Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock in as-found condition
The photos tell the story
Some time ago I wrote an article on an Ansonia barn find. It is an Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock, circa 1880. I thought I would update readers on how this little project is progressing. I was able to find most of the parts but there are still some missing. I will let the photos tell the story.
It did not look like it would ever run againBefore shot of the seized time-only movementCleaned and serviced one-train time-only movementAnsonia movement in the case and running an 8-day full cycle
The movement was cleaned up with 4 bushings installed and is now able to run a full 8-day cycle. The case received attention with glue repairs, a new backboard, new right finial and a re-lacquering of the veneer surface. The veneer was in good condition and required very minor repairs.
Dial with minor lossesThe dial has been touched up and mounted in the case
Addressing the paint loss on the dial was a challenge. I played with various shades and mixed colours that were a close match to the original. The result is better than it was. The glass fits into a slot on the wood bezel and the fit was surprisingly tight. Had I known I would have glued the bezel pieces with the glass in place. Lesson learned!
I am still missing the drop access door plus its reverse painted glass and the brass bezel that surrounds the dial face. I will make the door but will leave that project for another day. My search for the brass bezel continues.
As I progress with this restoration project I will keep the reader up to date with changes.
Last summer (2017) my sister asked me to look at her newly acquired Ansonia time-only 1-day cottage clock (circa 1895). “How much did you pay for it”, I said. “Only $25 but it doesn’t work, something is wrong with it,” she said without being specific. And she was correct.
The clock would have not cost much at the time, perhaps a dollar or so but today people collect small clocks such as this and prices can be higher than the more common mantel clock. In those days for an extra 50 cents you could buy a time and strike cottage clock with an alarm feature but his one is pretty basic. They were cheaply built, somewhat disposable since very few made their way to the repair shop and not as many have survived.
Several months have gone by and I thought I should take a look at the clock, repair the movement, spruce up the case and dial face and return it to my sister in working condition. Having completed a number of other projects I decided I had time to tackle this one.
Time-only 30 hour movement
It was dirty as expected and the gears generally loose, particularly the winding arbour. It was clear something around the mainspring was amiss. The click was loose and would not engage every time.
The top plate is removed
Time-only movements are the simplest to work on and this is no exception. If you are starting out in the world of mechanical clocks this is the movement to begin with. The movement is very small in comparison to mantel or kitchen clocks and measures only 2 inches wide by 3 inches tall. Despite its diminutive size, it is easy to work on. The case itself is only 9 1/2 inches tall by 7 inches wide by 3 1/2 inches deep.
The movement had been worked on before. The click anchor screw was stripped and there were punch marks on the escape wheel bridge.
New bushing but 2 punch marks are visible
The most troubling issue was the main wheel arbour which had detached from the gear. It took a few punches on the brass shroud to push it in back into place and secure the wheel to the arbour. Not the prettiest of repairs but very functional. The click was also loose and would barely engage the ratchet. It took a couple of hits with a hammer on the holding pin to secure it tightly in place.
The arbour is now secured to the wheel and the click has been repaired
Four bushings were installed, the centre arbour (rear), the rear of numbers 2 and 3 wheels and the escape wheel bridge.
Centering prior to drilling a hole for a bushing. You can also see how small the plate is
The clock was mounted on the test stand and run for several days without issue. Once testing was completed it was returned to its case.
The numbers on the dial were somewhat faded. I decided to address the numbers with a little paint.
Faded numerals on the dial face
I was concerned about being too invasive when touching up the dial but I thought the numerals should stand out a little more. I used a number 2 paintbrush and touched them up using flat black acrylic metal paint and a Sharpie pen for the small lines. The effect is subtle without being over the top.
After touching up the numbers with paint and using a Sharpie and straight-edge for the thin lines
The case was cleaned up with a toothbrush and Murphy’s Soap. There is some finish loss on top but I will leave that as-is.
Here is the completed project. The movement is now back in its case.
Assembled, in beat and ticking away strongly
The hands, which appear original, are attached and the clock is running better than it has in years.
I am sure that my sister will be pleased when the clock is returned to her.
The other day I decided to explore my humble beginnings and realized that 240 posts ago was post number one. Three years ago I had recently retired and I decided to look into blogging, something I always wanted to do. I never considered myself a great writer. I do not have that natural flair that some people seem to have for writing but I wanted to give it a try. I had some thoughts and ideas that I wanted to communicate with an audience that was looking for something a little different.
I attended a WordPress session at my local college and was very impressed with how easy it was to set up a blogging site. Anyone can do it said the facilitator and I wasted no time getting started. WordPress impressed me as a very intuitive package then and after 3 years I am still impressed with the power of the product.
This year as some of you know I decided to buy a domain name which I think is a great name and says everything it needs to, antiquevintageclock.com and a 1-year automatically renewable subscription. I won’t go into the additional benefits of the new package suffice to say the time was right for a change. The result has been a slight uptick in hits and exposure to more powerful options within WordPress.
Just a note about hits. In the first week or so of my new domain name my hits dropped dramatically, something to do with Google’s ranking analytics and not unusual for a brand new domain name. Of course, after I hit the migrate button and saw my hits drop I found an article that spoke directly to making preparations beforehand to avoid low hits after migration but too late for me. It would have been nice for a WordPress warning box to pop that would have read, “Oh, before you do that you may want to read this”
So, here is what I said three years ago. It was a short article and I remember at the time what a real struggle it was to put those first few words together.
I am no more than a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a great talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.
It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota 2-train wall clock about 3 years ago.
The clock that started my collection, a humble Chinese clock that still ticks today.
Now I know what you are thinking. Why start with a Chinese made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. Well, it was pretty cheap and it piqued my interest in collecting. From there I moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.
I intend to profile my clocks both old and newly acquired on this blog and describe my attempts to repair and maintain my modest collection. I might even solicit a little help from my fellow clock enthusiasts.
Some of the nicer things about clock collecting are that is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling. Finding good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting fabulous deals. All the photos on this site are my own. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical clocks and talk about the pedigree if I can learn anything about the history of any of these clocks..
Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I will be able to share my many experiences.
Well, I am still doing what I set out to do, profile my modest collection and pass on the clock repair techniques I have learned to the novice and intermediate clock repairer. Do I know more than I knew then? Sure, isn’t that what learning is all about? I am still tuned in and I hope you are too.
On a recent trip to the Dominican Republic my wife and I spent the day in the capital city of Santo Domingo. It is the largest city in the Dominican Republic and the oldest city in the Americas.
Square in historic centre of Santo DomingoCentral cathedral, Santo Domingo
Although the city considers itself a European in style and architecture, in appearance it is not unlike any other city in the Caribbean. Most of the historic buildings are located in the Colonial Zone or Zona Colonial, a walled 16-square-block historic district with many firsts of the New World such as the first cathedral, university, and hospital. Most of our time was spent in this historic district where we saw museums, castles, churches, had a light lunch and this sundial.
Sundial in historic district Santo Domingo, showing 11:30amJesuit church, Santo Domingo
A sundial is a device that tells the time when there is sunlight. It does so by casting a shadow according to the position of the sun in the sky. The part of it that casts the shadow is called the gnomon, a sort of shark-fin like object. As the earth turns on its polar axis, the sun appears to cross the sky from east to west, rising at sun-rise from beneath the horizon to a zenith at mid-day and falling again behind the horizon at sunset. Sundials indicate the local solar time only. Before the introduction of the mechanical clock, the sundial was the only source of time. Ironically, when the clcok was invented the sundial became more important as a way of regulating the clock as its accuracy was poor.
The Alcázar de Colón, or Columbus Alcazar is the oldest Viceregal residence in AmericaTorre del Reloj, clock tower, Santo Domingo
Sundials have been invented independently in all major cultures and become more accurate and sophisticated as the culture developed. The earliest sundials go back to 1500BC from ancient Egyptian astronomy, however, humans were telling time from shadow-lengths at an even earlier date, but this is difficult to verify.
Indeed, we have come a long way from the sundial.
Unlike mechanical clock movements, they are easy to maintain. As they say, there are two clocks that should never be oiled, the Atmos and the sundial.
