Tag: servicing

A Box of Parts, and a Special Clock That Journeyed Through Time

Junghans Crispi wall clock

Every old clock has a story to tell — where it came from, who owned it, and the moments in time it quietly witnessed. Unfortunately, as clocks are sold, traded, or passed down, those stories often get lost along the way. The clock may keep ticking, but the people and places behind it fade into mystery. Every so often, though, one comes along with its story still intact, and that’s always special — it connects you not just to the clock, but to the lives that once revolved around it.

The clock I’m about to write about came with a story; in fact, it came in pieces, and that’s where the adventure begins. Piecing it back together wasn’t just a repair job; it was a bit of detective work, trying to uncover what happened to it and how repairs were addressed along the way. Every screw, every bit of wear, had something to say — and that’s what makes this hobby so fascinating.

One of the most remarkable clocks in my collection is a Junghans Crispi wall clock that survived the 1917 Halifax Explosion. I know this because the previous owner told me their family had kept it for more than a century, passing it down from one generation to the next. When it finally came to me, it wasn’t much to look at — just a box of parts and fragments of what once had been. After all those years, I suspect the family decided it was time to let it go, perhaps hoping someone would bring it back to life.

And that’s exactly what I set out to do. Piece by piece, gear by gear, I restored the Crispi to its former dignity. During the restoration process, I discovered that not everything about the clock was original. Most of the case components had survived — including the top crown, crown base, and bottom section, finials, beat plate, many case decorations, the movement, dial and hands, and pendulum — but the frame had been rebuilt. I knew it immediately when I observed Robertson screws on the backboard.

A catalog image from the Junghans website was extremely helpful

The frame was skillfully and carefully crafted from solid oak, suggesting that when the clock fell from the wall during the Halifax Explosion, the original frame must have shattered beyond repair. Despite the excellent woodworking skills, the previous owner knew very little about clock repair, so it was left as an incomplete project and sat in a box for decades, gathering a thick blanket of dust and grime.

Junghans clock in pieces
A box of parts

Restoration included new glass panels, re-staining the case, sourcing a few case parts, and servicing the movement.

Junghans Crispi dial face
Junghans Crispi dial face and hands

When the case was restored and the movement was finally ticking again, I sent a photo of the finished clock to the family who had sold it. They never replied, and I can only imagine they felt a pang of seller’s remorse seeing it whole and beautiful once more.

Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock

Even now, every time I walk past it, I can’t help but picture that December morning in 1917 — the moment when the blast shook the city and sent the clock crashing from its wall in a small North Halifax home. It must have lain broken for decades, silent witness to one of the darkest days in Canadian history. Today, it keeps perfect time once again, a survivor with a story that still speaks through its steady, patient tick.

3

Buying Antique Clocks: The Truth About ‘Fully Serviced’ Claims

If you spend any amount of time browsing online marketplaces for antique or vintage clocks, you’ll quickly become familiar with a common phrase: “Fully serviced and tested to ensure reliable running.”

It sounds reassuring. But what does fully serviced really mean? As it turns out, the answer can vary greatly depending on who’s doing the servicing, and just how seriously they take that term.

The Wide Spectrum of “Servicing”

To some sellers, servicing a clock means removing the movement from the case, giving it a quick inspection, oiling a few pivots, and popping it back in. This might help the clock run for a short while, but it’s a far cry from what most professionals or serious hobbyists would consider a proper service.

Cleaned and ready for the top plate

To others, a full service is a detailed, time-intensive process, one that includes disassembly, deep cleaning, inspection for wear, and repairing or replacing worn components before careful reassembly and thorough testing.

As someone who has serviced clocks for years, I fall squarely in the latter camp. And I know many experienced clockmakers who would agree with this standard.

What a Full Clock Service Should Include

Here’s what I consider a full service for a mechanical clock movement:

  • Complete disassembly of the movement.
  • Ultrasonic cleaning of all parts to remove old oil and grime. There are always exceptions. Some movements should not be cleaned in this way
  • Inspection and polishing of all pivots.
  • Replacement or installation of bushings where necessary.
  • Cleaning of mainsprings (or replacement, if broken or weak).
  • Repair or remediation of any issues found during inspection—worn teeth, bent levers, etc.
  • Reassembly and correct oiling using proper clock lubricants.
  • Bench testing of the movement outside of the case.
  • Reinstallation into the case, followed by additional testing and regulation.
  • Running the clock through a full wind cycle to ensure consistent performance.

