What Makes a Clock Antique or Vintage?

Perhaps you already have a good sense of what you consider “antique” versus “vintage.” But after years of poking around the internet looking for interesting old clocks, I keep seeing confusion over these terms. So, maybe it’s not as clear-cut as we think.

Let’s start with the word “antique.” According to the United States Government (and no, I’m not sure why they felt the need to define it either), an antique is anything over 100 years old. Webster’s Dictionary backs this up, defining an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object from an earlier period, usually over a century old. Even Wikipedia throws its weight behind that definition. So, we can put a pin in that one: antique = 100+ years old.

_{Mauthe time and strike wall clock circa 1895}

Now, “vintage” — that’s where things get messy. According to eBay (and you’d think they’d know), vintage refers to items made between 1930 and 1969. But let’s be realistic: on eBay, “vintage” often means anything older than yesterday, dirty, worn, or vaguely old-looking — especially if the seller isn’t quite sure what it is. The word has been stretched and bent so far out of shape, it’s basically the new “rare.”

And then there’s “collectible,” a word the marketing world loves a little too much. Slap it on a box of cereal or a mass-produced novelty clock and suddenly it’s collectible! Or so they hope. Like “vintage,” the term is often used to create urgency, even when the item in question is neither rare nor particularly special.

In the world of clocks, though, collectors tend to agree on one rule of thumb: if it’s over 50 but under 100 years old, we say it is vintage. That said, there’s no universal consensus. In some circles — jewelry, for example — anything older than 20 years is called vintage. Some even split hairs further with terms like “near vintage” and “true vintage.” What does that mean? If a clock is 48 years old, is it near vintage? And at 50, does it cross the magical threshold into “true vintage”? Apparently, some people think anything made before they were born is vintage.

Personally, I find the 50-to-100-year range for “vintage” a reasonable definition.

But, as with all things, there are exceptions.

Take the 1970 Junghans Astor-Quartz wristwatch. Junghans (still in business today), a company with over 150 years of history, introduced this quartz marvel in 1970. Today, collectors drool over it. Is it vintage? Technically yes — even if it’s quartz. So while many collectors would scoff at calling anything battery-powered “vintage,” the Junghans is a reminder that there are always exceptions worth making.

For me, the mark of a true antique or vintage clock lies not just in its age, but in its craftsmanship. Examine the detail, the precision, the pride of work that went into clocks made decades or even centuries ago. I am thinking of the ornate clocks of the Black Forest Region in the 19th century, and French-made ornamental clocks of the 18th century. That kind of workmanship is rare today. Mass production, like common clocks of the 1930s and 1940s, can’t quite capture the same spirit.

For example, I have an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock. It’s certainly old — but how old? The company produced this model from 1916 to 1941 without changing the design or movement, making it nearly impossible to pinpoint its exact production year. Is it antique? Vintage? Somewhere in between?

Old Is Not Gold

In the clock business, “old is not gold” is a cautionary phrase used by experienced collectors and repairers to remind others that age alone doesn’t make a clock valuable, desirable, or worth restoring.

Why? Many old clocks were mass-produced, especially in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Companies like Ingraham, Sessions, and Ansonia manufactured millions of clocks to meet demand. Just because a clock is over 100 years old doesn’t mean it’s rare or of high quality. Many people are surprised to learn that a clock passed down through their family may be worth very little.

An old clock in poor condition — worn-out movement, missing parts, heavily modified, or water-damaged case — may have little to no value, even if it’s technically an antique. Restoring it would cost more than it’s worth.

Collectors are selective. Certain styles, makers, or features (e.g., unusual complications, artistic dials, elaborate carvings) increase demand and value. A plain, utilitarian 100-year-old wall clock? Not so much.

Some clocks were made using leftover parts, kits, or have been assembled or altered over time. Others are reproductions made to look old. Being fooled by age can lead to disappointment, especially when paying more than it’s worth. For example, when North Americans had an insatiable appetite for antiques, many Vienna Regulators that were sent after the Second War were parted out and reassembled into “Frankenclocks”, a movement from one clock, a case from another, a pendulum from a third.

_{Frankenstein, Gustav Becker, Vienna Regulator}

Final Thoughts

Better still, enjoying your clock is what really counts.

You don’t have to spend a fortune to own a meaningful piece of horological history. Ogee (OG) clocks, for instance, are true antiques — many 150+ years old — and still reasonably priced because of their large production numbers.

Antique banjo clocks are also within reach for many collectors, unless you’re chasing a rare Simon Willard original, in which case your wallet may start to sweat. And even if you snag a “Simon Willard original”, how can you guarantee that it is, indeed, original?

_{Weight-driven banjo clock from the Boston area, circa 1840}

The takeaway? Whether antique, vintage, or collectible, it pays to do your homework. Researching a clock’s origin, model, and movement details can save you from disappointment — and occasionally lead to a delightful surprise.

At the end of the day, labels matter less than love. If you enjoy the look, sound, and story of your clock — whether it’s vintage, antique, or collectible — then it’s exactly the right clock for you.

June 13, 2025 6

How to Photograph Clocks Like a Pro: 7 Essential Tips

There are thousands of clock photos on the internet, ranging from stunningly detailed images to blurry, poorly lit snapshots. As an amateur photographer, I appreciate the effort some put into capturing high-quality images, but it’s frustrating to see clocks photographed in poor light, out of focus, or with distracting backgrounds.

Whether you are showcasing a clock for someone to appreciate, preparing a clock for sale, documenting the history of the clock, sharing photos with fellow clock enthusiasts, or recording for repair or maintenance, good photos ensure that the clock’s details, condition, and story are accurately captured, making it easier to appreciate, evaluate, or restore the antique or vintage clock.

A Missed Opportunity: The Case of the Blurry Bracket Clock

I once saw a bracket clock advertised online. The photos were terrible—blurry, dark, and lacking detail. However, I recognized key features and inquired. As it turned out, I was the only one interested! The clock was in excellent condition, the movement looked like it “came off the showroom floor,” and I got it for a bargain. Had the seller taken better photos, they would have likely made much more money.

_{Shooting a clock in a museum is a challenge because of the dependence on available light, glass enclosures, and viewer traffic}

To help you avoid such mistakes, and ensure your photos truly capture the essence of an antique or vintage clock, here are my 7 essential tips for photographing clocks effectively.

1) Camera Choice: Use the Right Tool for the Job

I use a very old Olympus interchangeable lens camera with a 50mm macro lens—old but highly effective and it has excellent macro capability. Macro lenses capture intricate details like dial markings, movement engravings, and gear mechanisms.
If you don’t have a macro lens for your camera, consider:
- Magnifier lenses that screw onto standard lenses
- Bridge cameras, which are budget-friendly and offer good close-up shots
- Telephoto or zoom lenses used at a distance for better focus
Cell phone cameras are constantly improving, and a high-quality model can capture excellent images. However, cropping and zooming can be challenging since most cell phones rely on digital zoom, which reduces image quality and detail when magnified. In addition, there is less creative control with a cell phone.

Bonus Tip:

Some newer Interchangeable lens camera models feature post-capture refocusing—a game-changer for horologists! This function focus stacks multiple images, letting you adjust the focus after taking the shot.

2) Stability: Avoid Camera Shake

If your camera allows you to adjust the shutter speed, set it to at least 1/100 of a second or faster to minimize camera shake and ensure sharper images.
Use a tripod to eliminate blurriness—especially in low-light conditions. I use a professional tripod which I acquired many years ago and it still performs well.
If you don’t have a tripod, try:
- Place the camera on a steady pile of books
- Place the camera on a secure surface, stage the shot, and use a remote shutter release or a timer to avoid shaking

_{Photo of a clock plate} _{taken with a macro lens and tripod}

_{Museum shot using reflected light to best advantage}

3) Lighting: Good Light = Great Photos

Lighting can make or break a photo. Here’s how to get it right:

Use natural light whenever possible—place the clock near a window so the light falls on the clock for soft, even illumination.
Avoid using a harsh flash, as it can cause glare by reflecting off glass and metal surfaces. If you’re using direct lighting, make sure to position the light in a way that prevents reflections on glass surfaces.
Indirect lighting works best. If needed, use a continuous lighting kit or a softbox for diffused light.
Use reflectors (a white sheet, foam board, or even aluminum foil) to bounce light into shadows.

