Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
Modern Mauthe wall clock circa 1970S
DK writes, “I just received this clock. I’m hoping you can help me identify it and maybe help me to fix it. I’d like to see if I can repair it if possible. Hope to hear from you.”
I write back, “Can you send a photo of your Mauthe clock with the door closed?”
An attractive wall clock by Mauthe
DK, “I seemed to have fixed it so it is working, however the Lewis girl at the bottom of the pendulum I turn it to increase a time or decrease the time how does it go or work?”
Me, “Your Mauthe clock is from the 1960s. It is a time and strike and should run reliably for years. To adjust the rate, turn the thumbscrew at the bottom of the pendulum clockwise to speed the clock up or counterclockwise to slow it down.”
DK, “Thanks Rockin Ronnie. Does this clock have any value?”
Me, “Not especially. Depends on the market but perhaps upwards of 100US in top condition.”
DK, “Thanks Ron I kind of figured as much. Have yourself a good day and thank you for everything!”
Note: In 1970, Mauthe struggled for survival, and in 1975 the company was in receivership and forced to close in 1976.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
D writes
“Hi there. I came across your posts while searching for a repair manual for my clock.
I have a Daniel Dakota 15 day clock which runs about 15 minutes fast each day. I long ago lost the instructions/manual but thought you may be able to give me a tip or two to slow down the movement.
Let me know!”
D’s clock is similar to this Daniel Dakota wall clock
My reply.
“Thanks D,
First, I assume that it is a mechanical clock with winding arbours. Here is an excerpt from one of my blog articles posted earlier this year.
Regulating your mechanical clock – its easier than you think
Regulating your clock is the process of making repeated, precise adjustments to its mechanism with the goal of enhancing its accuracy and ensuring it functions as a reliable timekeeper over an extended period.
The running of your mechanical clock is influenced by three key factors: neglect, friction, and the environment. These elements will determine whether your clock can maintain accurate timekeeping. The article ends with tips on regulating your clock and the effects of mainspring power on timekeeping.
Let’s look at each factor.
Neglect
Neglect is easy to understand: without proper care, a clock will lose its reliability as a timekeeper. Placing a clock in a sunny spot, especially in a hot window, can cause the case to age prematurely and dry out the movement. Setting a clock near a heat source, like a heating vent, can affect its performance. Transporting a weight-driven clock without securing the weights can result in broken case parts and shattered glass. Moving a pendulum clock without removing the pendulum can cause internal damage.
Additionally, turning the hands backward should be avoided unless the manufacturer specifically permits it in the clock’s instructions.
Using a winding crank
Friction
Each moving part of a clock must be in optimal condition. The gear train should move freely, but excess friction will negatively impact the clock’s performance. Regular lubrication is crucial to prevent this. Friction causes wear, and over time, wear can lead to costly and time-consuming repairs. As bushing wear accelerates, the clock’s functionality will deteriorate, eventually causing it to stop.
Close-up of bushing wear; the pivot hole is oval when it should be circular
It’s good practice to inspect your clock’s movement every year or two and add oil if the pivots are dry. If you notice a buildup of thick, dirty oil around the pivot holes during your inspection, it’s time to service the clock’s movement. This can be done either by you, if you have the necessary skills, or by a clock specialist.
Six bushings installed on the back plate of a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock movement
Once the lubricating oil is used up or dries out the clock continues to run but the wheels are running without lubrication in their pivots holes. Once the pivot holes are enlarged (see above) the gears begin to run too deep into each other and the clock eventually stops. In clock circles the proper function of one gear operating with another, smoothly is referred to as “meshing”. Once wear becomes a factor, winding the springs no longer helps, as the springs lack sufficient power, or the gears fail to mesh properly, preventing them from overcoming friction in the gear train.
This leads some owners to think the clock is stopping due to being “over-wound,” when in reality, it’s simply worn out, or there is so much debris and dried oil in the mainspring that it sticks and refuses to unwind.
Preventative maintenance can help avoid costly repairs.
Servicing a clock is a separate topic altogether but black or green oil around or in the pivot holes is an indication that re-oiling will be ineffective; dis-assembly and cleaning of the movement is necessary.
Mixing old, dirty clock oil with new oil will speed up wear, and adding more oil won’t improve its performance.
Environment
Changes in the ambient temperature of your environment will affect it’s timekeeping rate. It is quite common to make seasonal adjustments to your clock. If you are in a temperate climate such as my part of the world, humidity, and temperature changes have a noticeable effect on the rate-keeping of any clock. Increasing the ambient temperature will slow it down, from the expansion and lengthening of the pendulum rod (unless it has a compensating type pendulum).
Clocks perform better in the more controlled environment of a home, but damp basements, window sills, bathrooms, areas above heating elements or vents, garages, and other humid spaces are unsuitable for mechanical clocks. Harsh environments can damage both the movement and the case, leading to issues like cracks, fading, and detached veneer in addition to a myriad of problems with the movement.
Pendulum bob with regulating adjustment
Regulating your Mechanical Clock
Regulating a clock often means making incremental changes to the length of the pendulum by means of a rate adjustment screw located at the end of the pendulum, or as in the case of a French clock pendulum (above) a rating screw inside the bob. Turning the rating screw clockwise shortens the pendulum (faster) and counterclockwise lengthens (slower) it.
Usually, one full turn of the screw means adding or subtracting a minute per week. To simplify the process some clocks have a rate adjustment arbour on the dial, typically at the 12 o’clock position. That way you do not have to open the access door at the back of the clock to adjust the rating nut on the pendulum.
Rate adjustment arbor
If you have a double-ended key, the smaller end is used for the rate adjustment arbour. The “S” (slow) and “F” (fast) settings correspond to adjusting the clock’s speed—slowing it down or speeding it up. Clocks may have either one of these adjustments, but sometimes both (adjustable pendulum and rate adjustment arbor), as on this French shelf clock.
French mantel clock
Rate adjustment is a trial-and-error process and typically takes a week or longer. If you can adjust your mechanical clock within a minute or two per week you are doing well. You will gradually gain a feel for the kind of adjustment required to regulate your particular clock.
Clocks without pendulums are those that have lever escapements, floating balance escapements, or balance wheel escapements. Regulation is achieved by moving a lever from slow to fast (as indicated on a wheel for instance) or adjusting weights in one direction or another on the escape wheel. There are specific directions on how to this and it is best to consult the instruction manual on your clock or search for resources online.
Mainspring Power and Regulation
When winding a spring-driven clock you are winding a sturdy coiled metal spring. The mainspring is an energy storage system or a power source. When you turn the key the winding gets tighter until you cannot turn the key any further. This stored energy (or potential energy) is now ready to be released but because a clock has reduction gears and an escapement (method for energy to escape) the energy is designed to be released at a steady and controlled rate. The purpose of the gear train is to convert the slow rotation of the main wheel into the faster rotation needed to tell the time. Each wheel in the train turns faster than the previous one.
A spring-driven clock tends to release most of its energy at the beginning of a cycle and releases less energy towards the end of it’s winding cycle which is typically an 8-day period. Most clocks will run longer than eight days but will lose more time as the spring supplies less power.
Regulating some spring-driven clocks can be challenging due to the way they release their power, though this can vary depending on the clockmaker. If your vintage or antique spring-driven mantel or wall clock is accurate to within 1-2 minutes per week, it’s performing quite well.
Sessions Beveled No 2 tambour style clock and French carriage clock
My Sessions time and strike tambour-style clock typically runs about one minute fast at the start of the week and around one minute slow by the end of the week. This is normal.
This one-weight Vienna wall clock is accurate to within 30 seconds a week
On the other hand, weight-driven clocks are more accurate since they release power at a constant rate through the winding cycle. Weight-driven clocks are generally more reliable timekeepers and are easier to regulate.
Junghans Crispi wall clock with compensating pendulum
Neglect, friction, and environmental factors play a significant role in a clock’s ability to keep accurate time. By ensuring proper maintenance, placing your clock in a location free from heat and humidity, and regularly checking for adequate lubrication, you can extend its lifespan, maintain its value, and enjoy dependable performance for years to come.
Regulating a clock often means making incremental changes to the length of the pendulum by means of a rate adjustment screw located at the end of the pendulum. Turning the rating screw clockwise shortens the pendulum (faster) and counter clockwise lengthens it (slower). Usually one full turn of the screw means adding or subtracting a minute per week.
In your case I would make several counter clockwise turns of the rating screw at the bottom of the pendulum to begin with and see how it does over the course of a day or two. Make sure that the pendulum bob actually drops when turning the screw counter clockwise.
If you can get your clock within 2-3 minutes a week you are doing well.”
While touring through the United States we had an opportunity to explore the “magic” of antique malls. Antique malls are typically located in former department stores such as Macys or JC Penny found in commercial areas of a town or city. Antique malls are an American cultural experience. They are not a unique experience for me as I have been in much smaller antique malls in Canada but this one was very BIG!
Dozens of vendor stalls
A particular example I will use is the Maumee Antique Mall located north of Toledo, Ohio. For the antique shopper the first impression is of a giant smorgasbord of antiques. Could I find a bargain given the huge selection of antique items? The Maumee Mall would have about 200 vendors or more. Each vendor would occupy a small 12X12 stall though some might have more than one stall.
It was a weekday and we did not expect to see a lot of shoppers; that was certainly the case on that particular Thursday. The mall is organized into aisles with plenty of antiques with no particular organization. If one were looking for crystal, for example, some stalls would have crystal and others a slightly better selection but there is no specific area of the mall that would have a concentration of any particular item. Front end staff in a check out area handle all the transactions. The mall is filled with security cameras so you are being watched at all times. There are also security staff disguised as shoppers who are present throughout the complex. A small snack bar invites the shopper to have a bite while finding that special item.
