I often get letters from my readers that begin with something like, “I picked this up in a thrift store” and marvel at what they find for next to nothing. Quite often the item they snagged at an unbelievable price needs a little love but that is to be expected.
Sessions wall clock
While on our summer jaunts my wife occasionally drags me into the odd thrift store because as she says, you’ll never know what we’ll find” and quite often she’s right. Over the past two or three years, we have bought a few jazz and classical CDs for next to nothing (yes, CDs are back).
Recently we stopped in a small town in an adjacent province to look around. We found a couple of classical CDs and were content to leave when my wife pointed out a mission-style clock hanging behind the cash.
“What’s the price on that? “, I asked. “I don’t know, the boss is in the back” I found him throwing items into a dumpster, obviously things that could not even be given away. “I’m interested in a clock”. “Show me”, he said. We both walked to the front of the store, he looked up at the clock, rubbed his chin, and said, “how about 10 bucks”. I mean, why dicker!
I don’t have a Mission-style clock in my collection and hoped that it was a Canadian-made Arthur Pequegnat, but I knew the hands were not the type used on Pequegnat clocks. Upon first inspection, the only things missing are the winding key and a label which is normally affixed to the backboard.
Sessions time and strike movement
I thought perhaps it was an Ingraham or Sessions. Once back at home I unscrewed the back panel and identified it immediately as a Sessions movement. Still a good deal. It also tells me that it was made after 1903 the year the sessions Clock Company was formed after a group of investors bought out the assets of the EN Welch Clock Co.
The mainsprings were wound tight. Rather than let the springs down I ran the clock. The time side was fine, a small matter of putting it in beat but the strike side needs a little work. There is nothing wrong with the passing strike on the half-hour but complete silence on the hour. Something is amiss on the strike side. I‘ll give it a nudge and see what happens.
It is a $10 cottage clock my sister picked up in a yard sale several years ago and gave to me after I serviced one of her ogee clocks. There is a label on the inside that says it is made by Ansonia Brass Co. and I would date it to around the early 1880s.
It likely cost no more than 50 cents in its day, the most inexpensive of mechanical clocks but enough to provide for a family of modest needs.
Ansonia cottage clock
Not many survive to this day as they were tossed out when they stopped working. When they do survive they are often in poor condition such as this one. So, it is not surprising that time-only cottage clocks, in very good condition, are sometimes worth more and have greater collector value than larger American time and strike parlour or kitchen clocks.
A very simple time-only movement
So, why is this clock not worth much more than my sister paid for it? It’s had a hard life and has likely been altered in several ways. Original movement? It’s hard to say as there are no markings on it. Well worn? Yes! Pendulum, crutch, the mainspring, pallets; probably replacements. And why the notches on the rear of the access door?
Notches on either side of door
My wife and I love the sound of a ticking clock when we sleep at night. We both find it very soothing. And this one ticks just loud enough to be heard over our window air conditioner.
Unfortunately, the movement cannot quite run its intended 30 hours, and either the mainspring is too weak, or it needs a good cleaning. It is certainly not worth replacing a mainspring that would exceed the value of the clock so, a good cleaning is what it will get.
Time-only movements are the simplest to work on. There is only one train with three wheels plus the escape wheel. It is a matter of letting down the mainspring (a clamp is not necessary) releasing the 4 pins that hold the plates together which exposes the wheels and then taking the parts out.
Bent and worn main wheel teeth
Two issues immediately tell me that this movement does not have a lot of time left. The main wheel and the centre cannon teeth are slightly bent and it is only a matter of time when one or more break. There is not a lot of stress produced by the mainspring on the wheels of a 30-hour clock so it could take years, or perhaps even tomorrow. In any event, a repair of the wheel teeth is just not worth it.
The movement is not especially dirty but there is blackened oil in some of the pivot holes necessitating remediation. A clean in the ultrasonic followed by rinsing the parts, drying them, and then reassembly, oiling, and testing. That is it.
It is clean and I hope it will run 30 hours after the cleaning. Will it last? Well, for as long as the wheel teeth hold out. Let’s hope they do!
This wall clock was gifted to me in the spring of 2022. I have no idea who made the clock, there are no markings on the case or the movement. It was likely sold by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto in the 1960s and my guess, a Hermle movement. I could find nothing else about it online. I wrote an article in August with first impressions.
Wag on a wall time and strike clock
The style of the clock is a “wag on the wall”. It is a strange name but basically describes what it looks like it is doing, wagging its tail. A Wag on a wall clock is a clock with the movement enclosed in a small case with a pendulum and weights exposed.
From 1660 to about 1870, the wag-on-the-wall was a very common clock style. It is so named because the pendulum appears to wag on the wall like a dog’s tail. It is also a derivative of the English lantern clock (more closely to a converted one with a pendulum). It was eventually deemed not attractive enough to hang on the wall in many upscale homes, so wooden or glass and wooden cases were added. The long-case or grandfather clock evolved from this early wags-on-the-wall. Wooden cases were used to hide the unsightly weights and cast-iron pendulum.
The style did not disappear as many manufacturers continued making the wag-on-a-wall style clock to this day.
There were several clock assemblers operating in Canada up to the mid-1970s, and it was likely imported and assembled by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto.
It is a rack and snail movement possibly made by Hermle. The second wheel teeth are larger than one would expect so, a lot of thought went into the design of this movement. I have worked on similar movements in the past though this one is a bit different, specifically the arrangement of the hammer assembly, one main wheel is the reverse of the other, and of course, it is a weight-driven time and strike clock.
Hammer assemblyReverse chain wheels
Based on my initial observations the movement looks fairly clean despite the tarnished brass but I am expecting minor wear issues commensurate with a 60-year-old mechanical clock.
Disassembly
I took a number of photos prior to disassembly. This is my regular practice and although I have worked on many similar movements though there are always minor intricacies that differ from manufacturer to manufacturer.
To remove the movement from its case, two slotted screws holding the movement to the seat board are released plus, the weight chains must be pulled out. To release the chains the weight hooks must be removed.
The rack and snail assembly, minute wheel, hammer assembly, escapement, and pendulum leader were removed initially and placed in a collection tray. What remained were the wheels and the lifting lever between the plates secured by four pillar nuts.
The gathering pallet arbour and the main arbour are pressure fit. So, when I separated the plates most of the wheels fell out, of course. It can be a challenge for first-time clock repairers but when one works on a few there is a certain logic to the placement and orientation of the wheels.
Assessment of the movement
Because there was generally little wear, I made three decisions. I elected not to separate the central arbour and did not pull the gathering pallet from its arbour. As a result, the plate with two arbours attached was placed in the ultrasonic. I did not disassemble the main wheels which were held together with pressure washers. The main wheel ratchets and chain teeth are in very good condition and the ratchet assembly worked as it should and there was no need to take them apart.
I cleaned up residual oil and dirt around the pivot holes, removed excess oil from the pates, inspected the pivots for wear, and placed all parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. Since I was using a smaller machine than my regular US cleaner, the parts were cleaned in three batches which took a little longer.
Older, less efficient ultrasonic cleaner
I took special care drying the main wheels assemblies and ensured they were operating correctly after they were completely free of any moisture
My wife’s hair dryer came in handy but after cleaning and drying all the parts it fell off the table and broke. Sigh!
The pivots, which are in very good condition, are polished, the pivot holes pegged out and the next step is bushing work. Two bushings are required, the second wheel front plate and the centre wheel, back plate. There is minor wear on those two holes but why not address them while the movement is apart.
Reassembly
As with many rack and snail movements, most adjustments are made after the wheels are installed within the plates but three minor adjustments make the job easier and that is ensuring the gathering pallet is free of the rack, the stop wheel is in the 12 o’clock position and the hammer actuators are free of the star wheel. They must be between the star tips, if not, one of the hammers will catch on a star tip and stall the strike.
Time and strike movement
Testing
Once fully assembled the next step is installing the chains, weights, pendulum, and testing/adjustment. A small adjustment to the height of the pallets was made after which the clock ran well and continued to run well after 5 days. It is keeping very good time, as expected of a weight-driven movement as any clock that is powered by weights releases its power uniformly through its rated cycle.
Yes, it is a very plain-looking clock that reflects the style of the time (the 1960s) but it might grow on me.
There was a time in the 1970s and 1980s when every family of sufficient means had a grandfather clock in their home. It was a symbol of success but today, nobody wants them.
clock face
Two years ago my daughter bought a new home in a large western Canadian city. There were a couple of pieces of furniture in the house during the process of the sale.
Craftline grandfather clock
One item, a grandfather clock was offered for sale, my daughter consulted me and I advised her to lowball the offer. So, she bought it far below the asking price. It was clear the seller had no interest in taking it with them and they quickly agreed to the lower price.
