I got a lead through a email a few days ago on a Braunau movement that was up for sale on EBay and I am happy to say that I purchased it today. It should arrive by post in the next few days.
My plan is to either take the parts out of the replacement movement or use it if it is in better condition. My inclination is to keep the movement that came with the clock rather than create a “Franken-clock”. It is preferable to keep the clock as true to the original as possible.
However, I am sure that over the years many clocks have benefited from replacement parts and after 114 years clocks such as this probably had repairs that might have included the odd part replaced. On my movement there have been 4 new bushings installed and one lever post repaired. Who knows what other parts might have been added over the years. The top plate is the only real indication I have that the clock was made in late 1902 and the clock case certainly fits that period.
This movement has one other issue that I can see. There is a lever with a pin that rotates and advances the rack. It is the gathering pallet. In the photo below you can see the pallet, indicated by the black arrow. In the photo that follows you will see that the pin that is attached to the pallet is bent. The bent pin does not allow the pallet to advance the rack. Hence the strike train does not work. So, it must be unbent or replaced.
Black arrow showing the location of the pinBent pin on lever
The risk is snapping the pin off if I make an attempt to straighten it. I will wait to see if the replacement movement has a pallet that is in better condition and if so, a straight swap.
Movement is nearly dis-assembled
The last photo shows the movement almost apart and prior to cleaning and polishing.
This Gustav Becker came to me as a project clock and I am determined to get it running. In the meantime I have installed the time side gears to check the time train and the clock is running and keeping proper time. Obviously it does not strike but in time that will be rectified.
A diminutive size, this clock was made around 1930 just a couple of years before the Waterbury Clock Company was placed in receivership. It is a solid oak case measuring 19 inches long by 12 inches wide, with a paper dial marked Waterbury, a black and gold pendulum aperture, and 8-day time-only movement. The bottom of the dial says, ” Made in the USA by Waterbury Clock Company”, Connecticut.
While the clock is a strong runner there are obvious issues concerning the paper dial and the lack of a brass bezel. The dial plate does not have to be changed out but the clock is in need of a brass bezel, hinge and convex glass. Although the style might be slightly different on a replacement bezel, it is clearly required to complete the look. I have decided to retain the paper dial as an exact replacement is impossible or so I have found so far in my research. Half of the paper dial has become unglued from the dial pan. Two-sided tape in three locations was the fix. I may touch up the numbers 7, 8, and 9. We`ll see.
Pendulum bob
The Waterbury Clock Company was incorporated in the city of Waterbury, Connecticut, on March 5, 1857. Up until the Great Depression Waterbury had been quite prosperous. But like so many companies, most of the profits lined the pockets of its Directors instead of being reinvested in new equipment and updated facilities thus hastening its rapid decline. In 1932 the company was bought and re-organized under the name Ingersoll-Waterbury.and in later years the company morphed into the Timex Corporation. If you peruse the Timex site today you will see a line of Timex watches called the Waterbury collection. Timex is certainly acknowledging a link to its past.
Instructions for the clock
The instructions came with the clock and I smiled when I read them. “The long hand is the minute hand and the short hand is the hour hand”.
A inexpensive acquisition and only a few dollars to add glass and a bezel to complete the clock.
As you know from reading my last post concerning this fine timepiece I am appealing to anyone who knows anything about these particular clocks to assist me in finding a critical part for the strike side. The part is called the “star wheel / snail”. Without it the strike side will not function. The time side will happily run without it.
The photo that follows is a movement with the star wheel intact (my apologies, it is a grab from EBay). Look closely towards the bottom just off centre you will see a wheel shaped like a star with a snail type assembly on top, hence the name. That is the one I am missing. Why it was taken off my clock movement is a mystery to me but it is what it is. A couple of guesses; someone did not want the clock to strike for whatever reason or two, it was a donor clock for another.
If you look closely in the next photo towards the bottom centre it shows my clock without the star wheel. Both of these are Braunau movements.
Showing the star wheel and snail which are one piece
My clock showing missing star wheel and snail
Gustav Becker clocks of that era were essentially made in two factories, the Frieberg Works and the later Braunau Works. My clock is from the Braunau factory. The star wheel must be from a Braunau clock as the design of that wheel was slightly different than ones from Silesia clocks.
If you know of a source or you happen to have one lying around (LOL) please email me.
Oh, and one more thing. If you happen to know the size suspension spring I need that would be great. I am missing that too.
Pendulum rod near suspension spring mount. The strike rod is just to the left
There is no prize for assisting me but if you do I will give you digital hug!
This is a Gustav Becker 2 weight “Vienna Regulator” made at the Braunau factory in 1902. The serial number is a confirmed match for the numbered series built during that period. The clock was made in the Gustav Becker Braunau works in Bohemia (now Broumov, Czech Repulic), in mid-1902. The Braunau operation started up in February 1888 and would have been producing clocks up until 1925. Bohemia is a province in the Habsburg Austrian Empire hence the reference to clocks during that period referred to as Vienna Regulator style. The definition of a Vienna Regulator is a debatable point and I will leave that up to the reader to decide.
