Preserve, Conserve or Restore, a clockmakers dilemma

How far do you go repairing, restoring or conserving a vintage or antique clock without changing it in a significant way?

My daughter. a civil engineer raised the philosophical argument that questions whether an object like a clock that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object. This paradoxical thought exercise is called the Ship of Theseus. Plutarch, a Greek philosopher, asked whether a ship that had been restored by replacing every single wooden part remained the same ship.

The ship wherein Theseus and the youth of Athens returned from Crete had thirty oars, and was preserved by the Athenians down even to the time of Demetrius Phalereus, for they took away the old planks as they decayed, putting in new and stronger timber in their places, in so much that this ship became a standing example among the philosophers, for the logical question of things that grow; one side holding that the ship remained the same, and the other contending that it was not the same. Plutarch, Theseus[2]

Think about it! If something is fundamentally changed is it the same object?

One of our proud provincial symbols in Nova Scotia is a sailing ship called the Bluenose II, our provincial ambassador. The original Bluenose was a fishing and racing schooner that ran aground and sank 90 years ago. To honour the original Bluenose, the Bluenose II was built in the 1960s and sailed for over 50 years until it was determined that she was not seaworthy.

In 2018 the hull of the Bluenose II was rebuilt with new materials. Some items such as rigging, masts, sails, ironwork, deck structures, safety equipment, and electronics were reused. Part of the timeline for future repair involves replacing the masts, sails, rigging, and deck structures. Will the ship retain its identity? To purists, no! To Nova Scotians, yes!

Let’s go beyond the nautical example and apply our example to the lantern clock.

The lantern clock is a clock with a lantern-shaped brass case made for about a century after 1630 or so. Most had one hand, all were weight-driven with a bell on top and sat on a wall bracket. They were the first type of clock widely used in English private homes in the 17th century. Eventually, the lantern clock became obsolete when tall case clocks came into fashion.

Lantern clocks are highly collectible today and those that are in “original” condition are the most desirable. But, almost all of them have been altered, even those considered “genuine”. Check out this quote from a seller of lantern clocks, D. and J. Benson, who are specialists in early English clocks.

We are strong believers that if a clock was converted to a different escapement many years ago, this should be retained, being part of the history of the clock, rather than reconverting clocks back to former guises. Only under compelling circumstances would a clock be returned to a former state. Only absolutely necessary restoration work is carried out in order that the original clock survives for future generations. We conserve rather than replace. D& J Benson

“Compelling circumstances”. Important provenance, perhaps?

Early conversions were from verge to anchor escapement. Later ones had the original movements removed and a fusee movement (single or double) installed. When converted, original movements including alarm mechanisms were taken out, a single-hand was replaced with two hands (or the minute hand added), broken finals and door handles might have replaced, chapter rings re-silvered, doors lost due to their nature of lifting out easily. Therefore, what is the nature of the clock after it has been changed, and how original is it? Does it retain its identity? To purists, no! To the casual collector, yes!

Let’s see how this philosophical argument plays out:

If too much is done to restore a clock is it fundamentally the same and is it considered original even though new parts were made from the same materials using the same methods when the clock was first made?
Do changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original”?
If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock?
If you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity?

This is the dilemma of identity. One more example!

In 2016 I acquired my first weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock. As I worked on the clock I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years such as the brass bezel, hands, glass panels, weights, and even the movement. Although the changes were part of the history of the clock I began to accept the notion that it is what it is and to a casual observer, it looks authentic.

Minimal Invasive Intervention

The term minimal invasive intervention means how far do you go to repair, restore or conserve a clock without changing it in a significant way? Some say that any work performed on an antique clock would diminish its value. Going too far to repair a clock and it begins to lose its attraction and value as a collectable object.

Is a “true collector” more interested in a movement that has never been worked on or one that has been repaired or restored? While it is always desirable to have a running clock most concede that to make a movement actually work, intervention must be accepted (bushing and pivot reconstruction, for example). The question remains; if I want the clock to function, what is the least I can do without changing it in a significant way?

Repair, Restoration, Conservation

Repair; to rectify the faults of a clock in a way that might alter it from its original form (gear replacement, pivot work, bushing work, replacement of some parts)

Restoration; the reconstruction of the movement and clock case to original condition.

Conservation; the protection of a clock using any methods that prove effective in keeping that article in as close to its original condition as possible for as long as possible.

Any amount of intervention is frowned upon by some collectors while some amount of intervention is not only necessary but desired by others and while collectors are always searching for a completely untouched clock, an antique clock in pristine condition that has never been meddled with is a rare find.

Questions, questions, questions…

Is undoing the “damage” caused by a previous poor repair an overly invasive procedure?
If the repair was done shortly after the clock was made and it was a proper repair, was clearly documented as markings inside the clock case, should it be left untouched? (example, a wheel that has a rough tooth repair but functions well). Is the poor repair part of the clock’s historical provenance and should it be left as-is?
Would bringing the movement back to its original state be considered a restoration or a repair?
Will a repair enhance or decrease the value of the clock?
Is a repair or restoration a form of conservation?

My position regarding changes to a clock

My goal is a functional clock that presents well. A non-working clock must become a working clock because that is the nature of its existence. If a clock has important provenance and extensive repairs to the movement and/or case alter it in a negative way and I will leave it alone. But I will always clean a clock case (unless otherwise directed) because as one clockmaker I know put it, “isn’t patina just another word for dirt!”.

When working on a customer’s clock I recommend presenting several options regarding the repair of the movement and addressing case issues. This past year I worked on a customer clock and asked what they wanted to be done. It had a beautifully designed case but a non-functioning movement. Make the clock run they said and replace the broken hands but don’t touch the case even though in my view the case could have used a good cleaning and a fresh coat of shellac. I did what was requested. Is the customer right? Yes!

I will leave you with two examples.

The bob wire that came with a clock appears to be a section of coat hanger wire. Replace it with a proper adjustable bob wire?

On a movement with pinned plates one of the pins is a finishing nail. Replace it with a brass taper pin?

Hell, yes on both counts!

In some circles, this trivial examples like these will provoke a heated argument. Is there a correct answer? Put twelve clockmakers in a room and you will have a thirteen opinions.

June 14, 2021

First blog post – 6 years ago

Clock collecting from a beginner’s perspective. That was the subject of my first blog post six years ago. Since then I have seen a lot of excellent and not-so-good blogs come and go but I wanted to give it my best shot and after 6 years, well, I am still here.

I started with a free WordPress plan, moved to a personal plan and then, this year, to a Premium plan. I now permit advertising on my site but my only goal is to recoup costs for server space and domain name. Anything extra is gravy.

In the early days I would stop blogging in the summer and resume in the fall. That did not work so well as my viewership fell off and I had to rebuild after the holidays. Now I schedule all my articles in advance. In fact, I typically have about 15-18 articles “in the can” at any given time. Having an inventory of articles means there is no need to scramble with something new every 3-4 days, my typical interval between articles. Some of you bloggers must know how hard it is to put words together when inspiration is lacking.

I am not sure what I was expecting 6 years ago but now have a dedicated following, receive many interesting letters each week, have met people through my blog and it seems people appreciate my content. This is reflected in statistics which are the lifeblood of any blog and it’s those daily figures that keep a blogger motivated. For instance, I have more views in a typical day than I had in the first 3 months of my blog.

Not once do I claim to be a professional horologist but after 10+ years in clock repair as a hobbyist I think I know something by now.

Welcome to my first blog post written May 15, 2015 which I will present word for word.

I regard myself as a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a unique talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.

It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock. Why start with a Chinese-made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. It was cheap, it piqued my interest in collecting and repair and it was something to practice on. I then moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, known as the “Fan-top”

My blog will profile clocks in my collection both vintage and antique as well as describe my attempts at repair. Along the way I will seek advice from you, the reader, from clock forum sites and whatever information I can find online.

Clock collecting is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling (and now, writing). Locating good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia and Canada, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting that one-of-a-kind deal.

Most photos on this site are my own. Photos from other sources will be given full credit. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical wonders and anything about their provenance will included as well.

Forestville Westminster chime mantel clock

Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I hope to share my frustrations and my successes.

As Winston Churchill once said, “Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm”.

I have stayed true to form since then and continue to publish 7 to 9 articles per month. Since then I have acquired dozens of antique and vintage clocks from all over Canada and probably have upwards of 80 clocks in my collection at this point. I have also said goodbye to an additional 20 clocks through local sales and as gifts. It remains a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy although occasionally I have done some paid and pro bono work.

If you have stayed with me since the beginning, thank you, but if you are new to my blog or following for the first time, welcome!

Anyway as I said 6 years ago, “Stay tuned”.

