Tag: shelf clock

The Day I Found an Ingraham Huron Balloon Clock—and the Story That Came With It

Some time ago, I came across an ad on Facebook Marketplace for a clock owned by an older couple who lived about forty-five minutes from our home on the East Coast. When I first saw the photo, something about the clock caught my eye—it had character, a quiet dignity, and I had a feeling it might be special. I reached out to the seller through Facebook, and after a brief phone conversation, we agreed on a price that he felt was fair.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
E Ingraham Huron Circa 1878

Finding their home wasn’t straightforward. We took a few wrong turns, but eventually found our way to a modest single-wide house nestled in the woods about twenty minutes from a larger coastal town. It was the kind of home that had clearly been lived in for decades.

A man in his early seventies greeted us at the door with a polite smile tinged with sadness. As we stepped inside, he excused himself and disappeared for a moment, returning with the clock in his hands. I asked him why he had decided to sell it, especially since he mentioned it had belonged to his grandmother and had been in his family for as long as he could remember.

He paused before answering, his eyes drifting toward the window. “My wife and I have decided to go our separate ways,” he said softly. “She wants to live in town, but I can’t bring myself to leave this place. Everything I care about is here—my shop (which was larger than his house!), my tools, my memories, but we have to get rid of some stuff”.

As he spoke, it became clear that the clock was more than just an heirloom—it was a piece of his past, a witness to the life he had built in that home. Letting it go wasn’t just about making space; it was about closing a chapter.

I examined the clock carefully, noting that it was complete and in good condition. “I’ll take it,” I said with a smile. Just inside the case, I noticed a penciled marking that read “Hebb and 1944.” The seller recalled a Hebb family who once lived in the Bridgewater area of Nova Scotia, near where I purchased the clock — perhaps a clock tinkerer.

“Okay,” he replied, then hesitated for a moment before adding, “Would you happen to be interested in Elvis Presley memorabilia?”

I glanced over at my wife, who was already trying not to laugh. The question caught us both off guard—we couldn’t have been less interested in that sort of thing, but his earnestness made the moment oddly endearing.

Huron shelf clock by E. Ingraham & Co.

It is a rosewood-veneered Huron shelf clock by E. Ingraham & Co., Bristol, Connecticut. It features a paper-on-zinc dial with a round glazed door and a lower glass access panel. The Huron is one of the less commonly found Ingraham models of the period, having been manufactured briefly between 1878 and 1880. The maker’s label remains intact on the inside of the backboard. The clock has a brass, eight-day, spring-powered movement and stands 16 inches tall.

The veneers are in excellent condition, with no splitting or cracking. The clock face shows a build-up of grime, which I chose to leave as is. The base corner pieces show slight wear, but both door catches are sound. The glass is perfect, the door hinges are in excellent condition, and both the upper and lower doors still fit with precision. The pendulum retains its original lacquer and presents well. Before examining the movement, a gentle push of the pendulum suggested that something was amiss.

Once I extracted the movement from its case, it was certainly not without its issues. There was plenty of solder applied here and there—evidently, a past repairer believed that the more solder, the better. During restoration, all traces of it were carefully removed, and the movement was thoroughly cleaned and brought back to full working order.

The movement was not without its issues

I’ve often said that if the day ever comes when I’m compelled to downsize my collection, this would be one I’d keep. Not for its rarity or provenance, but because it embodies everything I admire in a clock—the craftsmanship, the quiet dignity, and the enduring beauty of something well made and lovingly preserved, and the story that became part of it.

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron
Ingraham Huron shelf clock

In the end, it’s pieces like this that remind me why I collect—not to own more clocks, but to honour the skill and spirit of those who built them, one tick at a time.

2

A Beginner’s Guide to Winding a Mechanical Clock

Sometimes, demonstrating a task is easier than explaining it. This 14-minute beginner’s guide covers the basics of winding a mechanical clock, which is perfect for those who have just purchased their first one and need guidance.

The video explains how to wind different types of antique and vintage clocks, including shelf clocks, tall case clocks, wall clocks, and mantel clocks.

How to wind a mechanical clock – a beginner’s guide

It also covers the types of winding keys used and the importance of winding all necessary points. The guide begins with a brief introduction before demonstrating the winding process on various clock styles.

I’m no expert when it comes to making videos, but I try my best. If I missed a step, please let me know in the comments. Also, if there are more how-to videos you’d like to see, feel free to share your suggestions.

Check out my other clock-related videos as well.

5

Beginner’s Guide to Choosing an Antique or Vintage Clock

Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks

Buying your first clock is an exciting journey, but it can also feel a bit daunting. In this article, I’ll share some practical tips and advice to help you choose your first clock and discuss the various types of clocks to consider.

One of the goals of this blog is to introduce antique and vintage clocks to younger generations and inspire an appreciation for these remarkable mechanical devices from the past. In today’s modern age of a throw-away culture, how many items can you think of that still function flawlessly after more than a century? It is a short list indeed!

Before we get started, let me clarify two key assumptions. First, I’m assuming you’re not purchasing your first clock with the goal of turning a profit. If profit is your motive I won’t be much help to you. Having collected clocks for many years, I can tell you that buying and selling clocks rarely yields significant financial returns. Of course, there are always exceptions.

Second, this guide focuses on mechanical clocks rather than electric, quartz, or electro-mechanical models. While some of the latter are certainly attractive, there are other resources available for learning more about these types of clocks.

An antique mechanical clock operates through a system of metal gears and levers, powered by weights or springs, wound manually, and displays the time. These clocks were essential for daily life in the past, providing reliable timekeeping that helped people manage their routines, coordinate activities, and regulate work, particularly before the advent of modern electrical or digital timekeeping devices.

Let’s explore why you would want an antique or vintage clock.

Choosing an Antique or Vintage Clock

Is the clock for decoration, an expression of your new interest in horology, or are you starting a collection? Your motivation for acquiring your first clock is important, as it involves an investment of your money.

Establishing a budget is essential to guide your decision. If your primary goal is to use the clock as a decorative piece, the condition of the case may take priority, and whether the movement works might not be a concern. However, if you want a functional clock and the one you choose is not in working condition, you’ll need to account for potential repair or restoration costs in your budget.

When considering the clock’s condition, it’s important to assess whether it’s running or in need of repair. A case that shows significant wear often indicates that the movement may also be in poor condition. Some damage can be repaired, but other types of damage may be expensive to fix, and if the clock was inexpensive to begin with, the cost of repairs may outweigh the value. An example of this is pieces of veneer missing on a clock. While small imperfections may be acceptable, large areas of missing veneer can significantly affect the clock’s appearance. Replacing large sections of veneer should be left to a professional restorer.

Miniature Ogee
The case requires new sections of veneer

Clocks with an interesting provenance may not only be more desirable to collectors but can also serve as fascinating conversation starters. Understanding who made the clock and where it was produced is crucial. A clock from a renowned manufacturer or region known for quality craftsmanship can be more valuable.

A clock with a well-documented ownership history, especially if it has been in the hands of notable individuals or has an intriguing backstory, can make it more desirable. If it was owned by a historical figure or used in a significant event, this can greatly enhance its appeal.

Look for original labels, receipts, or certificates of authenticity that confirm the clock’s origin, age, and maker.

If the clock has thorough documentation, be prepared to pay a premium price. Look for a clock with a known history of quality repairs or restorations, especially if these were done by reputable professionals.

The location and placement of the clock can influence your choice of type and size. For example, in a 600-square-foot apartment, a grandfather clock might not be the best option. A small mantel or novelty clock can be placed almost anywhere, while wall clocks don’t take up valuable floor or shelf space.

Antique and vintage mechanical clocks require periodic care and upkeep because their components are subject to wear and aging over time. The materials used in older clocks, such as metal gears, springs, and wood, can degrade or become less effective without regular maintenance. This should be taken into account when making your decision.

An emotional connection is important. You should select a clock that you genuinely connect with, as it will become a lasting part of your environment. Purchasing a clock simply because it’s inexpensive, but not to your taste, may lead to regret.

And finally, consider starting with a straightforward, reliable clock before diving into more complex or high-maintenance pieces.

Here are the Types of Clocks to Consider and Why

Mantel Clocks are compact clocks designed to sit on a mantelpiece or shelf. They often feature a strike while some might also feature a chiming mechanism such as Westminster chimes.

A mantel clock is a good entry point for beginners due to its manageable size and the many different styles and designs. In North America, popular examples come from manufacturers such as Seth Thomas, Ingraham, New Haven, Gilbert, and Pequegnat.

Wall Clocks are designed to hang on walls, ranging from simple schoolhouse styles to ornate regulator clocks. These clocks are ideal for those with limited floor space and looking for a functional piece. Look for clocks that are complete, with no missing parts, and inspect hands, glass, and the movement for any problems.

