Re-Bushing, Reassembly & Testing of a Gustav Becker Regulator

This two-weightGustav Becker regulator wall clock, purchased in 2016 as a “project clock,” proved early on to be more challenging than I thought. This is the third and final post in this series. For the story behind this clock and an analysis of the steps taken so far, the first and the second posts can be found here and here.

After repeated but unsuccessful attempts to source correct replacement parts, the original movement was ultimately replaced with a complete 1918 P27 movement. That decision proved sound. The replacement movement has run reliably for more than nine years, making the recent strike issues described here less a surprise and more a predictable outcome of a long service interval.

The current issue is intermittent stopping during the warning phase, with the warning lever binding against the stop-wheel pin. In the absence of obvious breakage or damage, and given the movement’s extended service interval, the symptoms suggest accumulated wear rather than sudden mechanical failure.

With that diagnosis in mind, let’s now shift to systematic bushing work, careful reassembly, and methodical testing of the movement.

Polishing Bushings

Polishing the pivots prior to addressing pivot hole wear is a critical step, since even minor surface roughness can accelerate wear in otherwise sound bushings. Ensuring the pivots are smooth and true allows any remaining issues to be correctly attributed to pivot hole wear rather than the pivots themselves.

Taig lathe with 1/4 hp motor — _{Taig metal lathe}

The pivots were inspected and polished using my Taig metal lathe (above). An emery board was used to clean and polish each individual pivot. No pivot wear was expected, and none was found.

Bushing Work

The next step is addressing wear, particularly on the strike side. Pivots in this movement are significantly smaller than those found in mass-marketed American movements. As a result, some of the pivot holes measure only 0.6 to 0.7 mm, requiring small 2 mm diameter Bergeron bushings.

This demands a high level of precision when drilling the plates, as accurate placement is critical. Off by a fraction of a millimeter, and the wheels will not mesh correctly. Two new back-plate bushings were installed on the second and third wheel pivot holes.

After checking the action of the wheels, I debated whether or not to include the fourth wheel pivot hole, which did not look as worn as the other two. I decided not to at this point. Interestingly, both replaced bushings showed punch marks adjacent to the pivot holes, a previous attempt to reduce pivot hole wear by closing them. Punching pivot holes might have been an acceptable practice years ago, but not today.

Reassembly

Working with small pivots presents its own set of challenges. There is always the risk of a bent pivot. Now, it could have been me, or it might have been there for quite some time, but I noticed a slightly bent pivot on the flywheel. Straightening a bent pivot is not for the weak of heart. A broken pivot can be a catastrophe.

Can it be fixed? Yes — and I have done pivot work in the past — but it’s something best avoided whenever possible. I have a staking tool specifically for correcting bent pivots, and I did my best to straighten it. I also have the original movement, so I could have used the fly from that movement if my minor repair had gone sideways.

Other than the minor hiccup described above, assembly went as planned.

Have I ever left a part out? More than once. I’ve put everything together only to discover the hammer arbor looking up at me as the last part in the bin, practically saying, “You forgot me.” Not this time.

Aside from the winding drums, there are only 6 wheels and the fly. The strike levers are on the outside of the front plate. Below the large hour wheel on the front plate are two smaller gears that must be timed. Curiously, there are timing marks on the bottom of the gears, so, using a black marker, I indicated the timing marks on the top of the wheel. This aligns the movement for striking at the 12 o’clock position.

Otherwise, the stop wheel should be very close to 12 o’clock, and the gathering pallet is positioned to clear the rack. Next come the various levers and the taper pins to keep them in place.

Testing

I have five testing stands, but none that accommodate a Vienna Regulator, so the movement was returned to the case for testing. During the testing period, I did not attach the hands or the dial.

With the striking issues finally sorted out, the clock is now running as it should — steady, reliable, and doing exactly what it was meant to do. As of this writing, it is on its second 8-day cycle and keeping time within a few seconds per hour.

Final thoughts

It now seems likely that wear on the striking side lay at the heart of the problem, and those issues have finally been addressed. As with any clock repair, time itself will be the true judge, but for the moment, all signs are encouraging. With a little luck, it will settle in and run contentedly for many years to come.

This has always been one of my favourite clocks in the collection and one that I keep running daily, so it was genuinely disheartening to see it silent for the past few months. I tried every reasonable adjustment to coax it back to life without dismantling the movement, but in the end, there was no substitute for proper disassembly and servicing. Sometimes a clock simply tells you when it is time to do things the right way.

I will let it run through another full eight-day cycle, make any final adjustments that may be needed, and then refit the dial and hands — hopefully marking the return of a familiar and welcome presence in the room.

A Return to the Bench: Wear-Related Strike Problems in a Gustav Becker P27

I wrote recently about a two-weight Gustav Becker regulator wall clock that my wife bought for me in 2016. It was sold as a “project clock.” While the case presented its own challenges, the real difficulties lay in the movement.

At the time, I was unfamiliar with Gustav Becker movements and only gradually realized that several key components were missing, likely harvested by a previous owner. One such part was the star wheel—an early lesson in the fact that Gustav Becker made design changes over time, and that parts are not always interchangeable.

After unsuccessfully attempting to source correct replacement parts, I ultimately replaced the original 1902 movement with a complete 1918 P27 movement. That movement has run reliably for more than nine years, making the recent strike failure described here not unexpected.

The clock began stopping intermittently during the warning phase, with the warning lever appearing to bind at the stop-wheel pin. Given the movement’s long service interval and the absence of obvious damage, the symptoms point toward accumulated wear rather than a sudden component failure.

The movement is now fully disassembled and awaiting the next steps. In this blog article, the focus will be on cleaning and initial inspection for wear. In a post to follow, I will document bushing work, reassembly, and testing required to restore reliable strike operation before returning the movement to the case.

When I first received the replacement movement, I inspected it and found everything to be in good order, with no appreciable wear. I cleaned the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner; however, at the time, I did not completely disassemble the winding drums, as I believed there was no need to do so. On this occasion, the winding drums must be disassembled, as the cables are becoming frayed just outside the drum, requiring access to the knotted ends.

_{Winding drum with gear wheel and spring removed}

I inspected the braided cables and, rather than replace them, decided to reuse them. Although cutting off the knot at the barrel end will shorten the cables slightly, re-knotting the hook ends (the bottom of the movement) will restore them to their original length, so the run time should not be affected.

_{Mixing up winding drum parts might not be an issue, but safer to separate them}

In the ultrasonic, I kept the winding drum parts separate. They may be interchangeable, but at this point, I’m not taking any chances. Interestingly, over a dozen parts make up each drum, most of which were taken apart for cleaning. I saw no need to disassemble the click spring, however. Once all the parts are out of the ultrasonic and dried thoroughly, the first step is to reassemble the winding drums and their cables, and set them aside for now.

Now that the movement is clean and the pivot holes have been pegged, it is time to turn our attention to the action of the gears. I first assembled and tested the time side and could find no perceptible wear. It’s a pretty simple setup with only 3 wheels: the second larger wheel, the third wheel, and the escape wheel. There are also 3 wheels on the strike side ending with the fly/governor. On the strike side, I can find some lateral movement of the pivots on the count wheel front and back plate, and the stop wheel, back, and possibly the front plate.

With the inspection complete, attention turned to the strike side, where the expected story revealed itself. Wear at several pivot holes was evident, the kind of wear you expect to find in a P27 movement that has been doing its job for well over a century. So, there is work to be done.

Did I wait too long? Yes, perhaps 9 years is a bit too long an interval between servicing points. None of it was alarming, but it does help explain some of the strike-related issues observed earlier. Addressing these worn areas will be an important next step, not only to improve performance but to give the strike train the freedom and reliability it needs for years to come.

Ten Years Later: An Odd Strike Issue in a Gustav Becker P27 Movement

In 2016, my wife gifted me a two-weight Gustav Becker regulator wall clock. It was a much-appreciated gift, and I spent many hours restoring it, as it had been sold as a “project clock.” The case certainly had its issues, but the most challenging problems lay in the movement itself.

At the time, I was not familiar with Gustav Becker movements, and it did not immediately occur to me that several key components were missing—almost as if a previous owner had harvested parts for another clock. One example was the absence of the star wheel. I contacted the seller, who kindly sent several replacement parts, including a star wheel. Unfortunately, it did not fit.

_{Missing star wheel, which should be just below the minute wheel}

It was then that I learned Gustav Becker had made design changes to these movements over time, meaning that not all parts are interchangeable. It appears the star wheel was sourced from a later model.

That led me to source a replacement movement, which I was able to obtain through an eBay seller. The price was more reasonable than I expected, and the movement arrived intact. Initially, I thought I could harvest parts from it for the original movement; however, as I had already learned with the star wheel, some parts did not fit.

Using replacement parts in antique clocks presents a number of challenges beyond simple fit and function. Even when parts appear correct, subtle differences in design, dimensions, or period manufacturing can affect performance and reliability.

From a collector’s perspective, non-original or mismatched components may also impact a clock’s historical authenticity and, in some cases, its market value. For the restorer, this often requires balancing mechanical integrity and long-term usability against the desire to preserve originality as much as possible. Of course, to the casual observer, the clock appears original.