May 13, 2021

Replacing a suspension spring on a Seth Thomas #2 Regulator

It should have been an easy fix but often when working with clock movements unexpected issues occasionally crop up.

The clock was purchased in the fall of 2018. This Seth Thomas #2 Regulator has had little done to it except oiling the movement and cleaning up the case. It is one of the most accurate mechanical clocks in my collection which is no surprise since these clocks were originally designed for offices and railways.

According to an online database, the lower section of the case was redesigned in 1922. This allows me to date the clock somewhere between 1922 and 1929. 77 weight-driven movements are very common. They were made sometime after 1915 and well into the 1940s. Perhaps the letter “K” under the 77A stamp on the movement is a clue as to exactly when it was manufactured.

It has a very attractive mahogany finish and it is a real conversation piece. There are probably more oak regulators than any other type of wood, so, mahogany, although not rare, is uncommon.

The suspension spring

A suspension spring is a thin band of steel called a “spring” by horologists by which the pendulum of a clock is suspended. It separates the pendulum rod and bob from the mounting post. Its purpose is to assist in controlling the rate of the pendulum swing.

The suspension spring looked tired when I first inspected the clock in 2018 and it was time for a replacement, sourced from my go-to Canadian supplier, Perrins.

What should have taken minutes stretched to an hour or more

Removing the movement prior to replacing the spring

Removing the movement consists of first removing the hands. A screw secures the minute hand while the hour hand is a friction fit and pulls straight out. The second hand also pulls off. Eight screws hold the face in place; 6 outside the chapter ring and two on either side of the second hand. Once the face is removed there is a wood crossbar, held by two larger screws in front of and either side of the movement, that must be removed.

Then the weight, which is hooked onto the pulley, is removed. There are 4 posts on the front of the movement, inboard on the bottom and above the plate screws on the top. They do not come out entirely but once unscrewed, the movement is released from an iron mounting bracket.

Next, the pendulum/rod which is hooked onto the suspension spring on the bracket is lifted out and put aside.

bracket for Seth Thomas #2 — The movement is mounted on a heavy cast iron bracket

Replacing the suspension spring

Once the bracket was exposed I thought it would be a simple matter of swapping out the old suspension spring for the new one. If it was not original, it is, nevertheless, quite old and likely weak with age. It probably can be done in place but it is much easier simply removing the cast iron mounting bracket which is held in place by 4 wood screws.

Seth Thomas #2 suspension spring, old on left, new on right

Laying the bracket out flat simplifies pushing out the pin holding the suspension spring.

I have come to learn that replacement parts from a supplier often must be made to fit and the suspension spring I bought is no exception. Using a pair of pliers, the pin was pushed out of the block. Once out I reamed the hole so that I did not have to struggle to install it. Except that the new pin did not fit the smaller hole in the post. So, rather than use the old pin a tapered brass pin replaced it.

Re-installation and testing

The bracket is then screwed back into the case with the suspension spring in place. The pendulum attaches to the end of the horizontal pins of the suspension spring but it is important to ensure that the end of the crutch wire, which has a 90-degree bend and hangs down from the movement goes through the opening in the pendulum.

The movement, face, and hands go back onto the clock. Push the hour hand in far enough, otherwise, it will rub against the minute hand and stop the clock.

There is very little space between the hour hand and the second’s hand. This is by design, and if you do not push the second’s hand in far enough you will know soon enough when interference stops the clock.

Level the clock case on the wall and observe the action of the pendulum.

What should have taken minutes stretched to over an hour. Now that the new suspension spring is in place, I have had a chance to look over the movement and it will be scheduled for a full servicing in the next month or so.

In the meantime, the clock is running well; there is slightly more amplitude in the pendulum swing than previously and it is keeping excellent time.

March 19, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #29 – A bob for a Pequegnat wall clock

DBs friend’s clock is similar to this one, an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon (2nd edition)

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

DB wrtes,

“Good morning, I stumbled across your site this morning while looking around for parts for what I think is a Pequegnat Brandon. It belongs to a friend and is missing the pendulum bob and key, but she thinks it works otherwise. I found parts that seem to be appropriate, but I’d like to find originals (or close to it) if I could.

Any advice?”

My reply,

Hi DB,

Thanks for your email. There is no known source for original Pequegnat parts although you might get lucky on eBay when clocks are parted out. It must be as close to 4.3 oz. or 125 grams, 62mm or 2.5 inches as possible, and it must be adjustable. I don’t see anything at Perrins, a Canadian supplier and the closest I could find is this one at Timesavers in the US. This one at Ronell looks to be the same but cheaper.

https://www.ronellclock.com/Adjustable-Pendulum-225-Bob-PM-63.htm?categoryId=-1

Ron

DB reply,

“Wow Ron, that’s very helpful, thank you very much.”

February 2, 2021

Anniversary clock repair – a replacement suspension spring

Let me start by saying that opinions on torsion clocks are divided—some people have great success with them, while others absolutely loathe them. Despite their seemingly simple design, they can cause endless frustration, which is why many clock repairers tend to avoid them. Fortunately, I seem to be one of the lucky ones.

Kundo standard size 400 day clock — _The _{Kundo Standard size 400-day clock wound once per year}

I gifted this clock to my daughter three years ago. She chose it for its intriguing visible movement and the convenience of running an entire year without winding. Recently, she moved across the country, and during the relocation, the clock “broke.” “Can you fix it, Dad?” she asked. “Leave it with me,” I replied.

400-day clocks, also known as torsion clocks, have been around for over a century. They were first produced in limited numbers in the mid-1890s, but their popularity surged after 1900. Between then and the 1980s, thousands were manufactured, becoming a favorite choice for wedding and retirement gifts—hence the nickname “anniversary clock.”

The Kundo model featured here dates back to the late 1950s or 1960s, during the height of production. However, with the advent of quartz clocks, mechanical versions quickly fell out of favor.

Kundo is a well-known name in the world of anniversary clocks. The name is a combination of Kieninger and Obergfell, a highly respected German company. Today, the company continues as Kieninger, operating as a subsidiary of Howard Miller USA.

Dial face Kundo Clock — _{Dial face, Kundo Clock}

Servicing a 400-day Clock

To service a 400-day clock, I highly recommend using the Horolovar 400-Day Repair Guide as a reference. Can you repair a 400-day clock without it? Yes, but the Horolovar guide eliminates almost all the guesswork.

This particular 400-day clock is a Kundo Standard 53, which requires a .0032″ (0.081mm) Horolovar spring. If you don’t have the time or tools to assemble the suspension units yourself, Horolovar (or most clock suppliers) offers fully assembled units. However, these come at a significantly higher cost.

Section 10 of the Horolovar guide includes templates for various clocks. These templates provide precise patterns for positioning the fork and attaching the upper and lower blocks to the suspension wire, ensuring proper assembly.

suspension spring installed on a Kern — _{The suspension spring assembly includes the top and bottom block plus the fork}

The screws on the suspension assembly are very small, so using a high-quality precision screwdriver is essential to avoid damaging them. The suspension spring is longer than needed and will require trimming to fit. Once the spring is securely attached to the fork and blocks, it’s ready to be reinstalled onto the movement.

The suspension spring assembly hooks onto the top cock and bottom weights or balls. A threaded thumbscrew on the top base slips into the top block. The bottom block has two pins to which the pendulum hangs. Next are the back spring cover and the locking guard.

Torsion clocks have pendulum locking systems that must be engaged even when the clock is moved just a few feet. Often, the result of an unlocked clock is a broken suspension spring. The locking guard on this clock is an earlier design and looks pretty flimsy in my view but it should work.

Once the spring assembly is installed on the movement it is time to test the beat. The beat should be 8 beats per minute and there should be ample overswing in both directions. A 270-degree rotation is healthy enough.

What makes the 400-day anniversary clock a great addition to a collection?

They are:

Relatively inexpensive to buy, although some models like Schatz and Gustav Becker are more sought-after and therefore more expensive.
Very quiet in operation.
Easy to disassemble, clean, and reassemble due to having few parts.
Slow runners, meaning wear is rarely an issue.
A fantastic conversation piece.
Long runners, with some lasting 400 days or more on a single wind.

What makes them less ideal:

Notoriously inaccurate timekeepers.
Can be frustrating to fine-tune at times.

Since I had previously serviced this clock, I was able to loosen the tiny screws on the blocks and fork with ease. Sometimes they can be tight and difficult to remove, but on this occasion, everything went smoothly. As of this writing, the clock has been running well for several weeks.

While it’s currently running slightly fast, small adjustments to the regulating dial will slow it down. However, there’s a limit to how much you can adjust, and it’s not a clock I would rely on for precise timekeeping.

