Tag: mantel clock

Walter Clocks of Toronto: A Nearly Forgotten Chapter in Canadian Clockmaking

Among Canadian clocks, some names are immediately recognizable — Pequegnat, Canada Clock Company, Hamilton Clock Company, Wesclox from Peterbourough or Seth Thomas and New Haven imports sold through Canadian retailers. Others, however, tell a quieter story. Walter Clocks of Toronto belongs firmly in that second group, yet its history represents one of the last meaningful chapters of traditional clock manufacturing in Canada.

About two years ago, I made an effort to connect with surviving members of the Stonkus family and was able to reach one of Walter Stonkus’s granddaughters, as I recall. I proposed a question-and-answer format, with the intention of later shaping the material into a blog article. Unfortunately, despite a follow-up, I did not receive any further correspondence.

Since then, I have pieced together what information I could from a variety of online sources including The Canadian Clock Museum, located in Deep River, Ontario (Canada). While there are still some obvious gaps in the story, my goal here is simply to provide a general sense of Walter Clocks and their contribution to clockmaking in Canada.

So, let’s begin.

The company was founded by Walter Stonkus, who immigrated to Canada from Lithuania in 1927. Trained originally as a watchmaker, Walter brought with him both mechanical knowledge and European craftsmanship at a time when Canada was still developing its own manufacturing identity. By the early 1930s, the Toronto-based firm operated under the name Walter Stonkus and Sons Clocks.

From the beginning, the company followed a model common among Canadian makers: build the cases locally while sourcing precision movements from Europe.

Walter’s real strength appears to have been in design and cabinetmaking. Clock cases were produced in Toronto, often using walnut veneer before the Second World War, and stained birch in later years. The quality of the clock cases seems almost at odds with the small size of the company. Despite being a modest operation, Walter produced cases of remarkably high quality.

These early clocks typically featured spiral gongs and reflected the popular mantel styles of the era — practical, handsome, and intended for everyday homes rather than grand showpieces. It is also possible, though unconfirmed, that Walter clocks supplied finished cases to the Forestville Clock Co., operating in Toronto, Ontario (Canada) at the same time.

Like many small manufacturers, the company’s progress was interrupted by the Second World War. Production was suspended, largely due to the difficulty of obtaining imported movements and the broader shift of industry toward wartime needs.

When production resumed after the war, the business entered a new phase. Walter’s son Bill joined the company, and several recognizable design features emerged. Postwar clock cases were often made from stained birch, and many models incorporated what became something of a Walter trademark — a round removable back door that allowed easy access to the movement. German-made Urgos movements, both two-train and three train, powered many of these clocks, combining reliable European mechanics with distinctly Canadian cabinetry.

In many ways, Walter Clocks filled an important gap in Canadian horology. After the closure of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company in 1941, very few domestic manufacturers remained. Walter Clocks, along with the Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto, helped carry Canadian clockmaking into the mid-20th century, even as the industry itself was beginning to change.

By the 1950s tastes were shifting. Mantel clocks were no longer the focal point of the living room. Television sets were taking their place, and inexpensive electric clocks were rapidly gaining popularity. Like many traditional makers, Walter Clocks adapted by moving into cuckoo clocks, 400-day clocks, and alarm clocks — products that reflected changing consumer demand. Increasing competition from imported clocks further reduced the viability of local production.

Walter Stonkus’s set of Starrett measuring tools

The company ultimately ceased operations sometime in the late 1950s. The exact year — and the precise reasons for closure — remain uncertain, but Walter Clocks had operated in Toronto for more than thirty years, a respectable lifespan for a small Canadian manufacturer navigating enormous technological and cultural change.

Today, Walter clocks occupy an interesting place for collectors. They are not rare in the sense of limited experimental pieces, nor were they mass-produced in American quantities. They were never a large industrial producer, which explains why surviving examples feel scarce today.

Sadly, relatively few of these clocks survive today, and they seldom appear for sale online. While browsing Facebook Marketplace the other day, I came across one very much like the example pictured below, though fitted with a Westminster chimes movement. It was in poor condition and listed as a non-working, parts clock. Otherwise, it was the first example I have seen come up for sale in quite some time.

From The Canadian Clock Museum

The Walter Clock Co. represents something uniquely Canadian: practical craftsmanship, locally built cases, and dependable European movements assembled for everyday households.

For collectors like myself, these clocks serve as reminders that horological history is not only written through grand innovations or famous names. Sometimes it is found in the steady work of immigrant craftsmen who built honest, functional objects meant to live quietly on mantels across the country — marking time for generations of Canadian families.

Related Link

  • Ten active clock companies in Canada in the 1950s; Canadian clock collectors are most familiar with the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, which closed its doors in 1941 but 7 years later a number of clock companies were alive and flourishing in Canada, predominantly in areas in and around Toronto.

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Your Clock Has Stopped | Follow These First 5 Steps Before Calling A Clock Repairer

There are few things more frustrating for an antique or vintage clock owner than when a favorite clock suddenly stops. Mechanical clocks are intricate machines, but that doesn’t always mean the problem is complicated. In fact, many stoppages are caused by small, simple issues that can be corrected at home without tools or technical expertise.

Before you assume the worst or take your clock to a repair shop, here are 5 things you can do yourself to have your clock ticking again.

1. Is the Clock Wound?

It may sound obvious, but the most common reason a clock stops is simply that it has run down. Spring-driven clocks need their mainsprings wound fully with a key, while weight-driven clocks require the weights to be raised. All mechanical clocks require power to operate. Simply put, if the clock is not wound, it cannot run — so always begin here before moving on to more complex possibilities.

Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows)
Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows)

2. Is the Clock Level and in Beat?

Pendulum clocks must be in beat to function properly. Being “in beat” means that the tick and tock are evenly spaced in time. If the case is leaning or the crutch (the arm that drives the pendulum) is out of position, the pendulum will quickly stall. Place the clock on a level surface and listen carefully: if the tick and tock sound uneven, adjust the clock slightly to the left or right until the beat evens out. Sometimes, fine adjustments to the crutch are necessary, but often leveling the case is all it takes.

Unless your wall clock is anchored, simply moving the case very slightly left or right and listening for an even beat is all that’s required.

Is your clock level on the wall?

3. Is the Pendulum Free to Swing?

The pendulum is the heart of your clock, and it must swing freely without interference. Check that the suspension spring is straight and properly seated, not twisted or bent. Make sure the pendulum bob is not rubbing against the backboard, striking the chime rods, or touching the bottom of the case. Any sort of rubbing will affect the swing of the pendulum, thereby robbing the clock of power. The smallest obstruction can rob the pendulum of momentum and bring the clock to a halt.

Clocks with a floating balance or a hairspring escapement are popular with some collectors since they continue running even when the surface isn’t perfectly level.

A mantel clock movement showing the pendulum

4. Are the Hands Binding?

Sometimes the problem lies not with the movement but with the clock hands. If the hour and minute hands are rubbing against each other, or if the minute hand is scraping against the dial or the glass, the train can be stopped entirely. If the clock stops at a specific time every 12 hours, hands that are interfering with each other are likely the culprit. Inspect the hands carefully and make sure there is a little clearance between them. A gentle outward bend is usually all that’s needed to free them.

Any one of the four hands on this clock can cause interference

5. Is the Movement Dirty or Dry?

Mechanical clocks rely on clean pivots and fresh oil. Over time, old oil becomes gummy and collects dust, creating friction that will eventually stop the clock. If you notice dry or blackened pivot holes, sticky residue, or an overall grimy look to the movement, then lack of servicing is likely the culprit. Gummed-up oil in the mainspring coils can also cause the springs to appear as if they are glued together. Some people incorrectly refer to this condition as a clock that is “over-wound”.

When I first examine a newly purchased clock that does not run, I carefully release the mainspring’s power and then attempt to run the movement. If it runs, that tells me the mainsprings require servicing. At this point, the clock will need a complete cleaning and oiling by a qualified repairer.

Very dirty movement
A very dirty movement

Conclusion: When Simple Fixes Aren’t Enough

If you have checked these five areas and your clock still refuses to run, the cause is almost certainly deeper and more complex. Worn pivot holes, tired mainsprings, bent teeth, or other mechanical issues may be at fault — problems that cannot be corrected with quick at-home adjustments. A clock movement may appear clean, yet still be quite worn — something you can’t always detect without disassembly.

The good news is that your clock is very likely repairable, but it will require the attention of an experienced clockmaker. By ruling out these simple issues first, you’ll know with confidence when it’s time to seek professional help, and you may just save yourself a service call.

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Beginner’s Guide to Choosing an Antique or Vintage Clock

Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks

Buying your first clock is an exciting journey, but it can also feel a bit daunting. In this article, I’ll share some practical tips and advice to help you choose your first clock and discuss the various types of clocks to consider.

One of the goals of this blog is to introduce antique and vintage clocks to younger generations and inspire an appreciation for these remarkable mechanical devices from the past. In today’s modern age of a throw-away culture, how many items can you think of that still function flawlessly after more than a century? It is a short list indeed!

Before we get started, let me clarify two key assumptions. First, I’m assuming you’re not purchasing your first clock with the goal of turning a profit. If profit is your motive I won’t be much help to you. Having collected clocks for many years, I can tell you that buying and selling clocks rarely yields significant financial returns. Of course, there are always exceptions.

Second, this guide focuses on mechanical clocks rather than electric, quartz, or electro-mechanical models. While some of the latter are certainly attractive, there are other resources available for learning more about these types of clocks.

An antique mechanical clock operates through a system of metal gears and levers, powered by weights or springs, wound manually, and displays the time. These clocks were essential for daily life in the past, providing reliable timekeeping that helped people manage their routines, coordinate activities, and regulate work, particularly before the advent of modern electrical or digital timekeeping devices.

Let’s explore why you would want an antique or vintage clock.

Choosing an Antique or Vintage Clock

Is the clock for decoration, an expression of your new interest in horology, or are you starting a collection? Your motivation for acquiring your first clock is important, as it involves an investment of your money.

Establishing a budget is essential to guide your decision. If your primary goal is to use the clock as a decorative piece, the condition of the case may take priority, and whether the movement works might not be a concern. However, if you want a functional clock and the one you choose is not in working condition, you’ll need to account for potential repair or restoration costs in your budget.

When considering the clock’s condition, it’s important to assess whether it’s running or in need of repair. A case that shows significant wear often indicates that the movement may also be in poor condition. Some damage can be repaired, but other types of damage may be expensive to fix, and if the clock was inexpensive to begin with, the cost of repairs may outweigh the value. An example of this is pieces of veneer missing on a clock. While small imperfections may be acceptable, large areas of missing veneer can significantly affect the clock’s appearance. Replacing large sections of veneer should be left to a professional restorer.

Miniature Ogee
The case requires new sections of veneer

Clocks with an interesting provenance may not only be more desirable to collectors but can also serve as fascinating conversation starters. Understanding who made the clock and where it was produced is crucial. A clock from a renowned manufacturer or region known for quality craftsmanship can be more valuable.

A clock with a well-documented ownership history, especially if it has been in the hands of notable individuals or has an intriguing backstory, can make it more desirable. If it was owned by a historical figure or used in a significant event, this can greatly enhance its appeal.

