My wife and I were at a little antique shop just outside Truro, Nova Scotia on a typical Sunday drive. I found a lovely Black Forest time-only shelf clock that was reasonably priced and bought it because it had a simple plate movement I was looking for. My wife on the other hand wandered through the same antique store and noticed a Kundo anniversary clock. Kundo was a well known German clock make and is otherwise known as Kieninger & Obergfell. Although we were not really in the market for an anniversary clock the price was right.
I noted at the time that it was not functioning but all it took when I got it home was a winding to get it running again and two weeks to regulate the time. Compared to those I have seen on EBay this one is in excellent condition and cleaned up well. The photos were taken prior to cleaning.
Kundo anniversary clock
A 400 day anniversary clock is otherwise known as a torsion pendulum clock. The torsion clock is a mechanical clock which keeps time with a mechanism called a torsion pendulum. This is a weighted disk or wheel, often a decorative wheel with 3 or 4 chrome balls on ornate spokes, suspended by a thin wire or ribbon called a torsion spring (also known as suspension spring).
Without glass dome
The torsion pendulum rotates about the vertical axis of the wire, twisting it, instead of swinging like an ordinary pendulum. The force of the twisting torsion spring reverses the direction of rotation, so the torsion pendulum oscillates slowly, clockwise and counterclockwise. The rotation is generally 270 to 360 degrees and takes about 7-9 seconds. Mine has a little bit of over-swing which is not problematic.
The clock’s gears apply a pulse of torque (provided by a winding spring) to the top of the torsion spring with each rotation to keep the wheel going. Because they are running so slowly and require little energy, they are capable of running for long periods but are not as accurate as weight driven or other spring driven clocks due to the fact that they are subject to temperature and humidity changes and the long run periods between windings augment any inaccuracy. Mine runs within 2-3 minutes a month and most would consider that to be acceptable.
Movement and pendulum with speed adjustment dial on top of 4 spokes
An adjustment allows the balls to move in and out of its axis thereby controlling the rate of the clock. The closer the balls are to the centre of the axis the faster they will spin and further from the axis results in a slower rotation. Torsion clocks were popular gifts because they would run a year between windings thus marking an important occasion or anniversary.
Torsion clocks are usually delicate, ornamental, spring wound shelf clocks which typically stand between 9 and 12 inches in height. The polished clock mechanism is usually exposed under a plastic or glass case or dome (need not be, however), to allow one to watch the torsion pendulum turn.
Movement showing spring barrel
This particular torsion clock was made in the 1970s. Shortly thereafter production of torsion clocks began to decline. There was a minor resurgence of electronically switched electro-mechanical (battery) torsion clocks but otherwise the age of the torsion clock was coming to an end.
Torsion clocks have a long history which I will explore in a future article.
I do not mean marriage in the traditional sense. In the clock world a marriage is defined as a bringing together of parts to make a complete functioning clock. Among clock circles it is generally accepted that if a clock has significant parts from another source, such as a movement, pendulum, weights, put into a different though correct case it is considered a marriage.
Gustav Becker 2-weight regulator
If it has a large number of parts from a variety of sources, even parts not original to the period or correct to the clock it might be considered something else. See my previous post for a discussion on Frankenclocks.
I am in a bit of a quandary.
I have written a number of blog posts concerning a Gustav Becker two-weight regulator clock that I bought in February. I am fascinated by what I have learned about this clock but the journey has been both enlightening and frustrating as I attempt to get it to run reliably.
I purchased it as a project clock and knew that I would have to source parts that were missing from the movement which the seller disclosed at the time of sale. I decided to buy another GB movement. About a month after I bought the clock my search on EBay bore fruit. The movement I found (from Poland!) was a Braunau movement which is the same factory but newer by 16 years (1902 versus 1918). It was an excellent fit for my clock project since up to 90% of the parts are interchangeable and the price was very reasonable.
Clock face with replacement VR hands
My intent was to part out the 1918 movement to supply the 1902 movement with the parts I needed such as two springs, a snail / star wheel, hammer assembly and gathering pallet. While I took what I could from the 1918 movement to get the original movement running I had mixed success. It ran well for a while and then it would stop and lock up for no apparent reason. It stopped several times. Each time I took it apart, inspected the parts I thought might be problematic but found nothing amiss. After I dis-assembled, cleaned and oiled the movement each time I had it out, I returned the movement to it’s case and the clock would run for a while, a couple of weeks, a couple of days, hours perhaps before it would just stop abruptly. I am sure that if I investigated further I would find a slightly bent pivot, worn pinion or problematic gear tooth somewhere. Now for plan B.
Weights for Regulator clock
I thought, well I do have the 1918 movement, why not switch them and see what happens. I returned all the parts such as star wheel / snail, springs, hammer assembly etc. from the 1902 movement to the 1918 movement and hoped that the 1918 movement once installed in the case would run and run well. I was initially concerned that the newer movement, a P27 requiring what I thought was a longer pendulum would not fit the case case but it seems to be sized perfectly. It is a mystery to me how pendulums are measured. The movement has now been in the case for the last fourteen days and it is not only running well but keeping excellent time.
The question remains, should I leave the 1918 movement in the case since it is now running well? Although it is the “correct” movement though not the original one, could the clock now be considered a “marriage”? The answer is, yes!
If I were to sell the clock I would disclose that the movement is not original to the case which would certainly affect its overall value. I could make the deal more attractive by providing the original movement as part of the sale considering that it is repairable, if I sold it! These situations occur quite often in the world of EBay et al when the clock seller chooses not to give too much detail in their description of the item when they know some parts are not original. Furthermore, from a buyers perspective there is no guarantee that the clock they are looking at is 100% original.
Gustav Becker clock occupying a prominent location in the living room
This is my first marriage. Would I do it again? If faced with similar circumstances in the future I would probably do the same thing but it has also taught me to be cautious with any potential clock purchase by asking key questions prior to any decision.
Of course this clock is not for sale. I think the clock looks outstanding on my living room wall.
Let me know if you have you performed any marriages or if you think it is an ethical practice?
Maybe this is old hat to you and you already have a pretty good idea what you consider antique versus a vintage item, but as I poke around the Internet I find enough confusion, so perhaps it is not that clear-cut after all.
The terms vintage and antique are often used interchangeably although if one explores further there are generally agreed upon differences in terms.
Let’s take the word “antique”. According to the United States Government (don’t ask me why a government must define the word antique), the term “antique” is reserved for valuables that are over a century old. Websters dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Even Wikipedia defines antique as applying to objects at least 100 years old. Okay, so we have nailed that one down.
Okay, now let’s look at the word “vintage”. According to Ebay, vintage is a defined period from 1930 to 1969. Let’s be realistic; on Ebay “vintage” often means anything that was purchased less than 24 hours ago, is dirty and worn, or looks like it might be old if you don’t know anything about its history. The word vintage is overused, and as misused, as “antique”. The use of the word vintage in auctions is becoming more and more like the the word “rare”. Most often the seller doesn’t know anything about what they are selling and describes it as “vintage” and hopes the buyer believes it. The word collectible is also abusedby marketing, just like the word vintage has been misused. It has been used and abused to the point that just about anything sold these days is marketed as a collectible if not vintage. Most serious buyers would agree that when it comes to vintage clocks younger than 100 years old but usually older than 50 is a good rule of thumb.
Vintage 1937 Blackforest shelf clock
In some circles however, jewelry for instance, anything over twenty years old is considered vintage. Some expand the definition even further to include “near” vintage and “true” vintage items. What does that mean? So if something is 48 years old is it “near vintage”? If it is 50 years old is it “true vintage”? The reality of the situation is that some people think anything vintage was made before they were born. To reiterate, anything over 50 years but under 100 is, to me, a reliable measure.
Antique, circa 1902 Gustav Becker Vienna RegulatorVintage Sessions Raven shelf clock, circa 1920
Let’s add to the confusion. In 1970 Junghans (a company that has been around for 150 years) invented the Astor-Quartz wristwatch which entered series production in 1972. Watch collectors everywhere would consider the Junghans quartz watch to be an example of a vintage timepiece which is highly collectible even though it is quartz, so is it vintage? There are always going to be rare exceptions but generally speaking nothing that has a quartz movement is vintage.