December 7, 2020

Daylight Savings Time ends – time to set your clocks behind one hour

Let’s get rid of DST. It is anachronistic, a dumb nuisance and there is no place for it in our modern world. Today, of the 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries utilize Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe some form of daylight saving.

Circa 1890: Sir Sandford Fleming ( 1827 – 1915 ), **Canadian** engineer responsible for the Inter-Colonial Railway and the Canadian Pacific Railway, as well as devising an internationally accepted scheme for standard time. (Photo by Hulton Archive/Getty Images)

For the present, we, in those 70 countries, have to live with it.

So, set your clocks back one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.

Top showing face and crown detail — Set your clocks

Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. In Canada, we have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

There has been a push to scrap the time-switch in Canada. It is stupid, needless, and senseless. Are you listening Nova Scotia government?

October 31, 2020

Horolovar guide and how to determine the correct suspension spring for a 400-day clock

A 400-day clock, also known as a torsion clock, is a type of mechanical clock designed to run for about a year (400 days) on a single winding. It features a unique suspension system, where a rotating pendulum or torsion spring controls the movement. The clock’s long-running time is achieved through a very slow, consistent release of energy from the mainspring, and the mechanism is typically enclosed in a glass dome for display. Though not particularly accurate, they are fascinating to watch.

Years ago, my daughter gave me a Horolovar guide as a Christmas gift. Any horologist who works on many 400-day clocks will agree that the Horolovar guide is an indispensable manual when working with 400-day clocks.

It’s not a manual you’ll reach for often, but when working on 400-day clocks—often called anniversary clocks—it becomes absolutely essential.

The guide was last published in June 1991, and I believe little has changed since then. However, while writing this, I did some research and discovered that Haller Uhrenfabrik GmbH still produces mechanical anniversary clocks. Haller Uhrenfabrik GmbH is a German clock manufacturer based in Simonswald in the Black Forest, known especially for anniversary clocks, table clocks, and decorative mechanical timepieces. Founded in 1874, it combines traditional clockmaking.

Using the Manual

My daughter was in the midst of moving across the country when she unknowingly overlooked the locking mechanism on the 400-day clock she had received as a gift a few years ago. Upon unpacking it, she found that the suspension spring had snapped. While a snapped suspension spring can’t be reused, it can be easily replaced.

400-day clocks require very specific suspension springs, ones specially designed for each of the many dozens of manufacturers in the past 100 years. Install a suspension spring with an incorrect thickness and length, and you are asking for trouble. The correct spring for the make and model of the clock will ensure a smooth-running anniversary clock that will operate for many years.

On the positive side, these clocks run so slowly at 8 beats per minute that it is rare to have worn pivots and bushing holes.

Back to the clock in question. It is a Kundo anniversary clock made in the 1950s. According to the Horolovar guide, it is model 1371. Model 1371 tells me that the thickness of the suspension spring is .081 mm or .0032″. I’ve worked on similar models before and had some leftover Horolovar suspension springs of that size.

_{Kundo 400-day clock, made in West Germany}

This is essentially a one-hour job. There are two blocks, one at the top and one at the bottom. Carefully unscrew the blocks, ensuring the spring doesn’t become bent during the process (the small screws can be tricky to loosen). Once the blocks are removed, insert the suspension spring and tighten the screws. After securing the blocks, the manual will indicate where to attach the suspension fork.

Install the assembly onto the clock by attaching the top block with a screw that threads into the mounting hole, and hooking the bottom block onto the pendulum—but your work is not yet finished.

Now comes adjusting the beat and regulating the clock. There is a bracket above the suspension spring assembly that can be turned slightly (it is a friction fit) in either direction to correct the beat. I set the beat by ear and eye. There is a beat setting tool that can be purchased from a clock supplier if you plan to work on a lot of these clocks. In any event, a beat amplifier is an absolute must.

Most 400-day clocks run at 8 beats per minute. Mine runs slightly faster at 9 beats per minute, but this can be adjusted using the dial-type speed regulator at the top of the four weights. While a clock running a bit fast might seem negligible, over the course of a year, it can accumulate into a significant difference of minutes or even hours. As anyone familiar with these clocks will attest, they are not known for their precision in keeping time.

Can you install a new suspension spring without the Horolovar guide? Yes, but you’ll need to research the correct suspension spring thickness for that specific model and use the old assembly as a template.

In the end, 400-day clocks are deceptively simple machines that demand careful attention to detail. Replacing a suspension spring may only take an hour, but selecting the correct one, installing it properly, and setting the beat requires patience and a bit of experience. The Horolovar guide brings all of this together, turning what could be trial and error into a straightforward process. It may not be a book you use often, but when you need it, there’s really no substitute.

Anniversary clock repair – a replacement suspension spring

Kundo 400 day clock and why I love anniversary clocks | Part I

Kundo 400 day clock and why I love anniversary clocks – Part II

October 1, 2020

Ansonia Drop Extra does not run and a rusty mainspring is the culprit

Some time ago I wrote an article on an interesting acquisition, an Ansonia Extra Drop, a true barn find.

This Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock was manufactured in the early 1880s by what was then known as the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company.

It was in pretty rough shape when I bought it and the only significant part missing is the brass dial bezel and a number of minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door (which I made later on).

I was challenged by the whole prospect of putting the many pieces back together and giving what most would consider a throw-away movement, a second chance.

Siezed time-only movement — A sad-looking and seized time-only movement

Here is the movement when I found it. What a sight! I thought if I stripped away all the rust and dirt something of value would be salvageable. How many of you would simply toss it out?

After disassembly, scrubbing, cleaning, and one new escape wheel bushing here is the final result.

Cleaned up time only movement — Cleaned and serviced time only movement

First servicing

The fact that the spring was unwound on the movement when I received it tells me two things. One, the chance that it is “set” is reduced and secondly, having an open coil means more surface rust on the outer part of the spring.

I did my best to remove most of the rust on the mainspring and it went back in the movement. A short while later I discovered that the clock would only run if I wound it about halfway. Otherwise, if wound tight it would not run at all. The surface rust was evidently causing it to stop.

Some clockmakers who after observing any rust on a mainspring would immediately toss it out and argue that the spring is weaker because of the presence of surface rust. In this case, the mainspring is unsightly but has no cracks and has plenty of power.

Other repairers apply a liquid or gel, black tea, or even use electrolytic rust removal to extricate the rust. I know I risk igniting a debate about mainspring replacement and if I were in the business of clock repair, I would certainly toss out the mainspring and pass the cost on to the customer. However, I am hesitant to spend money on a new mainspring for what is essentially a $5.00 barn-find clock and my challenge was to spend as little money as possible on this clock.

During the initial servicing, I managed to get rid of most of the mainspring rust.

Second servicing

Still some problems. After several months I took it apart again, ran the parts through my new ultrasonic cleaner which I did not have at the time of the first servicing. I placed the mainspring in as well. Scotch Brite abrasive pad and WD40 combined are excellent for cleaning a mainspring and I was able to effectively smooth out the rough and rusty outer sections of the mainspring. Again, I checked for cracks and suspicious imperfections and found none. After rubbing the abrasive pad over the mainspring several times I gave it a healthy coating of Keystone mainspring oil. A smoother, rust-free mainspring should function a lot better.

Rather than mount the movement on the test stand, I installed it back into its case but left the dial off so I could monitor it more closely. It runs very well and has run several full 8-day cycles.

Ansonia movement in case — Ansonia movement in its case

I realize that I have pushed the limit of this mainspring and the next step is a replacement but we’ll see what happens after the testing period.

Weeks later

The movement continues to run well and now it is time to put everything back together.

September 23, 2020

What defines a successful clock day?

What defines a successful clock day? When everything goes according to plan, I’d say.

I ordered a number of parts from a clock supplier that finally arrived recently. Among the supplies was a good quality pivot oiler, a mainspring for the time side of a mantel clock, a set of better quality broaches and movement parts for my English bell strike.

I have a number of oilers but they are cheap and dispense far too much oil. A high quaility German made oiler is the right choice.

The broaches are made by Grobet and they are of excellent quality. The inexpensive broaches that I bought when I began my journey into clock repair will be put aside.

Success #1

In the fall of 2019 I picked up a clock made by the Fleet Time Company a short-lived Montreal-based company that lasted 4 years before World War II.

The case had to be refinished but when I finally returned the movement to its case I discovered a broken time side mainspring. Some movements are designed such that the mainspring barrels can be removed without dis-assembly. I removed the barrel to take measurements for the replacement mainspring. Using needle-nosed pliers I pulled the mainspring out, measured the width, thickness, length and ordered one from my supplier. I had to put this project aside until the mainspring arrived.