Of the five anniversary clocks in my collection, none have cost me more than $30. It’s unfortunate because these clocks are truly fascinating devices. They are well-crafted, delicate, and ornamental, driven by spring mechanisms. While many thousands were produced, their abundance is reflected in their low value today. My focus is on collecting the older mechanical models, the last of which were manufactured over 35 years ago, and steer clear of the battery-operated anniversary clocks still being sold.
Among clock repair enthusiasts (horologists), opinions on anniversary clocks vary—some enjoy working on them, while others struggle to develop an affinity for them. I fall firmly into the former group, finding these clocks both intriguing and enjoyable to work on.
Kundo 400 day torsion clock
Gustav Becker, Haller, and Schatz 400-day clocks are certainly more desirable, better made, and fetch higher prices. While I don’t have any of these makes in my collection, I am always on the lookout for more desirable and collectible models.
Movement prior to cleaning and showing verdigris on the spring barrel
I picked this up for $5 at a local antique store. When buying one of these clocks, regardless of the price, it’s crucial to check that all parts are present, as sourcing a missing part can be nearly impossible unless you purchase an identical clock for parts. Often, the only issue is a broken suspension spring.
Fortunately, this Kundo clock was complete and in generally good condition. However, the suspension spring had clearly been snapped off due to improper transport. Many people either forget about or are unaware that these clocks feature highly effective pendulum locking mechanisms.
These are called torsion clocks because there is a weighted disk or wheel, often a decorative wheel with 3 or 4 chrome or brass balls on ornate spokes, suspended by a thin wire or ribbon called a torsion spring (otherwise known as a suspension spring). The torsion pendulum rotates about the vertical axis of the wire, twisting it, instead of swinging like an ordinary pendulum.
These clocks operate very slowly—in the case of this Kundo Junior, just 10 beats per minute compared to 100 beats per minute or more for a typical pendulum mantel clock. Due to the slow movement of the gears, wear is minimal, and it’s quite common to find these clocks with a broken suspension spring as their only issue.
Front plate removed
The movement was disassembled and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. The mainspring was removed from the barrel, cleaned, and serviced. Otherwise, there was minimal wear to the pivot holes. In fact, I have never needed to install a bushing in an anniversary clock because their slow operation results in very little friction.
The old spring was very twisted
Now, it’s time to install the new suspension spring. The suspension spring is a very thin piece of steel running down the back of the clock, designed to twist back and forth while suspending the pendulum balls. It’s crucial not to kink or bend it, as a bent or crimped spring is the most common reason these clocks fail to function properly.
You can purchase pre-assembled suspension springs in kit form—springs already fitted with blocks and a fork—but I’ve found it far more cost-effective to buy the springs separately and re-use the blocks and fork. To ensure accuracy, I consulted my Horolovar manual (I eventually purchased one) to find the exact template—Kundo 5E, in this case. I then unscrew the blocks and fork to install the new spring. Here is an example of a suspension spring from a Kern 400-day clock.
A new suspension spring was installed on a Kern
Installing the suspension spring requires a little patience. While it is a delicate process, it’s relatively easy to do. It’s best to work on a flat surface. There are screws on both the top and bottom blocks that must be loosened before the new spring can be inserted. The bottom block was a bit stubborn, and a jeweler’s screwdriver is essential—you don’t want to strip those tiny screws.
Use the template in the Horolovar manual as your guide. For the Kern clock mentioned earlier, I had to rely on some guesswork while waiting for the manual to arrive, but once it did, I was able to confirm the measurements. After positioning the blocks, attach the fork and secure it with screws.
Install the bottom block first. Attach the spring block to the 4 pendulum balls with the pin then lock the pendulum balls in place using the locking lever. Some 400-day clocks use a simpler bottom block solution that simply hooks the block into place. Because this one uses a pin it is a bit more frustrating. After the bottom block is secured and locked in place install the top block to the top mount by first slipping the fork over the verge post. In the case of this Kundo it is a small side screw that secures the top block to the mount (saddle?).
I then attached the dial face and the hands then gave the pendulum a gentle 360-degree spin. Not surprisingly the clock failed to maintain its spin. An adjustment was required.
Looking at the top of the clock, you’ll see a screw that can be loosened to adjust the fork in one direction or another. Be very careful not to kink the suspension spring when loosening this screw. Loosen it gently, just enough to allow movement, and make small, incremental adjustments when setting the beat. While you can buy a beat adjustment tool for 400-day clocks, with a bit of trial and error—observing the verge’s action and fine-tuning the beat setter—you’ll eventually find the correct beat. You’ll know it’s “in beat” when the time between the tick and tock is the same. At that point, the clock should run smoothly. Since the ticking is so quiet, it helps to turn off any background noise in the room while making adjustments. I have several loud-ticking clocks in my office, and I stop them to assist with the process.
If you work on enough torsion clocks, a Timetrax or similar beat amplifier will make the task much easier.
The clock has been running for several weeks and is in the process of being regulated. Above the pendulum balls in a regulating adjustment dial. You will see a “+” and a “-“. Adjusting towards the plus side speeds up the clock and the minus slows it down. I recommend minute turns for either adjustment.
There’s some debate about whether or not to oil these clocks, given the slow movement of the gears. While polishing the pivots to reduce friction can certainly be beneficial, I believe a bit of pivot oil is never a bad idea.
As I mentioned earlier, I’m part of the group that enjoys working on 400-day clocks, appreciating their delicate mechanisms and the satisfaction that comes with restoring them to working condition.
When I saw this listed on an online for sale site and not seeing a picture of the clock I was very curious. Imagine my amusement when I opened up the ad and saw this.
Banjo clock
THE AD: Vintage cast iron bango player clock beautiful piece Heavy 16 in tall great condition
Well, it IS a banjo clock or should I say “bango”!
The clock is a 1937 Blackforest Royal Tour commemorative edition shelf clock with an 8-day time-only “plate” clock movement. Plate clock movements are so-called because they were typically used on kitchen clocks with Dutch Delft plates such as this one in the next photo.
Delft Plate Clock from Forestville
The movement is likely German and could have been made by a number of companies. There are no stamps or markings on the movement to give any indication of the maker. Canadian companies such as the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (the Forestville Clock Company after the war) imported German movements before the Second World War and installed them in Canadian made cases.
Grimy movement prior to cleaning
This clock had been happily running for about a year and then last week it suddenly stopped after a winding. I nudged the pendulum in an effort to make it go, checked to see if it was in beat and level but no luck. I nudged the pendulum a few more times, left it for a day or so, tried it again and still no luck. I was at the point of disassembling the movement to investigate the problem. Two days later I wound it tight and gave the pendulum a push and it sprang to life. I think I know what happened.
I thought I did a good job of servicing the movement including the mainspring over a year ago but apparently not well enough. You may have heard the expression, “you overwound the clock so that’s why it stopped”. There is a grain of truth in the expression because if you wind the spring till it winds no further the mainspring is at it tightest. If there are dirt, grime and rust on the mainspring the mainspring will actually cease in place, hence the clock stops. I believe this is what occurred in this case. Although it is running now it will need to be properly cleaned. In the meantime, I will let it run and see if it completes its full 8-day cycle.
From this day onward the new domain for this site is antiquevintageclock.com.
I have been thinking about name change for some time. My reasons are fourfold, to increase viewership, make my site more accessible using search engines, gain more storage space for my photos and have more creative freedom in the design of the site.
In the months to come I hope you, the reader, will appreciate the changes as I offer more content and features.
There may be some growing pains for the first while as I experiment with new templates so I ask for a little patience as I make the new transition to an improved site.
My email address will continue to be ronjoiner@gmail.com although I will explore the benefits of aligning my email address with the site.
I acquired four old clocks in a barn find. Two, a 30 hour Ogee and a mantel clock were totally unsalvageable although I managed to take off some veneer, case parts, a movement, boards, case hardware and a few other items.
Elisha Manross 30 hour steeple clock
Two others were worth a second look. One is an Elisha Manross 30 hour Gothic steeple clock that is worth restoring and the other, an Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock, the subject of this article.
