As a clock repairer, there are several compelling reasons to keep the original mainsprings if they are still in good condition.
Keeping the original mainsprings ensures that the clock remains as close to its original condition as possible. Collectors and enthusiasts often value clocks with original parts, as they maintain the authenticity and historical significance of the clock.
Older brass mainsprings are not replaceable
Many older mainsprings were made with higher-quality steel and manufacturing techniques and modern replacements may not be of the same quality. Original springs, if well-preserved, may outperform modern equivalents in terms of durability and performance.
Consider the original design of the movement and how it is powered. The original mainspring is designed specifically for the clock’s movement, ensuring the proper balance of power delivery and running time. Replacements, even when sized correctly, may not deliver power consistently due to slight variations in material and design.
Modern mainsprings can sometimes deliver too much power, especially in delicate or vintage movements, leading to accelerated wear or damage to gears and pivots. Original springs are often “seasoned,” meaning they’ve been conditioned by years of use and may be gentler on the movement. Even replacements that have the same dimensions as the original are overpowered. Recommended replacement springs might overload the movement and lead to wear issues sooner rather than later.
Laurie Penman, who authors a regular feature in Clocks Magazine, stresses the importance of considering replacement springs in the September 2024 issue, stating “it bears repeating that if you fit a spring that approximates to the original nineteenth century the movement will be overloaded”.1
Cleaning an open mainspring
If the original mainspring is functional, reusing it can save the cost of purchasing a replacement. In fact, finding an exact replacement for some older or rare clocks can be very challenging for the repairer.
That said, we certainly do not need to send more items to landfill sites. Reusing parts when possible reduces waste and the environmental impact of manufacturing new components.
Inspect the mainsprings during every servicing
Part of servicing a clock movement includes inspecting and cleaning the mainsprings. While open mainsprings are easier to inspect and work with, some repairers may be tempted to skip cleaning those encased in barrels. It’s important to learn how to open mainspring barrels for proper maintenance.
Mainspring barrel
Over time, the mainspring(s) can accumulate old oil, dirt, rust, and debris, which can impede its smooth operation. Removing the mainspring from the barrel or open springs from a movement allows for proper cleaning and lubrication, ensuring the clock runs efficiently.
Open mainsprings that have been serviced
Removing the spring also allows you to apply fresh mainspring oil evenly along the entire length of the spring. But that is not the only reason.
When Should You Replace the Mainsprings?
Removing the mainspring allows you to thoroughly inspect it for any signs of wear, fatigue, or damage that might require replacement. If the spring is in good condition but the hook end is cracked, it can be reused by cutting the spring and fashioning a new hook end. This will make the spring slightly shorter.
However, after a thorough cleaning, the movement will run more efficiently and require less power to run through its designed cycle, be it a day or a week, two weeks, and so, there may be little to no effect from a shortened mainspring. That said, the task of repairing a mainspring is best suited for an experienced clockmaker.
The most straightforward solution for the novice is simply to replace the spring.
Although they may appear set to some, this spring is perfectly usable
As a clock repairer, I rarely replace a mainspring. Even if a mainspring appears “set,” it often still has functionality. The important step is to return the spring to the movement and test it to ensure it meets the required standard by completing its designed cycle. If there is a significant loss, a running time of 2-3 days for an 8-day clock, and if there are no other obvious issues the mainspring must be replaced.
For some, ensuring a clock runs while preserving its original parts might take priority, even if the original mainspring cannot power the clock through its designed cycle. It is therefore essential to balance preservation with functionality.
Using a spring winder while working on a spring within a barrel
By carefully evaluating the mainspring’s condition and the specific needs of the movement, you can make an informed decision that respects both the clock’s history and its mechanical performance.
Like a car engine, oil is the lifeblood of a clock, and correct lubrication is essential for ensuring a long life for the timepiece. Lubrication is crucial for the efficient operation of any mechanical clock movement.
A dirty movement about to be disassembled
However, it’s important to note that oiling a movement without first disassembling and cleaning it is not usually recommended.
If the movement has been serviced within the past two years, there is no black oil present around the pivots and the pivot holes are merely dry, oiling without disassembly is acceptable. Otherwise, if the clock has not been serviced in several years, adding new lubricant to old oil can mix with dirt and grime, forming a grinding paste that acts as an abrasive, and will accelerate wear on the pivots and pivot holes.
Using a spray lubricant is a no-no
Never use a lubricant spray like WD-40 on a mechanical clock. WD-40 is a water dispersant and displacement agent, not a suitable lubricant for clocks. In fact, you should avoid spraying any type of lubricant on your mechanical clock, as some parts, such as wheel teeth and levers/springs, must remain dry. Instead, use a lubricant specifically designed for clocks, such as Keystone clock oil.
Clock pivot oil
As an alternative to clock-designed lubricant, some clockmakers have had good success with synthetic oil similar to the type used in car engines.
The application of clock oil
When applying oil, use a small amount—about the size of a pinhead—for each lubrication point. You can apply the oil with a toothpick, a small wire, a needle dipper designed for clock oiling, or a clock oiler. Avoid over-oiling, as excess oil can attract dust and dirt which will bind with the oil to create a paste, and increase wear.
I have never had much success with a hypodermic-style oiler but your mileage may vary.
clock oiler
While they are handy at first, the plastic vial or chamber eventually cracks with repeated use and renders the oiler useless.
Clock movement oiler and dipper
Instead, I use a simple cup-type oiler and dipper.
What to lubricate
Be sure to oil the pivots of all wheels, the crutch loop where it touches the pendulum rod, the escapement pallets, the clicks, and the mainspring arbours. For weight-driven clocks, remember to oil the pulley axles as well. While servicing a spring-driven clock, also oil the mainsprings with a special mainspring oil. keystone makes an oil specifically designed for all mainsprings.
Drizzle the oil along the side of the coiled spring, allowing it to wick between the coils, and wipe away any excess.
Avoid dipping an applicator directly from the oil bottle to avoid contamination; instead, pour a small amount into an oil cup for application.
In sum By following these guidelines, you can ensure that your mechanical clock remains in excellent condition and continues to run smoothly for years to come.
Proper lubrication not only enhances the performance of your clock but also extends its lifespan by preventing unnecessary wear and tear. Use the right type of oil and applicator, avoid over-oiling, and never use inappropriate lubricants. With regular maintenance and careful attention to lubrication, your clock will keep perfect time and remain a cherished piece for generations.
Mechanical clocks, especially older or larger ones, can pose various dangers during operation and maintenance. In this post, we will cover some of the risks and hazards.
Mainsprings
Do not underestimate the power of a clock with mainsprings. Mechanical clocks often use powerful mainsprings to drive their mechanisms. If these components are mishandled, they can release a significant amount of stored energy suddenly (potential energy), with the risk of causing serious injury.