Using my Ollie Baker spring winder I coiled the spring into a retention collar and inserted it into the spring barrel and once inside the barrel, it was capped and returned to the movement.

Broken time side mainspring, not reusable

It is finally nice to hear it chime.

Success #2

I recently serviced an Arthur Pequegnat Canuck time and strike kitchen clock. After installing 5 bushings and reassembling the movement I was not able to make the strike side run correctly. Today, I pulled the plates apart slightly to make an adjustment to re-locate the stop wheel.

That was enough to allow the movement to go into warning. The clock is happily ticking and striking.

Success #3

I recently serviced a Waterbury York time and strike parlour clock. The strike side did not work when I bought it. I took the movement apart, cleaned it, installed several bushings and installed two missing helper springs. The movement ran well on the test stand but not when I returned it to its case.

In the case with the dial attached and the clock stopped. Today, I discovered that the crutch, a later replacement, is rubbing against the back of the dial, but just to be sure, I removed the dial and the clock ran without a problem. The solution; push the crutch loop further back into the movement.

Thoughts

These might seems like small victories but I’ll take them when they come. In the clock world some days are filled with challenges and frustrations but there are days like today where everything seems to go perfectly and that makes up for everything.

July 30, 2020

The schoolhouse clock – how it got its name

Older readers growing up in the rural areas of Canada and American have fond memories of the one-room schoolhouse clock located in the front or rear of the classroom. Just how did the schoolhouse clock get its name?

As the teacher instructed the students to work quietly on their own students would look up furtively at the clock anticipating the next recess. Students learned about time, how it regimented the day, how it seemed to move slowly and yet so quickly. Can you imagine the privileged child selected to wind the clock once per week.

Killarney, Ireland pub. The drop fusee wall clock is to the right

With a swinging pendulum visible from a distance, the clock can easily be seen running. The open-door bottom access sash allowed for restarting and adjusting the rate. The vast majority were American clocks though Canada produced its fair share of schoolhouse clocks. Time-only movements were very popular because they had fewer moving parts, noiseless except for the ticking sound, were simpler to maintain and would run well for years even if very worn.

The schoolhouse clock came to be known as a particular style of clock found in school settings. If a particular style was ordered by a school authority manufacturers might have informally described them as clocks for schools or “school clocks”. In any event, the term, “schoolhouse clock” has become part of the lexicon of the clock collector.

Today, the distinctive schoolhouse clock is known as a drop octagon by clock collectors.

Most schoolhouse clocks are 8-day running, constructed of oak, have a brass dial bezel, bottom glazed access sash, 9 or 12-inch dial with the majority being time-only. A time-only clock provides less distraction in the classroom environment than those clocks making a striking sound.

None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them. They are either described as a “drop octagon” or have a specific model name

In some clock circles it is said that schoolhouse clocks are a derivative of the English drop dial fusee clock such as the one seen in an Irish pub in Killarney (above photo).

None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them. They are either described as a “drop octagon” or have a specific model name.

Here are a few schoolhouse clocks from my collection. Enjoy!

Sessions Drop Octagon from a school in Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada)

Gilbert Admiral with 31-day calendar function, Colchester County, Nova Scotia

Ansonia clock project is complete — Ansonia schoolhouse clock, Berwick, Nova Scotia

“Special edition” clocks inspired by the classic schoolhouse wall clock are still sold today though you will find a quartz movement inside

Brandon II by Arthur Pequegnat, Great Village, Nova Scotia

Waterbury short drop wall clock, Halifax, Nova Scotia

Trio of clocks — A trio of clocks representing 3 time zones, From the left, a Waterbury, New Haven and Sessions

“Special edition” clocks inspired by the classic schoolhouse wall clock are still sold today though you will find a quartz movement inside.

The classroom was not only place for the schoolhouse clock. Many found their way into homes across Canada and the US. My grandparents had a Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock in their kitchen that I remember well as a young boy (the preview clock for this post).

Schoolhouse clocks evoke fond memories for the older generation today and fortunately many have been preserved for generations to come.

June 3, 2020

Day light savings time – time to see it end

When people living in the Yukon Territory, Canada switch their clocks forward to Daylight Saving Time Sunday March 8th, it will be for the last time. The government announced March 4th, that the territory will keep the time change permanent, after hearing an overwhelming majority of residents said they would rather remain an hour ahead than switch back in November.

Continue reading “Day light savings time – time to see it end” →

March 7, 2020

Are clocks temperamental? Is my one-weight Vienna Regulator moody?

Every now and then a clock is temperamental. I am not talking about the signs of wear that will certainly stop a clock but occasionally it is serviced, everything looks good but it is downright cantankerous. Anyone who has 400-day anniversary clocks knows exactly what I mean. Are clocks moody?

I relocated my unmarked Vienna Regulator one-weight (time-only) wall clock from one room to another and it decided to stop, just like that! A push of the pendulum and 10 minutes or two hours later, it stops. Normally when a clock is moved and level is confirmed (and the movement in beat) it happily ticks along but not this time. Is my Vienna Regulator moody?

It is one of my favourite clocks and I wanted it to run.

Some might call it a mini Vienna Regulator others might call it just small. It is 34 inches long 4.75 inches deep and 11 inches at the widest point and 8.5 inches at the waist. Time-only Vienna Regulators are my absolute favourite. They are simple and usually very reliable.

Continue reading “Are clocks temperamental? Is my one-weight Vienna Regulator moody?” →

January 8, 2020

Tick Talk Tuesday #23 – Forestville clock with electromechanical movement

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile. I offer my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

Not the most attractive clock in the world but a curiosity nonetheless. It is a mechanical clock but it is not wound in the conventional manner.

Continue reading “Tick Talk Tuesday #23 – Forestville clock with electromechanical movement” →

November 26, 2019

Gilbert Admiral schoolhouse clock – first look

When I bought this clock I was not sure what I had. There is no label, no makers name on the dial and an unsigned movement. I thought, Gilbert, Sessions?

This clock was hanging on the wall of a local antique shop with no price. When I inquired the shop owner said that he just picked it up and had not decided on a price but he knew the clock had issues. The hands did not turn otherwise he said the clock ran fine. Something wrong in the motion works, I thought. It could be a simple fix or something more challenging. The brass dial bezel was secured with Robertson screws which told me that the clock had been messed with.

My wife said go for it, it’s about time for another clock project. I offered a price and he agreed but I walked away wondering what surprises awaited me.

Continue reading “Gilbert Admiral schoolhouse clock – first look” →

October 20, 2019

George H Clark Ogee clock – movement and dial work

One cannot deny the classic style of an American Ogee clock. This one is in great shape and required almost nothing to get it to top form. 30-hour shelf clocks are abundant but not many cases survive years of wear and tear.

Dial removed to show the 30 hour movement

This George H. Clark 30-hour shelf clock is a very good example of Connecticut form. The case form is called an “og” or “ogee”, a mathematical term that describes the “S” curve shape in the primary molding that surrounds the door.

The clock has a brass time and strike, weight driven movement with an excellent original printed paper label on the interior reading in part “Made and Sold at/46 Courtlandt St/New York…. George H. Clark”. It measures 28 x 17 x 4.5”. This rectangular shaped case is decorated with nicely grained mahogany veneers. The veneer has very little if any losses.

The dial face

The upper section of the door is fitted with clear glass. Through this one can view the painted wood dial. The wood dial tells me that it is an early pre-1850 clock. This dial is formatted with a Roman numeral time track.

It is always a challenge matching 100+-year-old paint but by combining white. brown and yellow acrylic paint I was able to approximate the original colour. Some Roman Numerals were touched up with black acrylic paint.

And after numerals and face given a matching paint; you can see the difference in the number 4

I also glued two small blocks under the left and right “L” pins to centre the dial correctly.

The door is open showing the gong coil and the pasted label in very good condition

The lower section features a beehive painted tablet. The tablet is a replacement but fairly close to what would have been there at the time.

Beehive design; not original but in keeping with the style

Observations regarding the movement

The movement looks like an early (unmarked) Waterbury, ca. 1860 type 2.411. Waterbury movements have “quarter-round” corners, while most other ogee movements tend to have the “tombstones” or plain rectangles. The movement could have been swapped but It is difficult to tell.

Everything except the movement points to a period between 1840-50. If the movement is a replacement it was likely an early replacement.

30-hour movements will run surprisingly well with horrible pivot wear. However, regarding repair, my view is this: I do not normally install new bushings in every single pivot hole on the movement. If a bushing hole is passable I will leave it as-is but if the hole is quite oblong I will install a new bushing to mitigate potential gear meshing issues in the future.