Some notable features are the inverted keyhole movement mount, rod gong and a wood pendulum rod with brass covered zinc. There are intricately carved trim pieces, certainly a common feature of the craftsmanship found in higher end clocks of that period. The clock is 51 inches tall and is a commanding presence on any wall and certainly a great addition to our living room.
What is missing in the photo are the two weights which at this point are not attached; the condition of the cables are suspect. Replacement cables are on the list. There is also a small part of the right bottom finial which has to be reattached (glued).
The bottom middle finial is also not attached. The bottom middle finial is in the freezer right now because I noticed that it was the only part of the clock with woodworm holes. I inspected the finial carefully, banged it on white paper and not a bit of dust or dead insects. This is a good sign and one indication that the worms and their larvae have been long gone but as an extra precaution a few days in the freezer won’t hurt and once it gets to -30C here in Nova Scotia a little time outside won’t do any harm either. I am not at the point where I will introduce it to chemicals as my best guess is that the problem insects have simply left their mark and have since departed. There is no indication of any worm holes on the clock itself which leads me to believe that the bottom middle finial may not be original. Chemical eradication appears to be the only course of action it seems as freezing does nothing.
some pieces had to be reattached
At the moment this clock is not working. The clock needs a very good cleaning and possible bushing work. I have not opened it up yet to investigate further but my first inspection of the moment is that it has not seen maintenance in some time. This will be one of my first steps.
This is a good project and from time to time I will detail my progress on this fine European clock.
This clock has been sitting on my workbench for a couple of months. It is an attractive little Sessions tambour style mantel clock, very popular in the 1930s. I spent a little time refurbishing the case, have had good success making it look presentable compared to when it first arrived. The case was marred and it looked like it had been kicking around in a basement or a busy street (LOL) for a number of years. After a thorough ultrasonic cleaning and polishing of the pivots it is time to re-assemble the movement.
It was very inexpensive clock and a great one to hone my skills in clock repair and case restoration. One of my tasks was to use it for bushing practice but my Bergeon bushing machine is back ordered and it does not look like it will arrive until April. I really do not want to learn how to hand bush, I will leave that to the traditionalists. The bushings are in good shape and I am confident it will run but eventually it will need bushing work.
The first challenge after dis-assembly was to clean the movement and the springs. When I first pulled it out of the case, the time spring had completely let go as a result of a click failure. You can see the retracted spring in the photo below. Click failures are a common problem with Sessions movements. In fact, I have another Sessions Westminster chime clock with the same issue.
I cleaned and lubricated both springs. Everything went well until I tried to hook one of the springs to the winding arbor. After many tries I managed to massage the spring around the arbor with needle-nosed pliers and it finally hooked. The other spring was fine. Let’s hope it stays put and lets hope my click repair is successful.
Click failed and time side will not wind
The next photo shows everything in place on the bottom plate. You will see some strange looking wires which appear to be added to the movement but they are actually helper wires installed at the time the clock was made, essential to allow retraction / movement of some of the levers.
All gears in place and ready for the top plate
Getting the top plate on can be frustrating without the proper tool. One such tool is a pivot locator. It is a hooked device about 8 inches long that allows one to position the pivots into the bushings with minimal fuss.
Here is the assembled movement with the springs clamped for safety. You will notice the top plate appears to be dirty. In fact, this is some kind of lacquer residue. I am not into aesthetics and have chosen not to buff out the plates. A repair shop might for appearance-sake. The important things is that the mechanism is clean, which, of course, it is.
Assembled movement
As I have others things on the go I have not tested this movement yet though I checked the action of the time side and the count wheel and they seem to be moving without restriction.
The next phase is testing and if necessary, minor adjustments.
This takes the cakeMy wife bought me a Gustav Becker 2-weight regulator at a popular auction site and while I haven’t received it just yet she had to show me what it looked like in a most unusual way. She thought that a photo would not do so she had someone make a cake from the auction site photo so that I could enjoy it before it came. That someone has a cake making business and as you can see she is very talented. It was awful hard to cut into it though.
The Gustav Becker clock which should be here in the next few days was advertised as a “project” clock so I am not expecting a perfect clock. According to the seller the strike hammer is missing although the crown, movement, weights, base, dial and pendulum are said to be original. We’ll see what else is missing when it arrives.
You can see the real clock in the following images.
Seller’s photo of Gustav Becker wall clockRegulator weightsMovement and cables
Clock collectors usually pride themselves in having at least one Gustav Becker (GB) clock in their collection with earlier clocks commanding high prices. Indeed, Gustav Becker is one of the better known clock companies of the mid 1800s to 1930. In 1850 Gustav Becker opened workshops in Freiburg and Silesia, Germany. At first, Becker struggled with untrained help, but won the “Medaille d’Or” for design at the 1852 Silesia Trade Exposition. Becker incorporated that first medal and his initials, G.B., into his trademark and into many components of his clocks, from movement, mounts to wall standoffs to beat-plates and pulleys.
Once he received the award he was able to attract skilled craftsmen to his various workshops. Until 1880 most Becker clocks were weight driven regulators but spring driven clocks followed.