Always and I mean always ask for a discount
There are no discounts on items below a certain fixed value ($20 for instance). Some malls are authorized to offer a %10 discount without contacting the seller. Any further negotiation on price requires the mall staff to contact the vendor who may or may not be immediately available. If contacted, the sellers normally do not offer much more than the standard 10% discount. A bit of advice; in malls such as Maumee or any antique store for that matter, always and I mean always ask for a discount.
On this particular Thursday I was shopping for antique clocks. I found nothing that I would consider a “deal” that day. A typical gingerbread clock was in the US$175 to US$200 range, a mantel clock US$100 or more.
Appears to be a deal but this Gingerbread needs a lot of workInteresting clocks but pricey
A Mauthe German box clock that was not in the best of shape was selling for US$299. In general, most clocks had serious issues such as missing hands, no pendulum, scuffed up or cracked cases and unreadable dials. Clock prices were 30% to 50% higher than you would find on eBay, any other auction site or your local mom and pop antique store. My wife was shopping for glassware & crystal and also found higher than average prices but managed to find a couple of nice items.
US$299 Mauthe time and strike wall clock
Why? High overhead is most certainly a factor. Staffing, security, and steep rental rates force the vendor to charge higher than normal prices. Malls such as this most certainly attract a customer base though I suspect not many are highly educated antique shoppers.
For the bargain shopper there are much better options in my opinion. The best bargains for clocks can be found on local community online for-sale sites where you can negotiate directly with the seller electronically or in person.
Call it a cultural experience but in my view you will not find great bargains at an antique mall. Your mileage may differ!
I enjoy the ritual of winding my clocks once a week. It gives me a chance to “see how they are doing”. Each one is like a friend and my mission is to take care of them. As I go from clock to clock I listen carefully as I wind each one, adjust as necessary to speed it up or slow it down depending on the season of the year, humidity and so on and think about the last time it was serviced and what might need to be done.
Some keep very good time, especially the weight driven ones, because they release power at a steady rate while others, like the spring driven clocks either need adjustments often or only occasionally. Like friends, they are all quite different.
The grass is always greener….
This is the energy I need to keep going by doing physical things
It is Saturday. I wind my clocks up and then decided to mow the lawn. But you know how it is, you can’t just go out to the lawn mower and start it up and mow the lawn. First I had to go buy gas. I buy 10 liters of gas and wouldn’t you know it I return from the gas station to find that I already had another half full 20 liter container tucked away in a corner of the garage.
Mowing a lawn is unnecessarily complicated. I have been mowing my lawn for 20 years and each time I mow it I look at it and decide, which pattern will I use this time? But I end up mowing it pretty much the same way every time. It is a tedious task; it is a mindless task but it needs to be done. But, you know, the lawn looks great after it is cut!
Clock collecting and repair is good for the mind and soul
Anyway, the point is that this is the energy I need to keep going by doing physical things. Even cutting the lawn allows me to think about life’s little problems and provides the exercise that I need. Winding clocks is great therapy because it gets me off the couch and off the internet which is a time-sucking monster. Repairing clocks takes less physical energy but much more mental energy that keeps the brain cells from drying up.
Looking for new clocks to acquire or repairing my clocks takes a certain level of both physical and mental energy. It is a good feeling. Unlike lawn cutting there is nothing about clock collecting and repair that is mindless or tedious, you have to think about everything you do, meet each challenge with the thought that I might even learn something new.
For example, faced with two identical Sessions time and strike movements each one might have very unique challenges like a worn escape wheel tooth on one or a broken mainspring on another. Or, faced with a decision to buy or not to buy I must weigh the cost against my desire to have that particular clock. These weighty decisions take a lot of mental energy.
Worn escape wheel toothSessions mainspring
Clock collecting and repair is good for the mind and soul. One of the things I enjoy most is facing a difficult challenge and seeing it through to the very end, stepping back and saying….yeah, I did that. Take my Junghans Crispi wall clock for example.
This is what it looked like when I first got itThis is what it looks like now
I decided that I would do my best to fully restore this clock
My mission from the very beginning was to have a Victorian style showpiece. I imagined what it might eventually look like and decided that I would do my best to fully restore this clock. Yes, there were challenges working on the case and learning new ways to fashion complex pieces, stain, glue and so forth. There were also challenges addressing issues with the movement which had not been running in 100 years.
I made the difficult decision to bring the clock to a horologist that I have used in the past. Why, it had two issues that I could not fix because I do not have the proper tools. I decided that while it was in the shop instead of having those two issues addressed, why not have it serviced completely. The horologist who worked on the clock did a fantastic job. When I picked it up she was very curious about its history and remarked that it was the first style of clock she had ever worked on.
Was it worth the many hours and the money to bring this fine Victorian style clock back to its former glory? Absolutely, without question! The before and after photos of this clock constantly remind me that when I put my mind to something I can achieve a fantastic result and every time I look at it I feel a sense of immense achievement. It gives me energy!
Yes, clock collecting and repair is good for the mind and soul. It is clock therapy and it works!
There is a peculiar phenomena happening in the clock world today and that is tumbling clock prices. French cartelle clocks, American jewelers regulators, original E. Howard and Willard banjo clocks to name a few have retained their value but clocks that would have sold for hundreds of dollars a few short years ago can be had for almost nothing today. It is not a great sellers market.
Rare Ingraham Huron shelf clock was once sought after by collectors
Prices will not rise any time soon as modern generations have been conditioned to discarding old for new irrespective of merit and in contradiction to the ideology that recycling saves the planet
Why are clock prices so low?
I have acquired some very nice clocks for ridiculously low prices. While it is part luck there is ample evidence that recent clock prices have never been lower.
There are so many clocks that no one seems to want. Gingerbreads, school house clocks, mantel clocks, Ogees (30 hour or one-day especially), calendar clocks and most garden variety clocks go for very low prices. Good for collectors, not so good for sellers. Prices will not rise any time soon as modern generations have been conditioned to discarding old for new irrespective of merit and in contradiction to the ideology that recycling saves the planet.
Millennials are also facing a very different world than I and my contemporaries faced. Factory work or clerical positions are now considered a good job and young people are staying with mom and dad living in their old rooms as they try to pay off mortgage size student loans. Under those circumstances you will not consider buying a tall case clock or an 18th century French clock.
Thanks but I have no place to put one
My generation (I am in my 60s) did not typically have mechanical clocks in their homes (aside from Grandfather and cuckoo clocks), so younger people today do not have those kind of memories to inspire nostalgia. In my day mechanical clocks were thrown in the trash when they wore out to make way for the electric clock. For young people today the old clocks we loved are not in their sights for purchase. An offer to gift a clock to a millennial is often met with the reply, “Thanks but I have no place to put one” and of course, winding it is always a hassle. A visit to any antique store or clock fair says it all when observations show the average age of visitors and traders are often in their “senior” years.
Junghans Crispi wall clock, not rare but a fascinating history
Prices of clocks really did not begin their rise in value (at least in North America) until the mid to late ’50’s. Since then and up until the late nineties many ordinary clocks commanded high prices. Since the year 2000, the economy has been spiraling downward. Paralleling the declining economy is the decline of prices for antiques of all types. The at-times spectacular and troubling declines in real estate values, increasing unemployment and fewer discretionary dollars have all had an deleterious effect on dropping clock values. With the up-tick in the economy perhaps things will change
I collect clocks and other antiques for interest and history alone
I collect clocks and other antiques for interest alone and only those I can afford which often means that I will try to buy a clock for as little as possible. Collecting in this way allows me the comfort in knowing that there is no worry about future rises or drops in value. I acquire clocks simply because I want them, and pay a price that is worth it to me. If I see something that I do not have, it is unique or has some historical value and it is a reasonable price (to me), I will buy it.
However, many of us collectors are aging and downsizing. Few are in buying mode and many want to sell. The result is a glut of often lesser quality clocks that were once bought at higher prices.
French mantel clock, a very nice clock at a ridiculously low price
Unless you are prepared to learn how to repair or somehow care for an old mechanical clock you are faced with the prospect that the cost of repair far exceeds the value of the clock. Sentimental reasons always trump repair costs but the message from the clock repair person with integrity is clear, “keep it, it is not worth the cost of repairing”.
Will prices get better? Prices for antiques and collectibles is cyclical and chances are that they will go up again.
As a clock collector I have quite a few clocks in my home. Most are running daily. There are 34 clocks ticking away in my home as I write this blog article.
I have accepted them as normal sounds in my home
Some collectors have a dedicated clock room in their home but mine are scattered throughout the house. I try to arrange each one so that it fits more or less into the decor of the room. It is a big house and thankfully we have quite a few rooms in which I can display my clocks. I have all manner and styles of clocks including mantel, wall clocks, shelf clocks, carriage clocks, desk clocks, anniversary clocks but just one floor clock. My particular preference is wall clocks; I have 13 of them.
Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator and Seth Thomas round top
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon in an upper hallway
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock atop a Stromberg Carlson radio
So how do I put up with the cacophony of clock noises in the house? One, I thoroughly enjoy the sound of a mechanical clock and two, I have accepted them as normal sounds in my house.
However, there are rules in our house.
No striking or chiming clocks in or near the master bedroom.
No clocks in the bathrooms.
Clocks are stopped in those areas where guests are sleeping unless they do not object.
Are there clocks in the bedroom? Of course, three to be exact. Two are 400 day clocks like the one in the next photo and the third is a banjo clock.
