Some time ago, I was up for a real challenge when I bought an old clock that seemed hopelessly irreparable. While picking up another clock, the seller threw this one in for a few dollars more. The clock, an Ansonia Extra Drop, was in pieces and had been stored in a barn—literally—for many years. The case had completely come apart, and half the backboard was missing. Most would have thrown out this jumble of parts, but I saw a diamond in the rough.
The movement was intact, but it was the dirtiest I had ever seen. Okay, it looks bad, but might it be saved?
Front of movement showing plenty of rust
It was so rusty that none of the wheels would move. I was less concerned about the wheels and pivots because I knew that once I took it apart and cleaned it up, there was a good possibility that the wheels would move again. The rusty mainspring concerned me, however. A mainspring’s strength can be seriously compromised by the presence of rust. That said, it seemed to me that a surface coating of rust alone should not be too much of a problem.
Back of movement
After cleaning, polishing, and addressing pivot wear, the movement was reassembled, and a deciding the mainspring could be reused; here is the final result.
How well did it function? So well, in fact, that it is now one of my daily runners.
And the case, you might ask? Well, it is not perfect, but I managed to piece together what I had, add a piece of backboard from an old ogee clock, touch up the dial, add a new set of hands, pallets, and crutch, suspension rod, and construct a lower access door. While it may look good from afar, closer scrutiny reveals its rough edges. Most importantly, it tells a story of resurrection.
In the end, what first appeared to be a hopeless, rust-bound movement destined for the garbage can proved otherwise. Does that mean every movement can be successfully brought back to life? No—though for some irreparable clock movements, some parts can be salvaged. However, with careful work, patience, and a willingness to look beyond first impressions, this clock was made to run again.
It served as a reminder that even the most neglected mechanisms often deserve a second look—and that revival is sometimes less about miracles than about time and persistence.
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Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock does not run, and a rusty mainspring is the culprit; the clock was in pretty rough shape when I bought it and the only significant part missing is the brass dial bezel and a number of minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door (which I made later on)
Making a drop door for the Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock; A barn find clock in pieces is a challenge for anyone. It was missing some parts. I discovered that I had enough to make something of it, and whatever was missing could be easily sourced or made.
The challenges of restoring an Ansonia wall clock when parts are scarce; This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2 inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door opens downwards. Other Drop Extra access doors open to the side.
We live in the northern part of Nova Scotia, and a trip to the Annapolis Valley for clock hunting is always a pleasure on an early fall day. It’s one of the province’s most beautiful regions — a mix of rolling hills, orchards, small farms, and picturesque little towns that always seem to welcome you back. Our destination this time was the town ofBerwick, nestled right in the heart of the valley. It’s one of those places where time moves just a little more slowly — fitting, perhaps, for the clock that awaited us there.
Ansonia short dropschoolhouse-style clock
We had planned the trip beforehand, arranging to meet the seller at an agreed-upon time. The seller welcomed us warmly into his home and soon began to share the clock’s story. The clock had been in his family for over fifty years. “I never actually saw it running,” he said with a smile, “but my mother really loved that clock.” His mother had recently passed away, and he was in the midst of settling her estate. It was clear that selling the clock was not easy for him — it held sentimental value, as many family clocks do, but he knew it was time to let things go.
He told me that an antique dealer had been through the house earlier and offered one price for each room. “The clock alone was worth more than what he offered for one whole room,” he said, shaking his head. I could tell he wanted it to go to someone who would truly appreciate it. I promised it would be cared for and restored.
He believed the clock had come from an old schoolhouse in Ontario, decommissioned sometime in the 1950s, though its exact location has been lost to time. One can imagine it ticking away the hours for many years in that classroom.
The pine case is in lovely condition with only minor issues. Around the center of the dial, near the winding holes, some paint has been added — likely an attempt to cover small stains from decades of oily fingers winding and adjusting the clock.
Time only movement
The clock is an Ansonia octagonal short drop, often referred to as a schoolhouse clock. I’d place its manufacture around the turn of the 20th century — likely between 1900 and 1912. The number “12” is stamped on the movement, which may represent the year, though it could also just be a batch mark. The faint Ansonia trademark is still visible, and the letters “TT” are stamped nearby. This was my first Ansonia, and it’s always a thrill to study a new movement up close.
Image from the ad
One issue quickly revealed itself: the hour hand bushing was missing. The bushing provides the necessary friction fit with the cannon pinion, and without it, the hand simply spins. I suspect that’s why the clock was deemed “not working.” Someone probably thought the movement was faulty when, in fact, it was just missing this small part. Fortunately, it’s an easy fix that can be done with a replacement or a handmade bushing.
Dial removed, showing the movement and its curious slope to the left
When I examined the pendulum, I noticed something curious — small pieces of a rotted elastic band on the rod just below the suspension spring. Why it was there, I have no idea. Perhaps someone thought it would steady the pendulum, or maybe it was part of an old improvised repair. These little mysteries often make clock restoration interesting.
After a minor adjustment — a slight bend of the crutch to bring the clock into beat — it began ticking steadily. There’s minimal wear visible, which was confirmed when I removed the movement for a full cleaning and inspection.
Much has been written about the Ansonia Clock Company, once one of the great names in American clockmaking. The company went into receivership just before the 1929 stock market crash — a sign of difficult times ahead. The machinery and dies were later sold to a Russian company, marking the end of an era. It’s always a little sad to think that such a remarkable chapter in horological history closed that way. Clocks bearing the Ansonia name are still sold today, but the name on the dial bears no real connection to the company that once was.
When the new hands arrived in the mail, the final touches were complete. The hour hand came with a proper bushing and fit perfectly on the cannon. The clock, fully serviced now, runs beautifully — a fine old Ansonia, rescued from dormancy and restored to life. It’s now proudly ticking away on my daughter’s office wall in Alberta, keeping time as faithfully as it did more than a century ago.
Allow me to take 5 minutes of your time to watch my video of 19 wall clocks in my collection. Each wall clock is identified by its maker, where known. The video features background music throughout, with a brief segment of sound highlighting the winding of a Mauthe wall clock. Otherwise, there is no dialog.
My only requirement is that the clock must be in good working order and have an appealing appearance.
19 wall clocks in my collection
My entire collection consists of 85 clocks. Many are on display in my home, and some are in the process of restoration or repair.
My collection of clocks is divided between my home in Nova Scotia and our cottage in Central Canada. Part of my collection is there because I am not the type of person who abandons a hobby; I make it a part of my everyday life.
Although not an even split, about 15% of the collection is at our summer cottage in central Canada. The clocks at the cottage, though not particularly special, add a charming ambiance to the space. They often serve as great conversation starters when guests are over, contributing to the cozy and inviting atmosphere.
Let’s begin in the sunroom, the focal centre of our cottage. In this room are two German box clocks, a Mauthe and a Kienzle, which has been a recent acquisition. Joining the two box clocks is a 30-hour Ansonia cottage clock.
Mauthe time and strike box clock(the wall to the left is under construction)Kienzle time and strike box clock
Check out this recently posted article for more information on the Kienzle clock.
Ansonia 30-hour cottage clock
Inside the main part of the cottage which comprises the kitchen, dining, and living area are 3 clocks, a Hemle time and strike weight-driven wall clock, passed on by my wife’s uncle, known as a wag-on-a-wall clock, an Empire time-only gallery-style clock from England, and a 30-hour New Haven miniature ogee.
This New Haven clock might look good from a distance, but closer inspection reveals that the front veneer has been stripped, likely due to significant loss or damage. This condition is not common with old veneered cases but unfortunately, it is what it is.
New Haven mini ogee clock
In our bedroom is one clock, and one clock only, and it is placed there for a reason. It is a time-only GIlbert gallery clock. Gallery clocks, in other parts of the world, may be known pub-clocks, canteen clocks, or office clocks.
Gilbert gallery clock
This time-only gallery-style clock made by the Gilbert Company of USA is nondescript and quite ordinary looking. There is nothing special or distinctive about it but it is in excellent condition.
Check out this articleon how having a clock in the bedroom can aid in getting a restful night’s sleep. The article describes how providing a gentle reminder of the time helps regulate your sleep patterns and creates a more restful environment.
So, there you have it—time flies at my summer cottage with these clocks. They may not be particularly special, but they surely tick all the boxes to enhance my summer experience!
During the winter months, I teach part-time in a justice program at our local community college. The other day, I had a former student visit this blog and she commented on her admiration for one of my clocks, specifically a time and strike crystal regulator by Ansonia.
Thanks, Cate for allowing me the opportunity to profile this clock once again!
American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators
First a history of how I acquired the clock and what I know about it. While exploring an antique shop in Bloomfield, Ontario, my wife came across an intriguing find – an antique glass-cased brass time-and-strike American-made clock with an open Brocot escapement, manufactured by Ansonia.