Becker clocks are not too difficult to identify. Serial numbers on the clocks identify the year of manufacture. The cases of these clocks reflect the ornate furniture trends of the day and range from very simple to elaborately constructed. The casework is extraordinarily well done and often incorporates hand carving. Germany has never lacked for skilled carvers and the talent of the region’s artisans is evidenced in the Becker clock cases.
In 1926 the brand as well as the later acquisitions of Lenzkirch and Thomas Haller were absorbed by Junghans. Junghans continued to produce clocks under the Gustav Becker name until the early 1930s. While GB clocks are relatively easy to identify by their serial numbers, one way to identify a GB under the Junghans name is the serial number which was restarted at 0001 after the take over.
Does frustration await me? We`ll see. I will be posting updates on this fine timepiece as I progress through the restoration process.
I acquired this beautiful Mauthe Horse Crown Vienna style wall clock in the fall. I inspected it carefully enough before the purchase but it was not until I got it home that I discovered a finial or perhaps a trim piece missing from the base area on the bottom.
Missing trim or finial
Once hung the clock did not look as balanced as it should. It did not look quite right and there was clear evidence of a piece missing when I inspected the bottom more closely.
I went to the usual clock parts sites to look for a finial or piece that would best fit the design of this turn of the century wall clock. There were a number of choices but I decided to get the base piece finial you see here. It is flat on one side and comes without a peg. It complements the style of the clock without making it look awkward and I think I struck the right balance. It may not be exactly like the original but it looks good enough to fool the casual observer or even an expert.
The trim piece came unfinished. I determined that the clock had an original walnut finish so proceeded to apply enough coats of stain on the trim piece to match the rest of the clock.
Here is the result.
Trim piece added to base of clock
Here is a shot of the clock from a couple of meters away. You can see that it is more “balanced” than before. it might even be period-correct judging from what I have seen on other Vienna style clocks.
A small detail makes a differenceFrom Perrin Canada
This cost me $6.70 for the trim piece / finial I purchased from Perrin Canada, $4.99 for the dark walnut stain and $.79 for a length of 5/16 dowel. This small detail makes a huge difference.
This is a Sessions Tambour style clock that I have been working on for the past two months. I bought it as a non-working clock. As I said in a previous post it is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a mahogany finish with faux inlay just south of the dial. It was made in the late 1920s or early 1930s. The case is finsihed and now for the re-assembly of the movement after a good cleaning.
The clock has a few issues aside from the missing pendulum bob. Once the movement was out I inspected the click on the time side and sure enough it had slipped off the teeth. These clicks were poorly designed and often fail. However I think one for the reasons why the click failed was because the arbor hook detached from the spring somehow, I don’t know for sure. I feel that two are connected. I filed the click, gave the rivet a gentle bang with a hammer to set it more firmly in place and now it seems to work as it should.
I recently bought an Ollie Baker spring winder and this was it’s first test. I had a heck of a time getting the main wheel arbor to hook onto the spring and really had to muscle with the inner part of the spring to get the curvature just right so that it could hook. At first I thought that the hook was the problem but as you can see the hook looks fine. Then I thought the spring was the problem but as I said, perseverance paid off. User interface error I suppose.
Mainspring arbor and hook
As others have said that is one of the common frustrations of working with clocks. But in the end I managed to get it to hook. The two springs are coiled and secured and are now waiting to be put back onto the movement. But not today! One victory today is enough. I will keep the reader informed as to my further progress with this clock which I am determined to get working.
Top plate and springs are missing in photo
It all seems to be coming together although like most things worth doing, it takes time. Let me know what you think and if you have a chance I have a poll that you can respond to. Thanks.
It is time to buy the tools I need for clock repair. I already have a number of basic tools to get me started; pliers, letdown chucks, screwdrivers, etc.
However, my first significant tool is an Ollie Baker Mainspring Winder which arrived from the USA today. It is pictured below. The Ollie Baker comes with an assortment of collars for every size of mainspring.
Olie Baker spring winder
The spring winder will enable me to inspect, clean, and re-install barreled or open springs on all the clocks I will be servicing. My first impression is that it is a robust and well-machined tool that will give years of service. Indeed, one of the most important tools for clock repair enthusiasts is the spring-winder.
I also ordered bushing kit #5488 from Perrinstoday which will enable me to have the bushings I need in order to use the Bergeon Bushing Machinethat I will purchase later on this year.
The Bergeon Bushing tool is “Swiss made” and exudes quality. In every clock, due to considerable wear, the plates have to be bushed from time to time. This tool allows the bushing of plates of various sizes. The kit includes driving punches, centering bit, stakes, and reamers. I can bush by hand which some folks do by using appropriate reamers and files but I know that a bushing machine is a must-have. The first photo shows a clock movement that I had professionally bushed. It required 5 bushings in all in addition to cleaning and oiling and it runs very well.
With these tools, I can progress more seriously into this most interesting hobby.
December 18th marks the day that my Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fan-top is off to repair.
Sadly this is a repair that I cannot perform myself at this stage of my learning. The problem is essentially a clutch plate off the centre arbor that is not engaging the gear for the strike side. The result is that the hour and minute hand do not move at all thus the centre arbor is quite loose. In the meantime I might as well have some bushing work and a thorough cleaning done.
