Every old clock has a story to tell — where it came from, who owned it, and the moments in time it quietly witnessed. Unfortunately, as clocks are sold, traded, or passed down, those stories often get lost along the way. The clock may keep ticking, but the people and places behind it fade into mystery. Every so often, though, one comes along with its story still intact, and that’s always special — it connects you not just to the clock, but to the lives that once revolved around it.
The clock I’m about to write about came with a story; in fact, it came in pieces, and that’s where the adventure begins. Piecing it back together wasn’t just a repair job; it was a bit of detective work, trying to uncover what happened to it and how repairs were addressed along the way. Every screw, every bit of wear, had something to say — and that’s what makes this hobby so fascinating.
One of the most remarkable clocks in my collection is a Junghans Crispi wall clock that survived the 1917 Halifax Explosion. I know this because the previous owner told me their family had kept it for more than a century, passing it down from one generation to the next. When it finally came to me, it wasn’t much to look at — just a box of parts and fragments of what once had been. After all those years, I suspect the family decided it was time to let it go, perhaps hoping someone would bring it back to life.
And that’s exactly what I set out to do. Piece by piece, gear by gear, I restored the Crispi to its former dignity. During the restoration process, I discovered that not everything about the clock was original. Most of the case components had survived — including the top crown, crown base, and bottom section, finials, beat plate, many case decorations, the movement, dial and hands, and pendulum — but the frame had been rebuilt. I knew it immediately when I observed Robertson screwson the backboard.
A catalog image from the Junghans website was extremely helpful
The frame was skillfully and carefully crafted from solid oak, suggesting that when the clock fell from the wall during the Halifax Explosion, the original frame must have shattered beyond repair. Despite the excellent woodworking skills, the previous owner knew very little about clock repair, so it was left as an incomplete project and sat in a box for decades, gathering a thick blanket of dust and grime.
A box of parts
Restoration included new glass panels, re-staining the case, sourcing a few case parts, and servicing the movement.
Junghans Crispi dial face and hands
When the case was restored and the movement was finally ticking again, I sent a photo of the finished clock to the family who had sold it. They never replied, and I can only imagine they felt a pang of seller’s remorse seeing it whole and beautiful once more.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
Even now, every time I walk past it, I can’t help but picture that December morning in 1917 — the moment when the blast shook the city and sent the clock crashing from its wall in a small North Halifax home. It must have lain broken for decades, silent witness to one of the darkest days in Canadian history. Today, it keeps perfect time once again, a survivor with a story that still speaks through its steady, patient tick.
If you’ve been around antique or vintage clocks for any length of time, as I have, you’ve probably heard a few “truths” that get passed along like family recipes. Some have a sprinkle of fact in them, others are pure folklore, and a few can actually cause more harm than good. So, let’s sit down, pour a cup of coffee on this fine Monday morning, and bust a few of the most common myths I hear all the time.
Myth #1 – OverwindingA Clock
Let’s start with the big one: the infamous “over-winding” myth. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard, “It was running fine until I over-wound it!” Here’s the reality — you can’t hurt a healthy clock just by winding it all the way. If it stops when fully wound, the culprit is likely dried oil, dirt, or worn parts. Old, dried-up oil can turn into a sticky glue that causes the mainspring coils to cling to each other, thereby stopping a clock.
When I bring home an old spring-wound clock, the very first thing I do is let the springs down completely, give them just a small wind, and then see if the movement runs. If it does, that’s my cue that the springs need a proper cleaning and lubrication, right along with the rest of the movement.
Myth #2 – More Oil Is Better
Then there’s the advice some give to oil a clock every single year. I get it — we want our clocks to run smoothly. But adding fresh oil without cleaning first is like pouring new motor oil into an engine without changing the filter. You’re just mixing clean oil with grime and making an abrasive paste that speeds up wear. Most clocks are perfectly happy with a proper cleaning and oiling every four to five years. The only exception is that, after an inspection at the two-year mark, if it’s clear the pivots are dry and there is no residue around the pivot holes, a light oiling is a prudent step, provided only a small amount of clock oil is applied.
Myth #3 – A pendulum Clock “Adjusted for level” Will Work On Any Surface
Placement is another overlooked detail. I’ve seen pendulum clocks happily ticking away on a sturdy wall, and I’ve seen others struggle just because they’re sitting on a wobbly shelf. Uneven or unstable surfaces throw the clock out of beat and mess with its timing.
When someone says a pendulum clock was “adjusted for level,” it means that during servicing, the clock was placed on a level surface and its beat was adjusted accordingly. If the clock is later moved to an uneven or non-level surface, the beat will need to be readjusted to match the new position.
Get a clock with a floating balance escapement; it will work nicely on just about any uneven surface.
It is easy to place a mantel clock with afloating balance
Myth # 4 – A loud Ticking Clock Is An Unhealthy Clock
And while we’re on the topic of how a clock sounds — louder doesn’t always mean healthier. A good clock doesn’t need to shout; an even, crisp tick is a much better sign than a booming one.
However, keep in mind that some clocks are loud because of case acoustics, or they are located in areas where the sound is amplified, a hallway or a small room with hard surfaces, perhaps. Some surfaces can even act like acoustic amplifiers.
Arthur Pequegant Brandon wall clock, a loud ticker
I also believe that the type of escapement is a factor. Due to their mechanics, recoil escapements are always louder than all others. I have an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon wall clock with a recoil escapement in a room with six other clocks — and which one is the loudest? The Brandon, of course! It’s almost as if it’s saying, “Look at me, I’m the loudest in this room.”
Myth # 5 – WD-40 Works Well As A lubricant
One myth that makes clock repairers wince? WD-40. Yes, it might make a sticky clock run for a little while. But it also strips away proper lubrication and leaves a sticky film that attracts dust like a magnet. It’s the short-term fix that leads to long-term headaches.
What does the WD in WD-40 stand for? WD in WD-40 stands for “Water Displacement.” The product was originally designed to repel water and prevent rust, and the “40” refers to it being the 40th formula the chemists tried before they found one that worked effectively. Who knew?
Now, please don’t tell me it worked for you!
Myth # 6 – The Older the Clock, The More Valuable It Is
And while we’re setting the record straight, let’s talk value. Not every old clock is a gold mine. Age is only part of the story — rarity, maker, originality, and condition matter much more. Old is not gold, as they say. An 1850 Ogee clock might have stood the test of time, but it was made in the thousands, so it’s actually not all that rare.
George H Clark 30-hour Ogee shelf clock, circa 1850, for a ridiculously low price at auction
Of course, there are always exceptions. Well-preserved French clocks, such as a Louis XIV cartel clock of the 17th century, prized for their exquisite craftsmanship, ornate gilt bronze (ormolu) cases, and fine enamel dials, can be quite valuable.
However, many are often surprised to find out that their 100-plus-year-old clock is worth next to nothing.
Myth # 7 – Don’t Assume Black Forest Means “Made in Germany“
Also, don’t assume the words “Black Forest” mean German-made. Some Canadian and American makers used the name simply because it sounded exotic and marketable. For example, the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (which became the Forestville Clock Company in 1941) produced reliable clocks for the home. While the cases were made in Canada, the movements were sourced from England, France, and, more typically, Germany.
Myth # 8 – It’s Running Fine, So It Doesn’t Need A Service
Another one I hear often: “It’s running fine, so it doesn’t need service.” The truth? Even a clock that’s keeping time can be quietly wearing itself out if it’s running on dry bushings or worn pivots. A thorough inspection should reveal any issues with the clock’s movement.
Myth # 9 – An Antique Clock Should Always Look “Like New”
And please, don’t feel you have to polish away every bit of patina. That gentle wear tells the story of your clock’s journey through the decades.
When we think of antiques, there’s often a temptation to restore them until they look spotless and brand new. But with antique clocks, that shiny, polished look isn’t always the goal, and here’s why.
Patina is the natural aging and mellowing of a clock’s surfaces over time. It’s the soft glow on wood, the subtle tarnish on brass, and the gentle wear marks that tell a story. This “aged finish” is like a fingerprint of the clock’s life, showing decades, sometimes centuries, of use, handling, and care.
Stripping away that patina by over-polishing or refinishing can actually damage the clock’s historical value. Collectors and experts often prize original finishes because they preserve the clock’s authenticity and character. A well-preserved patina connects us directly to the past, making the clock not just a timekeeper but a piece of living history.
Having said all that, I’ll admit I’m certainly guilty of refinishing the odd old clock now and then. After all, I keep many of them for my personal collection, and refinishing is a great way to learn new restoration techniques.
It also allows me to bring out the original beauty that may have been hidden under years of dirt and wear, which I believe is a good thing in certain situations. Plus, sometimes a carefully done refinishing can help stabilize fragile wood or finishes, ensuring the clock can be enjoyed for many more years.
And I will throw in two bonus myths.
Bonus Myth #1 – Serial Numbers Always Tell A Clock’s Date of Manufacture
Lastly, serial numbers. While they can sometimes pinpoint a clock’s date of manufacture, this only works for certain makers with complete records. Unless you can match the serial number to a verified database or understand the dating system the maker used during production, it’s merely an educated guess as to when the clock was made.
Clock company catalogs are an excellent resource for dating an antique clock—if you can find them! For example, if you have a clock made by Junghans of Germany, they offer an excellent catalog archive on their website.
Many of the serial number charts floating around online are best taken as educated guesses, not hard facts.
That said, many movements have no numerical markings beyond the trademark.