Cracked center pinion Gilbert — _{A close-up showing a cracked centre pinion on a Gilbert wall clock}

_{Using natural light to illuminate a Vienna Regulator}

Bonus Tip:

If your camera allows lossless shooting in Raw format, shoot in RAW to adjust color temperature in post-processing for accurate tones.

_{Close-up of a Vienna Regulator dial, highlighting its details} _{– shot in RAW to adjust tone and colour temperature}

_{A fleeting moment of sunlight reflecting off the dial} _{of a Scottish tall case clock}

4) Minimize Distractions: Keep the Focus on the Clock

A cluttered background distracts from your subject.
Remove unnecessary objects or use a neutral backdrop (a white bedsheet works in a pinch).
Consider a macro lens with a large aperture to separate the object from its background so as to blur the background and make the clock or part of a clock stand out.

Gilbert model 2038 movement — _{Magnifying a specific section}

_{Close-up shots can highlight details but marks and imperfections as well}

5) Cropping: Less Is More

Crop out unnecessary distractions for a cleaner, more impactful image.
Focus on key details, such as:
- Clock faces
- Movements
- Engravings
- Pendulum design

_{View of a movement with top plate removed} _{– cropped}

6) Composition: Guide the Viewer’s Eye

Good composition makes an image stand out. Here’s how:

_{A fully opened macro lens creates a blurred background, resulting in a dramatic photo}

_{A clock in a natural setting} _{with light coming from behind the camera}

Use a large aperture (low f-stop) to create depth, drawing focus to key areas.
Follow the Rule of Thirds—place the clock slightly off-center for a balanced composition.
Experiment with angles and lighting to showcase details and avoid shooting straight-on.

Junghans Corner feet finished — _{Soft, indirect lighting brings out the intricate details of this bracket clock.}

7) Resize for the Web

Large images slow down websites. Resize them before uploading.
some websites have image size limits. The image will not be accepted for publication otherwise.
800–1200 pixels wide or an image under 1 mb is usually ideal for online use.
Resizing also helps protect your images from unauthorized use if copyright protection is a priority.
If you are a blogger resizing your images before uploading not only improves website performance but also helps conserve storage space on your server. Large image files can take up unnecessary storage, so optimizing them ensures a smoother experience for both you and your readers.

Final Thoughts

Photographing clocks isn’t just about taking a picture—it’s about telling a story. Whether you’re selling, showcasing, or documenting a restoration, good photography enhances appreciation and value.

Do you have any photography tips of your own? Share them in the comments!

March 11, 2025 5

Clearing Up “Vintage” and “Antique” Confusion for Collectors

The Confusion Between the Terms Antique and Vintage

Among clock collectors and owners of older items, there’s considerable confusion surrounding the correct use of the terms “antique” and “vintage.” These terms are often used interchangeably, and more often than not, incorrectly. According to U.S. law, an “antique” refers to items that are over 100 years old.

Webster’s American dictionary describes an antique as “a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object that comes from an earlier period, typically at least a century ago”. Wikipedia supports this view, applying the term “antique” to objects 100 years or older. In short, most sources define “antique” as items that have crossed the 100-year mark.

Rural Nova Scotia antique shop — _{Much of what is found in an “antique store” are vintage and collectible items}

What Does “Vintage” Mean?

The word “vintage,” according to eBay, applies to items that are less than 100 years old but more than 30 years old. However, in everyday conversation, the term often describes anything that is not new, appears worn, or simply looks old—sometimes without any understanding of its actual age or origin. This casual misuse has caused “vintage” to become as overused as “antique.”

Auctions and Marketing Buzzwords

In online auctions, the word “vintage” has become more commonplace. Sellers who know little about the items they are offering frequently label them as “vintage” or “rare,” hoping to appeal to potential buyers. Items that were once considered rare—like the 30-hour Ogee clock—have become much more common with the rise of the internet, where thousands are now available for sale, causing prices to plummet.

Nowadays, a truly rare clock is often one that has significant provenance or is a one-of-a-kind piece.

The Misuse of “Collectible”

“Collectible” is another marketing term that, like “vintage,” has been overused. It suggests that the item is desirable and belongs in your collection, often inflating its perceived value. But just because something is called “collectible” doesn’t always mean it’s valuable.

Jewelry: A Special Category

When it comes to jewelry, anything over 20 years old is frequently classified as vintage. You might also come across terms like “near vintage” or “true vintage,” though there’s no clear definition for these phrases. These terms can be arbitrary, with sellers often assigning their own meaning to them.

Thoughts on Age and Value

Age alone does not guarantee value because the worth of an item is influenced by a combination of rarity, demand, condition, and historical significance. Many clocks that are simply “old” may lack these additional qualities. For instance, mass-produced clocks from past decades may have little value if they were made in abundance (again, the 30-hour Ogee clock) and do not have distinguishing features, craftsmanship, or historical connections.

Also, if an item has deteriorated beyond repair or lacks appeal to collectors, it may not hold much worth despite its age.

Value is often shaped by the significance people assign to it, whether due to its aesthetic, cultural, or nostalgic relevance. Without those added dimensions, something might just be old rather than genuinely valuable.

Case in Point: Dating a Particular Arthur Pequegnat Clock

In my collection, I have an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock that is undoubtedly old, but I cannot pinpoint its exact year of manufacture. The company produced the Canadian Time model between 1917 and 1941, but the movement and case design do not provide a definitive clue to narrow down its age any further.

While I can’t pinpoint the exact year, the clock was manufactured between 1917 and 1941. As we are now in 2024, even the latest possible date for its production (1941, the year of the company’s demise) puts the clock at 83 years old, edging closer to the 100-year threshold that defines an antique. If the clock were produced in the earlier part of that range, it would already be over 100 years old, meeting the criteria for being considered an antique.

Classifying the Canadian Time clock as an antique also acknowledges its historical and cultural value. The clock embodies the craftsmanship and design aesthetics of early 20th-century clocks, capturing a snapshot of that era’s manufacturing techniques and style. This designation also reflects its quality and the ongoing appeal it holds for collectors and historians alike.

If I were to sell it I would classify it as an antique.

What Truly Matters

Whether your clock is antique, vintage, or collectible, the most important thing is that you enjoy it. Ultimately, a clock’s true value lies in the stories it tells, the memories it holds, and the joy it brings to its owner—qualities that transcend any label or age.

October 29, 2024

Tips on selling (or buying) an antique or vintage clock

If you are a collector or simply have a general interest in mechanical clocks and wish to sell antique and/or vintage clocks then, read on. I am not a seller but I purchase clocks to build my collection.

I occasionally sell clocks locally as a way to manage my collection. Most of the clocks I’ve sold have been serviced by me, and my main goal is to recover the time spent on cleaning and repairs, rather than promoting sales on my blog.

The Difference between Antique and Vintage

Let’s begin with definitions. Antique is anything over 100 years old and vintage is less than 100 years but more than 30 years old. Anything that is less than 30 years old may be considered vintage but more often it is called collectible. Try to pass off a 30-year-old clock as an antique and you will turn off a lot of prospective buyers.

Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock C.1870

Clock Terms

When selling a mantel clock, it’s important to use ‘mantel,’ not ‘mantle.’ A mantel refers to a shelf or structure, while a mantle is something one wears. Using the correct terminology also signals that you have a deeper knowledge of clocks than the average person.

A clock with two winding points (with some exceptions) is typically referred to as a striking clock, which strikes but does not ‘chime.’ A chiming clock usually plays a quarter-hour melody, such as Westminster or Whittington, and often has three winding points (though there are exceptions). There is no such thing as a ‘Tempus Fugit’ clock; ‘Tempus Fugit’ simply means ‘time flies in Latin.

A grandfather clock is a clock that stands 6 feet or taller and is not a wall clock. A grandmother clock is a floor clock that measures less than 6 feet in height. Grandfather clocks are also known as tall-case clocks, longcase clocks, or hall clocks.

Gingerbread and parlour clocks are distinct in design, but both are typically classified as kitchen clocks.