I ultimately decided to abandon the 1902 movement and use the 1918 P27 one instead. The 1918 movement has been running flawlessly for the past 9 plus year and that is why the issue I am describing in this post surprises me. Or, should it!

Most people would be inclined to dismiss the problem by simply restarting the clock, which is what I initially did, but several hours later, the clock stopped again.

The problem is this: the warning lever, which drops into the warning wheel to stop the strike in warning, seems to freeze intermittently. For proper function, the strike release lever is lifted by the minute wheel pin to release the warning lever. I believe the issue occurs at the stop-wheel pin, where it appears to bind or stick. When I manually lift the warning lever to release the stop wheel, the strike train will run for a while, then stick again.

When I disassembled the movement, I checked for broken or bent teeth, bent pins, and the general condition of the pivots. Everything appeared to look good. However, given that the clock has been running for a long period, the issue now seems more consistent with wear than with a sudden component failure.

One issue could be that excess endshake may be allowing the stop wheel to move fore and aft, altering how the stop pin engages the warning lever. Additionally, many weight-driven warning levers rely purely on gravity for return; any increase in friction can cause the lever to hesitate or become caught on the edge of the pin. For these reasons, I believe this is a general wear issue rather than a broken or failed component.

By way of comparison, the average American-made movement produced a century ago could often continue to run reasonably well despite significant wear, whereas German movements—built with tiny pivots and very close tolerances—tend to be far more sensitive to wear, dirt, and minor loss of power. This difference should perhaps not be unexpected.

The movement is currently disassembled and, after many years of service, likely requires bushing work.

In short, the symptoms point to accumulated wear rather than a specific failed part. The movement will therefore receive full bushing work where needed, followed by a thorough cleaning, reassembly, and testing on the stand. Only once the strike operates consistently and reliably under full weight will the movement be returned to the case.

February 9, 2026 3

A.G.U. Lenzkirch: Rare Opportunity to Own a Historic Clock Trademark

_Over the years, I’ve explored countless stories tied to the world of horology, but few carry the prestige, legacy, and craftsmanship of A.G.U. Lenzkirch, one of the oldest and most respected German clockmaking brands. While there is much more to say about this iconic name, I’ve prepared a brief summary—based on information provided by brand owner Jens of the Jens German Company—highlighting its rich history and significance in the world of fine clockmaking.

In an era when heritage brands are being revived and newly appreciated, the A.G.U. Lenzkirch trademark is now available for purchase. For those with vision—whether launching a new line of precision clocks or watches, honoring the legacy of Black Forest clockmakers, or building a collection rooted in history—this is a rare opportunity to own a name synonymous with excellence.

Serious offers are welcome. While past estimates placed the brand’s value between EUR 50,000 and EUR 80,000, Jens believes a more reasonable and fair offer can be negotiated. Naturally, any transfer of ownership must be completed formally through a lawyer or notary.

If you’re interested in acquiring this historic trademark, feel free to reach out with your offer. You can contact Jens through me. Perhaps, like me, you’ll recognize the potential to breathe new life into a name that once set the standard for German clockmaking.

This is a unique opportunity—one that doesn’t come around often.

The Lenzkirch Story

Aktiengesellschaft für Uhrenfabrikation Lenzkirch (Public Company for Lenzkirch) was founded in 1851 in the village of Lenzkirch in Baden by Eduard Hauser, who had trained in France and Switzerland. The company carried on the tradition of Black Forest clockmakers. Hauser, the son of a teacher, was born on August 21, 1825, and gained experience building music boxes under Johann George Schopperle. During this period, he developed skills in metalworking, precision mechanics, musical instrument design, and even music composition.

_{A catalog selection of regulator clocks}

The firm became renowned for producing exceptionally fine regulators. Well into the 1920s, Lenzkirch was still crafting precision movements with compensated pendulums. Junghans eventually acquired the company, and the factory closed in 1932, a casualty of the collapsed wall regulator market.

Company History

The Beginning of a Clock Empire

Aktiengesellschaft für Uhrenfabrikation in Lenzkirch was the oldest clock factory among the Black Forest manufacturers. Founded by clockmaker Eduard Hauser and Ignaz Schopperle, a mechanical organ maker, the company began in 1849 in a modest workshop producing clock parts. These were sent to clockmakers for final assembly, a shift from the traditional practice where clockmakers produced every part by hand.

Hauser and Schopperle aimed to introduce “serial assembly,” delivering compact, machined, and pre-assembled clock movements to clockmakers. This innovation marked a turning point in horological manufacturing.

The Growth of the Company

Hauser soon employed 14 workers using hand-driven flywheel lathes and other tools. He invested heavily in machinery, draining much of his capital, and faced payroll and operational expenses without a robust marketing network or distribution plan. Growth was slow.

On August 31, 1851, Hauser approached Franz Joseph Faller, Joseph Wiest, Nikolaus Rogg, and the brothers Johann Nikolaus and Paul Tritscheller. Together, they officially formed Aktiengesellschaft für Uhrenfabrikation in Lenzkirch. In 1865, their brother Albert Tritscheller joined to study international clockmaking practices. With new financial support and strong management, Lenzkirch flourished. Powered by two steam engines and equipped with a gold and silver plating shop and a tool-and-die workshop, the company achieved remarkable technical excellence. Secrecy was paramount—Hauser famously covered machinery with linen sheets to protect trade secrets from visitors.

_{Lenzkirch patent, 1881 for a gong support bracket}

Delivering Clocks Becomes a Challenge

Eventually, Lenzkirch began full in-house movement assembly, with wooden cases imported and finished at the factory. The company’s reputation soared with the introduction of its German regulator, which won numerous awards in 1860–61. The Viennese-style wall regulator also gained popularity. The firm invested in R&D to develop durable mainsprings, both for its own clocks and others.

However, transporting the growing volume of finished clocks became a major obstacle. Franz Joseph Faller, fluent in several languages, launched an aggressive marketing and distribution campaign. He circulated catalogs, sent representatives to international expos, and opened offices in Florence and Venice. But operations remained based in the Black Forest.

After years of lobbying, Faller secured a railway extension to Lenzkirch, and on May 21, 1887, the first train arrived. Tragically, during the celebration, Faller suffered a fatal stroke moments after delivering the welcoming speech.

The Rise and Fall of Lenzkirch

For over 80 years, the Lenzkirch Clock Factory employed thousands who took pride in its renowned craftsmanship. At its peak, the factory had over 600 workers and contributed to making Lenzkirch a wealthy town synonymous with high-quality Black Forest clocks.

Lenzkirch was also a pioneer in employee benefits. In 1858, it began offering medical insurance and a disaster relief fund. Despite economic downturns and the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, the company maintained its commitment to quality.

Yet competition grew. New firms with modern equipment and better capital reserves began to outpace Lenzkirch. The company, still operating with mid-19th-century equipment, struggled to adapt. In 1928, the Junghans brothers proposed a merger. The factory was dissolved in August 1929 and functioned as a Junghans satellite until 1932, before being sold to a beauty salon equipment manufacturer in 1933.

Even today, Lenzkirch clocks remain highly collectible. Many are listed on eBay and through antique dealers and auction houses worldwide. Known for their quality and precision, Lenzkirch clocks continue to capture the attention of horology enthusiasts. The company ultimately sold over 1,000,000 clocks, with each movement stamped on the back as a testament to its legacy.

Disclaimer | My Role in the Sale

If you have further questions concerning the sale, I can pass them on to Jens.

As I mentioned, if you’re interested in acquiring this historic trademark, feel free to reach out with your offer.

However, I want to make it clear that I have no personal interest in profiting from the sale of this brand. As I’ve mentioned to Jens, my role here is simply to help him amplify this information and share it with readers of this blog. There may be someone among you, or someone you know, who would be genuinely interested in acquiring and preserving this prestigious and historic clock brand.

June 27, 2025 1

My Antique Wall Clock Collection: A Quick YouTube Tour

Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.

My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.

_{19 wall clocks in my collection}

My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.

Check out my Pequegnat clock video as well.

March 25, 2025 7

The Quirky Charm of a Vienna Regulator Clock

In this post, I describe an unusual issue when relocating my mini Vienna Regulator clock. Out of all my clocks, this one tends to be the most sensitive when I move it to a different location in my home. I’ve previously shared my experiences with this clock because it’s not the first time I’ve encountered issues.

Exploring a brief history of Vienna Regulators provides insight into why this clock is a significant milestone in horological evolution.

The Vienna Regulator clock, also known as the Vienna wall clock, is a type of precision pendulum clock that originated in Vienna, Austria.

The style and craftsmanship of Vienna Regulator clocks are often associated with exceptional quality and precision.

The development of the Vienna Regulator clock was influenced by several factors. One of the key factors was the rising demand for accurate timekeeping during the Industrial Revolution. Vienna, as a center of craftsmanship and technological innovation, played a vital role in meeting this demand.

Vienna regulators are distinctive and typically have a slender wooden case, which houses the pendulum and the clock mechanism. This design allowed for a longer pendulum, resulting in greater accuracy. The movement was typically attached to a frame on the backboard of the case by a keyhole design which allowed the movement to be lifted and removed from the case for servicing. The pendulum was often enclosed in a glass door or window, allowing the movement to be admired from the front and side panels while protecting it from dust.