For all practical purposes a true antique or vintage clock is one that will never see the high level of quality, style or craftsmanship used in its manufacturing again. Observe the detail, workmanship and skill that goes into the manufacture of a vintage or antique clock. It cannot be duplicated today.
The Sessions mantel clock you see pictured above was made in 1920 and in another 4 years it would be classified as an antique. Could one pass it off as an antique? Or a “near” antique?
How would you classify this bracket clock made in 1990? It is a 36 year old Hermle 8-day Westminster chime moon-phase clock in the bracket clock style. It is a great looking little clock, well made with good detail. Bracket clocks are so popular that Hermle still makes mechanical bracket clocks to this day. But it is neither an antique or vintage. It is a collectible.
Hermle bracket clock, circa 1990
Taking the time to research your prospective purchase will assist you in determining the age of your clock whether it is vintage, antique or merely collectible. I knew this Hermle bracket clock was was not very old when I made my first inquiries. Finding out how to date this clock was relatively simple. On the bottom right hand corner of the movement as you look at it from the rear there is a FHS Hermle logo stamp on the plate and above that is the letter “C”. Internet research tells me that after 1989 Hermle began to use letters to denote the year of manufacture. In this case “C” stamped on the movement means the year 1990.
Clocks can be dated with some accuracy as in the bracket clock above but often it is quite a challenge to determine the age of a clock. My Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock is quite old but I do not know it’s exact age. The Pequegnat Clock company made the same clock for 26 years (1916 to 1941) and made no change to the design or to the movement, consequently there is no way of determining the exact year it was made. So, is it antique or vintage?
Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time Clock, antique or vintage?
Whether antique, vintage or collectible, buying an antique clock does not necessarily mean you have to spend a fortune. Ogee (OG) clocks, for example, are certainly antiques and beautifully handcrafted many of which are 150 years or more old but they are still reasonably priced because thousands were made. Antique banjo clocks are highly sought after and still reasonably priced (all considering) unless you are seeking a genuine Simon Willard. A little homework certainly helps.
Whether antique, vintage or collectible, if you enjoy your clock nothing else really matters,does it?
There are literally thousands of clock photos posted on the internet. Being an amateur photographer myself I marvel at the care and attention that some put into the actual capture of an image for all the world to see yet others feel that their cell phone is, well, good enough. It is frustrating to see blurry and out of focus pictures taken in poor light when you really want to see the detail they are attempting to describe. Specialized cameras do have distinct advantages when it comes to capturing the fine detail of a clock, watch etc. and I will explain why this is important.
Macro shot of a lantern pinion
For example I saw a bracket clock advertised in a local online for-sale site. The photos were terrible but I knew details about the clock the seller was advertising. Too bad most of the people viewing the ad saw a blurry photo lacking detail. I pounced on it. As it turned out I was the only one who inquired. The clock was in excellent condition and the movement looked like it “came off the showroom floor” and on top of that I managed to save quite a bit of money. Had the seller taken the time to photograph the item with care and attention they would have realized much more money for the clock.
I offer you tips on how to photograph your clock whether you are showing it off, selling it or if your interest is clock repair and maintenance.
My 7 tips for effective image capture.
1) Camera: Get a decent camera that will shoot macro. No matter what you might think of cell phones as cameras its not the resolution…its the lens. Some people swear by their cell phone – for decent photography I would be swearing at it!
I use a 9 year old Olympus E330 DSLR with an equally old 50mm macro lens. Another option is to uses a set of magnifier lenses that will screw onto standard lenses which will take macro to the extreme. Some bridge cameras will do just fine and they are not all that expensive.
How about the other end of the spectrum when it would be good to have everything in focus using F22, long exposure on a tripod with indirect natural lighting. Taking pictures of a clock movement before dis-assembly is a real challenge. Pointing the camera into the chasm between the plates with all the parts and hoping to get something usable upon re-assembly sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t but it helps if everything is in focus. Using a telephoto or zoom lens as a macro also helps if a macro is unavailable. Just step back far enough to take the shot.
The newest Panasonic ILC (interchangeable Lens Camera) cameras have an interesting feature in their latest firmware update which allows post capture re-focusing that I think would be a boon to horologists. What happens essentially is that it is a focus bracketing function that stacks a burst of images together into a single file and you touch the focus point that you prefer. Great for that side shot of the internal workings of a movement. You can then shoot 30 frames per second with 30 different focus points. I might be looking for this feature in my next camera purchase.
Seth Thomas cottage clock
2) Stability: Find a tripod at a garage sale or get your old one out of the closet or at the very least put the camera on a pile of steady books. I have a sturdy Manfrotto tripod that is probably 12 years old but works very well. A tripod is a must particularly when low shutter speeds are used and it is even more important when shooting video.
3) Light: Be conscious of the light on your subject. Turning your clock around to a window in the daytime with the sun shining in will mean nice natural colors. In a dark room a flash on your camera is helpful but flashes tend to bounce light off shiny surfaces resulting in harsh images, so, indirect light is better. I use a CFL continuous lighting kit and if I need less harsh light I use a soft-box. For proper colour tones, shoot your photos in RAW and post-process for colour temperature correction.
4) Distractions: Be mindful of what else in in the shot. Your favorite clock with your equally favorite brew may not leave the best impression for some. Clear the area around the object prior to shooting or use a back-drop. A white bed-sheet will do in a pinch. In the shot below I eliminated any distractions by using a macro lens to blur the background.
Floating balance for a clock movement
5) Cropping: This related to # 4). Crop out any distractions or crop for more impact. Sometimes we don’t need to see everything, crop out what is not needed.
6) Composition; the ability to make things stand out in your photo in a particular way. Using a large aperture on your lens can result in a particular part of a clock stand out in focus while everything else is blurred. The camera sees everything which means your photo can be cluttered. Take some objects out of the photo and consider a focal point, something that naturally draws the eye.
7) Re-size: Re-size for the web. Re-sized photos retain much of the same quality as the original but are easy to upload and serve to protect your copyright.
A Martin Cheney clock is on my wish list though I doubt I will ever see one let alone buy one, they are that rare. So who is this clock-maker from Montreal, Quebec?
Could this be a Martin Cheney tall-case clock?
My wife and I were staying at an historic Inn in downtown Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) in the spring of 2016. We discovered a fully restored long-case clock in the front room of the inn. The inscription “Canterbury” on the dial face suggested that is was an English clock or would it be a Canadian clock made by Montreal clock-maker Martin Cheney almost 200 years ago? I should have asked.
Upon returning home I did some research. I posed the question on a clock forum site and the response was “who is Martin Cheney?” In clock collecting circles the name is not exactly commonplace. Not a lot is written about this man despite many of his clocks surviving to this day.
Barely readable numerals
Martin Cheney – an American born clock-maker
In 1778, Martin Cheney was born into a well-known and established American clock-making family. He was one of four clock-makers born to Benjamin Cheney 1725-1815 and Elizabeth Long Cheney in East Hartford, Connecticut. Benjamin most likely trained all four of his boys in the art of clock-making. Asahel was the oldest and was born in 1759. He then moved to Vermont. Elisha was born in 1770 and died in 1847. He settled in Berlin, Connecticut. Russell was the youngest. It appears he moved north to Putney, Vermont. Martin also had an uncle, Timothy 1731-1795. He became a well-known clock-maker in East Hartford and worked closely with Benjamin. By 1803, Martin Cheney moved up the Connecticut River to Windsor, Vermont. While in Vermont he advertised that he has fine English Watches, watch keys, chains and seals for sale.
Political events in the United States sent a group of families to the British territory (as Canada was known prior to 1867) in the early 1800s. Martin moved to Montreal in 1809. He remained in Montreal for some twenty years. In 1817 he formed a partnership with J. A. Dwight and advertised this business as Cheney & Dwight at 104 St Paul Street, Montreal (now a show-bar!). He made both movements and cases, wall and tall case clocks and banjo clocks. The partnership with Dwight lasted until 1830. In 1827, Martin placed an advertisement in Burlington, Vermont newspaper for a journeyman clock-maker to work with him in Montreal. Although Cheney continued to make clocks into the 1830s there is no information on Cheney beyond 1830, however, it appears that he spent the remainder of his days in Montreal.
What is a Cheney clock?