Weights and pendulum
It is a Craftline grandfather (or tall-case) clock from about the mid-1980s. I have seen a few modern grandfather clocks and to me, this was a top-of-the-line model with selectable chimes, seconds bit, beveled glass lower access door, 12-inch pendulum bob, moon phase, crank weights, beautiful solid wood (Cherry?) case with selected veneers.
Craftline clock
The trouble is that I cannot find one darn thing about the company during an online search.
I do know that Craftline was a Canadian company that made clock cases and sourced Hermle and possibly Urgos movements, plus faces, pendulums, and weights from Germany. When they ceased production (presumably in the early 1990s) and how long the company was in business is a mystery. However, judging from the quality of this clock, they were able to compete successfully with Howard Miller, Ridgeway, and others.
However, it is a fine-looking clock that represents a time when every home had to have one.
June 2025 update: The definitive source on Craftline Industries is an article I authored earlier this year.
How do I know if my antique mechanical clock is keeping good time? While it may be important today, years ago people had a different concept of time. Back in the 18th and 19th centuries common folk had little need to know the time of day precisely. There were no cars, TVs, or the Internet. There was little demand for careful timekeeping and clocks, whether they be spring driven or weight-driven, that were accurate to within a few minutes a week were considered excellent timekeepers. Astronomical clocks were certainly available to scientists and better regulators were made for commercial purposes (the railroads for example) but for the common man, the emphasis was on cost rather than absolute accuracy, and to-the-second time was neither sought nor desired.
The weight-driven ogee was a very popular clock for the home
The common mechanical clock for the home was a wonderful invention and by the mid-1800s, with a clock in every home people could regulate their lives whether it be sending the children off to school, attending church, or working in the fields.
In those days if the family clock stopped and usually there was only one in the home, the priority was to have it serviced often by backyard tinkerers. For those who could afford it, reputable repairpersons were available and professional repairs were provided.
Clock-maker’s shop from about 1900
Today professional repair shops are disappearing at an alarming rate and with it, knowledge is lost forever. There is no going back. Mechanical clocks are still with us and require periodic maintenance, after all, they are machines, and machines are not meant to last forever though they can last an incredibly long time if cared for properly.
That a mechanical clock can last a long time is partly because of clever engineering, robust construction, and periodic maintenance. Indeed, I have clocks in my collection that are over 150 years old that still work daily and not because of sheer luck. They are properly maintained.
180-year-old weight-driven banjo clock from Boston
Any clock repairperson will tell you that friction is a clock’s worst enemy. Worn clock parts that lack oil or dried up and dirty oil cause friction that can interfere with the running of a clock. Mitigating friction is the key a clock’s long life.
Trundle wear on a lantern pinion
Several things happen to clocks as they run year after year. Oil contaminated with dirt and dust build-up, the oil turns black and parts moving with one another generate wear, gradually at first and accelerates as grime builds. In time wheels that are unable to properly mesh with one another cause a clock to stop. In some cases, weakened or tried mainsprings become set, lose their ability to completely unwind, cannot maintain their rated cycle (One-day, 8 days), and must be replaced. Wear is reversible in most cases but occasionally replacement parts are the only option.
When to oil and when to service
There is no absolute timetable with respect to periodic maintenance and servicing. there are many opinions among clock repairers but a cycle of between one to five years is considered reasonable. If a periodic inspection reveals that the clock is clean and the pivots well-oiled the period between servicing can be extended, assuming that the clock is running well, to begin with.
Clock pivot oil
Routine maintenance should always include careful inspection and if necessary, disassembly of the movement, cleaning, addressing wear issues, reassembly, oiling, and testing. Even the simple task of reoiling a clock movement involves taking it out of its case in order to access all the oiling points.
When a clock stops
When a clock acts up it is sending out a clear message. When a clock is acting up one might be tempted to add more oil or spray the movement with either a lubricating oil or WD-40 (which is actually a water dispersant rather than oil). Doing so will actually turn the clock into a dust magnet and the combination will turn the oil or other questionable lubricant into a grinding paste around the pivots and exacerbate wear.
Those new to antique clocks will go to great lengths to avoid taking a clock movement apart but experienced clock repairers know that proper cleaning can only be done when a movement is taken completely apart. There are no shortcuts. Dunking a movement into a solution, drying it, and calling it clean is no substitute for complete disassembly. Dipping a movement into an ultrasonic cleaner also does not equate to a clean movement. Other than sending the clock to a shop which entails a fee for servicing one should either learn this task or establish a relationship with someone who knows how.
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
If one is mechanically inclined and comfortable working with small parts, learning to repair clocks can be a joyful and rewarding experience. Simple tools can be easily acquired and once the basics are mastered specialized tools can assist with more complex repairs.
Needless to say, one does not become an expert overnight.
My wife’s uncle was an internist (internal medicine specialist) in Newfoundland and practiced for many years but dementia and its attendant complications finally got the best of him. He spent the last 5 or so years in a locked ward of a residential facility for the elderly.
As part of his practice, he set up a home office where he would receive patients and consult with colleagues. In his office was a wall clock given to him by a former patient.
When he passed away his possessions were distributed among his family members with the clock going to his brother who, himself passed away this past year. Unfortunately, there was not much interest in the clock and it spent 15+ years in a Rubbermaid container in the basement of his brother’s home.
His wife is currently in the process of moving to a smaller home, giving away what she could and since I have a keen interest in antique and vintage clocks she determined that the best place for the clock was in the hands of someone who could have it working once again. I did not have a clear idea of what she was giving me though I knew that it was a mechanical wall clock.
Quickly mounted on the wall to check things out
The style of the clock is a “wag on the wall”. It is a strange name but basically, it is a clock with the movement enclosed in a small case and with a pendulum and weights exposed.
In the years between 1660 and 1870, the wag-on-the-wall was a very common clock. It is so named because the pendulum appears to wag on the wall like a dog’s tail. It was eventually deemed not attractive enough to hang on the wall in many upscale homes, so wooden or glass and wooden cases were added. The long-case or grandfather clock actually evolved from early wags-on-the-wall clocks. Wooden cases were used to hide the unsightly weights and cast-iron pendulum.
The style did not totally disappear as many manufacturers continued making the wag-on-a-wall style clock to this day.
There are no maker’s marks on the dial or the movement but it appears to have a Canadian connection. There were several clock assemblers operating in Canada up to the mid-1970s, and it was likely assembled by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto from parts sourced from West Germany but I will learn more as I continue my research.
The only markings on the movement are a serial or production number ending with 65 behind the pendulum leader and UW 7/29 (a date or other measurement) just above the aforementioned number. The year 1965 seems about right judging from the two-tone case tinting popular in the 1960s, The clock case is not particularly attractive today but such was the style at the time. I don’t think it will ever be my favorite wall clock.
It is a weight-driven rack and snail time and strike movement possibly made by Hermle, Mauthe or Urgos. I have worked on similar movements in the past though this one is a bit different, specifically the arrangement of the hammer assembly and the main wheels are reversed from each other.
The weights and pendulum are polished
It is not apparent upon first inspection if the movement has ever been serviced. Rather than run the risk of further wear I plan to test it briefly before servicing the movement. The movement looks robust and well made but I am expecting minor wear issues commensurate with age when I open it up.
While it is largely intact the bottom middle finial is missing. Otherwise, the case is in very good condition for its age. I mounted it on the wall to check things out and yes, it does wag!
In an upcoming article, I will go over the steps in servicing this movement.
Like a car engine, oil is the lifeblood of a clock. A correctly oiled clock will ensure a long life. Oil is the “lifeblood” of the car engine; the same applies to a clock. Just as a car engine relies on quality oil to keep its moving parts running smoothly and efficiently, a clock depends on oil to reduce friction and wear between its delicate components, such as gears, pivots, and arbors.
Lubrication is essential to the efficient running of any mechanical clock movement.
German time and strike clock movement
The primary purpose of lubrication is to reduce wear. Forming a protective film between moving parts enables them to glide smoothly against each other, thereby reducing resistance, improving efficiency, and minimizing energy loss.
Proper lubrication ensures smoother component operation, helping maintain accurate timekeeping by preventing irregular behaviour caused by increased friction. Additionally, it prolongs the lifespan of gears, pivots, and other moving parts by minimizing stress and wear.
A Quick Guide Including Some Dos and Don’ts
Avoid using spray lubricants like WD-40 on clocks, as they are unsuitable for precision mechanisms. WD-40 is a water displacement agent, not a true lubricant, and for that matter, spraying any kind of lubricant can harm the clock, especially since some parts, such as wheel teeth, pinions, and levers, must remain dry. Instead, use a specialized product like Keystone clock oil, specifically designed for clock mechanisms.