The cases, made of various types of wood such as walnut, oak, or mahogany, were often finely crafted with decorative inlays, carvings, or veneers. The clocks featured a white enamel or porcelain dial, usually adorned with Roman numerals and ornate hands.

The movement of the Vienna Regulator clock was powered by weights suspended on cables or cords. The weights (up to three) were typically wound up once a week, providing the necessary power for the clock to run accurately. While the majority of these clocks were designed to operate as 8-day runners, some were specifically engineered to run for 30 days and longer.

During the 19th century, the Vienna Regulator clock underwent several design changes. The earlier models, known as “Vienna Regulators of the Biedermeier period,” were characterized by a simpler and more classical style. Later models, influenced by the emerging Victorian and Rococo revival styles, featured more elaborate ornamentation and decorative elements.

While the popularity of the Vienna Regulator clock declined in the early 20th century with the advent of more modern clocks, it remains valued by collectors and enthusiasts today.

It’s also worth noting that the term “Vienna Regulator” typically denotes a clock style commonly manufactured in Germany and Austria from approximately 1804 to the end of the 19th century, even if it wasn’t necessarily crafted in Vienna.

But let’s go on.

What is making this clock stop?

During an unusually cold winter day, a substantial plumbing problem caused significant leakage from a ceiling pipe in our family room. To address the damage, we had to replace the pipes and patch the ceiling. During the repairs, we decided to refresh the room’s decor, taking the opportunity to make a few changes. As part of the update, we moved our Vienna Regulator clock from upstairs to the family room to showcase its elegance.

After running flawlessly for a few days, the clock stopped. I checked the clock’s beat, adjusted it, and confirmed its proper vertical orientation. This resulted in the clock running for a few hours before encountering another stoppage.

Suspecting a tangled cable issue which could cause a loss of power to the movement, I took the movement out of its case and carefully rewound the cable onto its take-up reel but this did not resolve the issue.

Could the problem be related to wear? I removed the movement from its case and disassembled it, inspecting for any signs of wear including bent arbors, or damaged or worn teeth. However, I found no such issues. In fact, the movement looked very clean, and the oil in the pivots appeared to be in excellent condition.

After reinstalling the movement into its case and reattaching the weight and pendulum, I noticed a slight wobble in the pendulum, that was not visible from afar.

Out comes the movement which consisted of removing the weight and unhooking it from the frame posts. Upon reexamining the movement, everything appeared to be in proper order. In most clock movements the suspension spring is physically attached to the movement. In clocks of this type, the pendulum rod is attached by the suspension spring to the backboard frame, and there could be a tendency to overlook inspecting the suspension spring as the cause of the stoppage.

This time, the problem was identified as a slightly kinked suspension spring. Lacking a spare, instead of replacing it, I removed the pendulum assembly from its case and used the shaft section of a small screwdriver to smooth out the kink. A temporary fix, to be sure, till I source the correct spring for this clock.

Some clocks can be temperamental and a clock that works fine in one location may not work in another. However, it would appear that moving the clock from one location to another caused a deformity in the suspension spring. So, the fault was mine.

_{After smoothing out the suspension spring it runs better}

My other Vienna Regulator keeps ticking without a hitch, unlike this clock which tends to act up when moved. It’s running fine now and will stay at its new location which is back upstairs.

December 1, 2023

German Box Clocks: A Journey into Clockmaking History

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models

The popularity of Vienna Regulator clocks began to wane towards the early part of the 20th century. The more modern and less ornate design of the box clock appealed to changing tastes and preferences after World War I, leading to the gradual replacement of Vienna Regulators with box clocks. The box clock design stood the test of time, enduring for over 30 years.

_{Gustav Becker weight-driven Vienna Regulator}

The German “box clock” is a type of antique clock that became popular in the early 20th century, particularly in the period following World War I. These clocks are sometimes also referred to as “box wall clocks” or “wall box clocks” due to their design and placement on walls.

German "box" clock by Mauthe — _{German box clock by Mauthe}

Key features and characteristics of German box clocks are its design and appearance since the box clock represents a departure from the designs of the Vienna Regulator clocks. Instead, box clocks embraced a more minimalist and utilitarian design. They typically have a simple rectangular or square wooden case with clean lines, a simple crown, glazed features and often lack the intricate carvings and embellishments seen in earlier clock styles.

Numerous German manufacturers, such as Mauthe, Gustav Becker, The Hamburg American Clock Company, Muller, Hermle, and Kienzle, were involved in the design and construction of box clocks.

Box clocks employ a weight-driven mechanical movement or a spring-driven movement. For the cost conscious, spring-driven box clocks were within the budget of most households.

Whether the movements use weights or springs to power the clock’s operation, they require periodic winding to keep accurate time. The run times were typically 8 days though some were made to run for 14 days. The movement is always housed within a wooden case and is typically viewable through glazed side ports.

_{Kienzle time and strike box with round top}

The clock dials on box clocks are typically white or silvered dials with either Arabic or Roman numerals to indicate the hours. Most box clocks have simple black spear or spade hands for better contrast and easy readability.

$299 Mauthe wall clock — _{Mauthe box clock}

A prominent feature of box clocks is the pendulum, which might be quite plain or ornate, which swings beneath the clock’s dial and is visible thorough a bevelled glass panel. The pendulum’s length is adjusted to regulate the clock’s timekeeping accuracy.

Some box clocks include a chime feature that makes a musical tone on the quarter hour while other have a strike feature that rings the hour or half-hour. A clock face with three winding arbours signifies a chiming clock, whereas a clock with two winding points indicates a striking clock. This adds a pleasant sound to mark the passing of time.

The vast majority of box clocks were produced in Germany. German clock-makers were renowned for their precision and craftsmanship, making Germany a hub for clock manufacturing during that era.

Box clocks were widely used in homes, offices, schools, and other public spaces. Their minimalist design made them versatile and suitable for various interior styles.

_{Daniel Dakota box clock from the 1960s}

Caution should be exercised against copies. In the 1960s, the Chinese reintroduced the box clock design and inundated the market with numerous 31-day clocks, sold under various names, with Daniel Dakota being the most widely recognized brand. However, these clocks did not match the quality and craftsmanship of the traditional German box clocks. During the same vintage period, certain Korean and Japanese clocks demonstrated acceptable quality standards but most are to be avoided.

Today, German box clocks are sought after by collectors and antique enthusiasts for their historical significance, craftsmanship, and unique design. They serve as reminders of a bygone era and continue to captivate people with their appeal.

If you are interested in acquiring a box clock, it’s essential to verify its authenticity and condition, as well as consult with experts or appraisers to ensure its value and authenticity.

August 8, 2023

If I had to take one antique clock from a “burning house” which one would it be

We have been facing a challenging spring here in Nova Scotia, as the threat of wildfires has been looming over us.

In May 2023, our community in Nova Scotia has been devastated by the occurrence of two uncontrolled wildfires. The dire consequences of these fires include the evacuation of thousands of individuals and the tragic loss of hundreds of homes.

Residing in a rural area with our house nestled amidst beautiful trees, we can’t help but have a constant awareness of the potential for fire.

While it’s crucial to prioritize safety and well-being in emergency situations, it’s understandable that certain personal belongings/items hold significant value to us. They include ID, cell phones, credit cards, vehicle titles, keys, flashlights, passports, a portable hard drive containing all personal photos, and essential clothing but if I find myself with a moment to select just one antique clock during a speedy evacuation what would it be?

My wife prompted this discussion when she asked, “What clock would you take?

Selecting a specific antique clock to save from a “burning house” is a subjective decision based on personal preferences, sentimental value, and the uniqueness of each clock. However, here are a few factors I might consider when making my decision:

I might choose a clock that holds special meaning to me or my family. It could be a clock that has been passed down through generations or one that has sentimental value attached to it.
I would consider the rarity and historical significance of the clock in question. If a clock’s origins is significant or it is known for its craftsmanship or historical importance, I might prioritize saving such a clock.
If one clock is in better condition or has the potential for easier restoration, it might be a good choice to save.

Here are 5 clocks that would be high on my list and the reasons why. But in the end, I could only take one!

Pequegnat Canadian Time

I have had this clock for a number of years, and have serviced it twice. The clock’s case, on the other hand, has remained untouched and remains in exceptional condition. This particular clock holds a special place in my collection as one of the earliest examples of the eight Pequegnat clocks I own. It spent its life in the waiting area of a train station located 1/2 drive from my home.

Sawin Banjo Clock

Dating back to the 1840s, this exceptional timepiece exemplifies the pinnacle of meticulous movement craftsmanship. While the case and movement do not bear any explicit “Sawin” markings, various indicators strongly suggest that it was crafted by John Sawin himself or one of his associates or apprentices. Notably, this clock stands out for its straightforward construction, lacking side rails or ornate embellishments such as painted tablets or gilt decorations. It is precisely this simplicity in design that captivates me, as it allows the clock’s elegance and craftsmanship to take center stage.

Junghans Crispis time and strike wall clock

This clock underwent a comprehensive restoration process involving countless hours of work, including disassembling, creating new components, servicing the movement, and refinishing the case. The restoration required a significant amount of labor and attention to detail. The clock holds a captivating story as it was rescued from a house that endured severe destruction during the Halifax Explosion in 1917.