There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is merely a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.
The largely intact label says,
Eight-day and thirty hour brass clocks, pendulum clocks, a variety of……., Also sole manufacturers of Jeweled Marines and eight-day gilt time pieces, Ansonia Brass and Copper….Ansonia Conn.
This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2 inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door opens downwards. Other Drop Extra access doors open to the side.
Much has been written about the Ansonia clock company. The company history can be found here. Formed in 1844, the Ansonia Clock Company went into receivership just before the stock market crash in 1929. The machinery and dies were sold to a Russian Company in 1931 thus ending the long reign of a glorious American clock manufacturer.
The Lima (Ohio) News gave this account in a March 12, 1931 news report:
“…there came an order to supply the Soviet union with men and machines to make watches and clocks, neither of which products ever had been manufactured there. Representatives of Amtorg went to the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn and to the Duber Hampden Watch Company of Canton, Ohio, and bought them lock, stock and barrel. Then they hired most of the skilled employees of the plants to go to Russia and operate the familiar machines. These have been installed in a new, many-windowed building in Moscow, where Russian apprentices are beginning to master the trade.”
The time-only movement appears unusual because of the oversize 2nd and 3rd wheels. The dial glass is original as is the painted dial which is 11 1/2 inches wide. The painted zinc dial has black Roman numerals, is flaked in some areas and requires stabilization. The flaking dial could use some work if only to arrest the deterioration of the finish. In the meantime the numerals have been touched up with black metal paint.
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Seized time-only movement
The clock is in generally poor shape, what I would consider a diamond in the rough. A challenging project? Yes, because there are so many missing parts. Missing are the brass dial bezel, clock hands, pendulum bob, verge, drop access door with its hardware, right tear drop finial and 3 hinges. The finish is completely gone, down to the bare veneer. The veneer has some minor losses that are in hidden from view but for the most part the case is in good condition.
The movement was rusty and the wheels were seized. Obviously the clock had not been running in a number of years. After applying some WD-40 I managed to free the gears. In addition, two bent wheels (2nd and 3rd) had to be straightened. The rust was removed and the movement cleaned up surprisingly well. Only one bushing was required on the escape wheel bridge. The movement is presently installed in the clock and running well with the addition of a new verge, pendulum rod and bob.
There is nothing special about bringing the veneer back to life. After a thorough cleaning with Murphy’s soap I applied three coats of shellac lightly sanding after each coat. The photo shows the clock after the third application of shellac.
Ansonia backboard with partial label & movement mount blocks
A section on the right side of the backboard was missing. I salvaged a piece of board from a donor Waterbury Ogee from about the same period and traced a pattern to fit the missing piece. Replacing the entire backboard might have been an option but I felt it necessary to preserve most of the label. Hide glue was used to bond the two boards which were then clamped for 24 hours. The gaps were filled with a combination of hide glue and sawdust one day later.
Ansonia movement running and installed in the case
Unfortunately, this is as far as I can go with this project. Unless the previous owner finds the missing pieces which is doubtful or I find another clock to marry the two together this clock will simply be a curiosity on a wall. In the meantime I have contacted some clock suppliers and have had no luck so far. My inquiries on clock oriented social media sites have also produced no results.
Rosewood veneered dial bezel in position
The movement has been running reliably for a full 8-day cycle and has run for the past 4 weeks. Despite not having the parts I require to complete the project there is a certain satisfaction in making a clock run that has not run in years.
In my past life I was a community college instructor. My students ranged in age from age 20 and beyond but most were around the early 20s.
For years I had an analogue clock just above my office door. I often met with students but when I was pressed for time (not meaning to be rude) I would casually glance at the clock over the office door rather than look at my wristwatch. One day I asked a student what time we should meet again. They said, “well, what time is it now?” I said, the clock is right there, pointing to my office clock. They looked at it quizzically and said, “I can’t tell the time from that”, “I never learned”. What I heard hit me like a ton of bricks and this was a very bright student.
The big hand is on the left
The biggest difference between the Millennials and their predecessors is in how they view the world
We talked.
Me: Where is the small hand pointing?
Them: What do you mean, small hand?
Me: I pointed out the difference between the long and the short hand, the long indicating the minutes and the short, the hours.
Them: Between 3 and 4.
Me: So that means it is 3 something. Where is the long hand pointing?
Them: On the 6.
Me: What’s 5 times 6?
Them: 30.
Me: So it’s 3:30. Simple.
Them: Oh!
Are smart phones destroying our present generation? Is the digital age having a deleterious effect on our young people? Many scholarly articles and vigorous debate attempt to explore how the present generation thinks and as you would expect there are many theories.
It’s no wonder that analogue mechanical clocks are hitting their lowest price levels in years
As a community college instructor I should have been aware of generational differences and the impact that smart phones and the digital world have had on our present generation. I was making assumptions that how we learned way back when was very much like how young people learn today. Boy, was I wrong! The biggest difference between the Millennials and their immediate predecessors and even my generation is in how they view the world; young people today differ from previous generations not just in their views but in how they perceive the world around them as sound-bytes, fleeting images and instant messages. The experiences they have every day are radically different from my generation.
The little hand is between the twelve and the one
Time for them takes on a different dimension. Time is at the same time important yet unimportant. Time for young people is not measured in imprecise phrases like “about a quarter to”. It has a certain curious precision that is at odds with my generation (1950s and 1960s). What time is it? To them the time is precisely “seven thirteen”, not “half past” or ” a quarter past”. And don’t get me going on fractions!
In the following months all the clocks on the college campus were replaced with digital versions. One day I had a conversation with the facilities manager and he said, “we took them all down because the students can’t read them”. It brought me back to my conversation with the student and I completely understood.
I collect antique analogue clocks and it makes me sad there there is a generation, and perhaps future generations going forward who will not appreciate the beauty and utility of the that “old fashioned” analogue clock. Will these clocks be lost to a generation who feel that they are completely irrelevant? I hope not!
It’s no wonder that analogue mechanical clocks are hitting their lowest price levels in years. Case in point. I bought an circa 1835 Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse column and splat 30 hour clock at an auction recently and paid just 30CDN (24USD).
Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse ogee and splat 30-hour clock, bought at recent auction
To this generation analogue clocks (and antique clocks for that matter) are meaningless, unnecessary and pointless.
But to us old folks they continue to have a certain charm that cannot be explained, well, to young people, anyway!
Mercedes makes a great car. Do they make clocks? No! Is this Mercedes novelty timepiece a great clock? Read on.
Attractive ceramic clock with time-only movement
This very attractive 30-hour Mercedes ceramic mechanical shelf clock of the Baroque Meissen style (debatable) from the 1970s is more of a novelty item than a clock.
It is a time-only alarm clock movement made by Gebrüder Hauser and marketed under several names one of which is Mercedes. Ceramic clocks on eBay or any other auction sites will reveal the Mercedes name as well as other retail names on similar-looking clocks. For example here is a similarly styled Alana clock. Same casting sans gold detailing.
The Alana, similar to Mercedes but without the gold-colored accents
This Mercedes novelty clock is in excellent condition with no chips, cracks or any sign of wear. But is it worth anything? Not a lot.
History of the company
The Gebrüder Hauser clock factory (Die Uhrenfabrik Gebrüder Hauser) was founded in 1923 by Otto and Josef Hauser in Weigheim, Germany. Josef Hauser resigned in 1926 and moved on to form his own company. The company name Gebrüder Hauser then received an additional owner, Otto Hauser.Aside from alarm clocks, clocks with pendulums and chess clock works were produced.
Spring winder, time set screw and speed lever on rear of the clock
In 1951, the son, Eduard Hauser joined the company.From 1955 onward small affordable alarm clocks and chess clockworks were manufactured.In 1965 Norbert Hauser joined the company and the company name was changed to KG.
The Gebrüder Hauser KG clock factory in Weigheim was eventually closed on 31 July 1998.
Are they common?
There are a number of variants of this clock, mechanical, electrical, and quartz. The mechanical version will command higher prices and is more desirable. Unfortunately, they are throwaway clocks and the cost of servicing would be far more than they are worth.
Nevertheless, it makes for an attractive mantelpiece and as a gift, it is likely the recipient will not keep it wound.
The Westclox Clock Company is better known for various versions of Big Ben and Baby Ben windup alarm clocks produced from 1900 to the mid 1980s. But there were other windup models one of which is the Art Deco styled LaSalle series. This is the model 61-C (401) otherwise known as a Dura clock because they have nickel-plated, die-cast zinc cases made by The Dura Casting Corporation in the United States. There are 6 models in the LaSalle series and all use the Westclox type 61 Baby Ben, one day movement.
Westclox LaSalle alarm clock
Gee that old LaSalle ran great….those were the days! (a line borrowed from the theme song to All in the Family)
I have a modest collection of alarm clocks and if something interests me I will buy it. My wife found this Westclox Alarm clock at an antique store in Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada). At $20 the price was right. It is solid, well made, attractive and partially assembled in Canada.
There is no information on which clock parts were made in Canada and which parts were manufactured in the Peterborough plant through the years
Westclox alarm back of clock showing winding mechanism; oftentimes knobs are missing on these old clocks
The LaSalle 400 series ran from 1930 to 1934. This is model 61C. The clock measures 3 1/8 inches high. The base is 3 1/4 inches and the depth is 1 3/4 inches.
Bottom of clock showing Patent dates & “Case made in USA by Dura”
Inside is a Baby Ben movement. The Baby Ben movement was first marketed in 1910 and first nationally advertised in 1915. The 5-year delay occurred because the company was going through organizational changes and it took 3 years to improve the reliability of the Baby Ben. The patent date on this clock is 1914.
In 1912 Westclox opened a sales office in Toronto, Canada as part of its policy to establish world markets. Somewhere between 1920 and 1922 production began at the plant in Peterborough, Canada. At that time parts were shipped from the LaSalle-Peru plant for final assembly in Canada. Unfortunately, there is no information on which clock parts were made in Canada and which parts were manufactured in the Peterborough plant through the years. Thousands of Big Ben and Baby Ben alarm clocks were manufactured and sold through the 1920s to the 1970s. In the early 1980s production in Canada stopped.
I avoid clocks with radium dials. Since radium has a half-life of hundreds of years even old radium dials are very hazardous. If working on a clock with a radium dial care should be taken to prevent the inhalation or ingestion of flakes or dust which may contain radioactive materials. In the past several years radium dials have largely been replaced by phosphorescent – or occasionally tritium-based light sources.
Side view of alarm clock
I took the back cover off and found an inscription indicating that it was last serviced in 1955. The markings are unusual because alarm clocks rarely see servicing and once they stop they are simply discarded or used as paper weights.
That LaSalle may have run great at one time but not now. I can hear it ticking but once set down it abruptly stops. A thorough cleaning is required.
It is a nice piece of Canadian Horological history.
I have never paid more that 30CDN for one but I see these clocks selling on EBay and other online for-sale sites at twice and three times what I typically pay
This a is Part II of a two part series on repairing a 400 day clock. Part I can be found here.
Attractive dial face, free of cracks and blemishes
I have four anniversary clocks (otherwise known as torsion clocks). I have never paid more that 30CDN for one but I see these clocks selling on EBay and other online for-sale sites at twice and three times what I typically pay. In fact, I saw one on EBay this morning (Oct 3, 2017) for 119US plus 39US shipping. The description is amusing:
When I tested it, I spun the balls about a full turn and it continued to spin back and forth for several minutes. From my understanding these things are supposed to go for a whole day without being spun again. I think it might need to be cleaned for it to do that.
The string still looks good; the cover is cracked a little where it connects to the clock but isn’t falling off.
Numerous dents, the pendulum locking guard is there for a reason! Not using it results in a snapped suspension spring and dents
The Horolovar suspension spring arrived today and now to install it in on the movement. 400 day clocks are easy to disassemble/clean and re-assemble but getting it to work correctly can be frustrating. Setting the beat can be a challenge.
To perform servicing on a 400 day clock you must have the Horolovar 400 day Repair Guide as a reference. The guide takes the guesswork out completely.
The old spring was snapped off just above the bottom block and unfortunately it was not re-usable
Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide
Horolovar templates
I received my guide as a Christmas gift last year. For my first Kundo miniature (bought and serviced in 2015) I did not have the guide and after a lot of guessing and cursing I managed to get the suspension spring installed correctly but it was more luck than skill.
Unfortunately, I required a new suspension spring for this clock. The old spring was snapped off just above the bottom block and not re-usable.
The guide tells me that this 400 clock is a Kundo Standard 53 that uses a .0032″ or .o81mm Horolovar spring. If you do not have the time to assemble suspension units, Horolovar will gladly sell you completely assembled units but you pay much more. In Section 10 of the guide there are templates for a number of clocks. Having a template at hand allows one to follow a pattern when screwing the fork and the upper and lower blocks to the suspension wire. This clock was template 3A.
The screws on the suspension assembly are very small and it pays to have good quality precision screwdrivers. It was not all joy, however. All went well until I got to the bottom block. The bottom block was seized and it took an extra effort to release the two block screws. However, once I overcame that little issue the completed assembly looked exactly like the template. The spring is longer than necessary and must be trimmed to fit. Now to install it on the movement.
Arrow indicates insertion point for top block
The suspension spring assembly slipped into the top and bottom easily. There is a threaded thumbscrew on the top base that slips into the top block (arrow in photo above). The bottom block has two hanger pins that the pendulum rests on. Next is the back spring cover and the locking guard. The locking guard is an earlier design and looks a somewhat flimsy but should work.
Once installed on the movement it is time to test the beat. The beat should be 8 beats per minute.
Next few days
There is nothing fancy about the beat adjustment. The top block fits into a friction fit base that is moved left or right to find the best beat. Moving the base allows one to position the fork that rocks the pallets back and forth so that the beat can be set.
As of this writing the clock has been running for 48 hours but there is a slight variance in the over-swing on each side after the click (I use toothpicks to check the over-swing – see photo below) which means that while the clock is running and keeping reasonable time the clock is very, very slightly out-of-beat. Minute changes in the next few days will address that.
I rotated the speed adjustment dial just above the pendulum several times as the clock was losing 10 minutes per day and am now discovering that a previous owner or a child perhaps gave that dial a few spins to see what would happen. Setting the time is a slow process and it will take a week or more to set the time correctly.
Using toothpicks to set the beat by observing the position of the over-swing
Working on anniversary clocks is always very satisfying for me and this is why I love them:
Anniversary clocks are time-only with few gears,
Relatively inexpensive to buy (though some Schatz and Gustav Beckers are less common, more desirable and more expensive),
Very quiet (this is a clock to have if a ticking clock drives you crazy),
Easy to dis-assemble/clean and re-assemble,
Operate so slowly that there is seldom any pivot wear and therefore, easy to service,
A great conversation piece,
They run for 400 days or more on a single wind though do not depend on them for accuracy.
Final note: this clock will be gifted to my daughter in Victoria who has always been fascinated with anniversary clocks.
Yoo may chooz clock 3 for ohnly 135$ or 2 for ohnly $185 or 3 for ohnly 235$ or all for jist 350$. Theze 400-day Clocs are in ecselent condishn and reecwire NOH electrisitee and thus NOH batreez, , jist wiinding wunts each year, for constant, dependable time-keeping, noh mater how oftn thu hydro wahz off. Doo note that this kind uv cloc haz at leest a 250 yeerz, air-loom liif-span and sellz for hundredz uv dollarz noo; thu numbr-3 cloc wahz $495 noo; thu numbr-2 wahz $695 and thu fanseer, numbr-1 wahz $795, back when quarts clocs wer beeing introdoosd. I don’t recahl thee exact aje uv them but I can ashoor yoo that thay ahl hav been in mii pohzseshn for les than fiftee yearz, and nun hav any vizible signz uv wear in thair gearz, becuz uv thoze geerz mooving a fraction uv an inch ohnlee 4-timez eech minit, insted uv 60 timez az iz comon with ahl uthr kindz. Ahl-soh, ahl 3 uv theez are thu real thing, NOT thu =FAKE= kind that require batereez and ohnly APEAR too bee authentic, with an electric motor driving thu pendulum and a quartz movement that’s noh mohr reliable than any uthr batery-driven clock. Yoo’re welcum too make uh vyooiing apt. for any time uv any day, sunday throo thurzday.
The clock described in the ad are similar to these in my collection. The prices he or she is quoting are much too high.
Kundo miniature
Kern 400 day clock
Is the seller cleverly deliberate or sadly illiterate? You decide!
The 400-day anniversary clock, also known as long-duration clocks, is a fascinating category of clock known for its ability to run continuously for a full year without needing to be wound. These clocks, often featuring intricate designs and beautifully crafted mechanisms, were first introduced in the late 19th century and have since become a beloved collectible.
Kundo standard size 400 day clock
In this article, we’ll explore the history, mechanics, and appeal of these interesting clocks. This is a two-part series. The first part describes my most recent purchase, a 400-day Kundo anniversary clock. Part II involves the installation of the suspension spring, cleaning, testing, and post adjustments.
400-day clocks are known for their inaccuracy, although they are undeniably beautiful and fascinating to observe. A minute lost each day adds up over the course of a year, potentially totaling many minutes—or even hours—by the end. Despite this, I still find great joy in owning and appreciating them.
A brief history
400 day clocks have been with us since about 1900. There were torsion clocks produced before 1900 but in limited numbers from about 1894 onward but the real push was after 1900. The Kundo model you see here was made in the late 1950s or early 1960s, probably the peak and subsequent decline of the anniversary clock era.
Dial face Kundo Clock
Once quartz clocks were introduced mechanical versions declined precipitously. Kundo is one of many companies making anniversary clocks in the 1950s and 60s. Kundo is a combined form of Kieninger and Obergfell. The company exists to this day as Kieninger, a subsidiary of Howard Miller which is part of a larger company.
This particular clock is a good example of a typical anniversary clock of the period. There are signs of wear as one might expect, dents on the base where an unrestrained pendulum did its damage and a snapped suspension spring but all the parts are there, complete with its dome.
Dents from weights bouncing around during transit
The clock was purchased at a local antique store. It is not in running condition. These clocks typically sell for around $50 to $100 or more on online marketplaces. Domes are often chipped or missing entirely. The glass dome on this one is free of chips.
I have ordered a Horolovar spring (.0032″) and will report on the installation, cleaning, and testing of this 400-day clock. Look for the second part of this series.
We were making our way to Missouri after beginning our journey in Maine in early May (2017). We only had one very important stop along the way because for the past 5 years I have always wanted to see the NAWCC clock museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania. Ever since I seriously wrapped my head around clock collecting and repair my dream was to visit this museum. Getting there was no problem but Interstate traffic is truly a disaster! Unfortunately, we budgeted too little time for a thorough tour in the hour and a half we had but we saw as much as we could in that short time.
Waiting in a hot parking lot for the museum to open was not much fun. Couldn’t you just open the front doors a little earlier than 10:00am? To kill time we walked around the town of Columbia. It might be neat and tidy place and one of the “top twenty small towns to visit in America”, so the sign says, but like all small towns in America the decline is evident in the number of vacant storefronts and absence of activity in the streets.
Sign in Columbia Penn.
We finally got into the museum. We (my wife and I) were the first in and being a NAWCC member my wife and I got in free. During our time there we saw only one other couple. So, not a terribly busy time but there are likely peak periods in the summer.
I was wondering how I would describe my visit to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Museum in Columbia Pennsylvania on that day in May. It was wonderful and more than I had imagined. There is simply not enough time to see everything and take it all in. The museum is very well laid out and there are displays to please everyone.
Vienna Regulator with Grande Sonnerie movement
For me the highlight has to be Engels Monument Clock (see Youtube video below). There was only ourselves and one other couple at the time so we were happy that the staff were able to put on a real show for us. The staffer walked us through the history of the clock and followed with a fascinating demonstration. AS he did so I imagined what it must have like to attend a local fair and see this wonderful clock in action. The clock was exhibited around the country for 74 years and last displayed in 1951 at the Ohio State Fall.
There is an emphasis on American clocks as you would expect but there are excellent examples of French, German, English and Japanese clocks. There is a broad selection of tall case clocks all the way back to the 1700s The history of time was very interesting as are the interactive displays which I am sure would please any children visiting the museum.
In a later article I will post more photos.
Whether you are an avid collector or merely have a casual interest in clocks this is great place to visit.
Purchased earlier this year (2017) I thought it would make the perfect cottage clock. A relative attended an estate auction in Ottawa while I simultaneously bid online in Nova Scotia for the clock. She brought it to her home and it was months later before I actually got to see it. But for one low resolution auction photo, it was bought unseen and as-is.
Delft style clock, auction photo
It is a Delft style, triangle shaped front-wind 8-day time-only porcelain clock with a lever escapement similar to those found in marine/alarm clock movements. It is marked Forestville. While Forestville is a Canadian company the clock is not Canadian made. The Forestville Clock Company is often confused with clocks made in Forestville, Connecticut. According to the following historical information they are not the same.
The Forestville Clock Company of Toronto began its life as the Blackforest Clock Co. of Toronto headed by its founders, Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928. Both movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son, Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents company in the 1930s and later became a full time employee in the 1940s.
Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street factory but most clocks were imported fully assembled. At first, imported mantel and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener, Ontario but later complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War which also led to a change of the company name to Forestville Clock Company in 1941. During the war years the company imported their movements from England, the United States and even France. Starting in the early 1950s German companies resumed production with Mauthe being a major supplier.
Clocks with a Dutch motif reflected a popular trend in the 1950s and 60s perhaps in recognition of Canada’s close relationship with the Dutch people since the war years
The Forestville Clock company was quite successful during the middle decades of the 20th century and many Canadian homes proudly displayed time-only, time and strike and chiming clocks retailed by Forestville. When Ed Stossel retired in 1979 the company survived just a few years without his guidance and leadership.
Clocks with a Dutch motif reflected a popular trend in the 1950s and 1960s perhaps in recognition of Canada’s close relationship with the Dutch people since the war years. Canadian troops liberated Holland at the end of the Second World War, the Dutch holding a particular fondness with Canadians since that time.
It is an attractive but a simple design. There is one scene on each “point” of the “squared off” triangle; a woman in traditional dress carrying water and accompanied by a child on the right, three single-mast sail boats (one large and two small ones) on the left and a Dutch windmill beside a small house on top. The violin bow styled hour and minute hand design is shared with other Forestville clocks.
Mother and child
Windmill and house
Sailboats
The clock ran slowly for the first day or so. On the back of the movement is a speed regulator that one would typically find on an alarm clock, an easy method of making small adjustments.
Speed adjustment
There are no chips, cracks or blemishes on the face. It appears to be in excellent condition and runs well.
Understanding the role of the clock key is essential for proper clock maintenance and operation. The clock key not only winds your antique or vintage clock but also plays a crucial part in ensuring it runs smoothly and efficiently. However, using the correct size key is just as important as the key itself. Using the wrong size can lead to damage or improper winding, affecting the longevity and performance of your clock.
In this article, we’ll explore the purpose of the clock key, why choosing the right size is vital, and provide a helpful chart to guide you in selecting the correct key for your clock.
Winding Mechanical clocks
Mechanical clocks require periodic winding. Some clocks need to be wound daily, such as 30-hour clocks, while others are wound once a week (8-day clocks). Some clocks run for 14 days, and anniversary clocks can run for up to 400 days on a single winding.
Most mechanical clocks have a winding hole located on the dial face, where the clock key is inserted. The key should fit snugly—neither too tight nor too loose—ensuring smooth operation when winding.
Why Key Size Matters
Except for the smaller regulating arbour on some clock faces, most winding arbours or winding points are the same size on the clock. This means one key will fit all of them. However, over time, a clock’s original key may go missing. If this happens, you can often use a key from another mechanical clock, and one of them will usually fit.
A micrometre is a useful tool to measure the thickness of a winding arbour. However, measuring the arbour’s size often requires removing the clock movement from its case. Once you’ve measured, you can order the correct key online.
Using a micrometre to check pivot diameter; this tool can be used to measure the thickness of a winding arbour
Different Types of Keys
In general, larger German movements use a #8 key, though some require a #7 key. Many 31-day clocks, or clocks made in Korea or China, use a #6 or #7 key. Many American mantel clocks require a #5 or #6 key.
Keys come in all shapes and sizes. In the photo below are keys from German and American movements. The two-pronged keys (4 and 5 prongs) are available at any clock supply house such as Perrin or Timesavers and will fit many clock winding arbours. Many other sizes can also be ordered. eBay, online marketplaces and antique stores are other sources for clock keys.
4 and 5 prong keys and singles
In the photo below you can see two types of double-ended keys
Double-ended keys
The one on the left is used for winding a typical American clock. The large end fits into the winding arbour while the small end is for adjusting the speed of your clock. Many clocks have a smaller arbour used for adjusting the speed of your clock and will have “S” and “F” (Slow/Fast) inscribed on the dial generally near the 12 o’clock position.
The key on the right is for a time-only carriage clock. The small end is used to advance the minute hand and the large end fits onto the mainspring arbour.
Speed adjustment arbour requires the small end of a two-ended key
Grandfather and Ogee Clocks
30-hour weight-driven Ogee clocks typically require a #4, #5, or #6 crank key. Many grandfather clocks use a #10 or #11 winding crank, and it’s important not to wind them with a conventional clock key. For clocks with weight cables, the winding crank is essential for raising the weights. Insert the crank into the arbour and carefully wind the weights up until they reach the top of the clock, ensuring they remain fully visible.
Some clock keys will also have a number stamped on them indicating their size.
Storing Your Clock Key
It’s important to keep your clock key in a safe, easily accessible place. Keys should be stored either beside the clock, within the front access door of a wall clock, or in a caddy inside the case. Mantel clocks with key caddies can be inconvenient, as you must move the clock to open the back door to access the key. However, for homes with small children, keeping the key in its caddy helps ensure it remains out of reach.
Key caddy behind the access door
Key Size Chart
Here is a chart that lists key sizes in millimetres for both American and Swiss movements, from small to large:
Key Size
American (mm)
Swiss (mm)
5/0
1.6
1.25
4/0
1.8
1.5
3/0
2.0
1.75
2/0
2.2
2.0
0
2.4
2.25
1
2.6
2.5
2
2.8
2.75
3
3.0
3.0
4
3.2
3.25
5
3.4
3.5
6
3.6
3.75
7
3.8
4.0
8
4.0
4.25
9
4.2
4.5
10
4.4
4.75
11
4.6
5.0
12
4.8
5.25
13
5.0
5.5
14
5.2
5.75
15
5.4
6.0
16
5.6
6.25
17
5.8
6.5
18
6.0
6.75
19
6.2
7.0
20
6.4
7.25
21
6.6
7.5
22
6.8
7.75
23
7.0
8.0
Winding crank in a miniature Vienna Regulator
There is no key required for weight-driven clocks that have weight chains. Winding involves pulling the weight(s) to the top of the clock once each week.
Choosing the correct clock key is essential for the proper functioning and longevity of your mechanical clock. Whether you’re winding an antique mantel clock, a grandfather clock, or a time-only carriage clock, using the right key size ensures smooth operation and prevents damage to the movement.
With a variety of key sizes available, understanding your clock’s requirements and keeping the key in a safe, accessible location will help you maintain your timepiece in excellent working condition. By following the guidelines and chart provided, you can confidently select the correct key and enjoy the reliable performance of your clock for many years to come.
Regulating your clock is the process of making repeated, precise adjustments to its mechanism with the goal of enhancing its accuracy and ensuring it functions as a reliable timekeeper over an extended period.
The running of your mechanical clock is influenced by three key factors: neglect, friction, and the environment. These elements will determine whether your clock can maintain accurate timekeeping. The article ends with tips on regulating your clock and the effects of mainspring power on timekeeping.
Let’s look at each factor.
Neglect
Neglect is easy to understand: without proper care, a clock will lose its reliability as a timekeeper. Placing a clock in a sunny spot, especially in a hot window, can cause the case to age prematurely and dry out the movement. Setting a clock near a heat source, like a heating vent, can affect its performance. Transporting a weight-driven clock without securing the weights can result in broken case parts and shattered glass. Moving a pendulum clock without removing the pendulum can cause internal damage.
Additionally, turning the hands backward should be avoided unless the manufacturer specifically permits it in the clock’s instructions.
Using a winding crank
Friction
Each moving part of a clock must be in optimal condition. The gear train should move freely, but excess friction will negatively impact the clock’s performance. Regular lubrication is crucial to prevent this. Friction causes wear, and over time, wear can lead to costly and time-consuming repairs. As bushing wear accelerates, the clock’s functionality will deteriorate, eventually causing it to stop.
Close-up of bushing wear; the pivot hole is oval when it should be circular
It’s good practice to inspect your clock’s movement every year or two and add oil if the pivots are dry. If you notice a buildup of thick, dirty oil around the pivot holes during your inspection, it’s time to service the clock’s movement. This can be done either by you, if you have the necessary skills, or by a clock specialist.
Six bushings installed on the back plate of a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock movement
Once the lubricating oil is used up or dries out the clock continues to run but the wheels are running without lubrication in their pivots holes. Once the pivot holes are enlarged (see above) the gears begin to run too deep into each other and the clock eventually stops. In clock circles the proper function of one gear operating with another, smoothly is referred to as “meshing”. Once wear becomes a factor, winding the springs no longer helps, as the springs lack sufficient power, or the gears fail to mesh properly, preventing them from overcoming friction in the gear train.
This leads some owners to think the clock is stopping due to being “over-wound,” when in reality, it’s simply worn out, or there is so much debris and dried oil in the mainspring that it sticks and refuses to unwind.
Preventative maintenance can help avoid costly repairs.
Servicing a clock is a separate topic altogether but black or green oil around or in the pivot holes is an indication that re-oiling will be ineffective; dis-assembly and cleaning of the movement is necessary.
Mixing old, dirty clock oil with new oil will speed up wear, and adding more oil won’t improve its performance.
Environment
Changes in the ambient temperature of your environment will affect it’s timekeeping rate. It is quite common to make seasonal adjustments to your clock. If you are in a temperate climate such as my part of the world, humidity, and temperature changes have a noticeable effect on the rate-keeping of any clock. Increasing the ambient temperature will slow it down, from the expansion and lengthening of the pendulum rod (unless it has a compensating type pendulum).
Clocks perform better in the more controlled environment of a home, but damp basements, window sills, bathrooms, areas above heating elements or vents, garages, and other humid spaces are unsuitable for mechanical clocks. Harsh environments can damage both the movement and the case, leading to issues like cracks, fading, and detached veneer in addition to a myriad of problems with the movement.
Pendulum bob with regulating adjustment
Regulating your Mechanical Clock
Regulating a clock often means making incremental changes to the length of the pendulum by means of a rate adjustment screw located at the end of the pendulum, or as in the case of a French clock pendulum (above) a rating screw inside the bob. Turning the rating screw clockwise shortens the pendulum (faster) and counterclockwise lengthens (slower) it.
Usually, one full turn of the screw means adding or subtracting a minute per week. To simplify the process some clocks have a rate adjustment arbour on the dial, typically at the 12 o’clock position. That way you do not have to open the access door at the back of the clock to adjust the rating nut on the pendulum.
Rate adjustment arbor
If you have a double-ended key, the smaller end is used for the rate adjustment arbour. The “S” (slow) and “F” (fast) settings correspond to adjusting the clock’s speed—slowing it down or speeding it up. Clocks may have either one of these adjustments, but sometimes both (adjustable pendulum and rate adjustment arbor), as on this French shelf clock.
French mantel clock
Rate adjustment is a trial-and-error process and typically takes a week or longer. If you can adjust your mechanical clock within a minute or two per week you are doing well. You will gradually gain a feel for the kind of adjustment required to regulate your particular clock.
Clocks without pendulums are those that have lever escapements, floating balance escapements, or balance wheel escapements. Regulation is achieved by moving a lever from slow to fast (as indicated on a wheel for instance) or adjusting weights in one direction or another on the escape wheel. There are specific directions on how to this and it is best to consult the instruction manual on your clock or search for resources online.
Mainspring Power and Regulation
When winding a spring-driven clock you are winding a sturdy coiled metal spring. The mainspring is an energy storage system or a power source. When you turn the key the winding gets tighter until you cannot turn the key any further. This stored energy (or potential energy) is now ready to be released but because a clock has reduction gears and an escapement (method for energy to escape) the energy is designed to be released at a steady and controlled rate. The purpose of the gear train is to convert the slow rotation of the main wheel into the faster rotation needed to tell the time. Each wheel in the train turns faster than the previous one.
A spring-driven clock tends to release most of its energy at the beginning of a cycle and releases less energy towards the end of it’s winding cycle which is typically an 8-day period. Most clocks will run longer than eight days but will lose more time as the spring supplies less power.
Regulating some spring-driven clocks can be challenging due to the way they release their power, though this can vary depending on the clockmaker. If your vintage or antique spring-driven mantel or wall clock is accurate to within 1-2 minutes per week, it’s performing quite well.
Sessions Beveled No 2 tambour style clock and French carriage clock
My Sessions time and strike tambour-style clock typically runs about one minute fast at the start of the week and around one minute slow by the end of the week. This is normal.
This one-weight Vienna wall clock is accurate to within 30 seconds a week
On the other hand, weight-driven clocks are more accurate since they release power at a constant rate through the winding cycle. Weight-driven clocks are generally more reliable timekeepers and are easier to regulate.
Junghans Crispi wall clock with compensating pendulum
Neglect, friction, and environmental factors play a significant role in a clock’s ability to keep accurate time. By ensuring proper maintenance, placing your clock in a location free from heat and humidity, and regularly checking for adequate lubrication, you can extend its lifespan, maintain its value, and enjoy dependable performance for years to come.
It this day and age it is very common to have family scattered to the four winds. What time is it is such and such? Why not create timezone clocks? I live in Canada and I have one daughter in Calgary, Alberta, one of our mid-western provinces and one in Victoria, BC, on the west coast of Canada. We keep in touch with Skype and telephone and as I am working on my computer in the kitchen area of my home all it takes is one glance upwards to see what time it is in Calgary or Victoria.
This is my trio of clocks. The two on either side are eight inch while the centre clock has a 12 inch dial. The centre clock is a New Haven time and strike from the 1930s taken out of a decommissioned school house in Saskatchewan in the 1950s. My aim is to have three 8 inch dial clocks. Once I find another 8 inch time-only clock the New Haven will be replaced.
New Haven time and strike clock
Waterbury Arion drop octagon
I later painted three numerals
The clock on the left is a Waterbury Arion. It came to me without glazing and bezel but ordering a replacement was easy enough through a clock supplier, Perrin in Canada. While writing this blog I decided to touch-up the 7, 8, and 9 numerals. It is the quietest of the three clocks.
The one on the right is Sessions Drop Octagon. The dial face is in rough shape but I decided to leave it as-is. The clock came from a decommissioned schoolhouse in Springhill, Nova Scotia in the 1960s.
Sessions Drop Octagon
It is by far the noisiest of the three but you get used to the sound. All three will be time-only clocks, preferred if you are looking for the dedicated function of simply telling the time. Of the three my favorite is the Waterbury. Even with the “messed-up” dial face, it is the most accurate of the three and will run for 12-15 days on a single wind.
Keeping track of family all over the country is part of being a normal modern family and timezone clocks certainly help.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
DP writes, “Hello Ron: I have a clock I bought recently at an auction.The clock is from Pictou County Nova Scotia. It has Canadian Time On the glass. I live about 50 kms from Truro. I would like to take the clock over to you and find out if it is a Pequegnat clock. The clock keeps good time. It is made out of birds eye maple. It measures 29 inches high, 15.5 inches wide and 5 inches deep. My technology skills are not very good and I am not able to send you a picture. My name is DP and I would be pleased to hear from you.”
Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock
My response to DP
“Yes you are pretty close to where I am. We can meet but you can also save yourself some trouble by doing a little investigating yourself. Regarding the dimensions, are you measuring the whole clock from top to bottom. The Canadian Time is 36 inches high by 15.5 by 5 inches deep. If the entire height of yours is 29 inches you are likely missing the top piece (crown) and the bottom section or both. Most were made of quarter sawn oak. I have never seen one in Bird’s Eye maple. And the words “Canadian Time are stenciled in gold on the glass door.
Next, on the bottom part of the dial face you should find the inscription, “Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company”. If not, it is a replacement dial.
Company name under the chapter ring
If you are adventurous enough, you can unscrew the minute hand nut, take off the minute hand and pull off the hour hand underneath which is a friction fit. Next, you can unscrew the square wood panel the dial pan is mounted on. There should be 3 screws, one on top and one on either side. Once you unscrew those you can take the piece that holds the dial pan out. You can then check to see if the company name is stamped on the lower right hand side of the movement. Obviously if it says Arthur Pequegnat, that is what you have. I have included photos showing what you should see when you open it up.
Movement after taking off the dial pan.
Company name stamped on the movement
Let me know how you make out.”
DP writes back.
“Hello Ron, I am not really comfortable taking the clock apart. I did take it over to DG in BH about a week or two ago. He repairs watches and clocks. He did a repair to a thin strip or band of metal (punched a new hole through it) and then reconnected it to the movement. DP is referring to the suspension spring. When it was apart the only thing I could see written on the movement was (no jewel and I think not adjustable or unadjustable). It looks like the movement might have been replaced because there are two extra holes on the back. The dial face has been put back in place incorrectly and has nothing printed on the face. I would like to take the clock to you and just get your views and opinions on where or who might have it or any other information you can give me. I would be pleased to hear from you.”
DP, “An Arthur Pequegnat movement would never have “no jewels” or “non-adjustable”on the movement. The company name would clearly be there. What you have is what some collectors would term to be a “marriage”, that is a case with another, more modern movement. If your case is 29 inches high then something is clearly missing. If you still want me to look at it, I will. Give me a call at (phone) and we’ll meet.
Folk art version of Canadian Time
DP arrived with the clock that he won at a local auction for CDN$25. Underneath the folk art and all the modifications is, indeed, a Canadian Time Clock. What appears to be maple finish is painted Birds Eye maple; underneath is oak. The base and crown are missing; the dial is a replacement and whoever replaced it mounted the dial in the wrong position. The decals are on the outside of the glass and were added later probably the same time as the Birds eye maple finish. The pendulum bob, painted some sort of brass or gold colour, is original but the pendulum rod is a replacement with a home-made leader hook. The only thing in good shape and original is the Canadian Time reverse decal.
DP attaches the pendulum
The movement is a replacement, an Indian made reproduction time-only movement exactly like this one at Timesavers.
Found on the back of the dial pan is this inscription.
Inscription on folk art clock
REPAIRED SEPT 18, 2013
REPAIRS BY JAMES xxxxxx
12C PLEASANT ST STELLERTON NS
CLOCK AND xxxxxx CLOCKMAKER SINCE 1956
In short, it is a very modern interpretation of a classic clock. If it were my clock I would not do a thing to return it to its original condition; there are just too much things that would need to be addressed. However, it might be appealing to some people as a piece of folk art. As a piece of folk art DP should be pleased that he got a good deal.
We have a seasonal cottage that is used primarily in the summer and at times during Thanksgiving in October. While I have a number of clocks at my residence in Nova Scotia the cottage is a great place for displaying a small selection of my clocks.
Our first clock at the cottage was a Danial Dakota time and strike that we had converted to a quartz movement. The clock is from the 1960s and reflected Chinese design elements copied from American clocks at the time. It requires very little maintenance and is as accurate as one would expect. It requires a “C” cell battery to operate. It is a chiming clock with Westminster and Whittington chimes and my wife and I much prefer the Whittington chime. I still have the original mechanical movement and may someday use it in another case.
Converted from a mechanical clock
The clocks do not run during the winter but oiling once per year addresses the issue of dried pivot holes
Last summer (2016) we were travelling through an Ontario town of Halliburton and stopped by an antique shop. The owner brought in a number of clocks from Ireland, all British made. They were in very good condition though some were a bit on the pricey side. My eye was drawn to this simple but attractive Smiths Enfield time and strike Art Deco style clock. It has a chromed square bezel and Roman Numerals on a slivered background. The ornate brass coloured hands compliment the square dial face. The squared off dark oak case with half height side shoulders is in excellent condition. I placed this clock on a shelf between our kitchen and family room.
Smiths Enfield time and strike, circa, 1950
Our kitchen has a Delft style, triangle shaped front-wind 8-day time-only porcelain clock with a lever escapement similar to those found in marine movements. It is an estate auction purchase. On the dial is the name Forestville. The Forestville Clock Company of Toronto operated from 1928 to the late 1970s. Though wholly Canadian owned the company had cases made in its early days (from Kitchener, Ontario) but later imported cases and movements from Germany then France and England during the War years and Germany again, after the Second World War. The clock has a Dutch motif which reflected a popular trend in the 1950s and 1960s but also recognized Canada’s close relationship with the Dutch people since the war years.
Delft Clock from Forestville
The clocks do not run during the winter but oiling once per year addresses the issue of dried pivot holes. We also take the battery out of the quartz clock.
There is nothing like the sound of mechanical clocks at the cottage particularly on a cold, quiet night when the only other sound is the melancholic cry of the whippoorwill.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s) and of course, general comments. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
On my trip to Cuba in March of 2016 I happen to capture a number of interesting clocks. The two pictured below prompted a comment from JC.
Wm Gilbert clock found in a restarant
Malaprade Floor clock
The first two clocks are the most interesting to me. The Gilbert looks fairly standard (often called a “Store Regulator”) but I think it’s been painted black. Normally these are in oak cases, occasionally (but rarely) in walnut. The colour would have matched the interior back.
The second clock looks like a fine and expensive Jeweler’s Pinwheel Regulator. I’m wondering if you’re wrong about it being spring driven. These are normally always weight driven. The weight normally hangs behind the pendulum. Is it possible you didn’t see the weight? The movements from these are almost always Swiss made (near the Jura region of France), with pinwheel escapements. They are VERY EXPENSIVE clocks. The movement alone would fetch around 1000$. I have no idea what that circle is on the dial. I’ve seen some with inlaid marble dials, but most have enameled dials like this one. Cases can range from plain to extremely elaborate, and from 5 feet to 9-10 feet.
The name and place on the dial is the retailer where the clock was sold. It is never the manufacturer (this is typical on all French and some Swiss clocks of this type/vintage – the same is true of Comtoise clocks and French mantle clocks).
The rest of the clocks (with the exception of the 2 figure 8 wall clocks) seem to be imported German clocks from 1930 and later. These include both tall clocks and all the 400 day clocks shown. The figure 8 clocks are either American or Asian made copies (likely from Japan) from the early 1900s.
We often cruise the HiBid sites. While they may be wholly Canadian I am sure there are similar sites in the US. HiBid are a hosting service for antique online auction companies and from time to time clocks come up on estate sales.
One day in early February 2017 we were on a Nova Scotia HiBid auction site and noticed a Jauch drop octagon with a PL42 movement. I made what I thought was a reasonably good bid. We had errands to run that day so I just left the bid, got home later and realized and surprised that I had won. It was a good purchase. After running for several weeks I opened the case up and discovered its hidden secret.
Time-only Jauch movement
The clock easily runs a full 8-day cycle but it gains about 5-7 minutes at the beginning of the cycle and loses the same at the end of the cycle. A dramatic difference! A properly functioning clock is designed to run at an acceptable rate of + or- 1 minute per week but this depends on adequate power to the escapement with very little fluctuation in that power.
Scored pivots and worn barrel arbor holes are real issues for this movement. The pivots are small, a light touch with a buff stick and a minimal polish along with pegging and round broaching the holes should be the first steps in reviving this clock. Bushing work is also quite possible. The barrels are another matter. If worn, they require bushing. The cap is too thin to bush without making a thin flange or leaving the bush a bit proud and peening both sides. The barrel is narrow and it is said that they really get the wobbles when worn.
This is an inexpensive German movement but finely made and well engineered. An overhaul should result in a good long run.
I took the movement apart and discovered two things. One, it needs at least 3, perhaps 4 bushings and secondly, there is a significant gap in the barrel cap as seen in the photo below.
Barrel cap showing a wide gap caused by wear around the arbour, weak point of this movement
Front plate is removed showing going train
The real issue for me is the barrel cap. I can attempt to bush the cap but the bushing would likely not hold unless it is peened. The gap is causing an unbalance in power transmitted through the gears as a result of the wear. The soft brass barrel cap is definitely a weakness of this movement. The result is the erratic running described above and a wobble in the pendulum. I contacted a gentleman in Arizona who would be prepared to correct the wear by installing two new bushings on the gear side and cap of the barrel. The cost is 1 1/2 times the value of the clock so I have decided against that option. It is just not worth it!
1 Day Later
I installed 3 bushings. The front side of the escape wheel arbour, the front side of the second wheel and the minute shaft. I re-assembled the movement, oiled it, adjusted the pallets, reinstalled the worn barrel and have put the movement back into its case. It is now running and in the next week or two I will see what effect new bushings will have on the running of the clock. My hope is a marginal improvement given the worn barrel.
A barrel repair will have to wait until I have the proper tools.
Regular reader and contributor JC suggested a few more clock terms I thought readers and fellow horologists might find interesting.
My source for this article is the Watch and Clock Encyclopedia by Donald de Clarke, published by Bonanza Books (1984) which is still available on Amazon.
Gridiron pendulum: A pendulum consisting of alternating steels and brass rods coupled together to compensate for downward expansion so that the centre of oscillation of the pendulum remains consistent with changes in temperature, invented by John Harrison in 1725.
Gridiron pendulum on a Junghans Crispi wall clock
Broaches: To broach is to open and enlarge a hole. A Broach is a steel cutting or smoothing tool with a tapered or parallel sided edge used to cut or “finish” holes in a clock plate. Used to enlarge and then finish (smooth) a newly installed bushing on a clock plate.
A set of Swiss made smoothing (or finishing) broaches
Motion Works: The train or wheels of a clock directly connected with the hour and minute hand.
Great wheel: The teeth that form part of the barrel of the going barrel. It is also the wheel to which the mainspring is attached.
The motion works of a clock; the largest wheel on this movement is the great wheel (Pequegnat Clock Co.)
Maintaining Power: A method to maintain the driving power while the weight is being lifted or mainspring with fusee is being wound. In effect keeping the mechanism going while winding.
Weight driven movement with maintaining power, (unmarked Vienna Regulator)
Huygens Endless Rope Drive: It is a method of providing maintaining power to drive the clock while the weight was being raised. The endless cord passes over pulley A which is attached to the great wheel and supports the driving weight B, it then passes over pulley C which has a ratchet to support small weight D. As cord E is pulled down to wind the clock ratchet C turns under it’s click to raise weight B which continues to drive the clock as it supplies torque to wheel A. This ingenious system is found in some 18th century long-case clocks.
Huygens endless rope
Locking Wheel (or Count Wheel): A count wheel is the wheel that determines the number of blows to be struck in striking mechanisms.
The left wheel with notches is the count wheel
Ratchet wheel: A toothed wheel into which a click engages permitting the wheel to revolve in one direction only.
Toothed ratchet wheel and click
Cam: Usually a disk so that upon revolving it transmits movement to or exerts pressure upon a connecting unit.
Arrow showing location of a cam, the fly is located in the upper right
Fly: Often called the governor or controller of a chime or strike train. It is the last piece in a train of wheels.
The language of the clock world always amazes me. There are a plethora of other clock terms that I will be happy to explore in future blogs.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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