Keystone clock pivot oil
When applying oil, use a small amount—about the size of a pinhead—at each lubrication point. Tools such as a toothpick, small wire, needle dipper, or a clock oiler are ideal for precise application. Avoid over-oiling, as excess oil attracts dust, which can mix with the lubricant to form a paste that increases wear. Less is more, which means less of something—a smaller amount of it—can at times be better than a large amount of it.
clock oiler
Focus on oiling the following areas:
The pivots of all wheels and the anchor or lever arbor on both front and back plates. In clockmaking, a pivot is the slender, polished tip of a wheel or arbor (the shaft that supports and drives the wheel) that rotates within a hole or bearing in the clock’s plate. Pivots are critical components in the mechanism as they allow wheels and arbors to spin smoothly and with minimal friction.
The crutch loop where it contacts the pendulum rod. The crutch loop is a part of the clock’s crutch, a thin, typically metal component connected to the escapement mechanism. The crutch transfers the motion from the escapement to the pendulum, keeping it swinging back and forth.
The escapement pallets. The escapement regulates the release of energy from the clock’s power source (mainspring or weights) to drive the gear train and maintain the pendulum’s motion.
Escapement pallet
The clicks. The clicks are small, rotating components in a clock’s winding mechanism. They play a vital role in ensuring that the clock’s mainspring or weight-driven system remains securely wound and does not unwind uncontrollably.
Pulley axles on weight-driven clocks. In weight-driven clocks, the pulley axles are the central shafts around which the pulleys rotate. These pulleys are part of the weight system that powers the clock.
When to Oil
Oiling a movement without first disassembling and cleaning is not recommended unless, following a visual inspection, the mechanism is free of black oil and the pivot holes are simply dry. Otherwise, the addition of new lubricant to old will mix with the dirt and grime to form a grinding paste which acts as an abrasive, hastening pivot and pivot hole wear.
In short, if the pivots are dry and show no residue, a small amount of oil can be applied without the need for disassembly.
During servicing, ensure the mainsprings are oiled with specialized mainspring oil. Apply the oil by drizzling it along the sides of the coiled spring, allowing it to wick between the coils, and wipe away any excess.
When oiling, avoid dipping directly into the oil bottle; pour a small amount into an oil cup for easier application and to prevent contamination of the oil in the bottle.
Don’t leave the oil in a sunny window. UV rays will break down the oil and degrade its chemical structure over time. UV rays cause a process called photo-oxidation, where the oil reacts with light and oxygen. The degraded oil may become thicker, stickier, or form a residue, making it unsuitable for precise lubrication.
Cover the oil when not in use.
Routine Clock Inspection and Oiling
I inspect my clocks every 2-3 years if they run on a daily basis. If the movement is free of dust and the pivot holes are dry, I will apply fresh oil. If there is blackened oil around any pivot hole, it is time to disassemble the movement, clean it, and apply new oil once reassembled.
In the end, proper lubrication is less about how much oil you use and more about how—and when—you use it. A careful eye, a light touch, and the right product will do far more good than overzealous application. Clocks are remarkably durable when treated with respect, and with just a bit of routine attention, they will continue to keep reliable time for decades. As with most things in horology, patience and restraint are your best tools.
In our quest to have our antique mechanical clocks run accurately the immediate response is to regulate the clock, but have you thought about calibrating your mechanical clock? It is not as difficult as it sounds.
This is not the same as regulating your clock. A properly regulated Anerican-made spring-driven clock will show the correct time at the beginning of the week but will run fast through the week and may gain as much as 3 or 4 minutes mid-week and lose time at the end of the week.
Seth Thomas spring driven round top 8-day clock
Let’s use a spring-driven mantel clock with an 8-day cycle for our example.
Mainsprings release their peak power at the beginning of their cycle. As the mainspring winds down power is gradually released until the spring unwinds completely and the clock stops.
Gilbert spring driven wall clock
On some antique clocks, one might find “stop works” (otherwise called a Geneva stop) which is a clever star-shaped brass add-on to the main wheel that reduces the full release of power initially by flattening the mainspring’s power curve over its rated cycle (8-days) and thus maintain some level of accuracy through the week.
Geneva stops as indicated by the white arrows
But most clocks I have come across don’t have this ingenious device.
Weight-driven clocks are a different kettle of fish because the release of power is constant throughout the week. Once a weight-driven clock is regulated it should not require calibration.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator with weights
Calibration makes the assumption that your spring-driven clock will never accurately tell the time at any one given point in its cycle and essentially means setting your clock so that it loses no more than a couple of minutes at any given time through the week.
Sessions mainsprings, one for the time train and the other for the strike train
According to the Canadian Oxford dictionary to calibrate means “to correlate readings of an instrument with a standard”. If the standard is plus or minus two minutes per week, without the use of “stops” or other means to flatten the power curve, setting the clock two minutes slow at the beginning of the week will ensure that it is never off by more than a minute or two through the week.
According to noted horologist Robert H. Croswell, “If the clock is regulated such that it has a zero net gain or loss of time from the start to the end of the week, then take ½ the maximum fast error during the week and set the clock that many minutes “slow” when the clock is wound.” If the maximum is 6 minutes, then, half would be three minutes.
One could use a complex mathematical formula to determine the precise amount of time to set the clock at the beginning of the week but setting it two minutes slow for a clock that loses 4 minutes each week should suffice for most purposes.
Having trouble getting that newly acquired clock to run continually. It may be as simple as a clock that is out of beat.
Here is a quick guide for setting the beat on your mechanical clock.
30-hour parlour clock with a pendulum
This quick guide refers to a mechanical clock with a pendulum. 400-day clocks, clocks with a balance wheel or lever escapement require a specific procedure to set the beat.
This movement has a balance type escapement requiring a very different procedure to set the beat
A pendulum clock is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven…ticktock…ticktock…ticktock…or tick…tocktick…tocktick…
When a clock is out of beat, either it will not run at all, or it will run for a few minutes and stop.
There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first, and simplest, is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. Now it will run, but it will look funny while tilted. If it is a wall clock the tilt may not be as noticeable but a tilting mantel clock will always look a little strange.
The second way is to adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets and the pallets are the things that rock back and forth. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch.
If the crutch is a simple rod or wire, it is adjusted by bending it to one side or the other. If it attaches to the pallets with a friction joint, it is adjusted by holding the pallets still with one hand, and shifting (pushing) the crutch right or left on the friction joint.
Which way to tilt it? Rich Jones, a master clock repairer, has formulated a simple rule, known here as Arjay’s Maxim:
Sessions Drop Octagon with a pendulum
Tilt her till she ticks with pride Then adjust the crutch toward the high side
First, use the tilting procedure to make the beat even. Note which side is the high side. Now, straighten the clock so it’s vertical, and adjust the crutch toward the side that was the high side.
How much to adjust it? Trial and error. Adjust the crutch, then start the pendulum swinging and listen to see if it’s in beat. If it isn’t, repeat the procedure. If it goes out of beat the other way, you have adjusted it too much. Adjust it back a little. You should get it right in one or two tries.
Using toothpicks to set the beat on a 400 day clock
Now the beat is adjusted and the clock does not look strange.
A beat amplifier will amplify the beat
A clock that will not run because it is out of beat is one of the most frustrating experiences for a new clock owner. Why would your newly purchased antique mantel clock be out of beat? Because it was adjusted for the last surface it was on.
Inflation seems to be everywhere. The continuing decline in purchasing power is reflected in increased prices on almost everything.
The other day my wife and I bought a container of spray from a garden store. We thought the price was high at almost $25 but when we got to the cash, the clerk charged us $6 more. We showed her the sticker price and she said it was old stock and the computer had already adjusted the price for the new stock coming in. I understand supply chain issues and rising fuel costs but a 25% increase is a bit much. We argued and did not pay the extra $6. Needless to say we will not be buying that product again.
Everything seems to have risen in price as a result of inflation except perhaps antique and vintage clocks!
I don’t actively pursue high end clocks so, there could be movement price-wise for rare and highly collectible clocks but not for garden variety antique clocks. This completely anecdotal but I have been observing the clock market for some time and I do not see a lot of change in prices and if you are into buying and selling clocks this is not a great time to make a profit. Perhaps one day in the future but I believe that day is far off.
$12 cottage clock, unrestored
So, it has been a buyer’s market for the last number of years and it doesn’t look like things will change any time soon. There are many great bargains to be found everywhere and it doesn’t take much looking.
$40 Chauncey Jerome 30-hour ogee
Antique and vintage clocks have flooded the market in the past several years with prices tumbling even further downwards. The new generation of millennials have little interest in antiques and find it pointless to collect antique and vintage clocks. Their loss is our gain, meaning those of us who appreciate the finer things in life.