Bonus Myth #2 – A Quick Bath Is All A Movement Needs To Run Properly
One common myth I come across is that you can clean a clock simply by dunking the whole movement into a cleaning solution without taking it apart first. It sounds like a quick fix, but in reality, this can cause more harm than good. Clock movements are made up of delicate parts that need to be carefully disassembled, cleaned individually, and then properly lubricated.
Dunking the entire mechanism risks damaging pivots, bushings, and other components, not to mention leaving grime trapped in places you can’t see or reach. Proper cleaning takes time and patience, but it’s the only way to ensure your clock runs smoothly.
Duncan Swish was NOT a famous clockmaker!
At the end of the day, part of the joy of collecting clocks is hearing the stories — and sometimes, debunking them. Myths may be fun to repeat, but knowing the truth will help you keep your clocks in good health and their history intact. After all, a well-cared-for clock doesn’t just tell the time… it tells its own story.
If you know of any other clock myths or stories that deserve a closer look, I’d love to hear them—drop a comment below and let’s keep the conversation ticking!
In the winter of 2017, I took on the restoration of a Junghans Crispi wall clock, made in Schwenningen, Germany. Built in the Vienna Regulator style, the clock came to me as a box of parts—an exciting challenge, especially once I learned of its remarkable history.
This clock survived the Halifax Explosion on December 6, 1917. I discovered it through an online listing and was immediately intrigued. While I wasn’t sure at first how far I’d go, I soon committed to restoring it to its full 19th-century glory.
Most of the clock is original: the movement, pendulum, coil gong, case crown, backboard, columns, and decorative trim. The front frame had been rebuilt about 30 years ago using modern materials. Though not fully authentic, the work was done with care and is largely hidden. I had no issue keeping it intact.
To complete the restoration, I replaced two small decorative trim pieces using birch and my vintage router, matching the originals as closely as possible. The result blended in beautifully.
The design reflects a time of grand ornamentation and eclectic influence, not its place of manufacture.
Was the effort worth it? Absolutely. The clock is now fully restored and running beautifully. Its resonant chime fills the house, and its unique presence always draws attention. More than a timepiece, it’s a piece of history and a cherished family heirloom.
When was the Clock Made?
I always wanted to determine the exact date of the clock, and when I first received it, I guessed it was made around 1900. While on the NAWCC forum site, someone posted an image from a Junghans catalog and suggested the clock was made in 1899. That seemed plausible, and I was satisfied it was made then.
1893 catalog1894 catalog1898 catalog
More recently, while browsing the historical index on the Junghans website, I discovered catalog images dating as far back as 1893, with listings for 1893, 1894, and 1898. It appears the clock was last produced in 1898.
There are subtle design differences between the 1893 and 1898 versions. The 1898 model features simpler clock hands, a beat plate, and longer crown finials. The pendulum design is also slightly different. Otherwise, the two versions look nearly identical. Based on these design changes, I believe my clock was made in either 1897 or 1898.
Final Thoughts
Researching your clock is one of the most rewarding parts of restoration. It deepens your connection to the clock and often uncovers fascinating history you might otherwise miss. In my case, exploring online forums and archival catalogs helped me more accurately date the Junghans Crispi and appreciate its evolving design. Manufacturer archives, collector communities, and historical indexes are invaluable tools; don’t overlook them. Every clock has a story, and with a bit of digging, you might be surprised by what you find.
Back in 2017, I took on the restoration of a Junghans Crispi wall clock—a project that began with enthusiasm but has since tested my patience more than once. While the case restoration went smoothly, the movement has been another story. Despite professional servicing, bushing work, and later my own repair attempts, the strike side has never been entirely reliable.
Junghans Crispi wall clock, circa 1899
Over the years, the clock ran well for a while, then faltered, especially in the strike train. A broken lever spring, a bent arbor, erratic striking, and a few close calls with delicate repairs have all played a part. In late 2024, the clock began stalling just before the warning phase, prompting me to extract the movement from its case to determine the cause of the stoppage.
Now, in Spring 2025, I’ve returned to the movement with a fresh perspective. The time side still runs fine, but the strike side remains unreliable. Based on my experience with similar movements, I suspect a combination of issues: a weak strike mainspring, one or more bent pivots, and poor alignment between the paddle and star wheel.
Junghans movement with the rear plate removed
In this post, I’ll walk through the next phase of troubleshooting—cleaning the movement, inspecting the spring, inspecting pivots, and adjusting the star wheel—to see if this clock, stubborn as it is, can finally be brought into reliable service.
Junghans movement showing hammer and suspension components
The first part of this two-part series can be found here.
Minor issues, But Nothing Too Troubling
After having disassembled the movement, cleaning it thoroughly, and inspecting for pivot and bushing wear as well as the possibility of a broken lever spring and a bent pivot, I am now satisfied that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the movement.
I assembled it and ran the time side for several days. The time train ran smoothly. I then wound the strike side and discovered two issues. One, the stop wheel was not in the correct position. For warning to take place, it should rotate about half a turn, which will set up the strike. The locking pin should be in the 10 to 12 o’clock position. The photo below shows it in the 2 o’clock position.
The locking pin is at the 2 o’clock position when it should be between the 10 and 12 o’clock positions
To make this adjustment, there is no need to take the movement apart; simply loosen the movement nut nearest the fan as well as slightly loosen the nut on the time side. Of course, if in the process of testing the strike side, it is important to double-check that both mainsprings are let down before opening up the plate. Once the fly and the locking wheel are free, they can be positioned correctly. The locking point is also determined by the cam, and the lever must be in its slot while the adjustments are taking place.
The Strike Hammer Tail
The other issue is the strike hammer tail.
Once reassembled, I also discovered that the hammer tail was resting on one of the star points. At rest, the strike paddle must sit between two star points. When the hammer tail rests on a star point, it impedes the action of the strike train. The hammer tail must be clear of the lifting star at the end of each strike sequence.
Hammer tail is resting on one of the stars of the star wheel, the lever spring on the hammer arbour is shown
I believe I have found the problem with the strike side. However, there are two more adjustments that are needed before I put the movement on a test stand. One, the hammer lever spring is not providing any tension. I know that if I risk bending it, it will snap, but I will take that chance. I have repaired lever springs in the past, and it should be an easy fix if I break it. The other issue is a loose click on the strike side, which will require completely disassembling the movement to access the rivet from the inside. Once these two items are attended to, I can test the movement.
It’s still a work in progress, but I feel I’m very close to achieving a successful resolution to issues regarding the movement.
I have never been completely happy with how the movement runs in this Junghans Crispi wall clock. When I got the clock in 2017, I jumped right into restoring the case because it was an interesting challenge to put the clock together from a bunch of parts.
Junghans wall clock, circa 1899, model – Crispi
Now, eight years later, the clock continues to disappoint. The case remains in great shape, but the movement has been a consistent letdown.
Movement as found, about as dirty as it gets
Let’s take a step back in time.
Winter2017
After completing the work on the case, I turned my attention to the movement. During the disassembly and reassembly process, I accidentally broke not only the strike paddle but also a retention spring. In 2017, my skills weren’t advanced enough to repair the paddle and retaining spring myself, so I had the movement professionally serviced.
Broken strike paddle
During its 2017 service, the paddle was repaired and a new spring was installed. In addition, the movement had received extensive bushing work: six bushings on the front plate and six on the rear.
Three months later, I picked up the clock and hung it on my dining room wall. It ran perfectly for over two and a half years.
Spring2020
For some undetermined reason, the strike became erratic—it would strike incorrectly, fail to strike at all or strike incessantly until the mainspring ran down.
I had a number of other clock projects on the go so I kept the time side going and left it on the wall until later that year.
December 2020
In December, I disassembled the movement and discovered a slightly bent arbor on the strike side cam wheel. All other pivots were straight, and there were no noticeably worn pivot holes—everything else appeared to be in good condition.
I did notice a small amount of dirty oil around many of the pivots. While I was initially a bit surprised, it’s not entirely unusual after more than two years of regular operation.
Unfortunately, disaster struck again. While manipulating the plates, I snapped the paddle arbor retention spring—again! This time, however, I was able to repair it myself.
There was just enough of the original spring left to reuse. The wire is very thin (0.5 mm), extremely brittle, and breaks easily under even light pressure. Using a micro drill with a 0.5 mm HSS bit, I carefully enlarged the existing hole in the plate, reinstalled the spring, and secured it with Threadlocker Red to bond it firmly in place.
The movement was reassembled and tested. After the testing period the movement was returned to its case and ran well until about 6 months ago.
Fall 2024
While the time side was running well, the erratic striking returned, and after a few weeks, the clock began stopping just before the warning phase. I wound both the time and strike sides again to replicate the problem, and each time it stopped at the warning point. Feeling frustrated, I left the clock on the wall, wound only the time side, and still it stopped. Since I had other projects to tend to, I decided to leave this one on the back burner for a while.
The movement on a test stand
Spring 2025
Since I was free of immediate projects, I removed the movement from its case and placed it on the test stand. As expected, the time side ran fine. It was serviced not so long ago. For the last couple of months, however, it has been striking erratically or not at all. It enters warning without issue, but seems to almost stall during the striking process. I want to address this issue, but I also want to disassemble the movement to clean up both the pivots and the bushing holes, as the oil is dirtier than I expected.
Judging from similar movements I’ve worked on, I believe there are three issues at play:
A power issue, which suggests the mainspring is weak.
One or more bent pivots, preventing the wheels from turning freely.
The paddle is not correctly positioned in relation to the star wheel. The hammer begins lifting immediately at the drop-off, which stalls the strike train. Once it gets going again, the hammer lifts easily and quickly. I’ll try repositioning the star wheel to allow more run time before the hammer paddle is engaged.