This particular clock, featured in the 1905 Ansonia catalog under the name “Prism,” was priced at $29.00, a substantial sum for its time. It was the simplest design in the crystal regulator line and the lowest-priced model.
Collectors in the clock world frequently have discussions regarding the proper name for these clocks. Are they four-glass clocks or crystal regulators?
Ansonia Crystal Regulatorshowing the Brocot escapementwith jeweled pallets
A “four-glass clock” is a broader term referring to clocks with glass panels on all four sides, while a “crystal regulator” is a more specific subtype of mantel clock known for its transparent glass panels and often associated with high-quality craftsmanship. The primary differences lie in the design, purpose, and origin. The term “crystal regulator” is used specifically for American clocks that fall under the broader category of four-glass clocks, distinguished by transparent panels on all sides. Conversely, a French-made clock with a similar appearance is generally referred to simply as a four-glass clock.
The pendulum vials contain nickel slugs
While both types typically feature Brocot escapements, there’s a notable distinction in the pendulum design. Many four-glass French clocks incorporated mercury-filled pendulum vials, whereas American crystal regulators utilized nickel slugs within transparent vials.
American Crystal Regulators were essentially replicas of French regulators, boasting similar design elements such as a stylistic gong block, visible Brocot escapements, round movement plates, and beveled glass panels. However, they were an economical alternative to the French clock.
French regulators, crafted by high-profile makers like Japy, Marti, Vincenti, and Mougin, were highly esteemed and often included mercury pendulums. In the American market, Ansonia and Seth Thomas were prominent manufacturers of such clocks. They were not built to the higher standards of a French clock and were priced accordingly. Nonetheless, American Crystal Regulators have become sought-after by clock collectors.
American-made 4-glass clocks are commonly referred to as crystal regulators
The four glass panels of this clock are in very good shape, with only a small corner chip on one panel, which I discovered a few days after purchasing the clock. Fortunately, the chip is not visible from the front. The glass was likely damaged during a servicing session.
Overall, the clock is in good condition for its age and was made somewhere between 1905 and 1910. The brass, though tarnished, cleaned up nicely with the use of a cleaner. The brass was also lacquered to maintain its shine and protect it from deterioration.
On the bench and before disassembly
Upon acquiring the clock, it was not in running order, and my initial evaluation suggested that all it might require was a thorough cleaning and some bushing work. There was certainly a small amount of wear and the movement required 5 bushings, all on the front plate.
After disassembling, cleaning, and addressing wear, it ran without issue. Now, it’s one of several clocks that run weekly.
I would have to say it is one of the more unique clocks in my collection.
The origin of the name “schoolhouse clock” is not well-documented, and it appears that the term was not used during the time these clocks were made. Instead, it was later coined by collectors to describe a particular style of clock commonly found in school settings.
Gilbert Admiral with calendar function
Schoolhouse clocks were the standard design for early North American schoolhouses due to their larger, easy-to-read dials. They were widely hung in schoolrooms across Canada and often had simple time-only movements, although some versions included a calendar function or time and strike movements. These clocks had a utilitarian look and were known for their durability.
Ansonia Schoolhouse Clockwith 12-inch dial
The design of schoolhouse clocks is believed to be influenced by English drop dial fusee clocks, which were produced in the late 18th and 19th centuries. Drop dials closely resembled schoolhouse clocks and featured conical constructions with a chain or gut line pulled by a mainspring barrel, providing even power release for improved accuracy. Complicated movements such as these did not find their way into inexpensive mass-produced American and Canadian schoolhouse clocks.
When purchasing a clock, the author always asks the seller about its history and provenance.
Sessions Drop Octagon time only schoolhouse clock
In the case of the Sessions Drop Octagon wall clock pictured above, the seller had acquired it from a decommissioned one-room schoolhouse in Springhill, Nova Scotia. The clock, dating back to the 1920s, features a solid oak case, original hands, a pressed brass pendulum bob, a solid brass bezel, and a tin dial pan with stenciled lower glazing. While the paper dial showed signs of discoloration and wear, the clock was in reasonably good condition for its age.
Upon bringing the clock home, the author discovered that it ran for only a short time before stopping. A rubbing sound around the pendulum area indicated that the pendulum bob was hitting the inside of the case. After correcting a bent crutch rod, cleaning the movement, and making some adjustments, the clock started running properly. The author considered replacing the paper dial, which had brownish spots from prolonged exposure to moisture but decided to keep it as part of its history.
Time-only movements, like the one in this schoolhouse clock, are relatively easy to work on, making them suitable for beginners in clock collecting and repair.
While the exact origin of the term “schoolhouse clock” remains uncertain, it has become a permanent part of the clock collector language. These clocks, with their distinct style and large dials, were commonly found in early North American schoolhouses and have since gained sentimental value and recognition among collectors.
Well, it’s that time of the year. What is my best clock acquisition of the past year? You can decide for yourself and leave a comment but I will reveal my favorite at the end of the post.
As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks and every year I have managed to find a winner or two. 2022 was no exception.
In the early days of collecting, time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus with the goal of taking them apart and making them work, an important part of my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, clocks that have a special provenance, and growing my collection of Canadian-made clocks.
My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions may go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook/xxx auction house?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because it is a fair price but there are times when a little wheeling and dealing takes place prior to the sale.
In no particular order, here are my finds for 2022.
Fusee gallery clock
Gallery or dial clock, unknown maker
The clock is also called a dial clock in England which is where it was made. There are no markings anywhere on the clock save an obscure trademark that I have been unable to identify. It is a time-only fusee clock with a 12-inch dial, a very common size. It might have had a chain drive at the beginning of its life but it now has a cable. I have not serviced this clock because I don’t know enough about fusee movements, particularly the method of preloading the powerful mainspring.
E N Welch marine clock
Marine clock by E N Welch
This 30-hour spring wound clock with a hairspring lever escapement simply tells the time. It was made in the 1870s and perhaps earlier. It has been serviced, bushed, and cleaned, but my challenge at the moment is setting up the hairspping. It will work but not well.
Hamilton clock co ogee
Hamilton time and strike ogee clock, Canadian made
Acquired in the spring of 2022 this ogee clock was made in Hamilton, Ontario (Canada). The movement was serviced but the case challenged my veneering skills. It looks quite presentable now but was in poor condition when I bought it.
Jerome and Co. Rose Cottage clock
Rose Cottage clock by Jerome & Co.
Quite honestly I was going to throw the case out after having serviced the movement. It simply looks too far gone. However, I have accepted the challenge of bringing back this clock to its former glory. So far it is a work in progress.
Jauch calendar clock
Jauch 8-day calendar clock
From a distance, this clock looks good but a closer examination reveals a cheaply made time-only movement and an equally inexpensive pine case. It is clear that this German company was attempting to cash in on the antique American schoolhouse clock that was popular in the 1970s.
Wag on the wall
Wag on a wall
This has a well-made German movement, possibly by Mauthe or Hermle. It is a time-and-strike weight-driven clock and keeps very good time. Its only negative is that it has a cheap 1960s look about it but the only thing missing is a bottom middle finial.
Sessions Grand Assortment
Grand Assortment by Sessions
Perhaps the ugliest gingerbread clock ever made. The photo is the exact clock I worked on two years ago since the clock is apart at the moment and I have stripped down the case (a last resort).
Sessions Mission clock
Sessions Mission clock, 8-day time and strike
I like this clock not only because it is a 10$ thrift store find but it has very nicely styled mission clock and it works very well, keeping decent time for a spring-driven clock.
Empire gallery clock
English gallery clockwith 10-inch dial
I was hoping this was a fusee clock when I bid on it on an online auction in the spring of 2022 but it is a spring-driven 8-day clock with a fairly robust movement that was intended for commercial use, a store, an office environment perhaps.
Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock
Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock
I have a couple of Danel Pratt woodworks clock. Unfortunately, this one is missing its topper. Servicing woodworks movements takes special care and attention and I may tackle this clock in the spring.
Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock
Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock
I seem to gravitate toward 30-hour clocks. This is a time-and-strike clock and is in decent condition requiring only a few touchups.
My favorite?
Well, it has to be the time-only fusee which is probably why I subconsciously placed it first on the list. It well built industrial-strength clock that was designed to last for years. It looks great on any wall, is very quiet, and quite accurate which is what fusee movements are known for.
I am all in for a bargain and one cannot buy a clock any cheaper. A friend spotted this German-made Jauch time-only calendar clock in a thrift shop for $1.65.
Schoolhouse clock made in Western Germany by Jauch
The date stamped on the movement is July 1979 which is no surprise since the clock has a number of modern features such as a magnetic lower door clasp and lift-up hinged dial bezel.
Jauch time-only movement, PL42, length of pendulum in cms, date7/79
The clock is certainly a nostalgic return to the oak-cased schoolhouse clocks found in many schoolrooms 100 years ago like the Gilbert Admiral calendar clock (pictured below) from the late 1890s, but the case is a cheaper pine instead of oak.
Glbert Admiral time-only wall clock with calendar
The clock looks good on any wall and to many, this vintage clock would appear, at first glance, to be an antique.
In an earlier post, I noted that there is not a lot wrong with this clock. The case needs a little tender loving care which is easily remedied and the movement looks very clean.
I removed the movement from its case since it was not running, mounted it on a movement test stand, and made an anchor adjustment by moving the pallets slightly. The movement was now in beat. I oiled the movement and it has been running for several days.
The movement is on a test stand and running in beat
Two vertical pieces that looked like wallboard or laminate flooring hold the movement in place. The two sides are secured with 2 Robertson screws. I doubt the manufacturer would have used Roberton screws since this type of screw is widely used in Canada but seldom elsewhere.
When I removed the movement I noticed additional screw holes. So, it seems to be a later fix, but why? Is the movement a replacement? If so, why bother with such a cheap clock? A mystery to be sure.
The movement looks very clean and looks to have had little running.
Next is taking the movement apart. I wonder if any surprises await me.
The psychology of auctions, now that would be a fascinating study. How bidders behave, the frenzy of bidding wars often called “auction fever“, and the emotions wrapped into the pursuit of that one item everybody seems to want would be very enlightening.
Ingraham 30 hour cottage clock, under $30 at auction
Auctions are fantastic places to find great deals. I have found many clocks at auction for exceptional prices and have few regrets.
This post will explore how to use auction rules to the best advantage based on my experience and my observations. Presented are Ron’s tips that I have found effective. The focus is on online auction houses. eBay is another world but I suppose some of my advice may apply.
The photos on this page are auction wins over the past two years.
The classic auction
Although there are other types, the classic type of auction is where a seller sets the price, plus a time limit and bidders are encouraged to bid on the item. The highest bidder wins. This type of auction remains popular because of the familiarity and intuitive nature of the process.
Auctions can be live or online but online auctions are becoming much more common.
Using the “watch list” if offered
Many auction sites have a “watch list” which is a cool method of bookmarking the items you may (or may not) bid on. I generally peruse the auction offerings and click the watch button for those that interest me and in so doing generate a “list” of ten to twenty items for potential bids.
I hold off on bidding until I can determine which ones interest me the most, how much I am prepared to pay, and the total I have budgeted for the auction. I attempt to work within my budget but may make some adjustments during the auction.
The watch list also allows for a sober second thought before or during any auction. Put another way, I thought I wanted the item before but now I don’t.
Why you should not bid early
Auction sites want people to bid early to show everyone there is interest in the item. By revealing interest in the item others might be tempted to bid and this will drive up the bids. This benefits the auction house which makes more money on any item that sells higher. Novice auction goers are easily caught in this trap. Try not to get caught up bidding too high and too early in an auction even if it is something you really want. Fight the urge!
Establishing a limit
I consider each item carefully based on the photos and descriptions provided, determine what I would pay for the item in optimal condition, and factor in wear and tear or any parts missing in order to set an upper limit for my bid.
A tactic that works surprisingly well is to determine a maximum price on an item when the auction opens, make that bid and leave the auction.
Scottish tall case clock, $275 plus fees and taxes
Let’s say I bid $60, then leave the auction site. The next day or after the auction has ended, I will know if I won within my limit, or lost.If monitoring the auction a green win button will light on what you have won otherwise auction houses send out invoices after the auction has ended detailing items you have won. Winning is very satisfying, of course, but losing is not such a terrible thing, there is plenty of fish in the sea.
Others participating in the auction might also have set the same limit for themselves on a particular item. If I’m willing to spend $60, am I willing to spend $5 more (assuming a bid increment is $5). If I bid just higher than my limit assuming my limit is the same as others, I may still win the item without ignoring the budget I have set for the auction.
Without determining your limit, it’s too easy to get into a bidding war that might go something like this, “I was willing to spend $75, and I was outbid at $80. I could go $5 more and bid $85 but if I lose it at $85, $10 is only a tiny bit more”, and so on.
Stay within the upper limit and do not get caught up in a last-second feeding frenzy.
Auction “estimates”
This is just another method of forcing the bid higher. Ignore auction estimates unless there is a “reserve” on the item. A reserve price is a minimum price that a seller would be willing to accept from a buyer. In an auction, the seller is not typically required to disclose the reserve price to potential buyers. If the reserve price is not met, the seller is not required to sell the item, even to the highest bidder.
Proxy bidding
Most auction sites allow proxy bidding, meaning they will keep your bid as low as possible so you can win, but not exceed your maximum limit.
It works this way. I decide on a $60 upper limit and the auction’s bid increments are $5. At the start someone bids $5, I have set my bid at $60 but currently have the winning bid at $10. If someone else bids $25, my bid automatically goes to $30. They come back at $35, and my bid automatically goes to $40. If the auction ends at that point, I won the item for $40. If someone else came back before the auction ended with a $65 bid, then they win, but I do not exceed my limit. I then walk away from that item and focus on the next.
Rare items
Rare items that are desirable can be expensive. Humans tend to overvalue things they think are rare. However, thinking an item is rare might influence you to bid higher. The item may, in fact, be quite common. Do your research beforehand, or even during the auction.
For example, ogee-style clocks that some people would consider to be quite rare are, in fact, very common as thousands were produced by many American manufacturers over a span of 70 odd years.
Chauncey Jerome ogee clock, $35 at auction
Not so hidden feesand costs
There are additional fees and taxes as you would expect. Auction fees called “buyer’s Premium” is set by the auction house. The buyer’s premium is a percentage that is an additional charge on the hammer piece of the lot which is paid by the winner. Some auction houses will call it a service fee but think of it as a commission.
Buyers’ premiums may be higher for online auctions than live auctions and the percentage varies from auction house to auction house, typically between 15% and 20%. Some auction houses may even have an additional service fee above the buyer’s premium. Add taxes to determine the final price. A winning bid of $60 with a 15% buyer’s premium (our local auction houses) and sales taxes of 15% (Nova Scotia) pushes the final price to $79.35. It is the final price assuming you can jump into your car and bring the item home, otherwise, there are shipping costs. Suddenly your $60 win costs $200.
As a general rule, I do not request antique clocks to be shipped as the risk of breakage is too high.
The psychology of ownership
Here’s how it works. While you hold the winning bid, you begin to feel a sense of ownership, and the longer one holds the bid the stronger the sense of ownership. When outbid, you may think someone is trying to steal something from you and you want it back but now you are caught up in bid frenzy. To get it back you bid higher. However, even if you win the item you still lose because you have likely overpaid for it. Buyer’s remorse is the sense of regret after having paid too much.
Related is the Endowment Effect, meaning people will assign more value to an item that they own purely because they own it. This type of behaviour is typically triggered with items that have a strong emotional or symbolic significance to the individual such as something they had as a child or other nostalgic item.
A pocketful of money
Let’s say I plan on spending $500 at an online auction including buyer’s premium, tax, and shipping, so, I am limiting my actual bidding to approximately $300. Perhaps I am looking at only two items in the auction. For one I’m willing to go to $100, and for the other, I’m willing to bid up to $200 for a total of $300. I win the first item (for which I was willing to spend $100) for $25. I can now decide whether I should spend $200 on the second item, or if I’m now willing to go up to $275.
Determining a budget limit introduces an element of self-control and allows one to refocus attention on other auction offerings. It is also helpful when you are not watching the auction when it ends.
This is always an individual choice based on how much you feel the items are worth and what your research is telling you.
Ansonia Canada parlour clock, part of a $30 lot
Clock auctionhouses
An auction that consists only of antique clocks is a tough one to navigate and to win an item at a decent price. These auctions attract all manner of collectors and you might be bidding against a very determined collector who will want an item at any cost.
I find the prices in antique clock auctions to be generally quite high and unless you are looking for that special clock it is best to avoid them unless money is no object. I have much better success with estate auctions that do not generally attract dedicated clock collectors so, for the most part, you are bidding against people who have poor knowledge of antique and vintage clocks.
I suppose there are plenty of other strategies but these are the ones that have worked for me.
I acquired a number of clocks at auction this past winter (2022). All were antiques and all were in poor to fair condition but each one had potential. The auction notes simply said the movements were untested which can mean just about anything from a failed, irreparable movement to something that might have been serviced recently.
One of the four from the auction is an attractive clock with nice clean lines and from the look of the case, which is in decent shape, I would have expected a well-cared-for movement which turned out not to be the case when I removed it.
Those with a keen eye will notice something missing on the case – the topper or crown, but no worries, I have all the pieces, it is just a matter of gluing them back on.
Auction photo
I located a clock exactly like it online with a description that was no help at all other than the fact that it was made by the Ansonia Clock Co. However, the design of the base is identical to the “Alaska” found in the 1886 Ansonia catalog so, I would estimate the clock was made around that time, give or take a year or two.
Beyond a well-worn movement is that it has a 30-hour run time. A clock with a 30-hour movement is a tough sell based on my experiences these past 10 years. The alarm feature might attract some buyers or others might be simply looking for a decorative piece.
The movement
The one-day or 30-hour movement with alarm is made by the Ansonia Clock Co. The date June 13, 1882, is stamped on the front plate and refers to a patent date. Digging a little deeper I found Letters Patent No. 259,505 by W.D. Davies for a striking mechanism for clocks, registered in Brooklyn, New York January 31, 1882. Naturally, the clock could not have been made before that date.
Davies patent
The patent has a unique lifting lever, called a “turn back” (fig 4) that allows the hands to be turned back past the hours eliminating a second spindle that would otherwise be used by other manufacturers to allow the hands to be turned back.
The movement
It is a run-of-the-mill 30-hour movement. It is as small as one would expect for the run time. It has been worked on in the past as there are plenty of punch marks around the pivot holes, more so on the time side than the strike side which I will explain later.
I have spring retention clamps for all sizes of mainsprings but none that would fit this movement exactly. My smallest would not fit because there is a steel post in the way on the strike side but wire works just as well though I was able to get a clamp around the mainspring on the time side.
Strike side wheels, a wire holds the mainspring
As it is a 30-hour movement the mainsprings are not as powerful as one would find in an 8-day clock although I always use care when working with mainsprings and wear thick work gloves.
Every pivot on the strike side looked like the one below. Dirty yes, but very little wear.
Strike side pivot before polishing
The time side was an entirely different matter.
Every pivot was in very poor condition, the worst is shown below.
The escape wheel pivot is too thin to be salvageable
The worst pivots were both ends of the escape wheel and the third wheel. I was able to grind down most of the pivots, including the 3rd wheel since there was enough usable steel to carry the load through the train. Not so for the escape wheel.
New escape wheel pivot,front plate
It required re-pivoting.
The third wheel pivot on the time side,this one is salvageable
A sizable portion of the brass was chewed away on the escape wheel bushing, backplate. As wear accelerates over time, the clock would eventually “grind” to a halt.
Escape wheel pivot hole backplate
As for the difference in wear on both sides, there are two possible reasons. Some folks do not like the sound of a striking clock in a home. The clock will still run with only the time side wound but the result is disproportionate wear. The second is that the patented design does not allow room for error during setup and perhaps it was too frustrating getting the strike side to run reliably.
The new pivot
Using a mini lathe I began with a centering bit and then with high-speed bits drilled holes in both ends of the escape wheel to a sufficient depth to anchor the pivot wire. I have a good supply of pivot wire and it was a matter of selecting the correct size, which in this case is 1.35mm wire.
The shot above shows the new escape wheel pivot supported in place and it will remain on the lathe in this position until the Permatex Threadlocker Red has cured (24 hours).
Bushing the escape wheel bridge
With that kind of wear, I am surprised the clock ran as well as it did although American clocks will typically continue to run despite being well worn, wear that would certainly stop a German or French clock.
Assembly and testing
The strike side wheels are left out for testing (beat timer is attached)
Normally I would assemble the entire movement after completing the bushing work but since I installed two brand new pivots I realized that I would have to make minor escape wheel/pallet adjustments and having fewer wheels to deal with makes it less frustrating taking it apart again. A new suspension spring and leader also replaced the original one.
After 30 hours the movement continues to run strongly. I tested the movement a day or two more before installing the remaining wheels and levers.
Ten years have flown by very quickly. Just the other day I was cleaning a clock I serviced over 5 1/2 years ago and it struck me that I have been at this for over 10 years and loving it.
Three years into the hobby I decided to begin blogging and have been at it for close to 7 years. I love blogging and it helps me gauge my progress as I explore new avenues of clock collecting, repair, and restoration and it allows me to marry my photography hobby with writing.
It has been quite the journey, I have learned a lot in that time and have some thoughts I would like to share.
Managing my collection makes me a better collector
In the early days, I would collect just about anything I could get my hands on, the cheapest clocks imaginable, some for as little as $5, generally for practice working on cases and movements but the number of clocks began to build up at a fast rate.
80 clocks is a comfortable number for me. I have adopted a “one comes in, one goes out” rule to control the size of my collection.
I learned to become more discriminatory and concentrate on particular types of clocks rather than any clock at all, selling off or gifting those that did not fit my new criteria. Spring and weight driven wall clocks and American and Canadian shelf clocks from the 1860s and 1870s are my principle focus at this time.
Museum collection
Take your time, there is no rush
Rewards come in small increments. My last major project was an antique 1840s circa banjo clock. Acquired in the spring of 2021 it took me almost a year to complete the project, working on it in stages.
Sawin Banjo clock C.1840
Whether it is restoration or repair, I take my time investigating new (to me) techniques or wait for a tool that I feel would make the job simpler. For example, the bezel repair on the banjo clock above was made much easier by the purchase of a band clamp.
Buy only the tools you require and more if and when you need them
Tools can be expensive. As in any hobby requiring the assembly and disassembly of mechanical devices, I relied on the tools I had on hand to get started. Once committed to the hobby my next decision was to determine how I wanted to grow it.
Equipment such as a pivot cutter. lathe, a decent ultrasonic cleaner can amount to hundreds if not thousands of dollars.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
It took me four years to justify purchasing a pivot cutter, another year or two to buy a lathe and ultrasonic cleaner and over time I have managed to acquire most of the hand tools that I require. Spreading out the costs over time has also made it financially feasible.
There is always the option of buying used but I live in a distant part of Canada with a low population and there are just not as many people engaged in clock collecting and repair as would be elsewhere.
Antique and vintageclocks are cheap and there are plenty of them
Some clocks are well over 100 years old but are worth almost nothing. A glut of antique clocks offered on the internet have lowered their value. Ogee clocks that were once two and three hundred dollars years are worth a quarter of that today.
I have bought $40 clocks that are now worth, well…$40. There are a rarefied few in the world that are worth a fortune but I don’t have any of those in my collection.
A $5 barn find
Some clocks have crept up in price over the years but I do not have anything that I would call very valuable. Others, such as my collection of eight Arthur Pequegnats mantel and wall clocks are highly collectible in Canada.
At any given time there are literally hundreds of “antique” clocks offered on online for-sale sites. A majority of these clocks are trash and many are not antique though they are offered as such. Sellers often advertise clocks that are beyond repair and unfortunately clocks made in Asia are cheap, dangerous to work on, and were never meant to be repaired.
Choose repair advice wisely – not all advice is good advice
There are experts on clock repair out there, you just have to find them. It is too easy to get swept up by people who do not know what they are talking about and there are a number of well-meaning folk on YouTube that offer questionable clock repair advice. I follow a couple of well-respected YouTube repairers and have seen enough of their videos to convince me that they know what they are doing.
As I am a member of the NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) and a member of the Ottawa Valley Watch and Clock Collectors Club, chapter 111 of the NAWCC. As such I have access to a wealth of information including online library resources and articles. NAWCC has an online forum presence that anyone can join for free. There are a number of well-respected people on the forum who contribute regularly. They have years of experience and offer excellent advice.
There are few clock Facebook groups but the advice is all over the map. Tinkerers and experts can be found but the expert soon loses patience and many are chased away by the know-it-all.
Collect clocks for profit? The margins are too small. However, I do sell the odd clock to offset equipment purchases. For me, I love the nostalgia, the design, and the fascination of a machine that may be over 150 years old that works perfectly today. Value is not important to me. Hobbies for profit? For some but not for me.
Be prepared to walk away
I have walked away from more than a few clocks over the past 10 years. Sometimes you have to let it go. Whether it is the price of a clock on an auction site that has risen beyond what I am prepared to pay or a clock offered as rare when it is, in fact, quite common.
E Ingraham Huron shelf clock made between 1878-1880
Some would have been perfect to have in my collection but they were priced just a little too high for my tastes. Others had too many things wrong and had suspicious repairs or parts missing that would have been impossible to source.
Just when I say, darn I missed that one, a better clock comes along.
Meeting like-minded peopleopens up a new world
As clock collectors and repairers we are a strange lot. Some of my clock colleagues are quite eccentric. Most are introverts and although they keep to themselves have no trouble sharing with like-minded people. One of the most fascinating things about this hobby is the people and their passion for mechanical clocks.
Final thoughts
These are some of my reflections over the past 10 years. I have learned a lot, met many fascinating people, acquired some very interesting clocks and look forward to more adventurers in the world of clock collecting and repair.
I am an avid collector of antique and vintage clocks which means I cruise the online auction sites regularly, about once or twice a week. This spring I checked out offerings from a local online auction site that deals with estate items, placed bids on 4 clocks (actually 5 since one lot had two clocks). The one I did not win was a 6 column Sessions mantel clock but no real loss there.
I won the bids on four clocks. CDN110 was the total though with buyers’ premium and taxes the price jumped to CDN147, still not bad for a small collection of antique clocks.
I do not have these clocks as of this writing since they are sitting at the auction house but I think can make a preliminary judgment based on what I see in the auction photos.
Although I am normally not in the business of selling clocks I will sell the odd one to keep my collection manageable. The plan is to fix these clocks and sell them to offset clock equipment purchases most notably an Adams Brown Timetrax 185, an electric clock timer, an amplifier that measures the rate of mechanical clocks by sensing escapement action and mechanical sounds of the escapement which I recently purchased. Here they are.
Unknown cottage clock
In no particular order of importance let’s start with an octagon cottage clock from the 1870s or 80s. It is a 30-hour clock judging from the placement of the winding points.
With pendulum and key
From the style of the pendulum bob and the case itself, I would say an E. Ingraham & Co. time and strike cottage clock. Some would have come with an alarm. This one does not.
Side view
It is in fair shape. The dial appears to have serious losses and there are nicks and scratches over a good portion of the case from what I see in the photos. I wonder if the tablet is a replacement and the original reverse painted?
It is difficult to tell with the harsh auction light but the case might be made of rosewood.
Decorative pendulum
It will be a good candidate for a mild refresh and should look very nice when completed.
Sessions Grand Assortment #3
Next is a Sessions Grand Assortment #3. I have worked on one in the past. There are three models in the Grand Assortment series and despite the fact that it is a lowly gingerbread clock and thousands of similarly styled clocks were sold by every major American clock manufacturer, this model is surprisingly collectible.
It is an 8-day clock with a steam-pressed oak case. The case looks very “aligorated” a term applied to a shellac finish that has coagulated as a result of being stored in a hot, humid environment such as an attic or a garage.
The dial is in poor condition
The tablet looks good but the dial is very degraded. This is a paper-on-metal dial and when the metal below the paper rusts the stain bleeds through to the front. This is called “foxing”. These stains are very difficult to remove and cost-prohibitive for most clocks. This is a cheap clock and a dial replacement is the only option and as such, I am not sure what to do about it.
A note is attached to the key and it says 1903. It is doubtful it was actually made in that year and I am sure the previous owner went by the year Sessions Clock Co. acquired clock-maker E.N. Welch Co. though the clock is certainly from around that period.
With a note from the previous owner
Reconditioning the case might be a challenge. Is it a candidate for stripping down to the bare wood? I suspect it is but we’ll see. I also see a small crack just above the top of the dial, so it might have been broken off at one point and re-glued.
I am not sure about the pendulum bob which does not look quite right for this clock. More research should provide me with the answer.
E Ingraham Ocean and Ansonia kitchen/parlour clock
Next is a two-for-one deal.
A duo of clocks
The one on the left is an E. Ingraham steam-pressed 8-day gingerbread possibly from the Ocean series. Unfortunately, it is missing its decorative tablet and that will certainly affect its resale value.
The pendulum looks right for the clock and the case itself looks to be in decent shape but as I said, it is very unfortunate that the tablet is missing.
Pieces of a clock
The pieces at the foot of the gingerbread clock belong to the clock on the right. Usually, when I see pieces like this it tells me that it was handled roughly by the auction house.
What I like about this clock is its timeless design, almost Art Deco but made long before the Art Deco period.
So who is the maker of the clock on the right?
Unknown parlour clock
The auction description simply says, “unknown clock”. I believe it is an Ansonia 30-hour (position of the winding arbours) kitchen clock in Walnut from about the early 1880s. The tablet is bright and vivid, not a design I have seen before but likely original. Attaching the top pieces should be a fairly simple process and thorough cleaning of the clock case clock and movement should make it an ideal candidate for resale.
Of the four, two are 30-hour clocks. I have found that 30-hour clocks are a tough sell. Most casual collectors are looking for an 8-day clock since 1-day clocks are a hassle to wind but I think I can make both presentable enough to attract some buyers.
The auction notes do not say whether any of these are in working order. They are all “untested” which is typical auction-speak for “they may or may not work – the risk is yours!”.
American clocks are very tough and often work well despite being very worn. I suspect with a little encouragement I can get all of these clocks working again.
Now, to pick them up from the auction house.
Check for upcoming articles on each of these clocks.
While I have over 85 clocks in my collection twelve are 30-hour or one-day clocks. One of the twelve is a relatively modern clock.
The history of mass-produced clocks in America began in the 1820s and 1830s with 30-hour clocks that had woodworks movements. While the clock business was booming with many companies selling clocks to the masses, an economic recession in the late 1830s brought clock production to a halt.
Pioneer clockmaker Chauncey Jerome, who was in the clock business at the time, considered his “business troubles and disappointments” and he along with his brother Noble formulated the idea that movements could be made from brass. Noble Jerome received patent number 1200 for his brass clock movement, issued June 27, 1839. Woodworks movements began to be phased out and replaced by brass movements which were made in the hundreds of thousands. 30-hour brass movements were made well into the 1860s and were eventually replaced by the 8-day brass movement.
Because 30-hour clocks were produced in the thousands many examples have survived to this day. Most clock aficionados today have at least one ogee clock in their collection.
Of the 12 in my collection 5 are running continuously. Yes, winding a clock everyday is a hassle but we often forget that at one time the thirty hour clock in the form of the bedside alarm clock was a fixture in every home but for this post I am excluding the dozen alarm clocks in my collection.
Half are weight driven, so let’s begin with those.
Sperry and Shaw
Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock
This, a four-column shelf clock designed in the “New York” style was made between 1841 and 1851. Sperry and Shaw were assemblers and distributors and sourced parts from various producers. The movements and cases could have been made by Silas Hoadley or Chauncey Jerome or both.
I bought the clock from student in Halifax, Nova Scotia in the fall of 2018 and he would not budge on the price. My only question to him prior to making the deal was whether or not the clock had the original wafer weights which would be almost impossible to source if missing.
Daniel Pratt and Son
This is the only clock I have with a woodworks movement. Daniel Pratt worked with others but eventually went out on this own in the 1830s. I would date this clock to around 1837. This clock was won at an estate auction for the price of $30 during a time when clock prices were hitting rock bottom. The clock has a wood dial and a mirrored lower tablet (may or may not be original) and the case is in very good condition for its age.
Daniel Pratt and Sons
Chauncey Jerome
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock
This clock is from around 1855, made just before Chauncey Jerome’s company went into bankruptcy. This was also bought at auction a few years ago. It came with an extra mirrored lower tablet and a “spare” dial. I am not sure if either the mirrored tablet or the JC Brown picture are original. The veneer, however, is in perfect condition.
George H. Clark
George H Clark 30 hour Ogee shelf clock
This is an ogee from around 1857. There is no makers mark on the works but it is a Waterbury type 2.411 movement. The case is well-preserved and in excellent condition, obviously well-cared for by a previous owner. The beehive tablet looks to be original.
Waterbury Clock Co.
This an ogee style clock from 1865. It was bought at an antique store in Halifax. There was no price on the clock. I asked the owner what he would sell it for. He said, name a price, I said $40 and he said, sold! Evidently it been in his shop for a while. It is the first clock on which I learned how to replace very worn trundles.
Cuckoo clock
Dave’s cuckoo clock
This is a 30-hour cuckoo clock with a Regula movement, made about 1976. A cheap German made mass-produced “tourist” clock that was given to me by a relation. It still works but it is on its 3rd movement.
And now for the spring driven clocks.
Ansonia Cottage clock
This cottage clock is from about 1895. This another clock that was given to me. These were probably dollar clocks at the time. They had cheap movements but were solid and reliable. Surprisingly, these command good prices on the auction sites since so few remain.
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Canada Clock Company
The Hamilton Cottage Extra is from about 1880. These are now very difficult to find since so few have survived. It is Canadian made and collectors will happily pay hundreds of dollars for one. It has a very cheap case made of softwood with no veneers. The acid etched lower tablet is quite unique. It was bought in a local junk store for $40. I could not believe my find.
Hamilton Cottage Extra
Elisha Manross
Elisha Manross gothic steeple
The Manross is a thirty hour time and strike and called a steeple clock. One interesting feature is that the Rosewood veneer is in a vertical orientation on the side columns unlike most that have a horizontal orientation. It is also the only clock in my collection that has brass mainsprings which were phased out in the early 1840s making the clock historically significant. Needless to say that in order to preserve the mainsprings I run this clock infrequently.
