The Unique Charm of Mauthe Buffet Clocks

Mauthe mantel clocks are widely available in various shapes and sizes, often appearing on online marketplaces, at garage sales, flea markets, and in antique shops. However, not all are well-preserved—many show signs of age and neglect. This particular round-top mantel clock stands out for its excellent condition, especially considering its age.

A well-preserved “buffet” clock

While commonly referred to as a mantel or shelf clock, Mauthe marketing literature described this style as a “buffet clock.” In the mid-20th century, clocks of this design were often intended to sit on buffets, sideboards, or credenzas in dining rooms. This placement allowed the clock to serve both a decorative and a practical purpose, complementing the room’s furnishings. The term “buffet clock” reflects its association with this specific setting, distinguishing it from mantel or shelf clocks, which were typically placed in living areas or on fireplaces.

This three-train Westminster chime pendulum clock features a five-rod gong block and plays a musical tone every quarter hour. I discovered it at an antique shop in Great Village, Nova Scotia (Canada) in 2015. The movement is unmarked, lacking a trademark, but bears the number 50089 on the bottom right of the rear plate. There is no doubt that the movement is original to the case.

Mauhe 3-train movement

This clock runs on a complete eight-day cycle and produces a very pleasant sound. The case features a simple yet attractive design, is in excellent condition, and the movement is clean, having been serviced in 2015.

Mauthe – The Company

Mauthe clocks were produced in Germany by a company with a long and distinguished history, manufacturing thousands of wall, mantel, office, and hall clocks. Founded in 1844 by Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie in Schwenningen, Germany, the company initially focused on producing watch parts. By the late 1860s, Mauthe began making its own wall clocks and movements—some produced through the Gewerblern method (a form of cottage industry), while others were made through a more industrial, factory-based approach.

In 1876, the Mauthe sons, Christian and James, took over the business. A decade later, in 1886, the company began manufacturing its own spring mechanisms.

By around 1900, Mauthe offered a wide range of clocks, including alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks, and “Buffet Uhren” (buffet clocks). At the time, the company employed around 1,100 people. The third generation of the Mauthe family took control in 1904, with Eugene Schreiber (Christian Mauthe’s son), Dr. Fritz Mauthe, and Alfred Mauthe (sons of Jacob Mauthe) joining the leadership.

In it’s day, it would have displayed in this manner

In 1925, Mauthe introduced a new trademark featuring an eagle with outstretched wings clutching a three-part round plate marked with the letters F, M, and S. By 1930, the company was producing approximately 45,000 clocks per week and employed more than 2,000 people. Around 60% of their production was for export, with England being their primary market.

In the mid-1930s, Mauthe began manufacturing wristwatches, some of which were supplied to the German Army (Wehrmacht). After a brief pause during the war years, Mauthe resumed production in 1946, focusing on wristwatches. The company continued operations through the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s, but ultimately declared bankruptcy and closed in 1976.

Why I Sold It

While it’s a lovely clock with a beautiful chime, I ultimately decided to focus on other types, particularly those made in Canada or with a Canadian connection. I also have a soft spot for wall clocks, which now form the core of my collection. I have no regrets; this one went to a good home.

Using Someone’s Photo Is Copyright Infringement

Not long after I sold the clock, I came across another one listed on a local online for-sale site. When I looked closely at the photo in the listing, I realized the seller had used my photograph (the first photo in this article) to advertise his clock—an infringement of copyright. I wrote to him and asked that he take the photo down. He refused, saying, “I found it on the Internet,” implying that anything online is free to use. I explained that I own the photo and my permission is required to use it, and told him that if he didn’t remove it, I would file a complaint with the site administrator. He eventually took it down, but the incident left me wondering how copyright can truly be protected when so many people assume that anything found online is fair game.

And Finally

This Mauthe buffet clock is a fine example of the company’s craftsmanship, combining reliable timekeeping with a pleasing chime. Its well-preserved condition and recent servicing make it a standout piece for its present owner.

How to Safely Remove a Clock Movement from Its Case

If you’re new to clock repair or restoration, one of the first hands-on steps you’ll encounter is removing the movement from its case. This process needs to be done with care to avoid damaging delicate components.