There are many other styles but let’s leave it at that.

Honesty and Disclosure

In my view, the most important element in selling a clock is honesty.

Inform the prospective buyer by describing as much detail as possible about the clock without getting too wordy. A clock that is a marriage, a case with a similar but replacement movement, should be stated as such. Replacement glass, newer dial, replacement crowns and finials, case repairs, or full case restoration should also be disclosed, perhaps not immediately in your ad but as a follow-up.

If the clock is running and was recently serviced by a competent repair person, state such in your ad. If the clock is running but the movement requires cleaning it should be stated as such. If it is not running explain why and what issues it might have such as a broken mainspring, missing pendulum bob, missing winding key, and so on. If you don’t know why it is not running, say so but be honest about it.

If you’re selling a clock and don’t know much about it, be honest and say so. Similarly, if you’re selling clocks in general but lack knowledge about them, it’s better to be transparent about that as well.

If your clock is rare, indicate why it is rare and support your claim with credible documentation including its provenance.

_{E. Ingraham shelf clock C.1878, not rare but uncommon}

Establishing a Value

Research auction prices to get a feel for the value of similar clocks that are offered for sale and the price realized. Sources are Kijiji, Facebook Marketplace, eBay, and any number of respectable auction houses.

There will be a range of prices and something in the middle of the range is a good guide though its condition will determine what people expect to pay.

Determining the condition of a clock is an important factor in evaluating its value. The clock’s overall appearance, functionality, and any repairs or restorations it has undergone will all impact its worth. A clock in poor condition generally has a lower value than one in excellent condition, as potential buyers may factor in the cost and effort required to restore it.

Know that a clock is only worth as much as someone will pay. If you price your clock too high you will know it soon enough.

Rare and desirable clocks, as well as clocks with an interesting provenance, will command higher prices.

Clocks also vary in price according to the geographic location where they are sold. Generally, clocks that are made in the same location as the clock is sold will command higher prices. English and German bracket clocks are not as popular in America as they are in Europe and are priced accordingly.

Preparations for Sale

A clock in running condition will fetch a higher price than one that is not. A professionally serviced clock in excellent running order will command an even higher price. A clock case cleaned of grime will present better than a dirty one. Missing hands or dial glass will adversely affect the price. Items such as these can be replaced and parts are available from clock suppliers but it becomes an extra cost for the buyer and for many, it is a deal-breaker.

If you are handy at clock repair, servicing the movement or any case repairs will enhance the value of the clock you are selling. If you have serviced a clock, always be clear about the work you’ve done. Describe in detail the specific repairs, cleaning, or adjustments you’ve made to the movement, as well as any parts that were replaced or restored.

This transparency not only helps potential buyers understand the value of the clock but also assures them that the clock is in good working condition. Whether it’s oiling, replacing worn parts, or correcting any mechanical issues, providing this information builds trust and demonstrates your expertise.

The term servicing has many definitions. Be wary as sellers may claim a clock has been serviced if the only thing done to it is oiling. Among reputable clock repairers, servicing is defined as, taking the movement out of its case, disassembling the movement, cleaning the parts, addressing wear issues/repairs/parts replacement, reassembly, oiling, and testing before reinstalling it back into the case.

_{Sessions Raven time and strike shelf clock}

Visual Presentation

While few cell phones (though some are improving) can capture highly detailed images of a clock, they often suffice for many purposes. However, blurry or out-of-focus photos are unacceptable.

_{Smiths Enfield mantel clock serviced and ready for its new owner}

Several images from different angles as well as a photo of the inside of the clock case are much more helpful than one photo. During the daylight, place the clock near a window and position yourself between the window and the clock to take a series of photos in natural light. If there is damage or wear take close-up photos of those areas.

In general, a dedicated camera with artificial light will produce better results than a cell phone camera.

Clock Description

Crafting an ad is an art in itself. You must be concise and accurate and not overly wordy. There is a balance between too little and too much information. Less information means fewer inquiries from prospective buyers. Too much information with technical terms will turn off prospective buyers. Try to anticipate the questions prospective buyers might have in order to limit the number of follow-up queries.

State the clock’s maker if known, the model if possible, the year it was made, the type, (time-only, time and strike, chiming clock), the style of clock (mantel, wall, shelf, parlour, Ogee, tall-case, etc.). as well as any interesting features, for example, a steeple clock with an alarm function or a clock with a second’s hand. Along with your description state the approximate age. If you do not know, a picture of the maker’s mark on the dial or the movement will assist prospective buyers.

While it’s not necessary to give a reason for selling, doing so can sometimes enhance the ad.

_{1860s era Seth Thomas column and cornice shelf clock}

Where to Advertize

There are a number of ways to sell a clock. Facebook Marketplace is very popular. Other local online for-sale sites, eBay, flea markets, consignment shops, and auction houses are popular places to sell a clock. Setting up an account for most online sites is a pre-requisite but there is usually no cost.

Example of a Poor Ad

Antique clock, comes with key, $250

Example of an Eye-catching Ad

Scaling down my collection. Antique German time and strike clock made by Friedrich Mauthe, circa 1899. Completely serviced in 2019 which includes disassembly and addressing worn parts. Original glass, mild refresh of the case, new wall stabilizers, and new arch piece. Ran for many years in a family home in Parsboro, Nova Scotia. Runs well and keeps good time, original key supplied. $250

Juba Schatz time and strike clock — _{Juba Schatz time and strike mantel clock}

Final Remarks

While selling a clock can be a frustrating experience, it can also be quite satisfying. I choose to sell locally to avoid shipping costs and the risk of items arriving damaged. Meeting the buyer in person allows me to answer any questions they may have and provide a more personal experience.

Though this is not a definitive guide to selling, I hope these pointers and ideas will help when you decide to sell (or buy) your antique or vintage mechanical clock.

July 9, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #27 – Feet for my Gilbert mantel clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

DG writes

“Hello again Ron,

Firstly, many thanks for your advice. It was extremely helpful. The clock is running, striking the right number of times and back in its case, adjusted for beat and now just getting it to keep reasonable time. I made up two pivot locators (a good suggestion) from wire, one heavy-duty to get the centre pillar in place (it always seemed out of alignment!) and another to adjust the pivots. I had trouble in getting some of the pivots to stay in place long enough to close the front and back plates as I went along so resorted to some Blu Tack on the bottom bush to hold them – not very professional but I couldn’t think of anything else. Getting the strike to work as it should was a total challenge and took me a long time but I got there in the end (probably the most satisfying part of the whole business). I am afraid it wasn’t a very professional restoration but I learnt a lot about Gilbert clocks in the process!

The date stamped on the movement is 1914. I’ve attached a photo of the front of the clock. It looks to me as though it had something attached to the bottom, front corners (there are two pin holes each side) which I am guessing were feet. Have you any idea what these might have looked like? Looking at pictures on the Internet there seem to have been slightly different styles as well as gold and a dark antique look, on Gilbert clocks. Any idea where I might find some – eBay?

Once again, many thanks.”

My reply

“It is certainly a good feeling putting a mechanical clock back together and have it in working order. If you can manage a Gilbert clock you can handle just about any American time and strike movement.

It is probably very similar to this clock https://www.duetimeblog.com/gilbert-mantel-clock/

which has a piecrust dial instead of the plain dial on your clock. You are correct. It would have had feet at one time. If one went missing I suspect they were all discarded.

Finding feet exactly like them will be a challenge. eBay is one source. Though not quite the same style something like these might work for you. https://timesavers.com/i-9882301-mantel-clock-cast-feet-4-pieces.html

Ron”

September 15, 2020

Sessions electric table clock refinishing – a father-daughter project

In light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19

Finish almost completely gone, right side

My daughter found this vintage Sessions electric table clock, a model 3W and gave it to me as a Christmas gift. It is made, by the Sessions Clock Co. Forestville, Connecticut in 1936 and sold in Canada (a Canadian Standards Approval sticker is on the back).

On the back, it states that it consumes 2.5 watts, I guess they couldn’t call it model 2.5! It was probably a very affordable clock in its day and available almost anywhere.