9 inch miniature 400 day Kundo clock
The Ingraham Nordic banjo clock has a front-wind lever escapement and I would challenge anyone to hear this clock across a room. Is is no louder than an old alarm clock. The 400 day clocks are, of course, virtually silent.
We have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it
Ingraham Nordic Banjo Clock
This is my advice to those of you who love mechanical clocks but are bothered by the “noise”:
Some clocks are loud tickers and some are not. As a general rule American clocks tend to be much louder tickers than German or French clocks. Loud clocks should be placed in noisy areas
Avoid clocks that have a striking or a chiming train. If you are not fond of the sound of an hourly or quarter hour strike clock, simply search for a time-only clock.
Most chiming clocks (Westminster chimes are the most common) have a shut-off feature located on the dial face.
For time and strike clocks simply wind the time side only. However, purists would say that this is not good for the clock.
Carriage clocks, clocks with lever escapements (like the Nordic above) and 400 day clocks are exceptionally quiet and do not normally strike or chime (however, some carriage clocks do strike).
Locate your clocks in an area where you will not be bothered by them, a dedicated room, for instance.
Stop your clock or never wind it. Perhaps you can appreciate your clock as a piece of art or furniture rather than as a timepiece.
For the nostalgic, run your clocks only at certain special times of the year.
Mauthe Box clock
I rarely hear my clocks. Yes, I am aware of the ticking if I stop and listen. By and large I am not at all bothered by the sounds of my clocks. In fact, we have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful bim-bam sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it.
It this day and age it is very common to have family scattered to the four winds. What time is it is such and such? Why not create timezone clocks? I live in Canada and I have one daughter in Calgary, Alberta, one of our mid-western provinces and one in Victoria, BC, on the west coast of Canada. We keep in touch with Skype and telephone and as I am working on my computer in the kitchen area of my home all it takes is one glance upwards to see what time it is in Calgary or Victoria.
This is my trio of clocks. The two on either side are eight inch while the centre clock has a 12 inch dial. The centre clock is a New Haven time and strike from the 1930s taken out of a decommissioned school house in Saskatchewan in the 1950s. My aim is to have three 8 inch dial clocks. Once I find another 8 inch time-only clock the New Haven will be replaced.
New Haven time and strike clock
Waterbury Arion drop octagon
I later painted three numerals
The clock on the left is a Waterbury Arion. It came to me without glazing and bezel but ordering a replacement was easy enough through a clock supplier, Perrin in Canada. While writing this blog I decided to touch-up the 7, 8, and 9 numerals. It is the quietest of the three clocks.
The one on the right is Sessions Drop Octagon. The dial face is in rough shape but I decided to leave it as-is. The clock came from a decommissioned schoolhouse in Springhill, Nova Scotia in the 1960s.
Sessions Drop Octagon
It is by far the noisiest of the three but you get used to the sound. All three will be time-only clocks, preferred if you are looking for the dedicated function of simply telling the time. Of the three my favorite is the Waterbury. Even with the “messed-up” dial face, it is the most accurate of the three and will run for 12-15 days on a single wind.
Keeping track of family all over the country is part of being a normal modern family and timezone clocks certainly help.
This post describes the final detail work on my Junghans clock.
My winter (2017) project was an antique German Junghans Crispi time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was manufactured in Schwenningen, Germany in 1899. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it was the challenge I was waiting for.
A clock in a box, how it came
I wrote a multi-part series on the restoration of this clock. Use the search feature on this site to find past articles. I discovered this antique clock from a seller on an online for-sale site in January (2017) and was intrigued with its incredible history as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion on Dec 6, 1917.
On the morning of 6 December 1917 the SS Mont Blanc a French cargo ship laden with high explosives and Benzol collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Narrows, a strait connecting the upper Halifax harbour to Bedford Basin. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a large explosion that devastated the Richmond District of Halifax. Approximately 2,000 people were killed by blast, debris, fires and collapsed buildings, and an estimated 9,000 others were injured……and a Junghans clock fell off the wall in a house on Princess court, North End Halifax
At first I was not sure how far I would go with this project but I decided I must go all the way towards restoring this clock to its former 19th century glory.
Most of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, coil gong and movement bracket as are the bottom base and top part of the case plus the crown, the backboard, the vertical columns and most of the decorative trim. What has been replaced is the box frame, the front piece that supports the right and left columns. I can only assume that parts of the clock were destroyed beyond repair on that fateful day.
Thirty years ago the previous owner used contemporary materials and techniques to reconstruct the frame and front piece. Although not authentic, I have no objection for two reasons; much of what he has done is unseen and care was taken to replicate period woodworking techniques to reconstruct the case except for the Robertson screws. During the restoration process I have added or in some cases made:
Front glass and 2 side glass panels,
3 glass support rails,
3 top replacement finals,
2 newly constructed top finial bases,
2 brass door hinges,
2 brass door catches,
2 brass case stabilizers,
2 hardwood trim pieces and
6 decorative buttons.
Original 1899 catalog image
I disassembled the movement and in the process made two errors. In my attempt to re-position the star wheel paddle by bending it just a little bit, I managed to snap it off. Although I might have been able to fix it I do not have the tools, yet! I also managed to snap off the paddle wheel arbor spring which is essentially a thin steel rod. Again, I could have fixed it if I had the tools. As a result the strike side did not function. I cleaned and re-assembled the movement, got the movement running and thought, what is my next move?
Very dirty movement; after all it had not been running in years
I might have been content with a time-only clock but I decided that my mission was to have it fully restored. I decided to bring the clock to a horologist that I have used in the past. While it was in the shop, why not have it serviced completely. The horologist did a great job and when I picked it up she remarked that it was the first style of clock she had ever worked on.
What remains? There are two trim item on the left side just below one of the buttons as you can see in the photo below and a corner piece on the right side of the case in the same area.
Let’s see if my skill with router can address these issues.
Missing trim piece, not quite finished!
I took out my vintage Black & Decker router and managed to find the correct bit. Since it is a very small trim piece birch rather than oak would do. I made the measurements using my micrometer. The dimensions had to be precise in order to duplicate the trim piece exactly. I am very pleased with the result. Now for the right side.
Last trim piece, left bottom side
matching trim pieces
I made a corner piece out of birch and glued it in place. In the next two photos you can see the very small piece that fits into the corner trim.
Corner piece is missing
Hardwood replacement piece
Corner piece is glued into place
I am very pleased with the repair.
I posted a reference to this clock in one of my blogs and received a curious letter from someone who thought it was a Chinese clock. I fully understand the comment because the clock is so “blingy”. The many brass buttons and trim items might make one think that it was made in China. It simply reflects the Victorian era, a grand excess of ornament and an eclectic revival of historic styles mixed with middle east and Asian influences in furniture design. A Chinese clock? No, but an understandable error.
Garish Victorian excess but I like it!
It is a clock that will be in our family for years to come
Was it worth the hours of toil and the money to bring this Victorian style clock back to its former glory? Absolutely, without question! The clock works perfectly. The coil gong on the hour and half hour sounds terrific and resonates throughout the house. Visitors to my home are immediately drawn to the clock because of its unique Victorian style. Indeed, it is a clock that will be in our family for years to come.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
DP writes, “Hello Ron: I have a clock I bought recently at an auction.The clock is from Pictou County Nova Scotia. It has Canadian Time On the glass. I live about 50 kms from Truro. I would like to take the clock over to you and find out if it is a Pequegnat clock. The clock keeps good time. It is made out of birds eye maple. It measures 29 inches high, 15.5 inches wide and 5 inches deep. My technology skills are not very good and I am not able to send you a picture. My name is DP and I would be pleased to hear from you.”
Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock
My response to DP
“Yes you are pretty close to where I am. We can meet but you can also save yourself some trouble by doing a little investigating yourself. Regarding the dimensions, are you measuring the whole clock from top to bottom. The Canadian Time is 36 inches high by 15.5 by 5 inches deep. If the entire height of yours is 29 inches you are likely missing the top piece (crown) and the bottom section or both. Most were made of quarter sawn oak. I have never seen one in Bird’s Eye maple. And the words “Canadian Time are stenciled in gold on the glass door.
Next, on the bottom part of the dial face you should find the inscription, “Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company”. If not, it is a replacement dial.
Company name under the chapter ring
If you are adventurous enough, you can unscrew the minute hand nut, take off the minute hand and pull off the hour hand underneath which is a friction fit. Next, you can unscrew the square wood panel the dial pan is mounted on. There should be 3 screws, one on top and one on either side. Once you unscrew those you can take the piece that holds the dial pan out. You can then check to see if the company name is stamped on the lower right hand side of the movement. Obviously if it says Arthur Pequegnat, that is what you have. I have included photos showing what you should see when you open it up.
Movement after taking off the dial pan.
Company name stamped on the movement
Let me know how you make out.”
DP writes back.
“Hello Ron, I am not really comfortable taking the clock apart. I did take it over to DG in BH about a week or two ago. He repairs watches and clocks. He did a repair to a thin strip or band of metal (punched a new hole through it) and then reconnected it to the movement. DP is referring to the suspension spring. When it was apart the only thing I could see written on the movement was (no jewel and I think not adjustable or unadjustable). It looks like the movement might have been replaced because there are two extra holes on the back. The dial face has been put back in place incorrectly and has nothing printed on the face. I would like to take the clock to you and just get your views and opinions on where or who might have it or any other information you can give me. I would be pleased to hear from you.”
DP, “An Arthur Pequegnat movement would never have “no jewels” or “non-adjustable”on the movement. The company name would clearly be there. What you have is what some collectors would term to be a “marriage”, that is a case with another, more modern movement. If your case is 29 inches high then something is clearly missing. If you still want me to look at it, I will. Give me a call at (phone) and we’ll meet.