Hamilton Clock Company
The style is known as gothic steeple. The clock is from about 1876 and features a religious expression on the acid etched lower tablet, “Cling to the Cross”. There are some veneer losses but the clock is in decent shape. The steeple tips never seem to survive on these clocks.
Hamilton Clock Co. 30 hour time and strike
New Haven
This is a spring driven time and strike ogee from around 1875. Unfortunately the veneer has been stripped from the case and the softwood re-stained but it is an attractive little clock nonetheless. The dial is a replacement and the lower tablet has some losses.
Ogee New Haven clock
New Haven
This a called a Sharp Gothic according to the label. It is an American-made clock sold by a jeweler by the name of Thomas B. Spike in Halifax, Nova Scotia (Canada) in the 1880s. The lower tablet features a seaside Parthenon scene which might suggest it was one of many produced for foreign markets. There are some veneer losses but the clock is in running order and keeps reasonably good time. It has replacement mainsprings because it will run for 3 days on a wind. Not bad for a 30-hour clock!
New haven Gothic Steeple clock
I hope you enjoyed this little tour of a part of my collection of 30-hour or one-day clocks and please leave a comment. As for expanding my collection of one-day clocks I am not sure that I would continue acquiring them unless I came across something quite unique or if one were given to me.
The past year has been like nothing we have ever experienced in our lifetime. Routines, relationships and plans were upset and with them major adjustments have had to be made. The situation is improving day by day, folks are re-establishing their routines, the country is opening up and things will no doubt return to normal in the months to come and with it a new definition of normal.
How will future generations define this dark period of our lives?
The lake our Shangri-La
It is time to relax, slow down and for my wife and I that means a change of scenery as we travel to our cottage in central Canada to spend the summer season with friends and family. Our get-away plan for the summer is to relax with a few good books, do a little fishing, swimming, hiking and exchange stories with friends and neighbours over a glass (or more) of wine.
Since many of my articles have been written well in advance of the summer months there will be NO interruption in blog posts through the summer months. I will continue to maintain a steady output of 7 to 9 clock blog articles per month.
An Ansonia cottage clock with the dial removed for testing and spaghetti for lunch
Keep those cards letters coming as 1960s TV variety host Dean Martin used to say. There may be a slight delay returning your email inquiry or responding to blog post comments but rest assured that question(s) about your clock or comments regarding any of my posts are important to me and will be answered.
Roasting marshmallows
This blog profiles my own clock collection, the challenges of maintaining and repairing clocks, the joys of finding new and interesting vintage and antique clocks plus many articles of horological interest.
As we explore central Canada I will no doubt find interesting clocks as we scour antique stores, flea markets and junk shops. New clock stories, new repair challenges and perhaps the next major restoration project will also be part of my journey this summer.
Canadian Clock Museum, Deep River Ontario
Included will be a trip to The Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario to discover new and interesting clocks added to their collection and chat with curator Allan Symons.
Use the search box to browse past articles and/or click “follow” to have clock articles brought to your mailbox every three to four days. I hope you enjoy reading them as much as I enjoy researching each and every article.
The antique clock and the dilemma of identity. Some may feel this is much ado about nothing but discussion on identity and antique clocks tends to prompt a lot of debate. Let me explain.
Let’s say you are looking for that particular antique clock and you think you have finally found it. The photos look great and the description hits all of the boxes on your list. Let’s assume you found it locally and are meeting the seller soon to close the deal. You arrive, they present the clock and you notice things that are not quite right with the clock. The clock you thought was an authentic antique has been changed over the years and the seller may or may not even be aware of the changes. If the clock has been changed is it an antique in the truest sense of the word. You walk away feeling that too much has been done to the clock and continue your search.
A clock collector might have the opinion that if too much is done to restore a clock it is not fundamentally the same and cannot be considered original even though the new parts were made from the same materials using similar methods when the clock was first made. An antique shopper who knows little about clocks might not be bothered by the changes if the clock “looks” original.
Another might have the opinion that changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original” and therefore more desirable. But has the clock changed its identity during the change process and is it less original if it has undergone restoration?
Here are some examples.
From This.
Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock that some would have thrown out
To this.
Not perfect but saved from the trash heap
From this.
Junghans Crispi wall clock in a parts box
To this.
Junghans Crispi wall clock resurrected from the grave
If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock? It follows that if you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity? This is an example of a thought argument that raises the question of whether an object that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object.
I was working on a clock recently that was said by its owner to be an antique. At first glance, it looked original. The case was a little tired, the movement looked like it was cared for or at least properly serviced at some point in its life. As I began to examine it more closely I discovered several anomalies. Although the movement was the “correct” maker as the case, the movement was taken from a kitchen clock and slightly modified to fit the case. Is this clock still an antique or has it strayed too far away from the definition of an antique because it is a “marriage”
People pay for originality. For my money, I prefer a well-cared-for clock in original condition. I will take a second look if it has been tastefully restored or repaired and know that it is better than having it trashed or perhaps parted out. However, I would not expect to pay as much for a “changed” clock”
If a clock is overly restored how should it be valued? I am not against conservation or restoration but if a clock was two steps away from a garbage can is it less valuable if restored?
There are no clear answers. There will always be buyers who demand originality and those who overlook certain changes. Is this much ado about nothing?
Over the summer of 2020, I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.
Ansonia Syria
It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.
This is Part II of a two-part series. My general comments and first impressions are found in Part I which you can find here.
It is an attractive clock in relatively good shape for its age. From my research, I have determined that it was made sometime in the early to mid-1890s.
Time and strike movement with an 1882 patent date
In this post, I will continue with disassembly, cleaning, general comments about the condition of the movement, and any potential trouble spots.
Dis-assembly and servicing the movement
The movement is held in the case by 4 screws. Once out of the case the first order of business is to restrain the mainsprings with mainspring C-clamps before separating the plates. Safety is paramount; those springs are powerful.
Although C-clamps are the round type in the following photo I prefer flat clamps for most American movements. Either will do but flat clamps are perfect for tight spaces.
Olie Baker spring winder
After disassembly, my Olie Baker spring winder was put into action to unwind the spring, inspect it for cracks, surface rust, or any other issues.
Each mainspring is stretched out and cleaned with a Scotchbight pad and WD-40. It is carefully wiped down leaving no trace of the WD-40 and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner, you must work quickly to dry and clean the mainspring. Rust is insidious and will creep in quickly.
The mainsprings looked very good and once cleaned and carefully inspected I have no hesitation reusing them.
A mainspring is cleaned, oiled and returned to its arbour
I applied a drop of Keystone mainspring oil on each of the coils, wound the spring several times to spread the oil. Once the C-clamp is re-applied and hooked on to the arbour, the excess oil is wiped away. The clicks are in good shape, sometimes a weakness in American movements. At this point, there is nothing more to be done to the mainsprings until the movement is assembled, so, let’s put them aside.
I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last
Everything is ready for the next step
I inspected each of the wheels and pivots for wear and found everything including the lantern pinions to be in generally very good condition with one exception. There is minor wear on the flywheel lantern pinions but not enough to warrant replacement at this point.
I usually put the time and strike gears and pretty much everything else in one or two containers. When you have done many movements you learn to quickly identify the location of each component. I can take out any wheel or lever, for example, and identify its specific location. However, if you are just starting out or have not built up enough confidence I highly recommend separating the two sides. In the early days of clock servicing, that is exactly what I did.
I was curious to find that a past repairer scratched “S” (for strike) and “T” (for time) on each one of the wheels according to their location. I understand why but esthetically it does not look good. However, marking the mainspring arbours came in handy. I make it a point to return each mainspring on the arbour they came from. In most cases, the mainsprings are the same length and thickness but every now and then I come across two different sizes. Better to be safe than sorry. That aside the movement appears to be in good condition.
A bushing is marked for replacement
Once the parts are cleaned and dried and the pivot holes are pegged it is on to the next step, pivot polishing. I use a #11 Emory board to polish pivots. I secure each of the wheels in a 3-jaw chuck on my Taig metal lathe and move the Emory boards in an up and down motion to polish the pivots.
Taig lathe at its slowest speed setting
Following the polishing, it is on to any bushing work that may be needed. In the case of this movement, two bushings were needed, the second wheel, front plate and the fourth wheel backplate. Here, a new Bergeon brass bushing is pushed into the bottom plate.
New Bergeon bushing. Notice the fixed lifting lever, lower left
Movement Re-assembly
And now for re-assembly and testing.
Since the lifting lever is attached to the bottom plate and is otherwise immoveable the count lever is the only component that has to be put in its correct location.