Look for original labels, receipts, or certificates of authenticity that confirm the clock’s origin, age, and maker.

If the clock has thorough documentation, be prepared to pay a premium price. Look for a clock with a known history of quality repairs or restorations, especially if these were done by reputable professionals.

The location and placement of the clock can influence your choice of type and size. For example, in a 600-square-foot apartment, a grandfather clock might not be the best option. A small mantel or novelty clock can be placed almost anywhere, while wall clocks don’t take up valuable floor or shelf space.

Antique and vintage mechanical clocks require periodic care and upkeep because their components are subject to wear and aging over time. The materials used in older clocks, such as metal gears, springs, and wood, can degrade or become less effective without regular maintenance. This should be taken into account when making your decision.

An emotional connection is important. You should select a clock that you genuinely connect with, as it will become a lasting part of your environment. Purchasing a clock simply because it’s inexpensive, but not to your taste, may lead to regret.

And finally, consider starting with a straightforward, reliable clock before diving into more complex or high-maintenance pieces.

Here are the Types of Clocks to Consider and Why

Mantel Clocks are compact clocks designed to sit on a mantelpiece or shelf. They often feature a strike while some might also feature a chiming mechanism such as Westminster chimes.

A mantel clock is a good entry point for beginners due to its manageable size and the many different styles and designs. In North America, popular examples come from manufacturers such as Seth Thomas, Ingraham, New Haven, Gilbert, and Pequegnat.

Wall Clocks are designed to hang on walls, ranging from simple schoolhouse styles to ornate regulator clocks. These clocks are ideal for those with limited floor space and looking for a functional piece. Look for clocks that are complete, with no missing parts, and inspect hands, glass, and the movement for any problems.

Grandfather Clocks otherwise known as Longcase Clocks, Tall Case Clocks, or Hall Clocks are tall, freestanding clocks often over six feet tall, with pendulums, often featuring intricate mechanisms and chimes. These clocks are statement pieces suitable for those with ample space.

Maintenance can be more demanding, and many of these clocks especially from the 1980s and 1990s have movements that are near the end of or at the end of their service life. A gently used tall case clock can provide many more years of service. While these clocks are undeniably charming, their sound might be a bit too loud for some individuals.

Cuckoo Clocks are typically from Germany, these whimsical clocks are known for their animated cuckoo bird and decorative carvings. These clocks are great for a touch of old country charm and fun, often appealing to families. All inexpensive ones require winding once per day and the cuckoo sound can be annoying for some. Look for an eight-day model instead.

Dave's cuckoo clock
Cuckoo clock

Ogee Clocks are classic 19th-century weight-driven clocks with a simple yet elegant design. They are an affordable entry into antique clocks and often come with a rich history. Ensure the glass and reverse-painted artwork are intact, as these are defining features. Shelf space is required as these clocks are not meant to be hung.

Most are 30-hour clocks that require winding once per day which some might regard as an annoyance if the intent is to have them running daily. Eight-day clocks are preferable since they require winding once per week. For a shelf clock, they are quite large and space could be a factor to consider.

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee

Shelf Clocks are a broader category encompassing small to medium-sized clocks that fit on shelves or desks. They are practical and versatile, with a range of styles to suit different tastes.

Fancy clocks with intricate visible designs display beautifully and can serve purely decorative purposes.

HAC mantel clock
HAC mantel clock

Anniversary Clocks feature mechanisms that can run a year or more, have glass domes, and feature a rotating pendulum. They make a striking display and serve as fascinating conversation pieces. Historically, they were often presented as wedding gifts.

Kundo standard size 400 day clock

Novelty Clocks are clocks with unique designs, animations, or themes. They add personality and character to any room often sparking conversations. They can be as small as an alarm clock and can be placed just about anywhere in a room.

Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks

Buying your first clock is a rewarding experience that combines history, craftsmanship, and personal taste. By considering factors such as your budget, the clock’s condition, provenance, and placement, you can make an informed decision and choose a piece that brings lasting enjoyment.

Remember to select a clock that resonates with you personally, as it will become a cherished part of your space. With thoughtful planning and care, your first clock can be the start of a lifelong appreciation for the art and beauty of horology.

2

Troubleshooting A Strike Issue on a HAC/HAU Movement

The maker of the movement is HAU or HAC. The familiar cross arrows trademark of the maker is stamped on the movement, in the middle of the backplate.

HAC was formed in Germany in 1873 by Paul Landenberger and Phillipp Lang and was originally called Landenberger & Lang Uhrenfabrik. The company changed its name to Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik (HAU)/Hamburg American Clock Company (HAC) in 1883. The famous crossed-arrows became their trademark in 1892. In 1926 the company went into a cooperative with Junghans and in 1930 they finally merged with Junghans.

HAC trademark
HAC trademark

HAC/HAU clocks can be difficult to date prior to Junghans acquisition of HAC/HAU in 1930. Once Junghans and HAC began their collaboration in 1926 some of the movements were date coded.

Now on to the adjustment of the movement that is the subject of this article.

Strike Adjustment Required

Earlier in the fall this time and strike mantel clock was serviced. During the servicing six new bushings were installed, all components were cleaned, the mainsprings serviced and the clock reassembled and tested.

The movement has been cleaned and serviced

However, during testing, the movement did not strike correctly. While there can be several causes, the most common of which is a misalignment of the hammer tail with the star points on the star wheel. This issue frequently arises during the reassembly of this type of clock movement.

Taking the time to carefully double-check the placement of parts, and ensure everything is in its correct place will help ensure the reassembly is smooth and successful. Once the wheels are in place there is only one multi-arm ever that resides between the plates. Position it such that the long arm rests in one of the deep slots of the count wheel while a short arm is placed in the cut-out of the cam wheel.

My usual practice is to position all the wheels and the lever(s) on the plate that has the movement posts, first. Once the wheels are correctly located, I lower the front plate onto the back plate. I secure two nuts to the mainspring end which prevents the movement plates from moving around as I position the upper wheels and their pivots in the train.

Setting up the strike side can be tricky. The wheels and levers must be set up correctly or the strike will not function. For instance, the width of the slots on the count wheel tells us that there is no “passing strike” on this movement. In some count wheel movements, for example, in many American-made movements, the half-hour is actuated by a cam on the centre arbour.

The pin-wheel, which is uppermost and one wheel removed from the fly on the strike side, is placed in approximately the 10 to 12 o’clock position, called the “warning” position. This allows for a half-turn to set up the strike.

To make the adjustment of the star wheel there is no need to completely disassemble the movement. Loosen the nuts on the strike side and gently lift the plate taking care not to dislodge the wheels on the time side. Disengage the star wheel from the adjacent wheel and rotate it slightly so that the hammer tail is in the middle of two of the star tips.

Tail and star point (arrows), in this photo, the tail is almost resting on the star point which is not the optimal position

The adjustment was made. On the test stand, the hammer tail isn’t perfectly centered between two of the star points, but it should function adequately.

If the hammer tail is in contact with the star point at the end of the strike sequence, it will hold in the raised position and the strike may not function at all from that point onward. While you are making this adjustment, ensure that the strike lever spring (which is a straight wire) is on the outside of the strike arbour.

In Sum

Adjusting the strike mechanism on an HAC movement requires patience, precision, and attention to detail. By carefully aligning the hammer paddle, star wheel, and other components, you can restore the clock’s striking functionality and ensure reliable performance. While challenges such as this are common when reassembling these movements, a systematic approach and an understanding of the mechanism’s function can make the process smoother.

0

Why I Changed My Mind About the Dial Bezel on a Pequegnat Jewel Mantel Clock

After working on the dial of a Pequegnat Jewel mantel clock, I was very pleased with the results of the repaint. While the detailing may not withstand close scrutiny, the clock looks excellent from a comfortable distance.

When I brought the clock home, it appeared that a previous owner, frustrated by the loss of some or most of the paint on the dial, chose not to source a replacement but instead stripped the paint entirely, leaving only the numerals.

Photo taken on the day the clock was purchased

Someone had gone to great lengths to meticulously scrape away all the paint, but the result is far from appealing.

Something Still Troubled Me

I decided to address the missing paint on the dial by repainting it and touching up the numerals, and the results met my expectations.

After repainting the dial and retouching the numerals

It continued to bother me that the glass surround had a brassy gold appearance, while the dial bezel exhibited a bronze-like tone.

Although brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, with variations in composition potentially explaining this difference, I suspect that’s not the case here.

Instead, I believe the glass surround was originally painted gold, as small flakes of paint came off while I was cleaning it with a toothpick and cloth. Should I leave it as-is or match the outer bezel to the inner one? I’d have to think about it—a two-toned dial looked odd.

A Decision Was Made

Since the dial and surround had already been altered, I decided to take it a step further and repaint the inner bezel as well. With the right shade of acrylic paint on hand, I went ahead and tackled the task.

Some might argue that I went too far with the repainted dial and bezel, believing that any changes made to the clock over time are part of its history. However, I don’t share that perspective. To me, a poor repair from the past justifies taking steps to set things right. Leaving a damaged dial on a clock case that is otherwise in near-perfect condition would be a shame.

From a different angle

I have no regrets about my decision—if anything, I’ve now contributed to its history.

By correcting such mistakes, I believe I honour the intent and skill of the original maker. Restoring a clock to a condition closer to its authentic appearance helps preserve its aesthetic value for future generations.

What do you think?

8

Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik | Servicing an 8-day Countwheel Strike Movement – Part II

I am currently working on a mantel clock from the Hamburg American Clock Company. This is Part II in a two-part series. For Part I go here.

The Hamburg American Clock Company is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU and in many parts of the world, it is simply known as HAC.

HAC mantel clock circa 1926

In Part I, I described the steps taken so far which are disassembly, inspection, cleaning of the parts, and polishing of all pivots. The next steps are bushing work, reassembly, oiling (the mainsprings were oiled in a previous step), and finally, testing.

I believe this is the No. 36 movement by HAC.

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement #36

The wheels that spin the fastest typically show the most bushing wear, but wear can also appear in other areas, such as the main wheels, which endure significant torque. For instance, I observed punch marks on the cap side of each mainspring barrel. While punching around any bushing hole is generally poor practice, it appears this was done at some point in the clock’s history and can’t be reversed. Nonetheless, the repair seems to have held up well.

Bushing Work

I have seen similar movements with much more wear than this one, but I felt that some bushing work was necessary to extend the clock’s lifespan.

Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine

Six Bergeon brass bushings were installed in total. For the time side (T), bushings were placed at T1 (front and back) and T3 (back). For the strike side (S), bushings were installed at S3 (back), S2 (front), and S4 (front). The numbers indicate the wheel location in the train beginning from the bottom. A couple of pivot holes were borderline, but I decided to leave them as they are.

Reassembly

It pays to be patient and methodical during reassembly. Rushing can lead to mistakes, such as missing steps or improperly aligning parts, which could cause malfunctions or even damage later. Taking the time to carefully double-check the placement of parts, and ensure everything is in its correct place will help ensure the reassembly is smooth and successful.