What is intriguing about a Martin Cheney clock? His clocks featured outstanding inlaid mahogany reflecting both high style and workmanship. The cases were well proportioned; this long-case clock has a long and narrow waist and a large rectangular waist door that is fitted with an applied molding. The center of this door also features a selection of mahogany veneer. Open this door and one can access the inside of the case. The sides of the waist are fitted with quarter round columns. These terminate in brass quarter capitals. The bonnet features a New England style raised centre brass inlay top piece. It is surmounted by three brass balls and spiked finials. The molded arch is supported by fully turned and fluted bonnet columns. They are mounted in brass capitals. These columns flank the sides of the arched bonnet door. This door is line inlaid and it opens to access the dial of the clock. Had I looked at the movement it would have confirmed the fine craftsmanship of this 19th century timepiece.
This clock at the historic inn I described above certainly fits the style and detail of a Martin Cheney clock, so is it a Cheney clock? Some day I will have to find that out!
What is a shelf clock? If you have a number of clocks as I do it can be quite confusing to describe each specific type to the average person but it is really quite simple. Let me explain how you can identify the clock you might be looking at. The term shelf clock is a broad category but I believe it can be classified in the following ways.
Some 180 years ago the first shelf clocks were OG (Ogee) clocks. These were the first mass-produced American clocks, were inexpensive, and were made up to about the late 1870s. They represented the early years of American clock-making and the transition from more expensively produced wood movements to cheaper brass movement clocks. OG clocks are so named because of the double-curved molding on the front of the clock. The curved molding was designed to hide the weights. Many of these clocks were weight driven with 30-hour or 8-day movements and had mirrored or painted tablets. OG clocks were usually 25 inches in height and 15 inches wide and had hardwood veneers covering a softwood frame. They were surprisingly accurate and reliable.
Spring-driven and weight driven 30 hour OG (Ogee) clocks, made by the Canada Clock Company, circa 1872-76 (Canadian Clock Museum)
Later, more stylish clocks could be found. These are called Column clocks because they would either have a half-column or full column on the left and right or even stacked half or full columns such as the one pictured below. Moldings on the top and bottom would be brought together by columns on each side of the clock with mirrored or painted tablets. Column clocks were almost exclusively weight driven with 30-hour or 8-day movements.
Stacked Column clock, circa 1870 (Canadian Clock Museum)
At around 1840 Steeple clocks were introduced. They had a peaked centre section bordered by columns topped with finials and a peaked sash with a decorated (often hand-painted) lower tablet. They were spring driven with 8-day movements. Steeple clocks are very distinctive, stood about 15 inches high with veneered hardwood over softwood, often with reverse-painted scenes and are made by a number of well-known companies.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf “fan top” Kitchen clock, circa 1905
Kitchen clocks (Gingerbread) were simple or ornate with carved or steam-pressed patterns made by quick-saws and heavy steel presses, stood 22-24 inches in height and about 15 inches wide, and had a decorated sash which could be a very simple design as you see here or a much fancier reverse-painted glass scene. These inexpensive, visually pleasing timepieces sat in the kitchens of lower and middle-class homes and were produced by the thousands. They were so named because of their likeness to the design of gingerbread houses at the time (early 1900s). They are usually made of oak, walnut or even walnut trimmings on oak with a metal clock face and many had a simple alarm mechanism. The Gingerbread clock you see here is the Maple Leaf “fan top” by Arthur Pequegnat. The Maple Leaf came in 4 unique styles all characterized by the maple leaf decal on the glass door.
Some kitchen clocks had beautifully carved features and figurines such as this stunning clock made by the Hamilton Clock Company (Canada), though a clock such as this might be found elsewhere in the home and considered a parlor clock.
City of Hamilton, made by the Hamilton Clock Company, circa 1880 (Canadian Clock Museum)
When spring-driven clocks were introduced the Parlor clocks like this Hamilton Clock Company model became popular. They tended to be narrower than column clocks because they had spring-driven movements. These clocks mirrored the furniture styles of the time. This one reflected the Victorian era with its bold figurines, carved finials, elaborate patterns etched into its wooden frame, and the hand-painted floral design of the sash.
Seth Thomas round top cottage clock, circa 1930
Cottage clocks are less than 15 inches high and typically 8 inches wide are small, simple in design, and take up very little space. Many have basic alarm mechanisms but have one feature that distinguishes them from other pendulum clocks. They have a clip or a clasp that secures the pendulum rod for travel. The “round top” you see here was sold by Henry Birks and Sons an upscale Canadian jeweler. Others had “beehive” tops, flat tops, or octagon tops.
Pendulum rod clip for Seth Thomas round top
Smaller clocks are often referred to as desk clocks. They are usually mainspring driven with a flat dial. This Kundo 400-day anniversary German clock is an example of a desk clock but it might also be described more specifically as a torsion clock. This one stands less than ten inches tall and has a glass dome, a weighted wheel with 4 balls suspended by a ribbon called a torsion spring, and an exposed movement. It was typically given as a wedding gift.
Kundo 400 day anniversary clock, circa 1970
Finally, the mantel clock.
Mantel clocks can be ornate, larger, and the centerpiece in a room. This particular clock, a Mauthe pendulum mantel clock offers a precision-built sophisticated German Westminster chime movement in a relatively non-descript but attractive and well-built cabinet that is simple yet elegant.
Mauthe time. strike and chime, circa 1970
ASIDE: Is it mantel or mantle? I have always considered a mantle as something you wear, a garment or a part of the earth’s crust. A mantel on the other hand is a shelf above, say, a fireplace. I see this word interchanged so often when clocks are advertised or described that either word is universally accepted. I prefer the word “mantel”.
Ingraham Huron shelf clock, circa 1878
Mantel clocks were inexpensive to make, occupied very little space, and were part decoration and part practical timepieces. Mantel clocks were made with brass, wood, porcelain, slate, Bakelite, and metal though for the most part they were designed to be lightweight (slate clocks and cast iron clocks would be the exception), simple in basic design, and very practical. Mantel clocks have lasted so long, over two centuries, because they are dependable, versatile, and work so well in many domestic situations.
The categories of shelf clocks also include carriage clocks and lantern clocks. One of the first clocks whose movement and external structure was made predominantly from brass instead of iron or wood was the lantern clock. Although the shape of the clock looks somewhat like a lantern, the derivation of the name probably stems from the French word “laiton”, meaning brass. The earliest lantern clocks had striking mechanisms; later in the 17th-century alarms were sometimes added. Some lantern clocks had pendulums and could be hung on the wall.
Carriage clocks were spring-driven clocks developed in 19th century France and are made of plain or gilt brass. They are often no more than 8 inches tall, designed to be portable, and are characterized by a rectangular shape, glass or porcelain panels, and a carrying handle on the top. If you have a Breguet carriage clock as part of your collection you are very lucky indeed!
This is by no means an exhaustive description of the types of shelf clocks. There are others such as swinging clocks, tambour clocks, pillar and scroll, and so on. Whether you are shopping for a clock as a gift or adding one to your collection or even describing what you have seen to a friend, it is important to understand the distinctions between one type and another.
Black Forest Clock Company of Toronto, clock in as found condition
Shelf clocks such as the one pictured have always been hard to find though I did stumble upon this one very recently (April 2016) at an antique store in Great Village, Nova Scotia. Why, because of their cheap construction and inexpensive movements, not many of these clocks have survived over the years.
This one might have had a special meaning to someone at one time because it is a memento of the King George VI coronation of 1937 which nicely dates the clock. He became King George VI of England in December 1936 following the death of his father George V and the abdication of his brother. He had been a heavy smoker and in 1951 had his left lung removed then died suddenly in the winter of 1952. Elizabeth became queen later that year.
Black Forest shelf clock after case restoration
Another view of refinished case
This Blackforest shelf clock is only slightly larger than the first Blackforest clock I picked up last summer (2015) and like the other, is time-only.
Company plate on rear of clock
The time-only movement is very simple in design. The pendulum rod, bob and pallets are one piece.
One piece pendulum assembly
To adjust the beat rate you either rotate the bob left for slower rate or right to make the clock run faster or slower. Outside the back plate sits the mainspring which is housed in an open barrel and there are 5 gear wheels plus the escape wheel between two solid plates. This is an identical movement as found in my other Blackforest shelf clock but unlike this clock it was in very poor condition. The movement is German and could have been made by a number of companies at the time; Keinzle, Mauthe, Hermle or Junghans. There are no stamps or markings on this so-called “plate” movement to give any indication of the maker. Typically many Canadian companies such as the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto (the Forestville Clock Company after the war) imported German movements before the Second World War and installed them in Canadian made cases.