At 4 1/2 inches tall and 8 1/4 inches wide, it would fit on any countertop, bookcase etc. but it lacks an alarm it would not be a suitable bedside table clock. There is only one control in the rear, a push-and-twist-in knob that sets the time. Pretty simple!

Everything else, the face, hands, brass bezel were in great shape but the finish on the case had almost completely worn off. It is one block of wood and likely pine and likely tinted lacquer.

My daughter and I chose to work on the finish together. We stripped the case down completely and applied a light walnut stain. Several coats of shellac followed by sanding with 0000 steel wool between coats and finishing with paste wax completed the project.

The result is a richer, darker finish, more in keeping with the original. Given that it runs so well a refinish is a complement to a very simple but stylish desk clock.

May 15, 2020

Sessions electric table clock, model 3W

Back of clock showing patent dates, CSA decal, adjustment knob and cord

Though my collection consists of mechanical clocks exclusively, now there is an exception, a vintage Sessions electric table clock, model 3W with sweep second hand, made, of course, by the Sessions Clock Co. Forestville, Connecticut in 1936 and sold in Canada (a Canadian Standards Approval sticker is on the back).

Also on the back, it states that it consumes 2.5 watts, They couldn’t call it model 2.5! It was probably a very affordable clock in its day and available almost anywhere.

At 4 1/2 inches tall and 8 1/4 inches wide, it would fit on any countertop, bookcase etc. although because it lacks an alarm it would not be a bedside table clock. There is only one control in the rear, a push-and-twist-in knob that sets the time. Pretty simple!

It arrived with a missing plug, a detached minute hand and a finish that was almost completely worn off but the convex glass, face, brass bezel and motor are all in very good condition.

Continue reading “Sessions electric table clock, model 3W” →

January 4, 2020

Gilbert 2038 tambour clock with Normandy Chime – servicing the movement

I have worked on Gilbert movements previously and each one has slight differences. This one has a rod gong with two striking hammers. Disassembly was routine but required the removal of some parts to separate the plates.

The Gilbert Clock Company began making clocks in December of 1828 and produced clocks over a span of 130 years.

This is the model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert in its marketing called a Normandy Chime. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. The “Normandy Chime” was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France.

In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.

Servicing the movement

Continue reading “Gilbert 2038 tambour clock with Normandy Chime – servicing the movement” →

July 29, 2019

Gilbert model 2038 8-day mantel clock with Normandy Chime

My wife was going through the online catalogue of an estate auction recently and found an attractive vintage Gilbert tambour style clock.

“Are you interested?” she said. “Sure”, I said, “put a maximum bid of $35”. We won the bid at $25 + tax and buyer’s premium, so, still under $35 CDN. Would I have paid more? Not likely. However, it is a handsome “Napoleon hat” styled clock but they were plentiful and cheap at the time and not particularly valuable or desirable today despite the fact that it is almost 100 years old.

Continue reading “Gilbert model 2038 8-day mantel clock with Normandy Chime” →

May 13, 2019

Dry home and clock case issues

Winter, along with the dry conditions of a typical Canadian home, can play havoc with wooden clock cases. In Canada we generally shut the doors and windows to keep the cold air out from mid November to mid March and we may stay inside for days at a time. During our Canadian winter we have difficulty controlling indoor humidity. Most modern homes have a commercial style air-exchanger that is designed to control relative humidity but it can only do so much.

I have dozens of clocks and most do not seem to mind the changes in humidity from season to season other than a rate adjustment. Those vintage clocks that are adversely affected tend to be clocks with thin veneers that separate from the frames of the cases. Less affected are Ogee clocks with thicker veneers.

My Ingersoll-Waterbury time and strike clock from the mid 1940s is a 70 year old clock and not a particularly valuable one to begin with but has been affected with peeling veneer. The peeling veneer is unsightly and must be addressed.

I am not opposed to using modern materials to repair a vintage clock and in this case yellow carpenters glue was used to close the gaps on both the left and right rear of the case. Yellow carpenters glue has a bonding strength of 3 tons and for maximum effect is should be clamped for 24 hours.

Both sides of the case were splitting open. The right was slightly worse than the left. Although I have several clamps I only had one to spare for this little project so, the job was spread over a few days.

Wax paper is placed between the clamp and the veneer to prevent the glue from adhering to the clamp itself.

Once the glue has bonded, the case is lightly sanded in the affected areas, the remaining cracks treated with wood filler and touched up with a dark stain.

Stain-able filler in the small cracks that remain

Two coats of shellac are then applied.

Not perfect but an improvement.

Clocks and museums

I am not fanatical about humidity as far as my collection is concerned but museums go to great lengths to control humidity. In museums temperature and humidity are interrelated, and must be monitored and controlled in conjunction with one another towards the goal of preservation. Room temperature is usually established according to the needs of visitors, and is set between 18 and 20°C. The relative humidity for the correct conservation of the works displayed usually lie in the limited range between 45 and 50%.

Clocks react to humidity differently. Clocks with wood pendulum rods need seasonal adjusting as the wood contracts and expands with changes in humidity. Wall clocks that have tight doors in the summer are easier to open in the winter as wood contracts.

High humidity can be mitigated through the use of humidifiers if there is sufficient concern about dry air and its effect on clock cases. It is a good option in the winter months.

If you have a modest collection of clocks I would not worry about humidity issues but you can be assured that seasonal changes can have an affect on your clocks.

April 19, 2019

Gilbert tambour clock with Normandy Chime – movement servicing

This Gilbert tambour style mantel clock is model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert called a Normandy chime. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. Gilbert called this the “Normandy Chime” as it was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France. In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.

Whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area, and for good reason

The Movement

And now to service the movement.

Dis-assembly of the movement is done in the conventional manner with the exception of two items. Both the striking disk (upper arrow) which runs off the cam wheel and the passing strike L bracket (lower arrow) which runs off the centre cannon are friction fit and must be pulled off beforehand to work on the movement. I don’t have a puller but two small screwdrivers positioned across from each other will lift the parts off with minimal effort. Do not polish the ends of these two rear pivots.

Arrows showing striking disk and passing strike L bracket

A prior examination of the movement revealed that it is generally good shape. Overall, the lantern pinions are in good condition with minimal wear. There has been extensive bushing work completed in the past. I see six replacement bushings on the back plate and seven on the front for a total of thirteen which suggests that there was a lot of wear. They are all in very good condition which tells me that the work was done fairly recently.

It also tells me that whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area and for two reasons. It is a tough one to fix because there is so little brass to work with and there is not a lot of torque on this wheel so it can be left as-is.

Although the following photo does not show it well, there is a lot of play in the bushing hole. This is the only one that is addressed in this servicing because I wanted to ensure good meshing of the motion works gears.

To address the motion works bushing I sought advice from my colleagues at the NAWCC forum site with comments ranging from doing nothing to immediate replacement. The best advice came from a member who suggested I install a smaller diameter bushing and broach out the hole to fit the pivot and that is exactly what I did. A #46 Bergeon bushing was chosen with a diameter of 3mm and an inside diameter of 1.30mm. The pivot is 1.48mm and the result is a side wall that is about 0.80mm. This should allow the gear to mesh nicely and since there is not a lot of torque on this gear the fix should last a long time.

Re-assembling was straightforward. There are no helper springs on this movement so there was no tension pushing on the levers. The only adjustment I had to make was to pull the movement slightly apart to correctly align the stop pin to the stop lever so that the movement strikes as it should.

Arrow showing stop pin (my healing thumbnail from a mainspring that let go)

Since the movement has a Normandy chime the striking hammers are located outside and to the bottom of the movement.

Striking hammer assembly for Normandy Chime

The final process in re-assembly is to attach the hammer mechanism. But before doing so two parts are re-attached, the strike wheel and the L bracket which are pushed back into place. Once in place they can be moved slightly to sync the hourly and half hour strike.

Some folks give Gilbert movements a bad rap but they are not much different than a Sessions, or similar inexpensive movement of that period and the fact that this one is still functioning after over 90 years has to say something for its engineering.

March 28, 2019

Schatz W3 – Installing an 8-rod chime block in a custom made clock case

Some time ago I bought this movement without a case.

Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body

I discovered this Aug Schatz & Sohne W3 (circa 1960) movement at a local antique store for under CAN$20. My wife said, “You should buy that, maybe you can make a case for it”. “Hmm”, I thought; that would be above my pay grade. The movement looked interesting and it was not expensive so, why not! But, having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body but I was confident that one day I would have the solution.

This is a type W3 movement. “W3” refers to three chime tones, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster.

Rear plate of the W3 movement showing chime selector and chime/strike hammers

I put out a plea and two people contacted me to say they had a case that would fit. One lived in Australia and the cost of shipping the case was too high. Another corresponded twice but I sensed he realized that his case would not fit. So, I put the movement away. On a positive note it runs well.

Schatz and Sohne W3 movement installed in a custom case

The pursuit of a custom made case

In the spring of 2018 my son’s girlfriend suggested that her grandfather could build the case. He loves doing this kind of work, she said. Although skeptical at first, I accepted her offer. Though a skilled craftsman her grandfather is over 90 years of age but spends as much time as he can in his woodworking shop in rural Virginia. He agreed to do the work. I sent the measurements to him but he preferred to have the movement in hand so it was sent to Virginia. He was able to use the movement as a guide in constructing the case. The clock was returned to me in December 2018 and it looked absolutely perfect.

Now to the installation of the chime block

The dimensions of the case allowed ample room to place a chime block. The block and rods are 7 1/2 inches long but even so there was not much room to spare on one end. The 8-rod chime block is from a Canadian clock supplier and is designed for a Hermle triple chime movement. There are not a lot of 8-rod chime blocks available through suppliers and given that I had little choice I had to assume that it would work for my clock and it does!

This video describes the placement of the chime block and some experimentation to achieve the optimum sound.

The tapered sections of the rods are an inch long and the hammers must be positioned to strike the wide point of the rods for best results. The oak base was trimmed to fit, allowing for about an eighth of an inch between the rods and the hammers. To close the distance to the rods the hammer wires are bent and centered on the rods. As they are brittle, chime rods should never be bent!

Chime block and oak piece forming the base

Once I was satisfied that the chime block was correctly positioned the block was secured. First I screwed the chime block to the hardwood base with 4 brass slotted screws. And finally, I secured the chime block through the base using two 1 1/4 inch slotted screws through pre-drilled holes.

I gave the case one more coat of shellac before putting it on display.

I am impressed with the outcome. Not all movements have such a happy ending.

March 5, 2019

A Smiths Enfield mantel clock comes back to life

Smiths Enfield mantel clocks are highly regarded by beginning clock collectors due to their popularity, abundance, and durable movements. For amateur clock repairers, they offer relatively few challenges.

I acquired my Smiths Enfield time-and-strike clock in 2013 from a young clock tinkerer in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, but it was never a reliable runner. It would only run for a few minutes before stopping. Eventually, the clock was set aside and left in a corner of my shop.

_{Post war English time and strike movement}

While not an especially attractive clock it embodies the utilitarian design typical of post-war English clocks from the late 1940s and early 1950s.

After several months and armed with new knowledge of clock repair, it was time to take a second look.

About Smiths Enfield

The Enfield Clock Company (London) Ltd. was established in 1929, with its first clocks sold in 1932.

The company utilized modern assembly line techniques to manufacture and assemble its clock movements, inspired by the American system of automated factories. Initially, clocks were sold wholesale and for export, with the movements supplied to shops that would then assemble the cases themselves. Enfield took pride in producing “British-made” clocks. However, in 1933, facing difficulties competing on price, the company was sold to Smiths Industries, which led to the name change to “Smiths Enfield”.

In 1935-1936, they introduced a striking 14-day clock in a Jacobean Oak case, which helped solidify the company’s position in the market. With the outbreak of war in 1939, the factory shifted to wartime production. While clock production continued, material shortages became a significant challenge.

After the war, American machines were allowed to be kept and production of the 53mm movement re-commenced. Production was later moved to the Smiths factory at Cricklewood and then later to their Welsh factory in about 1955. Under Smith Industries the production line was changed to watches. Ultimately all clock production was phased out and the company closed shortly thereafter.

A New Suspension Spring?

I serviced the clock in 2015, and it needed bushing work. Since the wear wasn’t severe, I thought I could delay it for another two years. However, the clock has not been running since then. At the time, I knew little about the purpose and function of a suspension spring, and since I assumed the one that came with the clock was correct, I thought there must be another issue causing the clock to run poorly.

It’s time to revisit the suspension spring to determine if that’s the issue.

Over the past four years, I have accumulated an assortment of suspension springs and, through trial and error, found one that is either correct for the movement or very close.

The suspension spring has a mounting hole on one end and a small T-bar on the other where the pendulum hangs. I replaced the old spring with a shorter, more flexible one. As a result, the clock started running. In the first week, it lost about five minutes, but after making minor adjustments to the pendulum length, the timekeeping improved with each change.

The takeaway from this is that the correct suspension spring is crucial to whether a clock runs, and it should be considered as one of the potential reasons when a clock is not working.

February 26, 2019

Best clock moments of 2018

2018 was a successful year for my horological hobby in many ways. I met interesting people with fascinating stories, discovered new antique clock sources and had fun along the way. The best clock moments, in no specific order, during 2018 were:

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton

Finding an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton double-spring time-only wall clock was a big plus. This clock has been on my wish list for 5 years and I finally found one in excellent condition and the price was within my budget. This brings to seven Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection.

Seth Thomas #2 Regulator

The Seth Thomas #2 has been on my wish list for 5 years as well. This single weight-driven, time-only wall clock is from the 1920s. It is Mahogany veneered and like the Moncton is in very good condition. It is now hung in my front entry way.

August Schatz & Sohne W3 shelf clock

In August 2017 I asked for help finding a case for my Schatz movement after locating it in an antique store. Little did I realize that I would eventually have that case.

This is the result when you ask a 90 year old cabinet maker and joiner from Virginia to make a case for an August Schatz & Sohne W3 triple chime movement.

A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem

Selling clocks

I sold two clocks this year not because I did not like or appreciate them but I must pare down my collection to allow space for new acquisitions. The Juba Schatz “bim-bam” time and strike mantel clock was one

and the other, a Mauthe Westminster mantel clock.

Acquiring new tools

Aside from small hand tools acquired this year, the most significant purchase was an L&R Ultrasonic cleaner which does a terrific job of cleaning clock parts.

Setting up and organizing my workshop

I managed to create space in my basement for an area to work on clock cases and other related woodworking tasks. A new drill press is on the far bench to the left.

Cuckoo clock

My first cuckoo clock was a gift from my cousin this past year. It is in good working order but it will need a new set of bellows which will be one of my summer projects in 2019.

Antiquevintageclock.com

I am pleased that my blog has also been very successful with over 93,000+ total views. I would like to thank all those who commented on articles and those who sent me letters concerning their particular clock issue.

I look forward to this new year and I am sure that 2019 will be an equally successful year as I further my horological pursuits.

January 3, 2019

Happy New Year Everyone (and not just clock lovers)

The bad news is time flies. The good news is you’re the pilot

Ringing in the New Year is for reminiscing, reliving, looking back and looking forward.

As champagne corks pop, glasses are raised and fireworks explode into the sky, it is important to recognize the special symbolism this holiday brings with it. Amid promises of new beginnings and fresh starts comes a time of reflection and resolutions that more often than not tend to be short lived. Whether your goals consist of losing a little weight or improving your relationships with loved ones, it can make all the difference when hopes are transformed into words and actions.

Happy New Year clock lovers everywhere. Where will your horological journey take you in the months to come? Will it be finding that special clock, finally servicing mom’s favorite mantel clock or buying that unique clock repair tool?

Perhaps you have made resolutions that are not necessarily clock related and if so, avoid disappointment by making them specific, measurable, attainable, realistic and time-framed.

We all get the exact same 365 days. The only difference is what we do with them. There is an old Rolling Stones song called Time Waits For No-one and these two lines come to mind for this time of the year.

The dreams of the night time will vanish by dawn
And time waits for no one, and it won’t wait for me

The best to you and yours in 2019.

December 31, 2018

Why are antique & vintage clock prices all over the map?

A few months ago I was following a NAWCC thread on the volatility of clock prices and thought I would echo comments from some of the posters as well as my own thoughts on why clock prices are seemingly all over the map.

Market conditions and demand play a significant role. I have watched sadly as prices for many early American clocks have plummeted yet high end clocks have retained their value. Theories abound including tough economic times and the newer generation’s rejection of anything old.

As one poster said, “How is a price arrived at? It is a murky and confusing process. People use a number of metrics including a price consistently achieved at auction and their own experience buying and/or selling. Most offer clocks for 2 to 3 times what they expect to receive knowing that they will be negotiated down because it is much harder to mark something up. It is a very inexact science and a source of much debate. An object is ultimately worth what someone is willing to pay.” That’s especially true of a truly rare clock for which there is no real comparison. The term “rare” is difficult to define but rare is what most “experts” generally agree upon.

However, what was once considered “rare” based upon the largely anecdotal experience of persons whether they are dealers, collectors or auctioneers has been changed by the “eBay effect” where rarity is challenged by many examples offered for sale. It has been a real game changer.

Sperry and Shaw New York style for $75 — Sperry and Shaw New York style clock for $75

Another poster said, “Many people who deal in antiques and collectibles cannot know everything.” It is especially true in the blossoming low end line of antique shops which are no different than flea markets and junk shops. Many of these stores rely on impulse buying and clock experts are not their target customer.

The poster went on to say, “These clocks are not intended be sold to a serious collector, but the impulse buyer will make the clock purchase based on any number of factors – decorative; “That steeple clock would fit perfectly on the mantel” or “We don’t care that it might not work, it is for show only” or nostalgic; “We always wanted an old clock and we can now afford it”. You cannot discount the value of being able to see the object up close, smell it, touch it and hear it tick and or strike.”

A true clock store, usually with repair services, commands high prices for their wares, but the clocks usually come with a guarantee and the comfort of knowing that it will work well and will do so for years to come. Internet stores lack the fixed and variable costs (and reputation) that a brick and mortar establishment has and, all other things being equal, can offer their product at a lower cost. However, to make a true cost comparison, one should add the cost of shipping, packaging, handling and insurance that will need to be paid by the purchaser.

I cringe as I walk into some of these shops. Most antique malls that I’ve discovered charge a monthly rate plus a commission percentage that result in significant markups. I spotted a Mauthe box clock priced at $300.00. It had a marred dial, broken beveled glass panels and marked “as-is”. When I asked the dealer about a better price, his answer was to knock 10% off. I walked away shaking my head.

There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects there is a price range that most would consider reasonable. I have paid more for some clocks than they are worth but armed with increased knowledge I can now make more informed decisions in the future. Caveat Emptor is the principle which should guide every buyer. The buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Education is the key as an informed buyer will make much better choices.

October 7, 2018

Antique Grandmother Clock in Immaculate Condition

Chinese time and strike wall clock that seller calls a grandfather clock

Antique Grandmother Clock in Immaculate Condition

I am selling my wife’s grandmother clock because it does not suit the decor of our new home. She has treasured this antique for years and doesn’t want to part with it. Please make my execution as painless as possible and buy this clock quickly. Keeps perfect time and has no scratches on the cabinet.

This ad will be removed when I am executed…………..actually just before ,,,,,so purchase this clock now

This is a Chinese clock with a calendar feature, circa the 1960s. The ad refers to it as an antique. It is not!. Vintage, perhaps. The ad refers to it as a grandmother clock. It is not!

CraftLine grandmother clock — Grandmother clock by CraftLine circa 19780; a little shorter than a grandfather clock

The seller is asking $150, five times more than it is worth. It’s probably fairly reliable, looks well cared for and I would take it if it were given to me.

“Executed”. Is that funny?

August 31, 2018

Vintage alarm clock – they say rust never sleeps

Vintage Alarm Clock. Other than the rust, everything about it appears to be intact. May still work, just leaving it as is

Yeah, about that rust!

August 17, 2018

My antique clock stopped, what do I do?

An antique clock stopping unexpectedly can be frustrating, especially if it has been running smoothly for years. However, a stopped clock doesn’t always signal a major problem. In many cases, the issue can be resolved with a little troubleshooting and basic maintenance. Whether it’s a cherished family heirloom or a recent addition to your collection, understanding the possible reasons behind its stoppage can help you decide on the best course of action to bring it back to life.

Perhaps you’ve recently acquired a mechanical clock—whether inherited, gifted, purchased at an antique store, bought online, or one you’ve had for a while—and, for no clear reason, it has stopped working.

Categories of Clocks

There are four general categories of clock movements; quartz, electro-mechanical, electric, and mechanical. This post focuses on mechanical clocks, whether antique or vintage and if your mechanical clock has stopped, I may be able to help you get it working again.

Running Time

It may surprise some that mechanical clocks require regular winding. Eight-day clocks need to be wound once a week, while 30-hour clocks require daily winding. 31-day clocks only need winding once a month, and 400-day clocks, also known as anniversary clocks, are wound once a year. Additionally, many German and a small number of American clocks run for 14 days before needing a wind.

Kundo standard size 400 day clock — _{Kundo Standard 400-day clock winds with a key once per year}

_{Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 14-day time-only clock}

Winding a Clock Movement

What does winding a clock actually mean? It means providing enough power to a mechanism that will allow it to run for its designed cycle.

For example for clocks with mainsprings, winding a mainspring implies turning the key until the clock winds no further. Time and strike clocks will have two winding arbours, chiming clocks generally have 3 winding arbours.

Clocks with weights have one, two, or three winding points. Absent the odd exception, a time-only clock will have one winding point, a time-and-strike clock will have two, and a chiming clock will have three. If there are no winding holes on the clock face, it is a weight-driven clock and the weights must be pulled up by hand.

In the case of clocks with mainsprings that provide the motive power for the time, strike, and chimes, wind each arbour until resistance is met and you cannot wind any further.

One key will fit all the arbours except the regulator arbour (on clocks that have this feature) which requires a smaller key. Clocks that have a regulator arbour originally came with a double-ended key; the smaller key is for the regulator.

Clocks generally wind clockwise but it is also common to find winding arbours that must be wound counterclockwise.

Over-winding

The idea of overwinding a clock is a myth. If a clock stops after being fully wound, it typically indicates that dirt, old oil, or grime on the mainspring has caused it to seize. Even if the mainspring, once unseized, has enough power, it still needs cleaning, which requires disassembling the movement and checking for other potential issues.

A clock in good working condition should complete its full cycle, whether that’s 30 hours, 8 days, 14 days, 31 days, or any other duration.

_{Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows). The arbour over the 6 requires a smaller key to regulate the clock}

Why Has My Clock Stopped

First and foremost, all clocks require motive power. Winding a clock stores potential energy in the mainspring, which is gradually released over a designed period of time. This energy is regulated by the escapement, a mechanism that controls the release of the energy in small, consistent increments, ensuring the clock keeps accurate time. Weights resting on the bottom of the baseboard will stop a clock and a completely unwound spring-driven clock will not run.

Is the clock in beat? Put your clock on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to its rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, tick….. tock or tock tick…… Put another way, there must be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will not run, or it will run for a short time and stop. A clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.

Is the clock level? There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. If it is a wall clock move the bottom section from side to side till you hear a steady beat. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.

Adjusting the crutch Adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring. Other mantel clocks require similar adjustment to the crutch and instructions may be provided on a label or a pamphlet that came with the clock. A clock with a balance wheel or lever-type escapement rather than a pendulum will operate on a non-level surface.

Have repairs been done recently? Unless you had a friend fix your clock most reputable clock-makers will offer a warranty, typically 6 months to a year. If your clock stops within that time frame, contact the clock-repairer who may offer a few suggestions in the form of adjustments, over the phone before taking it back to the shop. If it still does not work have that person take a look at the clock.