Folk art version of Canadian Time
DP arrived with the clock that he won at a local auction for CDN$25. Underneath the folk art and all the modifications is, indeed, a Canadian Time Clock. What appears to be maple finish is painted Birds Eye maple; underneath is oak. The base and crown are missing; the dial is a replacement and whoever replaced it mounted the dial in the wrong position. The decals are on the outside of the glass and were added later probably the same time as the Birds eye maple finish. The pendulum bob, painted some sort of brass or gold colour, is original but the pendulum rod is a replacement with a home-made leader hook. The only thing in good shape and original is the Canadian Time reverse decal.
DP attaches the pendulum
The movement is a replacement, an Indian made reproduction time-only movement exactly like this one at Timesavers.
Found on the back of the dial pan is this inscription.
Inscription on folk art clock
REPAIRED SEPT 18, 2013
REPAIRS BY JAMES xxxxxx
12C PLEASANT ST STELLERTON NS
CLOCK AND xxxxxx CLOCKMAKER SINCE 1956
In short, it is a very modern interpretation of a classic clock. If it were my clock I would not do a thing to return it to its original condition; there are just too much things that would need to be addressed. However, it might be appealing to some people as a piece of folk art. As a piece of folk art DP should be pleased that he got a good deal.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s) and of course, general comments. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
On my trip to Cuba in March of 2016 I happen to capture a number of interesting clocks. The two pictured below prompted a comment from JC.
Wm Gilbert clock found in a restarant
Malaprade Floor clock
The first two clocks are the most interesting to me. The Gilbert looks fairly standard (often called a “Store Regulator”) but I think it’s been painted black. Normally these are in oak cases, occasionally (but rarely) in walnut. The colour would have matched the interior back.
The second clock looks like a fine and expensive Jeweler’s Pinwheel Regulator. I’m wondering if you’re wrong about it being spring driven. These are normally always weight driven. The weight normally hangs behind the pendulum. Is it possible you didn’t see the weight? The movements from these are almost always Swiss made (near the Jura region of France), with pinwheel escapements. They are VERY EXPENSIVE clocks. The movement alone would fetch around 1000$. I have no idea what that circle is on the dial. I’ve seen some with inlaid marble dials, but most have enameled dials like this one. Cases can range from plain to extremely elaborate, and from 5 feet to 9-10 feet.
The name and place on the dial is the retailer where the clock was sold. It is never the manufacturer (this is typical on all French and some Swiss clocks of this type/vintage – the same is true of Comtoise clocks and French mantle clocks).
The rest of the clocks (with the exception of the 2 figure 8 wall clocks) seem to be imported German clocks from 1930 and later. These include both tall clocks and all the 400 day clocks shown. The figure 8 clocks are either American or Asian made copies (likely from Japan) from the early 1900s.
We often cruise the HiBid sites. While they may be wholly Canadian I am sure there are similar sites in the US. HiBid are a hosting service for antique online auction companies and from time to time clocks come up on estate sales.
One day in early February 2017 we were on a Nova Scotia HiBid auction site and noticed a Jauch drop octagon with a PL42 movement. I made what I thought was a reasonably good bid. We had errands to run that day so I just left the bid, got home later and realized and surprised that I had won. It was a good purchase. After running for several weeks I opened the case up and discovered its hidden secret.
Time-only Jauch movement
The clock easily runs a full 8-day cycle but it gains about 5-7 minutes at the beginning of the cycle and loses the same at the end of the cycle. A dramatic difference! A properly functioning clock is designed to run at an acceptable rate of + or- 1 minute per week but this depends on adequate power to the escapement with very little fluctuation in that power.
Scored pivots and worn barrel arbor holes are real issues for this movement. The pivots are small, a light touch with a buff stick and a minimal polish along with pegging and round broaching the holes should be the first steps in reviving this clock. Bushing work is also quite possible. The barrels are another matter. If worn, they require bushing. The cap is too thin to bush without making a thin flange or leaving the bush a bit proud and peening both sides. The barrel is narrow and it is said that they really get the wobbles when worn.
This is an inexpensive German movement but finely made and well engineered. An overhaul should result in a good long run.
I took the movement apart and discovered two things. One, it needs at least 3, perhaps 4 bushings and secondly, there is a significant gap in the barrel cap as seen in the photo below.
Barrel cap showing a wide gap caused by wear around the arbour, weak point of this movement
Front plate is removed showing going train
The real issue for me is the barrel cap. I can attempt to bush the cap but the bushing would likely not hold unless it is peened. The gap is causing an unbalance in power transmitted through the gears as a result of the wear. The soft brass barrel cap is definitely a weakness of this movement. The result is the erratic running described above and a wobble in the pendulum. I contacted a gentleman in Arizona who would be prepared to correct the wear by installing two new bushings on the gear side and cap of the barrel. The cost is 1 1/2 times the value of the clock so I have decided against that option. It is just not worth it!
1 Day Later
I installed 3 bushings. The front side of the escape wheel arbour, the front side of the second wheel and the minute shaft. I re-assembled the movement, oiled it, adjusted the pallets, reinstalled the worn barrel and have put the movement back into its case. It is now running and in the next week or two I will see what effect new bushings will have on the running of the clock. My hope is a marginal improvement given the worn barrel.
A barrel repair will have to wait until I have the proper tools.
Would you like to tell the world about your special clock?
Would you like to tell the world about your special clock? Is it a clock you have had for years or was it handed down to you or you did you win it an an auction or find it in a dark corner of an antique store?
Is it a favorite clock you would like to see profiled on this blog? It could be one of the clocks in my collection or it could be one of your own (or several that you own). If you would like to profile your own clock(s) send me as many photos as you can (1 meg each is fine) but include shots of the movement as well. If I use your photos I have your permission to post them. If you are using photos that someone else took (Google or eBay for example) it becomes more problematic from a copyright perspective.
Circa 1890 French Black Marble time and strike desk clock
I will keep your name and location private
Provide me with a history of the clock and/or some interesting details that I could include in the blog article and let me know if you want your name included. If not I can assign an identifier, the first and last letters of your name and of course I will keep your location private.
Regular reader and contributor JC suggested a few more clock terms I thought readers and fellow horologists might find interesting.
My source for this article is the Watch and Clock Encyclopedia by Donald de Clarke, published by Bonanza Books (1984) which is still available on Amazon.
Gridiron pendulum: A pendulum consisting of alternating steels and brass rods coupled together to compensate for downward expansion so that the centre of oscillation of the pendulum remains consistent with changes in temperature, invented by John Harrison in 1725.
Gridiron pendulum on a Junghans Crispi wall clock
Broaches: To broach is to open and enlarge a hole. A Broach is a steel cutting or smoothing tool with a tapered or parallel sided edge used to cut or “finish” holes in a clock plate. Used to enlarge and then finish (smooth) a newly installed bushing on a clock plate.
A set of Swiss made smoothing (or finishing) broaches
Motion Works: The train or wheels of a clock directly connected with the hour and minute hand.
Great wheel: The teeth that form part of the barrel of the going barrel. It is also the wheel to which the mainspring is attached.
The motion works of a clock; the largest wheel on this movement is the great wheel (Pequegnat Clock Co.)
Maintaining Power: A method to maintain the driving power while the weight is being lifted or mainspring with fusee is being wound. In effect keeping the mechanism going while winding.
Weight driven movement with maintaining power, (unmarked Vienna Regulator)
Huygens Endless Rope Drive: It is a method of providing maintaining power to drive the clock while the weight was being raised. The endless cord passes over pulley A which is attached to the great wheel and supports the driving weight B, it then passes over pulley C which has a ratchet to support small weight D. As cord E is pulled down to wind the clock ratchet C turns under it’s click to raise weight B which continues to drive the clock as it supplies torque to wheel A. This ingenious system is found in some 18th century long-case clocks.
Huygens endless rope
Locking Wheel (or Count Wheel): A count wheel is the wheel that determines the number of blows to be struck in striking mechanisms.
The left wheel with notches is the count wheel
Ratchet wheel: A toothed wheel into which a click engages permitting the wheel to revolve in one direction only.
Toothed ratchet wheel and click
Cam: Usually a disk so that upon revolving it transmits movement to or exerts pressure upon a connecting unit.
Arrow showing location of a cam, the fly is located in the upper right
Fly: Often called the governor or controller of a chime or strike train. It is the last piece in a train of wheels.
The language of the clock world always amazes me. There are a plethora of other clock terms that I will be happy to explore in future blogs.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
This an antique (circa 1895) Mauthe Horse Crown Clock. Some would say it is ugly but I disagree – it is a beautiful clock. Some would even say it is a Vienna Regulator style of clock. PS has a different opinion.
PS says. “Happy to see this – my parents in law had exactly the same clock ! The wood was brighter and the horse stood (a bit loose) on the roof directly, so most likely a part was missing. We have destroyed (yes! yes!) the wooden case – quite a tough job, German quality. We found it sooo ugly, sooo old-fashioned! We left the the metal parts alive, though. The clock needs maintenance, because it does not continue to tick. I could send it for free to a clock-lover for a build-in somewhere. Any hints? Greetings from Brussels, Belgium”.
This why it is called Horse Crown clock
My reply. “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I think it is a good looking clock but it is only my opinion. If it has the same movement as my Mauthe you could send it to me for use as parts should my Mauthe decide to stop.”
German box clocks are quite common. Prices for these clocks are all over the map, some ask hundreds of dollars but they can be had for very little money like this Mauthe box clock I picked up in a flea market outside Peterborough Ontario. The hands were faded and the case was in rough shape but I knew it was a good deal.