Plate clock movement
Commemorative Edition – 1937 Coronation of King George VI
To refinish the case I cleaned it thoroughly using Murphy’s Soap, applied three coats of dark walnut stain taking care to wipe the stain with a cotton cloth 5-10 minutes after each application. My intent was to fill in the scratches and abrasions rather than radically alter the colour. I then rubbed the cabinet with 0000 steel wool between coats and applied two top coats of clear polyurethane satin finish. I cleaned the numerals but decided against repainting rather preserving the original patina, though I applied Brasso to bring back the finish on the key wind bushing. In the end the case is a little darker but likely closer to its original finish.
Original winding key
I haven’t quite figured this out yet but I think the winding key has a “bottle opener” design to allow the pendulum to be locked during travel. Ideas?
This clock would make a great addition to a any bedroom. It is small enough for a dresser or even a side table, quiet enough (for a mechanical clock) and is still attractive in design after all these years. Heck, you can even wind the clock in the 6 o’clock position.
Anyone who collects clocks knows that Waterbury clocks have had a long and illustrious history but did you know that the modern day Timex watch can trace it’s roots all the way back to the Waterbury Clock Company?
Let’s start with my Ingersoll-Waterbury time and strike mantel clock that I picked up late last year (2015) and following which we will explore this most interesting company.
Ingersoll-Waterbury mantel clock
This mantel clock was sold to retail outlets by the G.R. L’Èsperance Company of Montreal, Canada who advertised themselves as the sole distributor. “Made in Canada” it says on the case but as is typical of clocks sold in Canada before and during the Second World War the movements were made in the USA, assembled and shipped to Canada to be installed in cases that were sold in many stores across the country. Other clock companies such as Seth Thomas established a similar practice. Aside from the very rare Martin Cheney clocks made in Montreal in the mid 18th century, the only clock company that made their own movements and built their own cases was the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company based in Kitchener, Ontario in the early 1900s to 1941.
This Ingersoll-Waterbury mantel clock was made in 1943 and likely very popular at the time.
Clock face showing somewhat flimsy hands
It has a conventional pendulum adjusted by a small arbor under the “12” and the company logo “W” in raised relief on the bob. It has a common recoil escapement. The clock face is paper with the inscription “Waterbury” on top of the “6” and”Made in Canada” below it.
Label showing instructions for operating the clock
The label is a generic one found on a wide variety of clocks to save printing costs. The swinging front panel door is unique to this clock and there is a small catch underneath the right hand side to secure it.
The hands may look very ornate but they are in fact quite cheap looking. A quick search on the net reveals that are, in fact, original. The inexpensively made hands and paper face are not unexpected for a mass produced clock.
Time and strike movement
The veneers on either side of the back panel were split open when I first received the clock but clamping and carpenter`s glue tightened things up. It is very common for clocks of this vintage to have chipped or missing pieces of veneer which unfortunately reflects their cheap construction. However, this clock presents well and is free of serious flaws on the case itself.
Swinging front panel door
The Waterbury name has been around since 1857. From my research I found that in 1922, the Waterbury Clock Company purchased the Ingersoll operation whose business had begun to decline after 1910 and had gone bankrupt two years previously due to poor management. Waterbury’s operation was particularly hard hit by the Great Depression of the 1930s. Clocks were considered luxury items and many could ill afford a timepiece for the home.
By 1932, their huge factory complex was almost idle when demand was so low. The company avoided bankruptcy and the firm was reorganized as the Ingersoll-Waterbury Company with investors raising half a million dollars in new capital. During this period (1933) the popular “Mickey Mouse” character watch was made and electric clocks were added to the line which revived the company. The Mickey Mouse watch was known as the “mouse that saved the day”. Draw any conclusion you wish.
After the USA entered World War II, the Ingersoll-Waterbury Company switched almost entirely to manufacturing war products though a small number of clocks were still produced. However, in 1942, the company was purchased by a group of Norwegian investors and a new factory was built at Middlebury, CT. Two years later, in 1944, the firm changed its name and became known as the United States Time Corporation. They introduced the widely popular “Timex” watch a year later. In November, 1969, U.S. Time was succeeded by Timex Corporation (now Timex Group), whose corporate headquarters are located in Middlebury, CT. to this day. The Timex museum, located in Waterbury, Connecticut, USA, is said to be “both the birthplace of Timex, and of modern timekeeping”.
So there you have it. My clock and Mickey Mouse are indeed related!
I hear this so often when I am purchasing clocks for my collection. Time and time again (pun not intended) I walk into someone’s home with the intent to purchase an antique clock and I am greeted by the same words more often than not, “It was my mother’s clock” or a variation, “My grandmother had this clock” or “My wife loved this clock”.
Some time ago (April 2016) my wife and I took a trip to the Bridgewater which is located about two hours from our home in Nova Scotia, Canada. I knocked on the door walked into a modest home and spoke with the seller who explained that the clock he was about to say goodbye to had been in his family for over 70 years, perhaps longer. When I was “so high”, he motioned with his hand, “I remember this clock in my grandmother’s home”. Although I did not ask him why he was selling it I could not understand his motivation for parting with this “family” clock.
Mothers and grandmothers seem to be the keepers of the the flame, the maternal spirit of sentimentality. No doubt the clocks were originally purchased by the “man of the house” because it was the man’s station to life to make important decisions for the home though the person who invested emotionally in the acquisition was the wife. Has this changed?
Ingraham Huron
Another example. We traveled to Halifax, Nova Scotia to see a grandfather clock. Now, I have always wanted a grandfather clock. Twenty five years ago my wife and I put a deposit on a beautiful grandfather clock with the hope that it would one day be proudly displayed in our home and our homes to come. Life got in the way, the money was required for a deposit on a new home so we canceled the order. That has always been a deep regret. Fast forward to three years ago. That grandfather clock that I always wanted was staring me in the face when I saw it on a for-sale site. The price was very reasonable. On the phone I asked the seller. “What condition is in in?” and he replied, “You have to see it to believe it”. We visited the seller who explained that the clock was his mothers. He was sorry to see it go but it and several other beautiful clocks just had to go to make room for the “next phase of my life”, whatever he intended that to be. It was in truly exceptional condition so we bought it. I often wonder what he must have told his mother or if he had any regrets when we walked out the door.
Ridgeway tall case clock circa 1996
We were in the Annapolis valley (about 3 hours from our home) checking out an Ansonia Short drop schoolhouse wall clock in the fall of 2015 and settled on a price with the seller on the phone. When we arrived the seller explained that the clock had been in the family for a number of years. His mother had passed on and they were in the process of managing her estate. I asked him if he knew anything about the clock. The seller was in his late fifties and said,”I remember it hanging on the wall of my mother’s home when I was a kid, but I never actually saw it running”. “She loved it and she brought it especially to Nova Scotia from a school in Ontario”. We bought it.
Ansonia Short drop schoolhouse clock
We saw an ad on a local for sale site. It was for a spring driven Mauthe wall clock with a horse crown (top piece) made in about 1895. An elderly couple was in the process of down-sizing and made the decision to divest themselves of some of their keepsakes, his mostly it seemed. He was obviously in a new relationship and explained that his wife had passed away some three years ago and she always loved the Mauthe clock which she considered a family heirloom but it as well as other keepsakes had to go.
Mauthe clock with middle finial missing
He told the story about how she had brought it and a number of other items in a suitcase from the Netherlands in the 1980s. The bottom middle final was missing because I suspect that it simply did not fit in the suitcase and somehow got lost over the years. It was the only thing amiss with the clock. It must have been hard for him to see the clock go but he seemed heartened to see that it was going to a good home.
We were on our way to Tantallon (near Halifax, Nova Scotia) to look at a small wall clock, a Waterbury Arion short drop schoolhouse / office clock. The gentleman we spoke to on the phone said that he wanted to reduce his collection of clocks. We arrived and I was quite surprised at the size of this particular clock. It is really quite diminutive with a dial of less than 8 inches and 19 inches from top to bottom. It was missing the glass and bezel but the oak case was in excellent condition. The dial face was in poor condition with barely readable numerals from 6 to 10, however, the price was right. I then asked, “Where did you get this clock”. He replied,”I didn’t; my wife bought it from a fellow in Debert”. “She buys them and I fix them”, he said. I looked around the house and there were some truly beautiful clocks of all types and they were all well cared for and each one was purchased by his wife and cared for by him. A truly symbiotic relationship!