Do you have the correct pendulum? Other than the winding key, it seems to be the item that gets lost the most. If lost or misplaced, ensure you buy a pendulum that is correct for your clock. One too light may mean that it does not run at all, too heavy and the centre of gravity is lowered and the clock might run too slowly. Clock suppliers such as Perrin or Timesavers will have the correct pendulum for your clock.

pendulum bob with adjuster — _{Pendulum bob with an adjuster for a French time and strike}

Something is broken? If there is no resistance when turning the winding key, the mainspring has broken or a click has let go. If the mainspring winds but releases in your hand, the most common cause is a broken or worn click spring. This is a repair that requires removing the movement from its case, taking it apart, and replacing the worn or damaged part. If you are skilled with that kind of repair, go ahead and fix it, if not, a specialist is required.

A loud BANG when you turn the key indicates the mainspring has broken or let go. It may not be as simple as replacing the mainspring. If the mainspring breaks it might have taken out other parts with it such as pinions and gear cogs. This is called collateral damage. An inspection and a full servicing of the movement is the only solution. Occasionally a broken mainspring is the only problem but the broken spring must come out of the barrel. Some movement designs allow the barrel to be removed without disassembling the mechanism. Whether the barrel is removable or not, a correct mainspring must be sourced to replace it and installed in the barrel which is a job for an expert.

The mainspring inside the barrel may also have become unhooked. This could occur if the clock was wound backward or if the hooked end of the mainspring is split or broken. To address this, the clock will need to be disassembled, the spring barrel opened, and the cause of the unhooking identified. In some cases, a replacement mainspring may be necessary.

For time and strike clocks with open mainsprings, the break may be on one mainspring or both. The clock must be completely disassembled, mainsprings replaced, the movement inspected for other issues, reassembled, and tested.

_{Sessions click, brass spring, and ratchet}

Why does my weight-driven clock stop? Ensure that the weights are in their correct location. If it is a new acquisition of a grandfather clock the three weights have a specific location. Look underneath the weight shells for marks indicating their location “L”, left side, “C”, center and “R”, right side. If there are no markings, use a scale to determine the one that is the lightest weight and put that on the left side.

When bringing up the weights to the top of the clock be careful that they are not run past their stops. You should have a full view of the weights on a weight-driven clock once wound.

Antique Ogee clocks and other weight-driven shelf clocks often lack their original weights, as these have been lost or misplaced over time. Eight-day clocks typically have heavier 8 or 9 lb weights while 30-hour clocks have lighter 2 1/2 lb or 3 lb weights. Incorrect weights for these clocks will cause them to stop.

Is the weight cord or the brass cable binding in any way? The cord or cable should be just long enough to accommodate the weights. A cord or cable that is too long will bind while being wound and stop the clock.

_{Gustav Becker two-weight wall clock requires a winding crank}

Some clocks like weight-driven Vienna Regulators can be adjusted by a transverse regulating screw assembly where the crutch inserts into a slot in the pendulum. Turning a screw in one direction or the other will correct the beat.

Final thoughts

In conclusion, if you encounter a unique issue not addressed here, it’s advisable to consult a professional clock repairer or someone with expertise in mechanical clock repairs. Working with mechanical clocks carries a certain level of risk, as the power stored in the mainsprings can cause injury if not handled carefully. On the other hand, weight-driven clocks generally present less risk.

Although this article may not cover every possible scenario, I hope it has provided you with a clearer understanding of your clock’s issue and how to approach its resolution.

August 4, 2018

Tempus Fugit – what you need to know about the worlds fastest growing clock company

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models

Now for a little tongue in cheek.

The Tempus Fugit Clock Company must be doing exceptionally well. Tempus Fugit clocks are everywhere, online for-sale sites, eBay, Kijiji and the like. Type “Tempus Fugit” in the eBay search box and dozens of wall clocks, grandfather clocks and mantel clocks will pop up.

Not only can the Tempus Fugit clock-makers pump out quality clocks they have also maintained a level of quality that is unmatched in the industry

The other day I found this 32″ clock (next photo) for the paltry sum of $30. What a deal! A truly inexpensive entry point for an exquisitely designed Tempus Fugit clock made by some of the worlds foremost craftsmen that you can add to your collection today.

A Tempus Fugit clock for only $30 — A Tempus Fugit clock on an online for-sale site for only $30

Tempus Fugit clock-makers pump out quality clocks and they have also maintained a level of quality that is unmatched in the industry.

The factory is located in Timeville, Canada. I had a chance to visit the factory this spring and was able to converse with the owners, I said to Mr. Tempus and Mr. Fugit, “Your building could use a paint job”, to which Mr Fugit replied, “Don’t worry about it, clock-making is our strength”

Tempus Fugit Clock Co. factory in Timeville Canada

They graciously permitted me to install C and AA batteries in some of the movements on the factory floor. What a thrill! I really got a charge out of it. The ~~40,000 sq ft~~ 400 sq ft factory floor is abuzz with activity. Placards of inspiration are everywhere such as “Time is on your side”, Time marches on” and “Time Flies”. The company also makes mechanical clocks. Here, a worker has all the movement parts laid out prior to assembly.

Gustav Becker and E. Howard might be great names in the clock world but Tempus Fugit always rises above them.

Anyway, back to repairing and restoring clocks. As they say at Tempus Fugit, “Time Flies” ……..or is it “Time Flees”?

July 26, 2018

Tick Talk Tuesday #15 -what size clock key do I need?

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

CM writes,

“Hello, I just read your article about keys for wind-up clocks. I have a parlor clock that belonged to my parents. It is on the wall, has a pendulum & requires winding. I believe that it is from the early 1980’s. And made by The Time Mfg. Co. However, I do not have a key – seems that it was lost prior to my getting it. Can you tell me what kind of key I need to get for it? And do you have any that would fit my clock that I could purchase? Thank you so much & have a great day.”

My reply,

“Hi CM. Thanks for coming to my blog. If it is made in the 1980s it is likely Chinese or Korean but it is hard to tell unless I see a photo. If I am correct these are 31 day movements. You could measure the arbours which will tell you the size but it likely takes a #6 or a #8 key which you can find here.”

June 19, 2018

Tick Talk Tuesday #14 – Can you tell me something about my Forestville clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

GG writes: “Hello there,,,I was wondering if you know much about my mantle clock and maybe it’s value?

I have attached some photos!”

My reply: “Thanks for coming to my blog. That is one of the nicest mantel clock cases I have seen on a Forestville and it appears to be in good shape.

Forestville is a Canadian Company based out of Toronto. They went out of business in 1979. They did not make their own movements instead sourcing them from England, France, the US and Germany though they made their own clock cases.

GGs clock showing German made movement and pendulum bob

You may or may not know that Forestville was called the Blackforest Clock company prior to WWII. So, you have a post war clock made in the late 1940s or early 50s. Later on In the 1950s Forestville went from using pendulums in their clocks to balance wheels (no pendulum). Forestville also sourced German movements exclusively after the war. Your movement (the brass works) was likely made by Mauthe or Hermle, both well known and well respected German companies.

You have what is known as a time and strike Bim-Bam clock. It strikes the respective hour and once on the half hour but makes a distinctive “Bim-Bam” sound as a result of one hammer striking one rod while the other two strikes two rods simultaneously.

Unfortunately there are thousands of similar clocks and Forestville clocks are not particularly distinctive but a clock such as this in good running condition might fetch about $100.”

GG writes back to explain that the movement is an Enfield from England which stands to reason if it was made immediately after the Second War.

May 22, 2018

Kundo 400 day oval anniversary clock – let’s get this thing working!

Of the five anniversary clocks in my collection, none have cost me more than $30. It’s unfortunate because these clocks are truly fascinating devices. They are well-crafted, delicate, and ornamental, driven by spring mechanisms. While many thousands were produced, their abundance is reflected in their low value today. My focus is on collecting the older mechanical models, the last of which were manufactured over 35 years ago, and steer clear of the battery-operated anniversary clocks still being sold.

Among clock repair enthusiasts (horologists), opinions on anniversary clocks vary—some enjoy working on them, while others struggle to develop an affinity for them. I fall firmly into the former group, finding these clocks both intriguing and enjoyable to work on.

Gustav Becker, Haller, and Schatz 400-day clocks are certainly more desirable, better made, and fetch higher prices. While I don’t have any of these makes in my collection, I am always on the lookout for more desirable and collectible models.