Mainsprings restrained with “C” clamps
Without the right knowledge and tools, attempting to disassemble or reassemble a mechanical clock can result in damage to the clock and potential injury. When working on a clock and particularly when disassembling clock movements ensure that the mainsprings are safely secured. The best way is to use a specially designed mainspring clamp.
“C” clamps or a strong wire are considered safe methods in clock repair.
Even the simple act of winding a clock can produce a nasty surprise since the sudden release of tension in a mainspring can be dangerous.
I almost lost my thumb when the click let go on the strike side of a Mauthe wall clock while winding it.
Damaged thumbnail but I survived
If I am unsure of the mechanical condition of a clock particularly one that I have recently acquired, I always wind it with my letdown key set. That way I can control it if the click lets go. If I follow that simple rule I don’t get hurt.
A letdown set used to safely wind a newly acquired clock
Gears and sharp components
The gears, escapements, and other moving parts can cause pinching injuries. These parts may also be sharp or have pointed edges, increasing the risk of cuts.
The delicate nature of some clock components, such as thin gears or escapement wheels, can break easily. Working on them without proper knowledge or tools can damage the clock and possible injury from sharp, broken pieces may result.
Mercury
Some antique clocks may contain materials known to be hazardous, such as mercury in pendulums or lead-based solder. Exposure to these materials can pose health risks. For example, most American-made crystal regulator clocks have nickel slugs in glass vials for the pendulum that resembles mercury at first glance. They are completely safe to handle.
Note the pendulum bob in this clock
In contrast, French-made four-glass clocks often contain actual mercury pendulums, which if handled can pose a poisoning risk. The purpose of mercury is to maintain accurate timekeeping despite temperature variations.
The degree of mercury toxicity depends on how much contact one has with it. Here is an excellent article I found on the risks involved and precautions when handling mercury.
Electric clocks
Early electric clocks can pose a significant risk of electric shock if not properly handled or if the wiring is faulty. These clocks are often improperly grounded, and may have worn cords with exposed wire. Those that run hot to the touch when operating are particularly dangerous. Switches and knobs and other components are designed according to past standards and lack the safety protocols of today’s designs.
The danger of electric shock may increase during maintenance or operation.
Sessions 3W electric table clock C.1930
Electric clocks are best handled by individuals knowledgeable about electrical components and their operation.
Radium
Clocks, especially older alarm clocks with luminous dials can pose a significant risk. The culprit is radium. Even a clock that has lost its luminescence may still have traces of radium on its dial or particulate matter that has fallen from the clock-face making them equally dangerous.
As much as you may be curious about how these clocks work, leave them alone and appreciate them as decorations or alternatively, safely dispose of them.
Baby Ben, made in China(a later design with safe luminous material)
It must be emphasized that Inhalation or ingestion of flakes or dust containing radioactive materials is extremely dangerous.
Clock tools and equipment
When working on clock springs or components when there is a potential risk of injury or with tools like a lathe, consider wearing leather gloves, and an apron, along with face/eye protection as needed.
Gloves and safety goggles are an important consideration when working with mainsprings. A winding arbor breaking in a mainspring winder or a mainspring letting go while winding it up might result in the spring, wheel, and arbor flying around the room and possibly toward the repair person.
Thick leather gloves used for spring maintenance
Using a Dremel machine without proper eye protection, especially with wire brushes that rotate at high speeds, can easily lead to serious eye injuries if a piece of wire breaks off.
In sum
To mitigate all risks, it is important to have a good understanding of the clock’s mechanism, use appropriate tools, follow safety procedures, and possibly seek training or assistance from an experienced clockmaker. If you ignore common sense, accidents are sure to follow.
A dirty clock movement ready to be serviced
Those new to clock repair may be eager to dive in and take things apart. However, a slow and cautious approach with a focus on safety will reap benefits in the long term.
This is very good news for clock lovers in Canada.
I have not ordered clock supplies in some months and reported in an earlier post that W. H. Perrin and company had ceased operations as a clock parts supplier to Canadians. The company has been reborn as Perrin Supply Ltd (new owners). Instead of Toronto as a longtime base, they will move to Vancouver, BC (Canada), and resume operations on July 1, 2024.
They intend to carry out the same level of service and delivery of products as the old company.
Steady rest clock tool, available at a clock supply store
This is certainly good news to myself and clock enthusiasts and repair specialists across Canada. Given that they are now on the west coast of Canada the only difference I can foresee is slightly higher delivery costs and perhaps price increases on selected products otherwise it should be business as usual.
Clock supply services provide replacement mainsprings
Although they are in the process of moving online servicesare unaffected and should you have any clock and watch supply needs they are there to help.
Exploring Amazon’s selection of clock repair manuals presents several appealing options. However, purchasing these manuals can be intriguing, as it’s often challenging to know exactly what you’re getting until they arrive at your door.
I bought three such clock repair manuals this spring. The “Antique Clocks Repair Manual” by Phoenix Publishing, “Clock Repairing for Beginners – The Ultimate Guide on How to Care and Repair Clocks from Scratch without Prior Knowledge or Experience” by Angless Juliana, and The Clock Repairer’s Bench Manual by D. Rod Lloyd. Only one of these purchases has any real value for the clock repairer. Read on to find out which one is worth the purchase.
Antique Clocks Repair Manual
The “Antique Clocks Repair Manual” by Phoenix Publishing
The “Antique Clocks Repair Manual” by Phoenix Publishing is an AI-generated manual with no author. While AI-generated content can be useful for producing a large volume of material rapidly, it often lacks originality, has no creative nuances that come from human authors, and lacks detailed processes.
The manual is 130 pages long and consists of 39 chapters, covering topics from the history of antique clocks to teaching clock repair to others. Unfortunately, none of the chapters is particularly detailed. For instance, the chapter on disassembling the movement merely instructs you to take it apart without providing specific steps. It advises, “Once the movement is out, you can begin taking it apart. Make a note of the order in which parts are removed and carefully place them on a soft cloth to avoid scratching or damaging them. Be extra careful of any delicate components such as springs and gears.” This is not very helpful advice!
Clock Repair for Beginners
“Clock Repairing for Beginners – The Ultimate Guide on How to Care and Repair Clocks from Scratch without Prior Knowledge or Experience” by Angless Juliana.
“Clock Repairing for Beginners – The Ultimate Guide on How to Care and Repair Clocks from Scratch without Prior Knowledge or Experience” by Angless Juliana. At first glance, an intriguing title.
If I were looking for a manual on clock repair for beginners, this seemed to be it, judging from the title. For $8.95, it seemed like a bargain until I opened the book to page one.