Sessions Beveled #2 mantel clock

Start by taking several clear photos of the clock from all angles—front, back, sides, and inside. These images will be your reference when it’s time to reassemble everything. Next, gently remove the pendulum by unhooking it from the suspension spring or leader. Set it aside somewhere safe.

Removing a movement through the rear access door

I highly recommend using small containers to store any clock parts, screws, or retainers removed during disassembly—there’s no greater frustration in clock repair than losing a tiny screw.

Next, remove the hands. Unscrew the hands nut or remove the brass or steel taper pin holding the minute hand in place. There may also be a brass compression spacer attached to the minute hand. Lift and remove it and the minute hand. The hour hand is friction-fit on the hour pipe; simply pull it off.

The movement is removed from the front after taking off the dial and hands

In some designs, such as those requiring the removal of the movement through a rear access door, lay the clock flat to get better access. As a precautionary measure, it is advisable to remove the glass dial in advance, since placing the clock face down while working on the movement may result in the glass cracking (yes, that has happened to me). If the dial is removed, watch for tiny screws, clips, or pins—and keep track of how it was attached.

If the springs are open and relaxed inside the case, it may be difficult to remove the movement. Wind both mainsprings tightly.

Now locate the movement’s mounting hardware. Most movements are secured with case screws—usually at least four, one at each corner. On some clocks, you must remove the strike block before the movement can be taken out. This block is typically held in place by a large screw on the bottom of the case. In German wall and floor clocks, the movement is often mounted to a seat board and secured with two thumb screws. Simply unscrew the thumb screws and slide the movement forward to remove it.

At this point, you should be able to gently slide or lift the movement out of the case. There are times when the access door is so small that the movement must be carefully maneuvered to remove it.

Once everything is removed and stored properly, you’re ready to inspect the movement for cleaning, bushings, or further repair.

If the clock is spring-driven and still wound, always let the power down using a let-down tool set. However, before doing so, wind the springs, insert a clamp, or wrap a wire around the mainspring to secure it. If the spring is housed in a barrel, letting it down allows the mainspring to relax safely within the barrel. This ensures safety during the removal process and prevents damage from a sudden release of tension.

The movement is removed from the case and is ready for inspection

And now you are ready for the next steps.

Taking it slow and staying organized will save you time (and frustration) later on.

Craftline grandfather clock – why so little information online?

There was a time in the 1970s and 1980s when every family of sufficient means had a grandfather clock in their home. It was a symbol of success but today, nobody wants them.


clock face

Two years ago my daughter bought a new home in a large western Canadian city. There were a couple of pieces of furniture in the house during the process of the sale.

Craftline grandfather clock

One item, a grandfather clock was offered for sale, my daughter consulted me and I advised her to lowball the offer. So, she bought it far below the asking price. It was clear the seller had no interest in taking it with them and they quickly agreed to the lower price.

Weights and pendulum

It is a Craftline grandfather (or tall-case) clock from about the mid-1980s. I have seen a few modern grandfather clocks and to me, this was a top-of-the-line model with selectable chimes, seconds bit, beveled glass lower access door, 12-inch pendulum bob, moon phase, crank weights, beautiful solid wood (Cherry?) case with selected veneers.

Craftline clock

The trouble is that I cannot find one darn thing about the company during an online search.

I do know that Craftline was a Canadian company that made clock cases and sourced Hermle and possibly Urgos movements, plus faces, pendulums, and weights from Germany. When they ceased production (presumably in the early 1990s) and how long the company was in business is a mystery. However, judging from the quality of this clock, they were able to compete successfully with Howard Miller, Ridgeway, and others.

However, it is a fine-looking clock that represents a time when every home had to have one.

June 2025 update: The definitive source on Craftline Industries is an article I authored earlier this year.

Daylight Savings – it is time to end it!

Daylight Savings Time has no place in our modern world. Of 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries observe Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe some form of daylight saving.

Top showing face and crown detail
Face of a Vienna Regulator clock C.1870

70 countries must live with it.

Clock face showing moon dial
Face of a Ridgeway grandfather clock C.1996

At 2:00am Sunday, set your clocks ahead one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.

Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. In Canada, we have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking
Canada Clock Co. cottage clock C.1883

How to set your mechanical clock(s)

  • Move the minute hand slowly clockwise to the correct time, stopping briefly for the quarter-hour on chiming clocks and the half-hour for striking clocks.
  • Do not move the minute hand backward as it risks damage to the movement. This should be regarded as a general rule, exceptions are some clocks where it is safe to do so (read your owner’s manual).

There has been a push to scrap the time-switch in Canada.

It is stupid, needless, senseless, and confusing.

Winding a mechanical clock – A How-To Guide

In this age of everything electronic, it may surprise some people that a newly acquired mechanical clock bought at the local garage sale, flea market or antique store needs to be wound on a regular basis. Winding a mechanical clock takes a level of care but a few simple guidelines should have you on your way.

Here’s how to wind an antique or vintage mechanical clock correctly. By following these tips and guidance, you’ll gain the skill and confidence needed to wind your clock properly and maintain its functionality.

Junghans Corner feet finished
A typical German mantel clock

Let’s begin by discussing some terms.

Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function

On your clock’s dial (excluding cable-driven tall case clocks), you will notice one, two, or three holes, known as “winding arbours” or winding points. Each arbour serves a specific purpose, and the number of winding arbours indicates the number of gear trains (or sets of gears) in the clock.

For example, a clock with one winding hole is a time-only clock. Two winding holes typically indicate a time-and-strike clock. These clocks strike the hour on the hour and may also strike on the half-hour, either on a bell or gong. Clocks with three winding arbours chime on the quarter-hour, producing a musical tone. On such clocks, the center arbour winds the time train, the left arbour winds the strike train, and the right arbour winds the chime train.

On some clocks, there is a smaller hole on the clock face near or above the 12 o’clock position. It is also an arbour, but a smaller one used for regulating the speed of your clock. If you have a double-ended key, the small end fits that arbour. Some clocks will have the regulating arbour located under the centre cannon where the hands are attached.

The Difference Between Strike and Chime

A strike or a chime is simply the clock sounding the time. An antique or vintage “time and strike” clock indicates the hour by striking once for each hour or using a two-tone strike, such as a Normandy or “Bim-Bam” strike.

On the other hand, a chime is a musical tone and a typical musical tone found on most clocks with three winding points is the Westminster chime. Some clocks provide more choices such as the Schatz W3 bracket clock which has 3 musical tones, St Michael’s, Whittington and Westminster.

On older clocks, there may or may not be an additional strike on the half-hour. Older antique clocks from the mid-1800s, for example, typically do not strike on the half-hour to preserve the wind on the strike side.

Typically, striking clocks have two winding points, while chiming clocks have three.

Where Winding Points Are Located

On this spring-driven, Seth Thomas mantel clock (photo below) the left arbour, indicated by an arrow, winds the strike side and the right arbour, the right arrow winds the time side. The smaller hole just below the centre cannon is for regulating the clock using a double-ended key.

Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows)
Winding arbours on an antique Seth Thomas mantel clock

On the Ingraham clock (photo below), there is only one set or train of gears that indicates it is a time-only clock, hence the single arbour or winding point. The barely visible, smaller hole in the loop end of the “2” on the number 12 is for regulating the clock.

Winding arbor on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock
Winding arbour on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock

If you find the sound of the strike unpleasant or it disturbs your guests, you can wind only the time side, and the clock will still run perfectly fine without winding the strike side.

However, to ensure even wear and proper maintenance, it is advisable to wind both sides of a striking clock.

The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock

Most clocks are designed to run for eight days. Some older clocks run 30 hours and others run as long as 30 days on a wind. Still others such as anniversary clocks will run 400 days on a wind.

Double-ended Key

For eight-day clocks, winding once a week ensures the clock continues running smoothly. Establishing a routine, such as winding your clock(s) on the same day each week, is a helpful habit. It’s also a good idea to make occasional adjustments to your clock, such as fine-tuning its speed to account for seasonal changes. You can find more details in an article I wrote about regulating your clock.

Clock Keys

It is common for a newly acquired clock to come without a key, and if it does have one, it is usually a replacement. Finding a clock with its original key is quite rare. The key that accompanies the clock is likely to fit, but if your clock has a speed adjustment arbour (marked F-S) on the dial, typically located near the top, it should have a double-ended key.