The first issue means replacing the strike-side mainspring. The second issue involves manipulating pivots. There is always a risk of breaking a pivot when attempting to straighten it, not a pleasant experience, as re-pivoting is necessary.
Check back later for an update on what I discovered—which of the three issues turned out to be the culprit, and whether I was finally able to fix a clock that, at times, seems determined not to be fixed.
Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.
My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.
19 wall clocks in my collection
My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.
The belief that bad luck happens in threes is a common folk belief that suggests that if you experience one bad event or stroke of bad luck, two more are likely to follow in quick succession. While this adage is not grounded in any scientific or empirical evidence, it has persisted for years.
In this blog post, I will recount a series of unfortunate events I’ve experienced with one specific clock, a German-made mahogany-cased Junghans Hansruck time and strike mantel clock from the latter part of 1913.
While my bad luck didn’t unfold rapidly it seems that I was destined to have problems with this clock from the outset.
Junghans Hansruck time and strike mantel clock when first received
Some time ago, I purchased the clock through an online auction. Emerging as the successful bidder, I arranged for the clock to be shipped to my location. It arrived intact and undamaged.
Setback Number One
After unpacking the clock, I immediately set out to test its functionality. I wound up both the strike side and the time side, ready to set the correct time when the minute hand unexpectedly snapped off. It wasn’t an ideal beginning, to say the least. While the minute hand was repairable, it added another layer of frustration to contend with.
Okay, I can deal with the hand later. Back to the clock. The clock wasn’t working after all, but a good cleaning and addressing any wear issues should get it running again.
Soldered minute hand
I managed to solder the hand and put it aside while I addressed the movement.
Setback Number Two
I serviced the movement, reassembled it, and placed it on the test stand. It ran smoothly for a few days on the time side, but the strike side had issues. While investigating the malfunction I identified a small stamped metal part on the movement had bent. In an attempt to straighten it, I inadvertently applied too much force, causing the piece to snap off. I’ll call the part an actuator.
The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The actuator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.
On the center arbor is a star cam. The 2 points on the star cam rotate every 30 minutes until a star point pushes the strike actuator to begin the strike sequence. A protruding piece of metal, the contact piece for the star point on the actuator, is the part that broke as I was attempting to unbend it.
Soldered actuator
As the actuator does not apply much pressure on the lever above it, soldering should do the trick. Back to more soldering.
The actuator is repaired and the hand has been soldered. Both are functioning like new and the movement is running well on the test stand.
Setback Number Three
Satisfied that everything was working correctly after the testing phase and the movement was keeping good time I then proceeded to mount the movement into its case.
Here’s how I think the third mishap occurred.
When mounting the movement into its case, I positioned the case glass side down without any padding. My attempts to secure the movement into the case might have inadvertently stressed the dial glass, leading it to break. I didn’t hear the crack, and the second possibility is that it occurred earlier, possibly getting kicked accidentally on the floor next to my desk.
The bottom line is, that the glass is now cracked, necessitating either replacing it or salvaging the dial bezel from another clock. I don’t suppose anyone has a magical resin that will hide the crack.
I thought so!
Cracked dial glass
Most errors in clockwork are fixable, but a damaged dial glass is an exception—it cannot be repaired.
Cracked glass aside it is a very nice clock and it runs well.
Are setbacks a good thing?
I don’t often publish my mistakes but in the spirit of transparency and the unpredictable nature of clock restoration, it seems fitting to share this series of setbacks with my audience.
So, does bad luck happen in threes? From a statistical perspective, events occurring in threes are not more likely than any other numerical pattern but it happened.
Setbacks are a natural part of the process and should not deter anyone from passionately pursuing a hobby they love. Not every restoration or service of a clock goes according to plan and it’s normal to face unexpected issues when restoring or servicing clocks that are over 100 years old.
Yes, of course, there are lessons learned. But it just seems very strange that all of this happened to me with this one clock.
Assessing the quality of mantel clocks, whether American or German, involves considering various factors such as craftsmanship, materials used, design, and overall reliability. Both American and German manufacturers have a rich history in clockmaking, and each has its own unique characteristics.
In my collection, I’ve assembled a diverse array of clocks, featuring both American and European examples. Drawing upon my experiences, I can confidently say that when it comes to overall quality, I find myself favouring a typical German clock over its American counterpart.
American mantel clocks are known for their diversity in design and style. Manufacturers like Seth Thomas, Ansonia, Waterbury, Sessions, and others have produced a wide range of mantel clocks with different aesthetic influences. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in many American mantel clocks are often praised. Some American manufacturers have a tradition of incorporating high-quality materials, such as solid wood and detailed finishes.
However, the American mantel clock market has seen fluctuations in quality over time. Some collectors and enthusiasts may argue that the mid-20th century saw a decline in craftsmanship as manufacturers faced increased competition and economic pressures.
I see this clearly in American mechanical clocks made in the 1920s and 1930s. There is a definite step downwards in quality and the goal of production seems to have been to maximize profits.
Germany has a long-standing reputation for precision engineering and quality craftsmanship, and this extends to its clockmaking industry. German mantel clocks, especially those produced by renowned manufacturers like Mauthe, Junghans, HAC, Kienzle, Gustav Becker, and others are often associated with precision movements and reliable timekeepers.
German mantel clocks are also known for their mechanical excellence and commitment to traditional clockmaking techniques. Many German clocks feature intricately designed cases and precise movements, often with a focus on accuracy and durability.
German clock manufacturers maintained their commitment to producing high-quality clocks well into the 1920s and 1930s. Instead of compromising on materials or craftsmanship, they opted to charge a premium for their clocks, ensuring that the level of quality remained consistently high.
A comparison
Let’s compare a common German mantel clock with its American counterpart. Both are in my collection.
Junghans bracket style mantel clock
The Junghans mantel clock features a design reminiscent of the popular bracket-style clocks that were fashionable several years before its production around 1915. It has a mahogany veneered case, a brass case handle, brass features below the dial, a solid brass dial bezel with beveled glass, and elegant brass feet. Its sturdy time and strike movement, known for its reliability during that era, adds to the clock’s appeal as a dependable clock for the home.
Seth Thomas time and strike with type 89 movement
The Seth Thomas clock, manufactured in the United States, showcases a case of inferior quality, a basic brass bezel, and a simulated wood veneer that imitates the appearance of exotic wood. Cost-saving to maximize profit was the ultimate priority during the period of manufacture of this clock from the early 1930s.
Despite this, the clock is equipped with the reliable and durable type 89 movement, which has proven to be bulletproof and dependable over time.
Servicing a German vs an American movement
There are pros and cons to servicing either type of movement. German time and strike movements can be a bit more intricate and finicky, especially when setting up the strike side, as lining up the parts correctly is crucial. Dealing with smaller pivots also increases the risk of damage, bending, or breaking.
Conversely, with American time and strike movements, the larger pivots minimize breakage and it requires brute strength to inflict any damage when manipulating the parts.
However crude an American movement might appear in a side-by-side comparison with a German movement, there is a notable advantage to the former. An American movement (generally speaking) can endure wear much better than a German movement, and it can continue to run effectively even when significantly worn.
That said, when both are set up correctly and any wear is mitigated both American and German movements function reliably for years.
In Summary
Both American and German mantel clocks can offer high-quality options, but individual preferences may vary based on factors like design preferences and specific features.
Collectors and enthusiasts often appreciate the historical context and craftsmanship associated with clocks from both regions.
Obviously, your source of clocks depends on where you live in the world as Canadian and American clocks are widely available to those living in North America whereas the opposite is true for European and Australian residents, for example.
One last thing to note is that precision regulators from both countries are of equal quality. Whether American or German, both exhibit equal precision and performance. They both adhere to the highest standards and can be trusted for accurate timekeeping. It’s worth noting, however, that achieving such precision comes with a correspondingly high price.
These viewpoints represent my personal opinions, and I encourage readers to delve into researching specific models and manufacturers. Making an informed decision should be based on individual preferences and priorities.
My apologies for the wordplay in the title. I recently encountered an issue with the striking mechanism in a German clock I’m currently repairing, and in this article, I would like to describe my experience with the repair.
I have to admit it is a frustrating problem that could have been a disaster but I came up with a solution that should work.
Junghans movement on the test stand
The other day I was investigating why the strike side of a Junghans time and strike movement was not functioning correctly and discovered a portion of a small stamped metal part on the exterior of the movement had bent.
I had simply pried too hard when unbending a part of the stamped metal piece and it snapped off, which surprised me. It was a very small piece and when it flew off it was hidden in the clutter of my work area but I was successful in retrieving it. Without that small piece, I was not certain I could make the repair.
The movement in the case
Perhaps I do not have the correct name for the part that bent but let’s call it the strike actuator. The strike actuator when activated lifts a lever to begin the strike process. The activator is attached to the front plate with a small machine screw and is free to move.
On the center arbor is a star cam. The 2 points on the star cam rotate every 30 minutes until a star point pushes the strike actuator to begin the strike sequence. A protruding piece of metal, the contact piece for the star point on the actuator, is the part that broke as I was attempting to unbend it.
Junghans movement side view
Needless to say, I was crestfallen. What do I do now!
There are essentially three ways of addressing a situation like this.
If I had enough spare parts, the straightforward fix would be to replace the problematic part by taking it from a donor movement. However, whereas I have an ample supply of spare American movements for American clock repairs, unfortunately, I lack spare German movements for parts.
To my knowledge, there is no established source for Junghans clock parts. While clock parts suppliers offer various components for common repairs like escapements and mainsprings, smaller parts like this are typically not readily available in their inventory.
The second solution is to simply have a nonfunctioning strike side but a clock that at the very least, tells the time.
The third alternative involves undertaking a repair, as there appears to be a potential for some sort of restoration. So, I chose to fix it. Although I cannot assure the repair’s absolute success, my intention is to conduct thorough testing to assess its effectiveness.
The Repair
To repair the actuator there is no need to disassemble the movement. One small slotted screw holds it in place. Release the screw and it is ready to be worked on.
To repair the actuator, I used a high-temperature butane torch along with a solder containing a significant amount of silver. It comes in spools and looks much like aluminum wire.
Silver solder is known for its higher melting point compared to other solder types, ensuring greater durability and reducing the risk of weld cracking.
Using hobby alligator clamps, I securely held together the broken piece and the actuator, eliminating the need to handle the pieces manually. After securing them, I dabbed flux in the weld area and then applied heat until the metal changed color and then proceeded to apply the solder.
The stamped metal black part is the actuatorand here you can see the successful repair
The challenging part involved aligning the fractured piece onto the actuator. I had to carefully maneuver the clamps to ensure they were positioned correctly for the welding process. The actual soldering was the easy part and literally took seconds.
After a few minutes, I reattached the actuator. I then wound both the strike and time side of the movement and observed the action of the actuator as it went through the strike sequence. It worked!
I plan to keep the movement on the test stand for a couple of weeks or more but after running it for four days the weld has held.
Final thoughts
Tackling the repair of the actuator in this Junghans clock posed its challenges, particularly in aligning and securing the broken piece onto the actuator. Importantly, in any clock servicing, mistakes may occur, but it’s crucial to remember that there are ways to address and rectify many errors. Whether through additional adjustments, alternative techniques, or seeking guidance, the learning process in clock repair involves both successes and challenges.
In the end, the commitment to problem-solving enhances one’s skills, making each repair experience a valuable lesson in the pursuit of clock repair.
In the heart of North End Halifax, on December 6, 1917, a Junghans Crispi clock fell off a wall in a house on Princess Court. Unbeknownst to it, this simple clock would become a silent witness to one of the worst man-made disasters in Canadian history – the Halifax Explosion.
The cloud produced by the explosion
As the Belgian relief ship Imo collided with the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc, a catastrophic event unfolded in Halifax’s harbour. The explosion at 9:04:35 a.m. reshaped the landscape, claiming 2,000 lives with 9,000 injured, and left an indelible mark on Halifax’s history.
Since some case parts were missing, a catalog image of the clock served as a helpful referenceHow the clock was received
Fast forward to 2017, a century later, and the remnants of that clock found their way into my hands. The following journey is about a box of clock parts, carefully preserved by a family for generations, passing through to a new owner to be revived and displayed as a connection to history.
The movement was very dirty but intact
The task of reviving the clock, and turning it into a connection to history is a process that took over two months.
The restoration unfolded step by step. The clock parts were carefully cleaned, new parts were fashioned, and the correct materials were found to restore the Junghans Crispi wall clock to renewed glory. The hands, frozen since that fateful day, started moving again – a symbol of human resilience.
The restored Junghans Crispi wall clock was finally unveiled in late 2017 and has been ticking away and gracing the wall of our dining room ever since then. Its polished wooden frame, bold brass accents, and rhythmic ticking resonated with the shared history of a city and a clock that refused to succumb to the ravages of time.
As we mark the 107th anniversary of the Halifax Explosion, my Junghans Crispi wall clock stands as a symbol of resilience, remembrance, and the power of restoration.
In the quiet corners of North End Halifax, it tells a story that transcends time – a tale of survival, renewal, and the enduring spirit of a community that rebuilt itself from that terrible moment.
Last week I began working on a Junghans round top mantel clock. For first impressions and background information about the clock itself, you can find the article here.
During this segment of the maintenance process, my attention will be focused on the mainsprings.
Upon my initial assessment, it appeared that the movement was found to be in decent condition, overall. A noticeable accumulation of dirty oil in the majority of pivot holes told me that a thorough cleaning was necessary.
Junghans movement with the back plate removed
Upon closer inspection, elongated pivot holes in three locations tell me that new bushings need to be installed: specifically, on the third wheel time side, back plate, and both the front and back plates of the star wheel. The star wheel runs off the count wheel and it is the star points that activate the hammer for the strike.
But first, let’s focus on the mainsprings.
In my experience neglecting certain steps during clock servicing can result in potential future complications.
One side of the barrel is open
For example, there is a temptation to overlook the mainspring barrels, yet it becomes evident that unless one is confident about the absence of accumulated dirt and grime within the spring barrel, certainty can only be achieved through disassembly. Moreover, the open design of this particular barrel increases the likelihood of dirt penetrating the springs.
While mainsprings can be removed from their barrels by hand and subsequently coiled back in by hand, a mainspring winder, such as one made by Olie Baker, is an essential tool for the serious repairer.
Time side mainspring on an Olie Baker spring winder, an appropriately sized collar is on the right
Removing and reattaching the caps to any barrel can be quite cumbersome. With this particular barrel, a convenient and swift method involves using a small slotted screwdriver in one of the two small openings to easily pry open the cap.
A small slotted screwdriver is inserted in the opening to pry open the cap
The importance of wearing leather gloves for safety cannot be overstated.
Tightening the mainspring allows for the insertion of the collar
A firm grip on the barrel ensures a predictable and controlled process.
The collar is in placeand the spring can be let down and removed from the barrel
During the removal of the mainspring, a thorough inspection is conducted to identify potential issues such as stress cracks, unusual wear, pitting, and the accumulation of rust. Subsequently, the spring undergoes a meticulous cleaning process to eliminate any dirty oil, followed by reoiling, before being reintegrated into the barrel.
Reattaching the cap to the barrels can be accomplished by employing two small clamps to gently guide the cap into position.
Two clamps help to guide the cap in place
Once more, the use of gloves guarantees safety.
Upon proper placement, the cap will emit a distinctive “snap” sound.
Both mainsprings have been serviced and the barrels cleaned in the ultrasonic machine
The springs in this particular clock appeared to be in excellent condition and are suitable for reuse.
Meanwhile, it is essential to inspect the barrel teeth for signs of wear, particularly focusing on any bent or damaged teeth during this stage. Worn teeth may result from a spring that is too powerful and not correctly rated for this clock, while broken or bent teeth could be indicative of a mainspring failure.
Next, we proceed with the remainder of the maintenance for this time and strike clock, moving on with the polishing of pivots and bushing work. Join me in a few days as we continue the servicing of this Junghans movement.
New owners of an antique or vintage clock might find it surprising that their recent purchase requires periodic maintenance. This realization often dawns upon them only when the clock stops, and they struggle to get it running again.
This Junghans wall clock, C.1899 is a daily runner
In this discussion, we explore regular clock maintenance, underscoring the importance of continuous inspection to ensure your clock enjoys a long and functional life.
Determining the ideal service interval of a running clock is a frequent topic of discussion among clock repairers, influenced by various factors that impact a clock’s lifespan. Factors include environment, age, frequency of use, manufacturers recommendations, complexity of the movement, user maintenance and cost of repairs.
Regular inspection
I conduct regular inspections of all clocks running continuously in my collection every 3-5 years, enabling me to pinpoint potential issues and remediate them if necessary.
Not all of my clocks are inspected on a regular basis. Among my collection of approximately 85 clocks, only a maximum of 27 clocks remain in continuous operation. Of the remaining ones, certain clocks may need specialized maintenance, are in various states of repair, some have fragile or rare parts, and others are reserved for special occasions.
Elisha Manross steeple clock from the 1830s
As an illustration of a clock that seldom runs, one of my clocks is a 30-hour time-and-strike Elisha Manross steeple clock dating back to the 1830s. This particular clock features brass mainsprings, making them irreplaceable if they were to break today.
Brass mainsprings
Clocks that occasionally stop signal a need for immediate attention. I look for any immediate issues that might have caused the stoppage otherwise I focus on identifying green or black residues around the pivots. Contaminants mixing with clock oil create an abrasive paste, damaging bushing holes and pivots and in time the wear will stop a clock. If a clock stops after running continuously for years it is more often than not a wear issue. Disassembling the movement is imperative, enabling a detailed assessment of wear and determining the extent of intervention.
When dealing with a non-functioning clock no matter what procedures you have taken to get it running, the first step involves a visual inspection to identify evident problems like broken or bent parts, as well as missing components. This leads to the next step which is called servicing. True clock servicing involves comprehensive disassembly, inspection, cleaning, addressing wear and damage issues, reassembly, and thorough testing.
Factors that affect wear
Several factors affect wear, with the local environment playing a pivotal role. Humidity and temperature fluctuations, especially in older homes or those with wood stoves, impact a clock’s performance. Dust and pet hair, infiltrating the movement, also accelerate wear.
Clock cases that are tightly sealed with access doors help alleviate these concerns, and a properly sealed clock will extend the intervals between servicing.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator runs continuously
Different types of clocks exhibit unique wear patterns. Spring-driven time and strike clocks often wear on strike side pivots more often than the time side due to the shock of the half-hour strike. Chiming clocks face additional challenges due to the complexity of the chime/strike sides, where dried oils and dirt cause friction, leading to eventual stops. Weight-driven clocks, especially if not correctly in beat or with twisted cables, may suffer premature stops and require thorough investigation.
A mechanical clock as a decoration
Many people appreciate the decorative allure of antique clocks and opt not to operate them, choosing instead to display them as decorative pieces. However, leaving a mechanical clock unused poses risks.
Time and the environment, rather than operation, cause the most damage. Unused clocks primarily suffer from the thickening of the oil over time and the eventual breakdown of that oil. On the other hand, dried-up oil provides no lubrication for the pivots and leads to accelerated wear. Excessive enlarging of the brass pivot holes by the steel pivots will eventually lead to depthing issues (depthing, which is the correct meshing of one gear in relation to the next is a topic beyond the scope of this article).
Parts left motionless often tend to fuse, and rust accumulates, particularly in humid environments. Although the majority of clocks possess brass plates that are resistant to rust, there is a significant portion of steel components in them that are susceptible to corrosion.
In addition, mainsprings frequently become stuck due to thickening oil, causing the spring to fuse in position.
Running the clock even occasionally such as once per month is essential, enhancing longevity.
Clock cases also need attention
While maintaining the clock movement in good condition is crucial, cleaning the antique clock case is also important for several reasons.
Firstly, a clean case enhances the overall appeal of the clock, showcasing its design and craftsmanship.
Secondly, regular cleaning prevents the buildup of dust, dirt, and grime.
Thirdly, cleaning the case helps preserve the wood or other materials, preventing cracking and blistering and ensuring its structural integrity. I apply Minwax furniture paste wax on certain surfaces to protect the finish and maintain its appearance.
A clean clock case showcases its design– Junghans Sydney mantel clockC.1913
Overall, cleaning the antique clock case ensures its longevity, functionality, and visual appeal, making it an essential aspect of proper clock maintenance.
Health check for clocks
In my controlled home environment, with stable temperature, low humidity, and no pets, I prioritize regular health checks for my clocks as a preventive measure. Yet, due to the controlled environment in my home, I can prolong service intervals to around 4-5 years.
Shorter periods are recommended for clocks in less controlled or fluctuating environments, ensuring timely maintenance and preserving the clock’s longevity. Utilizing an Excel spreadsheet, I meticulously record changes, service intervals, and issues for each clock in my collection.
My goal is to ensure every clock’s durability, preserving them for future generations, and potentially passing them (well, at least some) down to my children.
Junghans, a renowned manufacturer of high-end wristwatches today, acknowledges their significant role in the clock industry by providing access to their catalogs to anyone interested in researching their clock production since the company’s establishment in the 1880s.
This demonstrates the company’s commitment to preserving the history and legacy of their brand and allowing collectors and enthusiasts to gain valuable insights into the evolution of their clock-making techniques and designs over time.
Auction photo
The 1915 Junghans catalog identifies this clock as the Hunsruck, named after a mountain range in Germany, and provides its specifications as 28.5 cm in height with a mahogany or oak case construction, a 14-day run time, and a silvered dial.
While I haven’t yet had the opportunity to service the clock’s movement, I have focused my attention on refreshing the clock’s case, which is the main topic of this post.
This particular clock was originally offered in both oak and mahogany versions, and the one in my possession is the mahogany variant.
A comment on the finish
Despite my expectations that the finish would be consistent throughout the entire case, I have noticed a noticeable tonal variation between the base and the top, sides, and front of the clock. This observation leads me to suspect that the base may be crafted from a different type of wood than the rest of the clock.
We will have to wait and see if any measures taken will have an impact on the tonal difference between the base and the rest of the clock.
All brass is polished and after one coat of stain is applied
Work begins on the case
I began by giving the case a thorough cleaning using Murphy’s soap. Following the cleaning, I applied a light coat of Mahogany stain from a company called Minwax, being cautious not to leave it on for more than the recommended 10-minute period to ensure the stain penetrated the wood correctly. After 10 minutes, I wiped off any remaining residue and gave it an additional wipe at the four-hour drying point.
After the initial staining, I observed that the base of the clock still had a tonal difference compared to the rest of the case.
Through previous experience, I’ve learned not to overdo the staining process, and often, one coat is more than sufficient. Despite this, I opted to apply a second coat of stain to the base only, intending to stop there, even if the tonal difference was still present. As a result there remained a subtle variation in the finish, perhaps only discernible to me. Nevertheless, I was very satisfied with the performance of the stain as it effectively concealed the scratches and nicks on the case.
For the final stage of the case restoration, my original plan was to use a product called Wipe-On Poly by Minwax but using a modern finish for restoring antique clock cases is not a conventional practice.
After careful consideration, I opted for a less intrusive approach by utilizing a finishing paste wax specifically designed for dark finishes, also made by Minwax (and no, I don’t have shares in the company). Clock cases were typically dusted, waxed, and polished during their time as part of routine housekeeping.
After one coat of finishing paste wax
As always, my goal is not to restore the clock case to its original factory finish but rather to conceal any imperfections caused by wear and tear on the wood surfaces in order to enhance its overall appearance. The light refinishing effectively achieved the desired outcome.
The brass
To clean the dial, side door button, and ball feet, I used a cleaning and polishing product called Brasso. I was pleasantly surprised by the results since I had anticipated that removing years of accumulated dirt and grime would be a significant challenge. However, the Brasso worked remarkably well in restoring the brass clock case features to their former shine. I removed the ball feet by unscrewing them so that I could polish every part of them thoroughly.
The dial
Despite efforts to remove the blemish between the numbers four and five with Murphy’s Soap, which was clearly visible in the auction photo above, it was found to be impossible to eliminate completely. However, it is now slightly less noticeable. I initially assumed that it was dirt, but upon closer inspection, it turned out to be some sort of abrasion.
In sum
Restoring an antique clock case can be a delicate and challenging process that requires patience and attention to detail. By using a combination of cleaning and staining products, as well as conventional finishes it’s possible to bring new life to a piece that may have been neglected or damaged over time.
While it may not always be possible to eliminate every imperfection entirely, taking the time to restore a clock case to a semblance of its former glory can be a rewarding experience for both the restorer and the future owner of the piece. Ultimately, the care and effort put into restoring an antique clock case can help preserve its history and ensure that it remains to be enjoyed for generations to come.
Junghans, a name that is well-known to clock collectors and repairers, is not the company it once was. In recent years, the company has established itself as a prominent manufacturer of high-quality wristwatches.
However, During the early to mid-20th century the German company had established itself as a prolific producer of wall, mantel, and tall case clocks. Collectors and enthusiasts highly value the company’s clocks for their superior quality, solid construction, and classic designs that have withstood the test of time.
Although I wasn’t actively seeking out a new Junghans clock to add to my collection, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to acquire this one at an attractive price. It now joins my collection of clocks, which includes two other Junghans clocks.
Junghans Sydney time and strike bracket clockC. 1911
One is a bracket clock from 1911 (code stamped B11), and the other is an older wall clock from the turn of the 20th century. Both of these clocks are among the 21 clocks in my home that are run and maintained on a daily basis.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clockC. 1899
As expected, the clock arrived safely after I chose to have it shipped to me instead of personally picking it up from the auction house, which is located two hours away from my home. I had confidence in the auction house’s ability to package the clock securely for safe shipping, as I have dealt with them in the past and they have always been careful with packaging.
Auction house photo
Having received the clock, I can confirm that it is exactly what I expected it to be, with no surprises or unexpected issues. Checking its functionality, I wound both sides and it runs and strikes as it should.
Backplate and coil gong
A similar movement in my Sydney bracket clock is stamped with a code (B11) indicating its production year, which is two years before this one. The gong block in both clocks is also identical in appearance.
However, I will only be able to confirm if there are any other internal differences between the two clocks when I dismantle the movement for cleaning.
Dial
Is the blemish just above the number five a scuff mark or a permanent abrasion, or is it merely a buildup of dirt that can be cleaned off?
Crackling or alligoration of the finish
The case of the clock appears dull and neglected, and I am uncertain as to the appropriate method for refinishing at this point, nevertheless, it is evident that the case’s appearance would be significantly improved with some care and attention.
Pendulum bob and key
A correction from a previous article
After believing that the pendulum attached to the clock was not appropriate for the movement, I replaced it with what I believed was the correct one. However, I discovered that the replacement pendulum did not reach down to the beveled glass port and the rod hook was opposite in orientation to the one that came with the clock.
Despite functioning well and keeping accurate time, it did not look suitable. After I posted an article on first impressions, sight unseen, A reader pointed out that they have the exact pendulum bob for their Junghans roundtop clock, which has now led me to reconsider my previous assumption that the original pendulum was not the correct one. Thank you, dear reader!
Now that I have confirmed that the clock is functioning correctly, it is time to proceed with the disassembly and cleaning process, which is evidently long overdue.
Seven clocks in my collection have family connections, not necessarily with my own family but clocks that I am able to trace back through families mostly in Nova Scotia (Canada). No names are mentioned. The stories are sad in some cases but interesting nonetheless.
Let’s begin.
Waterbury wall clock
When I was a child back in the 1950s my grandparents had one clock in their home, a Waterbury drop octagon located in the kitchen above the sink. It was the only mechanical devcie that made a sound in their home.
Waterbury shot dropwall clock, homemade case
My grandfather was a veteran of the First World War and suffered from shell shock (PTSD) long after the war. His home had to be stone quiet with the exception of the time and strike Waterbury clock in the kitchen.
Not knowing much if anything about case constructionmy cousin decided to screw the bezel into the case
After he died my grandmother sold the house and moved in with one of my aunts. The clock went to one of my uncle’s kids. The original case was painted yellow to match my grandfather’s kitchen walls and either it was in poor condition or broken, and a new case was constructed by my cousin. He knew almost nothing about case construction but did the best he could. Because he did not know how to repair the movement the clock was stored in a barn for a number of years (chicken pecks on the dial face!). In 2020, he gave the clock to another cousin who was breaking up their home and asked if I would have it.
Rather than take the movement out of its homemade case and put it into something more appropriate I decided to leave it as is as the case with all its warts is part of the history of the clock.
Sawin Banjo clock from a collector in Wolfville NS
My wife found this weight drive time-only banjo clock on Facebook Marketplace. The photos were quite poor and I imagine the seller was not getting much traction on the ad. Knowing that it might be something special I made an offer, sight unseen.
Banjo clockby John Sawin or one of his associates
It had a few minor issues such as broken glass, and veneer losses but otherwise, the clock was intact including the original acorn finial.
Timepiece
I always ask the seller about a clock’s origin and in this case, the clock was from a collector in Wolfville, Nova Scotia. The seller said that her uncle had this clock as well as a number of quality clocks for as long as she could remember, perhaps 60 years or so but could not recall where the clock originally came from.
After researching this clock I discovered that it was made in or around 1840, in Boston and although unsigned has all the markings of a clock made by John Sawin (or one of his associates) an apprentice to the famous inventor of the banjo timepiece, Simon Willard.
Gilbert mantel clock Shawville
What attracted me to this clock was the condition of the case. For a 100+-year-old clock, it is in remarkably good condition.
Gilbert time and strike mantel clock
The design is simple but graceful and of course, it would have been one of the cheaper clocks in the Gilbert line.
Gilbert movement
Despite the pandemic, people were still engaged in the buying and selling of clocks. This was another Facebook ad. The price was very reasonable. The clock was bought from a family in Shawville Quebec. A family member had passed away and all household items were sold off. The seller said her mother loved the clock and polished it weekly though it had not run for years.
Because the seller did not wish to have physical contact with me the clock was placed in a recycle container on the side of the highway for me to pick up.
Mauthe Horse crown
Most would call this a Vienna-style springer. Made in or about 1885 it had been in a family since I bought it from a former superintendent of schools about 6 years ago.
In the early 1980s, his wife brought the family clock over from Holland in a suitcase. It had been in his wife’s family for several generations previously. The gentleman’s wife passed away 10 years ago and had she been alive today I would certainly have learned a lot more about its history.
Mauthe Horse Crown with replacement bottom center finial
The seller was reluctant to let this clock go since it was a happy reminder of his past life. But he was moving into the next phase of his life with a new partner and that meant divesting of furniture and other items. Like him, I think of life in phases.
Mauthe Horse Crown movement
The only issue was a missing bottom finial. I can only imagine that the finial had to be removed so the clock could fit in the suitcase.
Junghans wall clock Crispi
What happens when you get a clock in a box? Call it a collection of parts, pieces, and dust. To some, a box of clock pieces is discouraging but to me, it was a challenge.
Junghans clock in pieces
This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring-driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. There is no serial number on the movement which dates the clock to 1899 or earlier (in 1900 Junghans began to number their movements).
Fully restored Junghans Crispi wall clock
This clock is a witness to the day of the Halifax Explosion in 1917. The result of the explosion from a munitions ship in the Bedford basin was apocalyptical.
This clock, owned by the seller’s wife’s mother caught the brunt of the blast.
Catalog photo of the Crispi, second from left
The blast not only shattered the glass panels but heavily damaged the box frame. Most of the parts sat in a box for 100 years. Since the box frame was damaged beyond repair, the seller, an amateur woodworker, built a new frame made of oak some 35 years ago. He was at a loss as to how to repair the movement, put the project aside, and lost interest.
Wag on a wall
The style of the clock is a “wag on the wall”. It is a strange name but basically, it is a clock with the movement enclosed in a small case and with a pendulum and weights exposed. It is so named because the pendulum appears to wag on the wall like a dog’s tail.
Wag on a wall, unknown maker
My wife’s uncle was an internist (internal medicine specialist) in Newfoundland and practiced for many years but dementia and its attendant complications finally got the best of him. He spent the last 5 or so years in a locked ward of a residential facility for the elderly.
The pendulum wags like a dog’s tail
As part of his practice, he set up a home office where he would receive patients and consult with colleagues. In his office was a wall clock given to him by a former patient.
When he passed away his possessions were distributed among his family members with the clock going to his brother who, himself passed away this past year. Unfortunately, there was not much interest in the clock and it spent 15+ years in a Rubbermaid container in the basement of his brother’s home.
His wife is currently in the process of moving to a smaller home, giving away what she could and since I have a keen interest in antique and vintage clocks she determined that the best place for the clock was in the hands of someone who would appreciate it.
Ingraham Huron
The clock is Rosewood “Huron” Shelf Clock, by E. Ingraham & Co., Bristol, Connecticut circa 1878.
Rare E Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
It has a paper-on zinc dial with a round glazed door and a lower glass access panel. It is a brass eight-day spring-powered movement, with a height of just under 41 centimeters.
Ingraham Huron balloon-style shelf clock
I asked the seller who was about 70 years old at the time, “what do you know about this clock?”. He extended his hand palm down out to about a meter from the floor and said, “I was this tall when I can first remember it in my grandmother’s home”. There is a penciled marking just inside the case indicating that it had been serviced by a person by the name of Hebb in 1944. The seller recalls a Hebb family who at one time lived in the Bridgewater area of Nova Scotia near where I purchased the clock.
He and his wife were in the process of dissolving their marriage and were selling off everything they own including many sentimental items.
Conclusion
I always make it a point to ask about the history of any clock I purchase. Sometimes, in the cases above I learn interesting things about the clock. In other cases, the seller knows nothing.
I wish I knew more about other clocks in my collection. Unfortunately many were passed on from seller to buyer and the history has been lost forever, but what stories some of them could tell.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
S. writes;
This clock was in My grandparent’s home since the 30’s (I think). My dad (he’s 96) seems to recall my grandfather winding the clock every day, but I just want to make sure. Can you tell me anything about the clock? Thanks for any info you can provide.
My reply:
It looks like a Junghans 8-day Westminster chime bracket style clock, made in Germany. If you open up the back door do you see a trademark on the back of the movement. Take a photo if you can and send it to me. You do not have to take anything apart to see the trademark. Does the gong have a name on it?
Perhaps he wound it every day because it was part of his ritual but it only requires winding once per week.
S. writes back:
Wow! I didn’t see it before!
Junghans trademarkBack of Junghans movement
S. writes back:
How do I see when it was made?
My reply:
The number below the trademark is A20 which means that it was made in the first 6 months of 1920.
It is always a thrill to reach a milestone. Six years ago I attended a WordPress workshop and after the instructor assisted us in setting up a rudimentary site, I thought, I can do this. I can talk about clocks! WordPress 101 certainly made it sound so easy but it wasn’t as easy as I thought as I began my journey.
It has taken time to build a following, more than I ever imagined. It takes planning, commitment, an investment of energy, and, finally, perseverance but at the end of the day, it has been worth it.
My office about two years ago
I began by following other blogs and making notes on what made them successful and eventually found a natural style that was best for me. Unfortunately, I have seen a lot of blogs come and go in the past six years, bloggers that ran out of ideas, lost interest in their blog, or for whatever reason, life got in the way. And some of those blogs were pretty darned good. But I wasn’t going to let that affect me.
The first two years were frustrating, to say the least, and I don’t know how many times I thought of quitting, but I hung in even though the number of views was, well, disappointing. I knew my content was interesting, certainly to me and I knew there were people out there who had a yearning to read and learn about mechanical clocks, so, I stuck with it. And, I am glad I did.
Case repair and restoration work area
As I have said elsewhere if you regularly use a lathe to cut gear teeth, re-pivot arbours, bush mainspring barrels on a weekly basis, fashion new wheels from raw stock or make advanced repairs on complicated movements and cases, this is probably not the place for you but you are welcome to leave any comments or suggestions or simply read one of my blog articles over a cup of coffee in the morning.
Seth Thomas #2 c. 1922
After six years I still consider myself a clock repair generalist though there is no denying that I continue to build my repertoire of clock repair and restoration skill. Judging from my mail I seem to appeal to those who are like-minded. I appreciate those who have stumbled onto my site looking for advice and guidance on a particular clock or clock repair issue.
Hamburg American Clock Co (HAC) mantel clock c.1908
But I especially appreciate comments and suggestions from regular viewers. And, yes, there is fan mail, most of it sent privately and I take great pleasure in responding to each and every query.
Ingraham Grecian c.1875
As I review articles that have the greatest number of views it seems clear to me that most of my visitors are looking for how-to and general information articles. That suits me just fine.
After six years I have developed an understanding of my audience and have managed to produce blog articles that seem to appeal to a wide range of people with an interest in horology.
Will I continue? Darn right, and as they say, the best is yet to come.
In January 2017 I took a chance, plunked down $75 and bought a project clock which consisted of a box of clock parts.
Junghans clock in pieces (notice bottom finial)
I took it home, stared at the box for a while trying to figure out what to do and how far I would get with this project. I itemized the parts, arranging them on the case as best I could and put together a plan. At least I had something to go on when someone sent me the actual catalog image of the clock.
The clock is called the Crispi by Junghans, Ca. 1899. Junghans is a reputable German clock-maker that made all styles of clocks for over 100 years in Germany and continues in the watch business to this day.
There are subtle differences between my clock and the clock in the catalog but to the untrained eye it looks much the same.