The book’s cover suggests a reference to mechanical clocks when in fact, it is about caring for your battery clock. The pages are not numbered, contain no photos or diagrams, is 40 pages in length in a large font (80 words per page).
There are no number pages and all advice pertains to battery clocks
There are six chapters. In chapter four, “Why do clocks stop When They Do?”, I will quote the entire chapter, “Connections to the battery that are loose or unclean. Low battery warning. Battery pips are insufficiently long. Due to the accumulation of dirt and grime in the mechanism, there was an excessive amount of friction”. It’s puzzling why a manual would be dedicated to battery-operated clocks, as these are typically disposed of rather than repaired in our throwaway society.
The book title is very misleading. I’m surprised that an author would attach their name to such deceptive content. I would not want to be associated with a publication of such low quality.
The Clock Repairer’s Bench Manual
The Clock Repairer’s Bench Manual by D. Rod Lloyd
I have saved the best for last because the third purchase has real value, in my view. The Clock Repairer’s Bench Manual by D. Rod Lloyd is a large 8X10 manual, and at 378 page,s it covers a broad range of topics on the repair of mechanical clocks. For instance, page 73 begins with general comments on making repairs and covers topics such as pivot polishing, using a bushing machine, addressing bent pivots, replacing a pivot, repairing broken teeth, and so on, with plenty of photos and diagrams, and walk-through descriptions. It is a comprehensive manual that will be useful for anyone in clock repair, from the beginner to the expert, and it is the only one of the three I would recommend.
Unfortunately, none of these books can be found in a bookstore, where you can easily decide whether to buy them with just a quick glance.
For other clock repair books in my collection and those that I highly recommend, please navigate here and here.
Clock movements often require bushing for several reasons. Over time, the original brass bushings can wear out due to friction and other factors. When this occurs, the holes in the clock plates become enlarged and misshapen, resulting in a poor fit between the components that interact with each other. This wear and tear can lead to excessive play in the gears, causing the clock to run erratically or not at all.
Close-up of a worn bushing hole
Bushing involves inserting new brass bushings into the worn-out holes of the clock plates. These bushings provide a precise and snug fit for the pivots, ensuring the gears move smoothly. Bushing prolongs a clock’s lifespan and maintains its accuracy over time.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
This proactive approach to maintenance can help preserve the integrity of the clock movement and prevent more costly repairs in the future.
Cutting into a plate with aBergeon bushing machine
The smoothing broach– what it does and how it’s used
When bushing an antique clock movement, the bushing machine, such as the Bergeon 6200 bushing machine, enlarges the pivot holes using a cutter. This cutter is responsible for creating a hole large enough to accommodate a bushing of the appropriate size, which is then pressed or punched into the clock plate.
When choosing a bushing It is advisable to select a bushing that has a slightly smaller inside diameter for optimal performance. Once the bushing is installed, a cutting broach is employed to enlarge the hole just enough to ensure the smooth movement of the pivot.
Punching or pushing a bushing into the plate
A cutting broach typically resembles a slender, tapered metal rod with flutes or grooves along its length and is usually 5 sided. It is designed to remove material as it is rotated within a hole. The removal of the material enlarges the hole. The size of the cutting broach corresponds to the desired diameter of the hole being created or enlarged.
cutting and smoothing broaches
The final step is the smoothing process.
Smoothing broaches offer several advantages. Firstly, these broaches are designed to finish the holes in the clock plates, ensuring proper fitment of the bushings.
Smoothing broaches help to remove any remaining burrs, irregularities, or minor debris from the interior of the bushing holes, promoting the smoother operation of the gears and other components. This contributes to the overall performance and longevity of the clock.
Swiss-made smoothing broaches
Needless to say, smoothing broaches are specifically designed for clockmaking purposes, meaning they are engineered to withstand the demands of the job and provide consistent results when used time and time again. This reliability is essential when working on valuable and delicate antique timepieces. Investing in high-quality smoothing broaches is advisable to ensure the best results, particularly when working on valuable and delicate antique movements.
Smoothing broaches are available in various sizes, so it’s crucial to select the one that matches the inside diameter of the new bushing. Once the cutting broach has completed its task of creating a hole of the correct size, the smoothing broach takes over as a finishing tool. Carefully twist or rotate the smoothing broach while gently cleaning the hole, inserting it from the inside of the plate and then the outside to ensure the hole is cleaned thoroughly and evenly. After the broaching process, the last step in preparing the new bushing hole for the pivot involves cleaning the inside of the hole with a toothpick to eliminate any minute debris left from the smoothing process.
Overall, the use of smoothing broaches when bushing an antique clock movement ensures proper fitment, smooth operation, precision, and reliability, all of which are crucial for preserving the integrity and functionality of a clock movement.
Proper clock servicing requires a comprehensive arsenal of equipment, with smoothing broaches being just one essential component.
Last week I began working on a Junghans round top mantel clock. For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can find the article here.
During this segment of the maintenance process, my attention will be focused on the mainsprings.
Upon my initial assessment, it appeared that the movement was found to be in decent condition, overall. A noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes told me that a thorough cleaning was necessary.
Junghans movement with the back plate removed
Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations tell me that new bushings need to be installed: specifically, on the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that activate the hammer for the strike.
But first, let’s focus on the mainsprings.
In my experience neglecting certain steps during clock servicing can result in potential future complications.
One side of the barrel is open
For example, there is a temptation to overlook the mainspring barrels, yet it becomes evident that unless one is confident about the absence of accumulated dirt and grime within the spring barrel, certainty can only be achieved through disassembly. Moreover, the open design of this particular barrel increases the likelihood of dirt penetrating the springs.
While mainsprings can be removed from their barrels by hand and subsequently coiled back in by hand, a mainspring winder, such as one made by Olie Baker, is an essential tool for the serious repairer.
Time side mainspring on an Olie Baker spring winder, an appropriately sized collar is on the right
Removing and reattaching the caps to any barrel can be quite cumbersome. With this particular barrel, a convenient and swift method involves using a small slotted screwdriver in one of the two small openings to easily pry open the cap.
A small slotted screwdriver is inserted in the opening to pry open the cap
The importance of wearing leather gloves for safety cannot be overstated.
Tightening the mainspring allows for the insertion of the collar
A firm grip on the barrel ensures a predictable and controlled process.
The collar is in placeand the spring can be let down and removed from the barrel
During the removal of the mainspring, a thorough inspection is conducted to identify potential issues such as stress cracks, unusual wear, pitting, and the accumulation of rust. Subsequently, the spring undergoes a meticulous cleaning process to eliminate any dirty oil, followed by reoiling, before being reintegrated into the barrel.
Reattaching the cap to the barrels can be accomplished by employing two small clamps to gently guide the cap into position.