Halifax Explosion – December 6, 1917

Single-weight Vienna Regulator

The sheer beauty of this clock makes it incredibly challenging to part with. Its design epitomizes the finest qualities of the 1880s Vienna style. Unlike the later Viennese clocks, which often leaned towards ornate and ostentatious features, the clocks from this particular period maintain their elegance and embrace a more refined and understated aesthetic. The clock’s classic, simple lines are a testament to the enduring allure of the Vienna style during that era.

Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time

It is quite possible that this clock was located in a train station or some other commercial setting, given its robust construction and durability designed to withstand potential mistreatment. Additionally, its timeless design features are reminiscent of the classic lines commonly associated with the 1920s era. The clock’s sturdy build and elegant aesthetics perfectly capture the spirit of that period, adding to its overall charm and appeal.

E. Ingraham Huron

This clock resided in the charming vicinity of Bridgewater, Nova Scotia. It came into our possession during a challenging period for a couple undergoing a difficult separation, as sentimental items often find their way to new homes in such circumstances. Among the clocks in my collection, this one stands out as one of the few that underwent professional servicing, ensuring its optimal functionality. Notably, this clock holds a relatively rare status, being produced by the E. Ingraham Clock Co. during the brief span of two years, between 1878 and 1880.

And now it boils down to the one to choose?

Although I hold great admiration for all of these clocks, if I were constrained by space and could only choose a single one to take with me, it would have to be the Junghans Crispi. As mentioned earlier, this clock embodies the qualities that I value, such as its exceptional craftsmanship and timeless appeal. Its unique design, combined with the renowned Junghans brand, makes it a standout choice in the collection. Given the limited space, the Junghans Crispi would be the clock I couldn’t bear to leave behind, as it represents the epitome of my preferences and holds a special place in my heart.

June 16, 2023

An unusual issue with a Vienna Regulator time-only clock

In this post, I describe an unusual issue when relocating my mini Vienna Regulator clock. But first some background information on Vienna Regulators.

The Vienna Regulator clock, also known as the Vienna wall clock, is a type of precision pendulum clock that originated in Vienna, Austria, in the late 18th century.

_{One-weight Vienna Regulator, unknown maker, C.1875}

They typically had a slender wooden case, which housed the pendulum and the clock mechanism. This design allowed for a longer pendulum, resulting in greater accuracy. The pendulum was often enclosed in a glass door or window, allowing the movement to be admired from the side panels while protecting it from dust.

The style and craftsmanship of Vienna Regulator clocks are often associated with exceptional quality and precision.

While the popularity of the Vienna Regulator clock declined in the early 20th century with the advent of more modern timekeeping devices, it remains highly valued by collectors and enthusiasts today.

The issue

During an unseasonably warm winter, we unexpectedly experienced a sudden drop in temperature, causing a significant plumbing issue that led to a major leak of the pipes in the ceiling of our family room on the first floor of our two-story home. The extent of the damage necessitated replacing the pipes and removing and replacing the gyprock ceiling. While the repairs were underway, we took the opportunity to revamp the room’s decor and make a few changes, including relocating some clocks to that area.

Some clocks can be temperamental and a clock that works fine in one location may not work at all in another. Such was the case of a miniature Vienna Regulator that once moved from an upstairs bedroom refused to run in the family room.

Suspecting a tangled cable issue the result of which would rob power to the movement, I took the movement out of its case and carefully rewound the cable onto its take-up reel. No change.

Could it be a wear issue? I proceeded to carefully remove the movement from its case and meticulously disassembled it, thoroughly inspecting for any signs of bent arbors, or damaged or worn teeth. However, to my surprise, I found no such issues. In fact, the movement was remarkably well-preserved, and the oil in the pivots appeared to be in excellent condition.

After carefully reinstalling the movement into its case and reattaching the weight and pendulum, I observed an interesting issue. I noticed that the bottom of the case protruded farther out than the top, indicating that the wall was not perfectly vertical. Suspecting a connection between this misalignment and the movement’s inability to run, I decided to investigate further.

I adjusted the stabilizers, one on each side, stepping them back slightly, and to my surprise, I discovered the root cause. The escapement pallets, responsible for regulating the movement, were not engaging with the escape wheel correctly. This misalignment was likely the reason for the movement’s previous failure to function properly. It also made me realize that the wall where the clock was previously located was not vertically level.

While achieving horizontal leveling is undoubtedly crucial, it is important that vertical leveling can make a significant difference when it comes to the functionality of a clock. In fact, proper vertical alignment can be the determining factor between a clock that runs smoothly and one that fails to operate at all.

At the end of the day the exercise was worthwhile as it allowed me the clean the movement, reoil the pivots, and polish the brass pendulum and weight.

June 13, 2023

The State of the Antique and Vintage Clock Market: Buy or Sell in 2023?

will antique and vintage clock prices go up or down in 2023? Is this the time to buy or sell? Allow me to share my insights and observations.

According to the United States Government, the term “antique” is reserved for items that are over a century old. Webster’s dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Wikipedia defines antiques as applying to objects at least 100 years old.

On the other hand “vintage”, according to most sources, is a period that is less than 100 years but more than 30 years. Definitions of vintage may vary. In the jewelry business, for instance, vintage may be considered as anything 10 to 20 or more years.

There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects, there is a price range that most would consider reasonable. Similar to many other items, vintage or antique clocks do not have a set standard price. Instead, there exists a range of prices that most people would view as reasonable. Having said that, prices for common antique clocks have largely stagnated over the past several years while rare and highly prized clocks appear to have retained their value.

People who frequently purchase antique or vintage clocks are likely aware that the clock market has been experiencing a decline in prices for some time. Is 2023 a good time to sell or buy? Of course!

_{McLauchlin tall case clock, Scotland, C. 1848}

How are clock prices set?

Setting the price for an antique or vintage clock is not a straightforward process. It involves various factors, such as the condition of the clock, its history, and the seller’s personal experience in the market.

Some sellers may price their clocks higher than their actual value to leave room for negotiation, while others may count on buyers’ lack of knowledge about the true value of the clock. However, a well-informed buyer can use their knowledge to find a great deal, by looking for prices consistent with reputable auction houses and online marketplaces.

Junghans Corner feet finished — _{Junghans Sydney C. 1913}

Factors affecting the sale of clocks

As said, high-end and truly rare clocks, such as those with historical significance or exceptional craftsmanship, have managed to retain their value in the market. However, even for these clocks, sales are still largely based on market conditions and demand. For example, if there is a sudden influx of similar clocks on the market, it could drive down the demand and price for those clocks. Therefore, while rare clocks may be more likely to hold their value, they are not completely immune to market fluctuations.

But what conditions influence the sale of run-of-the-mill antique and vintage mechanical clocks and those of slightly better quality?

Two factors have influenced the decline in prices. Common antique and vintage clocks have flooded the market in the past several years driving prices steadily downwards. Secondly, the new generation of millennials has little interest in antiques and finds it pointless to collect antique and vintage clocks. Sentimental reasons aside, the cost of servicing an antique or vintage clock far exceeds its value.

Moreover, modern homes do not have room for clocks as floor and wall space is limited. In an age when families are living in 800-square-foot apartments space is at a premium. That could change as people migrate from dense cities to smaller communities.

And when space is at a premium grandfather clocks and jeweler’s regulator clocks though finely crafted and cost thousands when new are not items many would consider appropriate for the modern family home.

While I cannot predict the future with certainty, based on the prices observed over the past few years, I anticipate that the antique clock market will remain largely unchanged in 2023 and beyond. Currently, it appears to be a buyer’s market, and there may be excellent deals available for those who are knowledgeable and take the time to shop carefully and do their research.

It’s important to remember that knowledge is power when it comes to purchasing antique clocks. Doing your homework can help you identify the most valuable and unique pieces, and can also help you avoid overpaying for items that may not hold as much value. While there may be some great clocks out there, it’s crucial to approach the market with a discerning eye to ensure that you get the most value for your money.

June 9, 2023

Understanding the Function and Importance of Beat Scales in Clocks

If you’ve ever examined a pendulum-driven wall clock, you might have noticed a small plaque affixed to the back panel just below the pendulum. This plaque is commonly known as a beat plaque or beat scale indicator. Although the presence of a beat scale on a clock does not always indicate its value, it does perform a significant role.

_{Seth Thomas #2 beat scale below pendulum bob}

Most beat scales have I and II markers on either side and when the pendulum swings, it should swing beyond the indicator I marker and close to the II.

The amplitude of the pendulum swing can reveal the health of the clock’s movement.

If there is very little amplitude in the pendulum’s swing, it could indicate wear or issues with the movement. In such cases, it may be necessary to investigate the movement, make pallet adjustments, or mitigate any wear issues.

When the pendulum swing is too large or excessive, it may indicate an issue with the clock’s movement. Swinging too far beyond the II marker on the beat scale could suggest that the clock’s mechanism has a problem, which could include a loose pallet or an escapement that has worn out. In this case, it may be necessary to make adjustments or repairs to the clock’s mechanism to address this issue.