In addition, modern homes do not have the room for clocks as floor and wall space is limited. In an age when families are living in 800 square foot apartments space is at a premium though there is a hint that things could change as the migration from dense cities to smaller communities continues.
When space is at a premium grandfather clocks or any clock occupying floor or wall space are not items many would consider as necessary for the modern family home. Sentimental reasons aside, the cost of servicing far exceeds the value if the desire is to have a working clock.
$75 Junghans Crispi wall clock
Of course, I don’t have a crystal ball but judging from prices in the past few years I can comfortably predict that things will continue to be much the same this year and next. I do not expect a significant change in the months to come and that $20 bargain clock you discovered today at a flea market will not be worth much more next year.
It is a buyer’s market and there are some terrific bargains out there. Knowledge is power and no doubt there are some great clocks to be found but shop carefully and do your research.
The example is a Fleet time and strike mantel clock from the 1930s. Fleet Time Company of Montreal, a company that was operating four short years, sourced movements from Germany prior to the Second World War. It was a very common mantel clock sold through department stores across Canada.
I like the step side design and the general simplicity of the clock.
Fleet Time case, refinished
The case was in need of refreshing but the movement looked to be in reasonably good condition and required a good cleaning and I was expecting some wear.
The movement was completely serviced with several new bushings installed. The mainsprings were removed, cleaned, and returned to their barrels.
Fleet time movement
In this movement, the mainsprings can be removed without disassembling the movement, handy for such things as replacing a broken mainspring assuming, of course that nothing else has been damaged.
During the testing phase, the mainsprings were partially wound. The intent was to see if the clock would run well. Once satisfied that the movement was running as it should I returned it to its case.
I wound the strike side fully and then wound the time side. Just as I was feeling resistance, CLUNK, the arbour turned freely. If it was a broken click or broken mainspring, either one could easily be replaced.
It has nothing to do with the force of winding a movement. Having a mainspring go bad with winding force from a key is rare, in my view.
But mainspring barrel teeth do not simply fall off.
Fleet time barrel
At times it is a mainspring but sometimes something far worse occurs.
It is not uncommon to find secondary damage to the movement, secondary or collateral damage due to the extreme shock that broke or bent the teeth and teeth cannot be straightened.
The main problem area beyond the barrel itself will be the second wheel and possibly the third wheel arbors, leaf pinions and pivots and/or damaged or missing teeth on the second and third wheels and bent or broken pinions.
Fleet second wheel, a bent leaf cannot be unbent
Is it fixable? Yes, but weighed against the value of the clock, it is just not worth it. It is much more cost effective to harvest parts from another movement.
Given the right equipment, it can be repaired. Once repaired a mainspring must be sourced and although the barrels may be identical, the mainsprings will likely be different.
The solution is locate a donor movement. In the meantime the clock has been put aside.
An attractive gallery clock made by the Empire Clock Co. of England was bought at auction this past spring. It has a very conventional time-only movement and as with most time-only movements there are only a few wheels to worry about when servicing. The minute and hour wheel are outside the front plate.
Empire gallery clock
The movement is rather large for a time-only movement and is well built. It is attached to a heavy steel plate that is screwed onto the front of the movement. The whole assembly mounts just under the dial. It has a very German look to it, though it is definitely English-made.
To access the movement the dial must be removed which is a relatively simple process of removing the hands and three small screws.
Hour and minute wheel
Four slotted screws secure the movement to the steel plate.
Time-only movement made by Empire
An curious feature is a cylindrical pendulum with a large rotating adjustment screw on the bottom. The pendulum clips into a two piece caddy system for easy transport.
Conventional wheel arrangement
For a fairly modern (1920s) movement I was surprised to find taper pins used to secure the plates. The spring barrel is no larger than one would ordinarily find in the average time and strike clock made in England or Germany.
As the movement was drenched in oil all the parts had to be wiped down before going into the ultrasonic cleaner.
I did not expect the plates and wheels to brightly shine after the ultrasonic but all the parts cleaned nicely just the same. After polishing the pivots and pegging out the holes the movement was assembled and tested.
After working with a number of American movements in the past months the pivots on this movement are comparatively tiny. This is not a movement one muscles to put back together, the pivots must be carefully guided into their holes.
A couple of weeks back I featured this Welch marine style wall clock. A marine clock can also refer to a ships’ bell clock. Ship’s bell time originated in sailing ship days, when the crew of a vessel was divided into Port and Starboard Watches, each on duty four hours, then off four hours. One stroke of the ship’s bell indicates the first half hour of the watch. Then an additional bell is struck for each succeeding half hour for a total of 8 bells.
E. N. Welch marine clock
This is not a ship’s bell clock. However, this is a clock that can be used at sea or in a rail car that simply tells the time. Lever and balance wheel escapement clocks are ideal for ship or train applications because pendulum clocks on do not work in those environments.
The movement was made for the E. N. Welch Clock Co. and I would date it around 1860, so, a 162 year old time-only clock with a balance wheel escapement and a seconds bit running off the second wheel.
The clock was bought at auction earlier this year.
The case is dirty but there are no veneer issues
From the photo above the case appears to be very stressed but under that grime and blackish tarnish could be a jewel of a clock.
Tarnished brass
The exterior of the clock has probably not been cleaned in decades or perhaps not at all.
In the old days folks cared for their furniture with weekly or monthly waxing/wiping/dusting or polishing of brass. That was simply the accepted practice. Items were not designed to be thrown-away and it was common to hold onto possessions as long as practicable.
This little clock has certainly been neglected over the years although there is nothing missing, the movement runs just fine and the open spade hands are likely original. Yes, it is dirty! You might call it patina and many collectors would accept the wear and tear over the years as part of the character of the clock. I take the view that it was meant to be shown and a little bit of intervention is perfectly acceptable.
I don’t have time to service the movement and it can wait till later this year but I was able to clean the case and polish the brass.
The brass took a lot of elbow grease and I am sure I went through half a bottle of Brasso but I like the final result. The case required cleaning with Murphy’s soap and one coat of traditionally prepared shellac.
Before
Since it is a 30-hour clock I doubt I will be running it much and servicing the movement can wait.
After
In the meantime I have an Empire gallery clock that I would like to service for summer cottage duty.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
PS writes;
I have a 35+ year old Ridgeway Tall Case “Sussex” clock that was severely damaged in transit. It is my parents 35th wedding anniversary gift to themselves from back in the mid 80’s. They have both passed and I inherited it. It was shipped from Chicago to Phoenix where I live last month and when it arrived it was crushed pretty severely. All of the weights are dented and scuffed, the face is detached from the case and the case itself was all but destroyed.
Similar to the Sussex
The carrier is requiring me to get a detailed repair estimate, which I am more than happy to pay you for. The insurance on the freight was $3500.00 and was one of the highest policies available. Now they want a detailed breakdown estimate for repairs, which will likely exceed the 3500.00 it is insured for.
Can you please help me with this? And if you could, I would be happy to pay for your estimating services.
Please let me know so I know how to proceed.
My reply:
As I am not a professional appraiser all I can do is give some advice.
I am sorry to tell you that while your Sussex clock may have cost your parents $3500 in the 1980s it is worth far less today. I have a similar model in my dining room. It is in excellent condition but it is worth no more than $500CDN. They are simply not collectible and grandfather clocks generally are not sought after unless they have historical value or a special provenance. You will be paying many more times what it is worth to repair it. Although for sentimental reasons the cost may not be important.
I have two suggestions. One, take whatever money you can get from the carrier without having to justify a breakdown of the cost. The carrier is engaging in a stall technique and may not even agree with any appraisal you submit to them. In other words take the money and run.
My second suggestion is to find another Ridgeway Sussex (or similar model) and marry the best parts of the two clocks. Chances are you will have good weights, and good glass etc. from the replacement clock. A replacement Sussex (or similar model) should not cost more than $500 and may well be much cheaper. It will take some looking around but they do come up on auction or for-sale sites occasionally.
Clock face showing moon dial
I have another bit of advice. Your grandfather clock movement (the mechanical works) is at the end of or near the end of its service life. The movements in these clocks were generally designed to last about 25 years. It may last longer but it is living on borrowed time. They can be repaired ($$$) but replacing the movement is more cost effective.
Marine movements were in high demand by the 1850s as boat and rail traffic increased. The marine movement is a specific type that does not have a pendulum. Pendulum clocks do not work on a ship or train because they require a stable base. A marine clock has either a balance wheel or lever escapement and were the perfect choice at sea.
This is an E. N. Welch 30-hour marine clock.
Many makers including E.N Welch would buy ready made movements from other shops, assemble them and sell the finished product under their name.
A short history of E. N. Welch. The E. N Welch company was formed on July 6, 1864. Elisha N. Welch (1809 to 1887) had been making clocks at a factory site on East Main Street at Forestville, Conn. since taking over the bankrupt business of J. C. Brown in or about 1856.