Two clamps help to guide the cap in place
Once more, the use of gloves guarantees safety.
Upon proper placement, the cap will emit a distinctive “snap” sound.
Both mainsprings have been serviced and the barrels cleaned in the ultrasonic machine
The springs in this particular clock appeared to be in excellent condition and are suitable for reuse.
Meanwhile, it is essential to inspect the barrel teeth for signs of wear, particularly focusing on any bent or damaged teeth during this stage. Worn teeth may result from a spring that is too powerful and not correctly rated for this clock, while broken or bent teeth could be indicative of a mainspring failure.
Next, we proceed with the remainder of the maintenance for this time and strike clock, moving on with the polishing of pivots and bushing work. Join me in a few days as we continue the servicing of this Junghans movement.
New owners of an antique or vintage clock might find it surprising that their recent purchase requires periodic maintenance. This realization often dawns upon them only when the clock stops, and they struggle to get it running again.
This Junghans wall clock, C.1899 is a daily runner
In this discussion, we explore regular clock maintenance, underscoring the importance of continuous inspection to ensure your clock enjoys a long and functional life.
Determining the ideal service interval of a running clock is a frequent topic of discussion among clock repairers, influenced by various factors that impact a clock’s lifespan. Factors include environment, age, frequency of use, manufacturers recommendations, complexity of the movement, user maintenance and cost of repairs.
Regular inspection
I conduct regular inspections of all clocks running continuously in my collection every 3-5 years, enabling me to pinpoint potential issues and remediate them if necessary.
Not all of my clocks are inspected on a regular basis. Among my collection of approximately 85 clocks, only a maximum of 27 clocks remain in continuous operation. Of the remaining ones, certain clocks may need specialized maintenance, are in various states of repair, some have fragile or rare parts, and others are reserved for special occasions.
Elisha Manross steeple clock from the 1830s
As an illustration of a clock that seldom runs, one of my clocks is a 30-hour time-and-strike Elisha Manross steeple clock dating back to the 1830s. This particular clock features brass mainsprings, making them irreplaceable if they were to break today.
Brass mainsprings
Clocks that occasionally stop signal a need for immediate attention. I look for any immediate issues that might have caused the stoppage otherwise I focus on identifying green or black residues around the pivots. Contaminants mixing with clock oil create an abrasive paste, damaging bushing holes and pivots and in time the wear will stop a clock. If a clock stops after running continuously for years it is more often than not a wear issue. Disassembling the movement is imperative, enabling a detailed assessment of wear and determining the extent of intervention.
When dealing with a non-functioning clock no matter what procedures you have taken to get it running, the first step involves a visual inspection to identify evident problems like broken or bent parts, as well as missing components. This leads to the next step which is called servicing. True clock servicing involves comprehensive disassembly, inspection, cleaning, addressing wear and damage issues, reassembly, and thorough testing.
Factors that affect wear
Several factors affect wear, with the local environment playing a pivotal role. Humidity and temperature fluctuations, especially in older homes or those with wood stoves, impact a clock’s performance. Dust and pet hair, infiltrating the movement, also accelerate wear.
Clock cases that are tightly sealed with access doors help alleviate these concerns, and a properly sealed clock will extend the intervals between servicing.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator runs continuously
Different types of clocks exhibit unique wear patterns. Spring-driven time and strike clocks often wear on strike side pivots more often than the time side due to the shock of the half-hour strike. Chiming clocks face additional challenges due to the complexity of the chime/strike sides, where dried oils and dirt cause friction, leading to eventual stops. Weight-driven clocks, especially if not correctly in beat or with twisted cables, may suffer premature stops and require thorough investigation.
A mechanical clock as a decoration
Many people appreciate the decorative allure of antique clocks and opt not to operate them, choosing instead to display them as decorative pieces. However, leaving a mechanical clock unused poses risks.
Time and the environment, rather than operation, cause the most damage. Unused clocks primarily suffer from the thickening of the oil over time and the eventual breakdown of that oil. On the other hand, dried-up oil provides no lubrication for the pivots and leads to accelerated wear. Excessive enlarging of the brass pivot holes by the steel pivots will eventually lead to depthing issues (depthing, which is the correct meshing of one gear in relation to the next is a topic beyond the scope of this article).
Parts left motionless often tend to fuse, and rust accumulates, particularly in humid environments. Although the majority of clocks possess brass plates that are resistant to rust, there is a significant portion of steel components in them that are susceptible to corrosion.
In addition, mainsprings frequently become stuck due to thickening oil, causing the spring to fuse in position.
Running the clock even occasionally such as once per month is essential, enhancing longevity.
Clock cases also need attention
While maintaining the clock movement in good condition is crucial, cleaning the antique clock case is also important for several reasons.
Firstly, a clean case enhances the overall appeal of the clock, showcasing its design and craftsmanship.
Secondly, regular cleaning prevents the buildup of dust, dirt, and grime.
Thirdly, cleaning the case helps preserve the wood or other materials, preventing cracking and blistering and ensuring its structural integrity. I apply Minwax furniture paste wax on certain surfaces to protect the finish and maintain its appearance.
A clean clock case showcases its design– Junghans Sydney mantel clockC.1913
Overall, cleaning the antique clock case ensures its longevity, functionality, and visual appeal, making it an essential aspect of proper clock maintenance.
Health check for clocks
In my controlled home environment, with stable temperature, low humidity, and no pets, I prioritize regular health checks for my clocks as a preventive measure. Yet, due to the controlled environment in my home, I can prolong service intervals to around 4-5 years.
Shorter periods are recommended for clocks in less controlled or fluctuating environments, ensuring timely maintenance and preserving the clock’s longevity. Utilizing an Excel spreadsheet, I meticulously record changes, service intervals, and issues for each clock in my collection.
My goal is to ensure every clock’s durability, preserving them for future generations, and potentially passing them (well, at least some) down to my children.
Why does a mechanical clock movement require servicing? The answer is quite straightforward. Maintaining your clock’s movement is essential to ensure it continues to function properly and extends its lifespan.
Regular servicing reduces wear and tear, ultimately preserving the clock’s functionality. Ideally, most clocks should undergo servicing every three to five years to maximize longevity.
Seth Thomas mantel clock C.1930
This article outlines the seven steps I typically follow when servicing an antique or vintage clock movement, using a common American, pendulum-driven movement as an example, Seth Thomas’s Type 86 8-day time and strike movement.
Step 1 – Initial Assessment: Upon receiving a clock, my first task is to determine if it runs. I assess whether it runs and strikes correctly and completes its full 8-day cycle. If it operates for fewer than 8 days, there may be an underlying power problem, which could stem from various factors like weakened mainsprings, worn bushing holes, bent arbours, and so on but more often than not a good cleaning will improve its run time even if there is some wear in the movement.