I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last.
All is ready for the top plate
Once the time side wheels and the hour gear are in place I attach the third screw and then work the wheels and levers into place on the strike side. Once everything is in place I tighten all the screws. A pivot locator is your best friend when re-assembling any movement.
Pivot locator
On the first attempt, I was not able to synch the strike side locking wheel (sometimes you get lucky the first time) but I mounted the movement on the test stand overnight to check out the time side and the next day it was running as expected. The locking wheel pin needs to be adjusted but that can wait till tomorrow.
One issue raised its head after re-assembly. The strike side gears were not moving at all. I tested each gear and found the flywheel (governor) was sluggish and had no end shake. It freed up if the nut nearest the flywheel was loose enough. The reason. A past repairer installed a bushing that was too tall for the plate. End shake allows freedom of the movement when the plates are screwed tightly down. I filed down the protruding bushing on the inside of the plate and the strike side then ran smoothly.
On the test stand
Next day
Now to open up the top part of the strike side to reposition the locking wheel. Safety first. I restrain the mainsprings just in case the whole thing explodes. I re-positioned the stop pin so that it is resting on the stop lever and presto, everything is working as it should.
I would like to refresh the case but the owner left strict instructions to leave it as-is.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
JM says, “I have an Ansonia Octagonal Schoolhouse clock dated 1878 exactly like the one featured here. I also have the pendulum and key. It’s in good working order, but I am looking to sell it. I don’t know its value. I paid $500 for it in 1975. It’s a darker wood, the face is in good condition, and the description label in the pendulum area is intact. What would you suggest for a sale price?”
My reply. “First of all, I am not an appraiser but I have several years experience buying and selling clocks.
This is Part III of a three (3) part series. In Part I I discuss disassembly and servicing the mainsprings. In Part II, the movement and in this, Part III we will look at restoring the brass case.
This is Part II of a three (3) part series. In Part I, I discuss disassembly and servicing the mainsprings. In this, Part II, the movement and in Part III we will look at restoring the brass case.
My wife found this 1910 Ansonia Crystal Regulator in the late summer 2018 while antique shopping. What a great choice! We were in a hurry and despite a price reduction we should have asked the proprietor to show us that it worked. We returned home and to our dismay, it was not running.
In Part I of this two part series I discuss disassembly and the big question; how to service the mainsprings.
Front of movement showing visible escapement
The movement
There are 4 screws that release the plates. The 3 pin gathering pallet and hour gear must be removed to facilitate servicing. It is possible to re-assemble the movement without removing those two parts but it is very frustrating. To remove them assemble the plates. Using two small blades (small screwdrivers) positioned 180 degrees apart from one another will work. As these movements are visible, any scratches will show, so, placing masking tape on the plate will prevent scratches. Wedge both screwdrivers and the parts should pop off. The gathering pallet flew across the room (not ideal) but it worked.
Twisting the top regulator pivot bracket on the front plate upwards allows the pallets and crutch to come out from between the movement plates.
Clean parts in the usual way but do not put the pallet assembly in the ultrasonic if the pallets are jeweled. The ultrasonic machine will loosen the pallets.
Rack and snail assembly on the back plate
The movement required 5 bushings and all on the front plate; S2, S3, T2, T3, and T4. Unusual but understandable given the placement of the gears.
Getting it all back together
Putting the plates together with gears in place is fairly straightforward. It takes a gentle twisting to get the pallet assembly in position however, there is no need to force anything.
Most of the strike assembly is on the outside but it is important to set up the warning correctly. There are two wheels with stop pins.
Thanks to reader Bob G. for explaining the following. The wheel with the stop pin closest to the outside of the plate is the stop wheel. That is held back by the tab coming through the plate from the back of the movement. The next wheel that has a stop pin is the warning. As the hour arbor lifts the lever to begin the strike sequence, the warning pin holds everything back until the correct moment. That second stop pin should be at about the four o’clock position when looking at the movement from the front.
If the stop pins are in the correct position, you must adjust the position of the pins on the gathering pallet. If you hold the wheel next to the fly, you can grip the pallet with a needle nose pliers and turn it until the pins clear the rack. Otherwise, the pins on the gathering pallet will lock the rack and the clock will only strike once on the hour and half hour.
All adjustments have been made and the movement has been fully assembled and now onto the movement test stand.
This is Part I of a three (3) part series. In Part I I discuss disassembly and servicing the mainsprings. In Part II, the movement and in Part II restoring the brass case.
My wife found this 1910 Ansonia Crystal Regulator in the late summer 2018 while antique shopping. In the 1905 Ansonia Crystal Regulator catalogue it is listed as the Prism at a price of $29.00 which would have been a hefty sum at that time. (Flash is required to open the catalogue)
What a great choice! We were in a hurry and should have asked the proprietor to show us that it worked. We returned home and to our dismay, it was not running. As I said in an article published in Dec 2018:
A gentle push of the pendulum produces a few ticks and then it stops. I am not familiar with Brocot escapements and before I do anything I will research the movement before I disassemble it and give it a thorough cleaning.
Brocot visible escapement; in this photo, the brass is very tarnished
Just days old but I thought I would polish the brass
This is a truly beautiful clock with a visible escapement. What I have learned is this; don’t mess with a Brocot escapement. The stone pallets, which are made of garnet are very delicate and breaking one or both is a huge issue. The pallets are held together by melted shellac and cleaning them in an ultrasonic will loosen them as they are position sensitive.
It is now April (2019) and I have put this project off long enough. So let’s begin.
This not a particularly easy clock to work on. The pivots are smaller than a typical American time and strike movement which means closer tolerances. The strike side is rack and snail, that is, there are no helper springs and only one combination lever between the plates. Most strike parts are located outside the plates and the final assembly for the Brocot escapement also occurs outside the plates. There are two wheels with stop pins for the strike side. Setting them up can be a challenge.
Dissembling the case
To disassemble the case I wrapped two strips of painters tape on all four sides. Doing so prevents the glass from falling out. Beveled glass panels are difficult to replace and exercising care when working with the case will prevent accidents. Each glass panel can be as much as $75 by the time shipping is included and turnaround time can be as much as 2 months.
The first to come out is the gong assembly. One large nut secures the gong to the case and is accessible from underneath the base.
I chose to disassemble the entire case though it is possible to remove the movement without doing do. There are three screws at the 1-2, 10-11 and 6 o’clock positions though a long skinning screwdriver is required to get at them.
There are 4 large screws on the bottom and 4 on top. Unscrew the bottom 4 screws first. Once the base is off you will quickly realize the importance of the painter’s tape. To access the top screws there is one small screw underneath the top plate that must be released to access the 4 top corner screws. Patience is key if you work slowly the chance of error is reduced. Put the brass pieces and the glass panels in a safe place while working on the movement.
Mainsprings
The mainsprings are in barrels. The barrels are secured to the movement plates with 4 screws. The great wheel and the arbour are one piece. With a twist, the arbour can be removed from the mainspring.
There are three ways to service the mainsprings.
1) Find a temporary winding arbor and use it to unwind the mainspring on a spring winder.
2) Hold the barrel in one hand and pull the spring out with the other being careful not to kink or bend the spring. Once the spring is released from the barrel, unhook it and you are free to clean the spring. To put it back together, use a thick leather glove to hold the barrel, hook the hole end, and carefully rewind the spring back into the barrel.
3) Partially disassemble the great wheel and use the arbour without the gear in place. Special tools are required to separate the arbour from the wheel.
Olie Baker spring winder
Front of movement showing visible escapement
Back of movement showing rack and snail, hammer and rate adjuster
In Part II I discuss servicing the movement and in Part III, restoring the brass case.
I asked reader and fellow horologist Bob G. if he could kindly give me permission to profile one of his favorite clocks, an Ansonia Marquis crystal regulator circa 1904. This is a very impressive clock that showcases the best of Victorian style at the turn of the twentieth century.
The photos are Bob’s and I will let them largely speak for themselves. But first some information about the company.
Much has been written about the Ansonia Clock Company. The company’s history can be found here. Formed in 1844 the Ansonia Clock Company had a relatively long life but went into receivership just prior to the infamous stock market crash of 1929. The machinery and dies were sold to a Russian holding company thus ending the long reign of one of Americas best known clock companies.
“…there came an order to supply the Soviet union with men and machines to make watches and clocks, neither of which products ever had been manufactured there. Representatives of Amtorg went to the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn and to the Duber Hampden Watch Company of Canton, Ohio, and bought them lock, stock and barrel. Then they hired most of the skilled employees of the plants to go to Russia and operate the familiar machines. These have been installed in a new, many-windowed building in Moscow, where Russian apprentices are beginning to master the trade.”
An inglorious end to a fine clock-maker. Now to Bob’s clock.