Typically gingerbread clocks go for almost nothing on the for-sale sites. The fact that this is a Pequegnat means something special however and in my view it is worth preserving for years to come.
Here is the problem area.
Clutch cup is loose
Although it is difficult to visualize from this photo, the cup clutch plate is very loose and needs to be reattached to allow a firm connection to the gear beneath. As such I am prepared to put a little money into this clock and keep it in my collection.
Another wall clock has joined my collection, so let’s take a closer look at what I’ve acquired and whether it was worth the price I paid.
Time and strike movement, 116 BPM
The clock was advertised locally in the Truro, Nova Scotia area. The seller knew little about it beyond its provenance, but what he did share was an interesting, albeit brief, story.
In the early 1980s, his wife brought the clock over from Holland, where it had been in her family for several generations. Sadly, his wife passed away three years ago. Had she been alive, I’m sure I would have learned much more about the clock’s history. The seller was understandably hesitant to part with it, as it served as a happy reminder of his past life. However, he was entering a new phase of his life with a new partner, which meant letting go of furniture and other possessions. Like him, I also view life as a series of phases. The clock was priced at $100, firm and non-negotiable.
This two-train (time and strike) spring-wound clock could be described as being in the style of a Vienna Regulator. As expected, the movement is quite dirty—a common issue for clocks like this that have often never been serviced. However, there are signs that adjustments were made at some point, evidenced by marks on several screws in the movement.
The clock is largely intact, except for a missing finial at the center of the bottom base. Why this particular part? According to the seller, the clock was brought over in a suitcase, and to make it fit, the bottom finial was snapped off and lost forever.
Movement showing FMS Mauthe trademark
The clock is over 100 years old, with my research indicating it was made between 1895 and 1914, though the exact year of manufacture remains uncertain. The trademark—a Friedrich Mauthe of Schwenningen (FMS) emblem featuring three spokes with an eagle on top—is distinctive, as Mauthe trademarks are known to reflect the specific period during which the clock was produced.
Despite some benign neglect, the case is in good condition, and everything appears to be original, including the winding key.
The crown
The crown fits into a slot at the top of the clock and can be easily removed if the clock needs to be relocated. The crown is made of wood, while the horse appears to be crafted from a casting material of some kind.
The face
The dial is made of celluloid and has darkened with age. Inside the dial surround, there is a leaf-like emblem, a common design feature from this period.
The base and bottom finials
The base is fairly plain, though the bottom center finial is missing. I plan to replace it.
The coil gong
The coil gong and block with attached movement rails are characteristic of the period.
History of FMS Mauthe
Mauthe clocks have a long and distinguished history in Germany. In 1844, Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. By the late 1860s, Mauthe began manufacturing its own wall clocks and movements. In 1876, Friedrich’s sons Christian (1845-1909) and James (1847-1915) took over the company. In 1886, Mauthe began producing its own springs. Around 1900, the company expanded its offerings to include alarm clocks, pendulum wall clocks, grandfather clocks, office clocks, and the so-called “Buffet Uhren” or “Buffet clocks.” In 1904, the third generation took charge: Eugene Schreiber (1877-1939), son of Christian Mauthe; Dr. Fritz Mauthe (1875-1951), son of Jacob Mauthe; and Alfred Mauthe (1879-1911), son of Jacob Mauthe, helped build upon the foundation of the company.
In 1925, Mauthe introduced a new trademark featuring a right-facing eagle with outstretched wings, clutching a three-part round plate inscribed with the letters F, M, and S. By the 1930s, the company was producing around 45,000 clocks per week, with approximately 60% destined for export markets like England. In the mid-1930s, Mauthe began manufacturing its first wristwatches, some of which were supplied to the German Army (“Wehrmacht”). After 1946, Mauthe resumed wristwatch production, but the company eventually entered a period of decline.
Was it worth $100? I would say yes, but it’s on the higher end of what I would typically pay for a clock like this.
Now, it’s time to clean the clock, install a new bottom middle finial, and add it to the queue for servicing.
I have had this Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fan-top clock for several weeks now and have decided to keep it in my collection. I was not satisfied with the condition of the case when I first saw it and knew that something had to be done. After several hours of work on the case I can finally say that the results have been very good…not excellent because there are one or two things I would have done differently. For example, I originally used a cotton cloth to bring down the finish and ended up rubbing too aggressively in some sections. Looking back I would use 0000 steel wool from start to finish.
This shot is a comparison between the original finish and taken after hours of restoration.
Condition of clock when first brought home
After hours of rubbing and scrubbing
As you can see in the second photo the oak grain is natural and pronounced; the mottling has disappeared. As mentioned there were one or two spots where I was a little too aggressive with the steel wool which I may address later on but for the moment I am going to live with it.
I applied four coats of Amber Shellac and between coats I rubbed the finish with 0000 steel wool. Shellac is the proper approach for case restoration as that product would have been used at that time. The clock now looks very close to what it would have looked like at the time it was made which would be about 1910. The next photo shows the clock fully re-assembled and on display and the next, how it looked when I brought it home.
Ready to be brought to the clock shop for repair
Just brought home
Although I am able to dis-assemble, clean and oil a clock mechanism there is a problem with the center arbor not engaging the strike side of the clock. It is off to Doctor Clock in Halifax for repair and cleaning of the movement.