The movement is mounted to the front of the clock
Step 2 – Addressing non-running clocks: When the clock does not run, I conduct an examination to identify potential issues such as missing or broken components, bent wheel assemblies, and arbours, damaged or worn gear teeth, worn pinions, snapped mainsprings, and broken or broken clicks along with any missing parts like suspension springs or pendulum bobs.
Nevertheless, when all components are intact and the mainsprings appear to be in good condition, I take measures to ensure the clock is properly adjusted for an even beat.
I’ve observed that on many occasions, the mainsprings are wound tightly, and relieving this tension tends to address the problem (albeit temporarily), allowing the clock to operate relatively smoothly. However, if it stops running soon after starting, I note the problem areas and set it aside for servicing.
Step 3 – Disassembly and assessment: After removing the hands, dial face, and taking the movement out of the case (4 screws hold the type 86 in place), I conduct a thorough visual inspection. This step involves checking for damage, dirt, and excess oil, and determining the extent of cleaning required.
Type 86 time and strike movement
I use retaining clamps to safely secure the mainsprings’ power and then proceed with disassembling the movement. Disassembly includes removing outboard parts such as the crutch and suspension rod, releasing the four or five bolts holding the plates in place, and proceeding to remove the wheels and levers.
I assess wear in various areas, including pinions, pivot holes, arbor conditions, and connections between plates and pillars. I also look for tool marks and indications of previous servicing.
Step 4 – Cleaning the parts: Cleaning the clock movement parts is crucial, and I prefer using an ultrasonic cleaner. I use a mildalkaline, biodegradable degreaserconcentrate for cleaning. I organize the parts in compartments for easy identification, with strike parts separated from time-side parts.
Deox 007 is a concentrate.
For open-loop mainsprings such as the type 86, I detach them from the main wheel before cleaning. To guarantee that the mainwheels and springs are reinstalled in their original spots, I mark them with either “T” or “S” for clear identification.
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Drying the parts promptly is vital to prevent rust formation. I use shop towels and a portable hair dryer to ensure all areas are dry. Lantern pinions tend to be especially difficult to dry and a hair dryer is an ideal tool to remove excess water.
After cleaning, I inspect the cleaning solution and, if suitable, reuse it.
Step 5 – Polishing pivots: The next step involves polishing the pivots. If the pivots are in good condition, a few passes with an emery board are sufficient. A small metal lathe is ideal but a portable drill will do.
Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor
For pitted pivots, more aggressive cleaning and polishing may be necessary, and in extreme cases, pivot replacement may be required. Cleaning and wiping the pivots with a soft cloth is essential, followed by bushing if needed.
Step 6 – Bushing, broaching, and pegging pivot holes: I determine which pivot holes need bushing by assessing lateral pivot movement and marking each one (with a black marker) to be bushed.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
I use a Bergeon bushing machine known for its precise work. After making the bush hole, I clean it from chips and burrs, followed by broaching if necessary. In the process, bothcutting and smoothing broaches are used to ensure an optimum fit.
A hole is enlarged with acutter to accommodate a new bushing
All pivot holes are pegged with toothpicks until no residue remains.
Step 7 – Making necessary repairs: Other potential repairs include re-pivoting, straightening or replacing wheel teeth, sourcing parts, making new parts, and addressing issues with worn lantern pinions and escapement components.
Step 8 – Reassembly, testing, and adjustment: Finally, I reassemble the clock movement, carefully securing the gears and levers in place. I use a pivot locator to move the pivots to their correct location. Once reassembled, the movement goes through a testing process and adjustment on a test stand, ensuring it is in beat and properly regulated. This testing phase can take up to a month before returning the movement to its case.
A movement on a test stand. Attached is a microphone for a beat amplifier
In conclusion, servicing antique or vintage clocks significantly extends their lifespan. These seven steps provide a general guideline for clock movement servicing, though some steps may require further explanation, and individual procedures may vary among clockmakers.
You might be wondering whether or not your newly acquired 100-year-old clock requires maintenance even if it seems to be running well. The traditional saying “don’t fix what isn’t broken” may not be suitable for antique clocks because even a seemingly well-functioning clock may not disclose the full extent of its wear.
My first antique clock, Seth Thomas Adamantine C.1900
Many years ago mechanical clocks were quite prevalent. However, as electric clocks gained popularity in the 1930s, the mechanical clock industry began to decline. Many renowned American and Canadian clock manufacturers, such as Seth Thomas, Sessions, and Ansonia, simply disappeared by the mid-1950s.
Sessions electric clock C.1934
As electric clocks replaced mechanical ones in households, old mechanical clocks became decorative pieces, were stored away in attics, barns, and basements, or found their way to second-hand shops, antique malls, and flea markets. Consequently, the state and backstory of your clock may differ considerably based on the conditions under which it was stored after it stopped running.
Appearance tells a story
The external appearance of the clock and the level of care it has received can provide insights into its usage history. A heavily worn clock case often suggests that the clock movement inside has also experienced significant wear and tear.
On the other hand, a meticulously maintained clock case may house a movement that has enjoyed a lengthy lifespan and received consistent servicing over the years.
Both case and movement were in very good condition, George H. Clark 30-hour Ogee
Whether it has run a few months or several years, is difficult to determine precisely unless it has been examined carefully for wear. The answer is complex, primarily because determining the clock’s exact history and how often it has been serviced is not as straightforward as it seems. There are many variables at play and unless you are aware of the clock’s history unraveling its past by examining the extent of wear can be complex.
Inspect for wear
To assess the condition of your clock accurately, you must inspect the movement for signs of wear. Wear is a clear indicator of the clock’s condition and suggests how much time it has spent in operation without maintenance. Only by disassembling the movement can the full extent of wear be ascertained.
Rusted and worn movement, likely stored in a damp environment
Signs of wear could include worn bushings, worn bushing holes, punch marks adjacent to bushing holes, bent arbours, broken or repaired teeth on clock gears, broken or tired mainsprings, cracked pinions, loose clicks, excessive oiling, traces of solder as well as missing or damaged case pieces, and worn clock faces.
Date markings on the case or the movement that have been inscribed with a sharp tool or pencil provided evidence of when the clock was serviced. Marks such as these indicate that the clock has been serviced, though not necessarily always by a skilled professional.
Buying privately provides some assurances
It is highly unlikely that an antique mall dealer would have much information on a clock’s history as such sellers typically focus on the sale of items rather than their historical backgrounds.
Private sales of antique clocks can indeed offer valuable insights into their usage and history.
In private sales, you often have the opportunity to interact directly with the clock’s current or previous owners. They can provide firsthand information about the clock’s origin, how long it has been in their possession, and any maintenance or repairs it may have undergone.