Mauthe box clock, as found
Thousands of German “box clocks” were made in the first third of the 20th century and even to the middle of the century. The box clock replaced the classic “Vienna Regulator” after the First World War and reflected a minimalist approach to clock design. Most, if not all, were made in Germany. Despite the absence of markings, I have no doubt that this clock was made in Germany by Mauthe.
This vintage clock is 29 inches long by 13 inches wide and 7 inches deep. It has a 7-inch silvered Arabic dial with a spade hour hand and speared minute hand. The lower section of the case door has 5 beveled glass panels (middle one is arched) with brass connecting strips. There are two fluted columns that frame either side of the door and circular glazed viewing panels on each side. The movement is mounted and secured by thumbscrews on a seat board. The clock case is in fair to good condition with no gouges, deep scratches or missing pieces. Refinishing at some point in its life combined with environment factors has resulted in a darker walnut shade. The case is made of cheaper pine rather than the more expensive oak found in higher end box clocks.
The door has its original glass, catches, hinges and swings very easily. There are no case stabilizers (stand-offs) which I found curious given the height and weight of the clock. It has a rod gong twist locking feature about one third up from the longest rod to secure the rods during transport. Rods are brittle and can easily snap off if unsecured when moving the clock.
Rod twist lock to secure the rods during transport
I would comfortably date the clock to the 1930s
The dial face has been “messed with” in some fashion. I suspect someone tried to clean the face with an abrasive cleaner as there are scratches on the numerals. The numbers were touched up with flat black acrylic metal paint. Evidence that it was distributed by a Canadian clock company is a maple leaf applique on the crown.
Maple leaf applique and Divina gong
The five-point maple leaf is a common symbol for Canada. There are two possibilities. It might have been sold by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto or Eaton’s department store under the Solar (Soler?) brand name. I would date the clock to the 1930s.
The price was right so I bought it
The rack and snail, time and strike, spring powered movement with recoil escapement has no markings but for the numbers 42 (pendulum length in cm) and 105 (beats per minute), the letters C,A, with numbers, 79/9 engraved in the lower right of the front plate, presumably a clock-makers mark for servicing in September of 1979 and a serial number, 25226. The back plate is solid brass while the front plate is open. It also has a repeater function on the strike side.
Mauthe movement front plate
This is an antique mall find and the seller left a note saying that the clock required servicing (code for not running). While on the wall in the store the clock ran for a few seconds and then stopped. So, yes, it needs servicing. The price was right so I bought it.
Mauthe movement back plate
I took the movement out of its case, inspected it and found it very clean. I looked for any obvious signs of wear or damage such as bent arbors or broken teeth and found nothing. The pivots holes were dry though absent of the tale-tell signs of thick black or green oil indicating wear. The mainsprings were wound tight as I would have expected. I oiled the movement, ran it outside the case for a few hours, returned it to its case, re-positioned the 3 strike hammers for the rod gongs and it ran strong, striking as it should on the hour and half hour.
The 3-rod “Divina gong” was, according to the standard German reference, Hans-Heinrich Schmid’s (2005) Lexikon der Deutschen Uhrenindustrie 1850-1980, a Mauthe trade-name registered in 1912. I compared the movement to similar Mauthe movements online and but for minor details it is the same. The case design is plain and free of decoration and is quite unremarkable save for the aforementioned beveled glass panels.
Divina rod gong, patented by Mauthe in 1912
I refreshed the case by first giving it a good cleaning with Murphy’s Soap. The cleaning revealed some light and dark patches so I opted to give the case a light coat of walnut stain followed by Poly Wipe Satin clear coat.
Box clock after case cleaning and refresh
There is not much I could do with the unsightly black smudges on the dial without lifting the silvering so I left that untouched but it still retains that vintage look.
Repainted numerals and hands
There were a number of unsightly black marks on the pendulum bob that I cleaned up using Brasso. Brasso was also used to clean up the brass bezel. The beveled glass and the brass strips were cleaned as well.
The Divina rod gong bim-bam strike has an especially pleasing resonance that echos through the house.
For a 50CDN investment the result after a refresh, is remarkable. It shows very well and it is a welcome addition to my growing clock collection.
I did not have a banjo clock in my collection and my latest acquisition is certainly a banjo styled clock but not in the tradition of a true weight-driven American banjo clock which continues to allude me.
There is no scarcity of spring driven recoil escapement (lever escapement) banjo clocks. This particular clock has a balance wheel/hairspring escapement which Ingraham calls a “marine” movement.
Balance wheel/hairspring movement
This is the Nordic, one of a series of small, hairspring banjos that Ingraham produced in the late 1920s and 1930s. The Nordic is one of three that Ingraham introduced during the aforementioned period, the others being the Norfolk and The Norway. In the mid 1920s it would have cost about $11.00.
Nordics come up occasionally on EBay and seem to be very desirable if in very good condition. Often the throat or bottom tablet is cracked or missing and the clock face is distressed in some fashion. This particular clock is in exceptional condition for its age and shows very well. It is both diminutive and attractive.
Marine movements were (and are) very accurate eight day lever movements which are key wound and key regulated. It is wound from the front unlike Gilberts and others that must be taken down from the wall to be wound. The movements are constructed with extra heavy brass plates, steel cut pinions, a double roller escapement and are made to last.
Reverse glass nautical scene
The case is described by Ingraham as having a “fine rubbed mahogany finish”. Fake done nicely!
These movements are not commonly found outside the confines of a case. They were also used in other Ingraham wall clocks. Tran Duy Ly’s book on Ingraham Banjo marine movement clocks shows them from the 1927 catalog.
Clock face showing silvered dial and press-fit hands
A Handsome Ingraham Banjo Clock
Both the hour and the minute hand are “pressed-on” friction fit. It has solid brass side arms, brassed eagle and a circular finish silver-plated dial with a non-tarnish-able gilt sash. Framed glass panels with coloured ship scene and floral throat complete the look. It is 26 inches in length. It lacks a label which would normally be affixed to the back of the clock.
As the most inexpensive of banjo clocks many homes could have one to avoid the higher cost (though higher quality) of a weight driven banjo clock.
The clock is a “Canadian made” New Haven Octagonal short drop wall clock. It was assembled at The New Haven Clock Co. of Canada plant established at Brantford, Ontario (Canada) in 1906.
New Haven schoolhouse clock
The New Haven Clock Company of Canada was a subsidiary of the New Haven Clock Company of America. Both mantel and wall clocks were made in the Brantford plant with Canadian wood cases, but the spring-driven pendulum movements were brought in from the U.S. The Canadian arm of the New Haven Clock Company closed in 1956. More information about The New Haven Clock Company can be found here. This clock was probably made in the 1940s.
The clock was removed from a schoolhouse in Saskatchewan, Alberta (Canada) in the 1960s. The previous owner said that he ran the clock for a couple of years, got tired of it and put it in storage. I hung it up on my kitchen wall for a couple of months and while it ran immediately and kept good time I considered putting off servicing with other projects on the go. However, if I ran it long enough without proper attention any wear would be exacerbated. Now is the time to service this clock.
Day One
The movement was mounted with what looked like the 4 original screws. I wondered if this movement had ever been serviced. Clues began to reveal themselves as I took the movement out for a closer inspection.
New Haven movement #304
The centre cannon arbour was very loose which is not uncommon. A bushing might be required. The pivots were in good shape and had minimal wear but most bushing holes on both the time and the strike side, front and back plates were so enlarged that there was considerable lateral movement of the wheels in both trains but not enough to stop the clock. Not the worst I have seen but clearly a clock that is in dire need of servicing. The clock ran for many years and appeared to have received not much more than basic servicing during that time.
Day Two
The movement was very dirty. The cleaning solution in the ultrasonic cleaner was dark brown in colour and large pieces of crud floated on top, a build up of dried oil and dust over the years.
An obvious example of a previous repair was the drop lever that had been soldered in two places as you can see in the photo below.
Top view of movement indicating solder points
The lever looks strong and should hold for years to come.
Strike side maintenance / drop lever
I took special care to resist bending any parts of the lever to adjust it for fear of breaking it. The helper wire/spring on the drop lever also seemed to have been replaced at some point because it looked crudely made, not something you would see in a factory installed movement. A piece of the helper wire broke off during dis-assembly which meant that I had to make a new wire/spring.
I polished the pivots and then proceeded with the bushing work prior to cleaning the movement.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
15 bushings were installed, 7 on the front plate and 8 on the rear plate. The centre cannon arbour required one bushing, a much larger one, on the rear plate.
To completely eliminate any issues with the time side I took all the strike train wheels out
Movement on test stand without strike side wheels
Without strike side wheels
Day Three to day Five
All went well while test fitting the wheels on both trains; they moved as smoothly as they should. I re-assembled the movement and attempted to align the levers on the strike side as best as I could with little success. I ran the movement on the test stand even though the drop lever was not positioned correctly. Unfortunately, the clock stopped every few hours. My suspicion was an incorrectly aligned lever somehow stopping the strike side.
To completely eliminate any issues with the time side I took all the strike train wheels out and ran the time side for 3 trouble-free days eliminating any issues with the motion works.
I consulted Steven Conover’s excellent book on strike clock movements (Striking Clock Repair Guide) to work through a solution. He devotes one chapter to the New Haven movement and clear instructions for setting up the strike side.
Day 6
After studying Steven’s manual, I reinstalled the strike side and proceeded with the necessary adjustments as follows.
The positioning of the levers are critical.
