Although there are two dozen clock books in my collection I am always on the look out for more. Some of my books profile various types and styles of clocks, some explore the history of horology while others are concerned with clock repair and case restoration.
Part of every vacation or daily outing in my province of Nova Scotia or elsewhere in Canada involves scouring the used books stores for clock books. Sometimes I am lucky and manage to locate some good ones but quite often I will leave used book stores disappointed.
The table of contents describes what he covers in his book.
Contents of the bookSpecialized procedures
Although the book is no longer in print it provides excellent examples of clock repair procedures by describing step-by-step instruction for overhauling and repairing many movements plus the repair and restoration of dials, and cases of antique pendulum clocks. Commonly found clocks that you are likely to inherit or find on online auction sites, flea markets and antique stores are covered.
John Plewes covers clocks from Britain, Canada, the US, France and Germany. There are plenty of diagrams and photos in the book to assist the amateur or expert repair person .
For example, Chapter 4 covers the Pequegnat Regulator #1 8-day movement.
“The finest clock made in America”; Pequegnat advertisement. This clock hangs in the Canadian Clock Museum
The clock is markedly similar to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 shown below.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
Plewes makes several interesting points regarding the design of this clock. He discusses the difficulty in finding a replacement weight and often the lighter Seth Thomas weight is substituted which leads to the clock stopping after a while. Plewes is surprisingly critical of the #1 at one point stating that the hands are too heavy since they influence the force applied to the train. The pendulum arc changes when the minute hand indicates 20 minutes after, as against that at 50 minutes. The solution, he feels, is to counterweight the hands or install lighter hands. Plewes opines that the whole point of a regulator is to maintain the constant arc and Pequegnat seemed to have missed that point when designing the clock.
Plewes covers a lot of ground in his book. Some of the advice is certainly beyond the skill level of an amateur clock repair person but if you are interested in growing within the world of clock repair and case restoration it will provide an invaluable resource.
Also included are safety tips, shop techniques, and a glossary of terms.
The book was last published over 30 years ago but If you can find it, and are interested in clock repair from a Canadian perspective it is well worth the cost.
On March 10th Daylight Savings Time began at 3:00am in Canada. Over 100 years ago on July 1, 1908, the residents of Port Arthur, Ontario, today’s Thunder Bay, turned their clocks forward by 1 hour to start the world’s first DST period.
Spring ahead, Fall behind
In Canada we refer to it as Daylight Saving Time (DST); the British call it “British Summer Time” and “summertime” in other areas. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer while sacrificing normal sunrise times. Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. We have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
There is a constant dispute about the benefits and drawbacks. Proponents say that it conserves energy and has a psychological benefit of extending the daylight hours. Opponents say that the energy arguments are inconclusive.
Regardless, people must remember to change their clocks. It is a time-consuming exercise, particularly for those owners of antique and vintage mechanical clocks that cannot be moved backward safely though obviously moving 1-hour forward is much simpler.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton wall clock
But why go through this nonsense; let’s just get rid of DST! I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts. My mechanical clocks will appreciate it and yours will too!
Small details added during clock restoration projects can change the appearance of clock in a positive way. In this article I will describe how adding a piece (actually two), that should have there in the first place, will make all the difference.
During the fall (2018) I spent a considerable amount of time restoring a Vienna styled time and strike German made FMS Mauthe spring driven wall clock. Restoration involved completely stripping and refinishing the case and fully servicing the movement. My wife commented that the transformation was dramatic and of course, I graciously accepted the compliment.
For some reason many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers
Before
And….
After
Restoration included adding an arched door insert above the dial and a new centre top finial. Otherwise, the clock was complete except for one small item, the 2 wall stabilizers. Why would they be missing? A thumbscrew might go astray during a servicing and rather than find a replacement it is too easy to take both off and discard them.
Clock case stabilizers
Many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers. Check the rear backboard of a wall clock without stabilizers. You might find two small holes on either side of the case near the bottom indicating it once had wall stabilizers. Otherwise if you do not find those holes, the clock was never meant to have them.
Once the beat is set, level the clock on the wall and set the stabilizers by screwing each one into the wall. The stabilizers will compensate for any wall vibrations and the movement of the case during the weekly winding.
Right side stabilizer
Some stabilizers are unique to brands such as Ansonia and Gustav Becker. This, however, does not mean that they are limited to these movements, they are interchangeable. The stabilizers you see here are advertised as Vienna stabilizers.
Left and right stabilizers are barely seen but preform an important function
All clock suppliers carry stabilizers. I ordered a pair and simply re-used the screw holes on either side on the backboard to attach the stabilizers.
Are they absolutely necessary? No! Can a clock run without them. Yes! Yet, it is an often overlooked detail that might make all the difference.
It has taken me 6 years to assemble my collection of antique and vintage clocks. Although I have many clocks, wall clocks are my particular favorites. Check out my collection of antique and vintage wall clocks in this YouTube video I made in January 2019.
Most refer to the name “Horse Crown” when describing this clock and it is easy to see why. Many would also consider it a Vienna Regulator style of clock. I have been putting off servicing this movement for a while and a long time has passed since it was properly serviced. So, let’s get started. First, some background.
Mauthe “Horse Crown”
The clcok was complete save for a missing bottom centre finial. I installed a new one shorty after I bought the clock
Clocks such as these are often missing not only a finial or two but the crown and other parts so this clock is in good condition.
Replacement middle finial
Year it was made and a history of the company
From my research, the trademark on the front plate tells me that the movement was made between 1895 and 1914 though the exact year of manufacture is unknown. Mauthe trademarks are very distinctive and from the trademark design, one can place the clock within a specific period of time. Unfortunately, the production number on the movement is a mystery as there is no known database for Mauthe clocks.
Trademark, production number, length of the pendulum (34cm), BPM (116) & patent number
Mauthe clocks have had a long and illustrious German history. In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. They were very successful through the years and diversified in several areas but after 1946 following the production of wrist watches the company gradually fell into decline.
This clock reminds me of what Forest Gump once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”
Now let’s open it up
The clock hung on my living room wall for three years. When I bought it I knew that it would eventually require servicing but there were so many other projects on the go, it could wait. The clock ran for several months at a stretch and there were months that the clock did not run at all. So, now that other projects have been completed the time is right for a thorough servicing.
Mauthe wall clock with new bottom centre finial
Forest Gump once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”. When inspecting any antique clock movement for the first time I have learned to expect just about anything.
As I move through any project my intent is not necessarily to correct mistakes of the past since they are an important part of the clock’s history but to ensure that past repairs do not cause me grief in the future. If it is a crude but functional and sturdy repair, I will generally leave it alone. I have learned that past repairs are part of the history of the clock.
When I took the movement out of the case I discovered something quite interesting. The dial is not original. Yes, it is a Mauthe dial but not for this clock. Two brass strips are fastened to each side of the front plate to accommodate a replacement dial. The added holes drilled into the side braces tell me that it once has a slightly smaller dial.
I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity
I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity. When I bought my first Vienna Regulator I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years and it made me wonder what is original and what is not. It as an unwinnable argument and I have learned to accept the notion that it may not matter to me or to a casual observer who would not think of questioning whether a clock and its parts are original.
Two extensions, soldered to the sides to accommodate a replacement movement
But, let’s move on. A repair was made to the strike hammer which appears to have broken off at one point. Again, a rough but solid repair.
Hammer repair, you can see a pool of oil on the pivot to the left
The clock was coated in oil which was dripping down the plates. However, in terms of its general condition, there is surprisingly little wear. Perhaps the liberal application of oil had a hand in preserving the movement but I suspect that it did not run much over its life.
Mainspring servicing using the Olie Baker spring winder
The mainsprings are enclosed in barrels. I opened up the spring barrels to service the mainsprings. The mainsprings are in good shape with no evidence of rust. They cleaned up nicely. Broken mainsprings in German clocks can be problematic. Severe damage can result in missing mainspring barrel teeth and broken lantern pinions when the mainsprings let go, a challenge for any clock-maker.
Top plate removedStrike side levers, escapement
The movement was disassembled and the parts were cleaned in my L&R ultrasonic cleaner. The springs and barrels were cleaned separately. All parts were washed in warm water and dried. Finally, the pivots were inspected and polished. Although this movement has a count wheel between the plates with levers much like an American time and strike there are no annoying helper springs to frustrate the re-assembly process.
After lubricating the mainsprings with Keystone Mainspring Lubricant, I put the movement together without the levers to check end-shake, meshing and the condition of the pivot holes. Two lantern pinions had some flat-spot wear but not enough to warrant replacement. Two pivot holes are slightly enlarged on the third and fourth wheel strike side but not so bad that they need immediate attention. If I were in the business of repairing clocks for a living I would bush those two and repair the lantern pinions.
Parts are cleaned & positioned, ready for the front plate
To reassemble the movement I secured the bottom front plate nuts to the back plate and then positioned the pivots into their holes working upwards. Once the pivots are in place on the strike side I attach the third nut loosely and continue guiding the pivots and the two lever assemblies in place. Unlike American movement which have larger pivots, care must be taken not to force the relatively small pivots into their holes.
Much like an American time and strike movement, the cam lever must be in the deep part of the cam while at the same time the count hook is in the deep slot on the count wheel. I made a note of the position of the stop wheel beforehand and in so doing managed to correctly position it on my first attempt.
I generally run a movement for an hour or so without lubricant to determine if everything is functioning properly. No point in oiling the movement repeatedly if it has the be dis-assembled to correct an issue. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running as it should, I apply oil to the pivot holes.
Having the movement out gave me an opportunity to clean up the case, paint the gong mount and movement rail and give the entire case two coats of shellac (traditional 1 lb cut). The movement is now reinstalled in the case.
With respect to my comments concerning the pivot holes and lantern pinions, putting the movement on a shorter 2-year cycle will enable me to monitor wear.
If you are going to sell a clock this is certainly not how to do it. The image (and there is only one image) is blurry and the person holding the clock looks like they are in their Pajamas. Plus, there are absolutely no details about this clock in the ad, just the price.
Great photos taken from many angles and a thoughtful description are fundamental to selling any clock.
I had just completed servicing this German Mauthe time and strike wall clock and everything seemed to be going well. It was keeping good time,striking on the half hour as it should and maintaining a consistent an 8-day cycle.
During my regular Saturday clock winding ritual, I decided to begin with this clock. I inserted the key into the strike side arbour, began to turn the arbour and “bang” went the mainspring. The winding key almost took my thumb off.
I think I am going to lose that nail
Ignoring the excruciating pain I just had to investigate the problem. I took the movement out of the case and took the dial off. Of course, I feared the worst. A sound like that is never good. The barrel seemed undamaged, the teeth were intact, no bent arbours and there did not appear to be any collateral breakage.
Aha!, there it is, a loose click spring. The click released when there was not enough tension on the click to hold it firmly to the ratchet wheel.
My fault entirely. When I dis-assembled the movement I bent the click springs out of the way and did not recheck the spring’s tension. When I re-assembled the movement the click on the strike side was evidently loose but it looked tight enough. I wondered why the strike side ratchet sounded “tinny” but I thought nothing of it. Now I know.
Clicks on Mauthe movement
I increased the tension of the click spring. To be on the safe side I checked and tightened the time side one as well. Both sides now have that reassuring click-click sound. As you can see in the above photo It is not the best click spring design.
A reminder to anyone working on clocks that potential (or stored) energy in the form of powerful mainsprings can be dangerous. All is well, lesson learned. But my poor thumb!
Happy Birthday Sir Sanford Fleming, the inventor of Standard Time.
Sir Sanford Fleming (January 7, 1827 – July 22, 1915) was Canada’s foremost railway surveyor and construction engineer of the 19th century and a distinguished inventor and scientist.
CPR steam engine
Sir Sanford Fleming played a crucial role in developing a global system for setting time. Fleming advocated the adoption of a standard or mean time and hourly variations from that according to established time zones. He was instrumental in convening the 1884 International Prime Meridian Conference in Washington, at which the system of international standard time – still in use today – was adopted.
Pinwheel regulator designed for railroads, NAWCC museum
Many regions of Canada and the US observed local time and when coast to coast rail systems were constructed a unified time system was identified as a necessity. In the United States, the problems were severe, with one table showing over 100 local times in one region varying by more than 3 hours.
The first proposal for a consistent treatment of time worldwide was a memoir entitled “Terrestrial Time” by Fleming. Fleming was, at the time, the chief engineer of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, presented a proposal to the Canadian Institute in 1876. He produced modified proposals using the Greenwich meridian. Fleming’s two papers were considered so important that in June 1879 the British Government forwarded copies to eighteen foreign countries and to various scientific bodies in England.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2, a common railway clock
On 11 October 1883, two years after the invention of the toilet paper roll,
S. Wheeler and the toilet paper roll
a convention of railroad executives met in Chicago and agreed to the implementation of five time zones in North America, using as a basis, Greenwich Mean Time. Standard time was introduced at noon on 18 November 1883 across the nation though it was not legally established until 1918.
As we celebrate Sir Sanford Fleming’s birthday it is important to reflect on his contribution to the construct of organizing time; something all of us take for granted in our daily lives.
My kids stress every year over what to get dad for Christmas. They know that I am an avid antique clock collector and they know that I love to restore and repair antique and vintage clocks. They always ask, “Is there anything he needs”. I have all the tools I need and certainly all the clocks that I want. The fact that they think about it pleases me.
However, it is the little things I always appreciate in my Christmas stocking. Kids, if you want to give me something put a new pair of cloth gloves, a box of toothpicks, cotton swabs, or a paintbrush in my Christmas stocking so I know that you are thinking of me.
Sure, I would love to have that elusive Martin Cheney wall clock or the pride of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, the Regulator #1 but even if they find that special clock for me it would spoil my personal journey to find that special clock.
Christmas is a time of joy, not of giving, unless the giving is in the form of love and appreciation for friends, family and colleagues.
So, if you are looking for that special gift for the clock lover in your family remember the simple things.
Regular viewers may recall this post in September 2018. Added are new photos and additional information on this project.
I wrote about this Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock barn find in a previous article. It has been a test bed for case restoration techniques I have never attempted before.
A barn find clock in pieces (next photo) is a challenge for anyone. It was missing some parts and as I began to take an inventory of what I required to get this clock running after so many years I discovered that I had enough to make something of it and whatever was missing could be easily sourced. Those key parts? Not so simple, as I will explain later
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock, a barn findAnsonia Extra Drop barn find, drop access door is missing
There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.
This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2-inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door which I was missing, opens downwards. Other Drop Extra variations have access doors open to the side. Mine will also open downwards.
Drop door from another clock in open position
I assembled all the pieces I had from the barn find. Missing were small trim pieces, the pendulum bob and leader, the clock hands and verge. But two key pieces are required, the brass dial bezel and the drop door. During the course of making inquiries concerning the missing pieces, the movement was serviced and installed in the case. It is running reliably and maintains a full 8-day cycle.
Regarding the drop door. This is obviously not a piece I could buy from a clock supplier. The first step was to take the measurements and construct the frame. I cut pine wood from an old Ogee donor clock. I began with a door frame. The frame is about 7 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches high leaving a snug fit between the top and side opening.
Using my table saw I cut the appropriate lengths, assembled the frame and then glued the ends together (next photo). I put a weight on the frame for 24 hours to prevent warping. Pine moulding sits atop the frame to accommodate the rosewood veneer.
Pine frame is 7 X 4 1/2 inchesTest fitting the door frame
I cut a single 1 inch piece of doweling with a 3/8 inch crown. The result? Too wide and the crown was too high. The wide trim and high crown meant that the hinges would not function properly and it looked odd.
First attempt; the trim is too wide and too high
I wanted to duplicate the one in the next photo.
Ansonia door from a similar clock in closed position and also showing a narrow molding
I discarded the moulding, kept the sub-frame and made smaller pieces which looked quite a lot better.
I cut a section from 1 1/4 inch doweling resulting in a 3/16 inch crown. My stock Rosewood veneer is only 6 inches wide which I then cut into strips. I veneered the entire 26 inch piece using medium strength pearl hide glue. I used foam blocks to press the veneer into the moulding clamping at each end of the section.
First part of a 26 inch strip after gluing and clampingVeneering is just about completeClamping in stages using sponge blocks; the wood strip allows equal pressure along each section
The veneer was applied in stages since I had only two clamps that were appropriate for this project. After applying the first strip I learned that wetting the veneer on the top side allowed it to take the shape of the moulding. I then cut the strip into 4 mitered sections, glued the sections onto the frame and applied 2 coats of Brazilian Rosewood stain. At first I was reluctant to stain the veneer but using a test piece and applying two coats of shellac I discovered that the shade was too light in comparison to the veneer on the clock case.
Test fitting the 4 sections, prior to gluingGlued (Hide Glue); weight placed on the moulding and frameFinial and knob
Two 1/2 inch hinges were used plus a knob salvaged from an Ogee donor clock.
Knob and 3/4 inch hingesKnob from Ogee clockGlass added and door in placeThe 3/4 inch hinges allow the door to drop downAnsonia Drop Extra wall clock
It is certainly not perfect and there is much I could improve upon in the next project. I have a door knob that will fit with some modifications (see above) but that is a small project for another day. A glass decal would also be a nice addition.
Beyond this I can go no further with this project. The brass bezel still alludes me though I might have a lead on one from an antique shop owner in Connecticut (USA).
This Ansonia Extra Drop is an attractive but incomplete clock with a interesting story and a test-bed for case restoration.
During my travels through Ontario, I acquired a Seth Thomas Regulator #2, one of my newest additions. I discovered this clock in Bloomfield, a quaint village just minutes from Picton, a major hub in Prince Edward County renowned for its many wineries.
I first spotted the clock during a summer visit to the local antique shop and deliberated over the purchase for quite some time before finally deciding to take the plunge in the fall. These clocks are a rare find, and with the price being right and the clock in excellent condition, it felt like an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.
Perhaps best known as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was a fixture in many railway stations across the country during the last century—a testament to its accuracy and dependability. Robust, precise, well-engineered, and reliable, this timepiece was manufactured by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, an impressive production run of 90 years. Few clocks can boast such longevity. It is an iconic American clock, and every serious clock collector aspires to own one.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2, circa 1922
A classic style, the #2 changed very little over the years. However, certain design characteristics help date the clock. The following identification guide describes dial and case characteristics that will aid in identifying the approximate year the clock was made.
The most distinctive visible characteristic is the design of the base.
The base of the clock
Aside from the distinctive base, all but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear with “T” hands.
The chart also lists the limited run reissue in 1976. Most Seth Thomas aficionados would agree that while the reissue is a handsome and well-made clock that is a testament to the original it is not in the same realm as an authentic Regulator #2 and the prices for these versions reflect accordingly. However, those who have the reissue seem to be pleased with their acquisition.
ccording to the chart, my clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numerals with spade hands, and the bow-tie connecting the wooden dial bezel to the drop is a single piece (earlier versions featured a three-piece bow-tie). The clock includes a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon; however, it is not a true second hand, as it runs off the escapement and takes 80 beats to complete a “minute.”
Measuring 36 ½ inches in height, the clock is veneered in mahogany. The movement is stamped with “77A” in the bottom right corner, with the letter “K” underneath, but it bears no other markings. While some versions of the 77 movement have lantern pinions, this one is equipped with cut pinions.
Are there issues with this clock? Certainly, it is over 90 years old! There is minor loss on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster and paint splatter on the top of the case not visible from the front. Is it really so hard removing a clock when painting a room!
Is it Perfect?
I brought this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car. Removing the pendulum for transport is not a particularly simple process but if you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator this one is no different. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement.
Both the weight and the pendulum must be removed for transport. There is many a story of broken glass when weight and pendulum are free to move around inside the case. To remove the weight, simply unhook it from the cable wheel.
There are minor issues with the dial-face
To remove the pendulum the movement must be taken out. First, the hands are taken off. In this version, the minute hand is held in place with a nut. Older ones have a pin. There are 8 small screws that hold the dial in place. Once the dial is removed, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail are removed. Four cylindrical column posts hold the movement in place. Unscrew these beginning with the bottom two and lift the movement out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.
The trapezoid 77A movement with maintaining power in this clock looks clean. There is evidence of having been worked on in the past as there are 4 punch marks around the winding arbour to close the hole; a common practice in the past to close a pivot hole. Otherwise, the movement looks very good.
Trapezoid 77A movement
Getting the clock to run reliably was a challenge and it took a week or so to sort it out. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop.
Following a process of elimination, I removed the movement, inspected it for wear, found very little, oiled the pivots, and returned the movement to the case. I installed the dial, then the hands. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop. I removed the hands and dial; left the dial off but reinstalled the hands. Still, it would run only a few minutes. I then took the dial and hands off. I ran the movement for four days to eliminate any underlying issues and to convince myself that the problem lay in the positioning of the hands. The problem was definitely with the positioning of the hands.
On day five, I put the dial back on, then the second hand ensuring that there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the face. Next, I put the hour hand on the pipe and pressed it in far enough to clear both the second hand and the minute hand. I attached the minute hand, inspected it for sufficient clearance, and screwed it in place. I started the clock.
Success at last! Regulating the clock is fairly simple and is achieved by turning the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and in beat to function properly.
I used Murphy’s Soap to clean the grease and grime from the case. I chose to leave the paint splatter intact, as it adds a bit of character to the clock. Additionally, I polished the brass weight and pendulum bob to restore their shine.
The view from our front door
This clock boasts a striking appearance and a rich, illustrious history, making it a perfect addition to the front entrance of our home. Unfortunately, its journey over the past 90+ years remains a mystery.
The question of whether it qualifies as a “true regulator” is a debate for another time.
This is Part III, the last of a three-part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part two can be found here.
This antique Victorian style German time and strike FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased from a family living in Truro Nova Scotia that once resided in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago.
I have covered movement servicing in a previous article and now for case restoration. The case is part walnut veneer with softwood turns, frame and backboard, likely pine or poplar. All original wood surfaces were stained or lacquered to resemble walnut.
Time and a harsh environment have not been kind to this once majestic clock as the finish was in very poor condition. Stripping the case was my only option.
Mauthe crown, missing right finial
Base of clock
Stripping and staining were quite straightforward but time-consuming. After rubbing with steel wool I applied stain called Special Walnut, a light stain by Minwax which had the effect of enriching the grains even further. After the case was sanded I then applied 5 coats of shellac making the shellac in the traditional way with flakes and alcohol. I found a 1 lb cut ideal for this project.
The finish was probably the worst aligorating I have seen
Turned door column
Refinished corner section
As mentioned in a previous post, the movement was cleaned and two bushings were installed on the time side and one on the strike side. It was mounted in its case and has completed a successful testing period.
Although I was pleased with my work on the top door crosspiece, I could not find one clock online with a crosspiece similar to it from that period. Back to the drawing board!
Ogee style crosspiece on top of the front access door, stained to match case (later removed)
An Internet search for clocks of that style and period revealed that every clock had an arched top trim piece much like this Junghans Crispi wall clock from 1899.
Walnut veneer is preferred but I had to make do with oak plywood. Oak has a more pronounced grain but the end result looks good. Using a router I cut 3/16 inch oak veneered plywood into 2 curved pieces. Making a turn on a router is not as easy as it looks and it took me several attempts to get it right. After the 2 sections were cut (left, right and joining in the middle) I applied a darker walnut stain to match the case. I then covered the pieces with several coats of shellac then glued the two sections onto the top door frame.
The arched trim piece is an improvement and more in keeping with the design of the clock at that time.
Arched trim
The top finial was purchased from a supplier and stained to match the two lower finials.
The top final is new and stained to match the other two
Unfortunately, there is not much I can do about the darkened celluloid dial. Celluloid dials are almost impossible to clean. Replacement is an option but it would look out of place.
Celluloid dial with brass centre piece
The clock is now finished. The last step is regulating the movement.
The following is a breakdown of the costs & work completed:
Costs:
Purchase price $100
Amber shellac flakes, alcohol, brushes, containers – $75 (this cost will be spread over future projects)
Razor scraper for glass cleaning, $5
Finial $3
Furniture stripper $10
Suspension spring $4
3/16 inch plywood $12.95
Corner doweling for the crown (left side) $6
TOTAL: $212.95
Traditional shellac is the only way to go
Work done:
Case stripped down to bare wood with furniture stripper, all surfaces except side frames
Sanded case
1 coat of Minwax “Special” walnut stain which is lighter than dark walnut
5 coats of shellac, 1 lb cut, rubbed with fine steel wool between coats.
Crosspiece for top of door fashioned from kitchen cabinet moulding, stained to match case, shellacked (later removed)
Arched top door insert made from 3/16″ oak veneered plywood, stained and shellacked
Adler gong and rails, cleaned & repainted
Beat plate cleaned and made flat, as flat as possible without damaging it!
Centre pan of dial face cleaned
Hands painted with flat black acrylic metal paint (2 coats)
New top centre “curtain rod” finial from Lee Valley, stained and shellacked, hole drilled for support post
Crown support rail constructed of softwood
Movement disassembled & cleaned in ultrasonic. Unable to remove the spring barrels. 3 bushings installed
Glass removed, scraped of shellac residue, cleaned and reinstalled. The residue told me that the case had been shellacked at least once in the past
The finished product
A satisfying project that resulted in the transformation of a clock that had been ignored for too long. its underlying beauty can finally be appreciated. Would I do things differently in the future? For the most part, no but there are some minor things I would approach in a different way. Case restoration is a learning process and each new project presents an interesting and unique challenge.
The clock has now been returned to its former glory and will now occupy a prominent location in my home.
I discovered this Arthur Pequegnat Moncton in an antique store in Bloomfield, Ontario. I had my eye on it during a visit to the antique shop this past summer (2018), thought about it before taking the plunge later in the fall to buy it. These clocks do not come up very often and the price was right.
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 until the company closed its doors in 1941. The clock firm was originally founded in 1903 by Saas & Ford but was purchased by Arthur Pequegnat the following year.
Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Arthur Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada. However, the use of city names began to decline in the late 1920s when models such as the Eclipse and Swan were introduced. Arthur Pequegnat also showed his patriotism to the Royal family and to Canada and therefore named a number of models, the Monarch, the King Edward, the Maple Leaf, the Dominion, the Canadian Time and so on.
Pendulum, beat plate & centre cut rounded bottom
Pequegnat made mantel, parlour clocks, as well as Mission, kitchen, gingerbread, tambour, wall, and floor models (hall clocks). In most households of the period, a clock was a decorative status symbol, not just a timepiece, and was displayed in a prominent place in the home—usually the parlour.
Prices increased over the period the Pequegnats were in business but ranged from four dollars for the Midget to seven dollars for the simple round Toronto model, to $112 for the Alberta floor model in mahogany. The wide variety of designs and relatively low prices appealed to many Canadians. Today, the appeal of these timepieces remains as Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors.
This, the Moncton, is the seventh Arthur Pequegnat clock in my collection. This clock is named after a city in the province of New Brunswick (Canada). It is only fitting that Pequegnat supplied clocks to the railway as Moncton was once a rail hub for the Canadian National Railway.
This clock is in good condition overall. It has a 12 inch Arabic dial with simple, bold numbers. The pierced spade hands are attractive and are a feature on many Pequegnat wall clocks. It has a fumed quarter-sawn oak case, is 35 inches high with a hinged 16 inch oak bezel door that swings to the right to reveal the dial. The drop door is 14 ½ inches high by 10 ¾ inches wide and also swings to the right. The clock is 5 inches deep with wall stabilizers on either side of the case. The pendulum bob is brass over iron with an oak pendulum rod. The dial glass appears to be original and has the “waviness” you would expect with glass that is over 80 years old.
View of lower case
Although the lower glass has the same waviness it appears to have been changed out early in the clocks life as the retaining rails look to be replacements. Unfortunately, it is missing the label. Other minor issues are a small scratch on the dial face that is visible when the light is right and a screw hole on the back panel just below the beat plate to secure the clock to the wall. Evidently the stabilizers were not used.
This clock was made after 1916. Those made prior to that date were inscribed “Berlin” (Ontario) on the dial. On 1 January 1917, anti-German sentiments in Canada during the First World War spurred residents of Berlin, Ontario to change the city’s name to Kitchener. This is the only definitive way of dating a Pequegnat clock so, this clock would be between 80 and 100 years old. The Moncton wall clock was manufactured almost as long as the company was in existence.
The Moncton is a 15-day time-only clock with two winding arbours on the dial face. This is achieved by means of two mainsprings both of which are wound at the beginning of the running cycle releasing their power together. Two other wall clocks, the Regina and the King Edward (variant) were also available with a 15-day double spring movement. However, unlike most spring driven clocks that have recoil escapements this movement has a Graham deadbeat escapement which contributes to its accuracy. The seconds hand is not a true second hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. As a testament to its accuracy and dependability many of these clocks were ordered as train station clocks across Canada.
Two winding arbours for double spring time-only movement
The “Moncton” came in two basic styles. One was made for Canadian National Railways and was five centimeters (two inches) shorter than the regular model. Some such as this one, were fitted with a seconds hand on a separate dial above the main hands. This feature is also found on the Regulator I which was Pequegnat’s most accurate model. The 1st Issue was 33 1/4 inches high by 15 1/2 inches wide with the triangular bottom. The 2nd issue of the clock has a height of 33 1/4 inches and a width of 16 inches with a centre cut rounded bottom. The 2nd issue clock is also found with cases that measure 35 inches in height such as this one.
Moncton first issue, Roman Numeral dial
The “Moncton” was first featured in the 1913 catalogue and the again in the 1918, 1920 to 1925 Wall Clock catalogues and Pequegnat’s final catalogue put out in 1928.
The Moncton closely resembles the Seth Thomas #2 in size and shape down to the seconds hand, 80BPM and beat plate but unlike the #2, the Moncton is spring driven. The Moncton was an alternative to the #2 which was a well made American regulator but costlier and with a shorter running cycle.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
The seller tells me that the clock came from the north of Toronto (Ontario) and apologized for not knowing more about its history. He has had it for about 1 ½ years.
I removed the dial to inspect the movement. As expected it is large and heavy with solid plates mounted to an iron frame. It is not difficult to see that it was designed to be rugged and dependable. I did not check the back plate but judging from what I see on the front plate there appears to be little wear. The first wheel on the right side is the only one that has a newer bushing. Given its condition it was well cared for and did not have a hard life.
Large and heavy time-only movement
This clock has been on my wish list for some time.”Monctons” are up for sale from time to time, but they are getting harder to find. I have seen examples come and go but this one is in great shape and the time was right to add it to my collection.
This is Part I of a three part series on restoring this beautiful 1900s Mauthe wall clock.
This Victorian style German wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago. I found the clock on a local online for-sale site. It looked interesting but there was no price listed. I contacted the seller but they were asking considerably more than I was willing to pay. I explained the work that had to be done to the case, servicing of the movement and the fact that had it been in better condition they would easily receive more for the clock. I concluded the phone conversation with my top offer for the clock. They contacted me 4 days later and met my price.
Celluloid dial with brass centre pan
Open containers of Kerosene usually indicate that the owner thought the vapor would lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed
It is a (FMS) Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an Adler gong. I have been assured by the seller that the clock is original in every way and using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information I was provided. The eagle emblem on the Adler gong suggests that it was made after 1898.
The seller said the movement was maintained regularly. For years a small thimble of liquid was placed inside the clock to keep it lubricated though she could not recall what the liquid was. I said that this was a wide practice in the old days of keeping a clock movement lubricated, a folk remedy that might work but was not ideal. In fact, from about 1850 to 1920 roads were dirt, dust was everywhere, and people depended on their clocks. They routinely took the dial off and swabbed the movement out with kerosene. They often used a little brush, made with a few chicken feathers. Kerosene (paraffin) was available everywhere and, if used often, was probably an excellent way to rinse away the dust and at the same time oil the movement for a while. A little cup, a thimble or a greasy medicine bottle of kerosene was placed inside the clock case to maintain lubrication. Open containers of Kerosene indicate that the owner thought the vapor would slowly evaporate and lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed.
What to do about the case
The finish is alligorated. Alligorated finishes are those that have encountered heat damage and are characterized by a finish (shellac or lacquer) that softens and pools into globules collecting dirt as it re-hardens.
For this project I essentially have three options,
Leave the case as-is,
Attempt to dissolve the alligorating using a solution (see ingredients below) or
Strip the case down to the bare wood.
I eliminated the first option. The case is very unsightly.
On to option number 2. I first attempted to dissolve the alligorated finish using a mixture of turpentine, kerosene and white vinegar combined with #0000 steel wool and while I was able to soften the globules the surrounding area lightened considerably. The net effect was a blotchy finish.
While taking the glass panels out I noticed a residue of shellac on the edges of the glass panels, so, I was dealing not only with the original finish but whatever had been applied over the original finish.
On to the last option, stripping the case
To remove the finish I used EZ Strip, a non-caustic and Eco-friendly product. Though it was non-caustic I wore gloves and ensured that my workspace had good air flow. EZ Strip is jelly-like and relatively easy to work with. After allowing it to sit on the finish for 20-30 minutes it is ready to strip. Despite the ease of application it required rubbing and scrubbing to take off the original finish to the bare wood.
This is the finish when I received the clock
This is the crown before stripping,
The crown
And after.
The finish is removed from the crown
As the case is missing a trim piece on the upper part of the door I fashioned a piece from some cabinet trim. A new slotted wooden stabilizer that secures the crown to the case was constructed of softwood. This you cannot see but it ensures that the crown stays securely on the top of the case. Also missing is a corner piece on the left side of the upper crown. Cove moulding works well. I purchased a finial from Lee Valley and it worked well for this project.
Removing the old finish had an immediate effect. The grain of the walnut veneer that had been hidden all these years was finally exposed.
Case is stripped, awaiting sanding, stain and final finish
For the final finish I will use shellac prepared in the traditional way. This is my first experience with shellac flakes and it is best to begin with a light consistency called a 1 lb cut. This is approximately a 1:8 ratio of shellac to alcohol. Therefore, 1 oz (28g) of shellac is dissolved in 8 fl oz (236ml) of denatured alcohol. I plan to use a French polish technique and apply the shellac and a broad artists brush to coat the turned sections.
Why is it frustrating asking for advice on social media?
I posted my case restoration project on a popular online clock site. I was seeking advice on working with shellac and while I received good advice the discussion quickly morphed into a debate about whether or not it is ethical to strip a case. There was significant division. Those on one side said they would do very little but clean it up or take the objectionable dirt off the finish while the other side posited that if presented with a situation where the finish was so poor that you could not appreciate the beauty of the veneers, a stripping is an acceptable alternative. Although both arguments have merit some of the posters were somewhat indignant and considered it a heresy to do anything at all to a clock case. There will always be both sides of the argument and I respect that.
See servicing of the movement and the final finishing of the case in Parts II and III, in the weeks to come.
At 2:00am Sunday morning, the 4th of November, set your clock one hour behind. That is, if you live in Canada. Your time change date may vary according to the country you live in. Consider yourself lucky if your your country does not observe this archaic convention.
If your country uses Daylight Saving Time (DST), you must change your clocks twice a year.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 wall clock
“Spring Forward – Fall Back” is a phrase most often heard in the USA and Canada. In North America the word “fall” is used to denote the season, while other English-speaking countries call it autumn. Set your clocks forward 1 hour in the spring at the start of DST (Daylight Saving Time), and 1 hour back in the fall when DST ends.
Records show that the phrase “spring forward, fall back” has been in use at least as far back as the early 20th century. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer, while sacrificing normal sunrise times.
When people ask about my clock collection their first comment is, “Do you have a cuckoo clock”. No, I say and their reply typically would be “You should have one!” I often wonder why folks think I should have one. I suppose many collectors have at least one in their collection. Now when they ask I can now say, “of course I do”.
sellers are interested in a sale and do not need to know anything about the clocks past
Thank you, Uncle Dave.
I have acquired most of my clocks at flea markets, auctions, word of mouth etc., even had a few given to me but I know little about their history. The sellers are interested in a sale and do not need to know anything about the clocks past; unfortunate but it is what it is.
This is not any old cuckoo clock. This one is especially important……to me at least. This one can actually talk to me. I’ll explain.
My cousin Dave (we called him Uncle) died in 2017and his family knew that he loved his cuckoo clock. Rather than give or sell it to a stranger they decided to hand it over to the family clock guy…..me! Dave was related through my father’s father and has a cottage next door to ours in the province of Quebec. Dave was a helluva a guy and he would do anything for you. He loved life and cherished it to the end.
From time to time you will find service dates written or stamped inside vintage or antique clock cases. These dates give you an indication of the age of the clock and how well it was cared for over the years
In the early 1970s, he and his wife went to Germany for a tour, returned to Canada and regretted not buying a German cuckoo clock. So, he promptly went to the Cuckoo Clock Shop in Ottawa (our nation’s capital) and bought one. He also wanted it in running order. Over the years whenever it stopped he had it promptly repaired.
Back of clock
he history of an object is a window to its past. This clock is a common 30-hour cuckoo clock made in West Germany in July of 1975 (photo below).) and thousands of these were made and sold all over the world. It has a Regula movement, still made to this day. Regula movements are made by SBS-Feintechnik, and are dated by a letter code. This one has the letter “V” which indicates that it was made in 2007.
German made 30-hour cuckoo clock
The clocks complete service history is recorded on the back panel. When I opened the back access door to inspect the movement and the condition of the bellows I found all the dates when the cock was brought in for repair. From time to time you will find service dates written or stamped inside vintage or antique clock cases. These dates give you an indication of the age of the clock and how well it was cared for over the years.
Detailed service history behind the access panel
Oct 10, 1978, clean oil adjust, major repair
Sept 22, 1988, CXO (clean and oil) adjusted by “AO”
October 30, 1990, new movement, repair by “AO”
Jan 1996, 5996 (job #) clean, oil & adjust
April 27, 2007, 9869 (job #) new movement and chains
From the service records, I observed that the clock is on its third movement. It is often simpler (and cheaper) to replace the movement in a cuckoo clock rather than to repair it. Attempting to repair a cuckoo clock is very time consuming, frustrating, and costly. In addition, if the entire clock had to be shipped, the case usually incurs extensive damage as it makes its travels. This is the reason most clockmakers no longer accept most cuckoo clocks for repair.
Regula 1-day movements typically cost less than CDN120. The cost of servicing a two-train clock locally is CDN225 and up, so, replacing the movement is a logical decision.
Cuckoo clock bellows on left and right.
I oiled the movement, installed the weights and now it is a lovely little 1-day clock that dutifully cuckoos on the hour.
We have a number of clocks in our summer cottage and my wife and decided that that is where it should hang. Everyone who visits marvels at the sound of the cuckoo clock, it is so distinctive. Now they say, “that’s a nice cuckoo clock, where did you get it?”.
It is not perfect. Sadly at some point in every cuckoo clock’s life, it needs the bellows replaced and these bellows are brittle and in poor condition. A cuckoo clock that does not cuckoo is, well, just another clock! The bellows is a cottage project for next summer.
I posted Part I of a four-part article on this curious schoolhouse clock recently. In this, Part II I discuss the what I like and what frustrates me about this project.
I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it. I thought long and hard about what my next steps should be and considered advice from friends and family.
Do absolutely nothing,
Discard the case, buy a donor case and install the parts I have or,
“Preserve” it, that is, not change it in a significant way but have a working clock.
I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to proceed differently
The good stuff: The dial face is definitely showing its age. There is rust and pitting throughout but the Roman Numerals are fairly clear despite some fading. The Waterbury trademark is visible on the dial just above the centre arbour. The spade hands appear to be original, though rusted. The time and strike movement is intact sans suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob. There is a Waterbury trademark on the front plate of the movement with a patent date of September 22, 1874. Just how long Waterbury used this movement deserves some research but the clock works look to be from the 1890s. The coil gong is clearly marked Waterbury. The bottom line; there is strong evidence that the movement, dial, bezel, clock hands, and coil gong are all from the same clock.
When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered that it was twice as heavy as it should be
Plywood was not available as a general building material until 1928
The frustrating stuff: When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered just how heavy it was. Makers go to great lengths to make clocks as light as possible; this one is very hefty. The backboard and front face are constructed of ½ inch plywood. Plywood would not have been available in the 1890s or even some years afterwards. The centre frame appears to be 3/4 inch board. The movement sits high on a block of wood to bring the arbours closer to the dial but the result is that they protrude too far above the face. Robertson and Phillips screws (the former invented 1909, the latter in 1932) are used everywhere. The “newer” case is very sturdy and would likely last a long time but weighs twice as much as it should. It is an interesting homemade case.
Plywood construction, twice as heavy as a typical clock case should be
The handyman, be it my grandfather or someone who it was passed on to certainly had the best of intentions. The original pieces such as the dial, movement etc. were retained but the original case was discarded. My grandparents were poor and lived modestly. In those days if things wore out folks would go to great lengths to keep them running often resorting to home repairs with materials at hand. The goal was functionality not aesthetics.
The movement, coil gong, dial face, bezel and hands are all from the same clock
Four screw holes were drilled into the original brass dial bezel and at one point in its life it was painted red. The bezel would have been originally hinged to the front face of the clock. The dial glass is missing, perhaps discarded after it broke. Aside from the 4 screws holding the dial bezel, I counted 20 more screw holes once I lifted up the bezel.
Lastly, the short drop section is without an access door.
Next steps: I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to take another course of action.
The dial, bezel, movement and coil gong are the important mechanical bits which are in good shape. Missing are the suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob, all easily available through any clock supplier. The movement wheels run free and the mainsprings are good; all the parts are there aside from those mentioned above and there is no reason why it should not run reliably after cleaning and servicing.
The clock is waiting for me on my cousins kitchen table
The case is what it is, it is part of my history, part of my family history. It will be sanded and stained dark walnut followed by a clear topcoat. I will affix a brass plaque in memory of my grandfather and proudly hang it on the wall.
But first: The first order of business is to clean up the clock including the brass dial face sections. Next, buy new glass for the dial and a hinge for the bezel plus the movement parts that are required. Finally, I will fashion a new drop door using old wood from a donor clock.
And that’s where it ends. It can be no more than what it is.
It may not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 70 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.
The clock is now on my project bench and I will post two more blog articles in November detailing the steps towards preserving this interesting clock.
Photo of my grandfather’s clock sent to me by my cousin
I’ve thought about this clock, dreamt about it, wondering where it was all these years…….and now I have it. Now, what do I do?
I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. After church on Sundays, my father would take us kids by for a visit; it was a weekly ritual. The house was stone quiet except for the sound of a clock ticking loudly in the kitchen. My grandfather was a veteran of WWI and was bothered by certain noises but did not mind the sound of a mechanical clock.
When I was a kid in the 1950s it looked gigantic and for some curious reason, it was painted yellow with red trim. What did I know, I thought old clocks came in all sorts of colours.
My grandfather, William George Joiner, taken during WWI
But he loved that clock. There is a story that my grandfather was fanatical about keeping the clock on time; he would constantly compare the time to his pocket watch and make adjustments, sometimes several times a day. They left the house on Olmstead Street in Eastview (now Vanier, Ontario, Canada) several years before his death and the clock was passed to a son (my uncle) and eventually handed down within his family. My grandfather passed away in 1962.
Movement is essentially intact except for the suspension spring, rod and pendulum.
A year ago I decided to track down the clock and learned that it had stayed within the family. My cousin sent a photo of the clock but upon examining it I could see that something was not quite right. It was missing parts, it looked pretty rough and that case looked homemade. At that time I replied,
Yes, it is indeed a Waterbury time and strike clock. Your description of it as a school clock is correct though it would not have been called a schoolhouse clock at the time. It would have been sold as an office clock. The patent date tells us that the clock was made after 1874 but likely manufactured in the 1890s to 1900.
In clock circles it would be described as a time and strike 8-day octagonal short drop wall clock, Roman Numeral dial face with spade hands. From the photo I can see that it is missing the pendulum (as you said) the hinged wooden drop access door which would have had a glass tablet and the brass/glass bezel which would have covered the dial. I assume these items are long gone.
It also appears to have been in a damp environment judging from the tarnished brass and the fact that the rust from the iron nails has bled through the wood. However, it is not unusual for a clock of this age to be in such a condition. I have seen far worse.
At a recent family get-together, my cousin said that if I wanted the clock I could have it. Yes, I said and I brought it home thinking about my next steps with my new clock project.
There are 4 posts in this series. Part II is in 4 days. In Part II I consider those next steps. Parts III and IV will be in November.
Chinese time and strike wall clock that seller calls a grandfather clock
Antique Grandmother Clock in Immaculate Condition
I am selling my wife’s grandmother clock because it does not suit the decor of our new home. She has treasured this antique for years and doesn’t want to part with it. Please make my execution as painless as possible and buy this clock quickly. Keeps perfect time and has no scratches on the cabinet.
This ad will be removed when I am executed…………..actually just before ,,,,,so purchase this clock now
This is a Chinese clock with a calendar feature, circa the 1960s. The ad refers to it as an antique. It is not!. Vintage, perhaps. The ad refers to it as a grandmother clock. It is not!
Grandmother clock by CraftLine circa 19780; a little shorter than a grandfather clock
The seller is asking $150, five times more than it is worth. It’s probably fairly reliable, looks well cared for and I would take it if it were given to me.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, questions about its origin, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
Mauthe time and strike box clock
RC writes,
“I was looking online for information on the exact Mauthe Box clock you have. I am going through my late fathers estate & trying to find out what it’s worth. It belong to my great uncle and passed onto my dad. Every since I was a little boy I can remember this clock being at my great uncles home.
Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated. I have attached a picture of the clock.”
This is my box clock.
Mauthe time and strike Box clock
My reply,
“You have a time and strike box clock. These have excellent movements and should run for years. A servicing would be due, however.
It might have the 3-rod “Divina gong” which, according to the standard German reference, Hans-Heinrich Schmid’s (2005) Lexikon der Deutschen Uhrenindustrie 1850-1980, is a Mauthe trade-name registered in 1912. It would have a pleasant two-tone, bim-bam sound. Unmarked box clocks like mine were likely sold as a Solar house brand by Eatons. Your is marked and was likely bought from a jeweler.
Thousands of German “box clocks” were made in the first third of the 20th century. The box clock replaced the classic “Vienna Regulator” after the First World War and reflected a minimalist approach to clock design. Most were made in Germany. I would date your to about the 1930s.
The following is excerpted from one my blog posts.
Mauthe clocks have had a long and illustrious history in Germany. In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. At the end of the 1860s Mauthe began to produce their own wall clocks (and movements). The Mauthe sons Christian (1845-1909) and James (1847-1915) took over in 1876. In 1886 Mauthe began manufacturing its own springs. Around 1900, alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks and so called “Buffet Uhren” or “Buffet clocks” were offered. In 1904 the 3rd generation took over (Eugene Schreiber (1877-1939) – son of Christian Mauthe, Dr. Fritz Mauthe (1875-1951) – son of Jacob and Mauthe Alfred (1879-1911) – son of Jacob Mauthe to build on the base of the company.
In 1925 Mauthe announced a new trademark. It shows a right-looking eagle with outstretched wings, holding in its talons a three-part round plate with the letters F, M and S.
In the 1930s the company at its peak produced about 45.000 clocks per week. About 60% were produced for export markets such as England. In the Mid-30s Mauthe started to manufacture their first wrist watches and some were supplied to the German Army (“Wehrmacht”). From 1946 on Mauthe re-started with the production of wrist watches. Shortly after that the company eventually fell into decline.
As to value, Mauthe wall clocks are currently in the $200 and $500 range depending on condition. A serviced clock would fetch more.
I would clean it up, service it and proudly display it.”
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
GJ writes
“My name is GJ and I live in Lancashire, England. When my father died I ended up with this clock! It works so we put it up on the hall wall for a while and years later redecorated and the clock no longer has a home, it just does not fit in with the surroundings. However, somebody will love it, but we don’t know who to contact in order to find someone who would buy it with a view to using it. Do you have any contacts in England that we could offer it to? It is a forlorn hope, but we have to try.”
My reply,
“High GJ. Thanks for coming to my blog. What you have is a New Haven American Victorian drop clock (made in USA). It is a time and strike clock which means that it strikes the appropriate time on the hour and strikes once on the half hour. It looks like it has good wood inlay and the dial face is original but you are missing two carved side wings and the original reversed painted glass door which would affect its value. I would keep it for sentimental reasons but it sounds like you are ready to part with it. I do not have any contacts in England but you could try Gumtree, eBay or your local clock-maker.”
GJ writes back.
“Hello again, Ron. Thank you for your reply. I will try to find a good home for my clock. Actually, now it has been dusted it looks a lot better! Thanks again for your information and help.”
The Tempus Fugit Clock Company must be doing exceptionally well. Tempus Fugit clocks are everywhere, online for-sale sites, eBay, Kijiji and the like. Type “Tempus Fugit” in the eBay search box and dozens of wall clocks, grandfather clocks and mantel clocks will pop up.
Not only can the Tempus Fugit clock-makers pump out quality clocks they have also maintained a level of quality that is unmatched in the industry
The other day I found this 32″ clock (next photo) for the paltry sum of $30. What a deal! A truly inexpensive entry point for an exquisitely designed Tempus Fugit clock made by some of the worlds foremost craftsmen that you can add to your collection today.
A Tempus Fugit clock on an online for-sale site for only $30
Tempus Fugit clock-makers pump out quality clocks and they have also maintained a level of quality that is unmatched in the industry.
The factory is located in Timeville, Canada. I had a chance to visit the factory this spring and was able to converse with the owners, I said to Mr. Tempus and Mr. Fugit, “Your building could use a paint job”, to which Mr Fugit replied, “Don’t worry about it, clock-making is our strength”
Tempus Fugit Clock Co. factory in Timeville Canada
They graciously permitted me to install C and AA batteries in some of the movements on the factory floor. What a thrill! I really got a charge out of it. The 40,000 sq ft 400 sq ft factory floor is abuzz with activity. Placards of inspiration are everywhere such as “Time is on your side”, Time marches on” and “Time Flies”. The company also makes mechanical clocks. Here, a worker has all the movement parts laid out prior to assembly.
Putting it all together at Tempus Fugit
Gustav Becker and E. Howard might be great names in the clock world but Tempus Fugit always rises above them.
Anyway, back to repairing and restoring clocks. As they say at Tempus Fugit, “Time Flies” ……..or is it “Time Flees”?
My Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator wall clock is 51 inches in length. It is a 2-weight regulator that runs on an eight day cycle. In order to bring the weights up I must open the access door and insert the winding crank into the arbours on the clock face. I then raise the weights to their highest safe level. During the process of opening the access door and winding the clock there is always the risk of moving the clock, disrupting the level thus creating a condition where it is out-of-beat. In short the stabilizers, located on each side, keep the case from shifting while winding the clock.
Clock-makers provided stabilizers on many clocks so that they would not move during regular winding or remain stable in the event of vibration or shock (accidentally bumping into it).
The stabilizer is usually about an inch in length, has a knurled brass knob on one end and is mounted on a brass or steel plate which is then fixed to the back of the clock case by means of wood screws.
Brass stabilizer
This is the right stabilizer on my Gustav Becker.
Right stabilizer
Junghans Crispi wall clock showing one of the stabilizers
If you find two small holes on either side of the back and near the bottom of the case of a wall clock you can bet that you are missing the wall stabilizers. You can order them from any clock supply house.
They not only complete the look of a wall clock but are functional as well. A very simple solution to a potentially frustrating problem.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
CM writes,
4 and 5 prong keys and singles
“Hello, I just read your article about keys for wind-up clocks. I have a parlor clock that belonged to my parents. It is on the wall, has a pendulum & requires winding. I believe that it is from the early 1980’s. And made by The Time Mfg. Co. However, I do not have a key – seems that it was lost prior to my getting it. Can you tell me what kind of key I need to get for it? And do you have any that would fit my clock that I could purchase? Thank you so much & have a great day.”
My reply,
“Hi CM. Thanks for coming to my blog. If it is made in the 1980s it is likely Chinese or Korean but it is hard to tell unless I see a photo. If I am correct these are 31 day movements. You could measure the arbours which will tell you the size but it likely takes a #6 or a #8 key which you can find here.”
I have always had a fascination with clocks. As a young boy I can remember the schoolhouse clock in my grandparents’ kitchen and the ticking sound it would make that echoed through the entire house.
Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock, circa 1913
We all have busy lives and despite my interest in clocks over the years it was not until the year 2000 that I started building my collection, first with a Seth Thomas Adamantine clock and later with more mantel clocks, wall clocks and finally a grandfather clock in 2012. My collection has expanded to include virtually every style of clock though my interest lies specifically with American and European wall and shelf clocks. As I write there are about 35 clocks ticking away in my home.
In my blog I stress that I am not a trained horologist but have accumulated enough knowledge over the years that I feel capable of addressing general clock issues
Clock repair came a little later. I began with general understanding of the cleaning and oiling of clock movements in order to keep my little collection running. As I acquired clock repair tools and equipment I progressed to servicing pinions, bushings, verge repairs, cleaning of mainsprings and case restoration.
In 2015 I decided to write a blog about collecting and servicing vintage and antique clocks. There are some excellent clock blogs but many are commercial sites or professional horologists selling their services. I decided to design a blog that would appeal to the amateur clock collector/repairer. In my blog I stress that I am not a trained horologist but have accumulated enough knowledge over the years that I feel capable of addressing general clock issues. Therefore, my blog is not aimed at the professional repairer or restoration expert but the individual looking for specific information about a certain clock, those who have a particular problem with their clock and finally those who have a general interest in clock collecting and repair.
Fully restored Junghans time and strike wall clock, circa 1899
Time and strike movement on a test stand after servicing
I publish an average of seven blog articles per month on a variety of clock topics. I appeal to a wide change of subjects; some articles have a philosophical perspective, some detail the challenges of working on a specific clock, some present simple repair techniques for the beginner, general maintenance tips as well as articles of general interest. As a history buff I try to include a background history or provenance of the specific clock I am profiling or information about its maker.
A micrometer is used to size a bushing for an escape wheel pivot
Blogging has also allowed me to combine my other interests, that of photography and traveling. My wife and I have had many interesting adventures seeking out unique clocks for my collection.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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