A well-preserved E Ingraham Huron bought from a private seller
Antique clocks passed down through generations within a family may come with stories and documentation that shed light on their usage. Some private sales may include original documentation, such as purchase receipts, service records, or even old photographs featuring the clock. These documents can be invaluable in understanding the clock’s history.
Private buyers often have the opportunity to physically inspect the clock before purchase. This close examination can reveal wear patterns, repair marks, or other signs of usage and maintenance that might not be apparent in online listings or auctions.
Sellers of antique clocks in private sales are often enthusiasts or collectors themselves. They may possess an understanding of the clock’s history, design, and significance, which they are willing to share with prospective buyers.
A vintage Hermle wag on a wall clock that had been in the same family for generations
In some cases, private sales may come with provenance—a documented history of ownership and past sales. This can provide a clear lineage of the clock and offer valuable information about its previous owners and usage.
An amateur or professional repair
It’s important to distinguish between amateur and professional repairs. Amateur repairs are often quick fixes to get the clock running again and are usually visibly apparent. In contrast, professional repairs are thorough and aimed at extending the clock’s lifespan, with minimal visible alterations.
An amateur repair on a time and strike movement
In your search, you may come across clocks that have been serviced multiple times and others that have never received maintenance. Clocks in the latter category can range from heavily worn and non-functional to surprisingly well-preserved due to factors like limited use or professional servicing at regular intervals.
A regulating gear discovered after disassembly
You might come across clocks with multiple services or those never serviced yet still in good condition. While your 100-year-old clock may have run continuously, it likely underwent several servicing sessions, either by skilled professionals or enthusiasts. Conversely, some clocks in excellent condition may have seen minimal use, despite never receiving maintenance.
Punch marks used to close a bushing hole, not an acceptable practice today
While the complexity of assessing antique clocks’ wear can be daunting, it adds to the allure and fascination. Whether it has run continuously and been cared for throughout its life, or is one step closer to the garbage bin, each clock tells a unique story that adds to its charm.
Most mechanical clocks have an hour hand concentric with the minute hand with the hour hand making one full turn every twelve hours. The special set of wheels off the centre arbour is called the motion works. Attached to the centre arbour is the minute hand. The hour pipe fits over the centre arbour and to it is attached the hour hand. This set of gears, called the motion works, is driven by the time train and powered by a spring or a weight.
I am working on a movement made by the Sessions Clock Co. It is from a model called the Grand Assortment probably made sometime before 1920. This is Grand Assortment #1 in a series of three.
Slightly blurry auction photo
The case is in rough shape and certainly needs some tender loving care. I thought my major challenge was putting life back into a tired case (another story) but it appears the movement needs resuscitation as well.
Note from a previous owner, this clock is from around 1915 or so, not 1903
Adjusting the time on the clock is a challenge because the minute hand is very stiff and takes some effort to move it. Something is amiss with the motion works, the time train itself or both.
Motion works at the centre of themovement
I initially cleaned the movement, checked for wear and determined that the little wear I observed should not be enough to affect the running of the clock.
I reassembled the movement and while on the test stand the problem reoccurred, a minute hand that was just as stiff to move as before and after a few hours, the movement simply stopped. I later discovered that the homemade click spring on the time side had unhooked and caught on the second wheel.
As received. Hmm, the pendulum rod is missing
I am not an expert on the meshing depth of gear teeth but I suspect that there is enough wear in the motion works and the time train to prevent the gear teeth from engaging smoothly with the contact point of the next gear, the lantern pinion. The combination of wear in several locations might produce the stiff centre arbour condition. Based on this theory I went ahead with bushing work.
Drilling a hole in the plate with Bergeon bushing machine
This time I was somewhat more discerning concerning potential wear points and yes, a more careful inspection revealed there was likely enough wear to affect the running of the clock. I began with new bushings on the escape wheel rear plate and third and fourth wheels on the time side and finally the second wheel back plate for a total of 4 bushings on the time side; nothing on the strike side. It looked fine.
Reassembly
The main wheel arbours on this movement aren’t interchangeable. It is easy to confuse the two. After reassembling the movement I noticed that the plate did not go all the way down on the strike side. I compared the two arbours and the time side arbour is narrower at the top. Swapping them back to where they belonged fixed it.
Sessions mainsprings on this movement are not interchangeable
Setting up the strike side correctly on the first go-around is probably more luck than skill but this time there was no additional fiddling with the correct position of the warning wheel which is just below the fly.
I did not completely eliminate the stiff centre arbor but it is improved and the clock is running well. If I have to take it apart a third time I will check for a bent arbour in the train or the center arbour itself or a bent pivot.
Let’s clear something up right away: I am not a “Dunkin Swish” enthusiast. If you’ve been researching the clock-collecting world for a while, you might have come across this term. If you haven’t, consider yourself lucky—it’s something best avoided at all costs.
“Dunkin Swish” (apologies to those named Duncan) refers to the practice of placing an assembled movement into a cleaning solution or an ultrasonic cleaning machine, drying it off, and then declaring it “clean.” This is the absolute worst method for cleaning a clock movement and is never a good way to clean mainsprings within their spring barrels.
Why? Only by disassembling the movement can you properly inspect parts, polish pivots, peg holes, and thoroughly remove the dirt and grime that accumulate in the small crevices of a movement—buildup that will accelerate wear over time.
There is only one method to properly clean a clock movement, and complete disassembly, which includes removing mainsprings from their barrels/arbours.
Here are the steps I always follow when cleaning clock parts.
Hermle movement parts after cleaning
In most cases, clock parts can be safely cleaned using an ultrasonic cleaning machine. However, in rare instances, when working with something very old and delicate, hand cleaning may be the only viable option.
For the purposes of this article, I will assume that most clocks you work on are standard common-place brass mechanical movement types found worldwide.
Let’s get started.
Pre-cleaning
Once I have the movement disassembled, I clean any stubborn stains and wipe off excess oil from the parts beforehand. From experience, I’ve learned that while an ultrasonic cleaner works remarkably well, it’s not a magic solution—tough stains don’t always come off easily in the cleaner.
Pre-cleaning has an additional benefit: it extends the life of the cleaning solution. The solution can be reused multiple times, but once it becomes too dirty or cloudy to see through, I dispose of it. Proper disposal can be a challenge, which is why I always opt for a non-ammoniated, biodegradable solution.
I also clean all the pivot holes with peg wood or toothpicks and remove oil from the pivots beforehand. Additionally, I wipe away excess oil and dirt from the mainsprings.
The ultrasonic cleaner
In the early days of my clock repair work, I used an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaning machine. It was adequate for small jewelry items and acceptable for clock parts, but as I could afford something better, I decided to invest in a commercial-grade product.