Although my newest Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock was complete in every way the case looked like something pretty dire happened to the finish.
I mentioned before that the clock was likely in a very warm environment for a long period (an attic perhaps) and while there are no cracks or breaks in the wood there was a lot of what I called mottling.
What you see in the first photo is the condition of the case when I first got it. Some might like it that way, I don’t. The seller thought it added “character”. Hmm!
I sought some advice on the NAWCC forum site by asking a few questions and was informed that a member had put together a recipe for this kind of situation. The recipe included turpentine, alcohol, vinegar, boiled linseed oil and 000 steel wool. I found that it worked to a point but the mottling was quite pronounced and I finally had to resort to lacquer thinner and steel wool to take the stubborn stuff off.
Ingredients for restoration
In some small spots I made the mistake of rubbing too enthusiastically and got down down to the bare wood but I will cover those areas later with tinted shellac a wood covering which was used at the time (circa 1910).
One step closer to the finished product
The photos might show the case as darker than it is but it is a golden oak which will be close to the final product . I may have to do a little research on shellac from this point onward but I will report on my findings. Thus far a lot of the grunt work has been done.
This is taken at the final stage after the first treatment with steel wool and lacquer thinner and the mixture described above. As you can see the case has undergone a dramatic change although it is far from finished. The carved detailing is also beginning to show through.
I knew this Arthur Pequegnat clock had issues when I bought it but I felt that I just had to have a gingerbread clock for my collection. It is a beautiful clock and once fully restored it will be a show piece.
After taking the clock out of its case and investigating further I think I have located the problem and it appears that a previous owner had attempted a fix. Perhaps the repair attempt was made by the owner himself since it looks like a poor effort because of scratch and dent marks on a particular washer that can be seen in the next photo.
The photo below shows the hour cannon and minute arbor. There is a brass washer located near a toothed gear that is very loose. The washer is not secured to the post. Because the washer is very loose there is no firm connection between the gear and the one immediately beneath it. The hour pinion should have a tight fit on the centre arbor. As a result of the slippage the time side works but does not engage the centre arbor.
The movement obviously needs to be taken apart. However, the problem is twofold. First I am able to dis-assemble the movement but I do not have the skills to fix the centre arbor issue. Secondly, the plates are steel (with nickel plating) with brass bushing inserts which are not likely to be easily knocked out and they do not match modern bushings from today’s suppliers. It would take special reaming tools to install new bushings, tools I do not have. However, I can see that it needs at least 6 new bushings.
Centre arbor
Closer view of the arbor showing a hole that has no purpose
In the meantime I can get to work on the case. The case was likely subjected to heat (stored in hot location like an attic for a long period) and the shellac finish has melted into the alligatored finish you see here.
The solution is a special mix of alcohol, boiled linseed oil, turpentine, lacquer and vinegar. It will require time and patience but I believe I can restore the case to its original condition. There are no cracks, nicks or gouges in the finish so I have a very good starting point, I think.
If you have any comments on this fine classic feel free to post.
In November 2015, I added an Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf “fan top” to my collection. The clock was advertised as non-running, and the seller’s description was accurate—it had its share of challenges. While gingerbread-style kitchen clocks don’t typically appeal to me, I felt that, as a Canadian, if I were to own one, it should be a Pequegnat.
This clock dates back to the Berlin era (before 1917, when Berlin was renamed Kitchener, Ontario) and features the signature nickel-plated steel plates with brass bushings, characteristic of most time-and-strike Pequegnat clocks.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf Kitchen Clock
The clock is complete with its Maple Leaf bob, an original untouched dial, most of its label, and a remarkably well-preserved maple leaf decal on the front glass.
Berlin Ontario label, mostly intactMaple Leaf bobMaple Leaf decal
I managed to get the clock in beat by adjusting the verge, but the minute arbor is quite loose, causing the minute and hour hands to stay stationary. Instead of attempting a full repair on my own, I’m considering having the clock professionally serviced. In the meantime, I plan to remove the movement from the case to examine the issue further. It could be a simple fix—or something more complex.
The mottled finish on the entire case
The case poses another challenge. While it has no chips, cracks, or missing pieces, the seller believed the mottled finish added character. I strongly disagree—it’s far from appealing.
To gather restoration ideas, I shared this clock on theNAWCC forum site. Although the finish might be original, it appears the clock was stored in a hot environment, causing the finish to degrade. As one forum member explained, “The case was likely subjected to heat (stored in the attic), and the shellac finish has melted into the alligatored appearance you see now.” When shellac softens, it attracts airborne dirt, further compromising the surface.
Although I’m capable of refinishing the case, the movement also requires repair. After inspecting it, I’ve realized the cost of professional repairs is currently beyond my budget. However, I plan to educate myself on servicing antique clocks and intend to handle the repairs myself.
I did not pay much for this Sessions tambour style clock (circa 1927) though my first thought when I picked it up was that I paid a little too much, such was the work that awaited me. This was obviously a non-working clock when I received it and it did not take much to discover why. It also came without a key and a pendulum bob. Not a problem since I have an extra bob and a universal key set.