Marine style clock by E. N. Welch
The Welch firm was well known for its handsome rosewood cases, though in 1885, with changing styles in furniture, the surviving firm began to introduce new models with solid walnut cases and discontinued some of the older rosewood veneered cases.
After the death of Elisha Welch in 1887, the firm steadily declined, selling off some of its assets and issuing new stock to raise much needed capital. In May of that year the factory was closed down and a receiver was appointed. The receiver spent nearly two years selling off stock and settling the debts of the firm. It was not until 1896 that the firm resumed production.
But the company continued to struggle, would not survive and in 1902 its assets were bought by the Sessions Clock Co.
This movement was not made by E. N. Welch but was sourced from Laporte Hubbell. There were many variations of this movement but the basic two plate layout was identical. In this particular movement the minute wheel is in the two o’clock position and there is the addition of a seconds arbour running off the second wheel just above the “maker’s” stamp. From 1857 to 1863 the E. N. Welch Co. used this 2-plate, 30 hour marine movement. The exact year? Certainly no later than 1863. (source, NAWCC Watch & Clock bulletin, Nov-Dec 2013)
Otherwise, the case is in good condition with two small veneer chips, the brass bezel is very dirty, almost black from years of grime, the dial has minor losses and the movement is running well at this point though at its fastest speed it is running slow.
The plan is to service the movement, and refresh the case. It should be a fun little project.
Won at auction this spring is a Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse ogee with splat although this one is missing the splat, the decorative piece on top of the case.
According to the label it was made in or after 1843.
It was also missing the suspension spring and pendulum rod and the wire with regulating screw for the pendulum bob.
Daniel Pratt Jr reverse ogee clock
There are a few other things that are not quite right. The green banding that frames the upper and lower glass looks a little strange and likely added later and the card stock which would have replaced either a mirror or reverse painted tablet looks out of place. The picture of a young soldier holding a sabre and an American flag looks quite old.
But it actually works and works well.
It has a time and strike 30-hour woodworks movement. Wood-works movements were introduced in American at the end of the 18th century and the high point of woodworks movement production was prior to the depression of 1837. During the depression most clock production was shut down and small companies began to consolidate into larger ones.
Wood-works movement
With the invention of the 30-hour brass movement by Noble Jerome, clock making began to boom again in 1838. Inexpensive woodworks movements continued to be made but by the mid 1840s the woodworks movement production had begun to phase out.
Count wheel on left, escape wheel in the middle
This movement works
The weight cord on the right side looks like it would let go at any time but what the heck, let’s see if this thing works. The green one for the strike side looks sturdy. I will restring the clock later.
I removed the verge and determined there was no power getting to the escape wheel. I felt underneath and although the weight had been wound to the top of the case the cord was binding on the main wheel. It took a little encouragement to bring the weight further down but the adjustment did the trick. I then fashioned a new suspension rod/spring from my supplies along with a pendulum wire, gave the pendulum a gentle push and success!
About 3 hours later as the weight on the time side was descending I noticed the cable had broken at some point and a past owner had simple tied the two ends together. I believe the knot was causing the power issue.
I had already tested the strike side and it was working perfectly.
I have one other Daniel Pratt Jr. clock in much better condition but the movement will not run for more than a few minutes. This one has a splat.
So, one Pratt with a not-so-good case and a working movement and the other with a stunning case but a non-working movement. Should I do a swap?
Daniel Pratt Jr with woodworks movement
I have never disassembled a woodworks movement in my years of clock repair and I doubt that many clock repairers have much experience with one. It is one of the few movement types I have zero experience with but I may have to bite the bullet some day because this clock will not run forever.
The past two years has been like nothing we have ever experienced in our lifetime. Things are improving day by day, folks are re-establishing their routines, the country is opening up and everything will no doubt return to normal in the months to come. Some would say we are in a “new world”?
How will future generations judge this dark period of our lives?
The lake our Shanghai-La
It is time to relax, slow down and for my wife and I that means a change of scenery as we travel to our cottage in central Canada to spend the summer season with friends and family. Our get-away plan for the summer is to relax with a few good books, do a little fishing, swimming, hiking and exchange stories with friends and neighbours over a glass (or two, or three) of wine.
Since many of my articles have been written well in advance of the summer months there will be NO interruption in blog posts through the summer months. I will continue to maintain a steady output of 7 to 9 clock blog articles per month.
An Ansonia cottage clock with the dial removed for testing and spaghetti for lunch
Keep those cards letters coming as 1960s TV variety host Dean Martin once said. There may be a slight delay returning your email inquiry or responding to blog post comments but rest assured that question(s) about your clock or comments regarding any of my posts are important to me and will be answered.
Roasting marshmallows
This blog profiles my own clock collection, the challenges of maintaining and repairing clocks, the joys of finding new and interesting vintage and antique clocks plus many articles of horological interest.
As we explore central Canada I will no doubt find interesting clocks as we scour antique stores, flea markets and junk shops. New clock stories, new repair challenges and perhaps the next major restoration project will also be part of my journey this summer.
Canadian Clock Museum, Deep River Ontario
Included will be a trip to The Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario to discover new and interesting clocks added to their collection and chat with curator Allan Symons.
Use the search box to browse past articles and/or click “follow” to have clock articles brought to your mailbox every three to four days. I hope you enjoy reading them as much as I enjoy researching each and every article.
The National Day of Canada is observed as a statutory holiday on July 1st.
This post has nothing to with clock collecting or repair but why not take the time to celebrate Canada’s 155th birthday.
How it started
On June 20th 1868, a proclamation signed by the Governor General, Lord Monck, called upon all Her Majesty’s loving subjects throughout Canada to join in the celebration of the anniversary of the formation of the union of the British North America provinces in a federation under the name of Canada on July 1st 1867, with the passing of the British North American Act of 1867. This was when four colonies united.
Photo by Erik Mclean on Pexels.com, showing the Peace Tower on Parliament Hill
The July 1st holiday was established by statute in 1879, under the name “Dominion Day”.
It was not until 1917 that larger scale and more extravagant celebrations commenced. Remember this was during the war years (WWI) when Canada needed an event to lift it from the stresses of overseas conflict.
Since 1958, the government has arranged for an annual observance of Canada’s national day. The format provided for a Trooping the Colours ceremony, by the Ceremonial Guard on the lawn of Parliament Hill in the afternoon, a sunset ceremony in the evening followed by a mass band concert and fireworks display.
The format changed in 1968 with the addition of multicultural and professional concerts.
In 1981 celebrations with the addition of fireworks displays were held in 15 major cities across the nation.
On October 27th 1982, the year Canada’s Constitution was repatriated from Britain, July 1st which was known as “Dominion Day” became “Canada Day”.
Other than the interruption caused by the Pandemic the ceremony on the Hill has been held every year since 1958.
Happy Canada Day everyone and all the best to those of you who celebrate your country’s independence day.
I knew when I first laid eyes on the clock that it was missing something, the crown.
It’s too bad because it is very attractive Hamburg American Company or HAC 8-day time and strike mantel or parlour clock.
HAC mantel clock
The little plaque on the base references 1926 the year it was presented to a pastor in England presumably for years of faithful service. I think the clock was made a few years earlier. Back in those days clocks like this might have sat on a Merchant’s shelf for years.
The chap I bought it from said it was an English clock but I knew right away that it was German. It has that distinctive German look and style of a clock made after 1900. Since he was a clock collector he should have known by looking at the trademark on the back of the movement. Oh well!
Time and strike movement
Okay, back to the crown. I have another HAC time and strike with a crown.
HAC mantel clock
I am willing to bet that the crown on my new acquisition was either very similar or exactly like the one on a HAC I bought a year ago. It fits exactly into the slot on the top.
Now with a crown
A crown makes a difference. You can see that adding a crown transforms the clock. It made be subtle but there is a difference. The problem I have now is, should I leave on this clock or the other?
Let’s clear something up right away: I am not a “Dunkin Swish” enthusiast. If you’ve been researching the clock-collecting world for a while, you might have come across this term. If you haven’t, consider yourself lucky—it’s something best avoided at all costs.
“Dunkin Swish” (apologies to those named Duncan) refers to the practice of placing an assembled movement into a cleaning solution or an ultrasonic cleaning machine, drying it off, and then declaring it “clean.” This is the absolute worst method for cleaning a clock movement and is never a good way to clean mainsprings within their spring barrels.
Why? Only by disassembling the movement can you properly inspect parts, polish pivots, peg holes, and thoroughly remove the dirt and grime that accumulate in the small crevices of a movement—buildup that will accelerate wear over time.
There is only one method to properly clean a clock movement, and complete disassembly, which includes removing mainsprings from their barrels/arbours.
Here are the steps I always follow when cleaning clock parts.
Hermle movement parts after cleaning
In most cases, clock parts can be safely cleaned using an ultrasonic cleaning machine. However, in rare instances, when working with something very old and delicate, hand cleaning may be the only viable option.
For the purposes of this article, I will assume that most clocks you work on are standard common-place brass mechanical movement types found worldwide.
Let’s get started.
Pre-cleaning
Once I have the movement disassembled, I clean any stubborn stains and wipe off excess oil from the parts beforehand. From experience, I’ve learned that while an ultrasonic cleaner works remarkably well, it’s not a magic solution—tough stains don’t always come off easily in the cleaner.
Pre-cleaning has an additional benefit: it extends the life of the cleaning solution. The solution can be reused multiple times, but once it becomes too dirty or cloudy to see through, I dispose of it. Proper disposal can be a challenge, which is why I always opt for a non-ammoniated, biodegradable solution.
I also clean all the pivot holes with peg wood or toothpicks and remove oil from the pivots beforehand. Additionally, I wipe away excess oil and dirt from the mainsprings.
The ultrasonic cleaner
In the early days of my clock repair work, I used an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaning machine. It was adequate for small jewelry items and acceptable for clock parts, but as I could afford something better, I decided to invest in a commercial-grade product.
Ultrasonic cleaner
I came across many Chinese-made ultrasonic cleaners on Amazon and eBay. While some may have had positive experiences with these machines, and the prices are certainly appealing, I was looking for something of higher quality and with a solid warranty. I have no issue with Chinese ultrasonic machines, but I would only consider them if they offered a reliable return policy and warranty.
I chose L&Rfor two main reasons: their reputation and warranty. I get no credit for mentioning this company, but the link will allow you to explore their product line to find the right size for your needs. After four years of continuous use, my L&R cleaning machine has performed flawlessly. L&R meets all of my requirements.
L&R Quantrex Q140, 3.2L with heater
The Q140 with heater is the size I opted for. It will hold one complete movement but is a tight fit for larger movements. Its smaller size means less cleaning solution is used and quicker heat-up times.
A high-quality ultrasonic cleaner will not disappoint. While there may be other brands that are equally good or even better, you generally get what you pay for.
Using an Ultrasonic Cleaner
Ultrasonic cleaners use cavitation, generated by ultrasonic waves, to clean objects made of non-absorbent materials. Ultrasonic cleaning effectively removes dirt, grease, and other contaminants from delicate components without causing damage. Just look at how bright and shiny this 30-hour movement looks after ultrasonic cleaning. That said, achieving an absolutely shiny movement is not the goal.
30-hour movement after cleaning in Ultrasonic
Should everything go into the ultrasonic cleaner? Avoid mixing metals beyond brass and steel in the cleaner as they may react with each other. I also avoid placing anything plastic in it. Some modern clock movements with plastic or nylon gears and parts should be cleaned separately and not placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. Hammer heads made of leather should not be placed in an ultrasonic.
Use your own judgment with friction-fit parts, such as a center gear and pinion, as there is a risk of damaging them if you’re not confident they can be reassembled easily. Otherwise, disassemble as much of the movement as possible.
Choose the Right Cleaning Solution
Avoid using flammable substances such as alcohol, gasoline, or other volatile liquids. These can vaporize, potentially causing a fire or explosion, and release harmful gases into the workspace. Inhaling these toxic fumes is never safe.
Only solutions that are specifically designed for an ultrasonic cleaner should be used. Among acceptable cleaners is Polychem Deox 007 as a cleaning solution that works effectively. The mix is 5 to 1 ratio with water and it is free of odour. According to their product brochure Deox-007 is “an environmentally friendly, non-ammoniated concentrate cleaner. It is mildly alkaline for the efficient removal of oils, grease, tarnish, stains, corrosion, and oxidation from brass, bronze, copper, gold, and silver”. Once it has outlived its usefulness it can be safely dumped down the drain.
Wire basket holding an American-style movement in the ultrasonic before thesolution is added
Many cleaners have a safe fill line, typically about 1 inch from the top of the tank. Whether you’re cleaning one part or several, always ensure the solution reaches this fill line.
A stainless steel wire basket is also necessary as it is not advisable to place parts directly on the bottom of the cleaning tank. A stainless steel wire basket is necessary because placing parts directly on the bottom of the cleaning tank can cause them to become damaged. The basket keeps the parts elevated, allowing the ultrasonic waves to clean them evenly without contact with the tank surface.
Not quite dirty enough to throw away
Although I always drain the solution after each use, I understand for the sake of convenience why some repairers leave it in the tank if the ultrasonic cleaner is used daily.
No cleaning method I’m aware of is as effective at cleaning lantern pinions as an ultrasonic cleaner. The results are truly remarkable.
The Ultrasonic Session
I pre-heat the solution which involves pouring in the solution, turning on the heater, and allowing the ultrasonic to come up to temperature. It takes about 10 minutes.
Green heater switch
I typically run the ultrasonic for 20-30 minutes, which is usually sufficient for most jobs. On rare occasions, I’ve run parts through a second time.
Next is drying all the parts and this is where speed is essential. It is surprising how quickly rust forms on the steel parts. I use shop towels and for difficult locations such as lantern pinions, I use a hair dryer. Occasionally, if my wife is baking I will put the parts in the oven during its cool-down phase.
Years ago, some repairers salvaged parts from discarded hot-air popcorn machines, but I don’t see those around anymore. Additionally, in the past, some repairers designed heat boxes using a light bulb, but today’s LED bulbs run far too cool.
Sessions mainsprings are cleaned and ready to be re-installed in the movement
If you choose to place mainsprings in the ultrasonic cleaner, it’s important to dry them as quickly as possible.
There are two reasons why you might prefer to clean them by hand. First, they can be easily cleaned on a spring winder, and second, the solution will become dirty very quickly, shortening its lifespan.
Cleaning a mainspring
One could clean in phases—first the time side, then the strike side—if drying is a concern. Ultimately, it’s up to personal preference.
Using a small metal lathe to buff the Wheels
To buff the wheels using a small metal lathe, securely mount the wheel on the lathe’s spindle and gently apply an emery board to the wheel. Run the lathe at a low speed, applying light pressure to achieve a smooth, shiny finish.
Next, clean the pivots with an emery board. To clean the pivots with an emery board, lightly hold the board against the pivot while moving the emery board up and down at a low speed. Use gentle, consistent pressure to remove any grime or oxidation without altering the pivot’s shape or surface. Use a soft cloth to wipe off any excess residue from the pivots.
Polishing a pivot
Next Steps
Once everything is dry, the next phase involves any necessary bushing or pivot work, followed by reassembly and testing.
So, that’s the method I follow. If you have a different technique or additional steps that you include in your process, I’d love to hear about them.
Some years ago I had this brainy idea that I would have a trio of time zone clocks above our main computer in the kitchen so, when one of our children called, all we had to do was glance at the wall to see what local time it was in their region.
Back then we had a daughter in Victoria, British Columbia, another in Calgary, Alberta, and a son in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Our daughter has since moved to Ottawa, Ontario.
It was a great idea but not perfect.
Trio of clocks representing 3 time zones
The New Haven time and strike clock (the middle one in the photo above) was not as small as I wanted but it was all I had at the time. The New Haven clock was eventually gifted and replaced by an Ansonia time-only which was also still too large.
Ansonia time-only clock
The search was on for a third 14-inch drop octagon time-only clock to complete the trio. It did not matter who the maker was. It took a while but as luck would have I saw one on an online auction in the spring of this year.
It is a Sessions time-only drop octagon and identical in dimensions to the two others.
The trouble was I was not going to pay a reserve auction bid of $100CDN (79US, 63GBP). As much as I wanted the clock the price was too high though some of you may disagree.
It appeared to be in very good condition judging from the auction photos and there was nothing much wrong with it except for incorrect minute and hour hands (it would have had longer and thicker closed spade hands).
Sessions time-only clock
We had already purchased 4 clocks at this particular online auction and elected to pick them up instead of having them shipped.
When my wife called to ensure someone was there when we arrived at the auction house she was told that all unsold clocks would be individually priced and sold without tax and buyer’s premium. Luckily the Sessions was one of few unsold clocks but the price was half the reserve. So, we bought it and now it graces our wall.
The newest(middle)in our trio of clocks, from left to right, Sessions, Sessions, Waterbury
Two Sessions and a Waterbury clock. They all look great!
When I placed my online bid on this time-only gallery-style clock (local auction house) in June 1922 I had hoped it had a fusee movement since a clock with a fusee movement has always been on my wish list.
A fusee (from the French fusée, wire wound around a spindle) is a cone-shaped pulley with a helical groove around it, wound with a cord or chain which is attached to the mainspring barrel. A fusee movement improves timekeeping by equalizing the power of the mainspring over its rated running cycle. In short, it keeps better time than a conventional spring driven clock throughout its 8-day cycle.
This clock does not have a fusee movement!
Auction photo
It’s still a nice clock, however!
Most would agree that this a gallery clock, but it is also known in some circles as a pub, office, domestic or canteen clock. The dial face is 10 inches across and the case measures 14 inches in diameter. It has Roman Numerals with spade hour hand and a rod minute hand. The wood surround, which is in very good condition, appears to be mahogany. It has a high quality conventional spring driven time-only movement.
Am I disappointed that it is not a fusee? Well, a little! But the price I paid was far less than a fusee would have cost.
The movement is rather large for a time-only movement and is well built. It is attached to a heavy steel plate that is screwed onto the front of the movement. The whole assembly mounts just under the dial. It has a very German look to it, though it is definitely English-made.
Steel plate
To access the movement the dial must be removed which is a relatively simple process of removing the hands and three small screws.
Time-only movement made by Empire
Four slotted screws secure the movement to the steel plate.
An curious feature is a cylindrical pendulum with a large rotating adjustment screw on the bottom. The pendulum clips into a two piece caddy system for easy transport.
Cylinder pendulum and transport caddy
The movement is stamped “Empire” with #6617 and “made in England” at the bottom of the rear plate. The movement plates have an interesting checker-board design not unlike some German clocks of the time.
The Empire brand was introduced by The English Clock & Watch Company (a merger of H Williamson & Grimshaw & Baxter) in 1924. The company was short-lived and purchased by Smiths in 1932. Although Smiths acquired the Empire trade names there is no indication the Empire name continued after 1932.
This catalogue image below describes the clock in various configurations. “GB” refers to Grimshaw & Baxter, J.J.E Ltd, is a mystery to me, a distributor perhaps.
It needs a good cleaning but I’ll run it a week or two first and service the movement.
An English gallery clock that is made to look like a fusee that isn’t!
I never actually went to this auction but participated online. It is not quite the same as the rush of bidding in a live auction hall but exciting in its own way.
This particular auction had quite a number of clocks but I would say that most were in rough or what I would call “hobby-ready” condition.
I was looking at one particular clock but three more grabbed my attention. A total of four clocks, two shelf clocks, and two wall clocks.
My budget was $300CDN and I stuck to it. I set the maximum I would pay for each item and placed all bids within the last minute of the auction and walked away from the computer. For two of the clocks, I was prepared to let them go if bidding got too high but at the end of the day I won all four. With fees and taxes, the final invoice was $379 (a little over $300US and 240BP).
Bidding online is always a gamble. What the photos reveal does not always tell you what you are getting and I have been surprised more than once. I have a number of other photos from the auction but these are a good representation.
Hamilton Clock Co.
30-hour Ogee clock
Clock number one is a 30-hour weight-driven ogee made by the Hamilton Clock Co. based in Hamilton, Ontario in the late 19th century. This was a clock I was anxious to have since I am in the process of building a small collection of Canadian-made clocks.
I have one other clock from The Hamilton Clock Co., a 30-hour time and strike steeple clock, and one from the Canada Clock Co., a 30-hour time and strike cottage clock.
I am grouping the two companies together because one essentially grew from the other and made clocks within the same factory and with the same machinery.
Those two have etched lower tablets as on this new acquisition.
Canada Clock Co. Hamilton Cottage Extra
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock
The Hamilton Clock Co was formed in 1876 and went out of business in 1880, a very short run for a clock company, unfortunately. The exact year of manufacture is unknown but I may know more when I receive the clock.
This clock looks like every 30-hour ogee ever made and that was the original intent, a familiar clock style that appeals to the masses. The dimensions of this Canadian-made ogee are very similar to American-made ogees and the movements, though made in Canada, are essentially indistinguishable (minor differences aside) from 30-hour ogee time and strike movements made by a number of American manufacturers of the time.
The clock appears to be intact, has its own weights and the lower etched glass tablet seems to be in fine shape judging from the auction photos but the case will need a thorough cleaning and some veneer work.
Daniel Pratt Jr
Clock number two is a Daniel Pratt Jr which I’d like to call a reverse ogee with a splat top but the splat top is missing.
I have just one Daniel Pratt Jr clock in my collection and it has an early woodworks movement. The older Pratt clock shows what the splat should look like.
Daniel Pratt Jr with woodworks movement
Reverse ogee and “splat“
According to the label on which the date 1843 is inscribed, one can assume that this is the date of manufacture, approximately.
In any event, it may have a woodworks movement. There were still a few companies who continued with the cost-effective woodworks movement but by that time the rolled brass plate movements were becoming more common.
The loss of the splat top certainly makes the clock less desirable but it was one of the cheaper clocks in this grouping and, who knows, I might have a splat made, we’ll see.
Label, weights and pendulum bob
The green banding on the upper and lower glass sections looks somewhat suspicious and could have been added later. This clock also comes with weights and what looks to be an authentic-looking pendulum bob.
The lower tablet might just be a card-stock image, again, likely not original but old nonetheless. The dial has some losses but what there is of the case looks good.
Unknown gallery clock
Clock number three is an unknown gallery clock. I have no idea of the maker and cannot even guess. I took a chance and I hope the gamble pays off.
Gallery clock
The auction information describes it as 14 inches in diameter so I am assuming the clock face is about 10 inches or so. The hands look very interesting, the case looks well-made (mahogany?) and the clock definitely has a mid to late 1800s English look.
The centrally located winding arbour tells me that it has a time-only mechanical movement.
Back of the clock
The dial looks to have been redone but I am more curious about the movement inside.
A shot of the movement from the bottom
I am not sure what I am seeing in the photo above. Certainly, a homemade door catch on the left and a large gear (perhaps a mainspring barrel), and cylinder-shaped pendulum bob. Fusee movement? I doubt it. I think it has a conventional spring-driven time-only movement but I will know in a few days.
Six-inch gallery or ships style clock
The last is a smaller gallery, ships, or marine-style clock which is spring-driven with a balance wheel. The speed adjsutment lever below the 12 is the give-away.
It is 8 1/2 inches in diameter (6-inch dial), key wound time-only 30-hour clock with a seconds bit. I cannot even guess who the maker is but could be a Waterbury, E N Welch, or some other American manufacturer.
The chunky oak case needs some attention but with a good cleaning and a coat or two of shellac, it should show nicely. Apparently, it is in working order.
Okay, so, two clock makers I am familiar with and two unknowns. I wonder what surprises await me when I open up the two unknown clocks.
In a day or so we shall see what we get. We are driving down to the auction house in the next couple of days but we will make something of our 3+ hour journey and enjoy the sites, have lunch in Annapolis Royal (Nova Scotia) and do some antiquing along the way.
The psychology of auctions, now that would be a fascinating study. How bidders behave, the frenzy of bidding wars often called “auction fever“, and the emotions wrapped into the pursuit of that one item everybody seems to want would be very enlightening.
Ingraham 30 hour cottage clock, under $30 at auction
Auctions are fantastic places to find great deals. I have found many clocks at auction for exceptional prices and have few regrets.
This post will explore how to use auction rules to the best advantage based on my experience and my observations. Presented are Ron’s tips that I have found effective. The focus is on online auction houses. eBay is another world but I suppose some of my advice may apply.
The photos on this page are auction wins over the past two years.
The classic auction
Although there are other types, the classic type of auction is where a seller sets the price, plus a time limit and bidders are encouraged to bid on the item. The highest bidder wins. This type of auction remains popular because of the familiarity and intuitive nature of the process.
Auctions can be live or online but online auctions are becoming much more common.
Using the “watch list” if offered
Many auction sites have a “watch list” which is a cool method of bookmarking the items you may (or may not) bid on. I generally peruse the auction offerings and click the watch button for those that interest me and in so doing generate a “list” of ten to twenty items for potential bids.
I hold off on bidding until I can determine which ones interest me the most, how much I am prepared to pay, and the total I have budgeted for the auction. I attempt to work within my budget but may make some adjustments during the auction.
The watch list also allows for a sober second thought before or during any auction. Put another way, I thought I wanted the item before but now I don’t.
Why you should not bid early
Auction sites want people to bid early to show everyone there is interest in the item. By revealing interest in the item others might be tempted to bid and this will drive up the bids. This benefits the auction house which makes more money on any item that sells higher. Novice auction goers are easily caught in this trap. Try not to get caught up bidding too high and too early in an auction even if it is something you really want. Fight the urge!
Establishing a limit
I consider each item carefully based on the photos and descriptions provided, determine what I would pay for the item in optimal condition, and factor in wear and tear or any parts missing in order to set an upper limit for my bid.
A tactic that works surprisingly well is to determine a maximum price on an item when the auction opens, make that bid and leave the auction.
Scottish tall case clock, $275 plus fees and taxes
Let’s say I bid $60, then leave the auction site. The next day or after the auction has ended, I will know if I won within my limit, or lost.If monitoring the auction a green win button will light on what you have won otherwise auction houses send out invoices after the auction has ended detailing items you have won. Winning is very satisfying, of course, but losing is not such a terrible thing, there is plenty of fish in the sea.
Others participating in the auction might also have set the same limit for themselves on a particular item. If I’m willing to spend $60, am I willing to spend $5 more (assuming a bid increment is $5). If I bid just higher than my limit assuming my limit is the same as others, I may still win the item without ignoring the budget I have set for the auction.
Without determining your limit, it’s too easy to get into a bidding war that might go something like this, “I was willing to spend $75, and I was outbid at $80. I could go $5 more and bid $85 but if I lose it at $85, $10 is only a tiny bit more”, and so on.
Stay within the upper limit and do not get caught up in a last-second feeding frenzy.
Auction “estimates”
This is just another method of forcing the bid higher. Ignore auction estimates unless there is a “reserve” on the item. A reserve price is a minimum price that a seller would be willing to accept from a buyer. In an auction, the seller is not typically required to disclose the reserve price to potential buyers. If the reserve price is not met, the seller is not required to sell the item, even to the highest bidder.
Proxy bidding
Most auction sites allow proxy bidding, meaning they will keep your bid as low as possible so you can win, but not exceed your maximum limit.
It works this way. I decide on a $60 upper limit and the auction’s bid increments are $5. At the start someone bids $5, I have set my bid at $60 but currently have the winning bid at $10. If someone else bids $25, my bid automatically goes to $30. They come back at $35, and my bid automatically goes to $40. If the auction ends at that point, I won the item for $40. If someone else came back before the auction ended with a $65 bid, then they win, but I do not exceed my limit. I then walk away from that item and focus on the next.
Rare items
Rare items that are desirable can be expensive. Humans tend to overvalue things they think are rare. However, thinking an item is rare might influence you to bid higher. The item may, in fact, be quite common. Do your research beforehand, or even during the auction.
For example, ogee-style clocks that some people would consider to be quite rare are, in fact, very common as thousands were produced by many American manufacturers over a span of 70 odd years.
Chauncey Jerome ogee clock, $35 at auction
Not so hidden feesand costs
There are additional fees and taxes as you would expect. Auction fees called “buyer’s Premium” is set by the auction house. The buyer’s premium is a percentage that is an additional charge on the hammer piece of the lot which is paid by the winner. Some auction houses will call it a service fee but think of it as a commission.
Buyers’ premiums may be higher for online auctions than live auctions and the percentage varies from auction house to auction house, typically between 15% and 20%. Some auction houses may even have an additional service fee above the buyer’s premium. Add taxes to determine the final price. A winning bid of $60 with a 15% buyer’s premium (our local auction houses) and sales taxes of 15% (Nova Scotia) pushes the final price to $79.35. It is the final price assuming you can jump into your car and bring the item home, otherwise, there are shipping costs. Suddenly your $60 win costs $200.
As a general rule, I do not request antique clocks to be shipped as the risk of breakage is too high.
The psychology of ownership
Here’s how it works. While you hold the winning bid, you begin to feel a sense of ownership, and the longer one holds the bid the stronger the sense of ownership. When outbid, you may think someone is trying to steal something from you and you want it back but now you are caught up in bid frenzy. To get it back you bid higher. However, even if you win the item you still lose because you have likely overpaid for it. Buyer’s remorse is the sense of regret after having paid too much.
Related is the Endowment Effect, meaning people will assign more value to an item that they own purely because they own it. This type of behaviour is typically triggered with items that have a strong emotional or symbolic significance to the individual such as something they had as a child or other nostalgic item.
A pocketful of money
Let’s say I plan on spending $500 at an online auction including buyer’s premium, tax, and shipping, so, I am limiting my actual bidding to approximately $300. Perhaps I am looking at only two items in the auction. For one I’m willing to go to $100, and for the other, I’m willing to bid up to $200 for a total of $300. I win the first item (for which I was willing to spend $100) for $25. I can now decide whether I should spend $200 on the second item, or if I’m now willing to go up to $275.
Determining a budget limit introduces an element of self-control and allows one to refocus attention on other auction offerings. It is also helpful when you are not watching the auction when it ends.
This is always an individual choice based on how much you feel the items are worth and what your research is telling you.
Ansonia Canada parlour clock, part of a $30 lot
Clock auctionhouses
An auction that consists only of antique clocks is a tough one to navigate and to win an item at a decent price. These auctions attract all manner of collectors and you might be bidding against a very determined collector who will want an item at any cost.
I find the prices in antique clock auctions to be generally quite high and unless you are looking for that special clock it is best to avoid them unless money is no object. I have much better success with estate auctions that do not generally attract dedicated clock collectors so, for the most part, you are bidding against people who have poor knowledge of antique and vintage clocks.
I suppose there are plenty of other strategies but these are the ones that have worked for me.
The Grand Assortment was sold “six in a case” to retailers who then sold them separately. The name “Assortment” seems appropriate and I am not surprised that some collectors refer to them simply as the Grand. So, was the “Assortment” a choice among a number of Grands (Grand 1, Grand 2, etc.)?
Auction Photo
Selling clocks in lots of 6 was a fairly common practice in the early part of the 20th century. An individual might order one of the clocks either directly from Sessions or working through a retailer but would normally select one from the retailer’s shelf.
This clock was bought at auction in the spring (of 2022). The plan is to fix it up and sell it to offset a recent equipment acquisition. I am not normally in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to keep my collection manageable.
The clock case needs quite a bit of work which I will address in a future article.
The movement looks good but it is very grimy, no surprise there. We’ll get to that later in this post.
The Sessions dial
The dial, however, may not be salvageable. One option is a new paper dial, and another is a replacement with a suitable and period-correct alternative. I have the same size Arabic dial from an Ingraham gingerbread that I might use. Manufacturers interchanged Roman Numerals and Arabic dials on some models and I have seen at least one Grand Assortment on the internet with an Arabic dial so, an Arabic dial may be a good look.
These Sessions models were around for a number of years up to 1915 or so and like everything else the gingerbread clock fell out of style. I imagine this one sat on a shelf as a decoration for a good number of years after that.
The movement
Apart from having an even coating of dirt and grime all over the movement, there is surprisingly little wear.
A very dirty movement
Most Sessions movements I have come across have had a hard life and usually require a fair bit of intervention in terms of repairs including numerous new bushings. This movement may not need any as far as I can determine during my initial assessment. As a matter of fact, this is probably the least worn Sessions movement I have ever worked on. It is not without issues, however.
Judging from pivot scratch marks, wrench marks on the plate around the pillar nuts, mangled helper wires, and a replacement spring for the click on the time side it certainly has been worked on in the past, likely cleaned more than once.
A coating of dirt all over the movement
There was a film of rust on the mainsprings, not enough to write them off and they still have plenty of power left in them.
Trademark
Clicks are a documented weakness in Sessions’ movements. Both sides were in good condition although I had to re-attach the click spring on the time side. A past repairer had attempted a fix and replaced the original wire with a steel replacement wire that looks homemade, but it works. It just needed tightening.
The helper springs were evidently broken at some point and shortened. One was wrapped around the top pillar post and the lifting lever was wrapped around the count lever. Both should be attached to a pillar. I was able to reuse one but the other had to be replaced.
Helper springs top center
Most, but not all, American time and strike clocks have helper springs to maintain tension on lifting and locking levers. Springs are occasionally removed from a movement either because they are broken and/or repairers do not understand their function.
New helper spring
The mainsprings are in good condition. They were cleaned and oiled.
Mainspring retention clip to restrain the power of the springs
No bushing work is required for this movement which is a rarity for old American clocks I have come across. All pivots were polished, pivot holes pegged out and now for reassembly.
This is a fairly easy movement to reassemble but the strike side count and drop levers must be in the correct position in order for the strike side to function correctly. That means the drop lever is in the slot of the cam and the count lever is in the deep slot of the count wheel. The lock pin on the wheel just below the fan must also be next to the locking lever.
Sometimes I get it right the first time but often I must separate the plates on the top corner and re-adjust the locking wheel.
Everything in place but the escape wheel
Once re-assembled it is placed on the test stand for several cycles.
On the test stand
The next step is addressing the clock case finish.
The clock case needs quite a bit of work and may require stripping, not something I do as a matter of routine but in its present condition, it will never attract a buyer.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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