If your clock has a one-ended winding key and a speed adjustment arbour is present, the key is not original to the clock. Double-ended keys are necessary because the speed adjustment arbour is considerably smaller than the winding arbour.

Key Size and Type

All mechanical clocks require a winding key, like the one shown below. The exceptions are alarm clocks and some carriage clocks, which have built-in winding keys. Keys come in various sizes, so it’s important to have the correct size for your clock’s arbour. The key should fit snugly without being too loose.

If your clock came without a key it can be purchased at any clock supply house such as Perrin in Vancouver, Canada. Timesavers and Merritts are clock suppliers in the USA where keys can be purchased.

Here is an article on key sizes.

Ingraham Huron winding key
Ingraham Huron winding key. Home-made but functional and over 120 years old

Over-winding a clock is a common myth.  A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil

Winding Your Mechanical Clock

If the dial is covered by a glass door, open it to access the clock face. Insert the key into one of the winding arbours and use your non-dominant hand to steady the case while winding. To protect the finish of the case, it’s a good idea to wear a cotton glove on your non-dominant hand.

Next, turn the key clockwise. If it doesn’t turn clockwise, try turning it counterclockwise. Some clocks wind in either direction, so this is normal. Avoid forcing the key; apply minimal pressure and continue winding until you feel resistance. Once you encounter resistance, stop winding and do not force the key further.

Below is a clear example of a previous owner using excessive force to wind the movement in the wrong direction. The right spring barrel has become unhooked from the main wheel, which only happens when significant force is applied while winding in the opposite direction.

If you lose the key, simply purchase a replacement. Never use pliers or any other hand tools to wind a clock.

Daniel Dakota movement
Chinese clock movement

The “clicking” sound heard while winding the arbour is the click engaging the ratchet on the mainspring. The ratchet’s purpose is to secure the mainspring in place with each turn of the key.

An 8-day clock usually requires about 14 half turns of the key as the arbour does one complete turn per day.

Mainspring rachet and click
Mainspring ratchet and click. 



Allow the key to gently return to its click. On the rare occasion that the click slips or breaks, resist the urge to release it quickly. Instead, let the key slowly unwind in your hand to prevent potential damage to the teeth, gears, and even your hand. Letting the key go suddenly can cause collateral damage to other parts of the movement.

The myth of overwinding a clock is common, but a clock that “seems” overwound actually seizes due to a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil, which causes the coil to stick. Regular servicing of a mechanical clock is an essential part of ownership and helps prevent future issues.

Clocks with Weights

Not all clocks use springs — for example, grandfather clocks and one-day ogee clocks are weight-driven. On these clocks, the weights must be raised to the top to begin the weekly time cycle. This can be done either by inserting a crank key into the winding arbor on the clock face or by manually pulling the chains to lift the weights.

For clocks with winding chains, gently pull down on the shorter side of the chain until the weight reaches the underside of the wooden seatboard, stopping at the weight stop bar. Repeat this process for the remaining two chains if it’s a chiming clock. Allow the chains to do the work — do not assist by lifting the weights at the same time. Pushing up on the weights could cause the chain to slip over the winding gear teeth or become unhooked. To protect the brass finish on the weight shells, wear cotton gloves while steadying the weights as they are pulled up.

For tall case clocks with cable drives, use a crank key to wind by inserting the key into each winding hole on the clock face. Turn the key slowly until the weights are raised to the top.

All three weights on a chiming grandfather clock descend more or less together through the week.

On older tall case clocks with weights hidden behind an access door, open the door to watch the weights rise as you wind the clock. As the weights near the top, slow down and stop when you feel resistance.

Thirty-hour time and strike or one-day clocks are typically wound with a winding crank inserted in the dial face winding points once per day. Wind the weights to the top of the case at approximately the same time each day.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, take pride in your mechanical clock and the craftsmanship it represents. Wind it regularly, care for it properly, and have it serviced when necessary. Even if you prefer not to keep it running, cherish it as a remarkable piece of horological heritage.

For visual learners who prefer to see the process in action, I’ve created a helpful video demonstration showing exactly how to wind a clock. You can watch it here:

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