Ideally, the pendulum of the clock should align with the center of the beat scale when the pendulum is stopped. It may not align correctly because of several reasons, such as wear and tear in the clock’s movement, changes in the environment that affect the clock’s components, improper installation, or adjustments made to the clock’s pendulum or beat scale.

If the beat scale appears off-center when the clock is stopped, it may also indicate that the clock is not squared correctly on the wall.

_{Arthur Pequegnat Moncton 15 day wall clock}

The presence of a beat scale does not necessarily imply that a clock is of high quality. Certain high-quality clocks were produced without a beat scale, while others were designed with a beat scale as a guide or an ornamental feature. In some cases, beat scales may have been added to clocks after their manufacture for decorative purposes.

If a clock has a beat scale, it assumes several conditions.

These include;

the assumption that the beat scale is original to the clock and was applied dead center,
that the scale has never been removed,
that the clock’s case has not undergone any environmental changes such as warping or high humidity,
that the pendulum rod and bob have not experienced similar environmental changes.
and that the clock’s movement, pendulum, and bob have not required any repairs or maintenance that could adversely affect the dead center between the beat scale and the pendulum.

The beat scale was originally designed and manufactured as a high-tech object and while they do serve a practical purpose in some clocks in many cases beat scales are purely decorative.

However, as noted above, the presence of a beat scale alone is not necessarily indicative of a clock’s value or quality.

May 2, 2023

Vienna Regulator – the pinnacle of clock artistry

Vienna regulator weight-driven wall clocks are a type of mechanical clock that originated in Austria in the mid-19th century. These clocks are named after the city of Vienna, where they were first produced and gained popularity throughout Europe. They are known for their unique design, which features a long, slender case with a glass door that allows the pendulum and weights to be seen.

_{Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock, circa 1880}

Vienna regulators are often considered the pinnacle of European clockmaking artistry, and they continue to be cherished by collectors and clock enthusiasts around the world for their precision, elegance, and timeless beauty.

The simple lines of the Vienna Regulator are exemplified in this unmarked mini version found on a local online for-sale site some 5 years ago. Simplicity is exemplified in its job of performing one function – telling the time.

Weight-driven clocks with comparatively large pendulum bobs give a very visual display of the clock’s activity. In my view, it is the weight-driven ones that have greater appeal than spring-driven clocks.

Nothing has been done to the clock save disassembling and cleaning the movement and polishing the pendulum and brass-encased weight.

Another is a two-weight Vienna Regulator by Gustav Becker which required extensive repair and restoration.

_{Gustav Becker 2-weight Vienna Regulator}

Vienna regulator weight-driven clocks are a testament to the precision and artistry of clock-making, showcasing the intricate mechanisms and stunning designs that make them highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike.

What is truly fascinating is the accuracy of a clock that is almost 150 years old.

March 3, 2023

The time-only clock – simplicity without the noise

People often tell me that they could never have an old-fashioned antique clock in their home because of the noise. And by noise, they are not so much disturbed by the ticking sound as they are about the sound a clock makes on the quarter, half, or on the hour, in other words, a striking or a chiming clock.

But, the ticking sound might also be bothersome. Some of my clocks are loud tickers, they can easily be heard in the next room. Some, on the other hand, are silent tickers, and the only way to determine if they are running is to approach them or observe the movement of the minute hand.

I completed work on a German Jauch time-only clock the other day and could not believe how quiet it was. This is not an expensive clock by any means. So cheap in fact that I only paid $1.65 for it, but that’s another story. It is not rare either, thousands were made but it was engineered to be very quiet.

Of the 90+ clocks I have in my collection, 20 are time-only, that is they are not striking or chiming clocks, they simply tell the time. And it is their simplicity that intrigues me. Many are wall clocks, a couple are calendar clocks, most are antiques and some are vintage. Clocks in and around bedrooms are time-only and all 4 kitchen clocks are time-only as well.

_{Three clocks located in our kitchen that are set to 3 time zones}

Here are eight of my time-only clocks (starting with the Jauch above) and a story behind each one.

This is probably one of the more expensive wall clocks in my collection. It is an unnamed Vienna-style regulator.

It is in its original finish. The finials on top might have been added but it is difficult to tell. Otherwise, the clock is complete. It was found on a local online for-sale site and the seller did not budge much from his asking price but it is one of my favorite clocks. Sadly, I do not know anything about its history.

I picked up this clock while on vacation in the USA. It was found in an antique mall in Michigan. A very simple clock, cheap and it runs very well though because it is spring driven it is not one of my better timekeepers. The ticking is just soft enough to be soothing which is why it is the only clock running in our bedroom.

_{Federal-style banjo clock, possibly John Sawin CA.1840}

This Federal-style weight-driven banjo clock was discovered at a yard sale near my home. The seller was trying to steer me toward a 30-hour clock for an outrageous price that I knew was worthless but they obviously did not know the value of this Federal-style banjo clock so I bought it instead for a ridiculously low price.

It was a family clock held by a collector in Wolfville, Nova Scotia (Canada) for a number of years until he passed away. It is a weight-driven clock, very accurate, very well constructed, and very well preserved. The dial glass was broken and other than that, it came as you see it in the photo.

This 8-day time-only clock came from a business establishment in Toronto, Ontario (Canada). It was well cared for, serviced regularly, and very accurate. The Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was also a popular choice for train stations across North America.

This mahogany-cased gem is an Arthur Pegugant Moncton 15-day double spring time-only clock that was a popular choice for business establishments. It is also from the Toronto area.

_{Gilbert Admiral with calendar CA.1895}

Found in a local antique shop locally this Gilbert Admiral calendar clock looks great on any wall. Unfortunately, I know nothing about it. It could have been either an office or a schoolhouse clock.

Highly sought after this Kienzle World Time clock commands high prices on auction sites. This example is in pristine condition and runs but has not been serviced. It was found in an antique shop in Kazabaszua, Quebec. The clock was designed by Heinrich Möller, chief designer for Kienzle Clock Co. of Germany, and it was considered a higher-end big desk office clock that displays world time zones. I can only imagine an important import-export dealer with this on their desk barking orders to send things here and there.

From a repairer’s point of view, time-only clocks are the simplest clocks to work on since there is not much to them. There is only one train and any repairs are straightforward and far less complicated than clocks with two or three trains. On the whole, they are more accurate, particularly weight-driven varieties because they lack the complexity of all those additional wheels and levers which only serve to add friction to any movement. Perhaps its simplicity is its greatest attraction.

My advice. If you are looking for an antique clock and plan to run it but might be bothered by the noise, consider a time-only clock. You will thank me.

Simplicity without the noise.

November 18, 2022

Gustav Becker 2-weight Vienna Regulator – 6 years later

One of my retirement gifts in 2016 was a 2-weight time and strike Gustav Becker wall clock. My wife had thoroughly searched eBay and picked what she determined to be the best gift for me considering a Gustav Becker wall clock had always been on my wish list. It was everything I had hoped for but the clock came with one hiccup and a pretty big one at that.

It was badly damaged in shipment. Finials snapped off, all glass was broken, weights were dented, trim pieces fell off, the brass dial bezel was bent, a bent gathering pallet and the movement was missing critical strike side rack and snail parts. I managed to obtain a few pieces from the seller which was not everything I required and also put in a damage claim with the postal service but received nothing from them.

_{The main case was largely untouched at least}

It was a good learning experience that taught me that one should avoid shipping a clock unless the shipper knows exactly what they are doing.

Where to start? At the time I was not sure how to approach rebuilding the clock. Do I set it aside for a later project or just dive into the deep end and learn as I go?

_{The original movement from 1902 is missing strike-side parts}

I decided to have a go at it. After gluing the parts back on, replacing the glass, sprucing up the case, and sourcing a new movement (the original 1902 movement was replaced with a 1917 movement made in the same Braunau factory) the clock was finally coming together and at the end of the three-month project, it taught me a few things about movement servicing, sourcing of parts and case repair.

My wife took a look at this clock the other day and suggested I write an update. She said that it still looked impressive years after. I put a lot of work into this clock and it appears to have paid off as it still looks great on my living room wall.

So, here it is, six years later.

October 31, 2022

The thin line between restoring a clock to its former glory and ruining it

There is a thin line between restoring a clock case to its former glory and ruining it forever. While the intent is to make them look like the day they were made, many clocks get stripped and poorly refinished and the results are beyond sad.

Although there is much debate in the world of antique furniture about what is appropriate, in serious antique clock circles, it is never a good practice to remove a finish that has aged well. Original surfaces and their preservation is the concern of every serious clock collector and some clocks must be left untouched.

There are certainly clocks that must be refinished, but that is often a process that is not well understood or practiced.

Clocks that sometimes end up on my workbench suffer from extreme neglect. They are usually found in an attic or barn, covered in filth. My first decision is whether or not they are worth saving and if so, what steps should be taken, what additional parts are required, where can they be sourced and what is the expected outcome.

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock — _{A $5 barn find} _{with a finish that is completely gone}

Perhaps the best example is a $5 Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock saved from the trash heap.

Even the movement, complete with rusty mainspring, has found a new lease on life.

_{A very rusty movement that most would throw out or harvest for parts}

The intent was never to save it for re-sale purposes but as a test bed for case refinishing and movement repair.