Ultrasonic cleaner
I came across many Chinese-made ultrasonic cleaners on Amazon and eBay. While some may have had positive experiences with these machines, and the prices are certainly appealing, I was looking for something of higher quality and with a solid warranty. I have no issue with Chinese ultrasonic machines, but I would only consider them if they offered a reliable return policy and warranty.
I chose L&Rfor two main reasons: their reputation and warranty. I get no credit for mentioning this company, but the link will allow you to explore their product line to find the right size for your needs. After four years of continuous use, my L&R cleaning machine has performed flawlessly. L&R meets all of my requirements.
L&R Quantrex Q140, 3.2L with heater
The Q140 with heater is the size I opted for. It will hold one complete movement but is a tight fit for larger movements. Its smaller size means less cleaning solution is used and quicker heat-up times.
A high-quality ultrasonic cleaner will not disappoint. While there may be other brands that are equally good or even better, you generally get what you pay for.
Using an Ultrasonic Cleaner
Ultrasonic cleaners use cavitation, generated by ultrasonic waves, to clean objects made of non-absorbent materials. Ultrasonic cleaning effectively removes dirt, grease, and other contaminants from delicate components without causing damage. Just look at how bright and shiny this 30-hour movement looks after ultrasonic cleaning. That said, achieving an absolutely shiny movement is not the goal.
30-hour movement after cleaning in Ultrasonic
Should everything go into the ultrasonic cleaner? Avoid mixing metals beyond brass and steel in the cleaner as they may react with each other. I also avoid placing anything plastic in it. Some modern clock movements with plastic or nylon gears and parts should be cleaned separately and not placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. Hammer heads made of leather should not be placed in an ultrasonic.
Use your own judgment with friction-fit parts, such as a center gear and pinion, as there is a risk of damaging them if you’re not confident they can be reassembled easily. Otherwise, disassemble as much of the movement as possible.
Choose the Right Cleaning Solution
Avoid using flammable substances such as alcohol, gasoline, or other volatile liquids. These can vaporize, potentially causing a fire or explosion, and release harmful gases into the workspace. Inhaling these toxic fumes is never safe.
Only solutions that are specifically designed for an ultrasonic cleaner should be used. Among acceptable cleaners is Polychem Deox 007 as a cleaning solution that works effectively. The mix is 5 to 1 ratio with water and it is free of odour. According to their product brochure Deox-007 is “an environmentally friendly, non-ammoniated concentrate cleaner. It is mildly alkaline for the efficient removal of oils, grease, tarnish, stains, corrosion, and oxidation from brass, bronze, copper, gold, and silver”. Once it has outlived its usefulness it can be safely dumped down the drain.
Wire basket holding an American-style movement in the ultrasonic before thesolution is added
Many cleaners have a safe fill line, typically about 1 inch from the top of the tank. Whether you’re cleaning one part or several, always ensure the solution reaches this fill line.
A stainless steel wire basket is also necessary as it is not advisable to place parts directly on the bottom of the cleaning tank. A stainless steel wire basket is necessary because placing parts directly on the bottom of the cleaning tank can cause them to become damaged. The basket keeps the parts elevated, allowing the ultrasonic waves to clean them evenly without contact with the tank surface.
Not quite dirty enough to throw away
Although I always drain the solution after each use, I understand for the sake of convenience why some repairers leave it in the tank if the ultrasonic cleaner is used daily.
No cleaning method I’m aware of is as effective at cleaning lantern pinions as an ultrasonic cleaner. The results are truly remarkable.
The Ultrasonic Session
I pre-heat the solution which involves pouring in the solution, turning on the heater, and allowing the ultrasonic to come up to temperature. It takes about 10 minutes.
Green heater switch
I typically run the ultrasonic for 20-30 minutes, which is usually sufficient for most jobs. On rare occasions, I’ve run parts through a second time.
Next is drying all the parts and this is where speed is essential. It is surprising how quickly rust forms on the steel parts. I use shop towels and for difficult locations such as lantern pinions, I use a hair dryer. Occasionally, if my wife is baking I will put the parts in the oven during its cool-down phase.
Years ago, some repairers salvaged parts from discarded hot-air popcorn machines, but I don’t see those around anymore. Additionally, in the past, some repairers designed heat boxes using a light bulb, but today’s LED bulbs run far too cool.
Sessions mainsprings are cleaned and ready to be re-installed in the movement
If you choose to place mainsprings in the ultrasonic cleaner, it’s important to dry them as quickly as possible.
There are two reasons why you might prefer to clean them by hand. First, they can be easily cleaned on a spring winder, and second, the solution will become dirty very quickly, shortening its lifespan.
Cleaning a mainspring
One could clean in phases—first the time side, then the strike side—if drying is a concern. Ultimately, it’s up to personal preference.
Using a small metal lathe to buff the Wheels
To buff the wheels using a small metal lathe, securely mount the wheel on the lathe’s spindle and gently apply an emery board to the wheel. Run the lathe at a low speed, applying light pressure to achieve a smooth, shiny finish.
Next, clean the pivots with an emery board. To clean the pivots with an emery board, lightly hold the board against the pivot while moving the emery board up and down at a low speed. Use gentle, consistent pressure to remove any grime or oxidation without altering the pivot’s shape or surface. Use a soft cloth to wipe off any excess residue from the pivots.
Polishing a pivot
Next Steps
Once everything is dry, the next phase involves any necessary bushing or pivot work, followed by reassembly and testing.
So, that’s the method I follow. If you have a different technique or additional steps that you include in your process, I’d love to hear about them.
In this age of everything electronic, it may surprise some people that a newly acquired mechanical clock bought at the local garage sale, flea market or antique store needs to be wound on a regular basis. Winding a mechanical clock takes a level of care but a few simple guidelines should have you on your way.
Here’s how to wind an antique or vintage mechanical clock correctly. By following these tips and guidance, you’ll gain the skill and confidence needed to wind your clock properly and maintain its functionality.
Let’s begin by discussing some basic terms.
Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function
On your clock’s dial (excluding cable-driven tall case clocks or any clock that has pull-up weights), you will notice one, two, or three holes, known as “winding arbours” or winding points.
A typical German mantel clock
For example, a clock with one winding hole is a time-only clock. Two winding holes typically indicate a time-and-strike clock. These clocks strike the hour on the hour and may also strike on the half-hour, either on a bell or gong.
Each arbour serves a specific purpose, and the number of winding arbours indicates the number of gear trains (or sets of gears) in the clock.
Clocks with three winding arbours chime on the quarter-hour, producing a musical tone. On such clocks, the center arbour winds the time train, the left arbour winds the strike train, and the right arbour winds the chime train.