Grandfather Clocks otherwise known as Longcase Clocks, Tall Case Clocks, or Hall Clocks are tall, freestanding clocks often over six feet tall, with pendulums, often featuring intricate mechanisms and chimes. These clocks are statement pieces suitable for those with ample space.

Maintenance can be more demanding, and many of these clocks especially from the 1980s and 1990s have movements that are near the end of or at the end of their service life. A gently used tall case clock can provide many more years of service. While these clocks are undeniably charming, their sound might be a bit too loud for some individuals.

Cuckoo Clocks are typically from Germany, these whimsical clocks are known for their animated cuckoo bird and decorative carvings. These clocks are great for a touch of old country charm and fun, often appealing to families. All inexpensive ones require winding once per day and the cuckoo sound can be annoying for some. Look for an eight-day model instead.

Dave's cuckoo clock
Cuckoo clock

Ogee Clocks are classic 19th-century weight-driven clocks with a simple yet elegant design. They are an affordable entry into antique clocks and often come with a rich history. Ensure the glass and reverse-painted artwork are intact, as these are defining features. Shelf space is required as these clocks are not meant to be hung.

Most are 30-hour clocks that require winding once per day which some might regard as an annoyance if the intent is to have them running daily. Eight-day clocks are preferable since they require winding once per week. For a shelf clock, they are quite large and space could be a factor to consider.

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee

Shelf Clocks are a broader category encompassing small to medium-sized clocks that fit on shelves or desks. They are practical and versatile, with a range of styles to suit different tastes.

Fancy clocks with intricate visible designs display beautifully and can serve purely decorative purposes.

HAC mantel clock
HAC mantel clock

Anniversary Clocks feature mechanisms that can run a year or more, have glass domes, and feature a rotating pendulum. They make a striking display and serve as fascinating conversation pieces. Historically, they were often presented as wedding gifts.

Kundo standard size 400 day clock

Novelty Clocks are clocks with unique designs, animations, or themes. They add personality and character to any room often sparking conversations. They can be as small as an alarm clock and can be placed just about anywhere in a room.

Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks

Buying your first clock is a rewarding experience that combines history, craftsmanship, and personal taste. By considering factors such as your budget, the clock’s condition, provenance, and placement, you can make an informed decision and choose a piece that brings lasting enjoyment.

Remember to select a clock that resonates with you personally, as it will become a cherished part of your space. With thoughtful planning and care, your first clock can be the start of a lifelong appreciation for the art and beauty of horology.

2

Relocating A Shelf Clock To A…Well, A shelf

For years, my Seth Thomas column and cornice clock rested atop an antique radio in our living room. However, after redecorating the space with hardwood flooring in place of the carpet, the radio and clock no longer suited the updated space.

Seth Thomas column and cornice "Empire" style time and strike shelf clock
Seth Thomas column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock

I did not want to relegate the clock to storage, so I opted to find it a new spot in our home. Since most of the other rooms already had plenty of clocks, I decided to display it in my office.

This lovely Seth Thomas time and strike eight-day weight-driven column and cornice clock with hour strike features an attractive veneer case with cove molded crest, lyre movement, three-quarter columns in painted gold, and two glass doors, one with a reverse painted design, opening to the interior clock works which reveal a tin painted dial and the original printed and illustrated Seth Thomas clock makers label. It is 32″ tall, 18″ wide and 5“ deep.

The dial had some losses

The clock has one unique detail: while the lower tablet is original, the upper tablet was recreated from a photograph of hanging fruit, modified to complement the design below. Additionally, the dial, which had suffered some losses in the corners and chapter ring, was repainted.

The painted tin Roman Numeral dial has hand-decorated flower spandrels in all four corners with the centre portion of the brass lyre movement visible through the dial.

Among collectors an appropriate descriptor for this clock is “column and cornice” but it is also generally classified as a shelf clock. This particular clock features a hook on the top of its case, likely intended by a past owner for installation that way. While I have seen similar clocks mounted like this online, they were never originally designed to be hung.

However, the hook might serve an additional purpose. Given that these clocks can become top-heavy when fully wound, the hook could be an effective way to secure the clock to a wall, especially in areas where it might be easily bumped.

Building the Shelf

The first step was to build a shelf to accommodate the clock. I had some leftover 8-inch-deep pine boards from a previous project, which were ideal for this purpose. I purchased extra pine braces some time ago, and they turned out to be perfect for completing the project. I cut a piece about 22 inches long and painted it a shade of beige. The base of the clock is 18 inches leaving 2 inches on either side.

Pine board and braces

The next step was to mount the braces to the wall. Knowing the room had studs spaced 16 inches apart, I used a stud finder to locate the first stud and then measured 16 inches to find the second one.

Sixteen inches on centre

Once the braces were mounted and made level I installed the shelf using wood screws.

The clock is positioned on the shelf

Checking for the Correct Beat

Now to determine if the shelf is level and the clock is in beat. Using a Timetrax Clock Timing Machine I switched to the BAL feature to check the beat.

Timetrax microphone attached to the winding arbour

A beat adjustment was unnecessary as the clock was already leveled. If leveling were needed, it would simply involve slightly bending the crutch incrementally to find the beat. While checking the beat can easily be done by ear, it made sense to use my Timetrax device for greater precision.

Timetrax Clock Timing Machine

According to the Timetrax instruction manual If the beat is within plus or minus 20 the clock is in beat. In this case, it was almost dead on.

Seth Thomas clock mounted on a shelf (note repainted dial)

Once the beat is confirmed, the weights are replaced, the hands and dial can be reattached, and the pendulum is given a slight push.

After confirming the beat the clock was ready to be displayed in its new spot. This Seth Thomas column and cornice clock, with its exquisite veneer case and distinctive features, now takes pride of place in my office, where it brings an added touch of elegance to the room. Moreover, since the room houses many spring-driven clocks, a weight-driven clock will provide a more accurate reference for timekeeping.

I’m pleased to have found a new location for it, as it truly deserves to be on display.

A Guide to Choosing Antique and Vintage Clocks as Unique Gifts

As the holiday season approaches, the search for a unique and meaningful gift becomes crucial. Antique or vintage clocks, often overlooked, can make a delightful and “timely” present. Whether you’re knowledgeable about clocks or a novice, finding the right one requires some understanding, and I’m here to provide you with some helpful pointers and explanations.

Why Buy an Antique or Vintage Clock?

People are drawn to antique or vintage clocks for sentimental reasons, the desire to own something antique, or the allure of a unique old mechanical clock. These reasons often top the list for those considering such a purchase.

Antique, Vintage or collectible

Determining the age of a clock can be tricky but a well-informed seller can confidently provide accurate information about the clock’s age to potential buyers, ensuring a fair and transparent transaction. Moreover, a clock’s age can often be determined through a date stamp on the movement or labels, providing accurate dating information for both sellers and buyers.

Generally, anything over 100 years old is considered antique, while vintage refers to items less than 100 years old but more than 30 years old. Items younger than 30 years are often called collectibles.

A Mauthe vintage clock from the 1940s

Types of Clocks: Mechanical or Otherwise

While there is a wide variety of clocks available, this article focuses on mechanical clocks both vintage and antique. Quartz clocks are common but have limited value. Electro-mechanical and electromagnetic clocks, while intriguing, are best left to expert collectors. Electric clocks from the 1930s and 1940s might intrigue the buyer but can be difficult to maintain and a non-functional clock can be potentially dangerous to those with a limited knowledge of electrical devices.

Choosing the Right Clock and Placement

Consider the available space when selecting a clock. Mantel clocks need shelves or tables, while wall clocks come in various sizes and styles and placement is less of a challenge. Although wall clocks require minimal space, some are hesitant to puncture a wall with a nail.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian shelf or mantel clock

Grandfather clocks (otherwise known in some circles as tall case, long case, and hall clocks), particularly those with impressive craftsmanship require ample floor space and a keen appreciation from the recipient.

Scottish tall case clock
Know the recipient if you are gifting a tall case clock

Furthermore, gifting a grandfather clock to an appreciative recipient ensures that it becomes a cherished heirloom, to be passed down through generations.

Cottage clocks, alarm clocks, and novelty clocks are compact, allowing them to fit into small spaces and be placed virtually anywhere.

This Sessions cottage clock is only 9 inches tall

Working or Non-Working Clock?

Ideally, a working clock recently serviced by a professional is the best choice and has the highest value. If a functional clock is used purely for decorative purposes, it can later be sold without affecting its value.

Sessions American No. 2
Sessions American No. 2, a working clock gifted as a decoration

If the clock serves a primarily decorative purpose, non-working ones can still be considered. Clocks as decorations often add a touch of vintage charm to a space, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. They can also evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminding individuals of days gone by. In addition, antique clocks with intricate designs can be conversation starters, becoming focal points in a room and reflecting the owner’s unique style and taste.