Waterbury Arion short drop wall clock
In my journeys throughout Nova Scotia and elsewhere in Canada I have been amazed at how many clocks were collected and cherished by women. In many cases the clocks are in excellent condition, a tribute to those who cared for them, the Mothers.
Restoring the case was relatively simple. After a thorough cleaning to lift the accumulated grime, a wax overcoat, touch-ups in discrete areas with yellow shellac, the case is very presentable for a 138 year old clock. I cleaned up the brass bezel but left the paper dial untouched. The hands are original and left those alone. The lacquer on the pendulum is still intact; no work needed on it.
And now to a further investigation of the movement.
After taking the dial pan off a couple of days ago my first impression was that the movement appeared to be in good condition. There are a number of newer bushings on the front which would have been expected for a clock of this vintage. The servicing of the front plate looked like a capable repair. I oiled the front pivots and gave the pendulum a push, adjusted the verge and found a good beat. It ran continuously through the night. The next day I decided that if I were to keep this clock running until I can do some work on it, the movement should come out to oil the back pivots. It must have been years since this movement last saw pivot oil.
No problem. Four screws and out it came.
The secrets of this clock were now being revealed. Here you can see the back plate. I immediately observed several distressing issues with the movement. The first two problem areas are indicated by the white arrows. The left one shows a piece soldered onto the plate to address a pivot issue. The second shows a new bushing where one should not ordinarily be.
Back plate showing two problem areas
The addition of a new bushing in that location must have been done for a reason. At this point I cannot speculate why it had to be done this way but it looks like shoddy workmanship. Otherwise, I do not see any other conventional bushing work.
You can see that the escape wheel arbor is clearly misaligned in the following photo. It works though theoretically it should not. Despite the fact that the clock is happily ticking away it is a poor fix for an unknown (to me) problem.
Arrow showing a misaligned escape wheel arbor
The next issue is a soldered lantern pinion seen here just off the main gear (see arrow).
Soldered lantern pinion
It is not a problem now unless one had to work on the pinions on that gear at some later date.
The fan was also repaired with solder. It looks ugly but it does not effect the running of the clock.
So what to do? A simple bushing job I can do but serious bushing work is obviously required from someone with the experience and knowledge of Ingraham movements and I don’t have that level of expertise – yet. I may put this aside until I gain more experience or have it professionally repaired.
I did discover one unusual feature. Although it has a wonderful gong tone on the hour it does not strike on the half hour.
For the moment is is ticking away and keeping good time.
If you been here before you will notice that I have changed the look of the blog so as to make it easier to follow past articles quickly. I may revert back to the old style but I will try this out for a short time.
Ingraham Movement with two patent dates, Oct 6, 1878 and Nov 6, 1879
In my last post I profiled my latest acquisition (April 2016), a Ingraham Huron shelf clock, and now we will look at the movement, the case in more detail and other aspects of this fine clock.
Rosewood veneers with striking grain effect
Ingraham Huron shelf clock
What makes this clock special is the case. The movement, a time and strike, was found in thousands of Ingraham clocks. There is nothing unique about it.
I had an opportunity to take a closer look at the clock movement today (April 12, 2016) and here are my impressions. When I took off the dial pan I immediately observed how much cleaner and brighter the movement was than I expected. A pleasant surprise.
It was clearly evident that the clock had been worked on at least once in its life. A number of bushings had been installed, 8 in the front alone (and perhaps a number on the back plate), however, there was no evidence of poor repair. The clock was serviced by a clock repair shop owned by a gentleman named Hebb in 1944, Bridgewater, Nova Scotia as he left his pencil notation to that effect inside the case. There is no label on the inside of the clock; it would have been nice to see one. However, I do not see any evidence that one was ever there.
Ingraham time and strike
Pendulum with patent from Dec 11. 1877
I discovered the suspension spring was bent so much so that the pendulum bob was striking one side of the case. It was likely transported with the pendulum attached. That could have been years ago and perhaps the seller thought it was not repairable.
A quick fix. Take the rod and suspension spring (one piece) off the post and unbend it, reinstall it and give the pendulum a push and adjust the verge to find the beat. I applied a little pivot oil to the bushings in the front of the clock and observed the action. I was initially getting 3-5 minutes before the clock simply stopped. Okay, let’s try this again, I said. In time up to 10-15 minutes and now as I sit here it is running 2-3 hours before stopping. The escape wheel is wobbly (bad bushing) and a few other bushings are suspect but if I can get to to run reliably for several hours I will pull the movement out and lubricate the bushings on the other side. Granted, this is no substitute for a proper servicing but it allows me to determine how much of a repair it requires. On the other hand, the strike side seems to be functioning normally.
On the upper right side of the movement there is a long rod that is looped at both ends. One end is attached to the count wheel lever. I am thinking two things, first, a way of determining the time in a darkened room or or secondly, a method of syncing the strike with the time. It is in a very awkward location and I wonder, why not just turn the hour hand, which is a friction fit, to the corresponding strike if it is for syncing the time.
Otherwise the case hardware, hinges and clasps are in excellent condition. The glass is perfect. The hands look a little unusual though I believe they are the original.
clock hands
I let the clock sit for a couple of days to give me an opportunity to work on the case. Such a beautifully designed case with rich rosewood veneers. It was very grimy with years of oils and dirt. I used my go-to cleaning solution, Murphy’s Soap which quite literally took off all that dirt and grime. The soap leaves a little residue which can be polished out much like wax. The gleam of the rosewood veneer suddenly came to life.
My first inclination when I first looked at the clock was that some minor case restoration was needed but after cleaning the case I was really impressed with the results. Not much else has to be done but the only area that concerned me was the base trim which I thought could use a little attention. You can see here where the finish has been abraded due to years of cleaning around the clock.
Here are some before and after shots of my work on the case. The rosewood veneers are in fine shape but you can see the base pieces had been scuffed and marred over time. The first is the before photo showing marred corners and areas where finish has lifted off the trim.
Before cleaning the case and it’s trim piece
The second and third photos show the results of a very through cleaning of the case and base trim pieces which included taking off what I believe was a whitish patch of lifted finish with a sharp razor followed by a light application of yellow shellac.
After a thorough cleaning and a light application of shellac
Second photo taken with a camera flash showing the base pieces
Shellac, a protective wood covering would have been used at the time the clock was made. I am pleased with the results and now on to the movement itself.
So far so good. This clock will certainly occupy a prominent location in our home.
My most recent acquisition (April 2016) is an Ingraham Huron shelf clock. The Huron is one of the less commonly found Ingraham models, having been manufactured briefly between 1878-80.
The clock you see here is Rosewood Veneer “Huron” Shelf Clock, by E. Ingraham & Co., Bristol, Connecticut. It has paper on a zinc dial with a round glazed door and lower glass access panel. The maker’s label is inside the backboard. It is a brass eight-day spring-powered movement, with a height of just under 41 centimeters.
The case is in very good condition. The veneers are in excellent shape (no splitting or cracking), the clock face has a build-up of grime which I may leave as is, the base corner pieces have a little wear but the 2 door catches are sound, the glass is perfect, the door hinges are in very good condition and the doors, top and bottom, still fit with precision. The pendulum retains it’s original lacquer and presents well. I have not looked at the movement yet but a little push of the pendulum tells me that something is amiss. Could simply be wound down springs or something more involved. I will leave as is until I have the time to look at it further this coming week and I will post my findings later.
I asked the seller who is about 70 years old, “what do you know about this clock?”. He extended his hand palm down out to about a meter from the floor and said, “I was this tall when I can first remember it in my grandmother’s home”. There is a penciled marking just inside the case indicating that it had been serviced by a person by the name of Hebb in 1944. The seller recalls a Hebb family who at one time lived in the Bridgewater area of Nova Scotia near where I purchased the clock.
Base of the Huron
The company had a long and renowned history. Elias Ingraham was the founder of this 19th-century Connecticut company that bore his name.