An older HAC movement, without the barrel cutouts

Once the wheels are in place the lever and there is only one multi-arm ever that resides between the plates. Position it such that the long arm rests in one of the deep slots of the count wheel while a short arm is placed in the cut out of the cam wheel (as above).

Positioning the pivots is a delicate process, and any forceful handling can result in a bent or broken pivot. In this, as in all cases when aligning pivots, a pivot locator is your best tool.

Pivot locator

My usual practice is to position all the wheels and the lever(s) on the plate with the movement posts, first. Once the wheels are correctly located, I lower the front plate onto the back plate. I secure two nuts to the mainspring end which prevents the movement plates from coming apart as I position the upper wheels in the train.

The pin-wheel, which is uppermost and one wheel removed from the fly on the strike side, is placed in approximately the 12 o’clock position, the warning position. At the same time the hammer paddle is positioned between two of the points on the star wheel. More than once I have had to go back in to make minor adjustments when the paddle hangs up on one of the star points. It looks like this one is also a candidate for that very adjustment.

A Timetrax machine is used to adjust the beat and the rate of the movement.

The movement has been placed on a test stand and the time side Is in beat and running as it should according to my Timetrax machine. Curiously, the Timetrax manual lists only one HAU/HAC movement, a three-train one but this one is likely similar to Junghans bracket clock movements which runs at 164 bpm. Junghans is mentioned for comparison because, by 1930, the company had successfully taken full control of HAC.

Testing

The testing phase is crucial in the process of servicing a clock, often taking the most time because it ensures that the clock is functioning properly before it is reunited with its case.

On the test stand

During this phase, the clock is put through various operational checks to simulate real-time performance, which helps in identifying any issues that may not have been apparent during the initial servicing or cleaning process. Issues such over-tightened or loose components can present themselves as well as problems with the escapement mechanism.

The testing phase serves as an important diagnostic step to identify what further repairs or adjustments may be needed.

This concludes the servicing of an 8-day HAU/HAC movement. If you have any comments or feedback on any of the steps in the process, please feel free to share!

Servicing a HAC Clock Movement

Among clock collectors and admirers, the Hamburg American Clock Company is a well-known German company. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU and in many parts of the world, it is simply known as HAC.

In this post, I will outline the procedures involved in servicing the movement of a HAC mantel clock produced circa 1925. It’s worth noting that HAC crafted clocks for international markets, and in the case of this particular clock, it spent a period in England after its initial manufacturing.

Time and strike mantel clock made by the Hamburg American Clock Co. known as HAC or HAU
Time and strike mantel clock made by the Hamburg American Clock Co. known as HAC or HAU

Disassembling the movement

After removing the clock hands and releasing the six screws that attach the movement to the front dial board the movement can be maneuvered carefully around the bronze rod gong without having to remove the gong itself.

Front of type 36 HAC movement
Front of type 36 HAC movement

Once out of its case, the first step is to remove the suspension spring and pendulum leader. A taper pin secures the spring onto the suspension post.

Next, safely let down the mainsprings using a letdown tool. On this movement, and I have not seen it elsewhere, there is a small pin on each rachet. Once the letdown tool is placed in the arbour, it is a simple matter of pushing the pin on the click with a small screwdriver and allowing the rachet to run freely, under control, of course.

The pin on the click is indicated by an arrow
The pin is indicated by an arrow

At this point, the two exterior wheels, both rachets with their retainers and the click springs can be removed as well as the “V” shaped stop lever.

On the front of the movement, two screws hold the pallet arbour plate, and with it comes the crutch. Note the position of the small pallet arbour plate for future reference. This is also a good time to remove the hammer from its arbour but the plates can be separated with the hammer still attached.

At this stage release the 4 nuts holding the movement and the back plate can be removed. There are two springs which look like stiff wire, one is for the count lever and the other for the hammer. Do not break these springs and be careful handling the plate once it is separated. The wire springs can be repaired if they break but it adds more work to servicing.

Plate is removed exposing wheels and levers
Plate is removed

Once the plate is lifted from the movement, the wheels and levers can be removed. Strike and time side wheels are then separated into containers. I like working from the top down and carefully removing each wheel one at a time. The centre cannon is the last wheel to be removed. The half-hour cam, a star wheel with two points, is on a tube which can be pulled off the arbour and the centre wheel easily lifts out. Once the centre cannon is removed the mainspring barrels can be extracted and put aside for servicing.

Assessing wear

Identifying whether a movement has undergone previous work can be challenging, but scratch marks around pivot holes typically suggest past work. An unmistakable sign of prior servicing is the presence of punch marks, as observed around the mainspring barrel on the time side. The aggressive punching suggests that the arbour hole was enlarged considerably. However, the arbour’s fit through the barrel appears sufficiently tight, indicating no immediate concern.

Time-side mainspring barrel showing punch marks
Time-side mainspring barrel showing punch marks

While it’s not approved today, punching pivot holes was a common practice in the past.

The movement is relatively clean but over-oiled the result of simply lubricating the clock over the years without actually checking to see if it required new oil.

There are very few issues with the movement with a potential need for two new bushings on the strike side and just one on the time side.

Cleaning the movement parts

Cleaning a clock movement’s parts is a fundamental step in the maintenance and restoration process. It not only improves the immediate performance of the clock but also contributes to its long-term durability and accuracy.

Cleaning a mechanical movement’s parts before reassembling a clock movement is crucial for several reasons, to remove dirt and debris, prevent wear and damage, optimize performance identify and any perfomance issues. Cleaning is often accompanied by the application of fresh lubrication to key components. Lubrication reduces friction between moving parts, minimizing wear and ensuring smoother operation. This step is vital for maintaining the health of the movement.

A tale of two mantel clocks – German vs American engineering

Assessing the quality of mantel clocks, whether American or German, involves considering various factors such as craftsmanship, materials used, design, and overall reliability. Both American and German manufacturers have a rich history in clockmaking, and each has its own unique characteristics.

In my collection, I’ve assembled a diverse array of clocks, featuring both American and European examples. Drawing upon my experiences, I can confidently say that when it comes to overall quality, I find myself favouring a typical German clock over its American counterpart.

American mantel clocks are known for their diversity in design and style. Manufacturers like Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Waterbury, Sessions, and others have produced a wide range of mantel clocks with different aesthetic influences. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in many American mantel clocks are often praised. Some American manufacturers have a tradition of incorporating high-quality materials, such as solid wood and detailed finishes.

However, the American mantel clock market has seen fluctuations in quality over time. Some collectors and enthusiasts may argue that the mid-20th century saw a decline in craftsmanship as manufacturers faced increased competition and economic pressures.

I see this clearly in American mechanical clocks made in the 1920s and 1930s. There is a definite step downwards in quality and the goal of production seems to have been to maximize profits.

Germany has a long-standing reputation for precision engineering and quality craftsmanship, and this extends to its clockmaking industry. German mantel clocks, especially those produced by renowned manufacturers like Mauthe, Junghans, HAC, Kienzle, Gustav Becker, and others are often associated with precision movements and reliable timekeepers.

German mantel clocks are also known for their mechanical excellence and commitment to traditional clockmaking techniques. Many German clocks feature intricately designed cases and precise movements, often with a focus on accuracy and durability.

German clock manufacturers maintained their commitment to producing high-quality clocks well into the 1920s and 1930s. Instead of compromising on materials or craftsmanship, they opted to charge a premium for their clocks, ensuring that the level of quality remained consistently high.

A comparison

Let’s compare a common German mantel clock with its American counterpart. Both are in my collection.

Junghans bracket style mantel clock
Junghans bracket style mantel clock

The Junghans mantel clock features a design reminiscent of the popular bracket-style clocks that were fashionable several years before its production around 1915. It has a mahogany veneered case, a brass case handle, brass features below the dial, a solid brass dial bezel with beveled glass, and elegant brass feet. Its sturdy time and strike movement, known for its reliability during that era, adds to the clock’s appeal as a dependable clock for the home.

Seth Thomas time and strike with type 89 movement
Seth Thomas time and strike with type 89 movement

The Seth Thomas clock, manufactured in the United States, showcases a case of inferior quality, a basic brass bezel, and a simulated wood veneer that imitates the appearance of exotic wood. Cost-saving to maximize profit was the ultimate priority during the period of manufacture of this clock from the early 1930s.

Despite this, the clock is equipped with the reliable and durable type 89 movement, which has proven to be bulletproof and dependable over time.

Servicing a German vs an American movement

There are pros and cons to servicing either type of movement. German time and strike movements can be a bit more intricate and finicky, especially when setting up the strike side, as lining up the parts correctly is crucial. Dealing with smaller pivots also increases the risk of damage, bending, or breaking.

Conversely, with American time and strike movements, the larger pivots minimize breakage and it requires brute strength to inflict any damage when manipulating the parts.

However crude an American movement might appear in a side-by-side comparison with a German movement, there is a notable advantage to the former. An American movement (generally speaking) can endure wear much better than a German movement, and it can continue to run effectively even when significantly worn.

That said, when both are set up correctly and any wear is mitigated both American and German movements function reliably for years.

In Summary

Both American and German mantel clocks can offer high-quality options, but individual preferences may vary based on factors like design preferences and specific features.

Collectors and enthusiasts often appreciate the historical context and craftsmanship associated with clocks from both regions.

Obviously, your source of clocks depends on where you live in the world as Canadian and American clocks are widely available to those living in North America whereas the opposite is true for European and Australian residents, for example.

One last thing to note is that precision regulators from both countries are of equal quality. Whether American or German, both exhibit equal precision and performance. They both adhere to the highest standards and can be trusted for accurate timekeeping. It’s worth noting, however, that achieving such precision comes with a correspondingly high price.

These viewpoints represent my personal opinions, and I encourage readers to delve into researching specific models and manufacturers. Making an informed decision should be based on individual preferences and priorities.

Junghans round-top mantel clock – wrapping up servicing

In the past two weeks, my focus has been directed towards the servicing of a Junghans roundtop mantel clock. This particular time and strike mantel clock is the Hunsruck model manufactured in the second half of 1913 (stamped B13 on the rear plate). For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can go here. For a description of mainspring servicing, you can find that article here.

Junghans Hunsruck mantel clock C.1913

During this part of the servicing process, my attention will be focused on bushing work, reassembly (with some tips), final testing, and addressing the condition of the case.

Back of movement showing strike block and pendulum

My initial assessment revealed that the movement was generally in good condition. While some previous work had been done on it, limited to a basic cleaning, no substantial repairs were evident. Nevertheless, a conspicuous buildup of dirty oil was observed in most pivot holes, underscoring the need for a good cleaning.

Avoid using a taper pin for this lever (see arrow), as it would result in the lever being excessively tight; opt for a thin wire instead

Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations told me that new bushings were necessary: specifically, the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that move the tail that activates the hammer to produce the strike on the half hour.

The pivot holes were carefully cleaned out using toothpicks as the first step in the cleaning process. Subsequently, I examined the pivots on each wheel by running a fingernail across them to detect any ridges or imperfections, and they appeared to be in excellent condition. I also verified the integrity of the pins in each lantern pinion. Upon confirming that I had addressed all that I could at this point, the next phase involved cleaning the components in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Once everything was out of the ultrasonic cleaner all components were thoroughly dried to remove all traces of residual moisture.