Tips for Clock Buying:

  1. Give preference to clocks that are operational; they are typically better maintained and can be easily resold by the recipient.
  2. Explore platforms like Facebook Marketplace, eBay, or local online sale sites. Opting for local transactions is favored because it eliminates the inconvenience of shipping, and meeting the seller in person provides the buyer with the flexibility to reconsider the purchase.
  3. Common clocks such as mantel clocks from the 1930s and 1940s are affordably priced, while unique or rare pieces might come at a much higher cost. In the realm of clocks, the determining factor for pricing isn’t solely the age of the clock, whether it’s 120 years old or 50. Rarity plays a significant role in establishing the value of a clock instead.
  4. Steer clear of clocks featuring directional arrows at the winding points; many of these are mass-produced Chinese clocks that come with powerful mainsprings, posing risks if they malfunction.
  5. The clock’s manufacturer is only vital if you’re seeking an exceptionally unique piece and are willing to spend significantly; instead, concentrate on the overall quality of the clock and its visual appeal.
  6. Conducting research is crucial to making a well-informed purchase decision. Examples are online resources, realized auction sales, networking, antique store visits, and books/publications.
  7. Be wary of any alterations, as they not only impact the clock’s value but can also alter its historical and aesthetic integrity. Thoroughly understanding the clock’s originality through basic research ensures a more satisfying and meaningful purchase.
  8. Whenever feasible, examine the clock in person to prevent unexpected disappointment. During the inspection, pay attention to the clock’s condition, checking for signs of wear, damage, or repairs. Examine the clock’s movement, and listen for any unusual sounds. Assess the quality of the materials and craftsmanship, ensuring they align with the stated age and value of the clock. Confirm the presence of any original parts, as replacement parts (hands, dial face, pendulum bob, etc.) can affect its authenticity and worth. Finally, if possible, request a demonstration of the clock in action to ensure it operates smoothly and accurately.

I hope these insights help you find the perfect clock for your special someone. I want to emphasize that I am not engaged in the business of selling clocks. Although I occasionally sell clocks locally, it’s solely to manage my personal collection and not as a commercial endeavor. Please be aware that I do not have clocks available for sale.

Selecting and Gifting an antique Mechanical Clock

Any time of year is a good time to offer an antique clock as a unique gift.

Mechanical clocks take us back to simpler times, free from mobile phones, the internet, and streaming TV. They evoke nostalgia for an era gone by.

Two American wall clocks

Determining whether to gift an antique clock can be a challenge. Allow me to provide you with some valuable tips.

Observation skills are key

The first step involves careful observation skills, assessing whether or not the recipient would appreciate an antique clock.

If the person has a general interest in history or has shown appreciation for antiques in the past, they might be more inclined to appreciate an antique clock. Take note of their home’s interior design and decor style. Antique clocks can complement various decor themes, such as vintage, traditional, or rustic. If their home features elements of these styles, it’s a positive sign.

Consider whether the person has a sentimental attachment to heirlooms or family keepsakes. Antique clocks often have a rich history and can become cherished heirlooms themselves. If the recipient is known to collect items, especially vintage or historical items, they may be more likely to appreciate an antique clock as an addition to their collection.

Antique clocks often exhibit intricate craftsmanship. If the recipient has an eye for fine craftsmanship or has expressed admiration for handmade or artisan items, they may appreciate the work that went into creating an antique clock.

Listen for any comments or discussions about nostalgia for earlier times. Antique clocks can evoke a sense of nostalgia for a simpler, pre-digital era.

If the person has owned or displayed clocks before, it’s a good sign that they might enjoy receiving another clock as a gift. Consider whether the person appreciates receiving unique and thoughtful gifts rather than typical, mass-produced items.

By paying attention to these clues and considering the recipient’s preferences and interests, you can make a more informed decision about whether an antique clock would be a well-received and meaningful gift.

Mechanical clocks appeal to those who either enjoy the sound and striking of a clock or appreciate it as part of their decor. These preferences will guide your gift selection.

Here are two examples of clocks I have gifted to family members:

Schatz W3 bracket clock

My son and his partner have a German Schatz W3 bracket clock in a custom case. It is in excellent mechanical condition but because it has a floating balance escapement it is very quiet when running. It serves as the centrepiece for their buffet and hutch.

Sessions Raven clock
Sessions Raven clock

My daughter has a Sessions Raven 8-day mantel clock that rests atop a bookcase in their family room. Although they choose not to run it, they nevertheless cherish it.

Choosing the right one

If you believe the recipient would appreciate a mechanical clock as a gift, the next step is choosing the right one. There’s a wide range of options available, catering to different budgets, from basic American kitchen clocks to rare 19th-century French Boulle mantel clocks, from those that are fairly economical to higher priced items.

Let’s narrow down the choices with a strategic approach.

French Boulle clock C.1860

The following two categories can help you make the right decision when buying a clock for your loved one, friend, or business associate.

Category 1 – Recipients Who Appreciate a Running Clock:

  • Avoid non-working clocks unless you or someone you know has clock repair skills.
  • Exercise caution when considering clocks labelled as “may require adjustment,” as they frequently conceal significant issues.
  • Investing in clocks that have undergone recent servicing and come with a warranty justifies the higher price tag.
  • Give serious thought to purchasing from established and reputable clock repair retailers. They offer added assurance of quality and reliability when acquiring a mechanical clock.
  • Opting for local purchases is a better choice compared to online auction platforms like eBay, as it helps avoid elevated shipping expenses and the potential risk of receiving a damaged clock.

Most mechanical clocks are 8-day running, requiring weekly winding. Some quality 15-day and 30-day clocks exist but are not as plentiful. Avoid 1-day clocks unless the recipient enjoys daily winding. Avoid 31-day clocks, as they are frequently manufactured in China, featuring subpar movements and inexpensive cases.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models
Daniel Dakota wall clock is made in China and should be avoided as a gift

Category 2 – Recipients Who desire a Mechanical Clock as Decoration:

  • For certain individuals, the aesthetic appeal and potential for sparking conversations outweigh the clock’s functional aspects.
  • Clocks that don’t function but have appealing cases are well-suited for this situation.
  • Examine the case’s condition, recent repair work, and authenticity carefully. A poorly executed case repair will be readily noticeable.
  • Steer clear of clocks that have had their original mechanical movements replaced with quartz mechanisms. If the recipient ever decides to sell it in the future, retaining the original movement will enhance its value.
  • Removing dirt and grime from a soiled clock case can greatly enhance its visual appeal while preserving its original patina.

Types and styles of clocks to consider

  1. Grandfather Clocks (Longcase or tallcase Clocks): These tall, freestanding clocks are typically over 6 feet in height and have a pendulum mechanism enclosed in a wooden case. They are known for their elegance and often feature intricate detailing. These are large clocks that take up floor space which is an important consideration.
  2. Mantel Clocks: Designed to sit on a mantelpiece or shelf, mantel clocks are often smaller and more decorative. They can come in a wide range of styles, from ornate Rococo to sleek Art Deco designs.
  3. Shelf clocks: Designed to sit on a mantelpiece or shelf. Examples are steeple clocks, ogee clocks, kitchen clocks and cottage clocks.
  4. Wall Clocks: Wall clocks are hung on the wall and come in various shapes and sizes. Examples include the Vienna regulator clock, schoolhouse clock, and banjo clock.
  5. Bracket Clocks: These are small, bracket-mounted clocks typically found on shelves or brackets. They often have a carrying handle and are known for their portability.
  6. Carriage Clocks: Originally designed for travellers, carriage clocks are small, portable clocks with a handle. They often feature an enamel dial and a hinged protective case.
  7. French Clocks: French clock-making is renowned for its craftsmanship and artistic design. Styles include Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI, each reflecting the aesthetics of its respective period.
  8. Vienna Regulator Clocks: These wall clocks originated in Vienna, Austria, and are characterized by their long and narrow wooden cases, typically with a pendulum visible through a glass door.
  9. Art Deco Clocks: Popular during the 1920s and 1930s, Art Deco clocks feature geometric shapes, bold colours, and sleek lines. They represent the Art Deco design movement’s distinctive style.
  10. Art Nouveau Clocks: Art Nouveau clocks emphasize organic, flowing forms inspired by nature, often featuring intricate metalwork and curvilinear designs.
  11. Cuckoo Clocks: Originating from the Black Forest region in Germany, cuckoo clocks are known for their distinctive cuckoo bird call. They often have wooden carvings and a pendulum.
  12. Skeleton Clocks: These clocks have an exposed mechanism with minimal casing, showcasing the intricate gears and escapement. They are prized for their transparency and craftsmanship.
  13. Marine Chronometers: Precision timekeeping instruments used for navigation at sea, marine chronometers are often housed in a wooden box and have a gimbal system to maintain accuracy on a moving ship.
  14. Calendar Clocks: These clocks display the date, often with additional complications such as moon phases or day-of-the-week indicators.

A mechanical clock makes for a truly special gift, one that has the potential to evolve into a beloved heirloom over time. Whether it continues to keep perfect time or finds its place as a decorative piece, the sentiment behind such a gift is sure to be appreciated by the recipient so long as you assess whether the recipient would appreciate such a gift.

A clock not only signifies the passage of time and makes it a meaningful present for any occasion. Its intricate craftsmanship makes it a symbol of both utility and beauty.

So, when you choose to gift a mechanical clock, you’re not only giving a functional timepiece but also a lasting memory that can be appreciated for years to come.

Seth Thomas round top shelf clock – simplicity is its strongest suit

Ah, the days when clock companies put a little time and effort into their designs. The Seth Thomas company, in its heyday, produced many attractive clocks and this eight-day shelf clock is one of the finest examples of the 1870s.

Seth Thomas round top
Seth Thomas round top

It is a rather large round top shelf clock measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches wide at the base, and 4 inches deep. The attractive Rosewood veneered case has a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. I have seen some with clear glass but I believe the original design called for mirrored glass.

The grain is bold and striking. A sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock position of the bezel which was missing when I bought the clock in 2019 has been repaired.

Veneer missing – before the repair

And after the veneer repair.

After veneer repair

Unique stylized hands with “S” on the minute hand and “T” on the hour hand give the clock the look of distinction.

A characteristic feature of the clock is a very attractive lyre 8-day Plymouth time and strike spring-driven movement on a bell gong with alarm. It looks like it is literally stuffed into the case but once the wood dial mount is removed it reveals just enough operating space for this movement which was obviously designed to be placed in a large variety of clock cases.

Side view of the case
Top view

The movement is die stamped “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.”. It is fitted with Geneva stops (stop-works) to improve timekeeping. It is nice to see stop works on clocks since they are often missing.

The plates are held together with taper pins rather than screws. The alarm mechanism is located just below the movement and to the left with the alarm adjustment wheel on the center cannon as was common in those days. Both the alarm and the movement strike an iron bell gong. The movement is mounted on the back of the case by means of wooden blocks top and bottom.

Back panel

To remove the movement from its case the rear panel must be unscrewed.

A good label is affixed inside the case and at the top, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. The label is largely intact save for a small piece missing in the lower right corner and slight water staining on the bottom quarter.

Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful clocks in my collection.

Refreshing an Ingraham “octagon top” 30-hour shelf clock – keep or sell?

This 30-hour shelf clock (hour strike) was manufactured by American clock-maker E. Ingraham and Co. in the 1870s. There are various iterations of the name over the maker’s history but this was the one the company used from 1861 to 1880.

The clock was bought at auction in mid-March 2022 along with 3 other clocks. In this post, I will take the reader through the process of refreshing the case.

Auction photo

This is an excellent example of a tired case that needs attention. When I look at a clock case such as this I assume the movement is well worn but a pleasant surprise awaited.

The movement is in surprisingly good condition as a result of regular (somewhat) servicing over the years. It has been in the shop at least three times, 1879, 1916, and 1994 according to dates found on the back of the case and perhaps more occasions that are not recorded.

Analysis of the case and plan of action

The gold banding on the front face of the “octagon top” and the inside frame of the access door has some losses and the goal is to hide the nicks with gold artist’s paint matched to the trim. First of all, it is not a true octagon but half of one, but that is how these clocks are described.

The overall finish is in fair condition. Numerous cosmetic issues such as scratches and nicks here and there over the rosewood case are evident, but a good cleaning with soap and water followed by a fresh coat of shellac should fill in the scratches and improve things dramatically.

Auction photo showing nicks and scratches

The dial shows considerable wear after years of daily use and this is a situation where a replacement paper dial might be considered but I am always hesitant because replacement dials take a certain something away from and antique clock.

However, I am going to see what I can do by attempting to bring the numbers back with black acrylic paint while retaining some of the patina.

The moon hands look correct for the period of the clock.

As a collector who has seen a good number of these styles of clocks, I first thought the access door glass was a replacement since many clocks from the early to late 19th century had reverse painted tablets.

Because of the decorative pendulum and the bright brass bell both meant to be seen, the stylized panel that serves as the base for the dial, the total absence of any paint remnants, the glass panel with its waviness and various imperfections plus the putty-like material that is used to mount the glass to the door, the glass appears to be original to the case. A pleasant surprise!

It is always a bit of a disappointment when something is lost or changed on an antique clock especially one that is close to 150 years old and when replacement parts are difficult to source.

No doubt some of the scratches on the case, dents, etc. (not all, of course) are the result of rough handling either when transporting the item to the auction house or during its stay.

Addressing issues with the case

The very first step is a good cleaning. Cleaning a clock will generally result in the removal of some of its protective finish but it is inevitable given that it has been on the clock a long time.

Auction photo

For old American clocks I generally use traditional shellac made by combining shellac lacquer with shellac flakes. Amber Shellac adds a certain hue to the case and the cut is light enough that it dries to the touch in less than a minute which is my preference.

When there are large flat surfaces I will use a “french polish” but for this project, a broad artist’s brush is best. I apply the shellac in long strokes completing each section at a time.

The decorative black wood panel that serves as the dial mount is also shellacked allowing for small scratches to fill in very nicely.

The original paper dial is well worn and presents significant challenges as all the numbers on the dial are either partially worn off or completely erased. This was a well-used clock!

Top and bottom lines of the numerals are filled in

Using an artist’s fine-tipped brush, black multi-surface acrylic paint, and a steady hand I filled in as much as I could. The numbers around the winding arbours were the worst because I had little to work with and they were the most difficult to reproduce.

Once all the Roman numerals were completed and thoroughly dry, I used a Sharpie fine-tip “artist’s permanent marker” and a straight edge to clean up the lines. I decided not to touch up the chapter ring other than the 5-minute markers. I am not entirely happy with the number 4 on the dial but that’s as far I am going.

Closer view of the dial

As for the gold trim on the face, I did not want to mess with the patina, nor did I wish to cover the gold which would have completely taken away from the antique look. I mixed acrylic multi-surface gold paint and a very small dab of black paint for an “aged” effect and used a fine-tipped artist’s brush to carefully dab the bare areas.

Finally, the brass bezel and inner ring were given a polishing.

The clock is complete

The clock has been transformed. The dial has been rejuvenated, the movement serviced and reinstalled, the bell gong attached, the case given its many touch-ups, and the decorative pendulum is attached. Now to regulate the clock.

In the final analysis, I believe that I have struck the balance every collector and restorer seeks and that is maintaining the original patina of the clock while not taking away its antique look. It is 145 year old antique that has seen good use over the years but applying modern techniques that are minimally invasive have brought it back to life.

I have one more decision to make. I acquired this and three other clocks to sell in order to offset the cost of new equipment but now that I have seen the final result I wonder!

Chauncey Jerome 30-hour movement – two unusual issues during servicing

I was not really looking for an ogee clock to add to my collection. But there it was sitting in a lonely corner of an antique shop calling me, “buy me”; and I did.

It is probably the oldest one in my collection of 4 other ogee clocks. It was made in or about 1845. Now, being old does not necessarily make it valuable. In fact, millions of these clocks were produced and many found their way to online auction sites in recent years contributing to a huge drop in value. You can find them online for a little more than I paid for mine but they are pretty cheap nonetheless. This one was $54.

As found

The case label located on the backboard inside the clock case was printed by John Benham in 1845. Comparing the movement in this case with one found on a popular Jerome database site tells me that it is a type 1.311 Jerome movement. Jerome movements were typically marked though some, like this one, were unmarked which is not unusual.

So, the case and the movement are near enough in time to tell me that the movement is very likely original to the case. That is always a good sign as many ogee cases had worn movements replaced over the years. In some cases, there was little intertest in matching the maker of the case to the movement especially if a customer’s only wish is to have a working clock and since the movements were interchangeable it made it that much easier. Many of these clocks are over 180 years old and one can expect some subtle and not-so-subtle changes over the years.

While very attractive and running well this clock (below), a “marriage”, is an EN Welch case with a Waterbury movement. When considering the purchase of an ogee clock, if it is important to you, check that the movement and case are from the same maker though that is not an absolute guarantee they started their lives together.

EN Welch and Waterbury marriage

What is original and what has been replaced?

Typically parts that have been lost/damaged or replaced over the years include the verge, suspension spring/leader, the pendulum bob, the weights, the hands, and case parts like pulley dust caps. In some cases, the lower tablets have been removed altogether because of breakage or severe paint loss, replaced by a clear glass panel, a mirror, a photograph, or a picture (often from a discarded calendar).

The leader and suspension spring are missing. The verge appears to be a replacement, the weights look original as do the hands and pendulum bob. There is a missing top movement block that secures the movement to the backboard and that is about it.

I am reserving judgment on the frosted glass tablet; it may or may not be original. It would be pretty exciting if it were a Fenn design but I doubt it. William Fenn was one of the more prolific tablet-makers of the mid-19th century. The dabs of red paint are certainly added later.

The clock dial, likely original, is signed C. Jerome below the twelve o’clock.

Assessment of the movement

This is a typical 30-hour or one-day time and strike movement.

I found some wear and I was expecting some past repairs. There is a repair date of 1863 on the inside of the access door but I can’t make out what was done at that time.

There are two bushings installed on the front plate, the second wheel, and the hour gear. On the back, there are four replacement bushings, evidence that it has had acceptable servicing. One seldom finds replacement bushings on an ogee clock. Most movements I have come across have punch marks around the bushing holes, a common practice by past clock repairers to close elongated holes.

Type 1.311 Jerome movement

Three of the replacement bushings will have to be redone and new bushings are required for the back-plate time side main wheel and the strike side back-plate main wheel for a total of five.

The pressure washer for the time side main wheel is completely worn out. Had I not separated the wheel and ratchet for cleaning I would not have discovered the problem but it tells me that it could fail at some future point.

To the right is the pressure washer with centre worn through

I have a donor New Haven 30-hour movement that will provide the replacement washer.

The lantern pinions have some wear but are quite acceptable. One trundle is loose on the escape wheel. Rather than take it apart and re-seat the troublesome trundle, a dab of Loctite Red should fix it in place.

These are two unusual issues but not insurmountable.

A lantern pinion with a loose trundle

Because the movement was so oily and dirty I pre-cleaned the parts prior to putting them in my ultrasonic. This helps extend the life of the solution. I used a medium bristle nylon brush to clean the stubborn areas.

After cleaning and drying the parts, the pivots are polished and I was pleased to find almost no wear on any of them.

Next is the bushing work. My only concern was pushing out what remained of the bushing material in the replacement bushings after drilling. I went slowly and did not apply pressure on the cutter, letting it do its work. As I suspected the Bergeon bushings are marginally smaller but each bushing fit snugly. Although I planned on five bushings, I installed six, adding a bushing for the second wheel on the time side front plate which was a little more worn than I thought. I left the escape wheel as-is, the wear is acceptable.

Next is restringing the weights, re-assembly, and testing. All went as expected.

I have worked on a few of these movements over the years but unique issues always seem to come up. Nonetheless, they are fun to work on.

Following the movement servicing, I will move on to refreshing the case.

Using a paint roller to revive a clock dial

It might sound a little strange to use a paint roller on a clock dial. This is not just any paint roller but one specifically designed for the purpose. The candidate is a embossed dial pan for a Waterbury Wren shelf clock C.1895.

Most of the paint has been rubbed off the dial over the years which you can see in the photo below.

Should the dial be left as-is or retouched? It is an age-old clockmaker’s dilemma. We all have our views but I tend to take the position that if it is grimy and unsightly and takes away from the look of the clock it should be cleaned and retouched.

I decided to start from scratch. I knew that if I immersed the dial in my ultrasonic cleaner with the heat setting on I would risk stripping away all paint from the numbers and that is exactly what happened.

The cleaning also took off a thick layer of grime and dirt leaving a much brighter dial.

Dial as found

Hand painting is an art and a steady hand means the difference between a homemade job and one close to the original factory application. I used a multi surface water-based acrylic satin black paint, one I often use for clock dials, hands and so on.

Here is the dial just out of the ultrasonic cleaner. All paint has been released from the embossed areas. The ultrasonic solution was black and had to be discarded.

The paint roller is made out of 18 gauge wire and masking tape, specifically made for this job. I added a strip of double-sided tape to the roller to allow a rough surface so that the paint could adhere.

A homemade paint roller

The roller worked reasonably well over the embossed dial and it was certainly a lot faster than hand painting. Excess paint was removed from the dial with a Q-tip and toothpick.

Using a Q-tip to clean excess paint

I used the roller for the chapter ring as well. After rolling there were some touch-ups and an artists brush #2-0 was used for areas the roller could not reach.

Artist’s brush

I allowed the paint to dry and scraped off the excess.

Inpainting nearly complete

I am very pleased with the results. Here is a before and after shot of the dial.

Before
Movement yet to be installed

It is not factory perfect but from a reasonable viewing distance it is difficult to tell it was repainted plus, it looks much more presentable.

Now, to find a 5 1/2 inch bezel and glass to complement the dial.

A marriage of two makers, Waterbury and Seth Thomas

This clock is an antique store find not too far from where I live. It was high on a shelf and the price was not visible. I asked the shopkeeper to take it down so that I could check the price ($40) and verify that it had a mechanical movement.

Seth Thomas cabinet clock?

I opened the back panel, quickly glanced at the movement and the trademark stamp appeared to be Ansonia. I had worked on an Ansonia Syria shelf clock in the past year and it looked quite similar but it was an odd looking movement for an Ansonia. Ansonia movements generally have an arched plate, this one had a hump. No matter, I bought it.

Ansonia Syria cabinet clock

While at home I was able to examine the clock more closely.

What did I buy?

I discovered that the movement is made by the Seth Thomas Clock Co. not by Ansonia. The movement was made for about 12 years and was available from 1890 to 1902. The style of the case is also from the same period.

An exhaustive search of Seth Thomas clocks on the internet using keywords such as, shelf, parlour (parlor), cabinet, carved oak and mantel produced nothing. I then navigated to a well-known Seth Thomas database site, poured through hundreds of listings and again, zilch.

I began to realize that the case might not have been made by Seth Thomas, after all.

However, I was determined to find the maker. I searched for clocks made by other companies, starting with E.N Welch, Ansonia (because it is similar in style to the Syria), Gilbert, Sessions and finally Waterbury. When I used the term “Waterbury cabinet clock” I found it on an auction site. So, now I have a case made by a different maker than the movement.

What is a marriage?

Among clock circles it is generally accepted that if a clock has significant parts from another source, particularly the movement and put into a period correct case from a different maker, it is considered a marriage. If it has parts sourced from a number of other clocks it is a Frankenstein or Frankenclock. While this clock is not quite a Frankenclock it is certainly a marriage.

Waterbury Wren case

I am actually disappointed that this clock is a marriage

The case is a Waterbury model called the “Wren”. I found three Wren models, two with paper dials and one with the identical dial pan as my clock. It may well be that this dial pan is original to the case.

The concave brass bezel and glass are certainly more recent. When I first looked at the clock I knew that the brass bezel and glass were incorrect but that did not stop me from buying the clock. The original bezel would have been a piecrust design with flat glass. This glass bezel is from a 1930s vintage clock.

The back access door is made of plywood, a recent addition and, of course, there is no label. The original panel would have been made of solid wood and screwed to the sides of the case with a circular tin access port. The label would have been located on the outside under the port door or underneath the base,

Does the movement run?

The movement is complete with pendulum bob and ST key. It was sold as a non-running clock, but will the clock run?

While the movement was still in its case I applied mainspring oil to the tight mainspring, allowing a few minutes for penetration. I then removed the verge so that the time train would run freely, using my finger as a brake on the escape wheel. It was sluggish at first but eventually the sticky time side mainspring made several soft clunking sounds as it ran down.

You can see the very tight time-side mainspring in the next photo. Grime and built-up dirty oil over the years will seize a mainspring.

Once the mainspring was partially let down I reattached the verge and the clock would stop after a minute or so. There was definitely power going to the escape wheel but something else was amiss. It would skip a tooth or two with every rotation which told me that the pallets were too far from the escape wheel. There is an adjustment screw on an arm which allows the pallets to be moved closer (or further) to the escape wheel. I eventually found the correct distance and the clock began to run normally. At the same time I opened the crutch loop wider to allow more impulse.

This is certainly no substitute for an overhaul but a good diagnostic tool.

Meanwhile, the strike side ran perfectly.

The movement is running and keeping good time but it needs a cleaning and several wear issues addressed.

Seth Thomas 8-day time and strike movement

Next steps?

I am actually disappointed it is a marriage. Buying a clock is always a risk and if I had paid many times more for this clock I would have asked for my money back.

I am not sure what I am going to do with it but I am inclined to service it and perhaps put it on the market. If I sold it I would certainly disclose the fact that it has a period correct replacement movement from another maker.

Nevertheless, it would make an attractive clock once the case is cleaned, the movement is properly serviced and has the correct glass and bezel.

And, if I like it enough I might keep it.

HAC/HAU movement servicing

HAC movement
The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century

Bought on an online estate auction site earlier this year, servicing the movement is the subject of this post. Once the movement is serviced, the next step is to address dirt and grime on the case and see what I can do to improve the look of the dial although I am not very hopeful that I can do much to improve it.

For those unfamiliar with the HAC acronym, it stands for Hamburg American Clock Company, a well known German company acquired by Junghans in the late 1920s. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU. Kind of a strange name for a German clock company but that is how the original investors wanted it named.

I have a number of German clocks including familiar makers such as Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.

HAC clock
HAC clock circa 1900-1910

Assessment of the movement

It is a typical 14-day German time and count-wheel strike circa 1900 to 1910. It is a robust and almost industrial looking movement and perhaps made early in this series of movements. It could be the type #21 although I can find nothing to confirm it.

The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century. This movement has slightly thicker plates, no cutouts, and no extraneous holes and looks sturdy.

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement, dirty and very tarnished

It has been worked on in the past, the strike side mainspring having been replaced at some point in the clock’s life. The time side has the HAC cross arrows stamped on the mainspring and appears to be original.

HAC clock movement
HAC clock movement, no cutouts

It doesn’t look as though there were issues at the time when the mainspring was replaced, no punch marks around the pivot holes or new bushings, for example, but there are wear issues now and that is to be expected in a 100+ year old clock movement.

In total the movement required 9 bushings, 6 on the strike side and 3 on the time side; 4 on the backplate, and 5 on the front plate. A couple of pivot holes are questionable and exhibit some wear and out of an abundance of caution I bushed them and why not while I have the movement apart. As expected there is more wear on the lower parts of the trains.

The bushing work went as expected. Some of the pivots are quite small and required 2.50mm OD bushings which I don’t often use but have plenty of them in my supply.

Ultrasonic cleaning did not do much to brighten up the brass plates, but to me aesthetics is unimportant. My goal, as always, is simply to have a properly serviced movement that runs well.

Assembly and testing

The movement was assembled and oiled. Both the strike and the time side are running well. There were no particular problems setting up the strike side other than a couple of attempts setting up warning before I got it right.

HAC movement
HAC movement on the test stand

It continued to run well during the next couple of weeks.

It is a 14-day movement but I find with these German movements that winding them once per week ensures more accurate timekeeping.

Ingraham Grecian – servicing the movement

Ingraham Grecian

After having completed work on the case and dial pan of the Ingraham Grecian time and strike shelf clock it is now on to servicing the movement.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian refreshed case

Assessing the movement

The movement is in surprisingly good condition for its age. It has been serviced in the past, when, I don’t know. Here’s what I discovered during the inspection.

  • In an early servicing, 3 bushing holes were punched. Many years ago clock repairers used a punch to close pivot holes that had elongated after years of wear and it was considered an acceptable practice at that time. Not today!
  • The mainsprings and alarm spring appear to be original and the alarm mechanism showed no evidence of wear.
  • At a later point a clock repairer installed 3 brass bushings, 1 on the front plate and 2 on the backplate. 
  • Pivots had been replaced on one end of the warning wheel and one end of the third wheel time-side.
  • The thin brass strap that trips the alarm has been re-riveted.
Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian, a replaced pivot, a very good job by a past repairer

The repairs were neat and professional.

But there were problems

While there were some decent repairs, someone attempted a homemade fix and it became a non-working clock. I suppose that is to be expected from a clock that is 149 years as it passes through several hands. 

It appears that the clock was eventually passed on to someone who had little knowledge of things mechanical. It might have been simply out of beat and an attempt was made to adjust the crutch by twisting the crutch loop around the pendulum leader. I can only assume that in their attempt to access the mechanism to “fix” it, the dial and brass bezel were damaged in the process.

Without impulse the clock would run a minute and stop and would never run in that condition.

I reshaped the crutch loop and bent the crutch slightly to achieve a healthy beat and the clock began to run. 

While the clock was running I discovered a bent escape wheel tooth. It was running despite this issue, but the verge would occasionally skip the bent tooth. A bent tooth is often the direct result of transporting a clock without removing the pendulum bob.

Servicing the alarm

There is not much to the alarm mechanism. Three pins hold the 2 small plates. I doubt this alarm was used much, It was taken apart, parts cleaned in the ultrasonic, reassembled and oiled.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian, the alarm mechanism

Servicing the movement

After letting down the mainsprings and disassembling the movement the first order of business is to straighten the bent escape wheel tooth. The trick is to “draw out” the tooth out with a pair of smooth flat jawed pliers. It is important not to stretch the tooth as this will introduce other escapement issues. Unbending the tooth is a simple procedure but a disaster if things go wrong.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian, a clean movement with a small amount of wear

Next is the inspection of pivots, lantern pinions, wheel teeth, arbours, cut pinions, of which there are two in the motion works. All looked good. The gears were meshing well on both time side and the strike side.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian, checking the strike side for wear

Following the inspection is parts cleaning in the ultrasonic machine. Once the parts are dry I inspected the movement more closely for any issues I might have missed. Next is polishing the pivots.

Once the pivots are polished it is time for bushing work if required. In the case of this movement 2 are required for the front plate and 3 for the back. On the backplate, one of the bushings is the escape wheel bridge.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian, bushing the escape wheel bridge

There were two other pivot holes that were iffy and okay for now but since I am keeping the clock it will be inspected in 3 or 4 years for wear.

Reassembly comments

The third wheel on the strike side is a combined locking and pin wheel with 2 locking pins and 2 hammer pins. There is no cam, unlike many other American movements. The spaces between the pins allow for the drop lever to descend.

The fourth wheel is the warning wheel only and it is not used for locking.

Unlike later Ingraham movements that have a passing strike on the half-hour, this is an hour strike only.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian, the inside pins are for the strike hammer

The count wheel is advanced by two protruding pins on the third wheel lantern shroud, another unusual feature. It is important to ensure that the count wheel is firmly in place, not loose but not too tight, so the third wheel pins can advance the count. The stiffness can be adjusted by bending the brass clip on the count wheel.

During reassembly, the warning wheel is set about half a revolution to prepare for the strike. Also during reassembly one of the two lock pins is placed on the locking lever, the end of which has a hook. This is to permit the count lever to go into one of the deep slots.

Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian movement on the test stand

Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get it right. Usually, I must make an adjustment or two after the plates are together but I was lucky the first time. 

Ingraham
Ingraham Grecian shelf clock C.1871

When I finished servicing the movement the new hands arrived from a supplier. So, here it is with new hands attached and the movement back in the case.

The clock has been returned to its former glory. 

E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock – first look and action plan

Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo

This article is the first look at one of my latest online auction finds, an E. Ingraham & Company shelf clock known as the Grecian.

The Ingraham Clock Company operated under a number of minor name variations over the years, E. Ingraham, E & A Ingraham, the E. Ingraham Company, E. Ingraham and Company from 1844 to 1885. Later The Ingraham Company made electric clocks and wristwatches. McGraw-Edison now owns the company and quartz clocks bearing the Ingraham name are still manufactured.

Ingraham Grecian shelf clock
Ingraham Grecian shelf clock, a day after the auction purchase

Although not rare the Grecian is quite collectible. Patent dates on the label date the clock to around 1871. The only other one I have seen is at the American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol Connecticut, a mosaic maple and walnut version.

American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol Connecticut

It is a handsome clock with clean lines. The E. Ingraham Grecian 8-day time and strike shelf clock is neoclassical in design. It is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today.

It is a distinctive clock. It has a moulded Rosewood bezel, carved volutes below the dial frame (or rosettes as Ingraham called them in his patent letters), and a Rosewood veneered case. The dial frame and bezel are one section that makes up the hinged front access door. There are walnut cased versions and mosaic as well but Rosewood has a certain exotic allure. Elias Ingraham was a case designer and no doubt had a hand not only in the design but the choice of woods used for case construction.

This clock was bought at an online auction in early January 2021. From the auction photos, I expected a clock that needed work and now, after having received it, I am pleasantly surprised that will not take much to service the movement and clean the case.

General condition 

The case is Rosewood but because of the buildup of dirt and grime over the years, the grain and texture of the wood are hidden. Upon closer examination, there are some small chips of veneer missing from the corner edges of the base, not surprising given the age of the clock. The rounded top and volutes are perfect.

There is some wear on the top part of the base under the door and that is to be expected. The curved wood bezel is in very nice condition. The backboard has age-related cracks in two places but will not require a repair. There is a slight corner separation on the left side of the base but everything else is tight. The door clasp looks good.

Ingraham Grecian shelf clock
Ingraham Grecian shelf clock

The dial screws came out too easily and the screw holes are well worn. The dial has been taken off more than a few times to make adjustments. The dial is also misaligned as a result of the new screw holes. Both the minute and hour hands are incorrect. The moon hour hand is too short and the minute hand is a slender spade. Both will be replaced.

Ingraham Grecian shelf clock
Ingraham Grecian shelf clock

The painted zinc dial face, which for some reason is detached from the brass bezel, appears to be original with some flaking on the edges. There is a missing time side grommet. The alarm dial is loose, not seemingly attached to anything, and came off easily once the hands were detached. The brass bezel needs a good cleaning.

Ingraham Grecian shelf clock
Ingraham Grecian shelf clock, fair label, cast brass bell

The unique green triangular label inside the case is in fair condition with pieces missing at the lower cracked section of the backboard. I found a loose 3cm piece at the bottom of the case which can easily be glued back in place. The alarm mechanism is in excellent condition. The spring on the alarm is typically broken on these old clocks; this one is fine. I doubt if it has seen much use. The bell is cast brass and there are two strike hammers; one on the inside, which is for the alarm, and one on the outside, the hour-strike hammer.

I was told by the seller that the clock would run for a few minutes, even strike but then it stops, which tells me that nothing is broken. The crutch loop is twisted around the pendulum rod and since there is no impulse it is not surprising the clock would stop. I doubt it ran more than a few seconds.

It is a pinned movement. Later movements have screws or bolts holding the plates together. The movement might have been worked on in the past although it is hard to tell. The two lower pins look original but the top pins look like replacements. If it was worked on it was done with care. There are no tell-tale signs such as marks, scratches, and punch marks that indicate past servicing. Since the mainsprings are wound tight I won’t know the extent of wear until I take the movement apart.

I can only guess that the butchered crutch and the detached dial are the results of someone who did not know what they were doing when making an attempt to get the clock to run.

The plan of action

The case: clean all wood surfaces thoroughly with Murphy’s Soap. Cleaning will no doubt remove remnants of the old shellac and new shellac prepared in the traditional manner (flakes and alcohol) will be applied to all the exterior surfaces. The finish will then be dulled with 4X0 steel wool.

The movement: The movement will be completely disassembled and inspected for wear, and cleaned. New bushings will be installed if needed. I made some adjustments to the crutch and ran the clock for two days and it was striking correctly during that period. The mainsprings look to be in good condition and provide plenty of power. The alarm mechanism which might never have been operational, will be taken apart and cleaned. The alarm dial is a friction fit and will be tightened up once the movement is reinstalled and should work as intended. The crutch loop will be repaired.

The dial: I will leave the dial as-is despite a little paint loss on the edges. Once the dial is aligned properly these should be hidden, for the most part. The dial pan has separated from the bezel. A past tinkerer used cellophane tape to secure the dial pan to the bezel and even attempted to solder two of the tabs, poorly I might add. These are fixable. More difficult is sourcing a 2 3/4 inch moon minute hand.

Well, that’s it for now. I plan to get started fairly soon. The only thing stopping me is a Seth Thomas #2 that has stopped and needs a look-see. There will be more on the Ingraham clock later.

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – Part II

Over the summer of 2020, I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.

Ansonia Syria

It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.

This is Part II of a two-part series. My general comments and first impressions are found in Part I which you can find here.

It is an attractive clock in relatively good shape for its age. From my research, I have determined that it was made sometime in the early to mid-1890s.

Time and strike movement with an 1882 patent date

In this post, I will continue with disassembly, cleaning, general comments about the condition of the movement, and any potential trouble spots.

Dis-assembly and servicing the movement

The movement is held in the case by 4 screws. Once out of the case the first order of business is to restrain the mainsprings with mainspring C-clamps before separating the plates. Safety is paramount; those springs are powerful.

Although C-clamps are the round type in the following photo I prefer flat clamps for most American movements. Either will do but flat clamps are perfect for tight spaces.

Olie Baker spring winder
Olie Baker spring winder

After disassembly, my Olie Baker spring winder was put into action to unwind the spring, inspect it for cracks, surface rust, or any other issues.

Each mainspring is stretched out and cleaned with a Scotchbight pad and WD-40. It is carefully wiped down leaving no trace of the WD-40 and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner, you must work quickly to dry and clean the mainspring. Rust is insidious and will creep in quickly.

The mainsprings looked very good and once cleaned and carefully inspected I have no hesitation reusing them.

A mainspring is cleaned, oiled and returned to its arbour

I applied a drop of Keystone mainspring oil on each of the coils, wound the spring several times to spread the oil. Once the C-clamp is re-applied and hooked on to the arbour, the excess oil is wiped away. The clicks are in good shape, sometimes a weakness in American movements. At this point, there is nothing more to be done to the mainsprings until the movement is assembled, so, let’s put them aside.

I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last

Everything is ready for the next step

I inspected each of the wheels and pivots for wear and found everything including the lantern pinions to be in generally very good condition with one exception. There is minor wear on the flywheel lantern pinions but not enough to warrant replacement at this point.

I usually put the time and strike gears and pretty much everything else in one or two containers. When you have done many movements you learn to quickly identify the location of each component. I can take out any wheel or lever, for example, and identify its specific location. However, if you are just starting out or have not built up enough confidence I highly recommend separating the two sides. In the early days of clock servicing, that is exactly what I did.

I was curious to find that a past repairer scratched “S” (for strike) and “T” (for time) on each one of the wheels according to their location. I understand why but esthetically it does not look good. However, marking the mainspring arbours came in handy. I make it a point to return each mainspring on the arbour they came from. In most cases, the mainsprings are the same length and thickness but every now and then I come across two different sizes. Better to be safe than sorry. That aside the movement appears to be in good condition.

A bushing is marked for replacement

Once the parts are cleaned and dried and the pivot holes are pegged it is on to the next step, pivot polishing. I use a #11 Emory board to polish pivots. I secure each of the wheels in a 3-jaw chuck on my Taig metal lathe and move the Emory boards in an up and down motion to polish the pivots.

Taig lathe at its slowest speed setting

Following the polishing, it is on to any bushing work that may be needed. In the case of this movement, two bushings were needed, the second wheel, front plate and the fourth wheel backplate. Here, a new Bergeon brass bushing is pushed into the bottom plate.

New Bergeon bushing. Notice the fixed lifting lever, lower left

Movement Re-assembly

And now for re-assembly and testing.

Since the lifting lever is attached to the bottom plate and is otherwise immoveable the count lever is the only component that has to be put in its correct location.

I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last.

All is ready for the top plate

Once the time side wheels and the hour gear are in place I attach the third screw and then work the wheels and levers into place on the strike side. Once everything is in place I tighten all the screws. A pivot locator is your best friend when re-assembling any movement.

Pivot locator

On the first attempt, I was not able to synch the strike side locking wheel (sometimes you get lucky the first time) but I mounted the movement on the test stand overnight to check out the time side and the next day it was running as expected. The locking wheel pin needs to be adjusted but that can wait till tomorrow.

One issue raised its head after re-assembly. The strike side gears were not moving at all. I tested each gear and found the flywheel (governor) was sluggish and had no end shake. It freed up if the nut nearest the flywheel was loose enough. The reason. A past repairer installed a bushing that was too tall for the plate. End shake allows freedom of the movement when the plates are screwed tightly down. I filed down the protruding bushing on the inside of the plate and the strike side then ran smoothly.

On the test stand

Next day

Now to open up the top part of the strike side to reposition the locking wheel. Safety first. I restrain the mainsprings just in case the whole thing explodes. I re-positioned the stop pin so that it is resting on the stop lever and presto, everything is working as it should.

I would like to refresh the case but the owner left strict instructions to leave it as-is.

Canada Clock Co. – a frustrating movement

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking
In light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19

Original time and strike 30 hour movement
Original time and strike 30 hour movement

The movement in this Canada Clock Co. time and (hour) strike cottage clock from the late 1880s is a mess but fixable. Some past repairs are acceptable while other leave a lot to be desired.

I’ll begin with the issues. “Repaired” mainsprings, nuts on a copper wire fashioned as a gong hammer and string “helping” the helper springs are things you really don’t want to see on a movement. The time side runs reasonably well but the strike side does not function, likely the result of fiddling with levers too many times.

clever, but dangerosu way of repairing the mainspring

The second mainspring, another “iffy” repair

Home-made copper wire and two nuts serve as the gong

String used to connect a broken helper spring

In the clock business you must always expect the unexpected. While I awaited parts, I went about cleaning the parts and bushing work .

This is perhaps the most frustrating 30-hour movement I have ever worked on

The parts arrived and included a new gong hammer, two new mainsprings and brass wire for new helper springs.

New 30 hour mainspring

New hammer gong and lever with helper springs installed

I began by installing the new hammer. Using my mini lathe I drilled a new access hole in the hammer arbour. I measured the diameter of the hammer rod and used a HSS bit to drill through the centre of the arbour. It was a reasonably good fit but to ensure a permanent hold I applied a drop of thread-locker.

The levers look like a twisting mess but there is a logic to the arrangement

This is the first 30-hour shelf clock I have worked on without a discernible warning action and it made for tricky lever positioning. Perhaps there is warning but I just could not see it. Though the levers look like a twisted mess there must be some logic to the arrangement.