Movement before cleaning — _{Movement prior to cleaning and showing verdigris on the spring barrel}

I picked this up for $5 at a local antique store. When buying one of these clocks, regardless of the price, it’s crucial to check that all parts are present, as sourcing a missing part can be nearly impossible unless you purchase an identical clock for parts. Often, the only issue is a broken suspension spring.

Fortunately, this Kundo clock was complete and in generally good condition. However, the suspension spring had clearly been snapped off due to improper transport. Many people either forget about or are unaware that these clocks feature highly effective pendulum locking mechanisms.

These are called torsion clocks because there is a weighted disk or wheel, often a decorative wheel with 3 or 4 chrome or brass balls on ornate spokes, suspended by a thin wire or ribbon called a torsion spring (otherwise known as a suspension spring). The torsion pendulum rotates about the vertical axis of the wire, twisting it, instead of swinging like an ordinary pendulum.

These clocks operate very slowly—in the case of this Kundo Junior, just 10 beats per minute compared to 100 beats per minute or more for a typical pendulum mantel clock. Due to the slow movement of the gears, wear is minimal, and it’s quite common to find these clocks with a broken suspension spring as their only issue.

The movement was disassembled and cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. The mainspring was removed from the barrel, cleaned, and serviced. Otherwise, there was minimal wear to the pivot holes. In fact, I have never needed to install a bushing in an anniversary clock because their slow operation results in very little friction.

Now, it’s time to install the new suspension spring. The suspension spring is a very thin piece of steel running down the back of the clock, designed to twist back and forth while suspending the pendulum balls. It’s crucial not to kink or bend it, as a bent or crimped spring is the most common reason these clocks fail to function properly.

You can purchase pre-assembled suspension springs in kit form—springs already fitted with blocks and a fork—but I’ve found it far more cost-effective to buy the springs separately and re-use the blocks and fork. To ensure accuracy, I consulted my Horolovar manual (I eventually purchased one) to find the exact template—Kundo 5E, in this case. I then unscrew the blocks and fork to install the new spring. Here is an example of a suspension spring from a Kern 400-day clock.

suspension spring installed on a Kern — _{A new suspension spring was installed on a Kern}

Installing the suspension spring requires a little patience. While it is a delicate process, it’s relatively easy to do. It’s best to work on a flat surface. There are screws on both the top and bottom blocks that must be loosened before the new spring can be inserted. The bottom block was a bit stubborn, and a jeweler’s screwdriver is essential—you don’t want to strip those tiny screws.

Use the template in the Horolovar manual as your guide. For the Kern clock mentioned earlier, I had to rely on some guesswork while waiting for the manual to arrive, but once it did, I was able to confirm the measurements. After positioning the blocks, attach the fork and secure it with screws.

Install the bottom block first. Attach the spring block to the 4 pendulum balls with the pin then lock the pendulum balls in place using the locking lever. Some 400-day clocks use a simpler bottom block solution that simply hooks the block into place. Because this one uses a pin it is a bit more frustrating. After the bottom block is secured and locked in place install the top block to the top mount by first slipping the fork over the verge post. In the case of this Kundo it is a small side screw that secures the top block to the mount (saddle?).

I then attached the dial face and the hands then gave the pendulum a gentle 360-degree spin. Not surprisingly the clock failed to maintain its spin. An adjustment was required.

Looking at the top of the clock, you’ll see a screw that can be loosened to adjust the fork in one direction or another. Be very careful not to kink the suspension spring when loosening this screw. Loosen it gently, just enough to allow movement, and make small, incremental adjustments when setting the beat. While you can buy a beat adjustment tool for 400-day clocks, with a bit of trial and error—observing the verge’s action and fine-tuning the beat setter—you’ll eventually find the correct beat. You’ll know it’s “in beat” when the time between the tick and tock is the same. At that point, the clock should run smoothly. Since the ticking is so quiet, it helps to turn off any background noise in the room while making adjustments. I have several loud-ticking clocks in my office, and I stop them to assist with the process.

If you work on enough torsion clocks, a Timetrax or similar beat amplifier will make the task much easier.

The clock has been running for several weeks and is in the process of being regulated. Above the pendulum balls in a regulating adjustment dial. You will see a “+” and a “-“. Adjusting towards the plus side speeds up the clock and the minus slows it down. I recommend minute turns for either adjustment.

There’s some debate about whether or not to oil these clocks, given the slow movement of the gears. While polishing the pivots to reduce friction can certainly be beneficial, I believe a bit of pivot oil is never a bad idea.

As I mentioned earlier, I’m part of the group that enjoys working on 400-day clocks, appreciating their delicate mechanisms and the satisfaction that comes with restoring them to working condition.

May 6, 2018

Blackforest shelf clock (Canadian made) gives me grief but decides to run again

The clock is a 1937 Blackforest Royal Tour commemorative edition shelf clock with an 8-day time-only “plate” clock movement. Plate clock movements are so-called because they were typically used on kitchen clocks with Dutch Delft plates such as this one in the next photo.

Delft Clock from Forestville — Delft Plate Clock from Forestville

The movement is likely German and could have been made by a number of companies. There are no stamps or markings on the movement to give any indication of the maker. Canadian companies such as the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (the Forestville Clock Company after the war) imported German movements before the Second World War and installed them in Canadian made cases.

This clock had been happily running for about a year and then last week it suddenly stopped after a winding. I nudged the pendulum in an effort to make it go, checked to see if it was in beat and level but no luck. I nudged the pendulum a few more times, left it for a day or so, tried it again and still no luck. I was at the point of disassembling the movement to investigate the problem. Two days later I wound it tight and gave the pendulum a push and it sprang to life. I think I know what happened.

I thought I did a good job of servicing the movement including the mainspring over a year ago but apparently not well enough. You may have heard the expression, “you overwound the clock so that’s why it stopped”. There is a grain of truth in the expression because if you wind the spring till it winds no further the mainspring is at it tightest. If there are dirt, grime and rust on the mainspring the mainspring will actually cease in place, hence the clock stops. I believe this is what occurred in this case. Although it is running now it will need to be properly cleaned. In the meantime, I will let it run and see if it completes its full 8-day cycle.

April 28, 2018

antiquevintageclock.com – a new name

From this day onward the new domain for this site is antiquevintageclock.com.

I have been thinking about name change for some time. My reasons are fourfold, to increase viewership, make my site more accessible using search engines, gain more storage space for my photos and have more creative freedom in the design of the site.

In the months to come I hope you, the reader, will appreciate the changes as I offer more content and features.

There may be some growing pains for the first while as I experiment with new templates so I ask for a little patience as I make the new transition to an improved site.

My email address will continue to be ronjoiner@gmail.com although I will explore the benefits of aligning my email address with the site.

Let me know what you think.

April 3, 2018

Old Is Not Gold

Final Thoughts

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A Missed Opportunity: The Case of the Blurry Bracket Clock

1) Camera Choice: Use the Right Tool for the Job

Bonus Tip:

2) Stability: Avoid Camera Shake

3) Lighting: Good Light = Great Photos

Bonus Tip:

4) Minimize Distractions: Keep the Focus on the Clock

5) Cropping: Less Is More

6) Composition: Guide the Viewer’s Eye

7) Resize for the Web

Final Thoughts

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The Confusion Between the Terms Antique and Vintage

What Does “Vintage” Mean?

Auctions and Marketing Buzzwords

The Misuse of “Collectible”

Jewelry: A Special Category

Thoughts on Age and Value

Case in Point: Dating a Particular Arthur Pequegnat Clock

What Truly Matters

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The Difference between Antique and Vintage

Clock Terms

Honesty and Disclosure

Establishing a Value

Preparations for Sale

Visual Presentation

Clock Description

Where to Advertize

Example of a Poor Ad

Example of an Eye-catching Ad

Final Remarks

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In light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19

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Whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area, and for good reason

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Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body

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About Smiths Enfield

A New Suspension Spring?

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A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem

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The bad news is time flies. The good news is you’re the pilot

The dreams of the night time will vanish by dawn And time waits for no one, and it won’t wait for me

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Vintage Alarm Clock. Other than the rust, everything about it appears to be intact. May still work, just leaving it as is

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Categories of Clocks

Running Time

Winding a Clock Movement

The dreams of the night time will vanish by dawn
And time waits for no one, and it won’t wait for me