_{The same movement,} _{cleaned, wear issues addressed and on the test stand}

My approach is to either leave it completely untouched (other than a soap and water cleaning) or go full on, there is no half measure. Some clocks require the full treatment whereas others can be left completely as-is.

This single-weight Vienna Regulator from about 1880 had the movement serviced and the brass polished. Otherwise, the original finish was preserved and that is to be expected of a clock that has been well cared for during its life. There is no requirement to refinish this clock.

_{Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock}

The value of a clock that has been poorly refinished is severely diminished. When destroyed by well-meaning folks they have little to no value. More is lost in so-called refinishing than many well meaning people realize. However, when the ravages of time, environment, and neglect have taken their toll refinishing is justified.

Another example of a complete restoration.

Junghans clock in pieces — _{Literally a box of parts}

Junghans Crispi spring driven wall clock circa 1895 .

_{The same clock, with new parts, refinished, movement serviced}

Although some are faded now, many antiques had a near piano finish when new and the finish has simply aged. Like furniture, they are admired for their original finish and polishing brass, like silver, would have been practiced on a regular basis if the clock were still in a home. Antiques must be cleaned regularly and maintained properly so that they may last.

However, correct refinishing of a case is a long and involved process that includes the filling of all the pores in the wood, cleaning sharp edges on corners, the use of traditional glue, fashioning parts from similar wood material used at the time, cleaning the various recesses, staining wood when originally stained, artificially grained when done so originally, painted when originally painted, gessoed gold-leafed details when gold-leafed was present originally, sourcing authentic replacement parts to name a few considerations.

Too many clocks are ruined by well meaning people and that is sad.

March 22, 2022

Variables that affect antique and vintage clock prices?

Canadian made Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock, circa 1916, $300 (in Canada)

There are many types and styles of clocks and dozens of manufacturers. If you are a collector you know exactly what you are looking for and have a good idea of its approximate value. If you are not an “expert”, selecting an antique clock can be a daunting task. But this article is not about helping you find that special clock. It is about the variables that affect clock prices in 2021.

Over the years I have learned the value of many antique and vintage clocks. When I come across an interesting clock on an online for sale site or in an antique store I have several questions in mind. Is there anything special about it? When was it made? Is it rare? Is it historically significant? Is the price too high or too low and why? How much work must I put into it if it clearly needs TLC and will the seller accept a lower price? That said, I am prepared to walk away at any point.

For example, E. Ingraham clocks are common and can be had for very little money but the more desirable Ingrahams of the 1860s and 70s are those that Elias Ingraham had a hand in designing. The Ingraham Grecian is an attractive example of a clock that was designed in a period of American clock manufacturing where dappearance and uniqueness mattered.

Condition is important. One look at the case will tell me how well it was cared for. In my experience, it is pretty rare to find a clock that has been professionally serviced and many where a previous owner applied their limited skills to get it running. However, if you have the skills to service the movement and are handy at restoration, there are certainly bargains to be found.

If acquiring antique and vintage clocks is something you enjoy but have no knowledge of clock repair, the cost of servicing must be factored into the price particularly if you want it to run reliably.

Let’s assume that you are looking for an authentic antique or vintage clock that has not been altered in any way save for minor cosmetic touch-ups. What factors influence the price you pay for a clock today?

Here is a list of factors I would consider in making your next purchase and why you would pay more for some clocks and less for others.

Variables that affect clock prices today

Wall clocks generally command higher prices than mantel clocks, the exceptions are Asian wall clocks and the like that have little value.
Most mantel clocks less than 100 years old have little value.
Clocks that come from a prominent collection that are well cared for and in excellent condition are more desirable.
Demand in your local area affects price; Canadian-made clocks are sought after in Canada whereas the same clocks are almost worthless in the US.
Weight-driven clocks are more desirable than spring-driven clocks. The exception is the modern weight-driven grandfather clock whose value has plummeted in recent years.
Condition is key, a clock in excellent condition is worth more than one in poor condition or with parts missing.
Running clocks are worth (generally) more than non-running clocks.
A recently serviced clock is worth more than one that has either not been serviced in a long time or never serviced.
The same clock may be worth more than others that are the same or similar if it has special provenance i.e. a well-documented tall case clock that came from Grover Cleveland’s home.
A clock with a replacement movement is termed a marriage by collectors. Marriages are worth far less than an authentic clock but acceptable by some collectors.
Any clock that has had its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one is worthless.
One of the largest factors in a clock’s value is the manufacturer. Many from Sessions Clock Co. are rather ordinary and relatively inexpensive but some Seth Thomas Sonora Chime clocks, for example, have good value.
Age does not always equate to a higher price. A clock that is 170 years old is not necessarily worth more than one that is 50 years old.
Mechanism type; double and triple fusee clocks and pinwheel regulators are worth more than open-spring-driven mantel clocks or modern tall-case weight-driven clocks.
Some clockmakers are more desirable than others; generally speaking a German-made Winterhalder and Hofmeier mantel clock is worth more than a similar American-made Gilbert mantel clock. Assuming both are in the same condition, an unsigned four-glass French clock has a greater value than a branded American crystal regulator.

Scottish tall case clock, circa 1848 for under $300

The Law of Supply and demand and the 30-hour ogee

The law of supply and demand is the theory that explains the interaction between the sellers of a resource and the buyers for that same resource. Generally, as price increases, people are willing to supply more and demand less and vice versa when the price falls. At the end of the day, the clock market is very unpredictable. Clocks on eBay that go for $400 one month are $100 the next.

An interesting example is a 30-hour ogee clock. Prior to the popularity of online auction sites 30-hour ogee clocks (below) were commanding prices in the hundreds of dollars. Antique stores had them in the $250-400 range and when the internet came along supply increased and prices dropped.

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee, circa 1860

I have paid low prices for some of my clocks but higher for what I call special clocks that are not necessarily rare but are made with some level of precision or unique in design.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2, circa 1925, $800-1000 range

Closing thoughts

In commercial transactions, the principle that the buyer purchases at his own risk in the absence of an express warranty is termed Caveat Emptor, or let the buyer beware. In the clock world, buyers have little or no recourse if those goods turn out to be defective, misrepresented, or broken. The best of luck trying to get your money back if you are a successful bidder on an online auction site and your package arrives in pieces.

Selecting and purchasing an authentic antique mechanical clock can be a daunting task but it can also be a very rewarding experience.

March 1, 2021

Are clocks temperamental? Is my one-weight Vienna Regulator moody?

Every now and then a clock is temperamental. I am not talking about the signs of wear that will certainly stop a clock but occasionally it is serviced, everything looks good but it is downright cantankerous. Anyone who has 400-day anniversary clocks knows exactly what I mean. Are clocks moody?

I relocated my unmarked Vienna Regulator one-weight (time-only) wall clock from one room to another and it decided to stop, just like that! A push of the pendulum and 10 minutes or two hours later, it stops. Normally when a clock is moved and level is confirmed (and the movement in beat) it happily ticks along but not this time. Is my Vienna Regulator moody?

It is one of my favourite clocks and I wanted it to run.

Some might call it a mini Vienna Regulator others might call it just small. It is 34 inches long 4.75 inches deep and 11 inches at the widest point and 8.5 inches at the waist. Time-only Vienna Regulators are my absolute favourite. They are simple and usually very reliable.

Continue reading “Are clocks temperamental? Is my one-weight Vienna Regulator moody?” →

January 8, 2020

Gustav Becker 2-weight Vienna Regulator wall clock – 3 years later

Clock collectors usually pride themselves in having at least one Gustav Becker (GB) clock in their collection. I have just one but I am always on the lookout for another.

Becker clocks are not difficult to identify and date. Along with a maker’s stamp, serial numbers on the clock movements identify the year of manufacture. This clock was made in 1902 however, the original 1902 Braunau movement had too many missing parts and was replaced. It now has a “newer” Polish sourced Braunau movement from 1917.

Continue reading “Gustav Becker 2-weight Vienna Regulator wall clock – 3 years later” →

July 17, 2019

Appreciating simplicity – the mechanical clock

What other machine have you acquired that has worked continuously since it was made 150 plus years ago and still does the job it was intended for? Mechanical clocks revolutionized people’s perception of time by displaying neutral, uniform units that showed the passage of time. Though not as accurate as the modern electronic timekeeper the mechanical clock remains a marvel of engineering and innovation.

The constant search for clocks

Locating antique and vintage clocks involves travelling, meeting fascinating people and discovering a clock’s particular history. Each story is unique and some stories are sad. I recently arranged the purchase of an antique French shelf clock, arrived to pick it up and discovered that the person was terminally ill and selling off his clock collection to provide for his wife after he had passed. I really felt sorry for the fellow. Of course, many stories are happy ones.

I enjoy clocks for what they are. I often think about the men who conceived them, built them and the craftsmen working in small factories in places such as New England with primitive (by our standards) tools and the harsh conditions they endured. Life to them was a day-to-day struggle. That the clocks are still with us today is a testament to the pioneers of clock-making.

There are a lot of clocks I find intriguing. There are some people that collect complex clocks and I appreciate them as well but I lean towards beauty in simplicity. For example, the miniature Vienna Regulator pictured above is a time-only clock made during the Austrian-Hungarian empire (1870). It is simple, little can go wrong and after nearly 150 years it is still running strong.