Now to address the worn pivot holes.

A centering bit ensures an accurate cut

If you are accustomed to handling traditional time-and-strike American clocks, the small pivots on these German clocks might cause some unease. The diameter of each bushing measures just 2.47mm (Bergeon bushing size), whereas conventional bushings for an American clock are often 3.47mm and larger (again, Bergeon-sized bushings).

In the above photo, I use a centering bit to ensure a precise cut into the plate so that the bushing can be seamlessly inserted.

To ensure a precise fit the newly installed bushings are reamed using a cutting broach, followed by smoothing with a broach and cleaning with a toothpick. After each new bushing is in place, the wheels are test-fitted to ensure they spin freely plus sufficient end shake.

Given the delicate nature of the pivots, handling each one requires careful attention, as a broken pivot and its repair can be a challenging and intricate task on a German clock.

After the bushings are installed the movement is reassembled. Before attaching the back plate, all wheels, and levers are positioned in their respective locations.

Wheels and levers are ready for the rear place

To avoid having to remove the back plate to make further adjustments after assembly addressing four specific items will ease the process;

  • the count lever paddle must be in one of the deep slots of the count wheel,
  • the cam lever must be on the flat section of the cam,
  • the hammer tail must be positioned between two points of the star wheel (otherwise the tail contacts a star point, and the hammer will be left in the raised position preventing further striking)
  • and the pin on the warning wheel must be in the 12 o’clock position to catch the warning lever.

In my experience, the hammer tail contacting one of the star points is the most common of annoyances and calls for parting the plates. It is worth noting that the levers on clock movements of this specific type are not adjustable so, bending a lever to fit is not possible.

Pivot locator

Utmost attention must be paid to moving the pivots carefully into their respective holes as the risk of a broken pivot is very high at this point in the process. A “pivot locator” is an indispensable tool for safely moving pivots into their holes while working on the movement.

The pendulum is placed such that it can be seen through the front glass portal

Prior to mounting on the test stand, the movement is oiled using Keystone pivot oil. As with oiling any clock, the maxim is “less is more”.

The testing phase is one of the most crucial parts of the process, providing a chance to make minor adjustments and regulate the movement. I routinely ensure that the movement goes through at least two or three operational cycles while mounted on the test stand. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running well and needs no further remediation it goes back into its case.

While the movement is being tested I generally address any issues regarding the case. Little needed to be done to this attractive oak-cased roundtop and a general cleaning with Murphy’s soap and an application of paste wax preserved its patina while sprucing up its appearance.

Servicing an antique clock not only respects its history but also keeps its mechanism working for future generations to appreciate.

Junghans round top mantel clock servicing

I first wrote about this clock in April 2023 after having won it at auction. With so many other projects on the go, I can finally allocate time to focus on servicing this captivating German time and strike mantel clock.

Auction photo

The 1915 Junghans catalog identifies the clock as the Hunsruck, named after a mountain range in Germany, and provides its specifications as 28.5 cm in height with a mahogany or oak case construction, a 14-day run time, and a silvered dial. This clock is the mahogany cased model.

Junghans Hunsruck model

The movement is a time-and-strike design that was a hallmark feature of numerous Junghans mantel clocks during that period. I have one other Junghans mantel clock with an identical 151 movement.

Junghans Corner feet finished
Junghans Sydney with the 151 movement

The Junghans trademark is boldly showcased on the gong block and inscribed on the back of the movement. On the back plate, it is stamped B13 which denotes the movement as having been manufactured in the latter part of 1913.

Removing the movement from the case is relatively straightforward. The movement, which rests on a wooden support board is held in place by two rather large 1 1/8 inch wood screws. After taking the movement out of the case, two brass thumbscrews are removed to release the seat board.

Assessment

Upon my initial assessment, it appears that the movement is in decent condition, overall. However, there is a noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes, indicating a thorough cleaning is necessary.

Junghans movement with the back plate removed

Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations tell me that new bushings need to be installed: specifically, on the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that activate the hammer for the strike.

I use toothpicks to carefully clean out the pivot holes before immersing the plates in the ultrasonic cleaner as part of my standard practice. With a soft cloth, I clean and inspect the pivots on each wheel using a fingernail across the pivot to check for ridges and imperfections. I then check the integrity of the pins in each of the lantern pinions. Once satisfied that the inspection is complete the next step is cleaning the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner.

I will pause here and resume next week with the continuation of servicing the Junghans type 151 clock movement, including details about the necessary bushing work. Additionally, I will provide insights into the case’s condition. Stay tuned for the conclusion!

A Guide to Choosing Antique and Vintage Clocks as Unique Gifts

As the holiday season approaches, the search for a unique and meaningful gift becomes crucial. Antique or vintage clocks, often overlooked, can make a delightful and “timely” present. Whether you’re knowledgeable about clocks or a novice, finding the right one requires some understanding, and I’m here to provide you with some helpful pointers and explanations.

Why Buy an Antique or Vintage Clock?

People are drawn to antique or vintage clocks for sentimental reasons, the desire to own something antique, or the allure of a unique old mechanical clock. These reasons often top the list for those considering such a purchase.

Antique, Vintage or collectible

Determining the age of a clock can be tricky but a well-informed seller can confidently provide accurate information about the clock’s age to potential buyers, ensuring a fair and transparent transaction. Moreover, a clock’s age can often be determined through a date stamp on the movement or labels, providing accurate dating information for both sellers and buyers.

Generally, anything over 100 years old is considered antique, while vintage refers to items less than 100 years old but more than 30 years old. Items younger than 30 years are often called collectibles.

A Mauthe vintage clock from the 1940s

Types of Clocks: Mechanical or Otherwise

While there is a wide variety of clocks available, this article focuses on mechanical clocks both vintage and antique. Quartz clocks are common but have limited value. Electro-mechanical and electromagnetic clocks, while intriguing, are best left to expert collectors. Electric clocks from the 1930s and 1940s might intrigue the buyer but can be difficult to maintain and a non-functional clock can be potentially dangerous to those with a limited knowledge of electrical devices.

Choosing the Right Clock and Placement

Consider the available space when selecting a clock. Mantel clocks need shelves or tables, while wall clocks come in various sizes and styles and placement is less of a challenge. Although wall clocks require minimal space, some are hesitant to puncture a wall with a nail.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian shelf or mantel clock

Grandfather clocks (otherwise known in some circles as tall case, long case, and hall clocks), particularly those with impressive craftsmanship require ample floor space and a keen appreciation from the recipient.

Scottish tall case clock
Know the recipient if you are gifting a tall case clock

Furthermore, gifting a grandfather clock to an appreciative recipient ensures that it becomes a cherished heirloom, to be passed down through generations.

Cottage clocks, alarm clocks, and novelty clocks are compact, allowing them to fit into small spaces and be placed virtually anywhere.

This Sessions cottage clock is only 9 inches tall

Working or Non-Working Clock?

Ideally, a working clock recently serviced by a professional is the best choice and has the highest value. If a functional clock is used purely for decorative purposes, it can later be sold without affecting its value.

Sessions American No. 2
Sessions American No. 2, a working clock gifted as a decoration

If the clock serves a primarily decorative purpose, non-working ones can still be considered. Clocks as decorations often add a touch of vintage charm to a space, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. They can also evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminding individuals of days gone by. In addition, antique clocks with intricate designs can be conversation starters, becoming focal points in a room and reflecting the owner’s unique style and taste.

Tips for Clock Buying:

  1. Give preference to clocks that are operational; they are typically better maintained and can be easily resold by the recipient.
  2. Explore platforms like Facebook Marketplace, eBay, or local online sale sites. Opting for local transactions is favored because it eliminates the inconvenience of shipping, and meeting the seller in person provides the buyer with the flexibility to reconsider the purchase.
  3. Common clocks such as mantel clocks from the 1930s and 1940s are affordably priced, while unique or rare pieces might come at a much higher cost. In the realm of clocks, the determining factor for pricing isn’t solely the age of the clock, whether it’s 120 years old or 50. Rarity plays a significant role in establishing the value of a clock instead.
  4. Steer clear of clocks featuring directional arrows at the winding points; many of these are mass-produced Chinese clocks that come with powerful mainsprings, posing risks if they malfunction.
  5. The clock’s manufacturer is only vital if you’re seeking an exceptionally unique piece and are willing to spend significantly; instead, concentrate on the overall quality of the clock and its visual appeal.
  6. Conducting research is crucial to making a well-informed purchase decision. Examples are online resources, realized auction sales, networking, antique store visits, and books/publications.
  7. Be wary of any alterations, as they not only impact the clock’s value but can also alter its historical and aesthetic integrity. Thoroughly understanding the clock’s originality through basic research ensures a more satisfying and meaningful purchase.
  8. Whenever feasible, examine the clock in person to prevent unexpected disappointment. During the inspection, pay attention to the clock’s condition, checking for signs of wear, damage, or repairs. Examine the clock’s movement, and listen for any unusual sounds. Assess the quality of the materials and craftsmanship, ensuring they align with the stated age and value of the clock. Confirm the presence of any original parts, as replacement parts (hands, dial face, pendulum bob, etc.) can affect its authenticity and worth. Finally, if possible, request a demonstration of the clock in action to ensure it operates smoothly and accurately.

I hope these insights help you find the perfect clock for your special someone. I want to emphasize that I am not engaged in the business of selling clocks. Although I occasionally sell clocks locally, it’s solely to manage my personal collection and not as a commercial endeavor. Please be aware that I do not have clocks available for sale.

Selecting and Gifting an antique Mechanical Clock

Any time of year is a good time to offer an antique clock as a unique gift.

Mechanical clocks take us back to simpler times, free from mobile phones, the internet, and streaming TV. They evoke nostalgia for an era gone by.

Two American wall clocks

Determining whether to gift an antique clock can be a challenge. Allow me to provide you with some valuable tips.

Observation skills are key

The first step involves careful observation skills, assessing whether or not the recipient would appreciate an antique clock.

If the person has a general interest in history or has shown appreciation for antiques in the past, they might be more inclined to appreciate an antique clock. Take note of their home’s interior design and decor style. Antique clocks can complement various decor themes, such as vintage, traditional, or rustic. If their home features elements of these styles, it’s a positive sign.

Consider whether the person has a sentimental attachment to heirlooms or family keepsakes. Antique clocks often have a rich history and can become cherished heirlooms themselves. If the recipient is known to collect items, especially vintage or historical items, they may be more likely to appreciate an antique clock as an addition to their collection.

Antique clocks often exhibit intricate craftsmanship. If the recipient has an eye for fine craftsmanship or has expressed admiration for handmade or artisan items, they may appreciate the work that went into creating an antique clock.

Listen for any comments or discussions about nostalgia for earlier times. Antique clocks can evoke a sense of nostalgia for a simpler, pre-digital era.

If the person has owned or displayed clocks before, it’s a good sign that they might enjoy receiving another clock as a gift. Consider whether the person appreciates receiving unique and thoughtful gifts rather than typical, mass-produced items.

By paying attention to these clues and considering the recipient’s preferences and interests, you can make a more informed decision about whether an antique clock would be a well-received and meaningful gift.