Addressing the movement

I will also ignore some past repairs. For example, in this particular movement I noticed 4 punch marks around the escape wheel bridge pivot hole. As most clock repairers know using a punch to close a pivot hole was an acceptable practice many years ago though it is not considered a good practice today. In this particular case, the pivot hole was in good shape and I decided to leave it as-is. After assessing the movement further, I installed one bushing on the second wheel front plate strike side (S2) and the second on the second wheel strike side rear plate (T2). Just two bushings. As to the three lantern pinions, they were in very good condition.

Reassembly was routine. The time side ran fine.

Adjusting the strike side was not easy and should have been a simple procedure. The problem was not only correctly positioning the warning pin on the fly but ensuring that the warning hook lever could actually meet the warning hook. The levers in this clock had been bent every which way making it a real challenge to find the correct angles. It did not strike correctly before servicing. Trial and error combined with colourful language certainly helped correct the strike.

The gong block and coil were also cleaned up. Tip; it helps to put the same screws back in the same holes. Seems trivial but it is a good practice. Not all screws are the same.

Little time was spent on this clock and I was fortunate to have an almost perfect case. The previous owner knew how to take care of the case but the movement neede work. When many of these clocks stopped they simply became decorations but I am sure that this one will run reliably for many more years to come.

April 10, 2019

Over-winding a clock is a myth

Over-winding a clock is a common myth.

The world of horology reveals an assortment of interesting expressions as well as the misuse of words and terms. For classic example; why do some refer to shelf clocks as Mantle clocks when a mantel is something you wear like a shawl or a cloak? Mantel, such as a shelf over a fireplace, is the correct term.

I want to focus on one very common expression. How many times have you the heard the expression, “it was running fine till I over-wound it”? I have heard it often enough on clock forum, Facebook sites and among acquaintances. It is an ubiquitous expression. Do not blame the last person winding the clock for they are not the cause of a so-called “over-wound” clock or one that stops mysteriously.

Over tightening

While it may be technically accurate that a mainspring can become damaged by repeated over-tightening that is, winding the spring until it is tight, and then continuing to tighten it more just to be on the safe side, there is another reason why this occurs.

Take a spring barrel like the one in the following photo.

Barrel showing a very wide gap — Barrel and winding arbour

When the spring is wound it is coiled tightly around the winding arbour. The other end of the spring has a small hole which is hooked over a small stud, which is riveted into the interior wall of the barrel.

The hole allows the spring to be hooked to the inside of the barrel

The hole in the spring can become fatigued because of years of repeated “over-tightening”, and/or the stamped hook or riveted stud breaks free. “Over-winding” is not the reason.

A dirty movement

American open mainspring clocks “appear” to be “over-wound” because of a buildup of old oil, rust and dirt in the mainspring coil which causes the coil to stick and the spring to seize.

Clocks which might appear to be “over-wound” and non-working can be persuaded to run again by letting down the mainspring completely with a let-down tool, liberally applying mainspring oil and rewinding. This procedure is by no means a substitute for a good cleaning and it does not address other issues that may be causing the clock to stop but it is one step in troubleshooting your clock movement.

It is only when the movement is disassembled and the mainspring is removed from the arbour that you can examine the condition of the mainspring and decide whether to keep it or replace it. Dirt and old oil can be easily cleaned up. Light rust on a mainspring can be removed with emery paper or steel wool; heavy rust and the mainspring should be replaced. Inspect the spring for cracks or breaks. In many situations the mainspring can be saved.

In some cases the click can let go because the rivet securing the click becomes fatigued. For example, Sessions clocks have weak clicks and rivets. Inspection and remediation of a bad click is a typical procedure when servicing a Sessions clock.

Do not expect a newly acquired clock to have been serviced recently or at all unless the seller can prove it. Moreover, servicing a mechanical clock on a regular basis is an important part of ownership.

“Over-winding” is one of those terms that one hears quite often and is a very common myth.

March 22, 2019

Spring comes early this year but not by much! Adjust your clocks

The first day of spring is called the vernal equinox (sometimes also referred to as the spring equinox or March equinox) and it is almost always either March 20 or March 21 though it will fall on March 20 for the next two years in a row. The first day of the spring season is the day of the year when the Sun crosses the celestial equator moving northward.

Spring is often called the season of rebirth and renewal. It is also seen as the time of the year when we Canadians crawl out of winter hibernation and greet longer and warmer days with enthusiasm and renewed energy.

In the pursuit of horological interests what will Spring mean for this writer?

This weekend (March 2019) my wife and I are in Fredericton, New Brunswick. Part of our mini vacation is to check out antique shops and flea markets for interesting clocks.

Otherwise, at home I am putting the finishing touches on the servicing of an Ansonia Crystal Regulator and determining next steps for a recently acquired Gilbert tambour clock.

Gilbert tambour style mantel clock circa 1925

Clocks coming up on the bench are an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon for inspection and oiling, another Gilbert Mantel clock for servicing and case repairs and a Jauch wall clock that I am servicing at for a friend.

In June I am attending the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors national conference in Massachusetts (USA) where I hope to interact with like-minded individuals within the world of horology and perhaps learn new things. I am looking forward to it.

Time to get busy!

March 20, 2019

Spring ahead – Daylight Savings Time – set your clocks!

On March 10th Daylight Savings Time began at 3:00am in Canada. Over 100 years ago on July 1, 1908, the residents of Port Arthur, Ontario, today’s Thunder Bay, turned their clocks forward by 1 hour to start the world’s first DST period.

Spring ahead, Fall behind

In Canada we refer to it as Daylight Saving Time (DST); the British call it “British Summer Time” and “summertime” in other areas. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer while sacrificing normal sunrise times. Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. We have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock

There is a constant dispute about the benefits and drawbacks. Proponents say that it conserves energy and has a psychological benefit of extending the daylight hours. Opponents say that the energy arguments are inconclusive.

Regardless, people must remember to change their clocks. It is a time-consuming exercise, particularly for those owners of antique and vintage mechanical clocks that cannot be moved backward safely though obviously moving 1-hour forward is much simpler.

But why go through this nonsense; let’s just get rid of DST! I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts. My mechanical clocks will appreciate it and yours will too!

March 10, 2019

Sperry and Shaw 30 hour four column New York Style shelf clock – servicing the movement

I decided that it was time to service this attractive New York-styled Sperry and Shaw 30 hour time and strike, four column hour-strike clock. The case measures 25 1/2 inches in height by 14 inches in width, very close to the dimensions of a typical ogee clock. This clock is an estate auction buy.

Sperry and Shaw clock showing dial and lower tablet

The 4 free-standing turned columns drew my attention. It reflects the decorative period of the Empire style popular in the mid 1850s. While researching the NAWCC site I discovered that this clock was probably made between 1846 and 1847. The label, 98% of which is intact, and affixed to the backboard says 10 Courtlandt Street, the company headquarters during the aforementioned period. Sperry and Shaw were not clock-makers but business partners and were regarded as distributors and assemblers.

They sourced cases and movements, affixed their own stamp on the movement and placed their labels (sometimes over other makers labels) inside the case, a common practice at the time as clocks for the home and workplace both locally and abroad were in great demand.

The movement is Jerome-like and stamped Sperry and Shaw, New Jersey. The plates are thinner than a Jerome evidently a cost cutting measure.

The narrow brick-shaped weights (4 3/4 inches X 1 inch) fit neatly into channels on the left and right with little to spare. When I first contacted the seller, he was unsure if the weights were in the clock. He later contacted me to say that the clock indeed had its weights. Had it not come with the weights I would have passed on it because the narrow weights are the only type that will fit into the channels and they would be difficult to source.

Movement needs a good cleaning, old weight cords shown — The weight channels are either side of the movement

The case

The weight cords, though not original, were old and frayed. On the first night I raised the strike weight to the halfway point. Twenty minutes later I heard a loud BANG. When I heard the sound I immediately knew. The cord had snapped and the weight had dropped. Fortunately, there was no damage. I promptly replaced the cords.

I am not sure how I will proceed with the case. The veneer appears to be either mahogany, walnut or rosewood. There are small sections of veneer missing here and there but mostly on the corners, a common issue. It has a two-tone appearance though it is hard to tell if it is the result of aging or the original intent of the maker. There is grime on the darker surfaces and I must decide whether to leave as-is or take it down a little to see what’s there. Attending to the veneer issues on the corners should be a straightforward matter. The break in the right corner of the base is a crude repair and that will have to be redone.

The movement

The movement was disassembled and placed in my L&R ultrasonic cleaner with DEOX-007 solution (7 to 1 ratio) for 30 minutes. The ultrasonic did an terrific job and I am always impressed at how well it cleans lantern pinions. Once the parts were washed in warm water and dried it gave me an opportunity to visually check the movement for obvious issues such as broken or worn teeth, bent arbours and so on. All the parts were in good condition.

