend a little extra for better quality.

These are the tools you require to start your journey into clock repair. If you have a tool (or tools) you feel is indispensable for the beginning clock-maker please let me know.

In Part II I will describe tools for those who would wish to advance their skills in clock repair.

E. N. Welch Whittier model parlor clock Part III – more issues than anticipated

Barely readable label

E. N. Welsh Whittier model
E. N. Welch Whittier parlour clock

A very dirty and oily movement.
A very dirty, oily and rusty movement

This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on

This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on. The case, tablet and dial face are in beautiful condition and nicely preserved requiring little or no work at all to restore to its former glory but the movement is another story. A past owner either sprayed oil on the movement or dipped it in some kind of lubricant on more than one occasion. The oil was gooey, sticky and seemingly baked on. It required several washings, vigorous scrubbing with a brass brush, ultrasonic cleaning and even #0000 steel wool. I finally got most of the grime, dirt and rust off the movement.

Having so much solder on a movement is a little discouraging and I often wonder what problems lie beneath. There was solder on the centre plate nut, solder on the front and back plate, 4th wheel on the strike side and solder around the hour cannon. I decided to leave the solder on the hour cannon for now. However unsightly, I may not remove it.

Solder around fourth wheel
Solder around fourth wheel

More solder
More solder

Washer around centre cannon
Soldered washer around centre cannon

The solder was removed with a butane torch. Expecting bad bushing repairs and/or punch marks I found nothing! I also removed the solder around the centre nut and found that the nut was not stripped as I initially suspected. I am puzzled.

Solder removed front plate
Solder removed front plate

Solder removed back plate
Solder removed back plate

Here is a video describing my plan to address bushing work.

In the video I mentioned the installation of eight bushings. I installed seven bushings initially but installed more later on as I discovered other power issues. One is always tempted to bush everything in a movement. Some clock-makers tend to bush everything because the one thing they do not want is the clock coming back. I understand that but I decided to take a cautious approach for this movement and bush what I felt was absolutely required.

Punching the bushing home
Tapping the bushing home

After cleaning the movement the pivots were polished and pivot holes pegged. Next is assembly. I have mentioned this before that I do not have much luck getting the strike side to function on the first go-around. It usually takes me two or three attempts.

Day 2

Although I was unable to set up the strike setup correctly the principle problem was the poorly running time train. After 5-10 minutes it would stop. Suspecting a power issue I looked for bent arbours, troublesome trundles or worn gear teeth and found nothing.

However, I found considerable play in the centre arbour. Suspecting poor meshing of the main wheel with the centre arbour gear I installed the 8th bushing (back plate) then removed the strike side entirely to focus on the time train issue. The movement immediately ran but the beat was inconsistent.

A “drifting” beat (in beat and then drifts out of beat, then in-beat) usually indicates an issue with the escape wheel teeth or the escape wheel arbour. Some of the EW (escape wheel) teeth have slightly bent tips but before I straighten them I wanted to determine if there were other reasons for the stoppage.

Day 3

The clock ran for about 48 hours and suddenly stopped. I dis-assembled the movement (again) and installed three more bushings, one on the escape wheel bridge which I noticed had a fair amount of pivot wear, the other two on the third wheel, back and front mostly for insurance. I surmised that vertical motion of the EW might be causing the inconsistent beat leading to the eventual stoppage. Addressing the bent tips on the EW teeth may come later if these measures do not cure the problem.

Day 4

The time side is settling down and I am now able to get several days running without a stoppage. The beat is now consistent.

Day 5

I am going to let this clock run for a week or so before I reinstall the strike train just to be sure that there are no other power issues. I was hoping to wrap this service up fairly quickly but unanticipated problems are slowing me down.

I’ll give my final thoughts in a post in Part IV, two weeks time.

Is clock collecting part of the counter-technology revolution?

Bushing installed on escape wheel arbour

Is clock collecting (and repair) part of the counter-technology revolution?

Many years ago, social scientists predicted with the onset of modern technology it would sap us of our knowledge. Our brains would simply melt away. Concentration and initiative would be sucked out of us. Why would you need to know anything if it is readily available at your fingertips? How often do you hear the phrase, “just google it”. Sadly, it has become an integral part of our lexicon.