What I did not change at the time was the bottom centre finial. Most who are familiar with clock case design would agree that the bottom centre finial is actually one of the top crown finials and was re-positioned in a previous repair. I left it as-is as I went about restoring the rest of the clock.
After completing a number of other clock projects during the Pandemic as well as addressing an errant strike issue with this clock, I decided it was time to replace the finial with something more in keeping with the original design.
Here is the clock (next photo) when I finished with the case. That bottom centre finial always bothered me but, as I said, I let it be.
This is a clock that I took to a professional clockmaker to have repaired in the days when I did not have the skills to service a clock.
It worked well for about two years or more and then the strike side became very erratic. It would either strike incorrectly on the half hour or strike until the mainspring wound down. I cannot blame the repairer as these movements can be finicky to work on but my knowledge of clock repair has improved such that I can better diagnose and repair most clock issues today.
The problem was twofold. One, the paddle was not quite in the correct position in the deep slot of the count wheel at the end of the strike and the strike paddle ended the strike sequence by hanging off one of the star points of the strike wheel.
It took several attempts through trial and error but eventually I was victorious and the movement now strikes correctly.
Top finial placed on the bottom by a past repairer
Now, let’s get back to the case. As you can see the clock had been returned to its former glory and is quite faithful to the original except for that bottom finial.
I chose a flat back unfinished 2 1/2″ by 2 3/4″ hardwood finial that is available from most clock parts suppliers. I matched the stain to the case and applied three coats of shellac. Using a drill press I made a hole to accommodate a piece of dowel in the base and finial to secure it to the lower base section. I applied yellow carpenters glue to secure it and here is the result. The cost to rectify it was minimal.
The shape, size and style is now appropriately suited to the case.
The seller had the clock in his family for many years, perhaps as long as the clock is old. Anyway, he would not budge from the $75 but he asked me to send a photo of the clock when it was completed. I did, and received no acknowledgement. I don’t think he ever thought it would look quite like this.
The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century
Bought on an online estate auction site earlier this year, servicing the movement is the subject of this post. Once the movement is serviced, the next step is to address dirt and grime on the case and see what I can do to improve the look of the dial although I am not very hopeful that I can do much to improve it.
For those unfamiliar with the HAC acronym, it stands for Hamburg American Clock Company, a well known German company acquired by Junghans in the late 1920s. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU. Kind of a strange name for a German clock company but that is how the original investors wanted it named.
I have a number of German clocks including familiar makers such as Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.
HAC clock circa 1900-1910
Assessment of the movement
It is a typical 14-day German time and count-wheel strike circa 1900 to 1910. It is a robust and almost industrial looking movement and perhaps made early in this series of movements. It could be the type #21 although I can find nothing to confirm it.
The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century. This movement has slightly thicker plates, no cutouts, and no extraneous holes and looks sturdy.
HAC clock movement, dirty and very tarnished
It has been worked on in the past, the strike side mainspring having been replaced at some point in the clock’s life. The time side has the HAC cross arrows stamped on the mainspring and appears to be original.
HAC clock movement, no cutouts
It doesn’t look as though there were issues at the time when the mainspring was replaced, no punch marks around the pivot holes or new bushings, for example, but there are wear issues now and that is to be expected in a 100+ year old clock movement.
In total the movement required 9 bushings, 6 on the strike side and 3 on the time side; 4 on the backplate, and 5 on the front plate. A couple of pivot holes are questionable and exhibit some wear and out of an abundance of caution I bushed them and why not while I have the movement apart. As expected there is more wear on the lower parts of the trains.
The bushing work went as expected. Some of the pivots are quite small and required 2.50mm OD bushings which I don’t often use but have plenty of them in my supply.
Ultrasonic cleaning did not do much to brighten up the brass plates, but to me aesthetics is unimportant. My goal, as always, is simply to have a properly serviced movement that runs well.
Assembly and testing
The movement was assembled and oiled. Both the strike and the time side are running well. There were no particular problems setting up the strike side other than a couple of attempts setting up warning before I got it right.
HAC movement on the test stand
It continued to run well during the next couple of weeks.
It is a 14-day movement but I find with these German movements that winding them once per week ensures more accurate timekeeping.
During the winter of 2017, I restored an antique Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock, circa 1898.
It came to me as a box of parts. I sensed the seller fully intended to complete the project but never got around to it but at least he reconstructed the case. I saw a challenge in that collection of dusty and dirty parts.
Much of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, dial, hands, coil gong, and movement bracket, the bottom base and top section of the case, crown, backboard, vertical columns, and most of the decorative trim. I added glass, smaller trim features, upper finials, and their bases.
Replaced some 40 years ago is the box frame and the front section that supports the right and left columns. Parts of the clock were evidently destroyed beyond repair and the remainder salvaged for later restoration which was never completed.
How the clock came to me
While much of the “newer pieces” are hidden, the previous owner took care to replicate woodworking techniques of the period aside from the use of Roberston screws on the back panel.
That aside, the movement was very dirty and had not been running for many years. Perhaps it last worked just before the Halifax Explosion of 1917. The previous owner informed me that the clock was in the family home in north-end Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) and the clock took a significant hit from that fateful blast on December 6th.
Very dirty movement, right out of the case
After completing work on the case, I set about working on the movement. During the course of disassembling/reassembling the movement, I not only broke the strike paddle but a retention spring as well. Back then (2017), my skills were not advanced enough to repair it so I had it professionally serviced.
Junghans movement, broken strike paddle
Three months later I picked up the clock and hung it on my dining room wall. It ran perfectly for over two and a half years. Some months ago the strike became erratic. It would strike incorrectly, not at all, or incessantly till the mainspring ran down.
I had a number of other clock projects on the go so I kept the time side going and left it on the wall until December 2020.
Disassembly and Inspection
Once I took the movement apart I found a slightly bent strike side cam wheel arbor. There were no other bent pivots or worn pivot holes and everything else looked good. Back in 2017 during its stay in a clock shop it had had extensive bushing work done, 6 on the front plate and 6 on the rear plate. There was a small amount of dirty oil around the pivots and after 2 plus years that is to be expected.
During the course of manipulating the plates, I snapped the paddle arbor retention spring, again! This time I was able to repair it.
Junghans movement spring repair upper center, Threadlocker Red at the base of the spring
There was enough of the spring to reuse. The wire is thin (0.5mm), very brittle and it does not take much pressure to break it. Using a micro drill with a 0.5mm HHS bit I drilled out the existing hole in the plate, reinstalled the spring, and applied Threadlocker Red to bond the spring to the plate.
Electric micro drill
Re-assembly
I cleaned the parts in the ultrasonic, pegged the pivot holes, polished the pivots, and re-assembled the movement.
Junghans movement work ready for the rear plate
I took a couple of attempts to line up everything on the strike side; paddle in the deep slot, cam lever in the low part of the cam, and strike paddle aligned between the points on the star wheel while ensuring that the stop wheel pin was in the 12 o’clock (approximately) position. If you have worked on German count-wheel strike movements, all this should sound familiar.
One is tempted to bend a lever or two to correct the strike side behave but in my experience, unless someone has messed with a lever in the past, it is best to leave them alone.
Junghans movement on the test stand
And now for testing. After several days the movement is running well and the strike side is finally behaving itself. Since there is nothing amiss I will chalk this up to a strike side design that causes it to “wander” over time or that slightly bent cam wheel arbor. One or two cycles on the test stand should be sufficient before returning it to its case.
While it was on the test stand I decided to research this clock. I visited the Junghans archive catalogue site and discovered a few new-to-me details. The clock was available in the 1898 catalog as I suspected.
Four Junghans wall clocks in 1898 catalog; the Cripi second from left
The clock case is described as “old oak” with burnished brass trimmings. The Crispi, as it was called, was designated #1758 and was available with a white or ivory-colored celluloid dial or a white or ivory-colored 5 3/4 inch enamel dial (this clock). The length is forty and a third inches (103 cm) and it is a 14-day strike. Given the description of the length, in inches, the clock was likely marketed for the United Kingdom and Italy as you can see by the above catalog entry.
Overall, a successful servicing and if it “wanders” again, a simple disassembly, reassembly, and re-adjustment at some point in the future should put it right. Let’s hope that is more than two years away this time.
Lately, I have been working on a stately bracket clock by Junghans from the latter part of 1911. I love the look of this clock though some would say it is quite plain.
Junghans mantel clock on display on the day it was bought
The Regency style veneered mahogany case of this time and strike bracket clock is in reasonably good condition save for a small piece of veneer missing on the right side of the base and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place.
I had completed servicing the movement a while back but also planned to address both the case and the dial as part of the rejuvenation of this clock.
After a thorough cleaning (and scrubbing) with Murphy’s soap, I freshened up the case followed by three coats of shellac.
The top of the clock looked good after a cleaning
Cleaning the dial
Silvered dials present a somewhat more challenging problem than zinc painted or paper dials. The silvering is very thin and can be rubbed off easily through over-aggressive cleaning resulting in a damaged finish so, it pays to be cautious.
Here is a prime example of a German U.M. Muller wall clock dial where someone used a strong cleaner resulting in a serious blemish. The dial must be completely restored. I have no plan to fix it.
U M Muller clock dial, damage between the numbers 6 and 7
Of course, there is the option of leaving this dial as-is but why not attempt a cleaning. As this is a non-porous dial, dirt is surfaced based.
Junghans clock dial and the extent of the dirt and grime
From my research, many methods of dirt removal seemed dubious and any kind of chemical on a silvered dial is plain wrong. I chose to use mild (diluted) liquid soap and Q-tips to lift off the grime. While it took dozens of Q-Tips dipped in soapy water and gentle scrubbing in the direction of the spun dial most of the dirt was removed and none of the silvering was damaged. It is difficult to see any improvement as one proceeds so, it pays to be patient. After a couple of hour’s work of gentle rubbing, this is the end result.
Junghans clock dial after cleaning
While not perfect it is much improved. The aged look remains, with a patina that most would consider acceptable. Following the cleaning, where there was missing paint on the numerals, they were filled in with black acrylic paint. No further restoration is necessary.
Junghans clock project is almost finished but for the lower brass features
Brass features
Next are brass features above the base section. Q-tips (many of them) and Brasso (Simichrome works well too) are perfect for bringing up the shine. Following the polishing, everything is wiped clean with soap and water and the inset panels are given a fresh coat of shellac.
The carrying handle on top was also cleaned with Brasso.
Junghans Cbracket style clock
Dial work and case cleaning are options when bringing any clock back to life but it boils down to personal choice. Some choose to leave things as they are to retain the original patina but I am in the camp that a little cleaning goes a long way. Cleaning takes time and patience, however. You may not see the results immediately but work carefully and you will be amply rewarded.
You may have noticed that the feet are different in the last photo but I will save that story for another day.
I found this German mantel clock on a local online buy and sell site. The seller had two clocks, one, a generic German-made Westminster chime and this, a Junghans bracket-style clock. I knew right away that this was the better deal. It appeared to be a higher quality clock compared to the other one. I offered a slightly lower price and the seller quickly accepted. He said he never had it running in the two years he owned it and added, “I got to get rid of it, I’m moving”.
Junghans bracket clock handle
During my search to find the model name or number I came across one listed on eBay at the time of writing and two others while browsing similar auction sites. None had the model name or number but prices are all over the map, ranging from $50 to $300. I still do not know the model name or number.
Although it has a carrying handle on the domed top and would be termed a bracket clock, let’s just call it a rather plain-looking mantel clock with a handle. When I envision a classic bracket clock I picture a clock with verge escapement, subsidiary dials over a signed dial housed in a gaudy case. Let’s call this a poor relation.
Junghans clock side view, not cleaned yet
The Regency style veneered mahogany case is in reasonably good condition save for a small piece of veneer missing on the bottom side front and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place. It has not been cleaned in ages and scrubbing with soap and water removed a considerable amount of built-up dirt revealing a very attractive case.
The silvered dial shows some aging consistent with wear and caused when advancing the hands many times combined with the simple act of winding the movement arbors. The hands are original judging from other clocks like it. I may touch up the numbers and the hands in addition to giving the dial a cleaning to spruce things up a bit but we’ll see when I look at it further.
The dial catch, back access catch, and hinges work well. These often break from constant use.
Judging from scratch marks on the backplate, the movement has been worked on in the past. I won’t know the extent or quality of past servicing until I take the movement out of its case and examine it more closely. The movement has a maker’s stamp with B11 just below the mark. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.
Junghans time and strike movement
When I brought it home the clock ran briefly, stopped, and failed to proceed. It will need a thorough servicing and a few adjustments to get it running again.
It is that time of the year when you begin searching for that unique gift. Of course, there are a multitude of choices but have you considered a mechanical clock as a gift? Let me provide you with a few tips.
Gilbert mantel clock
Mechanical clocks harken back to the old days when life was simpler; no mobile telephones, no internet, and no streaming TV. Ah, those were the days!
Okay, so you are reasonably sure that a mechanical clock would be appreciated by the receiver. What to buy? There are a plethora of choices out there and certainly, clocks that would fit every budget from the simple and cheap American kitchen clock to a rare 19th century Boulle figural French mantel clock. Let me attempt to narrow your choices, not with a specific clock but a buying strategy.
Mechanical clocks appeal to those who enjoy the sound, the strike of a clock, or those who merely appreciate it as part of their decor. These factors will influence your choice as a gift.
Here are two examples of clocks I have gifted to my family. My son and his partner have a German Schatz W3 bracket clock in a custom case. It is in excellent mechanical in running condition but it stays quiet on their shelf. Nevertheless, it is the centrepiece for their fireplace mantel.
Schatz W3 in a custom made case
My daughter has a Sessions Raven 8-day mantel clock which sits atop a bookcase in their family room. It only runs when my wife and I visit.
Sessions Raven clock
But they love their clocks.
The following two categories might assist you in your decision to buy a clock for your loved one, a friend, or a business associate.
Category 1 – Those recipients who appreciate a running clock
You will want to avoid a non-working clock. Unless you have the skills in clock repair or know someone who can work on it, it is best to steer away from those. Many sellers use the phrase, “may need some adjustment” which is almost always a red flag for a clock that has issues. These are the cheapest clocks, and for good reason, they are simply worn out.
You may also get lucky and find that special mechanical clock that has been recently serviced and is in good running order but you will pay more because the seller is interested in recouping their investment in the clock.
Buying a clock from a reputable clock repair retailer is a good bet if the clock has been serviced and a warranty is provided but expect to pay significantly more.
Otherwise, there are many buy and sell online sites. I would shop locally and avoid eBay or other online auction sites. Auction sites are a real crapshoot complicated by high shipping costs and the risk that the clock might arrive broken. Yes, that has happened to me!
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 15-day, double spring time-only
The sound of a ticking and striking clock in a room is very soothing for some. For others., not so much
Most clocks are 8-day running which means that they must be wound once per week. There are some quality 15-day and 30-day clocks but they are few and far between.
Daniel Dakota wall clock, made in China
Of the 30-day clocks avoid anything made in China. While 1-day clocks such as Cuckoo clocks and antique Ogees are plentiful and look terrific, winding a clock every day wears thin after a while.
Category 2 – Those recipients who want a mechanical clock as a decoration
Then, there are the folks who are not really that interested if the clock runs or not but want something that fits their decor and is a good conversation piece. A non-working clock with a good case is perfect. If it has the original movement but it is not working there is always the option of fixing it later. Personally, I would shy away from any clock that has its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one.
Focus on the condition of the case. Is it missing any parts, has recent work been done it, does it look authentic? Does it catch people’s attention?
For example, here is a very attractive Seth Thomas 8-day round top in a bold Rosewood case that has had only one minor veneer repair and a replacement dial face, but it looks great!
Seth Thomas round top
You bought the clock but the case is very dirty. Clean it! Some folks might argue that one should not clean a clock case so as to maintain it’s original patina. But, isn’t patina just another word for dirt? Soap and water with gentle scrubbing will make a huge difference. Check out this before and after photo of the cleaning of a clock face.
Junghans clock dial before cleaning
Junghans clock dial after cleaning with soap, water, and Q-tips
And this before and after photo of a gingerbread clock. You need not want to go the extra distance in retouching the dial but soap and water is an easy and non-invasive method of improving the look of the case itself.
Very grimy clock case especially the base section
After, showing a clean case and a retouched dial
Final words
A mechanical clock makes an excellent gift and it is something that can be passed down from one generation to the next. My kids appreciate a mechanical clock from their dad and I will gift them one that is in excellent mechanical condition but I am not bothered if they use it merely as a decoration.
The antique clock and the dilemma of identity. Some may feel this is much ado about nothing but discussion on identity and antique clocks tends to prompt a lot of debate. Let me explain.
Let’s say you are looking for that particular antique clock and you think you have finally found it. The photos look great and the description hits all of the boxes on your list. Let’s assume you found it locally and are meeting the seller soon to close the deal. You arrive, they present the clock and you notice things that are not quite right with the clock. The clock you thought was an authentic antique has been changed over the years and the seller may or may not even be aware of the changes. If the clock has been changed is it an antique in the truest sense of the word. You walk away feeling that too much has been done to the clock and continue your search.
A clock collector might have the opinion that if too much is done to restore a clock it is not fundamentally the same and cannot be considered original even though the new parts were made from the same materials using similar methods when the clock was first made. An antique shopper who knows little about clocks might not be bothered by the changes if the clock “looks” original.
Another might have the opinion that changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original” and therefore more desirable. But has the clock changed its identity during the change process and is it less original if it has undergone restoration?
Here are some examples.
From This.
Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock that some would have thrown out
To this.
Not perfect but saved from the trash heap
From this.
Junghans Crispi wall clock in a parts box
To this.
Junghans Crispi wall clock resurrected from the grave
If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock? It follows that if you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity? This is an example of a thought argument that raises the question of whether an object that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object.
I was working on a clock recently that was said by its owner to be an antique. At first glance, it looked original. The case was a little tired, the movement looked like it was cared for or at least properly serviced at some point in its life. As I began to examine it more closely I discovered several anomalies. Although the movement was the “correct” maker as the case, the movement was taken from a kitchen clock and slightly modified to fit the case. Is this clock still an antique or has it strayed too far away from the definition of an antique because it is a “marriage”
People pay for originality. For my money, I prefer a well-cared-for clock in original condition. I will take a second look if it has been tastefully restored or repaired and know that it is better than having it trashed or perhaps parted out. However, I would not expect to pay as much for a “changed” clock”
If a clock is overly restored how should it be valued? I am not against conservation or restoration but if a clock was two steps away from a garbage can is it less valuable if restored?
There are no clear answers. There will always be buyers who demand originality and those who overlook certain changes. Is this much ado about nothing?
In Part I, I wrote why I collect, repair and restore clocks. In this, Part II are 9 reasons why clock collecting and repair is a great hobby for just about anyone.
9 Reasons why clock collecting and repair is a great hobby
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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