On some clocks, there is a smaller hole on the clock face near or above the 12 o’clock position. It is also an arbour, but a smaller one used for regulating the speed of your clock. If you have a double-ended key, the small end fits that arbour. Some clocks will have the regulating arbour located under the centre cannon where the hands are attached.
The Difference Between the Terms Strike and Chime
A strike or a chime is simply the clock sounding the time. An antique or vintage “time and strike” clock indicates the hour by striking once for each hour or using a two-tone strike, such as a Normandy or “Bim-Bam” strike.
On the other hand, a chime is a musical tone, and a typical musical tone found on most clocks with three winding points is the Westminster chime. Some clocks provide more choices, such as the Schatz W3 bracket clock, which has 3 musical tones: St Michael’s, Whittington, and Westminster.
On older clocks, there may or may not be an additional strike on the half-hour. Older antique clocks from the mid-1800s, for example, typically do not strike on the half-hour to preserve the wind on the strike side.
Typically, striking clocks have two winding points, while chiming clocks have three.
Where Winding Points Are Located
On this spring-driven, Seth Thomas mantel clock (photo below), the left arbour, indicated by an arrow, winds the strike side, and the right arbour, the right arrow winds the time side. The smaller hole just below the centre cannon is for regulating the clock using a double-ended key.
Winding arbours on an antique Seth Thomas mantel clock
On the Ingraham clock (photo below), there is only one set (or train of gears) that indicates it is a time-only clock, hence the single arbour or winding point. The barely visible, smaller hole in the loop end of the “2” on the number 12 is for regulating the clock.
Winding arbour on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock
If the striking sound is bothersome or disruptive to guests, you can simply wind the time side only—the clock will continue to run normally without engaging the strike mechanism.
However, to ensure even wear and proper maintenance, it is advisable to wind both sides of a striking clock.
The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock
Most clocks are designed to run for eight days. Some older clocks run 30 hours, and others run as long as 30 days on a wind. Still others, such as anniversary clocks, will run 400 days on a wind.
Double-ended Key
For eight-day clocks, winding once a week ensures the clock continues running smoothly. Establishing a routine, such as winding your clock(s) on the same day each week (a Saturday, for example), is a helpful habit. It’s also a good idea to make occasional adjustments to your clock, such as fine-tuning its speed to account for seasonal changes. You can find more details in an article I wrote about regulating your clock.
Clock Keys
It is common for a newly acquired clock to come without a key, but this is nothing to worry about. If it does have one, it is usually a replacement. Finding a clock with its original key is quite rare. The key that accompanies the clock is likely to fit, but if your clock has a speed adjustment arbour (marked F-S) on the dial, typically located near the top, it should have a double-ended key.
If your clock has a one-ended winding key and a speed adjustment arbour is present, the key is not original to the clock. Double-ended keys are necessary because the speed adjustment arbour is considerably smaller than the winding arbour.
Key Size and Type
All mechanical clocks require a winding key, like the one shown below. For those clocks that have winding cables, a winding crank is required. Winding cranks will be covered later in this article. The exceptions are alarm clocks and some carriage clocks, which have built-in winding keys. Keys come in various sizes, so it’s important to have the correct size for your clock’s arbour. The key should fit snugly without being too loose.
If your clock came without a key it can be purchased at any clock supply house, such as Perrinin Vancouver, Canada. Timesavers and Merritts are clock suppliers in the USA, where keys can be purchased.
Ingraham Huron winding key. Home-made but functional and over 120 years old
Over-winding a clock is a common myth. A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil
Winding Your Mechanical Clock
If the dial is covered by a glass door, open it to access the clock face. Insert the key into one of the winding arbors, and use your non-dominant hand to steady the case while winding. To protect the finish, it’s a good idea to wear a cotton glove on your non-dominant hand.
Next, turn the key clockwise. If it doesn’t turn clockwise, try turning it counterclockwise. Some clocks wind differently, so this is normal. Avoid forcing the key; apply minimal pressure and continue winding until you feel resistance. Once you encounter resistance, stop winding and do not force the key further.
Below is a clear example of a previous owner using excessive force to wind the movement in the wrong direction. The right spring barrel has become unhooked from the main wheel, which only happens when significant force is applied while winding in the opposite direction.
If you lose the key, simply purchase a replacement. Never use pliers or any other hand tools to wind a clock, as the arbours can be easily stripped.
Chinese clock movement
The “clicking” sound heard while winding the arbour is the click engaging the ratchet on the mainspring. The ratchet’s purpose is to secure the mainspring in place with each turn of the key.
An 8-day clock usually requires about 14 half turns of the key as the arbour does one complete turn per day.
Mainspring ratchet and click.
Allow the key to gently return to its click. On the rare occasion that the click slips or breaks, resist the urge to release it quickly. Instead, let the key slowly unwind in your hand to prevent potential damage to the teeth, gears, and even your hand. Letting the key go free suddenly can cause collateral damage to other parts of the movement.
The myth of overwinding a clock is common, but a clock that “seems” overwound actually seizes due to a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil, which causes the coil to lock or stick. Regular servicing of a mechanical clock is an essential part of ownership and helps prevent future mainspring issues.
Clocks with Weights
Not all clocks use springs — for example, grandfather clocks and one-day ogee clocks are weight-driven. On these clocks, the weights must be raised to the top to begin the weekly time cycle. This can be done either by inserting a crank key into the winding arbor on the clock face or by manually pulling the chains to lift the weights.
For clocks with winding chains, gently pull down on the shorter side of the chain until the weight reaches the underside of the wooden seatboard, stopping at the weight stop bar. Repeat this process for the remaining two chains if it’s a chiming clock. Allow the chains to do the work — do not assist by lifting the weights at the same time. Pushing up on the weights could cause the chain to slip over the winding gear teeth or become unhooked. To protect the brass finish on the weight shells, wear cotton gloves while steadying the weights as they are pulled up.
For tall case clocks with cable drives, use a crank key to wind them by inserting the key into each winding hole on the clock face. Turn the key slowly until the weights are raised to the top.
All three weights on a chiming grandfather clock descend more or less together through the week.
On older tall case clocks with weights hidden behind an access door, open the door to observe the weights as they rise when you wind the clock. As the weights near the top, slow down and stop when you feel resistance.
Thirty-hour time and strike or one-day clocks are typically wound with a winding crank inserted in the dial face winding points once per day. Wind the weights to the top of the case at approximately the same time each day.
Final thoughts
In conclusion, take pride in your mechanical clock and the craftsmanship it represents. Wind it regularly, care for it properly, and have it serviced when necessary. Even if you prefer not to keep it running, cherish it as a remarkable piece of horological heritage.
For visual learners who prefer to see the process in action, I’ve created a helpful video demonstration showing exactly how to wind a clock. You can watch it here:
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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