The 3 levers of the New Haven movement
There are 3 levers in this clock. Knowing how the levers function is key to getting this clock to run. The hammer strike lever (Lever number 1) performs a very simple task and installs on the bottom of the clock and is activated by the hammer lifting pins on the cam wheel. The drop and paddle lever (Lever number 2) does several jobs in unison. It pushes the unlocking lever or the lift lever (Lever number 3) down to release the warning pin to prepare the strike. The top arm of the lever number 2 rotates through the 2 – 180 degree slots of the cam while the bottom arm forms the paddle that enters the deep slots of the count wheel to indicate the strike on both the hour and half hour. The upper arm of this lever must be on the upper rear part of the slot on the cam to work correctly. I found this through trial and error. Needless to say, the positioning of the levers are critical. Once the levers were positioned correctly, the clock ran beautifully.
Post assembly testing
The clock went through it’s full 8-day cycle without any issues striking as it should. The movement was mounted back into it’s case, is being regulated and is now on display in our living room.
This very ordinary clock reflects its utilitarian role as a schoolhouse clock; it is not the best looking or the best sounding clock in the world but like a faithful servant it should run without issues for years to come.
The Germans would not have called them schoolhouse clocks, rather, short drop octagon wall clocks. The term “schoolhouse clock” is typically an American description.
The stylistic features of the Jauch reminds me of my Canadian made Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II wall clock
Jauch wall clock
We often cruise the HiBid sites. I am not sure if they are wholly Canadian but may be in the US as well. HiBid are a hosting service for antique online auction companies and from time to time clocks come up on estate sales on various sites. One day in the past week (early February 2017) we were on a Nova Scotia HiBid auction site and noticed a Jauch drop octagon with a PL42 movement and I made what I thought was a reasonably small bid. We had errands to run that day so I just left the bid, got home later and realized that I had won. It was a good purchase.
The stylistic elements of the Jauch reminds me of my Canadian made Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II wall clock pictured here.
Brandon II by the Arthur Pequegnat Company of Kitchener Ontario, Canada
I picked the clock up yesterday (mid February 2017). There is very little wrong with it. I took the movement out of it’s case, inspected it, noticed that it was not very dirty, gave it some oil, and put it on the wall and it ran like a charm. Since it is not in dire need of disassembly and cleaning I decided to leave that for another day.
It has some unusual features. The case is solid oak, no veneers and surprisingly heavy for a clock made in 1976. The finish is light oak. The case measures 15 inches wide by 23 inches long, 5 1/4 inches deep. The movement is a time only, typical spring driven recoil escapement stamped PL42, is heavy and is well constructed with quality gearing. The date of manufacture for the movement is September, 1976. The dial bezel is hinged at the top and the spade hands are what you would typically find on this style of clock. The dial is paper on tin. The pendulum has a large and heavy nut on the back of the bob that may not be original to the clock and I am inclined to think it is a replacement. The bob can be seen through a glazed lower access panel. The previous owner made a crude “adjustment” to the case to accommodate the pendulum swing (last photo). One of two wall stabilizer screws can be seen in the fourth photo below. There is a missing top section access panel on the back of the clock that I may or may not replace.
Well made solid oak construction
Movement showing escapement
Pendulum and adjustment nut
Jauch pendulum adjustment
The clock is a Gebruder Jauch wall clock. Gebruder Jauch was a clock company from Schwenningen, Deisslingen, Germany. The Gebruder Jauch company manufactured hall, wall, and mantel clocks. They made movements for the trade, both spring and weight driven. In the late 1970’s the company fell victim to curtailed exports and the last recorded year of operation was 1978. The year they began is unclear but 1912 seems to be the consensus. Otherwise, I could find very little on this clock company. Perhaps someone can enlighten me.
My current project is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was made in Schwenningen, Germany. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.
This is Part 3.5 of a now three point five part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock.
This is Part III and a half of a series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock. In Part I described the circumstances by which I came across this clock and it’s incredible story as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion on Dec 6, 1917. In Part II I walk the reader through the servicing of the time and strike movement. In Part III I talk about the challenges of restoring the case.
I felt compelled to write Part 3.5 of the series showing the work I completed on the crown and the additional case work. I wasn’t sure how far I would go in restoring the case but the top finials are so essential to the final look of the clock that I decided to add these important elements.
The original finials might have been a little taller and wider much like the bottom centre finial
I bought three 3 and 3/4 inch finials from Timesavers. A wood lathe would have been ideal if I had one. I tried to imagine how the original finials looked and took a chance on what I felt were the most ornate without being too ostentatious. I believe they do it justice and complete the clock. The original finials might have been a little taller and wider much like the bottom centre finial but Timesavers has a rather limited selection. If I come across something closer in design in the future I can simply pull these out since they are not glued in place.
Support post for middle finial
As you can see above, I have clamped the final bases to the crown and test fit the three top finials which had just been given their first coat of stain. The support post is made of oak and anchors the crown to the case. It will eventually be screwed in place. The post not only attaches the crown to the top of the case but also supports the middle finial base (next photo).
Test fitting the top finial
The lion’s head on the crown has also been nailed in place using its existing holes.
Buttons and decorative nails
The case has an unusual number of decorative nails and buttons. Fortunately most of these decorative trim items came with the clock. Everything you see in the photo above is original save for the upper two floral brass buttons. Years of grime and dirt has been removed from the original decorative buttons, nails and pins.
Crown in place with all three new finials
The clock reflected the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) of showy complicated designs with an emphasis placed on bright and brassy surface decoration
The crown is in position although for the moment it is merely sitting in place. I have added two new decorative nails to the finial bases. Although they are not exactly in the style of the other decorative nails, they are in keeping with the period look of the clock. The two brass buttons on either side of the movement support bracket (above photo) are replacements. The buttons, nails and trim pieces on the top part of the case, are original and cleaned up nicely.
Full view of case
This is a full view of the case with all decorative nails, buttons and trim pieces attached. Below the movement support bracket and on the side columns are two half moon wood pieces (one round decorative pressed wood applique cut in half) that replicate the original detail.
The clock is very garish; some might even call it gaudy. Other clocks I have from this period (1899) are not as pretentious as this one. This look may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it appeals to me. I am sure that it will always be an interesting conversation given its fascinating history. Overall, I would say that the clock accurately reflects the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) with showy complicated designs and an emphasis placed on bright and brassy surface decoration.
Final look with crown attached and movement installed
The above photo shows the case with movement, pendulum, face, brass bezel and hands attached. At this point the clock is about 90% complete. The final steps in this project are securing the door to the frame with hinges purchased from a supplier, attaching the door catches, installing “new” glass, applying a protective top coat finish using Minwax semi gloss wipe-on poly and finding a way to replicate a wood trim insert piece on the left column just above the rectangular brass decorative piece.
Arrow indicating missing trim piece
The clock came without the glass and it obviously must be replaced. I managed to find an old glass window in my area with sufficient “waviness” to replicate the glass at the time. I will have the glass cut and installed by a repair shop locally.
In the final analysis is this a restoration, repair or a replication?
Much of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, coil gong and movement bracket as are the bottom base and top part of the case and the crown, the back board, the vertical columns and most of the decorative trim. What has been replaced is the box frame and the front piece that supports the right and left columns. The previous owner used contemporary materials and techniques to reconstruct the frame and front piece. Although not authentic, I have no real objection because much of what he has done is unseen. I have added or will have added some decorative trim pieces, new glass, 3 new finials, hinges and catches, finial bases, used yellow carpenter’s glue where absolutely necessary, stained the case and will remove the rust on the coil gong.
In the final analysis is this a restoration, repair or a replication? Perhaps all three. However, to the casual observer it is an attractive albeit brash, lovingly restored antique Junghans Crispi wall clock that fell off a wall, in Halifax, Nova Scotia on that fateful day, December 6, 1917.
I hope you enjoyed the series and if you have any comments, ideas or suggestions do not hesitate to leave me a message.
This is what happens when you get a clock in a box. Call it a collection of parts, pieces and dust. This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. There is no serial number on the movement, dating the clock to 1899 or earlier (in 1900 Junghans began to number their movements). To some a box of clock pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.
Where to start?
It was advertised on a local online for-sale site as a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion and I thought, well, that’s an intriguing story! As most Canadians know, the Halifax Explosion was a significant event in Canada 100 years ago.
On the morning of 6 December 1917 the SS Mont Blanc a French cargo ship laden with high explosives and Benzol collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Narrows, a strait connecting the upper Halifax harbour to Bedford Basin. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a large explosion that devastated the Richmond District of Halifax. Approximately 2,000 people were killed by blast, debris, fires and collapsed buildings, and an estimated 9,000 others were injured.
The result was the largest human-made explosion prior to the detonation of the first atomic bombs in 1945. Nearly all structures within an 800-metre (2,600 ft) radius, including the entire community of Richmond, were obliterated. This clock is a witness to that day. In 1918, Halifax sent a Christmas tree to the City of Boston in thanks and remembrance for the help that the Boston Red Cross and the Massachusetts Public Safety Committee provided immediately after the disaster. That tradition carries through to this day.
The case is cleaned up and we are visualizing where the parts go
It appears that the parts have literally sat in a box for the past 100 years.
The blast not only shattered the glass panels but heavily damaged the box frame. It appears that most of the parts have literally sat in a box for the past 100 years. I cannot imagine when the movement last worked, probably ticking its last on that fateful morning in December. Since the box frame was damaged beyond repair following the explosion, the seller, an amateur woodworker, built a new frame made of softwood and oak veneers some 30 years ago. You can see the lighter coloured pieces in the photo below that were never stained and finished. He admits that he knows nothing about clocks and eventually lost interest in the project. I am impressed with his skills since the work on the frame looks solid and well constructed.