Mechanical clocks appeal to those who either enjoy the sound and striking of a clock or appreciate it as part of their decor. These preferences will guide your gift selection.

Here are two examples of clocks I have gifted to family members:

Schatz W3 bracket clock

My son and his partner have a German Schatz W3 bracket clock in a custom case. It is in excellent mechanical condition but because it has a floating balance escapement it is very quiet when running. It serves as the centrepiece for their buffet and hutch.

Sessions Raven clock
Sessions Raven clock

My daughter has a Sessions Raven 8-day mantel clock that rests atop a bookcase in their family room. Although they choose not to run it, they nevertheless cherish it.

Choosing the right one

If you believe the recipient would appreciate a mechanical clock as a gift, the next step is choosing the right one. There’s a wide range of options available, catering to different budgets, from basic American kitchen clocks to rare 19th-century French Boulle mantel clocks, from those that are fairly economical to higher priced items.

Let’s narrow down the choices with a strategic approach.

French Boulle clock C.1860

The following two categories can help you make the right decision when buying a clock for your loved one, friend, or business associate.

Category 1 – Recipients Who Appreciate a Running Clock:

  • Avoid non-working clocks unless you or someone you know has clock repair skills.
  • Exercise caution when considering clocks labelled as “may require adjustment,” as they frequently conceal significant issues.
  • Investing in clocks that have undergone recent servicing and come with a warranty justifies the higher price tag.
  • Give serious thought to purchasing from established and reputable clock repair retailers. They offer added assurance of quality and reliability when acquiring a mechanical clock.
  • Opting for local purchases is a better choice compared to online auction platforms like eBay, as it helps avoid elevated shipping expenses and the potential risk of receiving a damaged clock.

Most mechanical clocks are 8-day running, requiring weekly winding. Some quality 15-day and 30-day clocks exist but are not as plentiful. Avoid 1-day clocks unless the recipient enjoys daily winding. Avoid 31-day clocks, as they are frequently manufactured in China, featuring subpar movements and inexpensive cases.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models
Daniel Dakota wall clock is made in China and should be avoided as a gift

Category 2 – Recipients Who desire a Mechanical Clock as Decoration:

  • For certain individuals, the aesthetic appeal and potential for sparking conversations outweigh the clock’s functional aspects.
  • Clocks that don’t function but have appealing cases are well-suited for this situation.
  • Examine the case’s condition, recent repair work, and authenticity carefully. A poorly executed case repair will be readily noticeable.
  • Steer clear of clocks that have had their original mechanical movements replaced with quartz mechanisms. If the recipient ever decides to sell it in the future, retaining the original movement will enhance its value.
  • Removing dirt and grime from a soiled clock case can greatly enhance its visual appeal while preserving its original patina.

Types and styles of clocks to consider

  1. Grandfather Clocks (Longcase or tallcase Clocks): These tall, freestanding clocks are typically over 6 feet in height and have a pendulum mechanism enclosed in a wooden case. They are known for their elegance and often feature intricate detailing. These are large clocks that take up floor space which is an important consideration.
  2. Mantel Clocks: Designed to sit on a mantelpiece or shelf, mantel clocks are often smaller and more decorative. They can come in a wide range of styles, from ornate Rococo to sleek Art Deco designs.
  3. Shelf clocks: Designed to sit on a mantelpiece or shelf. Examples are steeple clocks, ogee clocks, kitchen clocks and cottage clocks.
  4. Wall Clocks: Wall clocks are hung on the wall and come in various shapes and sizes. Examples include the Vienna regulator clock, schoolhouse clock, and banjo clock.
  5. Bracket Clocks: These are small, bracket-mounted clocks typically found on shelves or brackets. They often have a carrying handle and are known for their portability.
  6. Carriage Clocks: Originally designed for travellers, carriage clocks are small, portable clocks with a handle. They often feature an enamel dial and a hinged protective case.
  7. French Clocks: French clock-making is renowned for its craftsmanship and artistic design. Styles include Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI, each reflecting the aesthetics of its respective period.
  8. Vienna Regulator Clocks: These wall clocks originated in Vienna, Austria, and are characterized by their long and narrow wooden cases, typically with a pendulum visible through a glass door.
  9. Art Deco Clocks: Popular during the 1920s and 1930s, Art Deco clocks feature geometric shapes, bold colours, and sleek lines. They represent the Art Deco design movement’s distinctive style.
  10. Art Nouveau Clocks: Art Nouveau clocks emphasize organic, flowing forms inspired by nature, often featuring intricate metalwork and curvilinear designs.
  11. Cuckoo Clocks: Originating from the Black Forest region in Germany, cuckoo clocks are known for their distinctive cuckoo bird call. They often have wooden carvings and a pendulum.
  12. Skeleton Clocks: These clocks have an exposed mechanism with minimal casing, showcasing the intricate gears and escapement. They are prized for their transparency and craftsmanship.
  13. Marine Chronometers: Precision timekeeping instruments used for navigation at sea, marine chronometers are often housed in a wooden box and have a gimbal system to maintain accuracy on a moving ship.
  14. Calendar Clocks: These clocks display the date, often with additional complications such as moon phases or day-of-the-week indicators.

A mechanical clock makes for a truly special gift, one that has the potential to evolve into a beloved heirloom over time. Whether it continues to keep perfect time or finds its place as a decorative piece, the sentiment behind such a gift is sure to be appreciated by the recipient so long as you assess whether the recipient would appreciate such a gift.

A clock not only signifies the passage of time and makes it a meaningful present for any occasion. Its intricate craftsmanship makes it a symbol of both utility and beauty.

So, when you choose to gift a mechanical clock, you’re not only giving a functional timepiece but also a lasting memory that can be appreciated for years to come.

The ubiquitous type 89 movement by Seth Thomas

The Seth Thomas Clock Company is a well-known American clock manufacturer with a long history dating back to the early 19th century. The Type 89 movement is one of the many clock movements produced by Seth Thomas over the years. This type was made between 1900 and 1938.

This is a first look at the movement of a Seth Thomas time and strike mantel clock with a type 89 movement. Since there is no year stamp on the clock movement I am surmising that this clock was manufactured in the mid to late 1930s judging from its design and construction.

Discovered at a thrift shop in Renfrew, Ontario, the clock was not functioning initially.

Generally speaking, a clock movement faces issues with low power output caused by friction resulting from wear over time. The primary issue with aging clocks is their gradual deterioration due to extended periods of operation. Common culprits are dirt accumulation, insufficient lubrication, and lack of proper adjustments, although these are unlikely to be the reasons for the malfunction.

Interestingly, a dirty movement often continues to function even without lubrication if it’s in decent condition. There is no doubt that this movement requires bushing work to address accelerated wear, yet regrettably, I do not currently have access to the necessary bushing tools for the task as I am on holiday.

Despite the accumulation of grime, and potential wear-related concerns, I opted to put the movement into action, primarily with the goal of uncovering underlying issues. Doing this required removing the hour and minute hands, releasing 4 screws holding the movement to the front of the case, removing the strike block, and taking the movement out of its case.

Once on the work bench an initial inspection of the movement did not reveal any obvious issues with either the time or the strike side, so, it was safe to proceed further. When found both mainsprings on this time and strike movement were wound tight and appeared ceased likely as a result of the build-up of glue-like dirt between the coils of the mainsprings.

I have found that in some cases gently unwinding the coils of mainsprings with a let-down set can often relieve enough tension to provide a clock with the necessary energy to start running but there was one more step in the process.

A letdown set is required in order to release the mainsprings

Although there was a noticeable amount of dirt around the pivots, I applied oil to each one. However, it’s important to be cautious about mixing new and old oil, as their interaction can result in the formation of a harmful abrasive paste, which can speed up wear on both the pivots and the bushing holes.

Thus, while oiling a dirty movement is a temporary solution, it’s not a replacement for proper disassembly, thorough cleaning, and addressing wear issues.

As a result of releasing the mainspring, oiling the pivots, and putting the movement in beat, it now runs strongly. However, there is something amiss with the strike side and further investigation is required. Despite this, I am not anticipating major issues with this movement.

The next step is disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and testing. Should it require bushing work, that step will have to wait a while longer.

I have every confidence that this movement will run very well once serviced.

Tick Talk Tuesday #48 – What to do with my husband’s old clocks

Tick Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is dedicated to addressing readers’ letters and comments related to clock issues, challenges, and recommendations for specific clocks. In cases where the comments and questions are particularly challenging, I seek advice from my fellow clock enthusiasts to provide the most accurate and helpful response.

JZ writes

I ran across your website trying to find info on some old clocks. My husband passed away in February and left me several. I have no desire to keep them but also have No knowledge of what to do with them.

I’m sending you pics of a few. I realize it’s difficult from pics to provide much but anything is more than I have at the moment.

U/K parlour clock

My reply

I am sorry for your loss. I’ll begin by saying that I have no interest in any of the clocks.

With respect to the clocks left behind by your husband, there are a few options you might consider.

American time and strike clock with a French look

First, consider selling the clocks. If you have no desire to keep them you might be able to sell them to a collector as a lot or individually. You can also locate a reputable auction house or sell them online through websites like eBay or Etsy. Selling them locally through Facebook Marketplace avoids the hassle of packaging and shipping a clock to its new owner.

Donating the clocks to a local museum or historical society is another option. The clocks can be appreciated by those who have a passion for clocks.

Having the clocks appraised is another avenue to pursue but you run the risk of paying more for the expert opinion than the clocks are worth.

Antique items can certainly be worth a lot of money, but it is important to note that just because something is old or antique does not automatically make it valuable.

Electric clock from the 1940s

I am not a clock valuation expert and cannot physically inspect their construction, repair status, and overall condition and any estimate I offer from information provided to me by email regarding the clock’s value would be approximate.

Likely a Hermle Westminster chiming clock

If any of the clocks have a distinct history (provenance) or the maker is highly regarded, its value will be significantly higher but you have not provided enough information to suggest that.

The value of an antique clock depends on various factors such as rarity, condition, historical significance, the reputation of the maker, and finally market demand. Unfortunately, the market for antique clocks is not as strong as it once was though certain rare or highly sought-after antique clocks can still hold significant value in the market.

Judging from the photos alone I do not believe that any one of these clocks is worth more than $200, and some significantly less.

Hope this helps in your decision-making.

Unboxing the Junghans Mantel Clock: An anticipated Arrival

Junghans, a name that is well-known to clock collectors and repairers, is not the company it once was. In recent years, the company has established itself as a prominent manufacturer of high-quality wristwatches.

However, During the early to mid-20th century the German company had established itself as a prolific producer of wall, mantel, and tall case clocks. Collectors and enthusiasts highly value the company’s clocks for their superior quality, solid construction, and classic designs that have withstood the test of time.

Although I wasn’t actively seeking out a new Junghans clock to add to my collection, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to acquire this one at an attractive price. It now joins my collection of clocks, which includes two other Junghans clocks.

Junghans Corner feet finished
Junghans Sydney time and strike bracket clock C. 1911

One is a bracket clock from 1911 (code stamped B11), and the other is an older wall clock from the turn of the 20th century. Both of these clocks are among the 21 clocks in my home that are run and maintained on a daily basis.

Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock C. 1899

As expected, the clock arrived safely after I chose to have it shipped to me instead of personally picking it up from the auction house, which is located two hours away from my home. I had confidence in the auction house’s ability to package the clock securely for safe shipping, as I have dealt with them in the past and they have always been careful with packaging.

Auction house photo

Having received the clock, I can confirm that it is exactly what I expected it to be, with no surprises or unexpected issues. Checking its functionality, I wound both sides and it runs and strikes as it should.

Backplate and coil gong

A similar movement in my Sydney bracket clock is stamped with a code (B11) indicating its production year, which is two years before this one. The gong block in both clocks is also identical in appearance.

However, I will only be able to confirm if there are any other internal differences between the two clocks when I dismantle the movement for cleaning.

Dial

Is the blemish just above the number five a scuff mark or a permanent abrasion, or is it merely a buildup of dirt that can be cleaned off?

Crackling or alligoration of the finish

The case of the clock appears dull and neglected, and I am uncertain as to the appropriate method for refinishing at this point, nevertheless, it is evident that the case’s appearance would be significantly improved with some care and attention.

Pendulum bob and key

A correction from a previous article

After believing that the pendulum attached to the clock was not appropriate for the movement, I replaced it with what I believed was the correct one. However, I discovered that the replacement pendulum did not reach down to the beveled glass port and the rod hook was opposite in orientation to the one that came with the clock.

Despite functioning well and keeping accurate time, it did not look suitable. After I posted an article on first impressions, sight unseen, A reader pointed out that they have the exact pendulum bob for their Junghans roundtop clock, which has now led me to reconsider my previous assumption that the original pendulum was not the correct one. Thank you, dear reader!

Now that I have confirmed that the clock is functioning correctly, it is time to proceed with the disassembly and cleaning process, which is evidently long overdue.

Junghans Mantel Clock: Initial Impressions Sight unseen

As a manufacturer today Junghans is not the same company that made mechanical clocks many years ago. In response to the demands and advancements in technology in today’s world, the company has undergone a transformation in its products. In recent years, the company has established itself as a prominent manufacturer of high-quality wristwatches.

B13 stamped on the movement plate indicates that it was made in the last half of 1913

With a rich heritage in mechanical clockmaking, the company had established itself as a prolific producer of wall, mantel, and tall case clocks. Collectors and enthusiasts highly value the company’s clocks for their superior quality, craftsmanship, and classic designs that have withstood the test of time.

While I am not specifically searching for Junghans clocks, I have two other Junghans clocks in my collection. One is a bracket clock from 1911, and the other is an older wall clock from the turn of the 20th century.

As of this writing, my most recent acquisition is not yet part of my Junghans clock collection but here is what I know so far.

Based on the pictures obtained from the recent online auction where it was purchased, this unremarkable roundtop time and strike clock from 1913 seems to be in fair condition.

The 1915 Junghans catalog identifies the clock as the Hunsruck, named after a mountain range in Germany, and provides its specifications as 28.5 cm in height with a mahogany or oak case construction, a 14-day run time, and a silvered dial.

Cambered faceted front

It is unclear from the auction photos whether the clock is made of mahogany or not, but judging from the photos its reddish tone suggests it is mahogany. Occasionally, the feet may be replaced with a different type but it is highly probable that they are the original brass ball feet.

One notable feature is the faceted glass port below the clock face, which allows the pendulum bob to be seen in motion.

The photo above shows an example of what would have been the original pendulum with a weight of 150g or 5.2 oz.

The current pendulum is a replacement for the original unit, which was likely lost or misplaced. However, it is not a suitable match as it lacks the necessary weight and aesthetic appeal of the original brass pendulum.

The clock’s movement, which rests on a movement support piece, is a timeless time-and-strike design that was a hallmark feature of numerous Junghans mantel clocks during that era. The Junghans trademark is boldly showcased on the gong block.

The pendulum bob is not correct

When the clock was won at auction the delivery was arranged and I should have it in the next few days. The price? 55CDN plus buyers’ premium, taxes, and shipping.

It is assumed that the clock is operational, but its actual condition cannot be determined until it arrives.

Tick Talk Tuesday #42 Sessions Westminster C questions

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

CC writes:

Hi Ron, are you still answering questions about antique clocks? I came across this (Sessions Westminster A mantel clock) at a garage sale last weekend. I need to get a replacement key, and I need to know if it is worth having it cleaned and does it need to be repaired. I think it’s really beautiful and I would love to hear how it strikes and if it has a chime. I have attached some photos, hopefully, they can help. Thank you for your time I really enjoyed reading your articles online.  Sincerely, Carla. Ps, yes I have the weight I only removed it because I’ve been moving it around to clean it up and polish the wood but I have not touched the mechanisms.

Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931
Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931

My reply:

I had some difficulty downloading all the images but I saw enough to tell you that what you have is a Sessions Westminster C made in the early 1930s. Chiming clocks usually have three winding points but although yours has only two winding points it is a chiming clock since one mainspring controls the striking and chiming functions of your clock while the other operates the time train. It would take a #6 key.

Because of the complexity of the movement and you may find that some repairers will not accept this clock for repair. Be prepared to pay more than this clock is worth for a repair. You also may have a part or two missing on the pin drum which might be problematic.

When working correctly they are a nice sounding clock.

Sessions Westminster chime drum
Sessions Westminster chime drum on writer’s clock

CC replies:

Hey Ron I cannot tell you how excited I am to know that this clock is working thanks to you! I ordered the size 6 key and wound it up and it just took off. My next question is how do I or what do I need to get the chime to work there is another hole a small one at the very bottom of the face and I don’t know how to turn it off or on. Any suggestions.? I hope my video comes through… The scratchy sound in the background is my pug sorry about that but this SOB is ticking and I love it! 

My reply:

Clocks such as yours came with double-ended keys. One end for winding the arbors and the other for the speed regulator, at 12 o’clock and for silencing the chimes. The “silence” may be in the off position and to turn it on one would require the small end of the double-ended key.

The other more serious issue is that the chimes/strike require servicing which is not fun because these clocks are a challenge to work on.

Sessions clock face

CC replies:

Thank you, Ron. I don’t think I’m gonna be able to have it repaired I couldn’t afford it this time. And it didn’t take very long maybe a couple days. Oh well, at least it’s pretty. I know you don’t sell or hook people up with sellers but if you know anyone who might be interested in buying it… Or where I might be able to sell it, other than eBay let me know, please. If not that’s OK and thank you for your time and expertise. Sincerely CC.

Refreshing an Ingraham “octagon top” 30-hour shelf clock – keep or sell?

This 30-hour shelf clock (hour strike) was manufactured by American clock-maker E. Ingraham and Co. in the 1870s. There are various iterations of the name over the maker’s history but this was the one the company used from 1861 to 1880.

The clock was bought at auction in mid-March 2022 along with 3 other clocks. In this post, I will take the reader through the process of refreshing the case.

Auction photo

This is an excellent example of a tired case that needs attention. When I look at a clock case such as this I assume the movement is well worn but a pleasant surprise awaited.

The movement is in surprisingly good condition as a result of regular (somewhat) servicing over the years. It has been in the shop at least three times, 1879, 1916, and 1994 according to dates found on the back of the case and perhaps more occasions that are not recorded.

Analysis of the case and plan of action

The gold banding on the front face of the “octagon top” and the inside frame of the access door has some losses and the goal is to hide the nicks with gold artist’s paint matched to the trim. First of all, it is not a true octagon but half of one, but that is how these clocks are described.

The overall finish is in fair condition. Numerous cosmetic issues such as scratches and nicks here and there over the rosewood case are evident, but a good cleaning with soap and water followed by a fresh coat of shellac should fill in the scratches and improve things dramatically.

Auction photo showing nicks and scratches

The dial shows considerable wear after years of daily use and this is a situation where a replacement paper dial might be considered but I am always hesitant because replacement dials take a certain something away from and antique clock.

However, I am going to see what I can do by attempting to bring the numbers back with black acrylic paint while retaining some of the patina.

The moon hands look correct for the period of the clock.

As a collector who has seen a good number of these styles of clocks, I first thought the access door glass was a replacement since many clocks from the early to late 19th century had reverse painted tablets.

Because of the decorative pendulum and the bright brass bell both meant to be seen, the stylized panel that serves as the base for the dial, the total absence of any paint remnants, the glass panel with its waviness and various imperfections plus the putty-like material that is used to mount the glass to the door, the glass appears to be original to the case. A pleasant surprise!

It is always a bit of a disappointment when something is lost or changed on an antique clock especially one that is close to 150 years old and when replacement parts are difficult to source.

No doubt some of the scratches on the case, dents, etc. (not all, of course) are the result of rough handling either when transporting the item to the auction house or during its stay.

Addressing issues with the case

The very first step is a good cleaning. Cleaning a clock will generally result in the removal of some of its protective finish but it is inevitable given that it has been on the clock a long time.

Auction photo

For old American clocks I generally use traditional shellac made by combining shellac lacquer with shellac flakes. Amber Shellac adds a certain hue to the case and the cut is light enough that it dries to the touch in less than a minute which is my preference.

When there are large flat surfaces I will use a “french polish” but for this project, a broad artist’s brush is best. I apply the shellac in long strokes completing each section at a time.

The decorative black wood panel that serves as the dial mount is also shellacked allowing for small scratches to fill in very nicely.

The original paper dial is well worn and presents significant challenges as all the numbers on the dial are either partially worn off or completely erased. This was a well-used clock!

Top and bottom lines of the numerals are filled in

Using an artist’s fine-tipped brush, black multi-surface acrylic paint, and a steady hand I filled in as much as I could. The numbers around the winding arbours were the worst because I had little to work with and they were the most difficult to reproduce.

Once all the Roman numerals were completed and thoroughly dry, I used a Sharpie fine-tip “artist’s permanent marker” and a straight edge to clean up the lines. I decided not to touch up the chapter ring other than the 5-minute markers. I am not entirely happy with the number 4 on the dial but that’s as far I am going.

Closer view of the dial

As for the gold trim on the face, I did not want to mess with the patina, nor did I wish to cover the gold which would have completely taken away from the antique look. I mixed acrylic multi-surface gold paint and a very small dab of black paint for an “aged” effect and used a fine-tipped artist’s brush to carefully dab the bare areas.

Finally, the brass bezel and inner ring were given a polishing.

The clock is complete

The clock has been transformed. The dial has been rejuvenated, the movement serviced and reinstalled, the bell gong attached, the case given its many touch-ups, and the decorative pendulum is attached. Now to regulate the clock.

In the final analysis, I believe that I have struck the balance every collector and restorer seeks and that is maintaining the original patina of the clock while not taking away its antique look. It is 145 year old antique that has seen good use over the years but applying modern techniques that are minimally invasive have brought it back to life.

I have one more decision to make. I acquired this and three other clocks to sell in order to offset the cost of new equipment but now that I have seen the final result I wonder!

A Sessions clock is on the bench 5 years later – what needs to be done?