Refinished clock case
I suspected a problem when I first saw it advertised. When I finally picked it up I noticed that the strike side spring was fully wound while the time side was completely unwound.
Spring is in good shape
a clamp is holding the strike side spring in place
A turn of the key on the time side told me that nothing was engaging . I suspected three things; a broken spring, broken click or unhooked spring. It turned out to be a broken click. Here it how I found the time side mainspring wheel (see photo below). The click engaged very poorly and ultimately slipped quite a bit making it impossible to wind. Sessions are great clocks but they have a dubious reputation for their click design and the clicks quite often fail over time.
click is loose and worn
and the repair.
Click is filed and tapped firmly into place
The click was filed down and the rivet was made secure by tapping the back lightly with a ball pean hammer on a vice. Brass is pretty soft and easy to work with.
The clock was disassembled and the parts were first cleaned by hand and then placed in an ultrasonic cleaner. The bushing holes were pegged and the pivots were polished. I did not detect any serious bushing wear though at some time in the next year or two the clock will probably require some bushing work.
I test fit the movement but have not put on the top plate just yet since I am waiting for my spring winder to arrive.
Test fitting of wheels and parts
The case was in poor shape and as mentioned in a previous post I stained, used steel wool and applied 3 clear coats to bring the case back to a presentable condition. I am pretty confident that once everything is all back together the clock should run nicely and be a fine addition to my collection.
This is a Sessions Tambour style clock that, according to the label on the inside back access door is a Beveled Number 2. Seems like an odd name for a clock. It is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a mahogany finish with faux inlay just below the dial. It is a time and strike clock, two hammers striking on rods. I would put the date of manufacture at the late 1930s or early 1940s. I have 2 other Sessions clocks with a very similar movement so it looks very familiar. This one came without a pendulum bob so I will have to order one from Timesavers. I am not sure at this point whether the bob is a 2.3 oz or 3 oz so I will order both.
The clock has a few issues aside from the missing pendulum bob. I noticed right away that the time side arbor turned freely and therefore it was impossible to wind the time arbor as the click was not engaging the time spring teeth properly. Once the movement was out I inspected the click on the time side and sure enough it had slipped off the teeth.
The time side click is barely engaged
This is a common problem with this type of movement and a repair is definitely in order. The movement itself is very oily and dirty having been sprayed with some sort of lubricant at one point in its life. There was back gunk (old caked oil) on some of the pivots but there was not as much play in the bushing holes than I would have expected. The spring issue probably arose early in its life. One thing which I first thought was an issue turns out not to be. As the photo shows there are helper wires between the escapement and the fly.
Helper wires
They keep the strike levers from bouncing and assure better operation of the striking mechanism. They are in factory installed condition.
Very dirty movement, time side on left
The case was a little banged up. I did a little sanding with 0000 steel wool, removed dozens upon dozens of white paint drops, filled gouges in the veneer with a red chestnut stain and applied the same stain over the entire finish and it seems to pass for mahogany.
Case refresh
A little Brasso metal polish was applied to bring the shine up on the bezel and I Windexed the dial glass inside and out. The results, I think, are impressive. As a final stage I will apply a clear coat on the case.
Can I get this clock to work? I am convinced that if I can fix the time side click, give it a thorough cleaning, this clock will run fine for a long time.
I have been thinking of expanding my collection of wall clocks lately after acquiring a good sampling of mantle and shelf clocks.
I picked up this clock not far from where I live. It is an Ansonia octagonal short drop commonly known as a schoolhouse clock. I am putting the date of manufacture at around the turn of the 20th century though I cannot quite pin down the year. The number 12 is stamped on the movement which could refer to the year “1912”, or even the month of a year. The letters “TT” are also on the movement. This is my first Ansonia clock.
The gentleman I bought it from told me that this clock has been in his family for over 50 years and “I never saw it running”, he says. He was in the process of liquidating his mother’s estate and was loath to give it up as it had been a favorite of hers. He also said that it came out of a schoolhouse in Ontario, Canada; where, he did not know. The case is in great shape though there are other minor issues. One, the face has had some paint applied around the minute / hour pipe presumably to hide stains incurred from years of oily fingers winding and adjusting the clock.
Paint applied to the clock face
You can just barely make out the Ansonia trademark. The second issue is a missing bushing for the hour hand.
Missing bushing for 4 inch hour hand
The bushing inserts into the hour hand hole to friction fit with the hour pipe / cannon. I suspect that the clock was not running was for this very reason. Someone thought the clock was broken. It is an easy fix and requires buying or fashioning a new bushing.
Curiously, there were pieces of rotted elastic band on the pendulum rod just below the suspension spring. I have no clue why. You can still see a bit of it in this photo.
Time only Ansonia movement
Otherwise except for a little adjusting (bending of the crutch to get the beat right} the clock works well and has been ticking away for a day now. There is very little wear on the clock and no obvious bushing issues that I can see although I will have to take the movement out of its case for a further inspection and a thorough cleaning to determine what if anything needs fixing.
Much has been written about the Ansonia clock company. The company history can be found here. The Ansonia Clock Company went into receivership just before the stock market crashed in 1929, a foretelling of things to come, perhaps. The machinery and dies were sold to a Russian Company. A sad end to a glorious American company.