Top centre final is missing as well as two other finials
The top centre final is missing, two other finials and some small trim pieces
Why was he letting it go? He said there had been a change in his life and it was time to move on. When I asked him about the history of the clock he said that his wife’s grandparents lived on Princess Place in North End Halifax. Princess Place is further south of the main area of devastation so houses in that area would have sustained heavy structural damage. The clock was blown off the wall by the blast wave. The clock remained in the family all these years, the seller having received it from his wife’s aunt.
I took it home stared at the box for a while trying to decided whether or not I made the right decision. I then set to determine what steps I should take to restore this fine clock. I poked through the box to see what was there and began to itemize the parts, arranging them on the case as best I could and proceeded to clean the case and determine the next steps. I was fortunate to have had someone send me the actual catalog image of the clock which you can see below.
The clock is called the Crispi by Yunghans. Yunghans is a reputable German clock-maker and continues in the watch business to this day. This is what the clock should look like and it will be a excellent guide for restoration. There will be obviously be some subtle differences between my clock and the clock in the catalog when the project is completed but to the casual eye it will look exactly the same.
The Crispi model in the 1902 Junghans catalog
Junghans trademark
Time and count-wheel strike movement
I have ordered the following parts from Timesavers; 3 new finials in the style that best fits the clock, 2 door hinges, 2 door latches and some trim pieces. I will have to build the bases for the finials from scratch. The lower section of an oak spindle will do just fine. There are other trim items that are missing but I will strategically arrange the remaining trim pieces as best I can.
Oak stairway spindle
The best news is that the movement is complete and in working order. The movement ran for a day on a test stand before I stopped it. It needs a very thorough cleaning which will be the next step in this project.
In Part II I will describe cleaning the movement and any issues that may arise as a result of disassembly.
In Part III I will explain the procedures involved in the case restoration once the remaining parts arrive.
The world is changing and sadly, we are living in an increasingly throw-away society. We are taught at an early age that not many things are meant to last and using a throw-away product “guarantees” that the new product will function much better, but does it? I read a news article recently that Norway plans to introduce lower taxes on items that have been renewed or refurbished encouraging its citizens to reuse rather than dispose. Many would consider it a small but important step. It prompted me to write this article.
Here are 9 reasons why you should buy a mechanical clock.
1) Great for the environment. Clocks do not depend on electricity. We all agree that cutting your carbon footprint is always a good thing. Yes, you might think that a quartz clock is great for the environment since it lasts a long time and is both dependable and reliable when the power goes out but what happens when that battery fails. Where does that battery go? The landfill site, of course! Think about it, every part of mechanical clock is fully recyclable, the wood, the metal and the glass.
2) Prompts you to reconsider our disposable society: We are living in an increasingly disposable society. Collecting antique clocks may cause you to think about how you view other things in life, your place as a consumer in our society and how you can do your little bit to further the cause of preserving our environment. In this age of excessive over consumption it is refreshing that some things like a clock can be re-used, repaired and renewed.
One-weight Vienna miniature wall clock, unmarked, circa 1870
3) Great in a power outage; During power outages your mechanical clock will keep on ticking. And tick it will as long as you wind it regularly. And during that power failure you will also notice that the only thing you will hear will be the sound of your ticking clock above the eerie silence of the house.
4) Exercises the brain; Your curiosity about a particular clock might prompt you to research it’s history, or the era that the clock was made. Or, curiosity has led you to maintaining your own clocks. No one can argue that expanding your knowledge of mechanical things, learning new skill-sets, exploring new areas of interest, and learning something from the past is great for healthy brain development.
Learning to bush a clock plate
5) When it breaks it is something you can actually fix: When it breaks you fix it rather than throwing it out which you would likely do for most other items around your home. That means learning new skills when fixing it yourself or helping the local economy by buying repair tools/equipment or searching out a clock repair person (horologist) in your community.
6) An heirloom; pass it on to your children. Clocks are memories by association. Children love receiving clocks from their parents not only because of their collectible and intrinsic value but as a keepsake, a reminder of good times and happy memories. Yes, they are timeless gifts!
Gustav Becker, a retirement gift that I will pass on to my children
7) A soothing sound in a room. Intoxicating to some, annoying to others. Some clocks have beautiful tones and melodies. I always ask guests who stay over whether they mind a clock ticking in their bedroom. A striking or chiming clock might be considered an annoyance when one is not accustomed to the sound. If they suggest stopping the clock I always comply without question. The exception, of course, is the anniversary clock which emits no sound whatsoever. My sister has a number of vintage and antique clocks, she has very little idea how they work but loves the look and the sounds they make.
You would have to have exceptional powers to hear this 400 day clock in any room
8) Gets you out of the house; My wife and I are into antiquing and that means getting in the car and driving around our beautiful province. We get some exercise, discover new places, meet new people, exchange stories and bring back memorable articles including our cherished clocks.
9) A conversation starter; It is a conversation starter; I have two clocks that are over 140 years old and many that are at least 100 years old. Can’t think of a thing to say when company is over? Well, I can tell you fascinating stories about many of my clocks. I often tell stories of our clock hunting adventures throughout Nova Scotia and other parts of Canada and some of the characters we meet along the way.
Go out and buy a mechanical clock! Clocks are not only good for the environment but they are good for the soul.
It is a question many clock owners face when confronted with a nonfunctional antique or vintage clock. Whether it’s a handed-down family heirloom, a vintage find from a flea market, or a sentimental gift, deciding whether to invest in repairs can feel daunting. Beyond its monetary value, a clock’s worth often lies in its history, craftsmanship, or the memories it holds. In this article, we’ll explore key factors to consider—such as the clock’s condition, sentimental significance, and potential repair costs—to help you determine whether restoring your clock is the right choice for you.
1) Sentimental value:
An antique clock passed down through generations often carries more than just the weight of its years; it holds the stories, traditions, and memories of a family or a special person. Such a clock may be destined to continue its legacy with future generations.
Similarly, a clock might hold personal significance as a cherished anniversary present, a thoughtful retirement gift, or a token of friendship. In these cases, the emotional value far outweighs its replacement value, making the clock truly “one of a kind” and irreplaceable. Repairing a clock with this kind of sentimental importance is unquestionably worthwhile. When entrusted to a trusted, professionally certified repair person (horologist), the restoration ensures its continued presence in your life, regardless of its resale value.
For instance, my 114-year-old Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna Regulator, a retirement gift from my wife, holds immense sentimental value. Initially purchased as a project clock on eBay, it required substantial investment to function correctly. Today, it looks stunning and runs beautifully, but repairing it wasn’t about the cost; it was about preserving something irreplaceable. In such cases, the expense of repair becomes less of an investment and more of a necessary operating cost to keep a beloved treasure alive.
Gustav Becker two weight regulator, a retirement gift from my dear wife
I own a Ridgeway grandfather clock that I plan to pass down to my children. It holds deep sentimental value, reminding me of a clock my wife and I nearly purchased over 30 years ago. At the time, we decided not to proceed with the deal but made a promise that we would one day own a grandfather clock like it. That promise was fulfilled in 2012 when we found a Ridgeway Hamilton Country grandfather clock, made in 1996 and in pristine condition. If and when it eventually requires repair, the cost may equal its market value, but to me, the repair would be well worth it. Its sentimental significance far outweighs any monetary considerations.
Ridgeway Hamilton Country Westminster chime tall clock
2) A decorative item: The second type of clock is one with no emotional value—purely a decorative piece that no longer works. Perhaps it was a flea market find you got running for a time, but now it has stopped. In this case, you have two options: let it sit as a decorative item or repair it. When considering repairs, the replacement value of the clock should play a key role in your decision. If the repair costs exceed the cost of replacing the clock, it may make more sense to simply replace it.
However, if you have the tools and skills to repair it yourself, weigh the cost of new parts against your time and effort. For quality clocks, even a full overhaul of the movement may cost less than the clock’s actual value. With common antique clocks, such as American mantel or wall clocks, repair costs often approach or even exceed their market value. For rare or unusual clocks, however, repairs are typically more economical relative to their value, making the investment worthwhile.
3) Collector value: The third category includes clocks with collector value.
If a clock has been purchased as an “investment,” for resale, or simply as part of a collection, the repair costs should not exceed its overall value. For high-grade clocks requiring repair, especially if parts are unavailable, it’s important to carefully consider whether repairing it is worthwhile. When selling a clock, remember that buyers almost always prefer one in working condition, and as original as possible, so minimal repairs may enhance its appeal and value.
For example, I recently acquired a miniature Vienna Regulator. Not only is it in good working order, but it is also in exceptional condition—an impressive feat for a clock that is 145 years old.
One-weight Vienna miniature wall clock, circa 1870
For collectors, determining a clock’s value can be challenging, especially with the significant fluctuations in clock prices in recent years. However, certain types of clocks, such as high-quality French bracket clocks, English lantern clocks, carriage clocks, and jeweler’s regulators, have managed to retain their value. Clocks that are unique, exquisitely crafted, low-production, or one-of-a-kind are typically far more valuable than common, mass-produced examples.
4) Quick re-sale: The final category includes clocks purchased for quick resale.
Many individuals buy and sell antique and vintage clocks purely for profit, often through online marketplaces or specialized sales. When acquiring a clock with the intent to resell, it’s important to factor in both the time and cost of repairs or parts needed to make it marketable. Since buyers almost always prefer a functioning clock, a fully serviced clock is not only more desirable but can also command a higher price than one left unserviced.
This Ingersoll-Waterbury mantel clock (photo above) was purchased at a flea market for a very reasonable price and has since been fully serviced. If I were to sell it, I would need to recover the initial purchase price along with the cost of my time and supplies.
It’s worth noting that many clocks sold on online marketplaces are marketed to unsuspecting buyers. Sellers often claim the clock is in “excellent running condition” while adding a caveat that it “may require adjustment after shipping.” If you’re involved in buying and selling, keep in mind that buyers are often looking for a bargain. Additionally, you may not always achieve the price you believe your clock is worth, so pricing realistically is essential.
Final thoughts
There are many reasons why people acquire antique and vintage clocks. Deciding whether they are worth keeping or repairing ultimately depends on your purpose—whether it’s for profit, sentimental value, or a passion for collecting, as it is for me. Each clock has its own story and value, and understanding your connection to it will guide your decision.
I am not sure where you would have found a Waterbury Arion. It is really too small for a schoolhouse clock or an office clock unless it was a tiny office. Nevertheless, enough of them were made since they are fairly common.
Waterbury Arion octagon short drop without glass and bezel surround
I bought this time-only clock from an older gentleman in Halifax, Nova Scotia.. When he advertised it on a local online for-sale site the photo was so poor that I did not notice that it was missing a bezel and glass so when I arrived at his home we negotiated a slightly lower price.
The oak cabinet is in very good condition as is the reverse painted glass sash. On the other hand, the paper dial is not in great shape but I have decided to leave well enough alone. I think it adds character to the clock. It is a strong runner and keeps very good time. Since it is only 19 inches tall it will fit just about anywhere in a home. A year has gone by and I like the clock so much that I felt it was worth putting on a glass dial and brass bezel.
I measured the clock face and ordered a new bezel and glass. Not having done this before, I thought the glass and bezel would come as one complete assembly or if not complete, a simple way of attaching the glass. What came were 4 brass clips, a hinge without screw holes, the brass bezel, convex glass sized to fit and a 1 1/2 inch long brass tab. Not what I expected!
Original hinge prior to sanding and cleaning
I did not see the need to replace the original hinge as it is in very good condition. I learned that soldering will only hold if the parts to be soldered are cleaned/sanded beforehand and petroleum-based plumber’s flux paste is used, plus I chose to use a propane torch rather than a soldering iron to get as much heat to the parts as I could. Capillary action is required to make the solder flow so there must be sufficient heat.
Although I need more practice soldering I achieved a strong bond. At hand were Robertson screws to secure the hinge to the case which will be replaced with slotted screws at a later date.
New bezel installed with old hinge
Next was getting the glass into the bezel. Here is one of the clips that I soldered into place. There are 4 of them and each one was a minor frustration. If the solder bond is strong enough the clips can be safely bent and I was able to bend these with ease.
Bezel showing a clip soldered into place
The high heat of a torch will discolour the brass. Too much heat and the outside of the brass will also be discoloured. Must be beginners luck, the outside of the bezel is fine.
When pushing the tabs down to anchor the glass I put a small chip in the glass which is not otherwsie noticeable. I did not want to put an anchor slot in the left side of the bezel which is what the 1 1/2 inch tab is for so I decided to trim it and use it as a bottom support for the bezel assembly, just under the number “6”. Not ideal but very functional.
You can just see the support tab under the 6
In the process I also cleaned up the brass around the dial pan to match the new bezel/glass surround. Despite minor frustrations and the need to stop and think as I went along the project is now complete and the clock looks much more better.
Completed bezel project.
A great little project and I learned more about soldering along the way.
Once a year we travel to central Canada and since I am always on the lookout for clocks when I am on the road, they can show up in the strangest of places.
Snider starburst clock found in a boutique hotel in Quebec City
We stopped a a boutique hotel in downtown Quebec City and came across this Snider Starburst clock in the dining area. Many folks do not realize that Snider clocks are distinctively Canadian. According to the Canadian Clock Museum, “the Snider Clock Corporation, was set up in 1950 by Harry Snider, who operated a wholesale jeweler business on Yonge Street at the time. The company name was changed in 1957 to the Snider Clock Mfg Co. Limited. Over a period of more than twenty-five years until 1976 there were hundreds of models of Snider mantel, TV lamp, and wall clocks designed and manufactured in Toronto”.
In the same boutique hotel beside the Snider clock was a wine vending machine. How cool is that!
Wine vending machine
Hugh Gordon tall-case clock circa 1760
This fine looking Scottish Hugh Gordon tall-case clock located in a home near Montreal, was made somewhere between 1760 and 1770. The clock is majestic and certainly defines the room though I wish it were in my room! The cabinet is in excellent condition but the movement requires attention that can only be provided by professional horologist.
Smiths Enfield Art Deco style mantel clock circa 1949
I like the lines of this clock. In fact, I liked it so much that I bought it. This Smiths Enfield Art Deco clock was discovered at this antique shop in Haliburton, Ontario and it has become our newest cottage clock.
Haliburton antique shop
Smiths Enfield shelf clock, on a shelf
Sessions six pillar mantel clock
I am not a fan of pillar clocks although I do have a couple. This six pillar Sessions time and strike seems to be in good shape though the dial may need replacing or restoration. Some would leave it as-is. I am personally not a fan of replacing a dial but if the numbers are unreadable it can be an option.
Unknown mantel clock, possibly French
What is it? Is it French, is it British? Could even be American. There are no markings on the dial face. I am leaning towards French.
Kienzle World Time clock circa 1950
I saw this in an antique store and hummed and hawed over whether I should buy it or not. We were with friends and they loved it. I thought about it, went back a week later, made an offer and now it is sitting on a buffet at home. It works well, runs a full eight days but has a jeweled movement which concerns me. I am not comfortable having this clock run continuously until I know how to service it. Heck I can’t even find a way to open it up to inspect it. For the moment I will run it only on special occasions until my skill level improves enough to allow me to investigate further.
Possibly Ansonia or another French mantel clock
The above clock, another find in an antique store is possibly French or American. I believe Ansonia made clocks very similar to this. I am going to call it an Ansonia.
Collection of beehive, six pillar Seth Thomas and Waterbury wall clock
A Seth Thomas Beehive and a Waterbury time and strike wall clock. Both are in very good condition but a tad on the pricey side.
My wife took a quick cell phone shot of this clock in another antique shop. Not the best image.
Kienzle Winchester Chime
It is a Kienzle 3-train German clock and no matter how hard I look I cannot find another like it. Could be a one-of. If you know anything about it please drop me a line.
That’s about it. I found another tall-case clock in a restaurant in Quebec City. It looked like a combination of several clocks although the cabinet was nice. So, somebody messed with it. Should have taken a photo!
I do not mean marriage in the traditional sense. In the clock world a marriage is defined as a bringing together of parts to make a complete functioning clock. Among clock circles it is generally accepted that if a clock has significant parts from another source, such as a movement, pendulum, weights, put into a different though correct case it is considered a marriage.
Gustav Becker 2-weight regulator
If it has a large number of parts from a variety of sources, even parts not original to the period or correct to the clock it might be considered something else. See my previous post for a discussion on Frankenclocks.
I am in a bit of a quandary.
I have written a number of blog posts concerning a Gustav Becker two-weight regulator clock that I bought in February. I am fascinated by what I have learned about this clock but the journey has been both enlightening and frustrating as I attempt to get it to run reliably.
I purchased it as a project clock and knew that I would have to source parts that were missing from the movement which the seller disclosed at the time of sale. I decided to buy another GB movement. About a month after I bought the clock my search on EBay bore fruit. The movement I found (from Poland!) was a Braunau movement which is the same factory but newer by 16 years (1902 versus 1918). It was an excellent fit for my clock project since up to 90% of the parts are interchangeable and the price was very reasonable.
Clock face with replacement VR hands
My intent was to part out the 1918 movement to supply the 1902 movement with the parts I needed such as two springs, a snail / star wheel, hammer assembly and gathering pallet. While I took what I could from the 1918 movement to get the original movement running I had mixed success. It ran well for a while and then it would stop and lock up for no apparent reason. It stopped several times. Each time I took it apart, inspected the parts I thought might be problematic but found nothing amiss. After I dis-assembled, cleaned and oiled the movement each time I had it out, I returned the movement to it’s case and the clock would run for a while, a couple of weeks, a couple of days, hours perhaps before it would just stop abruptly. I am sure that if I investigated further I would find a slightly bent pivot, worn pinion or problematic gear tooth somewhere. Now for plan B.
Weights for Regulator clock
I thought, well I do have the 1918 movement, why not switch them and see what happens. I returned all the parts such as star wheel / snail, springs, hammer assembly etc. from the 1902 movement to the 1918 movement and hoped that the 1918 movement once installed in the case would run and run well. I was initially concerned that the newer movement, a P27 requiring what I thought was a longer pendulum would not fit the case case but it seems to be sized perfectly. It is a mystery to me how pendulums are measured. The movement has now been in the case for the last fourteen days and it is not only running well but keeping excellent time.
The question remains, should I leave the 1918 movement in the case since it is now running well? Although it is the “correct” movement though not the original one, could the clock now be considered a “marriage”? The answer is, yes!
If I were to sell the clock I would disclose that the movement is not original to the case which would certainly affect its overall value. I could make the deal more attractive by providing the original movement as part of the sale considering that it is repairable, if I sold it! These situations occur quite often in the world of EBay et al when the clock seller chooses not to give too much detail in their description of the item when they know some parts are not original. Furthermore, from a buyers perspective there is no guarantee that the clock they are looking at is 100% original.
Gustav Becker clock occupying a prominent location in the living room
This is my first marriage. Would I do it again? If faced with similar circumstances in the future I would probably do the same thing but it has also taught me to be cautious with any potential clock purchase by asking key questions prior to any decision.
Of course this clock is not for sale. I think the clock looks outstanding on my living room wall.
Let me know if you have you performed any marriages or if you think it is an ethical practice?
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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