A mechanical clock is a machine and all machines require periodic maintenance. Five years might be considered a long time since the movement on a Sessions time and strike mantel clock was first worked on when 2-3 years is the norm between service intervals but let’s agree that it has not been an easy time these past two years and priorities have shifted.

I have not opened this clock up since 2016 and I wonder if any surprises await me. I worked on this clock in 2016, so, it is a judgment on my own workmanship.

Sessions Beveled #2

It was purchased locally from a person who knew absolutely nothing about clocks, making a few bucks on whatever he could get his hands on. He could not tell me one darn thing about it only that it was not working. The case was in rough shape and it was less than $40, so, I bought it.

Although I had worked on several clocks prior to this one, it was an important part of my journey in clock repair because I was now able to put my newly acquired Bergeon bushing machine to the test.

Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine purchased in 2016

Back then I installed 10 bushings, replaced the pendulum bob and suspension spring, oiled the movement, reinstalled it, and refreshed the case. Not the best timekeeper in the world but that is the nature of spring-driven American clocks of that era (the 1920s).

Disassembly and Inspection

I always approach the inspection and servicing of a clock that I have serviced in the past in much the same way I would service a clock that has just come into my collection. The steps are identical; inspect, restrain mainsprings, clean all parts, peg out bushing holes, polish pivots, address wear issues, assemble, oil and test. This clock is no different.

Backplate off and showing the helper springs

First, remove the hour and minute hands. Next, put the clock on its face and remove the 4 screws that hold the movement in place. Pull the movement out of the case, place the case aside, and let the mainsprings down into the mainspring retention clamps.

Mainsprings are removed

Never attempt to take apart a spring-driven movement without first restraining the mainsprings. This is a very important first step in clock repair and it is obvious for safety reasons.

Mainspring contained in a clamp
Mainspring contained in a retention clamp

During the servicing, as I usually do, I will check all pivots and bushings but most particularly the mainspring clicks which is a well-documented weakness in Sessions movements.

As I began taking the movement apart I noticed a badly kinked suspension spring which will have to be replaced. This usually occurs when a clock is moved without removing the pendulum bob. We have had some home renovations this past two years and the clock has been moved about the house. My fault, actually.

I generally take many photos during servicing but there is no requirement this time since I have kept the photos I took from 2016. However, if anything is noteworthy at this juncture, I will record it.

One item I did not own five years ago was a high-quality ultrasonic cleaning machine. The movement is dirtier than I expected and there is blackish oil around some (not all) of the pivots. I was probably a little overzealous with oiling and perhaps not as careful as I should have been polishing the pivots. It definitely requires a good cleaning and my American-made L&R Quantrex 140 with internal heater will be put to good use.

Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R

I have been working with so many German movements lately I can’t remember the last time I worked on an American one, let alone a Sessions clock. It has been months, so, here we go!

I pulled the plates apart and inspected the movement for wear. There is more blackened oil up the train (mentioned above) than I was expecting which tells me that if not addressed now it will lead to accelerated wear of the pivots and bushing holes and eventual stoppage of the clock. There is the tiniest bit of wear on the 4th wheel back-plate but not enough to justify replacing at this time.

The second wheels, front, and back, which were not attended to then, may now need attention. The good news is that all the replacement bushings from 2016 remain in very good condition.

It looks like at least one new bushing on the strike side wheel, not surprising since it bears the brunt of mainspring power. While there is some wear on the other three I can live with it but the fourth on the strike side back-plate is somewhat oval-shaped as you can see in this photo.

Worn pivot hole on the strike side

Though not as bad as others I’ve seen in American clocks that are well worn, there is enough play in this wheel to justify a new bushing.

The New bushing

The click and rivet design are a special problem on Sessions clocks, and I am happy to see that both clicks are in good condition after 5 years. It might be unfair to criticize parts that are nearly 100 years old. The photo shows what a worn click would look like.

Worn click on another Sessions movement

After the parts are cleaned in the ultrasonic and thoroughly dried, the bushing holes are pegged and the pivots polished. Now for the new bushing.

The pivot measured 1.62mm and I chose one with an inside diameter of 1.60mm. After broaching (cutting followed by a smoothing broach) it was a perfect fit.

Now for reassembly. The strike side levers with helper springs under tension can often be a challenge to stay in place during reassembly but the key is patience. Oiling and testing are next.

What did the movement look like after 5 1/2 years? The blackish oil was a little concerning but overall the movement is in great shape. It is certainly cleaner and shinier than before.

And it runs like a charm.

Gilbert mantel clock movement servicing

Let me say that I am not a huge fan of clocks with steel plates. Although most have brass bushing inserts punched into the steel, I am always fearful that there is not enough brass in the insert to prevent cutting into the steel plate and ruining a cutter. But in this case, my worries were unfounded and this clock presented no such headaches.

The mahogany tinted case shows well

The movement is stamped 17 which was Gilbert’s way of identifying the year the movement was made, which in this case is 1917. The case design is somewhat reminiscent of clocks made in the early 1920s but Gilbert no doubt made a run of these movements and put them into various clocks some years after the Great War.

Not a lot of dirt and grime

It is a time and strike with a passing strike on a bell on the half-hour.

I was not really looking for a mantel clock but I saw it online during the summer of 2021 and I thought it would be a good summer cottage project to keep me busy. I didn’t have the right tools for bushing work so I cleaned the case, replaced a broken hour hand, inspected it for wear, oiled it, and ran it through the summer.

It certainly needed cleaning but a month of running would do no appreciable harm. It was reliable and it kept reasonably good time, or as reasonable as one could expect of American clocks of this period.

Plenty of levers and helper springs

It looks like one of those clocks that had a few years of running, was disassembled and cleaned at least once but spent most of its life sitting prettily on a shelf.

There are a number of scratch marks on the movement which tells me that it has been worked on before. No bushing work was done but I see punch marks around the escape wheel bushing rear plate and that’s about it.

Pivots and lantern pinions are all in great shape

There is minimal wear; the lantern pinions are in very good shape as are all the pivots. As for bushing work, based on my initial assessment at least 4 bushings are required; second wheel strike-side backplate; third wheel time-side backplate; second, third, and fourth wheel strike-side rear plate. But, the wear is consistent with a clock that has reasonably good care during its life. There was plenty of brass material for the inserts and bushing went easily.

The movement has more than its fair share of helper springs, two in the upper part of the movement for the striking levers and two in the bottom, one for the half-hour strike on a bell and one for the hour strike. Getting all these helper springs to wrap around their respective posts is frustrating but doable although it is probably helpful attaching the lower springs while assembling the movement rather than wrestle with the springs after the movement is put together.

I have worked on a few Gilbert time and strike movements over the years and this one was no different. It is midway through the second 8-day test cycle and running well.

Other than some new bushings and a replacement hour hand, that is all there is to it.

I like this clock. It has simple lines, looks good and I think I will keep it.

Servicing a Seth Thomas 8-day movement

A marriage of Waterbury and Seth Thomas

I was attracted to the style of this clock but disappointed when I learned that it was a marriage of a Waterbury case with a Seth Thomas movement. Briefly, a marriage is when parts from two different makers come together.

Buying a clock from a flea market, antique mall, a shop or what have you is always a gamble. On this particular clock there is no trademark or name on the dial or a label in the back of the case that told me who the maker was. I made an assumption and it was an impulse buy.

Glass and bezel are from a later clock

While at the antique store I opened the back of the case to confirm that the clock had a movement and it was complete with pendulum bob and coiled gong and to me everything appeared correct until I brought it home. My first thought was an Ansonia movement when I looked at it under the dim light of the store.

Seth Thomas and other makers made similar cabinet style cases but this is the Wren by the Waterbury Clock Company. Being a marriage, the clock is worth much less to those particular about such matters. No matter, it looks attractive.

I can imagine a past owner’s conversation with the repair guy, I don’t care what you do, just make it work! And the repair guy responds by removing the very worn Waterbury movement and replacing it with a Seth Thomas. Easy peasy!

One of the current seller’s stickers on the case said it was a non-working clock but with minor adjustments, such as moving the pallets closer to the escape wheel and releasing the time-side mainspring, I had it running in no time. There is not much wrong with the movement and a good cleaning plus a bushing or two should put things right.

So, what did I buy?

As I said, I like the case and it has a decent movement but when a clock is a marriage one can expect some questionable repairs and interesting changes as one takes things apart.

I am not absolutely certain the dial pan came with the case or was added later but the glass and bezel are certainly from a mid-century mantel clock. It is so ugly it will be tossed into the spare parts drawer. I will keep the dial pan but a piecrust bezel with flat glass is more appropriate for the period.

Piecrust dial on a 6-column mantel clock
Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement

I removed the dial and discovered a number of extra screw holes here and there, varying lengths of screws, some screw holes filled with pieces of wood, even a couple of Robertson screws (not invented until after the First War) and so on. Obviously the replacement movement required new holes and why not drill a few extra holes for good measure!

The hole on the dial just above the 12 is larger than it should be. It was either enlarged to accommodate the regulating arbour or it’s a new hole altogether.

On a positive note both the case and the movement are from a similar period.

Disassembling the movement

But this post is about servicing the movement.

I am impressed with the engineering of this Seth Thomas movement. It is robust and well-designed though it has an interesting, overly complicated, speed regulating feature.

From my research I found that the hip style movement is the type 44 which was used for a 12 year period beginning in 1890. In 1903 it was presumably replaced with the type 89 movement, simpler to manufacture, fewer parts and more reliable, and appeared in many thousands of ST mantel clocks afterwards. It has a sickle shaped brass piece between the plates so that the clock can be turned backwards repeatedly at the hour to sync the strike with the hands. It is technically called a set-back counter weight.

Brass piece indicated by arrow
Regulating arbour with worm gear on one end

There were variations of this movement, front winding movements as opposed to rear winding, with and without the worm gear speed regulator and some with stop works. This movement does not have Geneva stops.

It took me more time than usual to pry open the plates because I was slowed down by the intricacy of regulating mechanism. Part of the mechanism consists of a long arbour that passes from the front plate to the back plate. At one end is a worm gear and on the other is the regulating end. It is secured to the outside of the front plate by means of a spring with a pin through the arbour. To release the arbour, the pin must be pulled and the spring releases.

Well, actually the spring flew across the room. No problem, I’m used to crawling on the floor looking for clock parts.

I have worked on a lot of American time and strike movements but this type of regulating mechanism is a first for me. In fact, the set-back counter weight is also a first for me.

Analysis of the movement

The movement has had 12 bushings installed, 5 on the front plate and 7 on the back. The work is well done but I don’t like the arrows scratched into the plate indicating where each bushing would be installed. I use a Sharpie pen and after I have completed the bushing work I wipe the marks off with alcohol. There is no need to mar the plates.

Arrow indicating scratch mark below bushing

After looking over the movement carefully I can see there is enough wear in some bushings that they must be replaced, both second wheels, front plate, the governor, both front and back and the escape wheel bridge bushing which for some reason has punch marks around it, the only unsightly repair.

Escape wheel and bridge

The mainsprings look to be in good shape and still bears the original ST trademarks. No worn gear teeth and the pivots, plus the lantern pinions are all in great shape.

All in all, not bad for a movement that was last serviced quite a number of years ago.