People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves

The term counter-technology is not a term I invented. I found it mentioned in a car magazine article some time ago. Many people are collecting and repairing antique cars more than ever. Why? Reliving past memories? Getting your hands dirty. Rejecting the modern world?

Has the analogue world returned? Yes and no. Wine and beer making has become a huge industry and there seem to be mom and pop microbreweries everywhere, antique furniture purchases have increased dramatically, backyard chicken coops are popping up everywhere, fountain pen collecting is a “new” thing, vinyl records are spinning back and stamp collecting is returning with renewed vigor.

Retro is in. But is is not just that! It is a statement. People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves. We all know the value and satisfaction of pursuing a simpler way of life but at the same time we still want to feel connected to our busy modern world. We want both. This is our inevitable response to the new digital world. We are pushing back but just enough to satisfy our needs by remaining connected with the past but we still feel the need to be plugged in.

However, every now and then we feel the need to dis-engage. Digital detoxification. It’s a thing. Somehow we want to wash the digital world from our lives, however briefly. I spend summers at our family cottage in Quebec (Canada). There is no Internet and I am totally fine with that. But what’s the first thing I do when I return home? You got it!

You too can be saved
You too can be saved

Simplicity breeds complexity

To truly embrace the analogue world the mechanical clock is my personal statement. Not only do I collect antique and vintage clocks I repair them as well. As readers know I am not a trained horologist but I love the challenge of repairing a clock and I love accumulating knowledge in the pursuit of my hobby. Needless to say I am not always successful and my office has a few notable failures. I am fine with that. Failure breeds learning. It is my response to the increasing pressures of the digital world. It is my response to our increasingly complicated world. Simplicity breeds complexity.

Like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once

It took years to learn the skills necessary to repair this Sessions Westminster A Westminster chime clock
It took 2 years to learn the skills necessary to repair this Sessions Westminster A chime clock

Analogue verses digital. It is a question of balance, like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once. I admire people who have “analogue” hobbies but I especially admire those who remain connected to our modern world by maintaining a delicate balance between both.

 

Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time – a service is long overdue

Clock face Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock

Hallway clock
Hallway clock – Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time

I wrote about this clock in 2015. The Canadian Time clock was made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock company of Kitchener, Ontario. The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors and often command high prices on online for-sale sites.

Former railway clock from a station in Pictou County, Nova Scotia
Former railway clock from a station in Pictou County, Nova Scotia (Canada)

Label on back board

The clock was made after 1917 in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada). Clocks made before 1917 had the word “Berlin” on the dial face. Kitchener was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 and the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the decision was made to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario. Though it is impossible to determine the exact year this clock was made my guess is just prior to 1941 before the company closed it’s doors.

It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement

The clock was purchased in Sept 2013 and after 3 1/2 years it is overdue for servicing.

Movement showing punch marks as indicated by arrows
Movement showing punch marks (arrows)

It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement, specifically around the pivot holes as one would expect. I am one of those who believe that a punch should never be used on a clock movement. Most, including myself, would consider it a quick and easy shortcut that is not designed to extent the life of the clock in any appreciable manner. Because punching weakens the side wall of the pivot hole those two pivot holes in particular are prime examples of the need for bushings. In total the clock required 5 bushings. The second wheel pivot hole was worn the most. One back plate bushing was required for the escape wheel arbour.

Time only movement
Time only movement

Time only movement are relatively simple to work on and for the novice this is the first kind of movement you should tackle. Whenever working on a clock be sure to take as many photos as you can; you will need them if you get stuck re-assembling the movement. On this clock the 3rd and 4th wheels look exactly the same but in fact differ slightly in height. Photos taken at the right angles will easily confirm the difference.

Mainspring cleaned and inspected
Mainspring cleaned and inspected

A strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock; additional screw holes

The mainspring is in excellent condition and might have been a replacement at some point in the clock’s life. I had some difficulty re-hooking the arbour to the spring and had to use pliers to bend it, but just a little.