Clock face showing Brocot “open” escapement
Bob writes:
the Ansonia “MARQUIS” crystal regulator mantel clock is an eight-day time and strike with open escapement, jeweled pallets, porcelain dial, thick beveled glass and a brass bezel. The hands and pendulum appear original and it came with an old key which is probably a replacement. There are no hairline cracks or chips that I could see in the dial or the beveled glass. The pendulum is the same as the one shown in the 1904 catalog.
Pendulum bob showing faux mercury in two glass tubes
Ansonia listed the MARQUIS in its 1904 catalog. It may have been produced a couple years either side of that date. The original price in 1904 was a whopping $40.00, not cheap for that time period. $40.00 in 1904 is equivalent in purchasing power to $1107.48 in 2019.
The clock measures 15½ inches high and 7½ inches wide with a 4-inch porcelain dial. The case is listed in the catalog as polished brass, “rich gold” ornaments.
Side view of the Marquis
I purchased this clock as part of a large collection. The owner had passed away, and his grandson was settling the estate. The grandfather had opened a jewelry store and clock shop over 73 years ago and the store is still in operation today.
This clock needed a good cleaning, and the brass was badly tarnished.
Tarnished brass base
After cleaning and polishing
The gold ornaments were left intact to preserve the rich patina.
Ornamental features, the legs and crown
The entire clock was disassembled, and the brass parts were run through an ultrasonic cleaner, then polished.
Back plate, coiled gong and hammer
The movement was also taken apart and cleaned. All the bushings and pivots were in good condition. One of the jeweled pallets needed to be adjusted and reset with shellac.
Trim pieces in place
It took about a week to get this beauty all back together and running again, but it was worth the effort to see it ticking away and keeping great time.
Thank you Bob. A most impressive clock.
The jeweled pallets are made from garnet, a precious stone consisting of a deep red vitreous silicate mineral. Here is an interesting 1905 catalog showing Ansonia’s collection of crystal regulators. Page 24 shows the Marquis with a price increase to $41.80. As Bob pointed out, a hefty price for a clock in its time.
The first day of spring is called the vernal equinox (sometimes also referred to as the spring equinox or March equinox) and it is almost always either March 20 or March 21 though it will fall on March 20 for the next two years in a row. The first day of the spring season is the day of the year when the Sun crosses the celestial equator moving northward.
Spring is often called the season of rebirth and renewal. It is also seen as the time of the year when we Canadians crawl out of winter hibernation and greet longer and warmer days with enthusiasm and renewed energy.
1910 Ansonia Crystal Regulator
In the pursuit of horological interests what will Spring mean for this writer?
This weekend (March 2019) my wife and I are in Fredericton, New Brunswick. Part of our mini vacation is to check out antique shops and flea markets for interesting clocks.
Otherwise, at home I am putting the finishing touches on the servicing of an Ansonia Crystal Regulator and determining next steps for a recently acquired Gilbert tambour clock.
Gilbert tambour style mantel clock circa 1925
Clocks coming up on the bench are an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon for inspection and oiling, another Gilbert Mantel clock for servicing and case repairs and a Jauch wall clock that I am servicing at for a friend.
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II
In June I am attending the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors national conference in Massachusetts (USA) where I hope to interact with like-minded individuals within the world of horology and perhaps learn new things. I am looking forward to it.
It has taken me 6 years to assemble my collection of antique and vintage clocks. Although I have many clocks, wall clocks are my particular favorites. Check out my collection of antique and vintage wall clocks in this YouTube video I made in January 2019.
While browsing through an antique shop in Bloomfield, Ontario my wife spotted an antique glass cased brass time and strike American made Crystal Regulator with open Brocot escapement made by Ansonia. In the 1905 Ansonia Crystal Regulator catalogue it is listed as the Prism at a price of $29.00 which would have been a hefty sum at that time.
Ansonia four glass crystal regulator, after a cleaning
My wife has a good eye for these things. In the meantime, I was looking over the wide selection of Arthur Pequegnat wall and mantel clocks.
What is an American Crystal Regulator?
American crystal regulars were almost exact copies of French regulators complete with stylistic gong block, visible Brocot escapements, round movement plates and beveled glass panels. The French clocks were highly regarded at the time, often had mercury pendulums and were made by Japy, Marti, Vincenti and Mougin. American makers included Ansonia and Seth Thomas. American clocks often had faux pendulums which were commonly slugs of nickel. Though lesser in quality and price they are, nevertheless, quite collectable.
This is a faux pendulum; mercury flows, the metal in this pendulum does not flow
Clock condition
The four glass panels are in very good condition. There is a small corner chip on one glass panel that I noticed several days after purchasing the clock but it is not visible from the front of the clock.
Side view of the movement
The glass was likely damaged when the clock was serviced. Otherwise, the overall condition of the clock is good. The brass was tarnished as expected given its age (1910 or so) and with the help of Brasso cleaner it polished up nicely.
Dial showing Brocot escapement
However, a gentle push of the pendulum produces a few ticks and then it stops. I am not familiar with Brocot escapements and before I do anything I will research the movement before I disassemble it and give it a thorough cleaning.
I will detail the servicing of this movement in a future post.
Regular viewers may recall this post in September 2018. Added are new photos and additional information on this project.
I wrote about this Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock barn find in a previous article. It has been a test bed for case restoration techniques I have never attempted before.
A barn find clock in pieces (next photo) is a challenge for anyone. It was missing some parts and as I began to take an inventory of what I required to get this clock running after so many years I discovered that I had enough to make something of it and whatever was missing could be easily sourced. Those key parts? Not so simple, as I will explain later
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock, a barn find
Ansonia Extra Drop barn find, drop access door is missing
There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.
This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2-inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door which I was missing, opens downwards. Other Drop Extra variations have access doors open to the side. Mine will also open downwards.
Drop door from another clock in open position
I assembled all the pieces I had from the barn find. Missing were small trim pieces, the pendulum bob and leader, the clock hands and verge. But two key pieces are required, the brass dial bezel and the drop door. During the course of making inquiries concerning the missing pieces, the movement was serviced and installed in the case. It is running reliably and maintains a full 8-day cycle.
Regarding the drop door. This is obviously not a piece I could buy from a clock supplier. The first step was to take the measurements and construct the frame. I cut pine wood from an old Ogee donor clock. I began with a door frame. The frame is about 7 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches high leaving a snug fit between the top and side opening.
Using my table saw I cut the appropriate lengths, assembled the frame and then glued the ends together (next photo). I put a weight on the frame for 24 hours to prevent warping. Pine moulding sits atop the frame to accommodate the rosewood veneer.
Pine frame is 7 X 4 1/2 inches
Test fitting the door frame
I cut a single 1 inch piece of doweling with a 3/8 inch crown. The result? Too wide and the crown was too high. The wide trim and high crown meant that the hinges would not function properly and it looked odd.
First attempt; the trim is too wide and too high
I wanted to duplicate the one in the next photo.
Ansonia door from a similar clock in closed position and also showing a narrow molding
I discarded the moulding, kept the sub-frame and made smaller pieces which looked quite a lot better.
I cut a section from 1 1/4 inch doweling resulting in a 3/16 inch crown. My stock Rosewood veneer is only 6 inches wide which I then cut into strips. I veneered the entire 26 inch piece using medium strength pearl hide glue. I used foam blocks to press the veneer into the moulding clamping at each end of the section.
First part of a 26 inch strip after gluing and clamping
Veneering is just about complete
Clamping in stages using sponge blocks; the wood strip allows equal pressure along each section
The veneer was applied in stages since I had only two clamps that were appropriate for this project. After applying the first strip I learned that wetting the veneer on the top side allowed it to take the shape of the moulding. I then cut the strip into 4 mitered sections, glued the sections onto the frame and applied 2 coats of Brazilian Rosewood stain. At first I was reluctant to stain the veneer but using a test piece and applying two coats of shellac I discovered that the shade was too light in comparison to the veneer on the clock case.
Test fitting the 4 sections, prior to gluing
Glued (Hide Glue); weight placed on the moulding and frame
Finial and knob
Two 1/2 inch hinges were used plus a knob salvaged from an Ogee donor clock.
Knob and 3/4 inch hinges
Knob from Ogee clock
Glass added and door in place
The 3/4 inch hinges allow the door to drop down
Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock
It is certainly not perfect and there is much I could improve upon in the next project. I have a door knob that will fit with some modifications (see above) but that is a small project for another day. A glass decal would also be a nice addition.
Beyond this I can go no further with this project. The brass bezel still alludes me though I might have a lead on one from an antique shop owner in Connecticut (USA).
This Ansonia Extra Drop is an attractive but incomplete clock with a interesting story and a test-bed for case restoration.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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