When I describe a clock I’m selling as “fully serviced,” that’s the process I’m referring to. Just to be clear, I’m not a clock seller, but I do sell the occasional one to manage my collection.

Enclosed mainsprings after a cleaning

The Problem with Vague Listings

Unfortunately, many sellers—especially on general online marketplaces—use the term “fully serviced” very loosely. Often, no further detail is provided. Did a trained professional work on it? Was the movement actually disassembled? Were any worn components addressed? You won’t know unless the seller tells you.

Sometimes, the work might have been done by an “amateur tinkerer” with limited tools and questionable cleaning techniques. Was this one of those “Duncan Swish” specials? (Clock repairers will know what I mean.) Other times, the clock may have simply been made to run, but not properly cleaned or tested, meaning any apparent reliability may be short-lived.

A fully serviced time-only movement

Red Flags to Watch For

  • No servicing details provided. A vague “fully serviced” label with no breakdown of what was done should be treated with caution.
  • Low price with big promises. If the clock is underpriced but claimed to be fully restored, ask yourself how many hours of professional work could reasonably be covered.
  • Fresh oil but dirty movement. Visible oil combined with dirty plates is a telltale sign that no real cleaning has occurred.
  • Photos showing missing or incorrect parts: missing finials, a mismatched pendulum, missing decorative case parts, etc..
  • Lack of timekeeping data. A reputable seller will often state something like “keeping time to within ±2 minutes per week.”
  • “I’m not a clock person, so may just need adjusting the pendulum“: a vague statement that may mean the clock is not functioning for a variety of reasons.
  • “May need adjustment after shipping”: another watchful sign that something is amiss
  • “Sold as a decorative or restoration piece”: serious mechanical issues, critical parts missing, mismatched parts, possibly quartz movement replaces mechanical movement.
  • Has been meticulously maintained to preserve its original beauty and functionality: without an explanation
  • The clock has been professionally serviced and is in good working order; without an explanation

What a Good Listing Should Say

A reputable seller, or a professional restorer, will usually provide a description similar to this:

“The clock has been fully serviced, which included complete disassembly of the movement, ultrasonic cleaning of all parts, polishing of pivots, bushing replacement where needed, mainspring inspection and cleaning, and reassembly with proper oiling. It has been tested over a full wind cycle and is keeping time within ±2 minutes per 7 days.”

Even better if the seller adds specifics, such as which bushings were replaced, whether the mainspring was replaced and why, or if a particular part was repaired or fabricated.

Advice for Buyers

  • Ask for specifics. If a listing says the clock is fully serviced, don’t hesitate to message the seller and ask for details about what that means.
  • Request more photos. A clean movement is often a good sign. If photos enable you to see inside the case, look for signs of dust, excess oil, or grime.
  • Get a feel for the seller. Are they a clock enthusiast? A professional repairer? Or simply a reseller with little horological knowledge?
  • Consider professional inspection. If you’re buying a high-value clock, consider budgeting for a post-purchase inspection by a reputable local repairer.

In Summary

“Fully serviced” can mean very different things depending on who’s doing the talking. For casual sellers, it might be little more than an oil-and-go job. For professionals and serious hobbyists, it’s a meticulous process grounded in best practices and respect for the movement’s longevity.

If you’re shopping for a vintage or antique clock, don’t be shy about asking what work has actually been done. Clocks are mechanical devices that do wear over time, and like any machine, they need proper care to keep ticking for years to come.

The difference between a clock that runs reliably and one that stops after two weeks may be just a matter of how honest the seller was about what “fully serviced” really meant.

3

How to Safely Remove a Clock Movement from Its Case

If you’re new to clock repair or restoration, one of the first hands-on steps you’ll encounter is removing the movement from its case. This process needs to be done with care to avoid damaging delicate components.

Sessions Beveled #2 mantel clock

Start by taking several clear photos of the clock from all angles—front, back, sides, and inside. These images will be your reference when it’s time to reassemble everything. Next, gently remove the pendulum by unhooking it from the suspension spring or leader. Set it aside somewhere safe.

Removing a movement through the rear access door

I highly recommend using small containers to store any clock parts, screws, or retainers removed during disassembly—there’s no greater frustration in clock repair than losing a tiny screw.

Next, remove the hands. Unscrew the hands nut or remove the brass or steel taper pin holding the minute hand in place. There may also be a brass compression spacer attached to the minute hand. Lift and remove it and the minute hand. The hour hand is friction-fit on the hour pipe; simply pull it off.

The movement is removed from the front after taking off the dial and hands

In some designs, such as those requiring the removal of the movement through a rear access door, lay the clock flat to get better access. As a precautionary measure, it is advisable to remove the glass dial in advance, since placing the clock face down while working on the movement may result in the glass cracking (yes, that has happened to me). If the dial is removed, watch for tiny screws, clips, or pins—and keep track of how it was attached.

If the springs are open and relaxed inside the case, it may be difficult to remove the movement. Wind both mainsprings tightly.

Now locate the movement’s mounting hardware. Most movements are secured with case screws—usually at least four, one at each corner. On some clocks, you must remove the strike block before the movement can be taken out. This block is typically held in place by a large screw on the bottom of the case. In German wall and floor clocks, the movement is often mounted to a seat board and secured with two thumb screws. Simply unscrew the thumb screws and slide the movement forward to remove it.

At this point, you should be able to gently slide or lift the movement out of the case. There are times when the access door is so small that the movement must be carefully maneuvered to remove it.

Once everything is removed and stored properly, you’re ready to inspect the movement for cleaning, bushings, or further repair.

If the clock is spring-driven and still wound, always let the power down using a let-down tool set. However, before doing so, wind the springs, insert a clamp, or wrap a wire around the mainspring to secure it. If the spring is housed in a barrel, letting it down allows the mainspring to relax safely within the barrel. This ensures safety during the removal process and prevents damage from a sudden release of tension.

The movement is removed from the case and is ready for inspection

And now you are ready for the next steps.

Taking it slow and staying organized will save you time (and frustration) later on.

4

The Hidden Dangers of Idle Mechanical Clocks

A lot can happen to a mechanical clock over time. Even if your clock is primarily a decorative piece or a cherished family heirloom you’re hesitant to touch for fear of damaging it, it’s still wise to run it occasionally. Read on to learn why.

An Unused Clock

Surprisingly, it’s not regular operation that wears a clock down — it’s the passage of time and the surrounding environment. An idle clock may seem “preserved,” but several slow-acting processes can do more harm than the gentle motion of its gears.

The most immediate issue is oil degradation. Over time, clock oil (especially natural or mineral-based varieties) thickens, becomes sticky, or even congeals into a waxy film or becomes blackened. This thick sludge attracts dust, forming a gritty paste that can damage pivots and bushings if the clock is later restarted without servicing. Even synthetic oils, while more stable, are not immune to age-related breakdown, though many clockmakers agree they deteriorate more slowly and predictably.

Very dirty movement
A very dirty movement that would be damaged without a cleaning

Another concern is oxidation. Brass plates survive well over time, but steel pivots and levers, especially in damp environments, are prone to corrosion. The longer a clock remains idle, the more likely moisture will begin to affect exposed parts, particularly if the movement isn’t well-sealed or has residual acidic contaminants from old oil. In coastal regions or humid climates, this process accelerates significantly.

Idle clocks are more vulnerable than you think

Idle Clocks Are More Vulnerable Than You Think

When the clock is left sitting, its tiny steel pivot ends are especially vulnerable. Over time, they can begin to pit or even lightly fuse to the inside of their bushing holes — a form of micro-seizing. This can lead to hesitation or jerky motion if the clock is later wound and restarted without proper inspection.

Leather parts such as hammer ends, wooden parts, can also dry out or warp over time. If the case is made of wood, as most are, lack of movement combined with seasonal humidity swings can lead to cracking, loose joints, or swelling that shifts the alignment of the movement inside the case. Warped cases or mounting brackets can throw a movement out of beat without any warning.

This worn pivot is an example of extreme wear

Another issue is that clocks not running are often neglected. Dust collects not only inside but also on and around the movement, often unnoticed. A clock that’s quietly sitting for years on a mantel or shelf might seem pristine, but a peek inside can reveal a surprising buildup of cobwebs, dust, or insect debris. I’ve found everything from spider nests to dead cluster flies inside clocks that had simply “sat for a few years.”

All Mechanical Things Age Better When Exercised – Just Like A Car

All mechanical things age better when exercised. All mechanical things age better when exercised, and a clock is no different than a car in this respect. Letting a car sit idle for months or years without driving it leads to flat spots on the tires, battery drain, stale fuel, and dried-out seals. My advice is to run your clocks from time to time — even just once a month. Let the gears move. Let the escapement tick away for a day or two or a complete cycle (a week if it’s an 8-day clock). It’s not only beneficial to the movement, but it also gives you a chance to observe how it’s performing.

And if you’re not quite ready to wind it fully, gently rotating the hands through a full 12-hour cycle once a month can help loosen things up, distribute any remaining oil, and identify warning signs like stiffness, resistance, or skipping.

A regulating pinion – not discoverable unless a movement is disassembled

Running your clock periodically also helps you maintain a connection with it. You’ll be more likely to notice subtle changes — a sluggish tick, a missed chime, a new sound — all of which can tell you something’s off long before a major issue arises. But even if something is slightly off, a service is a precautionary measure.

In my own collection, I maintain a controlled environment: consistent temperature, low humidity, no pets (I have no issue with pets!), and clean air — essentially a museum-like setting. Even so, I schedule regular health checks for all my clocks as a preventative measure.

I have a lot of clocks and I record work done on them to stay organized. I log every servicing, observation, and adjustment in an Excel spreadsheet. This not only helps me track wear patterns and service intervals but also creates a valuable record I can pass along with the clocks themselves, whether to my children or to future caretakers.

If you have only one clock or just a few, simply make a note on a calendar to remind yourself of any actions taken, whether it’s running the clock through a full cycle or even just moving the hands around the dial. You will thank me.

9

The Myth of Over-Winding: Clarifying a Common Misconception

Broken mainspring for barrel

In the fascinating world of horology, many terms and expressions are often misunderstood or misused. A classic example is the frequent confusion between the words “mantel” and “mantle” to describe certain types of clocks. While “mantel” refers to a shelf over a fireplace, “mantle” is something you wear, like a cloak.

Another pervasive myth is the notion of “over-winding” a clock. How many times have you heard, “It was running fine until I over-wound it”? This phrase is commonly found on clock forums, Facebook groups, and among enthusiasts. However, attributing clock malfunctions to over-winding is a misunderstanding of how clocks operate.

American time and strike clock movement

While it is technically possible for a mainspring to be damaged by excessive tightening—winding it until it’s tight and then continuing to wind it further—this is not the primary cause of most clock failures. The real issues often stem from different sources.

Consider the spring barrel, as shown in the photo below.

When the spring is wound, it coils tightly around the winding arbor, with the other end hooked to a small stud inside the barrel. This hook can become fatigued over time due to repeated excessive winding or the riveted stud can break free, but this is not the typical cause of a clock stopping.

In American open mainspring clocks, what appears to be “over-winding” is often a result of old oil, rust, and dirt accumulating in the mainspring coil. These contaminants can cause the coil to stick and seize somewhat like the action of an adhesive, making it “seem” as though the clock is “over-wound.”

This spring is re-useable

When I receive a clock that is said to be “overwound”, I use a let-down tool to release the mainspring partially or completely, apply mainspring oil generously, and then rewind the clock. This step will help in some cases, but it’s important to note that it doesn’t replace a thorough cleaning or address other potential issues that might be causing the clock to stop.

The letdown key
The letdown key

Disassembling the movement and removing the mainspring allows for a proper inspection. Dirt and old oil can be cleaned, light rust can be removed with emery paper or steel wool, and heavy rust necessitates the replacement of the mainspring. The spring should also be checked for cracks or breaks. Often, a mainspring in good condition can be salvaged with proper care even if there are minor problems with the connecting section of the spring.

I frequently reuse mainsprings in my clock repairs, as long as they are not “set.” A mainspring is considered “set” when it has developed permanent deformations or has lost its original flexibility and strength due to repeated use or overstressing. In such cases, reusing the mainspring compromises the clock’s reliability and shortens its operational cycle.

When a mainspring is “set,” I typically replace it to ensure the clock functions optimally and to avoid potential issues. If I were operating a clock repair business, I would replace the mainsprings as a standard practice and pass the cost onto the customer.

“C” clamps used to contain the power of the mainspring

Another potential issue is the click mechanism. In some clocks, such as those made by Sessions for example, the click rivets can become fatigued and fail. Inspecting and repairing/replacing this component is a common procedure in clock servicing.

Worn click on Sessions movement

When buying a new clock, do not assume it has been recently serviced unless the seller can confirm it. If there’s no assurance of recent servicing, plan to have the movement serviced as soon as possible either by yourself or a competent professional.

Regular maintenance is crucial for any mechanical clock to ensure its longevity and proper function.

“Over-winding” is a myth that often misguides clock enthusiasts. The real causes of clock issues are typically related to dirt, old oil, or mechanical wear, not the act of winding the clock. Understanding this can help in better troubleshooting and maintaining your cherished antique or vintage clock.

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