The movement had punch marks around every single pivot hole which caused me some concern. However, after pegging the pivot holes and polishing the pivots I re-assembled the movement to check pivot wear and found there were three or four pivots holes that were slightly enlarged but not so much that they had to be done immediately. So, no bushing work this time.

The movement was re-assembled and tested. Unfortunately, my movement stand is not set up for weight driven clocks so testing had to be in the clock case.

Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement tested in the case

I usually test the movement dry for an hour or so before oiling. Why waste clock oil if it must be taken apart again. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running smoothly I take the movement out of its case, oil the pivots and then run it for several days to regulate and to determine if there any minor issues that need to be addressed. Once I am satisfied, the dial and hands are re-attached. With the new weight cords and the movement fully serviced, I tested it for several days.

However, a week later I adjusted the time since it had stopped and the minute hand was disconnected and spinning freely. The main wheel was not communicating with the second wheel because the arbour washer was loose and the resulting wobble meant that the teeth did not engage properly. Out comes the movement to tighten the washer. Now, all is well.

Back to the case. I am still debating what I should do but I may give it a light refresh.

January 15, 2019

Seth Thomas Alarm Clock – big and ugly but I like it

My wife loves those little craft shops that seem to pop up everywhere. While shopping for Christmas presents in Truro, Nova Scotia, she spotted an attractive Seth Thomas balloon alarm clock. It is not working, said the vendor but my wife knew that her clock loving husband would likely get it running in no time.

Art Nouveau styled Seth Thomas alarm clock

These clocks are not uncommon on online auction sites

Made around 1900, the clock features a metal case with openwork, scrolling details, a rectangular base with a central shell design. The dial is marked “Seth Thomas” to the center and “Manufactured in the United States of America” underneath the six. An alarm bell is housed in the base and yes, it is very loud. The clock measures 7.25″ W x 9.0″ H x 3.5″ D.

Not rare but interesting

These clocks are not uncommon on online auction sites. Though some describe the alarm clock case as cast iron or copper, it appears to be either plated cast brass or more likely spelter. Some would describe the style as Art Nouveau. Art Nouveau is an international style of art, especially the more decorative arts that were most popular between 1890 and 1910.

The dial features Roman numerals, a working inset sixty-second dial at the twelve, a twelve-hour alarm dial at the six and a cast metal bezel with a beaded pattern. The clock features two winding keys on the reverse (though one key is missing as well as one set screw) and is marked “Made in U.S. America.”

I took off the back cover, put it aside and cleaned it. The 30-hour movement with alarm was quite dirty, as expected. A thorough dismantling and cleaning is in order but for now, let’s see if it works.

Let’s see if it runs

Using Keystone clock oil I applied oil to the pivots and those I could reach in the front without taking the movement out of the case. New oil introduced to old oil will eventually mix and cause an abrasive sludge that will hasten wear but I wanted to determine if the movement was capable of running. After the oiling, I gave the escapement a gentle push and the clock came to life and continued to run its 1-day cycle. The alarm feature works but I am missing the windup key and the time key does not fit properly. I am also missing the hands’ adjustment set key, so, a pair of pliers was used to set the time.

The clock looks great

I cleaned the case with a mild soap avoiding hard rubbing for fear of taking off the plating. The clock looks great and has a pleasant patina.

My wife paid $15 for the clock. Online auction and for-sale sites reveal realized prices all over the map, from $30 to $410. I am pleased that it is a working clock at a very reasonable price and a nice addition it to my modest alarm clock collection.

December 29, 2018

Making a drop door for an Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock

Regular viewers may recall this post in September 2018. Added are new photos and additional information on this project.

I wrote about this Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock barn find in a previous article. It has been a test bed for case restoration techniques I have never attempted before.

A barn find clock in pieces (next photo) is a challenge for anyone. It was missing some parts and as I began to take an inventory of what I required to get this clock running after so many years I discovered that I had enough to make something of it and whatever was missing could be easily sourced. Those key parts? Not so simple, as I will explain later

Ansonia Extra Drop barn find, drop access door is missing

There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.

This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2-inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door which I was missing, opens downwards. Other Drop Extra variations have access doors open to the side. Mine will also open downwards.

Drop door in open position — Drop door from another clock in open position

I assembled all the pieces I had from the barn find. Missing were small trim pieces, the pendulum bob and leader, the clock hands and verge. But two key pieces are required, the brass dial bezel and the drop door. During the course of making inquiries concerning the missing pieces, the movement was serviced and installed in the case. It is running reliably and maintains a full 8-day cycle.

Regarding the drop door. This is obviously not a piece I could buy from a clock supplier. The first step was to take the measurements and construct the frame. I cut pine wood from an old Ogee donor clock. I began with a door frame. The frame is about 7 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches high leaving a snug fit between the top and side opening.

Using my table saw I cut the appropriate lengths, assembled the frame and then glued the ends together (next photo). I put a weight on the frame for 24 hours to prevent warping. Pine moulding sits atop the frame to accommodate the rosewood veneer.

Missing drop access door — Test fitting the door frame

I cut a single 1 inch piece of doweling with a 3/8 inch crown. The result? Too wide and the crown was too high. The wide trim and high crown meant that the hinges would not function properly and it looked odd.

Mitered corners — First attempt; the trim is too wide and too high

I wanted to duplicate the one in the next photo.

Ansonia door from another clock — Ansonia door from a similar clock in closed position and also showing a narrow molding

I discarded the moulding, kept the sub-frame and made smaller pieces which looked quite a lot better.

I cut a section from 1 1/4 inch doweling resulting in a 3/16 inch crown. My stock Rosewood veneer is only 6 inches wide which I then cut into strips. I veneered the entire 26 inch piece using medium strength pearl hide glue. I used foam blocks to press the veneer into the moulding clamping at each end of the section.

First part of a 26 inch strip after gluing and clamping

Veneering the moulding is just about complete — Veneering is just about complete

Clamping each section — Clamping in stages using sponge blocks; the wood strip allows equal pressure along each section

The veneer was applied in stages since I had only two clamps that were appropriate for this project. After applying the first strip I learned that wetting the veneer on the top side allowed it to take the shape of the moulding. I then cut the strip into 4 mitered sections, glued the sections onto the frame and applied 2 coats of Brazilian Rosewood stain. At first I was reluctant to stain the veneer but using a test piece and applying two coats of shellac I discovered that the shade was too light in comparison to the veneer on the clock case.

Test fitting the 4 pieces — Test fitting the 4 sections, prior to gluing

Glued (Hide Glue) and weight placed on moulding and frame — Glued (Hide Glue); weight placed on the moulding and frame

Two 1/2 inch hinges were used plus a knob salvaged from an Ogee donor clock.

Knob and hinges — Knob and 3/4 inch hinges

The 3/4 inch hinges allow the door to drop down

It is certainly not perfect and there is much I could improve upon in the next project. I have a door knob that will fit with some modifications (see above) but that is a small project for another day. A glass decal would also be a nice addition.

Beyond this I can go no further with this project. The brass bezel still alludes me though I might have a lead on one from an antique shop owner in Connecticut (USA).

This Ansonia Extra Drop is an attractive but incomplete clock with a interesting story and a test-bed for case restoration.

December 12, 2018

Seth Thomas Regulator #2 wall clock

During my travels through Ontario, I acquired a Seth Thomas Regulator #2, one of my newest additions. I discovered this clock in Bloomfield, a quaint village just minutes from Picton, a major hub in Prince Edward County renowned for its many wineries.

I first spotted the clock during a summer visit to the local antique shop and deliberated over the purchase for quite some time before finally deciding to take the plunge in the fall. These clocks are a rare find, and with the price being right and the clock in excellent condition, it felt like an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.

Perhaps best known as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was a fixture in many railway stations across the country during the last century—a testament to its accuracy and dependability. Robust, precise, well-engineered, and reliable, this timepiece was manufactured by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, an impressive production run of 90 years. Few clocks can boast such longevity. It is an iconic American clock, and every serious clock collector aspires to own one.

A classic style, the #2 changed very little over the years. However, certain design characteristics help date the clock. The following identification guide describes dial and case characteristics that will aid in identifying the approximate year the clock was made.

_{Click here for the larger guide; http://www.clockguy.com}

The most distinctive visible characteristic is the design of the base.

Aside from the distinctive base, all but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear with “T” hands.