There is a certain joy in collecting and repairing clocks. The hobby of clock-making allows one to escape from negativity, put aside worldly matters, effectively manage stress, and dispense with everyday concerns. Occasionally clock problems are very challenging however, the joy in discovering a solution is immeasurable. Beyond that, clocks are an art form and should be appreciated for what they are.

As a collector, the number of clocks I have is not important. The size of my collection is also not important but by trimming my acquisitions from time to time I keep it manageable.

April 14, 2019

A new & exciting direction in clock collecting & repair

I have been collecting clocks for over 8 years. In that time I have enjoyed my hobby immensely and I am constantly on the lookout for new and interesting acquisitions. It is more like a daily passion.

However, I now realize that as my collection steadily grows I have more than I need or want. I cherish some of my clocks and intend to keep them for years; my Arthur Pequegnats, selected Seth Thomas clocks, clocks made by the Hamilton Clock Co. and the Canada Clock Co., my Vienna regulators and some of my German wall clocks. I don’t mind parting with other clocks now or in the foreseeable future. Some I will miss and others I will not.

A house can only hold so many clocks

My daughter correctly pointed out that I should adopt a one clock comes in another goes out approach. “One-in, one-out”, she says and it makes perfect sense.

A house can only hold so many clocks. In my small office which is 10X12 I have a total of 15 clocks, 10 of which are running daily and the remainder in various states of repair. Outside my office, at any given time, there are 26 clocks in a number of rooms around the house. I am not one of those persons on YouTube who feel the need to cover their walls with clocks. I prefer to display them in a natural way, as an integral part of the decor of my home. The number is not all that important but I am trying to keep it manageable.

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron — Kienzle World Time clock and Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock

I have decided that now is the time to sell some of my clocks. My objective is not to make money but to recover the cost of the original purchase plus my labour on each clock that I sell. These are the clocks that have left my collection recently.

I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection

Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock, circa 1950

Juba Schatz Bim-Bam mantel clock, circa 1948

Four spandrels surrounding the chapter ring — Hermle Westminster chime with moon phase circa 1985

I have also gifted eight clocks over the last 3 years and most have been mantel clocks. Antique and vintage clocks make wonderful gifts to friends and family. It is cool to see them displayed and running in their homes when I visit though I know darn well that they are wound just hours before my arrival.

On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”

As my knowledge of the clock world grows and my experience repairing and restoring them expands I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection. However, those critical choices often translate into spending more money. For example, recent acquisitions have been a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 and an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, both wall clocks.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2, time-only, weight driven clock Circa 1922

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, double spring time only clock, Circa 1930

I believe my new approach is a natural progression and perhaps I have been subconsciously heading down that path for a year or more. Unless a clock has an interesting provenance, is rare, uncommon, unique and/or is a challenge to restore I will now shy away from most of the garden variety clocks one sees on online for-sale sites and yes, I still have a few of those.

On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”.

I knew during the course of collecting antique and vintage clocks combined with increased knowledge/experience that my hobby would evolve and continuing my horological journey in a slightly different way is about time,

February 22, 2019

In clock restoration circles small details can make a big difference

Small details added during clock restoration projects can change the appearance of clock in a positive way. In this article I will describe how adding a piece (actually two), that should have there in the first place, will make all the difference.

During the fall (2018) I spent a considerable amount of time restoring a Vienna styled time and strike German made FMS Mauthe spring driven wall clock. Restoration involved completely stripping and refinishing the case and fully servicing the movement. My wife commented that the transformation was dramatic and of course, I graciously accepted the compliment.

For some reason many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers

And….

Restoration included adding an arched door insert above the dial and a new centre top finial. Otherwise, the clock was complete except for one small item, the 2 wall stabilizers. Why would they be missing? A thumbscrew might go astray during a servicing and rather than find a replacement it is too easy to take both off and discard them.

Many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers. Check the rear backboard of a wall clock without stabilizers. You might find two small holes on either side of the case near the bottom indicating it once had wall stabilizers. Otherwise if you do not find those holes, the clock was never meant to have them.

Once the beat is set, level the clock on the wall and set the stabilizers by screwing each one into the wall. The stabilizers will compensate for any wall vibrations and the movement of the case during the weekly winding.

Some stabilizers are unique to brands such as Ansonia and Gustav Becker. This, however, does not mean that they are limited to these movements, they are interchangeable. The stabilizers you see here are advertised as Vienna stabilizers.

Left and right stabilizers are barely seen but preform an important function

All clock suppliers carry stabilizers. I ordered a pair and simply re-used the screw holes on either side on the backboard to attach the stabilizers.

Are they absolutely necessary? No! Can a clock run without them. Yes! Yet, it is an often overlooked detail that might make all the difference.

February 16, 2019

Antique and vintage wall clock collection

It has taken me 6 years to assemble my collection of antique and vintage clocks. Although I have many clocks, wall clocks are my particular favorites. Check out my collection of antique and vintage wall clocks in this YouTube video I made in January 2019.

Feel free to comment.

February 8, 2019

Seth Thomas Regulator #2 wall clock

During my travels through Ontario, I acquired a Seth Thomas Regulator #2, one of my newest additions. I discovered this clock in Bloomfield, a quaint village just minutes from Picton, a major hub in Prince Edward County renowned for its many wineries.

I first spotted the clock during a summer visit to the local antique shop and deliberated over the purchase for quite some time before finally deciding to take the plunge in the fall. These clocks are a rare find, and with the price being right and the clock in excellent condition, it felt like an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.

Perhaps best known as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was a fixture in many railway stations across the country during the last century—a testament to its accuracy and dependability. Robust, precise, well-engineered, and reliable, this timepiece was manufactured by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, an impressive production run of 90 years. Few clocks can boast such longevity. It is an iconic American clock, and every serious clock collector aspires to own one.

A classic style, the #2 changed very little over the years. However, certain design characteristics help date the clock. The following identification guide describes dial and case characteristics that will aid in identifying the approximate year the clock was made.

_{Click here for the larger guide; http://www.clockguy.com}

The most distinctive visible characteristic is the design of the base.

Aside from the distinctive base, all but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear with “T” hands.

The chart also lists the limited run reissue in 1976. Most Seth Thomas aficionados would agree that while the reissue is a handsome and well-made clock that is a testament to the original it is not in the same realm as an authentic Regulator #2 and the prices for these versions reflect accordingly. However, those who have the reissue seem to be pleased with their acquisition.

ccording to the chart, my clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numerals with spade hands, and the bow-tie connecting the wooden dial bezel to the drop is a single piece (earlier versions featured a three-piece bow-tie). The clock includes a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon; however, it is not a true second hand, as it runs off the escapement and takes 80 beats to complete a “minute.”

Measuring 36 ½ inches in height, the clock is veneered in mahogany. The movement is stamped with “77A” in the bottom right corner, with the letter “K” underneath, but it bears no other markings. While some versions of the 77 movement have lantern pinions, this one is equipped with cut pinions.

Are there issues with this clock? Certainly, it is over 90 years old! There is minor loss on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster and paint splatter on the top of the case not visible from the front. Is it really so hard removing a clock when painting a room!

Is it Perfect?

I brought this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car. Removing the pendulum for transport is not a particularly simple process but if you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator this one is no different. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement.

Both the weight and the pendulum must be removed for transport. There is many a story of broken glass when weight and pendulum are free to move around inside the case. To remove the weight, simply unhook it from the cable wheel.

_{There are minor issues with the dial-face}

To remove the pendulum the movement must be taken out. First, the hands are taken off. In this version, the minute hand is held in place with a nut. Older ones have a pin. There are 8 small screws that hold the dial in place. Once the dial is removed, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail are removed. Four cylindrical column posts hold the movement in place. Unscrew these beginning with the bottom two and lift the movement out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.

The trapezoid 77A movement with maintaining power in this clock looks clean. There is evidence of having been worked on in the past as there are 4 punch marks around the winding arbour to close the hole; a common practice in the past to close a pivot hole. Otherwise, the movement looks very good.

Getting the clock to run reliably was a challenge and it took a week or so to sort it out. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop.

Following a process of elimination, I removed the movement, inspected it for wear, found very little, oiled the pivots, and returned the movement to the case. I installed the dial, then the hands. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop. I removed the hands and dial; left the dial off but reinstalled the hands. Still, it would run only a few minutes. I then took the dial and hands off. I ran the movement for four days to eliminate any underlying issues and to convince myself that the problem lay in the positioning of the hands. The problem was definitely with the positioning of the hands.

On day five, I put the dial back on, then the second hand ensuring that there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the face. Next, I put the hour hand on the pipe and pressed it in far enough to clear both the second hand and the minute hand. I attached the minute hand, inspected it for sufficient clearance, and screwed it in place. I started the clock.

Success at last! Regulating the clock is fairly simple and is achieved by turning the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and in beat to function properly.

I used Murphy’s Soap to clean the grease and grime from the case. I chose to leave the paint splatter intact, as it adds a bit of character to the clock. Additionally, I polished the brass weight and pendulum bob to restore their shine.

This clock boasts a striking appearance and a rich, illustrious history, making it a perfect addition to the front entrance of our home. Unfortunately, its journey over the past 90+ years remains a mystery.