Strike side of ST movement

The pivots were polished and next is the bushing work. Two were interesting to say the least.

The count count wheel and the strike pin wheel are side by side. A bushing was required for the pin wheel but I could not access it from inside the plate. This is one of those few times when drilling from the outside is the only way however, I was able to push the bushing home from the inside plate. It is one of those situation where you have to stand back, analysis the problem and consider a strategy. It worked.

The second was the escape wheel bridge. To stabilize the bridge a 5-step block jig comes in handy. Otherwise, it is very difficult to keep the bridge steady and drill a straight hole.

Ingraham Grecian
% level job block used for an escape wheel bridge

The drilling went fine until the last 3.47 mm cutter. When I began to drill out the hole the old bushing came out. I knew right away that the new bushing would not have a tight fit. Evidently a past repairer had the same problem.

staking set
staking set

The block from a staking set is a useful tool. With it I was able to lay the plate down on it and punch the bushing from the inside to stabilize it.

Once together everything fell into place or so I thought. Unfortunately, I will have to take it apart again because I forgot the regulating worm gear which can only be installed with the plates separated. The movement will run perfectly fine without it, but it is part of the clock.

In the meantime the movement is running well.

HAC/HAU movement servicing

HAC movement
The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century

Bought on an online estate auction site earlier this year, servicing the movement is the subject of this post. Once the movement is serviced, the next step is to address dirt and grime on the case and see what I can do to improve the look of the dial although I am not very hopeful that I can do much to improve it.

For those unfamiliar with the HAC acronym, it stands for Hamburg American Clock Company, a well known German company acquired by Junghans in the late 1920s. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU. Kind of a strange name for a German clock company but that is how the original investors wanted it named.

I have a number of German clocks including familiar makers such as Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.

HAC clock
HAC clock circa 1900-1910

Assessment of the movement

It is a typical 14-day German time and count-wheel strike circa 1900 to 1910. It is a robust and almost industrial looking movement and perhaps made early in this series of movements. It could be the type #21 although I can find nothing to confirm it.

The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century. This movement has slightly thicker plates, no cutouts, and no extraneous holes and looks sturdy.

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement, dirty and very tarnished

It has been worked on in the past, the strike side mainspring having been replaced at some point in the clock’s life. The time side has the HAC cross arrows stamped on the mainspring and appears to be original.

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement, no cutouts

It doesn’t look as though there were issues at the time when the mainspring was replaced, no punch marks around the pivot holes or new bushings, for example, but there are wear issues now and that is to be expected in a 100+ year old clock movement.

In total the movement required 9 bushings, 6 on the strike side and 3 on the time side; 4 on the backplate, and 5 on the front plate. A couple of pivot holes are questionable and exhibit some wear and out of an abundance of caution I bushed them and why not while I have the movement apart. As expected there is more wear on the lower parts of the trains.

The bushing work went as expected. Some of the pivots are quite small and required 2.50mm OD bushings which I don’t often use but have plenty of them in my supply.

Ultrasonic cleaning did not do much to brighten up the brass plates, but to me aesthetics is unimportant. My goal, as always, is simply to have a properly serviced movement that runs well.

Assembly and testing

The movement was assembled and oiled. Both the strike and the time side are running well. There were no particular problems setting up the strike side other than a couple of attempts setting up warning before I got it right.

HAC movement
HAC movement on the test stand

It continued to run well during the next couple of weeks.

It is a 14-day movement but I find with these German movements that winding them once per week ensures more accurate timekeeping.

Tick Talk Tuesday #30 – a Forestville clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

JS writes;

“I found your blog online. I wasn’t sure if you were able to help. But I’m trying to find some information on a mantle clock I purchased.

Blackforest clock Co.
Blackforest Clock Co.

It is made by Black Forest Clock Company, which I know is Canadian. Just curious if you recognized the clock and a possible year.

My reply;

“Hi and thanks for your email, Joe. The company was first called the Blackforest Clock Company when formed in 1928 and changed its name to the Forestville Clock Co. In 1941. The same company just a change in the name. It was based in Toronto through its life right up to the late 1970s. If it is a Blackforest clock it was made prior to 1941. Is it a pendulum clock or does it have a floating balance escapement? If you are not sure, send me a photo of the movement.”

Which JS promptly sent:

Blackforest Clock Co.
Blackforest Clock Co.

Just purchased it at an auction. I look forward to picking it up and putting it on the mantle. Be safe and well and thank you again.

My reply:

“Looks like a nice pendulum clock.”

Auction find – E. Ingraham & Co. Grecian shelf clock

Ingraham Grecian clock

I was the successful online bidder for an E. Ingraham Grecian time and strike shelf clock in early January 2021. My wife and I had to travel 3 hours, from one part of Nova Scotia to another, to pick the clock up but since we were taking a small staycation in the nearby area the antique shop was on our way.

It is a very interesting design and I researched not only this clock but the period that influenced its design.

Let’s travel back in time to Duncan Phyfe, a prominent American furniture designer (1768-1854). His interpretation of fashionable European trends made him a major influence in the Neoclassical movement in the United States impacting an entire generation of cabinet-makers. The era of Greek furniture design quickly came to the clock world in the form of “Grecian” clocks made by a number of clock manufacturers including Joseph Ives, E. N. Welch, Seth Thomas, and Ingraham.

This is the E. Ingraham & Co.’s interpretation of the Grecian clock, called appropriately enough, the “Grecian”.

Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo
Ingraham Grecian, auction photo (with permission Harris & Sons)

The design is a classical influence and it is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today. It has a molded Rosewood bezel with carved volutes below the dial frame. The dial frame and bezel are one section that makes up the hinged front access door. I have seen walnut-cased versions and mosaic maple and walnut as well. The mosaic versions are probably the most desirable.

Elias Ingraham was a case designer and no doubt had a hand not only in the design but the choice of woods used for case construction.

Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo
Ingraham Grecian auction photo (with permission Harris & Sons)

It has a paint-on-zinc dial, moon-shaped hands, and Roman chapters. The Grecian model was available as a 30-hour spring-driven, time and strike, 30-hour time and strike with alarm, 8-day time and strike, and 8-day time and strike with alarm. This one is the 8-day time and hour-strike alarm version. All models strike on a cast bell made of iron, or in this case, brass. Features such as exotic/mixed woods, alarm, and 8-day function would have been an extra charge at the time. The clocks were made between the years 1868 and 1883 with an 1880 catalog price of $5.25 for the 30-hour clock with alarm.

Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo
Ingraham Grecian auction photo (with permission Harris & Sons)

It has a green triangular-shaped paper label inside the back panel of the case which is in fair condition. There are 3 patent dates on the label, September 30, 1862, March 31, 1868, and June 6th, 1871. The newest clocks of this model would have had October 8, 1878, and still newer, November 11, 1879 patent dates so, this clock was made after 1871 and before 1878. The fact that the clock can be dated within a 5 year period is a plus.

Ingraham Grecian alarm dial
Ingraham Grecian alarm dial auction photo (with permission Harris & Sons)

Once I receive the clock and look it over more carefully I will post my first impressions and the work that must be done to restore both the clock movement and the case to its former glory. Stay tuned.

Solar mantel clock servicing – just one hiccup, well, a couple actually

Hermle movement parts after cleaning

Solar mantel clock
Solar mantel clock

For today’s post, we are looking at a German time and strike mantel clock with a Hermle movement and sold in Canada under the Solar name. It has a 6″ dial and dark walnut case that would have been around $50 or $60 when new in the 1960s. At about 13” wide by 7” high by and 4” deep it is small by mantel clock standards and would fit just about anywhere in a home or office.

Solar clock
Solar clock, just a little taller than a beer can

It has a type 141 German movement from Hermle with a recoil escapement and 11cm pendulum (200.8 bpm). The half-hour strike on a bell is pretty sound for a mantel clock but is loud enough to be heard across the house. As a testament to its design and durability, this movement is still being produced by Hermle today.

Solar Hermle movement
Solar Hermle movement

This was not a running clock when I bought it but I thought a good cleaning was all it required. Judging from mars and scratches on the backplate of the movement it has been worked on in the past.

I took the movement out of its case to examine it more closely and I was relieved when I saw that the pivots were not plated, the bane of Hermle movements from the 1970s to the late 1980s. In those days Hermle used soft steel pivots for their movements and plated them for hardness. The plating has been known to peel off and this requires repivoting which is a time-consuming process. When there is too much pivot work to be done the movement is simply tossed out. This movement predates the plated pivot period.

I did not see any evidence of bushing work on the movement but one or both mainsprings were replaced as the barrels had numerous scratch marks on them. As is typical of clocks of this period the mainspring barrels can be removed without disassembling the movement. The winding arbours simply pull out once the rachet is removed. Mainsprings on some German clocks are a known weakness.

Hermle movement
Hermle movement, you can see the S on the strike barrel

The movement was in very good condition with minimal wear.

Hermle movement, front plate removed
Hermle movement, front plate removed

The movement was disassembled, parts cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner, the pivot holes pegged, and the pivots polished. The warning wheel is plastic and did not go into the ultrasonic machine, a cost-savings measure by Hermle no doubt on a part that has almost no load.

Hermle stop wheel
Hermle plastic stop wheel

I assembled the parts to check for wear and found that the movement required two bushings, the star wheel, backplate, and the lower drive wheel rear plate, both quite worn. All other pivot holes were within acceptable tolerances.

Installing two bushings

The starwheel bushing installation was simple enough. The center cannon wheel had to be removed so that the backplate bushing hole could be accessed. Bushing work went without a hitch.

Now for putting that centre wheel back on. An oval tension spring just below it must be tight enough but allow the arbour to move. Attempting to reinstall the brass washer was frustrating and as you can see I made some nasty marks trying to get it back into place (below photo). After several tries, I just could not get it tight enough.

Hermle movement, washer and tension spring
Hermle movement, washer, and tension spring

I attempted to stake the washer but that did not work. None of my stock of brass tubes had the correct inside diameter and I was reluctant to put a lot of work into making a friction washer with my mini-lathe.

Solar washer
Solar center wheel friction washer, not reusable

However, I discovered a simpler solution, a brass Bergeon bushing.

Hermle movement new washer
Hermle movement’s new friction washer is a brass bushing

The arbour is roughly 2.6mm and a bushing with an inside diameter of 2.5mm provided a good friction fit. The bushing is also large enough to cover the tension spring underneath. Perhaps not the intended purpose of a brass bushing but it works! In many other German clocks, there is a pin through the arbour and it can be easily taken off but not on this one.

Reassembly and testing

After test fitting all the parts it is off to the next stage, resembling the movement. When reassembling a rack and snail movement there a number of things to consider but in my view, the three most important steps are ensuring the warning wheel pin is in the roughly 12 o’clock position to permit a half-turn to set up the strike, that the strike paddle is between two star points and not resting on the point of star wheel (a strike train that starts up under load may stall) and that the gathering pallet pin is well clear of the rack teeth. On a typical rack and snail movement, all other adjustments are done outside the plates.

Then comes the testing phase which generally lasts a couple of weeks or more depending on what issues may arise.

In the meantime, I took the opportunity to clean the case and touch up some small chips on the decorator piece under the dial.

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