Ingraham won 17 patents between 1853 and 1873, all protecting the unique design of his clocks, most of which were made to hang flat on a wall or sit on a shelf. Ingraham was able to devote his attention to the physical look of his clocks because the technology inside them was rapidly becoming commonplace. By the middle of the 19th century, spring-driven clockworks were replacing weight-based ones, which allowed clocks to be smaller and lighter. These innovations permitted Ingraham to focus on the look of his clocks in order to differentiate himself from his competitors.
Dial door clasp
And that is precisely what he did. In 1844, he and his brother Andrew joined with Elisha Curtis Brewster to form the Brewster & Ingrahams (plural) company. The firm would become E. and A. Ingrahams Company in 1852, Elias Ingraham and Company in 1857, E. Ingraham & Company in 1861, The E. Ingraham & Company in 1881, and The E. Ingraham Company in 1885. These subtle name changes might seem overly petty, but they provide the modern collector of antique Ingraham clocks with a accurate way to date clock styles that were produced during a span of years.
Ingraham shelf clocks ranged from painted timepieces richly decorated with mother-of-pearl to round Venetian and Grecian styles clad in rosewood veneer and adorned with gilt columns. Versions of these shelf clocks were also created for walls—the Ionic style was so popular that Ingraham made it from 1862 until 1924.
Clock face showing what I believe are original hands
Side of clock showing striking veneer
In 1885, Elias’s son Edward took over the company and continued its innovation in clock case design. Double-dial wall and shelf clocks produced during this period told the time of day, the day of the week, and the month. As the 19th century wore on, Ingraham made mantel clocks with Chinese motifs and carved dragon’s feet, as well as a number of patriotic clocks depicting American war heroes.
winding key looks home-made
The Ingraham Clock Company continued to produce clocks through the 1920s continuing with the tradition of unique clock cases with Oriental designs and patriotic themes. Throughout the war years the company diversified into pocket watches and wrist watches. During the post war period the Ingraham company continued to produce wall clocks, mantel clocks and wrist watches but by 1967 the company was acquired by McGraw-Edison who converted production into making more profitable fuses spelling the end of formal clock production and the end of the Ingraham tradition of producing uniquely designed clocks for the masses.
Much of the information for this post came from this site.
This article is about a curious term that you might have heard concerning clocks and clock collecting. The term is FrankenClock. Let me explain.
Have you ever bought a clock and as much as you hoped that every mechanical part, finial and piece of trim is original and you later found out through experience, research or knowledge that it is not, how then do you feel about your purchase? Obviously you might feel disappointed, even cheated. So if a clock has parts that are not original what would it be called? Some would call it a FrankenClock.
Gustav Becker 2 weight Vienna Regulator
Let me explain further. Here is my Vienna regulator clock as it is today. It shows well, keeps excellent time after a replaced movement, a thorough cleaning, oiling and case repairs. It is original? Well, mostly. As I said in a previous post this clock was sold as a “project” clock and the seller made no pretense that everything was absolutely original and that is fair game. Here is a summary of what I have discovered so far.
Clock glass panels
Let’s begin with the side and front glass panels which I believed were original when I recieved the clock. The glass was broken during shipment and had to be replaced. In fact, the case was broken is several parts, but that is another story. Although I thought I was replacing the original glass I found out that the broken glass was likely not original to the case. When I brought the case into a glass installer I was asked two simple questions. Why is the side glass thicker than the front glass and why are finishing nails used to anchor the glass? Good points. So, just how many times was the glass replaced on this clock?
GB weights
Weights
The weights at first glance looked identical but closer inspection reveals that one weight has a slightly different hook design than the other. I doubt the factory would have provided dissimilar weights.
The movement
The movement appears to be a match for the case and it is appropriate to the period but is it original? The movement had parts missing which the seller kindly disclosed when the clock was advertised for sale. Parts missing were the star wheel/snail and the strike hammer and rod. The gathering pallet for the rack was bent and therefore could not advance the rack. In any event the strike side did not function at all. Thus began my search for a donor movement.
I was specifically searching for a Gustav Becker “Braunau” factory movement to provide the correct parts for my clock. The donor movement came from Poland. From the serial number on the donor movement I was able to determine that it was made 16 years after the movement that came with the clock. Minor differences were expected. The plates were thinner, the lever springs were a different design, the minute arbour shaft was slightly thicker and the star wheel/snail, gathering pallet and hammer/rod and were not a good fit for my old movement. A disappointment, the parts were not interchangeable. Out went the old movement and in went the new movement.
NOTE: I kept the old movement and if I sell the clock in the future I will disclose that change and others.
On to other issues
The spun brass dial bezel is a replacement though correct for the period.
Upper left side trim piece
There are a couple of trim pieces that I suspect were probably added later on though when, I do not know.
Bottom centre finial
The bottom centre finial appears to be a replacement though probably correct for the period. The bottom finial has wormwood holes but the clock case itself does not have one bit of worm damage.
showing hour hand on dialMinute hand missing it’s centre bushing
The clock did not have Vienna regulator hands. They are Ogee clock hands. I searched the supply houses in Canada, the US and Britain and was surprised at the limited selection of Vienna regulator hands. The photo below shows replacement hands with the correct measurements. The hands are also from Poland. There must be quite a successful business in Poland parting out clocks and selling the pieces. The hands have not arrived yet.
Vienna clock hands
i later discovered that they are not the correct hands but they look good and they will do for now.
Are there other parts of the clock that are not original? Yes, but it does not change how I feel about this clock. It has provided me with an excellent learning experience and it allows me to view future purchases with a much more critical eye.
Caveat Emptor
There are many examples of FrankenClocks and you may even have one or two in your collection. There is a popular expression that I always find appropriate in these cases. It is Caveat Emptor (let the buyer beware), the principle that the buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Reputable auction houses will disclose repairs and replacement or questionable parts on a clock but do not depend on what the seller says on most popular online auction sites. It’s a jungle out there!
I am writing about an experience I had on a local for-sale site today and wonder if others have had the same happen to them. I found this Waterbury Halifax time-only wall clock for sale at a reasonable price.
It had issues. It was not running and the top centre finial was missing. I was assured by the prospective seller that they had the finial but that the spring was “broken”. The seller was not clear whether they meant the suspension spring or the main spring. A suspension spring replacement is an easy fix, the mainspring is a little more difficult. Since it only has one spring it was obvious that if either spring were “broken” the clock was not running. I was prepared to accept that since I can make the necessary repairs. Still, the price was reasonable.
We exchanged emails for a day or so. I asked questions about it’s condition and if there were any other issues and they responded appropriately all the while courting me as the buyer. Finally, I agreed to look at the clock with the intention of buying it and we arranged a time and a place for the exchange. It was a cash deal so a trip to the bank was necessary beforehand.
We set the time between 2 and 4 pm. At around 11:20 am I received an email which stated.
“Morning . The clock has been sold as of a few minutes ago. Thank you for your interest, have a great day.”
I replied, “Not very ethical”, and left it at that.
I believe I am correct. It is clear that the seller received a better offer though I have no way of knowing.
Should every clock collector have a Grandfather (tall case or long case) clock? No, but it was something I had always wanted.
Ridgeway tall case clock
In 2012 I was perusing a local for-sale site and came upon this particular Ridgeway grandfather clock. The ad said that the clock was in excellent condition. When I called the seller and asked what he meant by “excellent” he said, “You have to see it to believe it”. He was right. The brass was bright and shiny and the only indication of its age (1996) is slight tarnishing of the column capitals.
Unfortunately, this type of clock takes a real hit on the used market. The smaller homes that many folks prefer today simply means there there is no room for a clock this size.
Clock face showing moon dial and raised Arabic numerals
The clock has a graceful, regal look. It stands 83 inches tall, has a scalloped bonnet crown, functional blue moon dial with constellation, 5-rod Westminster chime with shut-off, stately columns with brass base and caps, raised Arabic numerals, oak solids and veneers, brass lyre pendulum with 10 5/8 polished bob and access panels on each side. It was made by the Pulsaski Furniture Company. The Pulaski company struggled financially in later years and was eventually bought out by the Howard Miller Clock Company in 2004. Howard Miller continues to offer the Ridgeway line.
Moon phase with constellation
And it came with the original cabinet key.
Original Ridgeway cabinet key
The seller advertised that it had a quality Keininger movement. Later ones did; this has a Hermle movement. In the 1990s the German clock company Hermle was the principle supplier.
Hermle movement
In this case the ubiquitous 451-033, with 114 cm pendulum and 60 bps.
Sussex model
The clock is very similar to the Sussex model as shown in this advertising brochure.
I have also seen the clock referred to as the Hamilton Country model. Nonetheless, it is impossible to verify since very little information about the original company exists to this day.
Lyre pendulum with brass bob
The clock runs very well and to within a minute a week. When it fails it is more cost effective to replace the movement rather than bring someone in to repair it. I will simply swap the movement out with an identical one since Hermle continues to make this movement to this day.
If you’re expecting a post about clocks from the Black Forest region of Germany, I apologize for the mix-up. This article is actually focused on the Forestville Clock Company of Canada.
Forestville clocks were assembled in Canada with foreign movements in local and foreign-made cases through the late 1920s to the mid-1970s.
This particular Forestville mantel clock is not particularly special but it comes with a story.
In 2013, during a visit to the Thousand Islands, my wife and I stopped by an antique store in Gananoque, Ontario. While browsing, I was drawn to a clock that caught my attention. I was somewhat familiar with the Forestville name, as the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto had assembled thousands of these clocks. The price tag on the back was $175, which seemed a bit high to me. We stayed overnight in the area and decided to return to the store the next day. When we did, a different clerk was on duty. Although I knew the price listed, I asked him what the clock was priced at, just out of curiosity. Without checking, he replied, “It’s $75,” and I bought it. Afterward, he noticed the price tag on the back and said, “You got a good deal.” I think he learned something that day.
History of the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto
The Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto, Ontario was founded by Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928. Both clock movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents’ company in the 1930s and later became a full-time employee in the late 1940s.
Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street East factory. Initially, imported mantel clocks and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener, but later the complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War, which also led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941. During the war years, this company imported its clock movements from England, the United States, and even France. However, starting in the mid-1950s German factories again became the source of most Forestville clocks, with Mauthe being a major supplier. (source: The Canadian Clock museum)
The Forestville Clock Company was very successful during the middle decades of the twentieth century. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and unfortunately, the company survived just a few more years under new leadership.
closeup of the dial
Both the movement and case were imported from Germany probably in the late 1960s or the early 1970s and the style reflects that period. There is a serial number on the backplate but it is not much help in dating the exact year the clock was made.
Movement showing evidence of over-oiling
As clock manufacturers were searching for efficiencies, lever escapements replaced floating balances and pendulums in the 1960s and 1970s. I much prefer a pendulum clock but clocks such as this have the advantage of operating on surfaces that are not level.
Lever escapement with speed regulator
This is a closeup of the strike lever mechanism.
Lever mechanism for strikeLifting mechanism for strike function
The three strike rods give the clock a “bim-bam” sound on the half-hour. Not unique but disctinctive.
This mantel clock is a handsome piece with great lines and makes a wonderful addition to my growing collection of antique and vintage clocks. However, it is quite dirty and will need a thorough cleaning. I’ll save that task for another post.
I acquired this beautiful Mauthe Horse Crown Vienna style wall clock in the fall. I inspected it carefully enough before the purchase but it was not until I got it home that I discovered a finial or perhaps a trim piece missing from the base area on the bottom.
Missing trim or finial
Once hung the clock did not look as balanced as it should. It did not look quite right and there was clear evidence of a piece missing when I inspected the bottom more closely.
I went to the usual clock parts sites to look for a finial or piece that would best fit the design of this turn of the century wall clock. There were a number of choices but I decided to get the base piece finial you see here. It is flat on one side and comes without a peg. It complements the style of the clock without making it look awkward and I think I struck the right balance. It may not be exactly like the original but it looks good enough to fool the casual observer or even an expert.
The trim piece came unfinished. I determined that the clock had an original walnut finish so proceeded to apply enough coats of stain on the trim piece to match the rest of the clock.
Here is the result.
Trim piece added to base of clock
Here is a shot of the clock from a couple of meters away. You can see that it is more “balanced” than before. it might even be period-correct judging from what I have seen on other Vienna style clocks.
A small detail makes a difference
From Perrin Canada
This cost me $6.70 for the trim piece / finial I purchased from Perrin Canada, $4.99 for the dark walnut stain and $.79 for a length of 5/16 dowel. This small detail makes a huge difference.
This is a Sessions Tambour style clock that I have been working on for the past two months. I bought it as a non-working clock. As I said in a previous post it is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a mahogany finish with faux inlay just south of the dial. It was made in the late 1920s or early 1930s. The case is finsihed and now for the re-assembly of the movement after a good cleaning.
The clock has a few issues aside from the missing pendulum bob. Once the movement was out I inspected the click on the time side and sure enough it had slipped off the teeth. These clicks were poorly designed and often fail. However I think one for the reasons why the click failed was because the arbor hook detached from the spring somehow, I don’t know for sure. I feel that two are connected. I filed the click, gave the rivet a gentle bang with a hammer to set it more firmly in place and now it seems to work as it should.
I recently bought an Ollie Baker spring winder and this was it’s first test. I had a heck of a time getting the main wheel arbor to hook onto the spring and really had to muscle with the inner part of the spring to get the curvature just right so that it could hook. At first I thought that the hook was the problem but as you can see the hook looks fine. Then I thought the spring was the problem but as I said, perseverance paid off. User interface error I suppose.
Mainspring arbor and hook
As others have said that is one of the common frustrations of working with clocks. But in the end I managed to get it to hook. The two springs are coiled and secured and are now waiting to be put back onto the movement. But not today! One victory today is enough. I will keep the reader informed as to my further progress with this clock which I am determined to get working.
Top plate and springs are missing in photo
It all seems to be coming together although like most things worth doing, it takes time. Let me know what you think and if you have a chance I have a poll that you can respond to. Thanks.
It is time to buy the tools I need for clock repair. I already have a number of basic tools to get me started; pliers, letdown chucks, screwdrivers, etc.
However, my first significant tool is an Ollie Baker Mainspring Winder which arrived from the USA today. It is pictured below. The Ollie Baker comes with an assortment of collars for every size of mainspring.
Olie Baker spring winder
The spring winder will enable me to inspect, clean, and re-install barreled or open springs on all the clocks I will be servicing. My first impression is that it is a robust and well-machined tool that will give years of service. Indeed, one of the most important tools for clock repair enthusiasts is the spring-winder.
I also ordered bushing kit #5488 from Perrinstoday which will enable me to have the bushings I need in order to use the Bergeon Bushing Machinethat I will purchase later on this year.
The Bergeon Bushing tool is “Swiss made” and exudes quality. In every clock, due to considerable wear, the plates have to be bushed from time to time. This tool allows the bushing of plates of various sizes. The kit includes driving punches, centering bit, stakes, and reamers. I can bush by hand which some folks do by using appropriate reamers and files but I know that a bushing machine is a must-have. The first photo shows a clock movement that I had professionally bushed. It required 5 bushings in all in addition to cleaning and oiling and it runs very well.
With these tools, I can progress more seriously into this most interesting hobby.
December 18th marks the day that my Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fan-top is off to repair.
Sadly this is a repair that I cannot perform myself at this stage of my learning. The problem is essentially a clutch plate off the centre arbor that is not engaging the gear for the strike side. The result is that the hour and minute hand do not move at all thus the centre arbor is quite loose. In the meantime I might as well have some bushing work and a thorough cleaning done.
Typically gingerbread clocks go for almost nothing on the for-sale sites. The fact that this is a Pequegnat means something special however and in my view it is worth preserving for years to come.
Here is the problem area.
Clutch cup is loose
Although it is difficult to visualize from this photo, the cup clutch plate is very loose and needs to be reattached to allow a firm connection to the gear beneath. As such I am prepared to put a little money into this clock and keep it in my collection.
Another wall clock has joined my collection, so let’s take a closer look at what I’ve acquired and whether it was worth the price I paid.
Time and strike movement, 116 BPM
The clock was advertised locally in the Truro, Nova Scotia area. The seller knew little about it beyond its provenance, but what he did share was an interesting, albeit brief, story.
In the early 1980s, his wife brought the clock over from Holland, where it had been in her family for several generations. Sadly, his wife passed away three years ago. Had she been alive, I’m sure I would have learned much more about the clock’s history. The seller was understandably hesitant to part with it, as it served as a happy reminder of his past life. However, he was entering a new phase of his life with a new partner, which meant letting go of furniture and other possessions. Like him, I also view life as a series of phases. The clock was priced at $100, firm and non-negotiable.
This two-train (time and strike) spring-wound clock could be described as being in the style of a Vienna Regulator. As expected, the movement is quite dirty—a common issue for clocks like this that have often never been serviced. However, there are signs that adjustments were made at some point, evidenced by marks on several screws in the movement.
The clock is largely intact, except for a missing finial at the center of the bottom base. Why this particular part? According to the seller, the clock was brought over in a suitcase, and to make it fit, the bottom finial was snapped off and lost forever.
Movement showing FMS Mauthe trademark
The clock is over 100 years old, with my research indicating it was made between 1895 and 1914, though the exact year of manufacture remains uncertain. The trademark—a Friedrich Mauthe of Schwenningen (FMS) emblem featuring three spokes with an eagle on top—is distinctive, as Mauthe trademarks are known to reflect the specific period during which the clock was produced.
Despite some benign neglect, the case is in good condition, and everything appears to be original, including the winding key.
The crown
The crown fits into a slot at the top of the clock and can be easily removed if the clock needs to be relocated. The crown is made of wood, while the horse appears to be crafted from a casting material of some kind.
The face
The dial is made of celluloid and has darkened with age. Inside the dial surround, there is a leaf-like emblem, a common design feature from this period.
The base and bottom finials
The base is fairly plain, though the bottom center finial is missing. I plan to replace it.
The coil gong
The coil gong and block with attached movement rails are characteristic of the period.
History of FMS Mauthe
Mauthe clocks have a long and distinguished history in Germany. In 1844, Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. By the late 1860s, Mauthe began manufacturing its own wall clocks and movements. In 1876, Friedrich’s sons Christian (1845-1909) and James (1847-1915) took over the company. In 1886, Mauthe began producing its own springs. Around 1900, the company expanded its offerings to include alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks, and the so-called “Buffet Uhren” or “Buffet clocks.” In 1904, the third generation took charge: Eugene Schreiber (1877-1939), son of Christian Mauthe; Dr. Fritz Mauthe (1875-1951), son of Jacob Mauthe; and Alfred Mauthe (1879-1911), son of Jacob Mauthe, helped build upon the foundation of the company.
In 1925, Mauthe introduced a new trademark featuring a right-facing eagle with outstretched wings, clutching a three-part round plate inscribed with the letters F, M, and S. By the 1930s, the company was producing around 45,000 clocks per week, with approximately 60% destined for export markets like England. In the mid-1930s, Mauthe began manufacturing its first wristwatches, some of which were supplied to the German Army (“Wehrmacht”). After 1946, Mauthe resumed wristwatch production, but the company eventually entered a period of decline.
Was it worth $100? I would say yes, but it’s on the higher end of what I would typically pay for a clock like this.
Now, it’s time to clean the clock, install a new bottom middle finial, and add it to the queue for servicing.
In November 2015, I added an Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf “fan top” to my collection. The clock was advertised as non-running, and the seller’s description was accurate—it had its share of challenges. While gingerbread-style kitchen clocks don’t typically appeal to me, I felt that, as a Canadian, if I were to own one, it should be a Pequegnat.
This clock dates back to the Berlin era (before 1917, when Berlin was renamed Kitchener, Ontario) and features the signature nickel-plated steel plates with brass bushings, characteristic of most time-and-strike Pequegnat clocks.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf Kitchen Clock
The clock is complete with its Maple Leaf bob, an original untouched dial, most of its label, and a remarkably well-preserved maple leaf decal on the front glass.
Berlin Ontario label, mostly intactMaple Leaf bobMaple Leaf decal
I managed to get the clock in beat by adjusting the verge, but the minute arbor is quite loose, causing the minute and hour hands to stay stationary. Instead of attempting a full repair on my own, I’m considering having the clock professionally serviced. In the meantime, I plan to remove the movement from the case to examine the issue further. It could be a simple fix—or something more complex.
The mottled finish on the entire case
The case poses another challenge. While it has no chips, cracks, or missing pieces, the seller believed the mottled finish added character. I strongly disagree—it’s far from appealing.
To gather restoration ideas, I shared this clock on theNAWCC forum site. Although the finish might be original, it appears the clock was stored in a hot environment, causing the finish to degrade. As one forum member explained, “The case was likely subjected to heat (stored in the attic), and the shellac finish has melted into the alligatored appearance you see now.” When shellac softens, it attracts airborne dirt, further compromising the surface.
Although I’m capable of refinishing the case, the movement also requires repair. After inspecting it, I’ve realized the cost of professional repairs is currently beyond my budget. However, I plan to educate myself on servicing antique clocks and intend to handle the repairs myself.
I did not pay much for this Sessions tambour style clock (circa 1927) though my first thought when I picked it up was that I paid a little too much, such was the work that awaited me. This was obviously a non-working clock when I received it and it did not take much to discover why. It also came without a key and a pendulum bob. Not a problem since I have an extra bob and a universal key set.
Refinished clock case
I suspected a problem when I first saw it advertised. When I finally picked it up I noticed that the strike side spring was fully wound while the time side was completely unwound.
Spring is in good shape
a clamp is holding the strike side spring in place
A turn of the key on the time side told me that nothing was engaging . I suspected three things; a broken spring, broken click or unhooked spring. It turned out to be a broken click. Here it how I found the time side mainspring wheel (see photo below). The click engaged very poorly and ultimately slipped quite a bit making it impossible to wind. Sessions are great clocks but they have a dubious reputation for their click design and the clicks quite often fail over time.
click is loose and worn
and the repair.
Click is filed and tapped firmly into place
The click was filed down and the rivet was made secure by tapping the back lightly with a ball pean hammer on a vice. Brass is pretty soft and easy to work with.
The clock was disassembled and the parts were first cleaned by hand and then placed in an ultrasonic cleaner. The bushing holes were pegged and the pivots were polished. I did not detect any serious bushing wear though at some time in the next year or two the clock will probably require some bushing work.
I test fit the movement but have not put on the top plate just yet since I am waiting for my spring winder to arrive.
Test fitting of wheels and parts
The case was in poor shape and as mentioned in a previous post I stained, used steel wool and applied 3 clear coats to bring the case back to a presentable condition. I am pretty confident that once everything is all back together the clock should run nicely and be a fine addition to my collection.
This is a Sessions Tambour style clock that, according to the label on the inside back access door is a Beveled Number 2. Seems like an odd name for a clock. It is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a mahogany finish with faux inlay just below the dial. It is a time and strike clock, two hammers striking on rods. I would put the date of manufacture at the late 1930s or early 1940s. I have 2 other Sessions clocks with a very similar movement so it looks very familiar. This one came without a pendulum bob so I will have to order one from Timesavers. I am not sure at this point whether the bob is a 2.3 oz or 3 oz so I will order both.
The clock has a few issues aside from the missing pendulum bob. I noticed right away that the time side arbor turned freely and therefore it was impossible to wind the time arbor as the click was not engaging the time spring teeth properly. Once the movement was out I inspected the click on the time side and sure enough it had slipped off the teeth.
The time side click is barely engaged
This is a common problem with this type of movement and a repair is definitely in order. The movement itself is very oily and dirty having been sprayed with some sort of lubricant at one point in its life. There was back gunk (old caked oil) on some of the pivots but there was not as much play in the bushing holes than I would have expected. The spring issue probably arose early in its life. One thing which I first thought was an issue turns out not to be. As the photo shows there are helper wires between the escapement and the fly.
Helper wires
They keep the strike levers from bouncing and assure better operation of the striking mechanism. They are in factory installed condition.
Very dirty movement, time side on left
The case was a little banged up. I did a little sanding with 0000 steel wool, removed dozens upon dozens of white paint drops, filled gouges in the veneer with a red chestnut stain and applied the same stain over the entire finish and it seems to pass for mahogany.
Case refresh
A little Brasso metal polish was applied to bring the shine up on the bezel and I Windexed the dial glass inside and out. The results, I think, are impressive. As a final stage I will apply a clear coat on the case.
Can I get this clock to work? I am convinced that if I can fix the time side click, give it a thorough cleaning, this clock will run fine for a long time.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
You must be logged in to post a comment.