Postscript: I took the movement out of it’s case and found that the clock does indeed need 2-3 new bushings. The wear is not terrible and the clock runs fairly well but bushing work is in order. Once the new hour and minute hands arrive I will clean the movement, re-assemble the clock and display it until my bushing machine comes in the new year.
Nov 10th; new hands arrive in the mail. The hour hand has the required bushing and was an easy friction fit. Now looks and runs as it should.
Probably not a household name in its time, yet U. M. Müller produced clocks that could stand proudly beside the finest German makers of the early 20th century. Their box clocks, in particular, became strong competitors, capturing a market that was shifting away from the ornate Vienna regulator toward something more modern, practical, and affordable. By the 1930s, the sleek German box clock—with its simpler lines and middle-class appeal—had all but closed the Vienna regulator era.
This particular U. M. Müller is a striking example. The oak case features delicate carved inlays on the door, brass strip framing, and a fixed wood crown, giving it a stately presence. The brass bezel surrounds a metal dial with spade and spear hands, while beveled glass framed in brass completes the look. Wall stabilizers ensure a secure mount, reminding us that this was a clock built not just for beauty, but for reliability.
All original German box clock
The case itself has aged beautifully, with no noticeable scratches or blemishes. The dial, however, tells a different story—its surface bears marks and abrasions, including one between the 6 and 7 where the paint is worn through to bare metal. It is not repairable, but it does speak to the long life and service this clock has seen.
Incorrect use of a cleaning agent
Inside, the movement is a classic rack-and-snail time and strike. The clock chimes on a coiled gong—bold at the half hour, more resonant on the hour, but never harsh. As with most spring-driven movements, one should not expect chronometer precision. Still, this example proves steady and reliable, keeping “regular” time across its full 8-day cycle.
Inlay carvings meets brass strip framing
After a careful cleaning and waxing, the case now shows hints of what it must have looked like when new—over 90 years ago.
2 screws are loosened to remove the movement
Collectors often date U. M. Müller clocks by the lion trademark on the dial. A raised tail indicates pre-1930 manufacture; a lowered tail, as on this example, places it in the mid to late 1930s.
An attractive addition to our kitchen
According to Schmid’s Lexikon, the company’s roots trace back to 1867 in Mühlheim. After passing through several hands—including R. Schnekenburger around 1880 and later Gebrüder Müller—the brand built a legacy of solid, handsome clocks that still charm collectors today.
Servicing this Smiths Enfield clock went without a hitch, well almost.
All parts underwent Ultrasonic cleaning, the pivot holes were pegged and oiled and once re-assembled the clock was oiled, then bench-tested out of it’s case to check for beat and proper strike.
On Sept 30th – back in the case without destroying 2 U-shaped retaining clips. Took it back out as the strike train was not engaging. Oiled one component on the strike train and put back in the case. Tested the strike. Seems to be okay but the minute hand was not preset so it strikes 10 minutes before the hour. Some re-adjusting
Back in it’s case
is required. However the clock is running well so far. Although not in bad shape, there are two pivot holes that are suspect. In two years time I will take a look and see if there is any further wear.
Restoring and repairing antique clocks is a rewarding and sometimes challenging journey, and my latest project has been no exception. I recently acquired a time-and-strike mantel clock from the Enfield Clock Company, a British manufacturer known for its utilitarian designs, especially post-war.
Smiths Enfield time and strike mantel clock
In this article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing the steps I’ve taken so far, the challenges I’ve faced, and what I’ve learned along the way.
The Enfield Clock Co. & Association with Smiths
The Enfield Clock Company’s history is as intriguing as the clocks they produced. Established in 1929, Enfield became known for its mass-produced timepieces, manufactured using modern assembly line techniques inspired by American factory systems.
By the early 1930s, Enfield was manufacturing clock movements that were sold wholesale, eventually leading to the formation of the Smiths Enfield brand after the company was sold to Smiths Industries in 1933. The clocks, particularly those produced in the 1950s, reflected the utilitarian, post-war aesthetic of the time.
Initial Observations
When I first examined the clock, I could tell that it had been worked on by someone with a tinkerer’s touch, rather than a skilled clockmaker. Although its striking mechanism sounded great and the clock was visually appealing, I knew it required a thorough service to restore its functionality.
This clock occasionally stopped for no apparent reason and was difficult to keep in beat, prompting me to learn more about clock repair. The movement was relatively simple, with two trains, so I set out to clean and service it. As I worked through the process, I encountered some challenges, including an unhooked mainspring and worn pivot holes, but I made progress nonetheless. Though I had to delay some repairs due to my limited experience, I gained valuable insights into the inner workings of this timepiece and look forward to continuing the restoration.
Two pivot holes on the back plate were a little worn but not enough to cause any issues at this time. However, since I know very little about bushing work at this point I think it wise to put off repairs until I know how to do the work. A bushing machine is on the horizon but limited funds do not permit me to tackle those more in-depth repairs just yet. Anyway, back to the movement.
Movement showing hammer, and pendulum leader and bob
While reassembling the strike side the mainspring unhooked. I am not sure why. I was prepared to disassemble the movement to reattach the mainspring but a little wiggling corrected the problem. Once the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner and the parts were dried, the movement was assembled and oiled. There are two adjusting two screws on either side of the verge that determine the correct height between the pallets and the escape wheel. Through trial and error, I was able to get a good pendulum swing and a steady beat.
Tricky clip
I decided not to re-attach the 2 clips just yet since it would not take much to break them. Only after the clock has been running reliably and striking correctly will I reattach the clips.
Two ratchets
Not a good design in my view and I wonder if these clocks were ever meant to be worked on after they left the factory.
In the next article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing additional steps I’ve taken so, the challenges I’ve faced with this project, and what I’ve learned along the way.
I acquired my Sessions Raven clock about a year ago. It had been serviced by someone knowledgeable about clocks and arrived in excellent condition. The movement had clearly been disassembled, oiled, tested, and the case carefully reconditioned. Interestingly, it also came with a set of instructions from the person who had worked on it.
Ebony in colour and very attractive Detailed operating instructions
I imagine he wanted to ensure the clock found a good home—and it certainly did! The only drawback was the absence of a label, which is always a consideration when purchasing antique clocks. Otherwise, everything appeared to be in order. According to Tran’s book, the leading authority on American clocks, the Sessions Raven dates to the 1920s. It is a time-and-strike clock, featuring a bell for the half-hour and strike rods on the hour. I suspect it was named the Raven because of its deep ebony color—quite striking, in fact.
Time and strike movement showing the bell
The Sessions Clock Company emerged from the E.N. Welch Clock Company in the early 1900s and was once one of the most recognized American clock manufacturers. However, like many others, it struggled to compete with the rise of electric clocks. Despite its efforts to adapt, the company persisted until the late 1960s before ultimately being forced into liquidation in 1969—a bittersweet end to a once-prominent name in horology.
My clock holds a prominent place in my family room. Its simple design reflects the style of its era and blends seamlessly into any space.
I have dis-assembled this clock twice. After the first dis-assembly I cleaned and oiled it, found everything to be in order but once I assembled it, bench-tested it to find everything seemingly correct and set the beat it would not run more that 5 to 10 minutes at a time. When it stopped it seemed to catch on the escape wheel.
Shown with back plate off
It is now stripped down again. No need to have as through a cleaning as the first go-around but now is the time to investigate other factors. It is a pretty simple clock as the photo shows.
Escape wheel showing worn teeth
What I see right away is the escape wheel teeth and how some are hooked or misshapened. My temptation is to file it down but others are suggesting that I use pliers to press the hooks back into shape. I have’t decided what to do just yet.
Others have suggested that I put more weight on the pendulum which I am reluctant to do since this clock was likely designed to run on a light bob.
The pendulum showing the twist adjustment for speed regulation
Now back to further investigation.
Late note: I finally got this clock to work after taking it apart twice. The second time I concentrated on the pivots discovering the at least 2 had enough rust that them that they may have slowed the clock down. I also took a burr off the escape wheel but in the process damaged the escape wheel a little, so that while the clock runs there is a little clunking sound once with each rotation, but it works and keeps time! Live and learn.
This is a recently acquired Sessions time and strike mission style mantel clock. Aside from cleaning up the case with diluted Murphy’s Soap, my standard cleaner for clock cases, I applied clock oil to the movement and reset the verge in order to get the proper beat. It is running well and keeps very good time. There is a speed adjuster at the 12 o’clock position which is helpful in regulating the speed.
Sessions time and strike movement
There are some issues, the glass clips are broken and the glass is loose in it’s bezel but putty will fix that. It came without a double-sided key but I have enough spares that I have one that fits and the clock needs a thorough cleaning.
Before bezel is cleaned
After it is running for a week or so, I will tear it down and address any bushing issues.
This article describes my latest mantel clock find, an American tambour style time, strike and chime clock that has some very interesting features.
Weak clicks, a common Sessions problem
It is a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock made in Forestville Conn. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from Advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or regulator clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Some of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors.
Inlay adds to the charm of this clock
This case is 21 inches long and 10 inches high, has a mahogany finish with a faux wood inlay and raised metal gold-coloured numerals. It has an 8-day Westminster quarter-hour chime movement. The strike and the chime are on the same train. This clock has 2 gear trains to perform what is usually done with three gear trains in most clocks. Rare but not unique.
Although made in the 1920’s, Sessions had to compete with every other American clock company as chime clocks became very popular. Movements with 3 gear trains were the norm; three arbours, one for each train. Sessions chose a radical approach, and designed the two-train Westminster movement with only two mainsprings. Economies of scale meant that the dial fit other time & strike mantel clocks as well.
Drum and pin chime arrangement
This particular clock was sold in 1931, an inscription testifies to the date. The sale price in 1931 was $29.95, a working man’s salary in the 1930’s. This is a $20 flea market find.
The time side runs well but the chime and strike side is not working. It has either a broken or a disconnected mainspring or perhaps some other major issue is lurking within.
This clock has a reputation for being difficult to work on. Some horologists will not touch it because of its quirkiness and the amount of time it takes to repair but I plan to give it a shot, not now but once I gain moire experience in clock repair.
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Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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