The question of whether it qualifies as a “true regulator” is a debate for another time.

December 8, 2018

My antique clock stopped, what do I do?

An antique clock stopping unexpectedly can be frustrating, especially if it has been running smoothly for years. However, a stopped clock doesn’t always signal a major problem. In many cases, the issue can be resolved with a little troubleshooting and basic maintenance. Whether it’s a cherished family heirloom or a recent addition to your collection, understanding the possible reasons behind its stoppage can help you decide on the best course of action to bring it back to life.

Perhaps you’ve recently acquired a mechanical clock—whether inherited, gifted, purchased at an antique store, bought online, or one you’ve had for a while—and, for no clear reason, it has stopped working.

Categories of Clocks

There are four general categories of clock movements; quartz, electro-mechanical, electric, and mechanical. This post focuses on mechanical clocks, whether antique or vintage and if your mechanical clock has stopped, I may be able to help you get it working again.

Running Time

It may surprise some that mechanical clocks require regular winding. Eight-day clocks need to be wound once a week, while 30-hour clocks require daily winding. 31-day clocks only need winding once a month, and 400-day clocks, also known as anniversary clocks, are wound once a year. Additionally, many German and a small number of American clocks run for 14 days before needing a wind.

Kundo standard size 400 day clock — _{Kundo Standard 400-day clock winds with a key once per year}

Winding a Clock Movement

What does winding a clock actually mean? It means providing enough power to a mechanism that will allow it to run for its designed cycle.

For example for clocks with mainsprings, winding a mainspring implies turning the key until the clock winds no further. Time and strike clocks will have two winding arbours, chiming clocks generally have 3 winding arbours.

Clocks with weights have one, two, or three winding points. Absent the odd exception, a time-only clock will have one winding point, a time-and-strike clock will have two, and a chiming clock will have three. If there are no winding holes on the clock face, it is a weight-driven clock and the weights must be pulled up by hand.

In the case of clocks with mainsprings that provide the motive power for the time, strike, and chimes, wind each arbour until resistance is met and you cannot wind any further.

One key will fit all the arbours except the regulator arbour (on clocks that have this feature) which requires a smaller key. Clocks that have a regulator arbour originally came with a double-ended key; the smaller key is for the regulator.

Clocks generally wind clockwise but it is also common to find winding arbours that must be wound counterclockwise.

Over-winding

The idea of overwinding a clock is a myth. If a clock stops after being fully wound, it typically indicates that dirt, old oil, or grime on the mainspring has caused it to seize. Even if the mainspring, once unseized, has enough power, it still needs cleaning, which requires disassembling the movement and checking for other potential issues.

A clock in good working condition should complete its full cycle, whether that’s 30 hours, 8 days, 14 days, 31 days, or any other duration.

_{Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows). The arbour over the 6 requires a smaller key to regulate the clock}

Why Has My Clock Stopped

First and foremost, all clocks require motive power. Winding a clock stores potential energy in the mainspring, which is gradually released over a designed period of time. This energy is regulated by the escapement, a mechanism that controls the release of the energy in small, consistent increments, ensuring the clock keeps accurate time. Weights resting on the bottom of the baseboard will stop a clock and a completely unwound spring-driven clock will not run.

Is the clock in beat? Put your clock on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to its rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, tick….. tock or tock tick…… Put another way, there must be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will not run, or it will run for a short time and stop. A clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.

Is the clock level? There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. If it is a wall clock move the bottom section from side to side till you hear a steady beat. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.

Adjusting the crutch Adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring. Other mantel clocks require similar adjustment to the crutch and instructions may be provided on a label or a pamphlet that came with the clock. A clock with a balance wheel or lever-type escapement rather than a pendulum will operate on a non-level surface.

Have repairs been done recently? Unless you had a friend fix your clock most reputable clock-makers will offer a warranty, typically 6 months to a year. If your clock stops within that time frame, contact the clock-repairer who may offer a few suggestions in the form of adjustments, over the phone before taking it back to the shop. If it still does not work have that person take a look at the clock.

Do you have the correct pendulum? Other than the winding key, it seems to be the item that gets lost the most. If lost or misplaced, ensure you buy a pendulum that is correct for your clock. One too light may mean that it does not run at all, too heavy and the centre of gravity is lowered and the clock might run too slowly. Clock suppliers such as Perrin or Timesavers will have the correct pendulum for your clock.

pendulum bob with adjuster — _{Pendulum bob with an adjuster for a French time and strike}

Something is broken? If there is no resistance when turning the winding key, the mainspring has broken or a click has let go. If the mainspring winds but releases in your hand, the most common cause is a broken or worn click spring. This is a repair that requires removing the movement from its case, taking it apart, and replacing the worn or damaged part. If you are skilled with that kind of repair, go ahead and fix it, if not, a specialist is required.

A loud BANG when you turn the key indicates the mainspring has broken or let go. It may not be as simple as replacing the mainspring. If the mainspring breaks it might have taken out other parts with it such as pinions and gear cogs. This is called collateral damage. An inspection and a full servicing of the movement is the only solution. Occasionally a broken mainspring is the only problem but the broken spring must come out of the barrel. Some movement designs allow the barrel to be removed without disassembling the mechanism. Whether the barrel is removable or not, a correct mainspring must be sourced to replace it and installed in the barrel which is a job for an expert.

The mainspring inside the barrel may also have become unhooked. This could occur if the clock was wound backward or if the hooked end of the mainspring is split or broken. To address this, the clock will need to be disassembled, the spring barrel opened, and the cause of the unhooking identified. In some cases, a replacement mainspring may be necessary.

For time and strike clocks with open mainsprings, the break may be on one mainspring or both. The clock must be completely disassembled, mainsprings replaced, the movement inspected for other issues, reassembled, and tested.

_{Sessions click, brass spring, and ratchet}

Why does my weight-driven clock stop? Ensure that the weights are in their correct location. If it is a new acquisition of a grandfather clock the three weights have a specific location. Look underneath the weight shells for marks indicating their location “L”, left side, “C”, center and “R”, right side. If there are no markings, use a scale to determine the one that is the lightest weight and put that on the left side.

When bringing up the weights to the top of the clock be careful that they are not run past their stops. You should have a full view of the weights on a weight-driven clock once wound.

Antique Ogee clocks and other weight-driven shelf clocks often lack their original weights, as these have been lost or misplaced over time. Eight-day clocks typically have heavier 8 or 9 lb weights while 30-hour clocks have lighter 2 1/2 lb or 3 lb weights. Incorrect weights for these clocks will cause them to stop.

Is the weight cord or the brass cable binding in any way? The cord or cable should be just long enough to accommodate the weights. A cord or cable that is too long will bind while being wound and stop the clock.

_{Gustav Becker two-weight wall clock requires a winding crank}

Some clocks like weight-driven Vienna Regulators can be adjusted by a transverse regulating screw assembly where the crutch inserts into a slot in the pendulum. Turning a screw in one direction or the other will correct the beat.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, if you encounter a unique issue not addressed here, it’s advisable to consult a professional clock repairer or someone with expertise in mechanical clock repairs. Working with mechanical clocks carries a certain level of risk, as the power stored in the mainsprings can cause injury if not handled carefully. On the other hand, weight-driven clocks generally present less risk.

Although this article may not cover every possible scenario, I hope it has provided you with a clearer understanding of your clock’s issue and how to approach its resolution.

August 4, 2018

What is this thing for? #1 – The clock case stabilizer

My Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator wall clock is 51 inches in length. It is a 2-weight regulator that runs on an eight day cycle. In order to bring the weights up I must open the access door and insert the winding crank into the arbours on the clock face. I then raise the weights to their highest safe level. During the process of opening the access door and winding the clock there is always the risk of moving the clock, disrupting the level thus creating a condition where it is out-of-beat. In short the stabilizers, located on each side, keep the case from shifting while winding the clock.

Clock-makers provided stabilizers on many clocks so that they would not move during regular winding or remain stable in the event of vibration or shock (accidentally bumping into it).

The stabilizer is usually about an inch in length, has a knurled brass knob on one end and is mounted on a brass or steel plate which is then fixed to the back of the clock case by means of wood screws.

This is the right stabilizer on my Gustav Becker.

Junghans Crispi wall clcok with compensating pendulum — Junghans Crispi wall clock showing one of the stabilizers

If you find two small holes on either side of the back and near the bottom of the case of a wall clock you can bet that you are missing the wall stabilizers. You can order them from any clock supply house.

They not only complete the look of a wall clock but are functional as well. A very simple solution to a potentially frustrating problem.

July 12, 2018

Polishing Bushings

Bushing Work

Reassembly

Testing

Final thoughts

Related Links

Rate this:

Share this:

Related Links

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

The Lenzkirch Story

Company History

The Beginning of a Clock Empire

The Growth of the Company

Delivering Clocks Becomes a Challenge

The Rise and Fall of Lenzkirch

Disclaimer | My Role in the Sale

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

A house can only hold so many clocks

I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection

On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”

Rate this:

Share this:

For some reason many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Is it Perfect?

Rate this:

Share this:

Categories of Clocks

Running Time

Winding a Clock Movement

Over-winding

Why Has My Clock Stopped

Final thoughts

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this: