I wrote about this clock in 2015. The Canadian Time clock was made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock company of Kitchener, Ontario. The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors and often command high prices on online for-sale sites.
Former railway clock from a station in Pictou County, Nova Scotia (Canada)Label on back board
The clock was made after 1917 in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada). Clocks made before 1917 had the word “Berlin” on the dial face. Kitchener was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlinfrom 1854 until 1912 and the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the decision was made to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario. Though it is impossible to determine the exact year this clock was made my guess is just prior to 1941 before the company closed it’s doors.
It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement
The clock was purchased in Sept 2013 and after 3 1/2 years it is overdue for servicing.
Movement showing punch marks (arrows)
It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement, specifically around the pivot holes as one would expect. I am one of those who believe that a punch should never be used on a clock movement. Most, including myself, would consider it a quick and easy shortcut that is not designed to extent the life of the clock in any appreciable manner. Because punching weakens the side wall of the pivot hole those two pivot holes in particular are prime examples of the need for bushings. In total the clock required 5 bushings. The second wheel pivot hole was worn the most. One back plate bushing was required for the escape wheel arbour.
Time only movement
Time only movement are relatively simple to work on and for the novice this is the first kind of movement you should tackle. Whenever working on a clock be sure to take as many photos as you can; you will need them if you get stuck re-assembling the movement. On this clock the 3rd and 4th wheels look exactly the same but in fact differ slightly in height. Photos taken at the right angles will easily confirm the difference.
Mainspring cleaned and inspected
A strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock; additional screw holes
The mainspring is in excellent condition and might have been a replacement at some point in the clock’s life. I had some difficulty re-hooking the arbour to the spring and had to use pliers to bend it, but just a little.
I found one strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock. There are additional screw holes in the back board leading me to believe that the clock might have had another type of Pequegnat movement which would mean that the current movement is a replacement. Possible reasons, a catastrophic failure of the original movement, a conversion from a time and strike movement to a time-only clock (requiring a new dial) – it is anyone’s guess. A mystery nonetheless.
Servicing this clock took less than a day. Testing takes a couple of weeks. With new bushings in place and an oiling this clock should run reliably for years to come.
I began keeping a detailed log of clock repairs noting, in particular, when the movement was last oiled so that I do not wait too long between inspection and oiling.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
This is a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock made in Forestville Conn. The first year of production for this model was 1927. This particular clock was made in October of 1930 and features minor improvements to parts of the chime / strike train. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced this and 51 other models of mechanical clocks, ranging from Advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or regulator clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors.
Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem
JD writes. “I stumbled across your WordPress blog about your Sessions Westminster clock and thought I’d reach out as I’m in the process of finally getting mine running. Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem. The hourly chimes work great. Full Westminster, then the correct number of hour strikes. The half hour chimes are also correct. The problem is that the quarter hour & three-quarter chimes are reversed. The quarter hour has 12 notes and the three-quarter hour has only 4. I haven’t even taken the movement out of it’s case yet, and at this point I’m just trying to figure out what the problem might be, and how complicated it may be to resolve it. This is one of about a dozen old clocks that my father had in his collection when he passed away, all of which I had been led to believe were non-functional. I’ve got ten of them running and would like to get an idea what I’m up against with this peculiar problem. Thanks in advance for any insight you may be able to offer.”
Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931
Co-incidentally I have been working on the same clock. Mine also had issues with the strike and chime sequence. I received JDs letter prior to working on my Westminster A mantel clock so I could not advise him on his specific issue but hope to share my experience with him once I have completed work on it.
The Sessions Westminster A mantel clock was made in Forestville Connecticut, USA. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or “Regulator” clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. Having a unique and innovative design, the Westminster A is particularly sought after.
Westminster mainspring
My reply was. ” Thanks for your letter JD. I have yet to tackle this clock and know that it is not a good clock for the novice clock repair person to work on. If you have the skill-sets to have worked on other clocks then you are prepared for this one. I have attached a detailed guide which will help you through the servicing of this clock. It was prepared by Robert Croswell a member of NAWCC. One thing I should mention. The clicks are very weak on this clock and click failures are common. I need not remind you that when clicks fail they may also take parts of a clock with them. If you decide to tear it apart, do yourself a favour and replace the clicks. I have a number of clocks that I have to service before I get to the Westminster A. Let me know how you are progressing with the clock and any insights you can pass along to me.”
Drum and hammers on a unique two train chiming clock
I attached Robert Croswell’s excellent manual called Taming the Sessions 2-Train clock.
JD wrote back, “Thank you very much for the reply, and especially for the very helpful guide. I also asked the question on JustAnswer.com and received a helpful response from a clock repairer who said that the chime correction cam that is behind the locking plate needs to be rotated 180 degrees after it chimes the 12 notes, to the 3/4 hour position. As I said, I haven’t even removed it from the case yet so I just wanted to get an idea how involved the repair might be before I take any action. Now I have an idea where to focus my attention, and I can at least remove it from the case and examine it to fully understand the working of the chiming mechanism. Not sure if I’m up to tearing it apart quite yet, especially since it is running well for the most part. The resource you provided will no doubt prove very helpful to my learning process. I’ll let you know if I manage to resolve the issue and of course, anything I learn along the way. Thanks again.”
I will be sharing my experience with JD once I have the clcok running as it should. I have assembled the clock and in the process of testing the time side. Although the racks and snails (there are 2) are reinstalled I have not yet managed to have the time properly aligned. Once I have determined that the going train will run it’s full cycle I will focus on adjustments to the strike and chime side racks and snails.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
WC writes. “Hello Ron. I enjoy your blog. I came across it by investigating a repair for my Chelsea Vanderbilt ships bell mantel clock, passed along from my Grandfather’s estate. I was hoping you could give me some advice on a repair issue. 2 1/2 years ago I shipped the clock to Chelsea in Massachusetts for factory overhaul. Six or seven weeks later the clock was returned, and has functioned beautifully, after 15 or 20 years of dormancy.
Yesterday I went to wind the clock side on the usual schedule of once a week, and the key spun violently backwards in my hand.There is now no tension in the winding port, I suspect the spring has snapped. The basic overhaul charge was nearly $500, and the warranty was 2 years parts/ maintenance. Since there is no consultation available with Chelsea, I am reluctant to ship the clock back for additional repair, not knowing what on earth they would charge me again, as another $500 would rock the boat on this end. I could investigate names of clock-maker/ clock repair sites in the greater Bay Area, where I live. Is this Chelsea that challenging of a repair?
The clock holds some sentimental value, but surely not enough to lose sleep over. Thank you, your thoughts are greatly appreciated.”
Similar to clock in this article
I wrote to WC and explained to him that I have not worked on one but I do know that this is not a clock that a novice or intermediate repair person would tackle. One of the issues is that only those who are authorized to repair them have access to the parts since Chelsea places limits on parts distribution so that they can perform repairs in-house. I explained that he may be experiencing a failed click. These movements are more prone to click return spring failure than main spring failure. Oftentimes when a click fails it takes other parts with it, i.e. secondary damage. However, the design of this clock makes it easy to take out either spring without disturbing anything else. If the click has let go and nothing else is damaged I advised him that he can fix the mainspring and click on his own or take it to a competent repair person in the area where he lives to effect the repair as long as it does not require additional parts. If the issue is limited to a failed click the repair cost would be far less than a more extensive repair.
The issue is whether or not Chelsea will stand by their warranty. WC has since corresponded with Chelsea and has sent the clock in for repair. They will assess what needs to be done and will consider the fact that it is just off warranty.
Let’s hope there is a happy ending to WCs plight and that Chelsea takes a reasonable approach in dealing with WC.
Last week I wrote that I was in the process of deciding whether or not to purchase this Swiss made Jaeger LeCoultre musical alarm clock. I saw it in an antique store in Langford, BC (Canada) and went away thinking about it. I had several questions in my mind as I walked away.
The seller was asking CDN199; a fair price?
Is it collectible?
I would like to narrow the vintage, the year it was made, thoughts?
I ended up not buying this clock for three reasons
3 days later the same seller decided that he wanted CDN299 and would not negotiate a lower price.
An extensive search on all auction sites plus clock related sites revealed no references to this clock although I have no doubt that it is a Jaeger LeCoultre. That leads me to believe that it is not as desirable as other LeCoultre alarm clocks.
I question the ethics of an antique dealer where half or more of the items on the floor have no price tag.
How do I feel about passing up this clock? The seller did not get my money! It would have nice to have, but more opportunities to find a similar clock will come along and likely from an ethical seller.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
Stromberg Carlson master clock
DP writes to me and asks what the lever does on the anchor (left arrow) and what happens if you move it one way or the other. He also asked about the purpose of the slot as indicated by the right arrow. The right part of the photo refers to a lower part of the clock.
Well, first of all what is DP referring to. This is a Stromberg Carlson master clock manufactured in 1947. Stromberg Carlson was a telecommunications equipment and electronics manufacturing company in the United States, formed in 1894. It was one of five companies that controlled the national supply of telephone equipment until after World War II.
A master clock is a precision clock that provides timing signals to synchronize slave clocks as part of a network of clocks. Networks of electric clocks connected by wires to a precision master pendulum clock began to be used in institutions like factories, offices, and schools around 1900. Many of you might recall the Simplex clock in your classroom which was but one slave clock among dozens in your school all physically connected to one clock, the master clock.
I do not have a particular expertise in Electric horology and asked him if I could consult within my clock circles.
Later on that day I responded. “Regarding your question (s), I gather you know that you have a master clock from which any number of slaves are run. The arrow on the left appears to be a contact activator similar to what one one might find on an IBM master clock, for 2 second contacts to advance slave clocks at a fast rate of impulse every two seconds. The slot on the right looks like it would be for an anchoring screw.”
Stromberg Carlson movement
DPs response. “As you can see in this other clock mechanism that it doesn’t have that lever so yours is a good explanation. There is 6351-M stamped on my clock mechanism. However, the clock itself is not in its original configuration. I was told that originally it was used as a master clock in a school to control all the other clocks. I was told that an electrical engineer reworked it so that it would run off of house current. Too bad that he didn’t leave it the way it was originally. You can tell from the holes in the back wooden panel and now an occupied ceramic insulator that the was much more to it.”
As DP states, his clock was converted. In fact many were converted from 20VDC to 110 volts AC. Presumably a safer way to run the clock but unfortunate because it takes away some authenticity.
In answering DPs question I have now expanded my knowledge of electro-mechanical clocks.
Saint Patrick’s Day – it is only fitting to feature a Smiths Enfield mantel clock that came all the way from Ireland
Starting Tuesday, March 21st I will feature a regular blog called Tick-Talk Tuesday.
The purpose of the blog is twofold, the first, to talk about letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face as well as my responses to your questions and my advice on your clock issues and concerns. The second purpose is a place for you, the reader, to profile your favorite clock or a clock that has presented a particular challenge for you.
The focus will be on you, the reader
So, the focus will be on you, the reader and contributor. Most of the comments and questions are ones that I have received privately but to preserve anonymity I will not mention names. To profile your clock, simply send me photos and a description (my contact email is ronjoiner@gmail.com) and I would be more than happy to present your prized clock to the many readers of this blog. Although privacy is important, let me know if you do not mind having your name published.
I am looking forward to this feature and between us it should be very informative.
Jaeger LeCoultre clocks are a favorite among collectors
Jaeger LeCoultre alarm clock
Jaeger LeCoultre clocks are a favorite among collectors of high-end luxury timepieces, often bringing in hundreds of thousands of dollars at auction. Jaeger LeCoultre to this day produces high quality desk clocks and watches in addition to their famous line of Atmos clocks.
I was in an antique shop in Victoria, BC recently and I must confess that I have never seen so many antique and vintage clocks in one place outside a museum. (I’ll cover those in a future blog article)
There were so many French and American mantel and wall clocks that I went by this diminutive clock twice before stopping to take a more careful look. On the clock face it says LeCoultre and underneath the base there is a label that says Faust Waltz, the musical tone of this alarm clock.
It is small but substantial in weight. It is an authentic 8-day gilt or lacquered bronze Swiss made clock from about the 1960s to 1970s though it may be earlier. There are no obvious dents or scratches on the case and no marks on the glazing although I did not have enough time to examine it more closely. I have no idea whether or not it is in complete working order but the fact that music box functions is encouraging.
Rear of clock showing winding key for the music box on the lower left
Unfortunately I was taking shots with low light and using a flash would have attracted too much attention from the owner. The quality is not up to my usual standards.
I am in the process of deciding whether or not to make the decision to buy this clock. In the meantime I have several questions:
The seller is asking CDN199; a fair price?
Is it collectible?
I would like to narrow the vintage, the year it was made, thoughts?
There are plenty of different styles of LeCoultre alarm clocks on the net but I could only find one photo of this particular clock. Either it is rare and desirable or uncommon and not worth considering. I hope it is the former.
“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump
Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgement based on images, many of which are poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. There are stories of people buying clocks online only to find that the clock they thought had a antique mechanical movement arrived with a quartz one.
There are many challenges facing the clock shopper in today’s online world. Once your interest is piqued you may ask yourself these questions:
Did I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
Will it work when I get it home?
What do I have to do to fix whatever might be wrong?
What did the seller not disclose?
There are accepted rules about buying clocks on online for-sale sites. Online for-sale sites are ubiquitous and in many countries in the world. Here is an example of rules that are found on a particular site that I frequent.
All transactions should take place in person with cash. Do not ship items and do not accept other payment methods.
Never click links in an email that ask you to sign in to xxxx. All “Your xxxx account has expired” emails are fakes.
xxxx, eBay and PayPal do not offer buyer or seller protection for xxxx items. Such emails are fakes.
But for more specific rules on how to buy that special clock you were always looking for, see Ron’s Rules at the end of this post.
Follow this exchange between myself and the seller and consider my thoughts on this and other online clock purchases later in the article.
The clock
Unknown mantel or shelf clock.
Actual Ad photo
The exact words of the ad
Wind up alabaster clock. Very heavy. $80.00
The email exchange between myself and the seller
NOTE: This particular online for-sale site has an encrypted email service, therefore in my exchange I do not know the seller’s actual email address. This is a necessary protection for both parties.
Me
Do you know the company that made the clock and how old it is? Thanks
From the wording of the ad I am assuming at this point that the seller knows very little about the clock
Seller
Sorry I don’t know who made or how old it is. I bought it in an auction a few years back. Thanks xxxx
Me
Since you do not know the maker and I would have to drive from xxxxx, would you accept $60 for the clock.
Seller
Before you decide to drive from xxxxxx I would like you to know that the chimes do not work. I know that the clock would be worth more but 60.00 is fine if you would like to have it. Thanks xxxx. Let me know .
Me
If the chimes don’t work it is not a huge problem. Does it look like all the parts are there or is anything missing? I am still interested if the parts are there.
Seller
Everything is in tact. It was last serviced a few years back and worked great, but went to wind the chimes and they seemed to slip on the spring… However the clock still works just had it put away for a couple of years.
Me
For $60 I will buy it. How does 2pm today sound?
Seller
Yes we will make sure we are at home. Will you find the place OK? If not we could meet you part ways.
Later
I provided the seller with my telephone number. He subsequently calls to give me his address. The call is important because I suspect he wants to get a feel for who he is dealing with and that is the correct way to approach sales such as this.
Thoughts
It is important to be ready to pick the item up ASAP. You do not want to allow too much time for the seller to have second thoughts or to have someone else move in ahead of you. I often suggest meeting that same day, in a neutral place or at their home but most suggest meeting at their home. A neutral place is an option and I had to do this only once in over 2 dozen purchases.
My preliminary analysis based on the limited information that I have is that it is an French or English made time and strike shelf clock and judging from the problem on the “chime” side it might just be a bad click although it is possible that parts of the movement have been damaged. It is impossible to know until I see it and bring it home.
You might suggest I ask more questions about the clock or have the seller send additional photos of the movement or even a closeup of the clock face. It is only a $60.00 clock! In my experience once you attempt to have the seller take extra steps to sell their clock especially a clock at this price, the chances of a loss of sale increases. Were I to shell out hundreds of dollars I would definitely ask for more information and detailed, higher resolution photos.
Ron’s Rules
Locate the clock you are looking for online and try to avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31 day” clocks. (For some reason people think they are worth a lot of money and they are garbage – usually!)
Communicate by email and ask questions but not too many as to scare the seller off. Suggested questions might be:
Does the clock run?
Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
If it does not run, are all the pieces intact?
How old is it?
How long have you had it?
Would you accept a lower price because…….(justify reason(s))?
Arrange final meeting details by phone.
Meet the same day if possible.
Meet the seller in person.
Meeting at their home is preferred but a neutral location such as in front of a public building or in a mall is an option
Pay in cash.
Thank him/her for the sale.
Final thoughts
Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
Once, I gave the seller a day or two to think about my offer. I took a chance but got the clock for a decent price. (see first image)
Meeting the same day is crucial; you don’t want the seller to get cold feet and you don’t want someone coming behind you to buy the clock.
Only once did the seller accept a cheque from me because of past dealings with him. Cash is the rule.
If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal
My wife and I are in the mood for a road trip. Now, with cash in hand, let’s get into the car and go for a drive.
This is Part I of a multi-part blog wherein I explore the challenges of repairing a Sessions Westminster A tambour style time, strike and chime mantel clock. This part is the introduction.
Th Vintage Sessions Westminster A mantel clock
In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this most interesting clock.” Well the time is now.
Well, it’s been two years and I have looked at this clock often enough and wondered what it would be like to finally get it running. Time to take the plunge.
The Sessions Westminster A mantel clock was made in Forestville Connecticut, USA. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or “Regulator” clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home.
Some Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. The Westminster A is particularly sought after though collectors prefer it to be serviced and in running condition.
Raised Roman numerals and faux inlay
The case is in exceptional condition
The clock is tricky to repair and most horologists prefer to stay clear of it
This clock is 21 inches long and 10 inches high, has a mahogany finish with faux wood inlay and raised metal gold-coloured numerals on the dial face. It is a quarter-hour 8-day Westminster chime clock operating on two trains, the going train (time) with the strike and chime train combined. It also has small arbour just below the hour cannon to turn off the chimes/strike and is called “Silent Chime”. Sessions was not alone in producing two-train clocks and other makers incorporated this design later in the 1930’s and 1940’s. However, Sessions was probably the best known for this feature. This clock was sold in 1931 (inscription on label, back of access door). The sale price was $29.95 which would have been substantial considering a working man’s salary in those days.
Sessions Westminster chime drum
The clock is tricky to repair and horologists will generally try to stay away from it. I will be going through a step-by-step process and relying heavily on Robert Croswell’s excellent instructional manual called Taming the Sessions Two Train MovementFebruary 2016 edition.
In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this most interesting clock.”
I have done some bushing work and from what I can see there is certainly bushing work to be done. I have removed the movement once before to replace a bad click which as easy fix since the mainsprings can be removed without dis-assembly. The click holds the tension or power of the mainspring and is identified by a clicking sound when the key is turned. But the real challenge will begin as I attempt to understand how the chime mechanism works and if I can re-assemble it successfully.
Follow me as I dis-assemble, clean and repair the movement in Part II.
Occasionally, I receive private email from readers.
One reader asked why I dated the clock to 1950
I received a couple such emails regarding my Kienzle World Time clock and it prompted me to dig a little deeper into the origin of this unique clock.
The clock is substantial, measuring 13 and 3/4″ high, 10″ wide 2 and 1/2″ deep. It is certainly a singular work of elegance, style and a genuine stand-out in any room.
Vintage single train Kienzle World Time desk clock
One reader asked why I dated the clock to 1950.
I referred the reader to this article. The article suggested that the mechanical version of the World Time was introduced the late thirties. It had a healthy production run and there were several variations. Mine was “Made in Germany” (West Germany was created in 1949) and might have been manufactured on or before 1949 which would not have prevented it from selling in the 50s. For most of the ones advertised on Ebay, 1950 appears to be the most commonly cited year of manufacture though there are no specific markings regarding date of manufacture on my clock.
It was designed in 1939 and at least one clock was made that year
However, here is some additional information which suggests that although it was designed in 1939 at least one clock was made that year though it did not go into full production until much later.
A birthday present for an infamous leader of Germany
The first Kienzle World Time clock was presented to Adolf Hitler on his 50th birthday in 1939 by the government of Würthemberg. The classical design with the world map in the “Mercator” (cylindrical map projection) style and the moving narrow scale with the time in the denoted cities came from the, at that time, Heinrich Johannes Möller, a famous designer who was working for Kienzle from 1931 onward til 1970. Möller was hired at age 27 and became Kienzle’s principle designer. The original clock had a bulky “foot” or base and was decorated with swastika patterns on the edge. After the war, the decoration was altered, the base became smaller but the general layout of the dial was preserved through all permutations of the clock, from the early mechanical versions to the electro-mechanical version and finally the quartz movements in the 80s. A curious feature of the clock is that it shows Germany to be the centre of the world.
Kienzle 24 hour time sequencer
Back of Kienzle clock showing winder and speed adjustment
The World Time clock turned out to be a long standing model and was available to purchase up until the 1996 Kienzle bankruptcy. During the period that the World Time Clock was introduced (1939) Kienzle had more than 6500 employees and a production rate of 5 million clocks.
Through the later 50s and 60s Kienzle clocks lost their stylistic prominence and followed then current (international) stylistic influences but Heinrich Johannes Möller was a significant influence not only on the design of Kienzle clocks but in the clock world in general.
This year I decided to part with three of my vintage clocks. Rather than sell them which would have offset tool purchases, I decided that there is no better way than gifting them. I have three adult children (is that an oxymoron?) and it was a matter of allowing them to choose what clock they wanted out of several choices.
My oldest chose a vintage Sessions American No 2 shelf clock seen here.
Sessions American No 2 time and strike shelf (or mantel) clock
She loved the natural mission oak style and the simple lines. This clock required a little work before it was handed over to my daughter. A thorough cleaning of the movement as well as 5 new bushings and a new click on the strike side were required. There is similar American model made by Sessions, the No 1, which did not have the fluted columns. This one was made was around 1922 and was a very popular model for Sessions.
My second daughter chose a Sessions Raven time and strike mantel clock pictured here. It is also from the early 1920s.
Sessions Raven time and strike shelf clock
She liked the ebony finish, the sound of the strike, the simplicity of the lines as well as the 4 delicate columns and added that it would go great with her furniture as you can see in the photo below. I agree. This clock was serviced just before I received it about a year ago but I took the movement out, inspected it, oiled it and returned it to its case.
On display in my daughter’s living room
My son chose one of my earlier clocks, a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock circa 1960s. It was in very good condition for a Chinese clock though I took it apart, cleaned it and oiled it. Made in China clocks are practically bullet proof though due to their cheap construction they are prone to explode. Not the prettiest clock around but these things last a long time if you given them just a little care and attention.
Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock (bottom ornamental piece missing)
If you are a collector, why not gift your clocks to friends and family? Clocks are endearing memories by association. Children love receiving clocks from their parents not only because of their collectible value (perhaps) but as a keepsake, a reminder of good times and happy family memories. I am sure that every time they wind the clock they will think about that one or more happy occasions and if something goes wrong with their clock it provides an excellent excuse for dad and mum to visit! And we certainly will with tools in hand!
I am a retired college professor based in Nova Scotia Canada, live in a little village just outside Truro and collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest and of interesting clocks and clock stories that I encounter on my travels.
In the spring of 2015 I decided to write a blog about clocks. The first few months were a struggle to decide what material would be of interest to those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but those few with just a passing interest. As the months went by I began to realize that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and I discovered that there is a lot for me to learn. As I expand my knowledge of clock and collecting and repair I am also realizing that there is a lot I do not know.
This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the learning I have gained from the experience as well as talking about horological areas of interest.
My office showing tools and my work area
Let’s review 2016.
Some statistics. As I write this article my blog has exceeded 17,000 views, 33% of which are from United States, 17% are from Canada and the remainder are from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries, even 5 visitors from Cuba (and I thought they did not have access to the internet). I receive between 40-50 comments per month on average. The top 5 articles this year were:
Mauthe Mantel Clock
Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
Sessions Westminster A Mantel Clock
Forestville Mantel Clock
U.M. Muller Box Clock
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back.
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. My visitors view an average of 1.8 articles per visit and I have 50-60 views on a typical day. I am now receiving as many views per month as I did in the first 8 months of the blog. My goal is to to provide enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return. I post 8 articles a month, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest usually with some historical horological context.
Servicing an American clock, removing the time mainspring
Bushing a movement using a centering tool
I have welcomed all comments and inquiries. I have received a number of fascinating comments from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, information about the history of their clock and suggestions for improving my workflow. I answer all questions to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional though my general knowledge of clock collecting and repair is growing exponentially. I have also received comments from those who more knowledgeable than I am and I welcome their expertise and perspective. I especially welcome the wisdom and insights from popular commenters such as JC and Catalin at Blog Timbrofil.
Regulator weights
If you are a regular reader you will continue to see a number of what I hope are interesting clock articles in the months to come
Now it is time to look to 2017. My intent is to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as continuing to profile my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also intend to explore special areas of interest particularly my growing fascination with lantern clocks and crystal regulators. If you are a regular reader you will continue to see a number of what I hope are interesting clock articles in the months to come.
Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note.
Sadly the number of antique shops in Nova Scotia is dwindling. We were antiquing in the city of Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) this past spring and one of the store owners remarked that there used to be dozens of antique shops in the city, now only a few remain. There are still a few antique shops left in the rural areas and one of our favorites is located in Great Village, Nova Scotia. We decided on a little drive to Great village on a sunny fall Sunday. We were not disappointed in the variety of clocks we discovered. Although I saw all the following clocks during our day of antiquing I bought only one, the Kern “diamond face” 400 day clock (see photo below).
Window display
Unknown French clock
I want to give readers a sense of what is out there if you are collector like myself or you are new to collecting. Now is an excellent time to buy. There are certainly deals to be found and plenty of clocks in the shops. My personal experience is that the antique stores are great places to buy clocks but it can be bit of a gamble. For example, the Kern 400 day clock was advertised for a very fair price complete with glass dome. I asked the store owner if they knew anything about clocks and they said “no, nothing at all”. Sometimes that is a very good answer! The tag on the clock said “as is”. The owner evidently thought the pendulum balls were seized. Prior to the purchase I discovered, that they were, in fact, in their locked position. I got the clock home, unlocked it, gave a little push and it has been running for the past week.
Stamps for sale
You can get a “steal” of a deal, a clunker or something in between in an antique shop. In this same shop two years ago I bought an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon wall clock for under $200. The case is in excellent shape as is the dial but the movement, though barely running, required servicing. Even though I had to put a little more money into the clock I still consider it a great deal!
Having some knowledge of clock models, styles and types in particular is an advantage. Or, perhaps you might have a good sense that what you are looking at is a good deal. In the case of the Kern 400 day clock I inspected it beforehand and found that it was not only complete but in excellent condition. The $58 Garrard time and strike (photo below) might be a good deal but if it is missing the pendulum you are going to have to search long and hard for a replacement or buy one which adds to the cost. You might ask yourself, what else is missing and how much more money would I have to put into it? The Garrard was missing the front glass and I could not figure out how it was attached so I passed on it. Those are some of the factors to consider when you see something at an attractive price.
A doomed Ogee
In the case of the carriage clock (first photo) the seller wants $120 but the day I was there they were offering a 20% discount which works out to $96. There is a jewelers inscription on the front which says Ryrie Bros. Toronto. Ryrie Bros was a jeweler in Toronto and was incorporated in 1905 with James Ryrie as president and W.M. Birks as vice president. In 1924 the firm changed it’s name to Ryrie Birks and finally in 1933 became Birks. As any Canadian knows Birks (Maison Birk) is one of the premier jewelers in this country. One could comfortably date this clock at between 1905 and 1924. Although the tag says that it is French it is likely American. It might be desirable however there are two bothersome issues that I could see right away with this carriage clock. One, the left side beveled glass panel has a chip in the lower back corner and two, there are noticeable hairline cracks in the upper two corners of the face. The tag said it was in working order. $96 may not be a bad price when you consider that comparable clocks fetch upwards of $130 or more + shipping on Ebay. If it is still there before Christmas I might take a second look.
Unknown “marble” desk clock
This unknown “marble” desk clock was very interesting and quite heavy. It had an alarm clock style movement with a key wind and an adjustment for the time, and what appears to be brass bird (duck?) on it’s right side.
Kern diamond face 400 day clock
As I mentioned I bought this Kern 400 day “diamond face” clock. It is in excellent condition; unlocked the pendulum, oiled the movement, gave it a gentle push of the pendulum and now running very well.
Could be Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia
In decent shape, 1873 it said on the label, but the seller wanted too much, $450 if I recall. The seller claims it is running, according the tag. Is it a Sessions, Ingraham, Ansonia or …..?
Sessions shelf clock in oak case
This clock looked to be in decent shape, the strike side appeared to be working properly. The case is oak but when I picked it up to examine it more closely, the construction, fit and finish had a cheap feel. There was a card inside describing a servicing performed in 1994. $68 – a little high, I thought but there may not be a lot wrong with it.
I like this clock but know very little about crystal regulators. What I do know is that most American companies made them, from simple brass and glass cases to elaborate cases with cast and gilt ornaments. Equivalent French examples seem to be more valuable than American ones. They can be highly expensive. Generally, the more elaborate the case, the more expensive the clock, even though the simple cases could easily be considered more tasteful. I remember seeing a very ornate one on Antique Roadshow which was valued at $8000. Condition is very important with these clocks, including the condition of the beveled glass, dials, and original finish (generally gilt) on the case ornaments. Is the pendulum supposed to be filled with anything? Mercury? These cylinders looked empty. The seller claims the clock is running and wants $365. A fair price? I don’t know. It needs a thorough cleaning though.
Garrard mantel clock
This English Garrard clock had a well constructed case and appeared to have a well-made, robust movement but was missing its front glass. I have been to this particular shop several times and nobody seems to be interested in the clock though the price has not changed.
Seth Thomas made by Talley Industries
I noticed a Seth Thomas mantel clock in a dark corner. This particular example is one that I would not recommend to anyone unless you are a fan of Talley Industries. It is a Seth Thomas Westminster chime mantel clock made by Talley Industries, Peterborough, Ontario in the early seventies with what appears to be an imported West German Hermle movement. This clock was cheaply constructed (corners were chipped), likely has the dreaded plated pivot problem and has absolutely no collector value. Those in the clock collecting world familiar with Seth Thomas know that it was a reputable clock maker for many years and produced many fine clocks but the Talley Industries era must have been a very dark period for the company!
A unique clock design
I hope this blog article gives the reader some ideas when it comes to antique shop clock shopping. It certainly pays to do your research. Although I love browsing the shops I do not limit my shopping to them. I acquire many of my clocks from a variety of sources including Ebay, Kijiji, and word of mouth but I like browsing through antique shops because there are always other interesting items that catch the eye.
I had a discussion with David, a horologist acquaintance who is currently working on my 138 year old Ingraham Huron mantel clock (pictured above) about clock repairs in days gone by. He said he had happened to have a conversation a few days ago with an 82 year friend who had been in the clock repair business most of his life who said that times were very different in the “olden days”.
Imagine a Canadian home in the 1920s or the 1930s. In those days a clock was like a refrigerator or a washing machine; it was an appliance. The clock was generally inexpensive and purchased for one reason, to tell the time. Quite often it was the only timekeeping device in the home for common folk. Despite the fact that they were relatively poor timekeepers, people in those days did not demand accuracy in a clock, not like today. If it was correct within a minute or two a week that was just fine. Not only was the clock cheap, it was sturdy, functional and withstood a certain amount of abuse. My Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, for instance, sold for $5 when it was new in 1912. Five dollars was a lot of money when the average person such as a a railway employee might have made $662 a year or about $12.75 per week, but the home had to have a clock.
This Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock sold for $5 in 1912
There was always someone in the community that tinkered with clocks and for very little money, or a trade for services, the “appliance” was repaired and promptly returned to it’s owner. The tinkerer was usually someone who fixed things in their spare time rather than fix clocks as a profession. In larger urban centres clock repair persons (trained horologists) set up professional shops but in rural Nova Scotia those services were expensive and few and far between.
When the day came and the clock stopped running, it had to be fixed, and quickly. Often the request was, “just make it work”. The repair did not have to be pretty so long as the clock functioned and the cost of the repair was reasonable. Specialized clock tools were expensive and difficult to acquire so the tinkerer relied on tools they had lying around in the garage or the basement; a hammer, a pair of pliers, a punch, a file, a screwdriver and so on. The self-trained tinkerer did the best he could to make his neighbours’ clocks run often using questionable methods. Since brass bushings were not available the tinkerer would use a punch to close a pivot hole. In the 1940s when the soldering gun was commercially available and inexpensive, it too was added to the toolkit and often a piece of brass was soldered (or riveted) to the plate to accommodate a new pivot hole. They might also soak the movement in a bucket of gasoline overnight and then oil it with something like 3-in-1 oil. Sometimes this would be enough to clean out the gunk and allow the clock to run again, the costumer would be happy because their clock came back working and the tinkerer would charge very little for their “services”. The clock was not worth a great deal and the customer would not have had the money to pay a professional anyway. Common short-term solutions such as these often led to more frequent repairs and eventually replacement of the clock.
In the 1930s the synchronous electric clock began to replace the mechanical clock. Yet, homeowners in the rural areas who had no electricity hung on to them and kept them running, but eventually the electric clock gradually replaced the mechanical clock. Although, many of those old clocks were trashed, sent to the garage, the basement, or the attic, some were passed down to family members and are cherished keepsakes to this day. Not long after, the tinkerers in many communities began to disappear.
Today we covet our prized antique and vintage clocks that adorn our homes. When they are ticking away we marvel at the inventors and innovators of the past and when we want that certain clock, cost is no object. To repair them we employ all manner of modern technology; bushing machines, broaches, special files, clamps, spring winders and lathes to ensure that the “job is done right”, the clocks end up lasting years and are “better than ever”. But it was not always like that.
We look down upon those tinkerers of the past and the repairs they made without really understanding what it was like during those times. “What butcher worked on this?” I hear some people saying. Well, I have said it myself, but after talking to David I now have a better understanding of the clock tinkerers of past and the important work they did for their communities.
My next project is this vintage Ingersoll-Waterbury time and strike mantel clock. Ingersoll-Waterbury clocks were sold in Canada and had Canadian made cases using American made Waterbury movements. G.R. L’Esperance of Montreal were the sole distributors of Ingersoll-Waterbury clocks in Canada.
Waterbury has a long history going back to 1857. Like many American clock companies the Waterbury clock company had its boom periods (late 1800s) and its low period (1930s). In 1942 a Norwegian company ended up buying the Ingersoll-Waterbury Company. They built a brand new factory in the nearby town of Middlebury, CT. and in 1944 the company name was changed to United States Time Corporation; this clock was made prior to that year.
What makes this clock interesting is that it actually has a steel frame with a brass electro-plating. The plating was evidently used to stave off rust. It is very likely that this clock was made at some point through the war years (1941-44) when brass was in high demand hence the use of steel for the plates. To accommodate the pivots, brass bushings which were pressed into the steel pivot holes at the factory. My only other experience with steel plates is my Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock which has nickle-plated steel plates. The Maple Leaf by Arthur Pequegnat is shown in this next photo.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock with nickle-plated movement
Waterbury back plate
As you can see the movement is quite dirty and will require a thorough cleaning which can only be accomplished by a complete dis-assembly. Once disassembled comes the inspection and servicing.
Centre canon repair
Punch mark adjacent to bushing
Reverse side of punched bushing showing oil cup
This clock has never been bushed. The punch marks found adjacent to three of the bushings were likely factory made to set the bushings in place. There is one tooth repair (fourth photo) on the centre canon gear which appears to be the only evidence of work performed on this clock after it left the factory and the only indication that this clock was ever serviced.
The case is in very good condition requiring only a cleaning and polishing. I may touch up the clock hands with a little white paint.
I have determined that only 5 bushings need to be “replaced”, so time to get started. I will report on my progress with this clock in an upcoming article.
In this fourth and final entry of the series I will discuss bushing work, re-assembly and finally, testing and mounting the movement back into it’s case. Part I of this series can be found here, Part II here and Part III here,
Once the pivots are inspected, cleaned and polished it is now time to install any bushings required as result of careful inspection.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
I acquired a Bergeon Bushing Machine in the spring of this year (2016). As I mentioned in Part III, some may prefer to bush by hand which I think is commendable but I have decided to go the bushing machine route. In the last few months I have been using and learning its many tools. It comes with a set of chucks and reamers some of which (right side rear) are a bit of a mystery to me. I cannot see using any of the large reamers any time soon though I assume that if I am working on tall-case clocks which have larger movements they would come in handy.
Chucks and reamers
First is selecting the correct bushing using a micrometer to measure the diameter of the pivot. Then, I select the proper bushing from my Bergeon assortment kit.
Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter on the escape wheel
The bushing I have selected for the escape wheel pivot (measured at 1.46 mm) has a depth of 2 mm, an outside diameter of 3.5 mm and a pivot hole of 1.5 mm. In the next photo I am positioning it on top of the 3.47 mm. hole that I have just just “drilled” using one of the reamers. The outside diameter of the bushing is slightly larger allowing for a tight friction fit.
Positioning the bushing on the Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bushing installed
Once I have selected the correct bushing I test it on the pivot for fit and then I position it over the pivot hole and use a small hammer with it’s nylon end to tap the top of the bushing machine centre shaft lightly until the bushing is properly seated and level with the plate ensuring that the oil sink faces the outside of the plate.
New bushing installed with oil sink on the outside of the plate
To check proper fitment of the motion works bushings/pivots, I assemble all the wheels on that side (both plates), check for a smooth action and determine if any additional reaming/smoothing is required. I do the same for the strike side.
Once all the bushing work is completed and I am satisfied that each bushing fits correctly and operates smoothly, I re-assemble the mainsprings, wheels and levers and then re-attach the back plate using the five plate screws. We each have our own method of re-attaching the back plate but I work from the bottom up, that is, from the mainsprings. Once I have the mainsprings in place I immediately install the bottom 2 plate screws (loosely) and then work from the motion works side to the strike side using a pivot locator tool, if necessary, to coax the pivots into their respective holes.
Trains and levers ready for the front plate
Positioning the various levers can be a bit frustrating because those that have helper springs seem to slip out of their pivot holes easily as you are putting the plates together. Perseverance is certainly the key.
The one difficulty I had was adjusting the synchronization of the count and drop levers, that is, getting the drop lever to sit in the cam while I adjusted the locking lever position. The clock must be completely assembled at this point and once together loosen or take off the nearest pillar nut and pry the plates apart to take out both the flywheel and the locking wheel. Once out, the locking wheel can be re-positioned by moving the pin on the wheel so it rests on the locking lever. Once this is completed, re-install the flywheel. This is basically a trial and error process and I never seem to get it right the first time.
My only error in the first go-around was not restraining the strike mainspring during this procedure. While spinning wildly the strike mainspring flattened the protrusions off the cam that allows the hammer strike. Momentary panic! Once bent back into shape everything was fine. Naturally, I secured the mainspring for my second successful attempt.
Once the parts are re-assembled it is on to the final testing phase which takes days (and weeks, perhaps) as the clock is being carefully regulated. The following video shows the movement on a test stand (in this case, Gene’s Test Movement Stand). The sound of the pallet on the escape wheel is very quiet; you are hearing other clocks in this room. The clock is in beat and in the video you can see the movement of the escape wheel from various perspectives.
The movement is returned to it’s case
Once testing and regulating is completed and I am satisfied the clock will run reliably for 8 days I return it to it’s case. There are only 4 mounting screws. You may have to re-position the coil gong by loosening the adjustment nut on bottom of case to get that satisfying strike sound.
This attractive little Sessions American No. 2 time and strike mantel clock has now been serviced. It required 5 bushings and should run reliably for the next 3-5 years.
I put a quick article together on my newly acquired modern Art Deco brass Kienzle World desk clock in August and with only one photo in my post I really did not do this fine looking timepiece any justice. I hope the following photos will show that this clock really impresses. As I mentioned in my last post regarding this clock, this is one of many clocks conceived by renounced German designer Heinrich Moeller. Moeller, who was trained as a cabinet maker, began working with Kienzle as chief designer in 1931 and through to about 1970.
On display with Ingraham Huron
This vintage clock is from the period 1950 to 1960 judging from the many offerings on EBay. I noticed that this style is occasionally advertised as a 1960s clock but judging from others I have seen I am fairly confident that this is from 1950 give or take a year. This style seems to be the most desirable of the series. Later ones had quartz movements and were in less demand, judging from the lower prices. The weight is very substantial and it measures 13 and 3/4″H X 10″W X, 2 and 1/2″D.
Back showing winding key, speed adjustment access port and time adjustment knobBrass bezel
This clock is in excellent condition with minimal wear and tarnish. In fact, observe the front and side views for an appreciation of the pristine condition of this clock. The case was grimy as one might expect and a little polish brought up the finish very nicely.
Quite often small parts are missing in clocks such as this, for example, the time adjustment knob or the cover for the speed control needle. In this case everything is completely intact. It is in very good working order and will run for a full 8 days.
Decorative brass base
Will I service it? I am not sure. According to comments on the NAWCC message board some members have not had much luck working with this clock. Given that it seems to have had minimal wear and tear it may not have had a lot of use over the years so it might be wise to leave well enough alone, for now. I would like to oil it, however!
Winding crankAperture for the 24-hour day and night indication
I am very pleased with this acquisition. The clock is certainly a singular work of elegance, magnificence, style and a stand-out in any room.
This is Part II of the Sessions American No. 2 servicing. As I mentioned in my last blog entry (Part I) this clock was running but is in need of a little attention. This is a fairly simple clock to work on for an American time and strike movement. I cannot stress enough that photos are so important when working on clocks! They are a valuable reference which take a lot of the guessing out of re-assembly.
The clock is now ready for the parts to be taken off, organized in a parts container, inspected, cleaned and serviced.
Motion works mainspring is removed
X marks pivot holes that need to be bushed
This the back plate. No bushings have been installed but following my inspection a number of bushings are required, three in this particular corner. The topmost “X” is the location of the escape wheel. I always mark the suspect pivot holes with a marker so that I know what work needs to be performed on those specific pivot holes.
Dis-assembly is rarely an issue when working on these clocks. However, the helper springs (see arrow below) can be damaged and although they look like they might have been added by later clock repair they are indeed part of the original design and assembly of the movement and perform a vital function. Be very careful with them though if broken they can be replaced. The helper springs and levers can be frustrating to work with particularly when lining up the levers correctly and re-positioning the helper springs upon re-assembly.
Removing count wheel lever/helper spring
Removing the count wheel
The count wheel is secured by this washer. make sure it goes back in the same way it came out.
Marking the count wheel
Putting the count wheel in backwards will not stop the clock but it will count down the hours, not good! Not making the same mistake again I mark the count wheel so that I know that it goes in right the first time.
Motion works and strike parts separated
We each have our own way of doing things but I find it very helpful to separate the time and strike sides prior to re-assembly. It avoids confusion and makes for a more simplified process when working on your clock.
Now that the clock is disassembled it now time for further inspection, cleaning, installing bushings, and polishing the pivots which you will find in Part III.
I acquired this mechanical Kienzle World Time clock recently from an antique shop in Quebec.
No matter where you are in the world this clock will tell you the local time. Quite ingenious! This is accomplished through a rotating hour indicator in the lower half of the clock. As the time advances the indicator moves along with it thus enabling the user to line up the distant hour according to where you are in the world. This is one of many clocks conceived by renounced German designer Heinrich Moeller. Moeller, who was trained as a cabinet maker, began working with Kienzle in 1931 and presumably through to the mid century. This vintage clock probably originates from the early 1950s.
This clock is in excellent condition as the brass seems well preserved. I would imagine it as a stunning clock in any environment. I would assume that it might have been sold as a promotional item or could have found it way into many executive office milieus. One can just imagine an import/export dealer 60 years ago who would need to know the time in many parts of the world.
I found an excellent description from this site. The clock is described as “circular, brushed brass, moulded and rectangular base, convex glass. Brushed silvered with applied gilt brass radial Roman numerals, outer minute track, the center with world planisphere and the names of 42 world cities and countries, aperture for the 24-hour day and night indication, scale above to calculate the world time. Gilt brass tapered baton hands. Lever escapement, three-arm balance, index regulator. Diam. 26 cm.” Curiously, the number 4 is expressed as IV rather than IIII found typically on Roman Numeral clocks.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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