The chart also lists the limited run reissue in 1976. Most Seth Thomas aficionados would agree that while the reissue is a handsome and well-made clock that is a testament to the original it is not in the same realm as an authentic Regulator #2 and the prices for these versions reflect accordingly. However, those who have the reissue seem to be pleased with their acquisition.

ccording to the chart, my clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numerals with spade hands, and the bow-tie connecting the wooden dial bezel to the drop is a single piece (earlier versions featured a three-piece bow-tie). The clock includes a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon; however, it is not a true second hand, as it runs off the escapement and takes 80 beats to complete a “minute.”

Measuring 36 ½ inches in height, the clock is veneered in mahogany. The movement is stamped with “77A” in the bottom right corner, with the letter “K” underneath, but it bears no other markings. While some versions of the 77 movement have lantern pinions, this one is equipped with cut pinions.

Are there issues with this clock? Certainly, it is over 90 years old! There is minor loss on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster and paint splatter on the top of the case not visible from the front. Is it really so hard removing a clock when painting a room!

Is it Perfect?

I brought this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car. Removing the pendulum for transport is not a particularly simple process but if you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator this one is no different. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement.

Both the weight and the pendulum must be removed for transport. There is many a story of broken glass when weight and pendulum are free to move around inside the case. To remove the weight, simply unhook it from the cable wheel.

_{There are minor issues with the dial-face}

To remove the pendulum the movement must be taken out. First, the hands are taken off. In this version, the minute hand is held in place with a nut. Older ones have a pin. There are 8 small screws that hold the dial in place. Once the dial is removed, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail are removed. Four cylindrical column posts hold the movement in place. Unscrew these beginning with the bottom two and lift the movement out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.

The trapezoid 77A movement with maintaining power in this clock looks clean. There is evidence of having been worked on in the past as there are 4 punch marks around the winding arbour to close the hole; a common practice in the past to close a pivot hole. Otherwise, the movement looks very good.

Getting the clock to run reliably was a challenge and it took a week or so to sort it out. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop.

Following a process of elimination, I removed the movement, inspected it for wear, found very little, oiled the pivots, and returned the movement to the case. I installed the dial, then the hands. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop. I removed the hands and dial; left the dial off but reinstalled the hands. Still, it would run only a few minutes. I then took the dial and hands off. I ran the movement for four days to eliminate any underlying issues and to convince myself that the problem lay in the positioning of the hands. The problem was definitely with the positioning of the hands.

On day five, I put the dial back on, then the second hand ensuring that there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the face. Next, I put the hour hand on the pipe and pressed it in far enough to clear both the second hand and the minute hand. I attached the minute hand, inspected it for sufficient clearance, and screwed it in place. I started the clock.

Success at last! Regulating the clock is fairly simple and is achieved by turning the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and in beat to function properly.

I used Murphy’s Soap to clean the grease and grime from the case. I chose to leave the paint splatter intact, as it adds a bit of character to the clock. Additionally, I polished the brass weight and pendulum bob to restore their shine.

This clock boasts a striking appearance and a rich, illustrious history, making it a perfect addition to the front entrance of our home. Unfortunately, its journey over the past 90+ years remains a mystery.

The question of whether it qualifies as a “true regulator” is a debate for another time.

December 8, 2018

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton wall clock

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton time-only wall clock

I discovered this Arthur Pequegnat Moncton in an antique store in Bloomfield, Ontario. I had my eye on it during a visit to the antique shop this past summer (2018), thought about it before taking the plunge later in the fall to buy it. These clocks do not come up very often and the price was right.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 until the company closed its doors in 1941. The clock firm was originally founded in 1903 by Saas & Ford but was purchased by Arthur Pequegnat the following year.

Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Arthur Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada. However, the use of city names began to decline in the late 1920s when models such as the Eclipse and Swan were introduced. Arthur Pequegnat also showed his patriotism to the Royal family and to Canada and therefore named a number of models, the Monarch, the King Edward, the Maple Leaf, the Dominion, the Canadian Time and so on.

Pendulum, beat plate & centre cut rounded bottom

Pequegnat made mantel, parlour clocks, as well as Mission, kitchen, gingerbread, tambour, wall, and floor models (hall clocks). In most households of the period, a clock was a decorative status symbol, not just a timepiece, and was displayed in a prominent place in the home—usually the parlour.

Prices increased over the period the Pequegnats were in business but ranged from four dollars for the Midget to seven dollars for the simple round Toronto model, to $112 for the Alberta floor model in mahogany. The wide variety of designs and relatively low prices appealed to many Canadians. Today, the appeal of these timepieces remains as Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors.

This, the Moncton, is the seventh Arthur Pequegnat clock in my collection. This clock is named after a city in the province of New Brunswick (Canada). It is only fitting that Pequegnat supplied clocks to the railway as Moncton was once a rail hub for the Canadian National Railway.

This clock is in good condition overall. It has a 12 inch Arabic dial with simple, bold numbers. The pierced spade hands are attractive and are a feature on many Pequegnat wall clocks. It has a fumed quarter-sawn oak case, is 35 inches high with a hinged 16 inch oak bezel door that swings to the right to reveal the dial. The drop door is 14 ½ inches high by 10 ¾ inches wide and also swings to the right. The clock is 5 inches deep with wall stabilizers on either side of the case. The pendulum bob is brass over iron with an oak pendulum rod. The dial glass appears to be original and has the “waviness” you would expect with glass that is over 80 years old.

Although the lower glass has the same waviness it appears to have been changed out early in the clocks life as the retaining rails look to be replacements. Unfortunately, it is missing the label. Other minor issues are a small scratch on the dial face that is visible when the light is right and a screw hole on the back panel just below the beat plate to secure the clock to the wall. Evidently the stabilizers were not used.

This clock was made after 1916. Those made prior to that date were inscribed “Berlin” (Ontario) on the dial. On 1 January 1917, anti-German sentiments in Canada during the First World War spurred residents of Berlin, Ontario to change the city’s name to Kitchener. This is the only definitive way of dating a Pequegnat clock so, this clock would be between 80 and 100 years old. The Moncton wall clock was manufactured almost as long as the company was in existence.

The Moncton is a 15-day time-only clock with two winding arbours on the dial face. This is achieved by means of two mainsprings both of which are wound at the beginning of the running cycle releasing their power together. Two other wall clocks, the Regina and the King Edward (variant) were also available with a 15-day double spring movement. However, unlike most spring driven clocks that have recoil escapements this movement has a Graham deadbeat escapement which contributes to its accuracy. The seconds hand is not a true second hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. As a testament to its accuracy and dependability many of these clocks were ordered as train station clocks across Canada.

Two winding arbours for double spring time-only movement

The “Moncton” came in two basic styles. One was made for Canadian National Railways and was five centimeters (two inches) shorter than the regular model. Some such as this one, were fitted with a seconds hand on a separate dial above the main hands. This feature is also found on the Regulator I which was Pequegnat’s most accurate model. The 1st Issue was 33 1/4 inches high by 15 1/2 inches wide with the triangular bottom. The 2nd issue of the clock has a height of 33 1/4 inches and a width of 16 inches with a centre cut rounded bottom. The 2nd issue clock is also found with cases that measure 35 inches in height such as this one.

The “Moncton” was first featured in the 1913 catalogue and the again in the 1918, 1920 to 1925 Wall Clock catalogues and Pequegnat’s final catalogue put out in 1928.

The Moncton closely resembles the Seth Thomas #2 in size and shape down to the seconds hand, 80BPM and beat plate but unlike the #2, the Moncton is spring driven. The Moncton was an alternative to the #2 which was a well made American regulator but costlier and with a shorter running cycle.

The seller tells me that the clock came from the north of Toronto (Ontario) and apologized for not knowing more about its history. He has had it for about 1 ½ years.

I removed the dial to inspect the movement. As expected it is large and heavy with solid plates mounted to an iron frame. It is not difficult to see that it was designed to be rugged and dependable. I did not check the back plate but judging from what I see on the front plate there appears to be little wear. The first wheel on the right side is the only one that has a newer bushing. Given its condition it was well cared for and did not have a hard life.

This clock has been on my wish list for some time.”Monctons” are up for sale from time to time, but they are getting harder to find. I have seen examples come and go but this one is in great shape and the time was right to add it to my collection.

November 30, 2018

Sessions Drop Octagon – a pint-sized schoolhouse clock

A working clock for $25? You can’t go wrong.

Found this little schoolhouse clock not 10 minutes from where I live. It is a Sessions Drop Octagon. It was manufactured in Forestville Conn. USA in the early 1920s and spent most of it’s life hung in a one-room schoolhouse near Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada). The seller said that he had taken it out of the schoolhouse when it was decommissioned in the 1970s and it has been in storage ever since.

It is small, measuring 21 inches high by 13 1/2 inches wide and with a 7 inch Arabic dial.

“It’s not running” he said. “Fine” I said. I took it home and had it running within 10 minutes. Although it ran strongly it required a good cleaning. I took the movement out of its case, dis-assembled it, cleaned all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, polished the pivots, cleaned and oiled the mainspring, installed 2 bushings, reinstalled the movement, tested it and set about cleaning up the case.

After a Murphy’s Soap clean-up to the case I let it thoroughly dry then applied 2 coats of shellac to bring back the natural luster of the wood which was in otherwise good condition. The clock face had some foxing, which, in clock circles, means that some of the tin byproduct had leached through to the paper label and discoloured it. A little unsightly but I decided to live with it. I hung it up over my desk as one of a trio of time zone clocks to remind me of the time where my kids live.

Time zone clocks, Session clcok on right

The clock is a loud ticker but it runs well and should be reliable for years to come.

September 12, 2018

My antique clock stopped, what do I do?

An antique clock stopping unexpectedly can be frustrating, especially if it has been running smoothly for years. However, a stopped clock doesn’t always signal a major problem. In many cases, the issue can be resolved with a little troubleshooting and basic maintenance. Whether it’s a cherished family heirloom or a recent addition to your collection, understanding the possible reasons behind its stoppage can help you decide on the best course of action to bring it back to life.

Perhaps you’ve recently acquired a mechanical clock—whether inherited, gifted, purchased at an antique store, bought online, or one you’ve had for a while—and, for no clear reason, it has stopped working.

Categories of Clocks

There are four general categories of clock movements; quartz, electro-mechanical, electric, and mechanical. This post focuses on mechanical clocks, whether antique or vintage and if your mechanical clock has stopped, I may be able to help you get it working again.

Running Time

It may surprise some that mechanical clocks require regular winding. Eight-day clocks need to be wound once a week, while 30-hour clocks require daily winding. 31-day clocks only need winding once a month, and 400-day clocks, also known as anniversary clocks, are wound once a year. Additionally, many German and a small number of American clocks run for 14 days before needing a wind.

_{Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 14-day time-only clock}

Winding a Clock Movement

What does winding a clock actually mean? It means providing enough power to a mechanism that will allow it to run for its designed cycle.

For example for clocks with mainsprings, winding a mainspring implies turning the key until the clock winds no further. Time and strike clocks will have two winding arbours, chiming clocks generally have 3 winding arbours.

Clocks with weights have one, two, or three winding points. Absent the odd exception, a time-only clock will have one winding point, a time-and-strike clock will have two, and a chiming clock will have three. If there are no winding holes on the clock face, it is a weight-driven clock and the weights must be pulled up by hand.

In the case of clocks with mainsprings that provide the motive power for the time, strike, and chimes, wind each arbour until resistance is met and you cannot wind any further.

One key will fit all the arbours except the regulator arbour (on clocks that have this feature) which requires a smaller key. Clocks that have a regulator arbour originally came with a double-ended key; the smaller key is for the regulator.

Clocks generally wind clockwise but it is also common to find winding arbours that must be wound counterclockwise.

Over-winding

The idea of overwinding a clock is a myth. If a clock stops after being fully wound, it typically indicates that dirt, old oil, or grime on the mainspring has caused it to seize. Even if the mainspring, once unseized, has enough power, it still needs cleaning, which requires disassembling the movement and checking for other potential issues.

A clock in good working condition should complete its full cycle, whether that’s 30 hours, 8 days, 14 days, 31 days, or any other duration.

_{Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows). The arbour over the 6 requires a smaller key to regulate the clock}

Why Has My Clock Stopped

First and foremost, all clocks require motive power. Winding a clock stores potential energy in the mainspring, which is gradually released over a designed period of time. This energy is regulated by the escapement, a mechanism that controls the release of the energy in small, consistent increments, ensuring the clock keeps accurate time. Weights resting on the bottom of the baseboard will stop a clock and a completely unwound spring-driven clock will not run.

Is the clock in beat? Put your clock on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to its rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, tick….. tock or tock tick…… Put another way, there must be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will not run, or it will run for a short time and stop. A clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.

Is the clock level? There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. If it is a wall clock move the bottom section from side to side till you hear a steady beat. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.

Adjusting the crutch Adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring. Other mantel clocks require similar adjustment to the crutch and instructions may be provided on a label or a pamphlet that came with the clock. A clock with a balance wheel or lever-type escapement rather than a pendulum will operate on a non-level surface.

Have repairs been done recently? Unless you had a friend fix your clock most reputable clock-makers will offer a warranty, typically 6 months to a year. If your clock stops within that time frame, contact the clock-repairer who may offer a few suggestions in the form of adjustments, over the phone before taking it back to the shop. If it still does not work have that person take a look at the clock.

Do you have the correct pendulum? Other than the winding key, it seems to be the item that gets lost the most. If lost or misplaced, ensure you buy a pendulum that is correct for your clock. One too light may mean that it does not run at all, too heavy and the centre of gravity is lowered and the clock might run too slowly. Clock suppliers such as Perrin or Timesavers will have the correct pendulum for your clock.

pendulum bob with adjuster — _{Pendulum bob with an adjuster for a French time and strike}

Something is broken? If there is no resistance when turning the winding key, the mainspring has broken or a click has let go. If the mainspring winds but releases in your hand, the most common cause is a broken or worn click spring. This is a repair that requires removing the movement from its case, taking it apart, and replacing the worn or damaged part. If you are skilled with that kind of repair, go ahead and fix it, if not, a specialist is required.

A loud BANG when you turn the key indicates the mainspring has broken or let go. It may not be as simple as replacing the mainspring. If the mainspring breaks it might have taken out other parts with it such as pinions and gear cogs. This is called collateral damage. An inspection and a full servicing of the movement is the only solution. Occasionally a broken mainspring is the only problem but the broken spring must come out of the barrel. Some movement designs allow the barrel to be removed without disassembling the mechanism. Whether the barrel is removable or not, a correct mainspring must be sourced to replace it and installed in the barrel which is a job for an expert.

The mainspring inside the barrel may also have become unhooked. This could occur if the clock was wound backward or if the hooked end of the mainspring is split or broken. To address this, the clock will need to be disassembled, the spring barrel opened, and the cause of the unhooking identified. In some cases, a replacement mainspring may be necessary.

For time and strike clocks with open mainsprings, the break may be on one mainspring or both. The clock must be completely disassembled, mainsprings replaced, the movement inspected for other issues, reassembled, and tested.

_{Sessions click, brass spring, and ratchet}

Why does my weight-driven clock stop? Ensure that the weights are in their correct location. If it is a new acquisition of a grandfather clock the three weights have a specific location. Look underneath the weight shells for marks indicating their location “L”, left side, “C”, center and “R”, right side. If there are no markings, use a scale to determine the one that is the lightest weight and put that on the left side.

When bringing up the weights to the top of the clock be careful that they are not run past their stops. You should have a full view of the weights on a weight-driven clock once wound.

Antique Ogee clocks and other weight-driven shelf clocks often lack their original weights, as these have been lost or misplaced over time. Eight-day clocks typically have heavier 8 or 9 lb weights while 30-hour clocks have lighter 2 1/2 lb or 3 lb weights. Incorrect weights for these clocks will cause them to stop.

Is the weight cord or the brass cable binding in any way? The cord or cable should be just long enough to accommodate the weights. A cord or cable that is too long will bind while being wound and stop the clock.

_{Gustav Becker two-weight wall clock requires a winding crank}

Some clocks like weight-driven Vienna Regulators can be adjusted by a transverse regulating screw assembly where the crutch inserts into a slot in the pendulum. Turning a screw in one direction or the other will correct the beat.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, if you encounter a unique issue not addressed here, it’s advisable to consult a professional clock repairer or someone with expertise in mechanical clock repairs. Working with mechanical clocks carries a certain level of risk, as the power stored in the mainsprings can cause injury if not handled carefully. On the other hand, weight-driven clocks generally present less risk.

Although this article may not cover every possible scenario, I hope it has provided you with a clearer understanding of your clock’s issue and how to approach its resolution.

August 4, 2018

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

What should have taken minutes stretched to an hour or more

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Servicing a 400-day Clock

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Using the Manual

Related Articles

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

None of the labels on my clocks have the word “schoolhouse” written on them. They are either described as a “drop octagon” or have a specific model name

“Special edition” clocks inspired by the classic schoolhouse wall clock are still sold today though you will find a quartz movement inside

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Spring ahead, Fall behind

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

These clocks are not uncommon on online auction sites

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Is it Perfect?

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Rate this:

Share this:

Categories of Clocks

Running Time

Winding a Clock Movement

Over-winding

Why Has My Clock Stopped

Final thoughts

Rate this:

Share this: