Tag: hobby

New Haven 30 hour Sharp Gothic (Steeple) – a curious fact

New haven Gothic Steeple clock

This is a recent acquisition bought at a local online estate auction site. It has a curious fact that I found quite intriguing.

My wife and I saw a very attractive colonial style Stickley writers desk and while browsing further through the online catalogue I noticed 2 clocks. One was an IBM style time clock and the other was this, a 30 hour New Haven Sharp Gothic (steeple) time and strike clock.

Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose but we do not get caught up in the fever of bidding

Early in the day we put a maximum bid of $60 on the Stickley desk and $40 on the steeple clock. As we often do, we let the bids stand while we go about our day. Our usual strategy is to apply the most we think we would pay. Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose but we do not get caught up in the fever of bidding. At the end of the bidding day, we discovered that we had won both items. Of course, as auction goers know there is a buyers premium and a tax on anything you “win” which adds to the price.

Stickley is an American maker of fine furniture and is best known for their timeless mission style designs. We are pleased to have won a well-made and attractive little desk that is a great addition to our sun-room. The fact that It is in exceptional condition is a plus.

Stickley writing desk
Stickley writing desk circa 1940
The New Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers

The other win was a $40 steeple clock. Steeple clocks, otherwise known at the time as Sharp Gothics, were made from about the 1830s to around 1900. This is a 30-hour clock which is easily recognizable from the front face by the close proximity of the winding holes to the centre arbour.

History of the New Haven Clock Co.

The New Haven clock Co. produced clocks for over 100 years. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company eventually bought out the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand. Early unmarked movements were Jerome designed.

In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and was succeeded by Edwin P. Root.

In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returned to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.

The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes had declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960. After over 100 years the company was no more.

My auction win

This New Haven clock is in very good condition apart from minor veneer issues on the base and the columns. The clock is also missing the very tip of the right finial although it might be hard to tell from the photo. It measures 20 1/2 inches tall with a 5-inch dial. The movement appears to be original to the case. The dial is original and has some loss that would be expected in a 148-year-old clock. What I thought was a photograph taped to the lower glass is the original tablet. The tablet is interesting because it features a sailboat against Greek (?) temples surrounded by gold foliage on a black background. The design of the tablet was used in other New Haven clocks of the time. Though likely intended for European export the clock found its way to Canada instead.

Eight-day clocks eventually replaced 30-hour clocks 1865 to 1870 seems about right
Lower tablet
Lower tablet

Now for a curious fact!

In my attempt to date the clock I found some information that narrows the time frame somewhat. It has an almost perfect label save for some staining on the bottom left. There is an over-pasted square blue coloured label on the bottom centre from a clock retailer in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. As regular readers know, Halifax is only an hours drive from my home.

The small blue label says, “Thomas D. Spike, watchmaker and jeweler”. I accessed an online database and found that the business was listed in the 1869-70 City of Halifax business directory, however, I could not find how long the business was in operation. Logically, I can assume the clock came from his shop and is from that period.

Thomas D. Spike, watchmaker and jeweler, Halifax, Nova Scotia

According to one source the tapered escape wheel bridge was introduced around 1870. The tablet style is typical of the 1870s, so 1870 is very close to the date it was made.

Label in very good condition
Label in very good condition

The movement is a count wheel strike. The clock runs and keeps time but the strike side fails to stop. Once the clock starts striking it keeps on until the mainspring runs down. This is a common problem. In most cases, the warning wheel misses the locking lever even though the count lever in the deep notch and the maintenance lever is in the maintenance-cam notch. Bending a lever or two is a relatively easy fix but the clock must be dis-assembled in order to make this adjustment.

30 hour time and strike movement
30 hour time and strike movement

However, I must put the clock aside for now as I have a Mauthe wall clock and a Jerome Ogee on the workbench. Once those projects are out of the way I can focus on repairing the veneer and servicing the movement of this fine example of an American sharp Gothic shelf clock from 1870.

Best clock moments of 2018

2018 was a successful year for my horological hobby in many ways. I met interesting people with fascinating stories, discovered new antique clock sources and had fun along the way. The best clock moments, in no specific order, during 2018 were:

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton

Finding an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton double-spring time-only wall clock was a big plus. This clock has been on my wish list for 5 years and I finally found one in excellent condition and the price was within my budget. This brings to seven Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection.

Seth Thomas #2 Regulator

The Seth Thomas #2 has been on my wish list for 5 years as well. This single weight-driven, time-only wall clock is from the 1920s. It is Mahogany veneered and like the Moncton is in very good condition. It is now hung in my front entry way.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2

August Schatz & Sohne W3 shelf clock

In August 2017 I asked for help finding a case for my Schatz movement after locating it in an antique store. Little did I realize that I would eventually have that case.

Rear plate
Rear plate

This is the result when you ask a 90 year old cabinet maker and joiner from Virginia to make a case for an August Schatz & Sohne W3 triple chime movement.

August Schatz & Sohne W3 mantel clock

A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem

Selling clocks

I sold two clocks this year not because I did not like or appreciate them but I must pare down my collection to allow space for new acquisitions. The Juba Schatz “bim-bam” time and strike mantel clock was one

Juba Schatz time and strike clock
Juba Schatz time and strike clock

and the other, a Mauthe Westminster mantel clock.

Acquiring new tools

Aside from small hand tools acquired this year, the most significant purchase was an L&R Ultrasonic cleaner which does a terrific job of cleaning clock parts.

Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R

Setting up and organizing my workshop

I managed to create space in my basement for an area to work on clock cases and other related woodworking tasks. A new drill press is on the far bench to the left.

New work area in basement

Cuckoo clock

My first cuckoo clock was a gift from my cousin this past year. It is in good working order but it will need a new set of bellows which will be one of my summer projects in 2019.

Dave’s cuckoo clock

Antiquevintageclock.com

I am pleased that my blog has also been very successful with over 93,000+ total views. I would like to thank all those who commented on articles and those who sent me letters concerning their particular clock issue.

I look forward to this new year and I am sure that 2019 will be an equally successful year as I further my horological pursuits.

Happy New Year Everyone (and not just clock lovers)

9:04am - 100 years ago

The bad news is time flies. The good news is you’re the pilot

Ringing in the New Year is for reminiscing, reliving, looking back and looking forward.

As champagne corks pop, glasses are raised and fireworks explode into the sky, it is important to recognize the special symbolism this holiday brings with it. Amid promises of new beginnings and fresh starts comes a time of reflection and resolutions that more often than not tend to be short lived. Whether your goals consist of losing a little weight or improving your relationships with loved ones, it can make all the difference when hopes are transformed into words and actions.

Happy New Year clock lovers everywhere. Where will your horological journey take you in the months to come? Will it be finding that special clock, finally servicing mom’s favorite mantel clock or buying that unique clock repair tool?

Perhaps you have made resolutions that are not necessarily clock related and if so, avoid disappointment by making them specific, measurable, attainable, realistic and time-framed.

We all get the exact same 365 days. The only difference is what we do with them. There is an old Rolling Stones song called Time Waits For No-one and these two lines come to mind for this time of the year.

The dreams of the night time will vanish by dawn
And time waits for no one, and it won’t wait for me

The best to you and yours in 2019.

Seth Thomas Alarm Clock – big and ugly but I like it

My wife loves those little craft shops that seem to pop up everywhere. While shopping for Christmas presents in Truro, Nova Scotia, she spotted an attractive Seth Thomas balloon alarm clock. It is not working, said the vendor but my wife knew that her clock loving husband would likely get it running in no time.

Art Nouveau styled Seth Thomas alarm clock

These clocks are not uncommon on online auction sites

Made around 1900, the clock features a metal case with openwork, scrolling details, a rectangular base with a central shell design. The dial is marked “Seth Thomas” to the center and “Manufactured in the United States of America” underneath the six. An alarm bell is housed in the base and yes, it is very loud. The clock measures 7.25″ W x 9.0″ H x 3.5″ D.

Made in US America

Not rare but interesting

These clocks are not uncommon on online auction sites. Though some describe the alarm clock case as cast iron or copper, it appears to be either plated cast brass or more likely spelter. Some would describe the style as Art Nouveau. Art Nouveau is an international style of art, especially the more decorative arts that were most popular between 1890 and 1910.

The dial features Roman numerals, a working inset sixty-second dial at the twelve, a twelve-hour alarm dial at the six and a cast metal bezel with a beaded pattern. The clock features two winding keys on the reverse (though one key is missing as well as one set screw) and is marked “Made in U.S. America.”

Back cover, with keys taken off

I took off the back cover, put it aside and cleaned it. The 30-hour movement with alarm was quite dirty, as expected. A thorough dismantling and cleaning is in order but for now, let’s see if it works.

Back cover removed

Let’s see if it runs

Using Keystone clock oil I applied oil to the pivots and those I could reach in the front without taking the movement out of the case. New oil introduced to old oil will eventually mix and cause an abrasive sludge that will hasten wear but I wanted to determine if the movement was capable of running. After the oiling, I gave the escapement a gentle push and the clock came to life and continued to run its 1-day cycle. The alarm feature works but I am missing the windup key and the time key does not fit properly. I am also missing the hands’ adjustment set key, so, a pair of pliers was used to set the time.

The clock looks great

I cleaned the case with a mild soap avoiding hard rubbing for fear of taking off the plating. The clock looks great and has a pleasant patina.

My wife paid $15 for the clock. Online auction and for-sale sites reveal realized prices all over the map, from $30 to $410. I am pleased that it is a working clock at a very reasonable price and a nice addition it to my modest alarm clock collection.

Tick Talk Tuesday #19 – what is my clock worth?

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Unknown tall case clock
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

CT asks, “Could you tell me if the attached is worth anything? Thank you.”

My reply, “It certainly looks old but it may not be. There are a number of questions that must be asked to determine its value. You may or may not have the answers.

  • Does it have provenance; is there a particular history that might give it a value such as previous owners, a prominent location?
  • Does it have unique features that make it rare or desirable?
  • Who is the maker of the clock, where was it made (country of origin) and when was it made?
  • What condition is it in and is the clock complete; are all parts original?
  • Does the clock have a label, trademark, or name? Clocks that have an identifying label or trademark are more desirable than those that do not.

Unfortunately, in this unpredictable market, it is almost impossible to determine the value of a clock. What you think your clock may be worth may not align with what the experts say and what others are willing to pay.

Without knowing anything about the clock, one such as this that is in fair condition, of unknown origin, parts or pieces missing is not worth much more than something in the $200-300 range.”

The eagle on the clock face suggests that it is likely a low cost, mass-produced American clock.

 

Making a drop door for an Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock

The clock came with no drop door

Regular viewers may recall this post in September 2018. Added are new photos and additional information on this project.

I wrote about this Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock barn find in a previous article. It has been a test bed for case restoration techniques I have never attempted before.

A barn find clock in pieces (next photo) is a challenge for anyone. It was missing some parts and as I began to take an inventory of what I required to get this clock running after so many years I discovered that I had enough to make something of it and whatever was missing could be easily sourced. Those key parts? Not so simple, as I will explain later

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock, a barn find
Ansonia Extra Drop barn find
Ansonia Extra Drop barn find, drop access door is missing

There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.

This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2-inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door which I was missing, opens downwards. Other Drop Extra variations have access doors open to the side. Mine will also open downwards.

Drop door in open position
Drop door from another clock in open position

I assembled all the pieces I had from the barn find. Missing were small trim pieces, the pendulum bob and leader, the clock hands and verge. But two key pieces are required, the brass dial bezel and the drop door. During the course of making inquiries concerning the missing pieces, the movement was serviced and installed in the case. It is  running reliably and maintains a full 8-day cycle.

Regarding the drop door. This is obviously not a piece I could buy from a clock supplier. The first step was to take the measurements and construct the frame. I cut pine wood from an old Ogee donor clock. I began with a door frame. The frame is about 7 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches high leaving a snug fit between the top and side opening.

Using my table saw I cut the appropriate lengths, assembled the frame and then glued the ends together (next photo). I put a weight on the frame for 24 hours to prevent warping. Pine moulding sits atop the frame to accommodate the rosewood veneer.

Pine frame is 7 X 4 1/2
Pine frame is 7 X 4 1/2 inches
Missing drop access door
Test fitting the door frame

I cut a single 1 inch piece of doweling with a 3/8 inch crown. The result? Too wide and the crown was too high. The wide trim and high crown meant that the hinges would not function properly and it looked odd.

Mitered corners
First attempt; the trim is too wide and too high

I wanted to duplicate the one in the next photo.

Ansonia door from another clock
Ansonia door from a similar clock in closed position and also showing a narrow molding

I discarded the moulding, kept the sub-frame and made smaller pieces which looked quite a lot better.

I cut a section from 1 1/4 inch doweling resulting in a 3/16 inch crown. My stock Rosewood veneer is only 6 inches wide which I then cut into strips. I veneered the entire 26 inch piece using medium strength pearl hide glue. I used foam blocks to press the veneer into the moulding clamping at each end of the section.

First part of a 26 inch strip
First part of a 26 inch strip after gluing and clamping
Veneering the moulding is just about complete
Veneering is just about complete
Clamping each section
Clamping in stages using sponge blocks; the wood strip allows equal pressure along each section

The veneer was applied in stages since I had only two clamps that were appropriate for this project. After applying the first strip I learned that wetting the veneer on the top side allowed it to take the shape of the moulding. I then cut the strip into 4 mitered sections, glued the sections onto the frame and applied 2 coats of Brazilian Rosewood stain. At first I was reluctant to stain the veneer but using a test piece and applying two coats of shellac I discovered that the shade was too light in comparison to the veneer on the clock case.

Test fitting the 4 pieces
Test fitting the 4 sections, prior to gluing
Glued (Hide Glue) and weight placed on moulding and frame
Glued (Hide Glue); weight placed on the moulding and frame
Finial and knob
Finial and knob

Two 1/2 inch hinges were used plus a knob salvaged from an Ogee donor clock.

Knob and hinges
Knob and 3/4 inch hinges
Knob from Ogee clock
Knob from Ogee clock
Glass added and door in place
The 3/4 inch hinges allow the door to drop down
Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock

It is certainly not perfect and there is much I could improve upon in the next project. I have a door knob that will fit with some modifications (see above) but that is a small project for another day. A glass decal would also be a nice addition.

Beyond this I can go no further with this project. The brass bezel still alludes me though I might have a lead on one from an antique shop owner in Connecticut (USA).

This Ansonia Extra Drop is an attractive but incomplete clock with a interesting story and a test-bed for case restoration.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2 wall clock

During my travels through Ontario, I acquired a Seth Thomas Regulator #2, one of my newest additions. I discovered this clock in Bloomfield, a quaint village just minutes from Picton, a major hub in Prince Edward County renowned for its many wineries.

I first spotted the clock during a summer visit to the local antique shop and deliberated over the purchase for quite some time before finally deciding to take the plunge in the fall. These clocks are a rare find, and with the price being right and the clock in excellent condition, it felt like an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.

Perhaps best known as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was a fixture in many railway stations across the country during the last century—a testament to its accuracy and dependability. Robust, precise, well-engineered, and reliable, this timepiece was manufactured by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, an impressive production run of 90 years. Few clocks can boast such longevity. It is an iconic American clock, and every serious clock collector aspires to own one.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2, circa 1922

A classic style, the #2 changed very little over the years. However, certain design characteristics help date the clock. The following identification guide describes dial and case characteristics that will aid in identifying the approximate year the clock was made.

Click here for the larger guide;  http://www.clockguy.com

The most distinctive visible characteristic is the design of the base.

The base of the clock

Aside from the distinctive base, all but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear with “T” hands.

The chart also lists the limited run reissue in 1976. Most Seth Thomas aficionados would agree that while the reissue is a handsome and well-made clock that is a testament to the original it is not in the same realm as an authentic Regulator #2 and the prices for these versions reflect accordingly. However, those who have the reissue seem to be pleased with their acquisition.

ccording to the chart, my clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numerals with spade hands, and the bow-tie connecting the wooden dial bezel to the drop is a single piece (earlier versions featured a three-piece bow-tie). The clock includes a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon; however, it is not a true second hand, as it runs off the escapement and takes 80 beats to complete a “minute.”

Measuring 36 ½ inches in height, the clock is veneered in mahogany. The movement is stamped with “77A” in the bottom right corner, with the letter “K” underneath, but it bears no other markings. While some versions of the 77 movement have lantern pinions, this one is equipped with cut pinions.

Are there issues with this clock? Certainly, it is over 90 years old!  There is minor loss on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster and paint splatter on the top of the case not visible from the front. Is it really so hard removing a clock when painting a room!

Is it Perfect?

I brought this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car. Removing the pendulum for transport is not a particularly simple process but if you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator this one is no different. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement.

Both the weight and the pendulum must be removed for transport. There is many a story of broken glass when weight and pendulum are free to move around inside the case. To remove the weight, simply unhook it from the cable wheel.

There are minor issues with the dial-face

To remove the pendulum the movement must be taken out. First, the hands are taken off. In this version, the minute hand is held in place with a nut. Older ones have a pin. There are 8 small screws that hold the dial in place. Once the dial is removed, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail are removed. Four cylindrical column posts hold the movement in place. Unscrew these beginning with the bottom two and lift the movement out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.

The trapezoid 77A movement with maintaining power in this clock looks clean. There is evidence of having been worked on in the past as there are 4 punch marks around the winding arbour to close the hole; a common practice in the past to close a pivot hole. Otherwise, the movement looks very good.

Trapezoid 77A movement

Getting the clock to run reliably was a challenge and it took a week or so to sort it out. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop.

Following a process of elimination, I removed the movement, inspected it for wear, found very little, oiled the pivots, and returned the movement to the case. I installed the dial, then the hands. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop. I removed the hands and dial; left the dial off but reinstalled the hands. Still, it would run only a few minutes. I then took the dial and hands off. I ran the movement for four days to eliminate any underlying issues and to convince myself that the problem lay in the positioning of the hands. The problem was definitely with the positioning of the hands.

On day five, I put the dial back on, then the second hand ensuring that there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the face. Next, I put the hour hand on the pipe and pressed it in far enough to clear both the second hand and the minute hand. I attached the minute hand, inspected it for sufficient clearance, and screwed it in place. I started the clock.

Success at last! Regulating the clock is fairly simple and is achieved by turning the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and in beat to function properly.

I used Murphy’s Soap to clean the grease and grime from the case. I chose to leave the paint splatter intact, as it adds a bit of character to the clock. Additionally, I polished the brass weight and pendulum bob to restore their shine.

The view from our front door

This clock boasts a striking appearance and a rich, illustrious history, making it a perfect addition to the front entrance of our home. Unfortunately, its journey over the past 90+ years remains a mystery.

The question of whether it qualifies as a “true regulator” is a debate for another time.

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton wall clock

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton time-only wall clock

I discovered this Arthur Pequegnat Moncton in an antique store in Bloomfield, Ontario. I had my eye on it during a visit to the antique shop this past summer (2018), thought about it before taking the plunge later in the fall to buy it. These clocks do not come up very often and the price was right.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 until the company closed its doors in 1941. The clock firm was originally founded in 1903 by Saas & Ford but was purchased by Arthur Pequegnat the following year.

Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Arthur Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada. However, the use of city names began to decline in the late 1920s when models such as the Eclipse and Swan were introduced. Arthur Pequegnat also showed his patriotism to the Royal family and to Canada and therefore named a number of models, the Monarch, the King Edward, the Maple Leaf, the Dominion, the Canadian Time and so on.

Pendulum, beat plate & centre cut rounded bottom

Pequegnat made mantel, parlour clocks, as well as Mission, kitchen, gingerbread, tambour, wall, and floor models (hall clocks). In most households of the period, a clock was a decorative status symbol, not just a timepiece, and was displayed in a prominent place in the home—usually the parlour.

Prices increased over the period the Pequegnats were in business but ranged from four dollars for the Midget to seven dollars for the simple round Toronto model, to $112 for the Alberta floor model in mahogany. The wide variety of designs and relatively low prices appealed to many Canadians. Today, the appeal of these timepieces remains as Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors.

This, the Moncton, is the seventh Arthur Pequegnat clock in my collection. This clock is named after a city in the province of New Brunswick (Canada). It is only fitting that Pequegnat supplied clocks to the railway as Moncton was once a rail hub for the Canadian National Railway.

This clock is in good condition overall. It has a 12 inch Arabic dial with simple, bold numbers. The pierced spade hands are attractive and are a feature on many Pequegnat wall clocks. It has a fumed quarter-sawn oak case, is 35 inches high with a hinged 16 inch oak bezel door that swings to the right to reveal the dial. The drop door is 14 ½ inches high by 10 ¾ inches wide and also swings to the right. The clock is 5 inches deep with wall stabilizers on either side of the case. The pendulum bob is brass over iron with an oak pendulum rod. The dial glass appears to be original and has the “waviness” you would expect with glass that is over 80 years old.

View of lower case

Although the lower glass has the same waviness it appears to have been changed out early in the clocks life as the retaining rails look to be replacements. Unfortunately, it is missing the label. Other minor issues are a small scratch on the dial face that is visible when the light is right and a screw hole on the back panel just below the beat plate to secure the clock to the wall. Evidently the stabilizers were not used.

This clock was made after 1916. Those made prior to that date were inscribed “Berlin” (Ontario) on the dial. On 1 January 1917, anti-German sentiments in Canada during the First World War spurred residents of Berlin, Ontario to change the city’s name to Kitchener. This is the only definitive way of dating a Pequegnat clock so, this clock would be between 80 and 100 years old. The Moncton wall clock was manufactured almost as long as the company was in existence.

The Moncton is a 15-day time-only clock with two winding arbours on the dial face. This is achieved by means of two mainsprings both of which are wound at the beginning of the running cycle releasing their power together. Two other wall clocks, the Regina and the King Edward (variant) were also available with a 15-day double spring movement. However, unlike most spring driven clocks that have recoil escapements this movement has a Graham deadbeat escapement which contributes to its accuracy. The seconds hand is not a true second hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. As a testament to its accuracy and dependability many of these clocks were ordered as train station clocks across Canada.

Two winding arbours for double spring time-only movement

The “Moncton” came in two basic styles. One was made for Canadian National Railways and was five centimeters (two inches) shorter than the regular model.  Some such as this one, were fitted with a seconds hand on a separate dial above the main hands. This feature is also found on the Regulator I which was Pequegnat’s most accurate model. The 1st Issue was 33 1/4 inches high by 15 1/2 inches wide with the  triangular bottom. The 2nd issue of the clock has a height of 33 1/4 inches and a width of 16 inches with a centre cut rounded bottom. The 2nd issue clock is also found with cases that measure 35 inches in height such as this one.

Moncton first issue, Roman Numeral dial

The “Moncton” was first featured in the 1913 catalogue and the again in the 1918, 1920 to 1925 Wall Clock catalogues and Pequegnat’s final catalogue put out in 1928.

The Moncton closely resembles the Seth Thomas #2 in size and shape down to the seconds hand, 80BPM and beat plate but unlike the #2, the Moncton is spring driven. The Moncton was an alternative to the #2 which was a well made American regulator but costlier and with a shorter running cycle.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2

The seller tells me that the clock came from the north of Toronto (Ontario) and apologized for not knowing more about its history. He has had it for about 1 ½ years.

I removed the dial to inspect the movement. As expected it is large and heavy with solid plates mounted to an iron frame. It is not difficult to see that it was designed to be rugged and dependable. I did not check the back plate but judging from what I see on the front plate there appears to be little wear. The first wheel on the right side is the only one that has a newer bushing. Given its condition it was well cared for and did not have a hard life.

Large and heavy time-only movement

This clock has been on my wish list for some time.”Monctons” are up for sale from time to time, but they are getting harder to find. I have seen examples come and go but this one is in great shape and the time was right to add it to my collection.

 

Grandfathers old clock – Preserve a memory or restore it – Part III

This is Part III of a 4-part series. I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it.

I have devoted two previous articles to this curious and somewhat homely Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock. It is a clock that had been passed down within the family and it has had a hard life. Along the way it has undergone some changes, not all of them pretty. I thought about the next steps for this clock and considered advice from friends and family. It came down to three options:

1) Do absolutely nothing, preserve it as-is and store it in a closet,

2) Discard the case out, buy a donor case and install the parts I have in the new case or,

3) Preserve it, that is, not change it in a significant way but make some cosmetic changes and have it run reliably.

Option three it is.

At one time the original case was painted yellow with red trim. which is probably why it was discarded

Restoration or preservation? The restoration process consists of performing clock repair procedures on the movement as well as cosmetically restoring the dial, the case and its wooden and metal components using period procedures. Proper restorations do not change the clock’s functionality, appearance or value. Restoration of a valued clock is a serious business as many owners are emotionally attached to a clock for various reasons.

In this situation the movement can be restored and the other hardware cleaned up, however, the case is not original and was likely made 40, or 50 years ago which is why this project is part restoration and part preservation. Servicing the movement, putting the clock in running condition and making some cosmetic changes is my objective for this project.

This is what the clock looked like when I first received it.

First photo of the clock sent by my cousin

It has a homemade plywood case though it has all the essential mechanical parts. There is no dial glass. The brass bezel would have been hinged and perhaps the hinge broke and was discarded. The bezel was then screwed into the plywood.

The first step is the movement. The parts arrived from Perrin and I went to work on the movement. The movement is a Waterbury time and strike with a patent date of Sept 22, 1874. It was dirty as expected and there was some rust but it cleaned up nicely.

Before

And after servicing

The movement required 5 bushings at T2F, T2R, S2F, S2R, and S3F. As always it takes me more than one try to get the strike side functioning correctly. During testing I noticed that the strike side was sluggish. A tight bushing, bent pivot, insufficient end shake? I will know when I take it apart and take a second look.

Walnut stain and clear coat, hiding the plywood and nail heads, for the most part

I gave the case a thorough cleaning, then a sanding and applied one coat of dark walnut stain followed by three coats of shellac. A dark Walnut stain is the optimal way to hide the plywood and the nail heads. It does not hide the plywood completely but the intent for this project is to refresh the case rather than conceal imperfections.

At one time the original case was painted yellow with red trim, my grandfather’s idea of matching the clock to the paint and trim in his kitchen. The original case was likely in such poor condition that it was thrown away.

Next, the brass. It was painted red at one time so it took a little Brasso muscle to remove a combination of red paint and tarnish.

The brass was quite black

The result looks good

The dial was a challenge. Cleaning up the pit marks and faded numbers was my key objective. The nicks are chicken pecks while stored in a barn. Again, I was not interested in replacing it but touching up the nicks and rust spots while preserving the character of the dial. I have a supply of acrylic metal paint and it is a matter of mixing the right colours to determine the closet match.

The numbers were painted with flat black acrylic metal paint. The dial touch-ups would fool most people at a distance. I removed the rust from the hands and gave them two coats of flat black paint. The coil gong base was cleaned and also painted black.

Colour matching to hide paint loss

I ordered 10 1/4inch convex glass for the bezel plus a door hinge. The hinge was soldered into place as were brass tabs to hold the glass. Although the hinge is not affixed in this photo, this is what the door complete with dial glass looks like. There is not much I can do about the screw holes on the bezel; it remains part of its provenance. I may cut the heads of some brass slotted screws and solder them to the holes or simply leave the holes as-is.

Glass installed in bezel. Hinge installed but not fit to case in this shot

The clock requires an access door on the short drop, the opening is unsightly. As you can see in the photo above the cut-out is rough and a door will effectively hide it. I plan to make a solid door much like the one on this New Haven schoolhouse clock.

Drop door on a New Haven schoolhouse clock

It may not not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 60 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.

Next is new drop access door and final assembly which I will detail in the next and last post for this project, Part IV in 4 days.

What to do with this old clock was a difficult decision. What would you have done?

Waterbury, New Haven or EN Welch – A true Frankenstein clock

E N Welch case

Is this attractive 30 hour weight driven Ogee a Waterbury, a New Haven or an E.N. Welch? All of the above, actually and perhaps more.

The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes to the clock

Is it a marriage or a Frankenstein?

When horologists speak of a marriage they mean the clock in its entirety is not original. It generally means the movement is not original to the case but it can have other meanings as well. Various parts and components might have been added or changed over time. Over the life of a clock it has often been in the hands of many owners particularly if the clock is well over 100 years old. The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes. Each owner may add or take away components in the interest of having a reliable clock while sacrificing authenticity. Functionality trumps aesthetics. When a clock goes well beyond the horologists definition of a marriage, it is called a Frankenstein.

A Frankenstein clock is made up of a mixture of clock parts from many makers. In this case, a previous owner acquired a number of non-working Ogee clocks, took what was salvageable from each one and constructed a working clock.

New Haven 30 hour movement

This clock was purchased at auction as a non-running example and cost the owner very little money. I was asked to take a look at it and perhaps “do something to make it run”. It came complete with weights for both sides missing only the pendulum bob and the correct key. The key that came with it was a #3 mantel clock key as the original would have been a crank style key. One weight was stuck in the right channel past its hook; the other was loose in the case; not a good way to transport a clock. Though difficult to tell if they are original to this clock, the weights are those typically found in a 30-hour brass time and strike movement.

The numbers have been repainted by the writer

The dial is not original to the case though it is correct for the period. There is a stamped impression in French on the back of the dial suggesting that the clock it was attached to was intended for export to France (Chauncey Jerome?).

Tablet design

The tablet is a nicely detailed floral design but has some loss as one would expect given its age. However, the tablet and the door do not appear to be original to the case. There are small blocks under each hinge suggesting the door was “made to fit” this case. Nails are used on one hinge and screws on the other.

Waterbury coil gong

The case is an E.N. Welch, the time and strike weight driven movement is New Haven and the coil gong is a Waterbury.

The aluminum spindle for the cable just above the movement on the right side is an curious touch.

Aluminum spindle

A wall hook at the top and back of the case suggests that it was hung rather than having sat on a shelf. Knowledgeable Ogee clock owners know that these clocks were never meant to be hung though many were displayed in that manner.

I took the movement out of the case, inspected it for wear and found it to be in very good condition with no obvious pivot, tooth, pinion or click wear. The verge and escape wheel similarly had little wear. The cables for the weights should be just long enough to bring the weight to the bottom of the case with a little to spare. On both sides the cables were twice as long as they should have been. The suspension spring and rod which is a later replacement, is too long as the bottom of the spring touches the crutch loop. The crutch loop had been incorrectly turned 90 degrees requiring a simple twist with pliers to correct it. How it ran is a puzzle since there was no impulse transmitted from the crutch to the pendulum rod. A previous owner, though well intentioned had little knowledge of how a movement functioned.

Incorrect grain direction on top piece

The rosewood veneer though dulled with age is in fair shape and had acceptable repairs with the exception of the flat horizontal strip on the top front, which upon closer inspection, is a replacement with simulated grain oriented in the wrong direction. Other issues are minor chips on the bottom edge of the case, two pieces of missing veneer on the right side and slight bubbling of veneer on the top left side panel.

Veneer issues

So, what is this clock exactly?

The answer is that it is a 30 hour Ogee clock. It is also an amalgam of many clock parts, a Frankenstein. From afar the entire clock looks very good, but closer examination immediately reveals it many sins. As they say, “Nice from afar but far from nice!”. A resourceful person took all the good parts from a variety of clocks and combined them to make a clock that actually runs and keeps good time.

Is it a keeper?

For discerning clock collectors this example is far from acceptable and certainly diminishes the value of a clock considerably even if it runs well. An expert looks for precisely these things prior to any decision and any serious collector of Ogee clocks would instantly walk away. For someone either interested in the history of clock production or those entering the world of clocks wanting a cheap clock to practice and learn with, it is certainly worth keeping.

The clock is running strongly and striking as it should following a cleaning and oiling. This 30 hour New Haven, Waterbury, E.N. Welch Ogee clock from the 19th century would fool most people.

It reminds me of that old expression….Caveat Emptor (Let the Buyer Beware)!

The first cuckoo clock in my collection – thank you Uncle Dave

Dave's cuckoo clock

When people ask about my clock collection their first comment is, “Do you have a cuckoo clock”. No, I say and their reply typically would be “You should have one!” I often wonder why folks think I should have one. I suppose many collectors have at least one in their collection. Now when they ask I can now say, “of course I do”.

sellers are interested in a sale and do not need to know anything about the clocks past

Thank you, Uncle Dave.

I have acquired most of my clocks at flea markets, auctions, word of mouth etc., even had a few given to me but I know little about their history. The sellers are interested in a sale and do not need to know anything about the clocks past; unfortunate but it is what it is.

On the other hand, I have several clocks which have a very interesting heritage; my Crispi wall clock by Junghans that survived the Halifax Explosion, my Ingraham Huron shelf clock that remained within in the same family for over 80 years or my Canadian Time wall clock by Arthur Pequegnat that hung in a railway station waiting room until 1993.

This is not any old cuckoo clock. This one is especially important……to me at least. This one can actually talk to me. I’ll explain.

My cousin Dave (we called him Uncle) died in 2017and his family knew that he loved his cuckoo clock. Rather than give or sell it to a stranger they decided to hand it over to the family clock guy…..me!  Dave was related through my father’s father and has a cottage next door to ours in the province of Quebec. Dave was a helluva a guy and he would do anything for you. He loved life and cherished it to the end.

From time to time you will find service dates written or stamped inside vintage or antique clock cases. These dates give you an indication of the age of the clock and how well it was cared for over the years

In the early 1970s, he and his wife went to Germany for a tour, returned to Canada and regretted not buying a German cuckoo clock. So, he promptly went to the Cuckoo Clock Shop in Ottawa (our nation’s capital) and bought one. He also wanted it in running order. Over the years whenever it stopped he had it promptly repaired.

Back of clock

he history of an object is a window to its past. This clock is a common 30-hour cuckoo clock made in West Germany in July of 1975 (photo below).) and thousands of these were made and sold all over the world. It has a Regula movement, still made to this day. Regula movements are made by SBS-Feintechnik, and are dated by a letter code. This one has the letter “V” which indicates that it was made in 2007.

German made 30-hour cuckoo clock

The clocks complete service history is recorded on the back panel. When I opened the back access door to inspect the movement and the condition of the bellows I found all the dates when the cock was brought in for repair. From time to time you will find service dates written or stamped inside vintage or antique clock cases. These dates give you an indication of the age of the clock and how well it was cared for over the years.

Detailed service history behind the access panel

  • Oct 10, 1978, clean oil adjust, major repair
  • Sept 22, 1988, CXO (clean and oil) adjusted by “AO”
  • October 30, 1990, new movement, repair by “AO”
  • Jan 1996, 5996 (job #) clean, oil & adjust
  • April 27, 2007, 9869 (job #) new movement and chains

From the service records, I observed that the clock is on its third movement. It is often simpler (and cheaper) to replace the movement in a cuckoo clock rather than to repair it. Attempting to repair a cuckoo clock is very time consuming, frustrating, and costly. In addition, if the entire clock had to be shipped, the case usually incurs extensive damage as it makes its travels. This is the reason most clockmakers no longer accept most cuckoo clocks for repair.

Regula 1-day movements typically cost less than CDN120. The cost of servicing a two-train clock locally is CDN225 and up, so, replacing the movement is a logical decision.

Cuckoo clock bellows on left and right.

I oiled the movement, installed the weights and now it is a lovely little 1-day clock that dutifully cuckoos on the hour.

We have a number of clocks in our summer cottage and my wife and decided that that is where it should hang. Everyone who visits marvels at the sound of the cuckoo clock, it is so distinctive. Now they say, “that’s a nice cuckoo clock, where did you get it?”.

It is not perfect. Sadly at some point in every cuckoo clock’s life, it needs the bellows replaced and these bellows are brittle and in poor condition. A cuckoo clock that does not cuckoo is, well, just another clock! The bellows is a cottage project for next summer.

And yes, provenance is important.

Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock (The Pointed Top)

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock

This is a Canadian made clock I bought at an antique store on Bloomfield, Ontario this past summer (2018).

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock

This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to 1941. Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada.

Pequegnat made mantel, shelf, hall clocks (Tall case) and wall clocks mostly of oak but some were mahogany veneered. The Kitchen clock or gingerbread clock as it is often called was very popular at the time and Pequegnat made an effort to keep up with current styles with a range called the Maple Leaf. There were six versions of the Maple Leaf clock made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Though the dimensions are similar they share two unique characteristics; all Maple Leaf’s have the distinctive maple leaf tablet and Maple Leaf pendulum. It is Pequegnat’s interpretation of a truly Canadian clock styled after American clocks.

Label found underneath the base

This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”. Maple Leaf clocks are easily found on auction & for-sale sites and can be had for a mere fraction of the cost of the more desirable hall and wall clocks.

Hammer and coil gong
Hammer and coil gong

I have several Pequegnat clocks in my collection, two of which are Maple Leaf’s, a “fan top” and now this, the “pointed top”. In my view, the pointed top is the best design of the series.

Made of quarter sawn golden oak, it is reminiscent of a Gothic steeple clock, with squared columns on either side and a pointed centre with stylistic applique above the 5 inch dial. The base is a simple angled pedestal sitting on a box frame.

Pendulum bob with Canadian Maple Leaf
Pendulum bob with Canadian Maple Leaf

Some clocks have something peculiar about them and this one is no exception. Most Pequegnat labels are found on the back board. The label on this clock is underneath the base which is an odd location for a Pequegnat. If this was a standard practice it looks original and has the usual amount of loss one would expect from a 100 year old clock label. While the name Berlin is on the dial, the label indicates that the clock was made in Kitchener, Ontario. There are two possible explanations; either the dial face is a replacement from a older clock or the clock was made during the transition period (1916) when the name of the city was changed from Berlin to Kitchener during the First World War.

The movement is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates

The glass tablet is in excellent condition. It is not uncommon to find some loss especially a few missing maple leaves here and there but this is the best I have seen. The dial face has some flaking but is otherwise in good condition; the Roman Numerals are vivid and unfaded. The spade hands are correct for the clock and look original. The oak case is in great shape with no missing or split pieces. The finish is in excellent condition and the oak grain enhances the simple lines, in fact, this clock has aged very well.

Tablet is in excellent condition
Tablet is in excellent condition

I took the movement out of its case to inspect it. It is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates. Not surprisingly it had been worked on in the past. One bushing on the front plate has punch marks around it otherwise the movement was tight and there appears to be little evidence of wear. There is one small issue however; the lever that activates the passing strike on the half hour is loose in the arbour and has turned to one side. Turning it to the correct position does little to fix the problem. At some point I will get in there with Lock-Tite to secure it.

The fact that it does not strike reliably on the half hour does not particularly bother me. I oiled the movement, reinstalled the movement into its case, set the beat, wound it and it maintains a full eight day cycle.

I am very pleased with this acquisition but I my search goes on for the more desirable 15-day Pequegnat Moncton wall clock and of course the Regulator #1.

Get it now before it’s gone – is this clock worth collecting?

Antique steeple clock. Battery operated. Has been refinished Very nice clock

Hmm, I wonder if they had batteries 100 years ago?

Holy Smokes, a grandfather clock

The ad simply says “Clock”.

It is working, very god condition

Must have been blessed by the Pope.

Grandfathers old clock – now what do I do with it? Part II

 

Photo sent to me by my cousin

I posted Part I of a four-part article on this curious schoolhouse clock recently. In this, Part II I discuss the what I like and what frustrates me about this project.

I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it. I thought long and hard about what my next steps should be and considered advice from friends and family.

  1. Do absolutely nothing,
  2. Discard the case, buy a donor case and install the parts I have or,
  3. “Preserve” it, that is, not change it in a significant way but have a working clock.
I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to proceed differently

The good stuff: The dial face is definitely showing its age. There is rust and pitting throughout but the Roman Numerals are fairly clear despite some fading. The Waterbury trademark is visible on the dial just above the centre arbour. The spade hands appear to be original, though rusted. The time and strike movement is intact sans suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob. There is a Waterbury trademark on the front plate of the movement with a patent date of September 22, 1874. Just how long Waterbury used this movement deserves some research but the clock works look to be from the 1890s. The coil gong is clearly marked Waterbury. The bottom line; there is strong evidence that the movement, dial, bezel, clock hands, and coil gong are all from the same clock.

When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered that it was twice as heavy as it should be

Plywood was not available as a general building material until 1928

The frustrating stuff: When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered just how heavy it was. Makers go to great lengths to make clocks as light as possible; this one is very hefty. The backboard and front face are constructed of ½ inch plywood. Plywood would not have been available in the 1890s or even some years afterwards. The centre frame appears to be 3/4 inch board. The movement sits high on a block of wood to bring the arbours closer to the dial but the result is that they protrude too far above the face. Robertson and Phillips screws (the former invented 1909, the latter in 1932) are used everywhere. The “newer” case is very sturdy and would likely last a long time but weighs twice as much as it should. It is an interesting homemade case.

Plywood construction, twice as heavy as a typical clock case should be

The handyman, be it my grandfather or someone who it was passed on to certainly had the best of intentions. The original pieces such as the dial, movement etc. were retained but the original case was discarded. My grandparents were poor and lived modestly. In those days if things wore out folks would go to great lengths to keep them running often resorting to home repairs with materials at hand. The goal was functionality not aesthetics.

The movement, coil gong, dial face, bezel and hands are all from the same clock

Four screw holes were drilled into the original brass dial bezel and at one point in its life it was painted red. The bezel would have been originally hinged to the front face of the clock. The dial glass is missing, perhaps discarded after it broke. Aside from the 4 screws holding the dial bezel, I counted 20 more screw holes once I lifted up the bezel.

Lastly, the short drop section is without an access door.

Next steps: I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to take another course of action.

The dial, bezel, movement and coil gong are the important mechanical bits which are in good shape. Missing are the suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob, all easily available through any clock supplier. The movement wheels run free and the mainsprings are good; all the parts are there aside from those mentioned above and there is no reason why it should not run reliably after cleaning and servicing.

The clock is waiting for me on my cousins kitchen table

The case is what it is, it is part of my history, part of my family history. It will be sanded and stained dark walnut followed by a clear topcoat. I will affix a brass plaque in memory of my grandfather and proudly hang it on the wall.

But first: The first order of business is to clean up the clock including the brass dial face sections. Next, buy new glass for the dial and a hinge for the bezel plus the movement parts that are required. Finally, I will fashion a new drop door using old wood from a donor clock.

And that’s where it ends. It can be no more than what it is.

It may not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 70 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.

The clock is now on my project bench and I will post two more blog articles in November detailing the steps towards preserving this interesting clock.

Sessions Drop Octagon – a pint-sized schoolhouse clock

Sessions Drop Octagon

A working clock for $25? You can’t go wrong.

Found this little schoolhouse clock not 10 minutes from where I live. It is a Sessions Drop Octagon. It was manufactured in Forestville Conn. USA in the early 1920s and spent most of it’s life hung in a one-room schoolhouse near Springhill, Nova Scotia (Canada). The seller said that he had taken it out of the schoolhouse when it was decommissioned in the 1970s and it has been in storage ever since.

It is small, measuring 21 inches high by 13 1/2 inches wide and with a 7 inch Arabic dial.

Foxing

“It’s not running” he said. “Fine” I said. I took it home and had it running within 10 minutes. Although it ran strongly it required a good cleaning. I took the movement out of its case, dis-assembled it, cleaned all the parts in an ultrasonic cleaner, polished the pivots, cleaned and oiled the mainspring, installed 2 bushings, reinstalled the movement, tested it and set about cleaning up the case.

Time-only movement

After a Murphy’s Soap clean-up to the case I let it thoroughly dry then applied 2 coats of shellac to bring back the natural luster of the wood which was in otherwise good condition. The clock face had some foxing, which, in clock circles, means that some of the tin byproduct had leached through to the paper label and discoloured it. A little unsightly but I decided to live with it.  I hung it up over my desk as one of a trio of time zone clocks to remind me of the time where my kids live.

Time zone clocks
Time zone clocks, Session clcok on right

The clock is a loud ticker but it runs well and should be reliable for years to come.

Back from a little break – now for more clocks

Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 is still on my wish list

Lots of exciting news over the summer. Six new clocks, three of which have been on my wish list for a while. One, a Cuckoo clock, is my first. Another is an Ansonia crystal regulator, two more Pequegnat clocks, a curious Waterbury wall clock and more. I will be writing about my new acquisitions in the weeks to come.

I also managed to expand my clock library as I have found several interesting books on horology which I will report on in a future article.

For those who wrote to me over the summer, thanks and again I apologize for the delay in getting back to you.

It is good to be back.

What is this clock thing for? #2 – the strike rod lock

Strike rod stabilzer

If you ever need to transport a German box clock or a similar style wall clock there are several steps you must take before you remove it from the wall.

German "box" clock by Mauthe
German “box” clock by Mauthe, sold under the Solar or Forestville name in Canada

One of these procedures is to secure the strike rods. The gong or strike rods are screwed into the gong block. If allowed to move during transport there is a risk that the rod(s) will break. Although they are strong and withstand years of striking they are also brittle and can easily snap. Clock-makers have several solutions for securing the rods. This is one of them. Yours may be similar.

Gong block
The gong block

On some clocks, you may find a fork-like device that turns to secure the rods.

Strike rod stabilzer
Strike rod stabilizer

By turning it clockwise the three gong rods will fit into the forks as shown in the next photo.

Rod Stabilizer
The pendulum is removed and rods are now locked in place

Once the rods are secured in place and you have removed the pendulum rod and bob as well as secure the access door, you can now safely remove your clock from the wall.

What is this clock thing for? #3 – the let-down key

Some folks collect clocks without actually working on them. Collecting clocks and repairing them are two very different things. I know people who would gladly send their clocks out for servicing and don’t seem to mind the extra cost. I like to do my own work.

If you work on your own clocks or service clocks for others you know how important it is to ensure safety at all times. Servicing a clock movement requires that you disassemble it completely and safely. There are specific tools designed not only to make life easier as a clock repair person but will ensure your safety at the same time.

Before taking the pins or nuts from the movement plates there are important steps you must follow to ensure your safety working with movements. There is a minimal threat of injury working with weight driven clocks (unless a weight drops on your foot) so the following information pertains to spring driven clocks be they open mainsprings or springs contained in a barrel. The let-down tool is designed specifically for spring driven clocks.

Click replaced
Click, click spring and ratchet

The letdown key
The letdown key is engaged prior to releasing the click

Some clock movements from French, English and German clocks, for example, contain mainsprings within a barrel, safer than open mainsprings. If the spring lets go in a barrel there is still a risk of damage to the gear teeth and wheels however the break will be contained within the barrel itself. The letdown key is used to release the power of the mainspring into its barrel.

The flat clamps (upper left in photo below) are for those open mainsprings which do not leave a lot of working room. Otherwise, the round clamps are good for most applications. Prior to working on a movement the mainsprings must be letdown or restrained in their clamps.

C-clamps used to contain the power of the mainspring

A flat C-clamp is wrapped around the mainspring as you can see in the next photo.

Mainspring contained in a clamp
Mainspring contained in a C-clamp

Once the mainspring is safely contained you can work on it with a spring winder, like this spring-winder from Olie Baker .

Mainspring servicing
Mainspring servicing using a Olie Baker spring winder

Here’s how it works. There are four pieces in the let-down set. There are 3 chucks in sizes #5-6, #7-8 and #10-12 plus the handle. Choose the size that fits the winding arbour of your movement. Then insert the let-down end with chuck into the winding arbour. Turn it until the mainspring is compressed. Fit a clamp around the mainspring. Once the clamp is secure around the mainspring release the click spring with a small screwdriver and push it out of the way. Once the click spring is out of the way move the click away from the ratchet while firmly holding the let-down key. The power of the spring will be transferred to the key. Allow the spring to gradually release its power by letting the key handle spin gently within your hand. There, the mainspring power has been restrained and you will be able to proceed with dis-assembly.

Your journey into the world of clock repair requires essential tools The let-down set should at the top of the list. Always minimize the risk of injury by restraining the power of the mainsprings. The letdown key is the safest method of letting down the mainsprings.

Tick Talk Tuesday #16 – I would like to sell my clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

 

GJ writes

“My name is GJ and I live in Lancashire, England.  When my father died I ended up with this clock! It works so we put it up on the hall wall for a while and years later redecorated and the clock no longer has a home, it just does not fit in with the surroundings.  However, somebody will love it, but we don’t know who to contact in order to find someone who would buy it with a view to using it.  Do you have any contacts in England that we could offer it to?  It is a forlorn hope, but we have to try.”

My reply,

“High GJ. Thanks for coming to my blog. What you have is a New Haven American Victorian drop clock (made in USA). It is a time and strike clock which means that it strikes the appropriate time on the hour and strikes once on the half hour. It looks like it has good wood inlay and the dial face is original but you are missing two carved side wings and the original reversed painted glass door which would affect its value. I would keep it for sentimental reasons but it sounds like you are ready to part with it. I do not have any contacts in England but you could try Gumtree, eBay or your local clock-maker.”

GJ writes back.

“Hello again, Ron.  Thank you for your reply.  I will try to find a good home for my clock.  Actually, now it has been dusted it looks a lot better! Thanks again for your information and help.”

 

Arthur Pequegnat Bedford – bringing a handsome mantel clock back to life – Part II

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock

This is Part II of a two part series in which I describe the final finishing of an Arthur Pequegnat Bedford clock case.

In Part I I described the challenges of repairing the clock case and the minor repairs to the movement.

In the first part of the series I also described how I acquired this Arthur Pequegnat mantel/shelf clock during my travels to Quebec this spring.

The red oak veneered clock is complete with pendulum bob, a good label on the inside back of the access panel, coil gong and of course, the signature time and strike Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates.

Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings
Nickle-plated plates with brass bushings

It is the “Bedford” model. Online research informs me that two Bedford models were produced. This one, which is the later version, measures 9 ¾ inches high by 8 ¾ inches wide by 5 ½ inches deep. It has a silvered 6 inch dial with Arabic numerals with no Pequegnat inscription on the bottom of the dial face, spade hands surrounded by a thick brass bezel and concave base moulding. It has a passing ½ hour strike on a coiled gong.

The earlier model has a 5 inch enameled dial with stylized Arabic numerals and Pequegnat inscription on the dial face, spade hands, oak veneered case, a thinner brass bezel and convex base moulding. The case measurements are identical. The time and strike movement differs from the later model by having a ½ hour passing strike on a bell.

If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install larger (and correct) spade hands

I initially thought that the larger dial might make this a one-of clock but after working on the case I am inclined to believe that the dial might be a replacement. I observed two sets of screw holes, one for the larger dial and one presumably for a smaller one. A factory switch or perhaps a clock-maker replaced the dial at a later time for whatever reason. After looking at a photo of the Bedford taken at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario (Canada) you can easily see the smaller dial and thinner bezel.

Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum
Bedford clock on display at the Canadian Clock Museum

Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock, assembled, cleaned and working but before case refinishing

I do not think the larger dial overpowers the look of the clock, in fact, it gives it a more contemporary presence. If the dial is a replacement, it is a Pequegnat and someone took the trouble to install correctly sized spade hands. Unfortunately, the previous owner is unaware of the difference.

The task of clamping and gluing the case took several days as each section of the case required attention. And now to the final finish.

Gluing and clamping took time
Gluing and clamping took time

Before the case restoration. Yes, the clock was in sad shape.

Dirty case
Very dirty case with years of grime and no grain visible

After giving the case a good cleaning I applied one thin coat of Minwax red oak stain to hide the bare areas and rough edges. I let the stain sit for 5 minutes and wiped off the excess with a cotton cloth. I allowed the case to thoroughly dry for 24 hours before the first sanding. For the final finish I chose Minwax PolyWipe for two reasons, one, it is simple to apply since it is easily wiped on and secondly, I wanted to avoid the amber tone of a lacquer which might result in concealing the grain. I applied six coats of PolyWipe and used 400 grit emery paper between each coat.

After cleaning, sanding and two coats of PolyWipe this is the result.

PolyWipe applications
After two PolyWipe applications

I am pleased that the grain came up very nicely, reminding me of what it must have looked like many years ago.

Finished clock
Finished clock, after 6 coats of PolyWipe

After six thin coats of PolyWipe the result is a revitalized finish that is durable, attractive and will last for years.

The brass door has me puzzled. What I thought was a broken hinge was actually folded into the bezel and soldered.

7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel
7/8 inch hinge is soldered back into the bezel

Why? I am reluctant to remove the solder because I risk breaking the glass by bending the retaining tabs. They are in very tight. As it stands the glass door will friction fit onto the dial bezel. Not the best but it will do for now. I will give it a second look, perhaps I can de-solder that hinge without removing the glass.

A project that is well worth the time and effort. It is always satisfying saving an old clock and bringing it back to life.

What does bushing a clock mean?

Bergeon Bushing Machine

American Sessions time and strike clock showing a gear pivot and the build-up of dirt in the pivot hole

Is your mechanical clock not running as well as it should? Does it stop intermittently or not run at all? There may be a number of issues with the movement and among them pivot wear.

Pivots are the ends of the axles (the horological term is “arbours”) that spin in small holes drilled in the clock plates as the clock runs. They are reduced or turned down end of an arbour. These, along with the holes themselves, can become worn. The pivot hole must be perfectly round and the pivots must have a mirror-like polished surface in order to minimize friction within the train of gears. The two surfaces must be protected and the barrier between the pivot and the pivot hole is clock oil.

A badly worn pivot

A worn pivot or worn pivot hole causes the gear to slowly move away from the pinion and it will eventually stop when the gears no longer mesh properly. A clock that is in need of bushings runs erratically or stops altogether.

If a clock movement is not serviced (cleaned and oiled) routinely there will be wear in the plates of the movement where the pivots come through. If new oil is applied over the old il it will free up abrasive dirt and keep grinding away at the steel and the brass bushing hole. Worn pivots are typically found in clocks that have been oiled over and over again and not properly cleaned. The term “properly cleaned” implies disassembly of the movement, cleaning the parts, addressing wear issues, reassembly, and testing.

Occasionally you will see punch marks made to close the pivot hole. Though not an accepted practice today this was a common method of repair employed by past clock repairers

Pivots must be cleaned and polished periodically to ensure they can turn freely within the hole in the clock movement plate. A worn pivot hole is easy to observe as they are oval-shaped instead of round as you can see in the next photo.

Close-up of bushing wear
Close-up of oval-shaped bushing wear. The circle shows what the hole should look like

The process of bushing consists of replacing the worn brass around the pivot so that the hole is round again. A new hole is drilled into the plate. A new, properly sized, the bushing is punched or pushed into the plate using a bushing machine such as a Bergeon Bushing Machine.

Some clock-makers prefer to hand bush using reamers and smoothing broaches and the results are entirely acceptable but a machine simplifies the task.

Badly worn pivots which are made of steel must be replaced with new pivot. This is called re-pivoting in clock circles. A watch or clock lathe is used for re-pivoting which involves drilling into the end of the wheel arbour with a high-speed bit and installing a new pivot made from pivot wire.

Drilling a hole with Bergeon bushing machine
Drilling a hole with a cutting reamer

Punching the bushing home
Punching the bushing home using a Bergeon Bushing machine

Using a micrometer to check pivot
Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter

Minor wear is tolerable and expected over the life of a clock and can be addressed by careful filing, polishing, and burnishing.

X marks pivot holes that need to be bushed
X marks pivot holes that must be bushed

Clock pivot oil
Clock pivot oil

Looks like a large pivot hole but actally punched close to the hole
Punch marks near the pivot hole. This was a common practice of past clock repairers

Bushing is an integral part of movement servicing. Some clocks that have been well-cared for may have minimal wear and may not require new bushings while others, through neglect or improper servicing, may require many bushings.

Bushing a clock is one of the most fundamental tasks of the clock-maker. Pivot and bushing work performed correctly will extend the life of a clock movement while ensuring that a clock runs reliably for years.

Sperry and Shaw 30 hour 4 column New York Style shelf clock circa 1846-47

4 column Sperry and Shaw 30 hour shelf clock
4 column Sperry and Shaw 30 hour shelf clock

I have the 30-hour clock bug and my collection of them is steadily growing, but where to put them all? I have not decided where to put this one and for the moment it is on the floor of my work room.

Sperry and Shaw were not thought of as a high end clock company but some models like this 4 column New York style were quite attractive

This is a New York-styled Sperry and Shaw 30 hour time and strike, 4 column shelf hour strike clock, measuring 25 1/2 inches in height by 14 inches in width. The 4 free-standing turned columns first drew my attention as I had never seen anything quite like it. While researching the NAWCC site I discovered that this clock was made in or about 1846-47. The label, of which 98% is intact inside the backboard says 10 Courtlandt (not a misspell, there is a second”t”) Street, the company headquarters during the aforementioned period. Sperry and Shaw were business partners and were regarded as distributors and assemblers rather than clock-makers.

 

Sperry and Shaw's label showing 10 Cortlandt St.
Sperry and Shaw’s label showing 10 Cortlandt St.

They sourced cases and movements, affixed their own stamp on the movement and placed their labels (sometimes over other makers labels) inside the case, a common practice at the time as clocks for the home and workplace both locally and abroad were in great demand.

Not everyone in the clock business was happy with Sperry and Shaw. Consider this excerpt from Chauncey Jerome’s book, History of the American Clock Business.

“These New York men would say that they were agents for Jerome and that they would have a plenty in a few days, and make a sale to these merchants of Jerome clocks. They would then go to the Printers and have a lot of labels struck off and put into their cheap clocks, and palm them off as mine. This fraud carried on for several years. I finally sued some of these blackleg parties, Samuels & Dunn and Sperry & Shaw, and found out to my satisfaction that they had used more than two hundred thousand of my labels. They had probably sent about one hundred thousand to Europe.”

Chauncey Jerome had a few clock-makers/assemblers on his hit list that included Sperry and Shaw and at least managed to sue some successfully.

Sperry and Shaw were not thought of as a high-end clock company but some models like this 4 column New York style were quite attractive, sold well at the time and are sought after today by collectors.

The movement is Jerome-like (Counterfeit perhaps?) and stamped Sperry and Shaw, New Jersey. I measured the plate thickness and compared it to a Jerome in my collection and the plates in this clock are a little thinner.

The narrow brick-shaped weights (4  3/4 inches X 1 inch) fit neatly into channels on the left and right. When I first communicated with the seller, he was not sure if the weights were in the clock. He later emailed to say that it did indeed have weights. I would have passed on the clock had it not come with the weights because the narrow bricks are the only type that will fit into the channels and they would have been almost impossible to source. The weight cords, clearly not original, are old and frayed and will be replaced with simulated gut. How old, well on the first night I raised the strike weight up about halfway and about 20 minutes later I heard a loud BANG. I knew exactly what happened; the cord had snapped and the weight had dropped. Luckily there was no damage.

The open moon steel hands are original.

The upper glass appears original and has the waviness you would expect from a clock over 172 years old.

The lower tablet has a cropped image of the Bay of Quinte (Ontario, Canada) taped to the inside – not original but old. The original 18X12 cm steel engraving was drawn by W. H. Bartlett and engraved by J. C. Armytage in 1840; the image can be found here. Since the image is from 1840 and appropriate to the period of the clock, I might just leave it there. It also tells me that the clock likely spent most of its life in Ontario, Canada.

Sperry and Shaw clock showing dial and lower tablet
Sperry and Shaw clock showing dial and lower tablet print

The zinc dial is old though not as old as the clock itself since there is a patent stamp on the back of the dial dated Dec 1, 1863.

Dial patent date of 1863
Dial patent date of 1863, a later addition to the clock

There is also a clock-makers inscription that says, “cleaned by Felo Bros, March XX 1901”. Obviously this particular dial would not have been on the clock at the time it was made. A wood dial would have been appropriate for the period.

Clock-makers inscription in pencil
Clock-makers inscription in pencil

The case looks good…from a distance. The veneer looks like mahogany or walnut, I am really not sure. There are a few small pieces of veneer missing at various places and mostly on the corners, a common issue. It has a two-tone appearance though the case might have been all one colour when made (??). There is a lot of grime on the darker surfaces and I have to decide whether to leave as-is or take it down a little bit to see what’s there. Attending to the veneer issues should be a fairly straightforward process. The break in the right corner of the base is a crude repair and that will have to be redone.

One of several areas of minor veneer loss
One of several areas of minor veneer loss

The movement is dirty but should clean up nicely. There is not a lot of pivot wear on the front plate of the movement but I will learn more once it is out of its case.

There are a number of other clocks in the queue but I am eager to tackle this one.

Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock – moving ahead with repairs

Freshly lacqurered case

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock in as-found condition

The photos tell the story

Some time ago I wrote an article on an Ansonia barn find. It is an Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock, circa 1880. I thought I would update readers on how this little project is progressing. I was able to find most of the parts but there are still some missing. I will let the photos tell the story.

It did not look like it would ever run again
It did not look like it would ever run again

Siezed time-only movement
Before shot of the seized time-only movement

Cleaned up time only movement
Cleaned and serviced one-train time-only movement

Ansonia movement in case
Ansonia movement in the case and running an 8-day full cycle

The movement was cleaned up with 4 bushings installed and is now able to run a full 8-day cycle. The case received attention with glue repairs, a new backboard, new right finial and a re-lacquering of the veneer surface. The veneer was in good condition and required very minor repairs.

Dial with minor losses, At this point is test fit with the wood bezel
Dial with minor losses

Touched up dial, mounted in case
The dial has been touched up and mounted in the case

Addressing the paint loss on the dial was a challenge. I played with various shades and mixed colours that were a close match to the original. The result is better than it was. The glass fits into a slot on the wood bezel and the fit was surprisingly tight. Had I known I would have glued the bezel pieces with the glass in place. Lesson learned!

I am still missing the drop access door plus its reverse painted glass and the brass bezel that surrounds the dial face. I will make the door but will leave that project for another day. My search for the brass bezel continues.

As I progress with this restoration project I will keep the reader up to date with changes.

Looking for an antique Ogee clock? Now is the best time to buy

George H. Clark 30 hour movement

Ogee clock prices seem to be at their lowest level in years. If you have your heart set on an Ogee clock, there is probably no better time to buy than now.

Ogee clock; clock design that originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the ogee clock stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were usually made of brass and were made to run for 30 hours or eight days. (Brittanica.com)

Earlier this year (2018) I bought three Ogee clocks at an estate auction. There were about a dozen clocks up for bid, some gingerbreads, a couple of mantel clocks and a few Ogee clocks. Fearing that the auction would bring out collectors I surmised that the clocks would fetch somewhat higher prices. Though there were many clocks there were few aficionados. I scored three clocks, all were in very good condition though they were running poorly.

Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock
Daniel Pratt reverse ogee and splat clock

This Daniel Pratt Jr clock caught my eye. It is reverse ogee and splat, time and strike with wood movement made in the mid-1830s. My winning bid was a mere 30CDN. Ogee clocks with wood movements have sold for at least 200CDN in years past and eBay asking prices for Daniel Pratt Jr. clocks are typically between 60US and 200US. Although Ogee clocks have hit rock bottom in Canada the same may not be true elsewhere.

Wooden movement, time and strike
Wooden movement, time and strike

I have written about the decline in clock prices in a previous post. There is a legion of unwanted clocks out there. EBay and other online sites are flooded with ordinary antique clocks though special interest clocks still command higher prices. Many reasons are attributed to the decline though the poor economy in recent years is a major factor. Since 2008 clock prices have been dropping steadily and an upward direction in the near future looks dim. Prices are at or near the bottom. As the economy improves and antique buyers return to the marketplace we will see an uptick in values. In the meantime, now is certainly the time to buy.

Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr
Clocks, manufactured and warranted by Daniel Pratt Jr

I paid 60CDN each for the other two Ogee clocks, one a Chauncey Jerome 30 hour time and strike, circa 1857, the other, a George H. Clark 30 hour time and strike, circa 1860.

Chauncey Jerome 30 hoir Ogee clock
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock

George H Clark Ogee clock
George H Clark 30 hour Ogee clock

Sellers are posting inflated prices but a clock is only worth what the buyer will pay. Do your research and learn to shop with a critical eye and you be rewarded.

 

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