The above photo shows the left side lifting lever that must be precisely adjusted and curved for the centre cam to push the drop lever over the count wheel cam to actuate the strike. The count lever blade must also line up exactly with the centre of the count wheel and precisely in the middle of the deep slot. As far as I can determine the lifting lever is the only one of the two levers that require a helper spring but I will know more after further testing.

All in all, this is one of the most frustrating 30-hour movements I have ever worked on. The movement was taken apart several times for various adjustments. I worked at for a while, left it, thought about the next steps but despite my best efforts, that strike side continues to elude me. The time side, however, works perfectly.

Some day I will have it working but for now it is on display.

Plate clock movement – simple but finicky

In light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19

German-made time-only plate clock movement

Small shelf clocks of the 1930s from BlackForest Clock Co. of Toronto shared a simple German-made time-only movement across the line. The movement has tiny wheels and pivots plus a clever twisting pendulum rate adjuster.

Continue reading “Plate clock movement – simple but finicky” →

Session Electric clock model 3W – refinishing the case

Finish almost completely gone
In light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19

The only exception to my collection of mechanical clocks is this vintage Sessions electric auto-start table clock, model 3W, made by the Sessions Clock Co. Forestville, Connecticut in 1934 and sold throughout Canada (Canadian Standards Approval sticker on the back).

I wrote about this clock at the beginning of this year (2020) and have time to focus on the case.

Sessions 3W electric table clock
Sessions 3W electric table or shelf clock

From the front, it doesn’t look too bad but the side view reveals much of the finish has worn off over the years

On the back, it states that it consumes 2.5 watts of electricity. I suppose the manufacturer could not call it model 2.5. it was a very affordable clock in its day and available almost anywhere.

At 4 1/2 inches tall and 8 1/4 inches wide it would fit on any countertop, bookcase, desk or bedside table though it does not have an alarm. It is time-only with an Arabic dial and a sweep second hand. Having a sweep second-hand means that at a glance you can see that the clock is running. There is only one control in the rear, a spring-loaded push-and-twist-in knob to adjust the time.

Continue reading “Session Electric clock model 3W – refinishing the case” →

Canada Clock Co. Hamilton Cottage Extra – dial in-painting

Back label in good condition for the age of the clock

While waiting for movement parts I continued to work on the case of this antique Canadian cottage clock from the mid 1880s. The dial needs attention and in this article I will describe the procedures for in-painting the numerals and decorative elements.

Decorative hand-painted antique dials need attention from time to time. Through environment and use they become victims of wear and neglect. Stabilizing and restoring dials maintains the value of the clock. In-painting involves filling areas of loss, cleaning, colour matching, repairing graphics and decorative art work.

The Canada Clock Co.

The Canada Clock Company in its three iterations made clocks in Ontario, Canada between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, the Hamilton Clock Co. and then Canada Clock Co. (redux) struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. Ultimately their efforts failed. Nonetheless, there are plenty of fine examples that have survived to this day.

I found this interesting example in an antique shop in downtown Truro, Nova Scotia. The model is called Hamilton Cottage Extra.

First look

This is the dial when I first saw it. It is unsightly and distracting. Severe flaking over a good portion of the dial surface plus an attempt to repaint the numbers by a past owner presented a challenge for restoration.

Continue reading “Canada Clock Co. Hamilton Cottage Extra – dial in-painting” →

E N Welch Cottage Extra servicing Part II – cleaning, bushing and testing

E N Welch 8-day cottage clock
E N Welch 8-day cottage clock

This rather plain, box-like 8-day hour strike Rosewood veneered shelf clock is up for servicing. This is Part II of a two-part series. Go to Part I to read my notes and observations while disassembling the movement and the initial steps required to bring the clock to running condition.

The movement is in reasonably good condition but not without issues. It was running prior to cleaning (though not a full 8-day cycle) so I did not expect any further running issues after servicing and my principal goal was that it would run the full 8-day cycle.

I always take a number of photographs when I disassemble a movement. It is much easier than making diagrams and notes and best for future reference particularly when photos are archived.

Continue reading “E N Welch Cottage Extra servicing Part II – cleaning, bushing and testing” →

A veneer repair can make a difference on a Seth Thomas shelf clock

A small piece of veneer is missing from the bezel of this Seth Thomas shelf clock

Among the most respected and prolific American clockmakers is the Seth Thomas Clock Co. of America. Every collector I know has at least one Seth Thomas clock in their collection.

My modest collection consists of six Seth Thomas clocks representing several styles, all unique and from the period 1865 to 1930.

This is a Seth Thomas time and hour strike large round top (model name or number unknown) made in the 1870s. For first impressions of this clock, go here.

Seth Thomas round top shelf clock, veneer missing top left of the door frame

This shelf clock was purchased at the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors conference in Springfield Ma. in June of 2019.

The clock case is in such remarkable condition it would be a shame to ignore that one small blemish and once you see the missing veneer the eye is always drawn to it

The clock measures 15 inches in height, 10 inches wide at the base and 4 inches deep. The attractive Rosewood veneered case has a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. The grain of the Brazilian Rosewood is bold and nicely textured. However, a sliver of the veneer is missing between the 9 and 12 o’clock position of the dial bezel which, in my view, is repairable. My wife did not notice this until I pointed it out.

A previous owner attempted to hide the missing veneer by tinting the exposed area.

Continue reading “A veneer repair can make a difference on a Seth Thomas shelf clock” →

Sessions electric table clock, model 3W

Back of clock showing patent dates, CSA decal, adjustment knob and cord

Sessions 3W electric table clock
Sessions 3W electric table clock

Though my collection consists of mechanical clocks exclusively, now there is an exception, a vintage Sessions electric table clock, model 3W with sweep second hand, made, of course, by the Sessions Clock Co. Forestville, Connecticut in 1936 and sold in Canada (a Canadian Standards Approval sticker is on the back).

Also on the back, it states that it consumes 2.5 watts, They couldn’t call it model 2.5! It was probably a very affordable clock in its day and available almost anywhere.

At 4 1/2 inches tall and 8 1/4 inches wide, it would fit on any countertop, bookcase etc. although because it lacks an alarm it would not be a bedside table clock. There is only one control in the rear, a push-and-twist-in knob that sets the time. Pretty simple!

Back of clock showing patent dates, CSA decal, adjustment knob and cord
Back of clock showing patent dates, CSA decal, adjustment knob and cord

It arrived with a missing plug, a detached minute hand and a finish that was almost completely worn off but the convex glass, face, brass bezel and motor are all in very good condition.

Continue reading “Sessions electric table clock, model 3W” →

Is it a Jerome & Co. clock or something else entirely?

This interesting Rosewood veneered round top, mirrored tablet shelf clock appears to be a Jerome in name only. It is not a fake or marriage but a curious product of early to mid-1870s marketing.

But first, a little Jerome history.

Jerome & Co. shelf clock

One might be tempted to assume that this clock is associated with Chauncey Jerome, one of America’s most noted clockmakers who died in 1868.

Chauncey was well out of the clock business at the time of his death which poses two possibilities; 1) the Jerome in this instance may be Samuel B. Jerome of New Haven, Connecticut or 2) it is the New Haven Clock Company that was selling clocks using the trade name Jerome & Co. It would seem that New Haven and S.B. Jerome would be in conflict with each other. It’s all a bit confusing and perhaps more research is need to find those answers. In any event the Jerome name had strong marketing power.

Continue reading “Is it a Jerome & Co. clock or something else entirely?” →

Blackforest clocks – I must be a sucker for these things

Blackforest clock movement

Your first thought might be the Blackforest region of Germany and there is, indeed, a close relationship to that region to a small clock company that operated many years ago in Toronto, Ontario (Canada).

Blackforest is (or was) a well-known Canadian clock company. The Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto, Ontario was founded by Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928. Both clock movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada.

Blackforest shelf clock from 1937, the year of the Royal Tour

Their son Ed Stossel started working part time with his parents’ company in the 1930s, and later became a full-time employee in the late 1940s.

My first Blackforest shelf clock

Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street East factory (Toronto). Initially, imported mantel clock and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener, but later the complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany.

It is a one train time-only movement with tiny wheels and a unique twisting pendulum rate adjustment

The arrangement with suppliers was interrupted by the Second World War, which also led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941. During the war years this company imported its clock movements from England, the United States, and even France. However, beginning in the 1950s German factories again became the source of movements, with Mauthe being a major supplier. Sadly, the company did not survive much past the late 1970s.

Continue reading “Blackforest clocks – I must be a sucker for these things” →

Tick Talk Tuesday #23 – Forestville clock with electromechanical movement

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile. I offer my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

Not the most attractive clock in the world but a curiosity nonetheless. It is a mechanical clock but it is not wound in the conventional manner.

Continue reading “Tick Talk Tuesday #23 – Forestville clock with electromechanical movement” →

Website Powered by WordPress.com.

Up ↑