I found one strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock. There are additional screw holes in the back board leading me to believe that the clock might have had another type of Pequegnat movement which would mean that the current movement is a replacement. Possible reasons, a catastrophic failure of the original movement, a conversion from a time and strike movement to a time-only clock (requiring a new dial) – it is anyone’s guess. A mystery nonetheless.

Servicing this clock took less than a day. Testing takes a couple of weeks. With new bushings in place and an oiling this clock should run reliably for years to come.

I began keeping a detailed log of clock repairs noting, in particular, when the movement was last oiled so that I do not wait too long between inspection and oiling.

 

The schoolhouse clock that was never called the schoolhouse clock

Sessions Drop Octagon bob

Schoolhouse clock
What most people visualize as the Schoolhouse clock

My recent acquisition of another schoolhouse clock stimulated my curiosity and prompted me to do some research on the origin of the name. In this article I will describe my thoughts on how the schoolhouse clock came to be and my most recent Sessions wall clock purchase.

During my research I found it very interesting that little can be found regarding the history of the schoolhouse clock. I realize that many older readers growing up in the rural areas of Canada and elsewhere in North American have fond memories of the one-room schoolhouse with a large clock in either the front or the back of a classroom. I did not live that experience rather, when I was young and attending a large urban school the Simplex master / slave clock is the one I remember best.

The schoolhouse clock that I bought recently adds to my modest collection of three schoolhouse clocks. Given that I spent many years as an educator, it seems only fitting that I would have an interest in schoolhouse clocks. My schoolhouse clocks are all a similar style; short drop octagon, constructed of oak, brass dial bezel, bottom glazed access sash, 12 inch dial or 9 inches as in this case of this clock and the Waterbury pictured below. Although 9 inch clocks were used in schoolhouses they were also found in office or workplace settings.

They were not called a schoolhouse clock when they were made

Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American school houses because of their larger, easy to read dials. These distinctive clocks were hung in many schools rooms across Canada. The majority had simple but tough time-only movements and some even came with a calendar function. Occasionally they were ordered with time and strike movements but the cheapest and most popular versions were time-only. This type of clock had a very utilitarian look and function.

They were not always called schoolhouse clocks. None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them and are either described as a”drop Octagon” in the case of this Sessions or have a specific model name. The term schoolhouse clock was not applied to them when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. If a particular style was ordered by a school authority makers might have informally described them as clocks for schools or “school clocks”. In any event, the term has become a permanent part of the clock collector language.

Label on back of Sessions clock
Label on back of Sessions clock

With a swinging pendulum visible from a distance the clock can easily be seen running and the open-door bottom access sash allowed for restarting and adjusting the rate. In some clock collecting circles it is said that schoolhouse clocks are a derivative of the English drop dial fusee clock, an example of which can be seen here. Drop dials were produced in the late 18th through to the 19th century and closely resembled the schoolhouse clock. Unlike spring-driven schoolhouse clocks, fusee clocks have conical construction from which a chain or gut-line is pulled by the mainspring barrel allowing the power of the mainspring to be released evenly thus assuring better accuracy.

When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the seller this question. “How much do you know about this clock?”

When I am in the process of buying a clock I always ask the question. “How much do you know about this clock?”. I always ask this question because I am interested in a clock’s provenance and some of the stories are quite intriguing. The seller, a man in his late fifties, thought about it for a moment and said, “Well, I’ve had it since I was 14”. The clock came out of a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in a small town called Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada).  However, when I first saw the clock I said to him, “It looks like a nice office clock”. The seller quickly corrected me and said, “It’s a schoolhouse clock”. “It runs for a little bit and then stops, maybe you can do something with it”, he added.

It is a 1920’s vintage Sessions Drop Octagon wall clock. It has a solid medium dark oak case with original hands, ornate pressed brass pendulum bob, solid brass bezel, 80% of an intact label on backboard, tin dial pan and stenciled lower glazing on the sash. The paper dial is original but it is heavily “foxed”. The movement is 8-day time only. The dimensions of the clock are a 9″ diameter dial, 19″ high,  13 1/2″ wide by 4″ deep. It is in reasonably good condition given it’s age and for $20 it was quite a bargain. It is also intact; there are no missing or broken pieces.

sessions-drop-octogon time-only movement
Sessions time-only movement

I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.

I took it home, hung it on the wall and true to what the seller said it would run less than a minute and stop. I noticed a rubbing sound around the pendulum area as it was running. The pendulum bob was hitting against the inside front of the case. I took the movement out and observed a bent crutch rod, corrected it, put it on a test stand and it ran immediately. As expected the movement had quite a bit of grime and required attention but it ran for a day before I took it apart for a thorough servicing. I don’t think this clock has been run in quite some time.

I found it curious that the suspension spring was soldered where the spring hooks into the top block. It likely kept slipping off and solder was used to keep it in place. In any event, the spring cannot be taken out without first removing the solder!  The clock is in very good overall condition for it’s age and the movement was not as dirty as I first thought. The pivots are in decent condition for the most part and there is minimal wear overall. The movement was disassembled, cleaned and in the process I decided to install two bushings for added insurance, one on the escape wheel (front plate) and the other on an intermediate wheel (front plate). The movement was tested, put in beat and reinstalled back into it’s case.

I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being.

The dial has many brownish spots as you can see in the next photo. The clock had to have been in a moist environment for a long period for the paper to discolour. My two options are, one, leave as is or, two, replace with a paper dial. I may replace the paper dial but I am going to see if I can live with it for the time being. The brass bezel cleaned up well but the exposed tin surrounding the paper dial has blackish areas which I managed to reduce with CLR but could not totally eliminate. Of course, I later learned that CLR is really not appropriate for this purpose as it is an acid.

clock face showing rust staining
Dial showing rust staining

The case has years of grime which was easily remedied with Murphy’s soap and water. It cleaned up very nicely. Following the cleaning I gave the case a light coat of shellac to restore the luster of the oak. It looks good and it runs well.

My other drop octagon clocks are a Waterbury Arion,  an unknown Ansonia and an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II.

rs-bezel-and-glass-on-a-waterbury-_1
This Waterbury Arion is 19 inches long

RS April 16
Ansonia short drop octagon, model unknown, 12 inch dial

AP repaired_3
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II, 12 inch dial

Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on.

Sessions Drop Octagon
Repaired Sessions Drop Octagon clock

Time-only movements are the easiest to work on and a very good movement to learn on. If you are a beginner in clock collecting and repair clocks such as this are satisfying clocks to work on and presents few challenges. I am happy that I managed to bring this particular clock back to it’s former schoolhouse glory.

The term schoolhouse clock is a term that was not applied when they were made but came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings by later collectors. The schoolhouse clock is such an endearing name that when one thinks of a schoolhouse clock the memory of these specific styles of clock immediately comes to mind.

Servicing a Sessions American No. 2 mantel clock Part IV

Using a micrometer to check pivot

In this fourth and final entry of the series I will discuss bushing work, re-assembly and finally, testing and mounting the movement back into it’s case. Part I of this series can be found here, Part II here and Part III here,

Once the pivots are inspected, cleaned and polished it is now time to install any bushings required as result of careful inspection.

Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine

I acquired a Bergeon Bushing Machine in the spring of this year (2016). As I mentioned in Part III, some may prefer to bush by hand which I think is commendable but I have decided to go the bushing machine route. In the last few months I have been using and learning its many tools. It comes with a set of chucks and reamers some of which (right side rear) are a bit of a mystery to me. I cannot see using any of the large reamers any time soon though I assume that if I am working on tall-case clocks which have larger movements they would come in handy.

Chucks and reamers
Chucks and reamers

First is selecting the correct bushing using a micrometer to measure the diameter of the pivot. Then, I select the proper bushing from my Bergeon assortment kit.

Using a micrometer to check pivot
Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter on the escape wheel

The bushing I have selected for the escape wheel pivot (measured at 1.46 mm) has a depth of 2 mm, an outside diameter of 3.5 mm and a pivot hole of 1.5 mm.  In the next photo I am positioning it on top of the 3.47 mm. hole that I have just just “drilled” using one of the reamers. The outside diameter of the bushing is slightly larger allowing for a tight friction fit.

Punching the bushing home
Positioning the bushing on the Bergeon Bushing Machine

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Bushing installed

Once I have selected the correct bushing I test it on the pivot for fit and then I position it over the pivot hole and use a small hammer with it’s nylon end to tap the top of the bushing machine centre shaft lightly until the bushing is properly seated and level with the plate ensuring that the oil sink faces the outside of the plate.

New bushing installed
New bushing installed with oil sink on the outside of the plate

To check proper fitment of the motion works bushings/pivots, I assemble all the wheels on that side (both plates), check for a smooth action and determine if any additional reaming/smoothing is required. I do the same for the strike side.

Once all the bushing work is completed and I am satisfied that each bushing fits correctly and operates smoothly, I re-assemble the mainsprings, wheels and levers and then re-attach the back plate using the five plate screws. We each have our own method of re-attaching the back plate but I work from the bottom up, that is, from the mainsprings. Once I have the mainsprings in place I immediately install the bottom 2 plate screws (loosely) and then work from the motion works side to the strike side using a pivot locator tool, if necessary, to coax the pivots into their respective holes.

Trains and levers ready for the front plate
Trains and levers ready for the front plate

Positioning the various levers can be a bit frustrating because those that have helper springs seem to slip out of their pivot holes easily as you are putting the plates together. Perseverance is certainly the key.

The one difficulty I had was adjusting the synchronization of the count and drop levers, that is, getting the drop lever to sit in the cam while I adjusted the locking lever position. The clock must be completely assembled at this point and once together loosen or take off the nearest pillar nut and pry the plates apart to take out both the flywheel and the locking wheel. Once out, the locking wheel can be re-positioned by moving the pin on the wheel so it rests on the locking lever. Once this is completed, re-install the flywheel. This is basically a trial and error process and I never seem to get it right the first time.

My only error in the first go-around was not restraining the strike mainspring during this procedure. While spinning wildly the strike mainspring flattened the protrusions off the cam that allows the hammer strike. Momentary panic! Once bent back into shape everything was fine. Naturally, I secured the mainspring for my second successful attempt.

My reference for these adjustments is Steven Conover’s Striking Clock Repair Guide which is an invaluable guide to striking American clocks.

Once the parts are re-assembled it is on to the final testing phase which takes days (and weeks, perhaps) as the clock is being carefully regulated. The following video shows the movement on a test stand (in this case, Gene’s Test Movement Stand). The sound of the pallet on the escape wheel is very quiet; you are hearing other clocks in this room. The clock is in beat and in the video you can see the movement of the escape wheel from various perspectives.

Sessions American No. 2
The movement is returned to it’s case

Once testing and regulating is completed and I am satisfied the clock will run reliably for 8 days I return it to it’s case. There are only 4 mounting screws. You may have to re-position the coil gong by loosening the adjustment nut on bottom of case to get that satisfying strike sound.

This attractive little Sessions American No. 2 time and strike mantel clock has now been serviced. It required 5 bushings and should run reliably for the next 3-5 years.

Servicing a Sessions American No. 2 mantel clock Part II

Marking the count wheel

Sessions American No. 2
Sessions American No. 2 time and strike

Top plate is off
Top plate is off

This is  Part II of the Sessions American No. 2 servicing. As I mentioned in my last blog entry (Part I) this clock was running but is in need of a little attention. This is a fairly simple clock to work on for an American time and strike movement. I cannot stress enough that photos are so important when working on clocks! They are a valuable reference which take a lot of the guessing out of re-assembly.

The clock is now ready for the parts to be taken off, organized in a parts container, inspected, cleaned and serviced.

Time side spring is removed
Motion works mainspring is removed

X marks pivot holes that need to be bushed
X marks pivot holes that need to be bushed

This the back plate. No bushings have been installed but following my inspection a number of bushings are required, three in this particular corner. The topmost “X” is the location of the escape wheel. I always mark the suspect pivot holes with a marker so that I know what work needs to be performed on those specific pivot holes.

Dis-assembly is rarely an issue when working on these clocks. However, the helper springs (see arrow below) can be damaged and although they look like they might have been added by later clock repair they are indeed part of the original design and assembly of the movement and perform a vital function.  Be very careful with them though if broken they can be replaced. The helper springs and levers can be frustrating to work with particularly when lining up the levers correctly and re-positioning the helper springs upon re-assembly.

Removing lever with helper spring
Removing count wheel lever/helper spring

Removing the count wheel
Removing the count wheel

The count wheel is secured by this washer. make sure it goes back in the same way it came out.

Marking the count wheel
Marking the count wheel

Putting the count wheel in backwards will not stop the clock but it will count down the hours, not good! Not making the same mistake again I mark the count wheel so that I know that it goes in right the first time.

Time and strike parts
Motion works and strike parts separated

We each have our own way of doing things but I find it very helpful to separate the time and strike sides prior to re-assembly. It avoids confusion and makes for a more simplified process when working on your clock.

Now that the clock is disassembled it now time for further inspection, cleaning, installing bushings, and polishing the pivots which you will find in Part III.

Servicing a Sessions American No. 2 mantel clock, Part I

Sessions American No. 2
Sessions American No. 2

I am going to take you, the reader, through the process I follow when servicing a clock. There will be several posts in this series. I am not a trained expert in clock repair, nor do I do this for profit and have learned most of what I know through trial and error, careful study and of course, listening to the advice of many experts and newfound friends on the forum site at NAWCC.

If you into clock collecting you’ve probably seen one of these mantel clocks at one time or another in your travels. Literally thousands were made. This attractive little mission styled oak-cased time and strike mantel clock is a Sessions “American No. 2” dating from 1921 according to Trans Sessions book, page 121.

When I opened the back access panel to service the movement I discovered an inscription which reads, “Jim A. Kennedy, Nov 3/63, a clear, cold nite”. One can only imagine that on that particular clear, cold night, Jim A. Kennedy was doing some work on this lovely clock. It does not say where Jim lived but Jim, wherever you are and if you are still with us, your clock lives on.

Although this clock has been running steadily since I acquired it about two years ago, the time is right to put it on the workbench. American made clocks like this tend to run on and on despite requiring much needed bushing work and this one is no exception, but now it needs some loving.

I took the movement out of it’s case and examined it closely. Fortunately it has not been botched by poor repairs over the years that one sees from time to time. Things looked good, no surprises. Although no bushings have been installed on the top (back) plate there were five bushings that were installed on the bottom (front) plate at some point in this clock’s life, perhaps on that cold, clear evening in November. My initial inspection reveals that there is wear in some pivot holes and that six bushings must be installed on the back plate and of the five previously installed bushings on the front plate, two need to be replaced and at least one new bushing is required on the pallet arbor.

Although the movement appears clean at first glance it really is very dirty. This is an example of the sludge (indicated by the arrow) that has built up in this particular pivot over the years. There are other such examples on this movement.

top plate showing a build-up of dirt around a pivot hole
Top plate showing a build-up of dirt around a pivot hole

Once I tear it down completely I will be able to determine the condition of the pivots and other moving parts. I intend to clean the entire clock and clean/oil the springs as well as replace/install the aforementioned bushings. My first impression is that the mainsprings are in good condition. The clock easily ran eight days on a wind. The clicks are another matter. At least one looks like it needs replacement. Sessions clocks are notorious for their bad clicks but to put things in perspective the clicks have been in this clock likely since it was made (or perhaps 1961).

Time and strike movement with single hammer strike on a coiled gong
Time and strike movement with single hammer strike on a coiled gong

The escape wheel teeth may need to be filed but I will determine if filing is required once I inspect it more thoroughly.

escape wheel tooth tips
Escape wheel tooth tips

Safety first. The first task other than taking the suspension spring/rod/bob off the movement is to secure the mainsprings using mainspring clamps that are available at any clock supply store. Mainsprings can be very dangerous and it is important to contain their power when working on a clock. I always wear eye protection and leather work gloves before I let the mainsprings down with a let down key. Once you’ve released the clock from the ratchet by moving the retaining spring out of the way, the power of the spring is transferred to the let down key which allows one to gently release it until it is contained in the C-clamp. After the springs are restrained you can safely disassemble the clock.

Let down key and C-clamp
Let down key and C-clamp

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Movement on stands
Movement on stands

The clock is now ready to be disassembled. Tune into Part II where I will post photos of the complete disassembly stage and report on what further work needs to be done.

Clock Repair Tools

RS Brandon
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon time only wall clock

It is time to buy the tools I need for clock repair. I already have a number of basic tools to get me started; pliers, letdown chucks, screwdrivers, etc.

However, my first significant tool is an Ollie Baker Mainspring Winder which arrived from the USA today. It is pictured below. The Ollie Baker comes with an assortment of collars for every size of mainspring.

Olie Baker spring winder
Olie Baker spring winder

The spring winder will enable me to inspect, clean, and re-install barreled or open springs on all the clocks I will be servicing. My first impression is that it is a robust and well-machined tool that will give years of service. Indeed, one of the most important tools for clock repair enthusiasts is the spring-winder.

I also ordered bushing kit #5488 from Perrins today which will enable me to have the bushings I need in order to use the Bergeon Bushing Machine that I will purchase later on this year.

The Bergeon Bushing tool is “Swiss made” and exudes quality. In every clock, due to considerable wear, the plates have to be bushed from time to time. This tool allows the bushing of plates of various sizes. The kit includes driving punches, centering bit, stakes, and reamers.  I can bush by hand which some folks do by using appropriate reamers and files but I know that a bushing machine is a must-have. The first photo shows a clock movement that I had professionally bushed. It required 5 bushings in all in addition to cleaning and oiling and it runs very well.

With these tools, I can progress more seriously into this most interesting hobby.

Smiths Enfield Mantel Clock

Restoring and repairing antique clocks is a rewarding and sometimes challenging journey, and my latest project has been no exception. I recently acquired a time-and-strike mantel clock from the Enfield Clock Company, a British manufacturer known for its utilitarian designs, especially post-war.

Smiths Enfield time and strike mantel clock

In this article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing the steps I’ve taken so far, the challenges I’ve faced, and what I’ve learned along the way.

The Enfield Clock Co. & Association with Smiths

The Enfield Clock Company’s history is as intriguing as the clocks they produced. Established in 1929, Enfield became known for its mass-produced timepieces, manufactured using modern assembly line techniques inspired by American factory systems.

By the early 1930s, Enfield was manufacturing clock movements that were sold wholesale, eventually leading to the formation of the Smiths Enfield brand after the company was sold to Smiths Industries in 1933. The clocks, particularly those produced in the 1950s, reflected the utilitarian, post-war aesthetic of the time.

Initial Observations

When I first examined the clock, I could tell that it had been worked on by someone with a tinkerer’s touch, rather than a skilled clockmaker. Although its striking mechanism sounded great and the clock was visually appealing, I knew it required a thorough service to restore its functionality.

This clock occasionally stopped for no apparent reason and was difficult to keep in beat, prompting me to learn more about clock repair. The movement was relatively simple, with two trains, so I set out to clean and service it. As I worked through the process, I encountered some challenges, including an unhooked mainspring and worn pivot holes, but I made progress nonetheless. Though I had to delay some repairs due to my limited experience, I gained valuable insights into the inner workings of this timepiece and look forward to continuing the restoration.

Two pivot holes on the back plate were a little worn but not enough to cause any issues at this time. However, since I know very little about bushing work at this point I think it wise to put off repairs until I know how to do the work. A bushing machine is on the horizon but limited funds do not permit me to tackle those more in-depth repairs just yet. Anyway, back to the movement.

Movement showing hammer, and pendulum leader and bob

While reassembling the strike side the mainspring unhooked. I am not sure why. I was prepared to disassemble the movement to reattach the mainspring but a little wiggling corrected the problem.  Once the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner and the parts were dried, the movement was assembled and oiled. There are two adjusting two screws on either side of the verge that determine the correct height between the pallets and the escape wheel. Through trial and error, I was able to get a good pendulum swing and a steady beat.

Tricky clip

I decided not to re-attach the 2 clips just yet since it would not take much to break them. Only after the clock has been running reliably and striking correctly will I reattach the clips.

Two ratchets

Not a good design in my view and I wonder if these clocks were ever meant to be worked on after they left the factory.

In the next article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing additional steps I’ve taken so, the challenges I’ve faced with this project, and what I’ve learned along the way.

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