Scottish tall case clock – who was Wm. McLachlan of Newton Stewart?

Since winning this tall-case clock at auction in the spring of 2020 I have been intrigued about its origin. The information provided at the time was that it was made in Scotland or England in or around the mid-1800s but it could not have been made after 1852 as I will explain later.

Its features suggest the mid-1800s although there is nothing on the clock that tells me anything about the exact year it was made.

It is a classic Scottish design from the era. It is fairly nondescript and lacks the fine craftsmanship of other tall-case clocks of the period but it has attractive lines.

It has an English rack and snail bell strike movement. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24. The weights are 10 and 11 pounds as one would expect.

To appreciate the size of the clock at almost 90 inches, it just about reaches our 8-foot ceiling.

The day it was brought home

On the dial is the name Wm McLachlan, and the town, Newton Stewart. William (Wm) McLachlan is a clockmaker. In his book, Clockmakers & Watchmakers of Scotland 1453 to 1900 David Whyte lists McLachlan, William, clock & watchmaker in Newton-Stewart, Wigtownshire as a business advertised for sale on 25 May 1852, with no reason why it was offered for sale and nothing more about his life.

Newton-Stewart is a former town in the historic county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland.

Perhaps rather than a clockmaker per se, McLachlan was an assembler/retailer and sourced cases, dials, and movements for his customers according to their wishes. Rather than build a clock from the ground up in his own shop, it was more cost-effective, even in the mid-1800s, to locate parts from various sources.

For example, the dial, hands, and movement were made in Birmingham, England and the case was very likely locally made by a joiner or wood craftsman. It is also quite possible that the painted dial originated in Birmingham as Birmingham was well-known at the time for its dial painters.

The clockmaker then assembled the parts, completed the final finishing, added finials, lock and knobs, weights, and pendulum, fine-tuned the movement, and placed his name and the location of the town on the dial.

What does the shepherd and sheep theme on the dial mean? The clock was presumably made for a well-to-do Scottish sheep farmer. I can only imagine the magnificent striking sound of this clock in a farmers’ home during the 1850s or so and the stories it could tell.

The tombstone of William McLachlan, (appears to be a more modern one erected by family?)

More about McLachlan

William McLachlan was born in 1799 in Penninghame, Wigtownshire, Scotland, and presumably operated a clockmaking business or clock shop in Newton Stewart in his thirties and forties, and finally while in his early fifties sold his business in 1852.

I had assumed that he either retired in the Newton Stewart area or passed away prior to the sale date but I have recently discovered that he emigrated to the USA prior to 1861. His tombstone is located in Jersey City, New Jersey, USA. He was 77 when he passed away on December 8th, 1876 and his wife Mary Crichton died in 1891 at age 84.

Scottish tall case clock
Scottish tall case clock restored and on display in my home

McLachlan’s wife was 7 years younger so let us assume they married when he was in his late twenties and she in her late teens or early twenties. Could he have been operating a business at that time? Did they have children? If so, why was the business not carried on by a son? And why the newer tombstone? Family, sons, daughters?

According to Scottish birth records McLachlan was living in Penninghame, Scotland in 1841. A William McLachlan from the same area is listed in the 1851 census but at 57 years old (an error perhaps?) and I cannot find a William McLachlan (who would have been 62) in the 1861 Scottish census. Did he and his wife leave for the USA sometime during the 10-year period between 1851 and 1861?

Whether he carried on clockmaking in the USA after his arrival is a mystery. If he did, there may be American sources I can explore further.

Many tall case clocks came over the ocean from Scotland and England but how this particular clock made its way to Canada is also a mystery.

Free records databases have their limitations and I am not willing to pay for a subscription for what might lead to a dead end but I will continue to do a little more digging and we’ll see what I can unearth.

Best clock acquisition of 2022

Well, it’s that time of the year. What is my best clock acquisition of the past year? You can decide for yourself and leave a comment but I will reveal my favorite at the end of the post.

As a clock hobbyist, I have had little difficulty locating interesting clocks and every year I have managed to find a winner or two. 2022 was no exception.

In the early days of collecting, time and strike vintage mantel clocks were my principal focus with the goal of taking them apart and making them work, an important part of my learning. Many of those clocks have been either sold or gifted. I have shifted my focus toward collecting interesting clocks, rare clocks, clocks that have a special provenance, and growing my collection of Canadian-made clocks.

My wife is my best clock finder. Our discussions may go something like this; “did you see that wall clock on Facebook/xxx auction house?”. “Let me see. Yeah, it looks good, what do you think? Make an offer?” and off we go. Sometimes I will accept the offer from the seller without negotiating because it is a fair price but there are times when a little wheeling and dealing takes place prior to the sale.

In no particular order, here are my finds for 2022.

Fusee gallery clock

Gallery or dial clock, unknown maker

The clock is also called a dial clock in England which is where it was made. There are no markings anywhere on the clock save an obscure trademark that I have been unable to identify. It is a time-only fusee clock with a 12-inch dial, a very common size. It might have had a chain drive at the beginning of its life but it now has a cable. I have not serviced this clock because I don’t know enough about fusee movements, particularly the method of preloading the powerful mainspring.

E N Welch marine clock

Marine clock by E N Welch

This 30-hour spring wound clock with a hairspring lever escapement simply tells the time. It was made in the 1870s and perhaps earlier. It has been serviced, bushed, and cleaned, but my challenge at the moment is setting up the hairspping. It will work but not well.

Hamilton clock co ogee

Hamilton time and strike ogee clock, Canadian made

Acquired in the spring of 2022 this ogee clock was made in Hamilton, Ontario (Canada). The movement was serviced but the case challenged my veneering skills. It looks quite presentable now but was in poor condition when I bought it.

Jerome and Co. Rose Cottage clock

Rose Cottage clock by Jerome & Co.

Quite honestly I was going to throw the case out after having serviced the movement. It simply looks too far gone. However, I have accepted the challenge of bringing back this clock to its former glory. So far it is a work in progress.

Jauch calendar clock

Jauch 8-day calendar clock

From a distance, this clock looks good but a closer examination reveals a cheaply made time-only movement and an equally inexpensive pine case. It is clear that this German company was attempting to cash in on the antique American schoolhouse clock that was popular in the 1970s.

Wag on the wall

Wag on a wall

This has a well-made German movement, possibly by Mauthe or Hermle. It is a time-and-strike weight-driven clock and keeps very good time. Its only negative is that it has a cheap 1960s look about it but the only thing missing is a bottom middle finial.

Sessions Grand Assortment

Grand Assortment by Sessions

Perhaps the ugliest gingerbread clock ever made. The photo is the exact clock I worked on two years ago since the clock is apart at the moment and I have stripped down the case (a last resort).

Sessions Mission clock

Sessions Mission clock, 8-day time and strike

I like this clock not only because it is a 10$ thrift store find but it has very nicely styled mission clock and it works very well, keeping decent time for a spring-driven clock.

Empire gallery clock

English gallery clock with 10-inch dial

I was hoping this was a fusee clock when I bid on it on an online auction in the spring of 2022 but it is a spring-driven 8-day clock with a fairly robust movement that was intended for commercial use, a store, an office environment perhaps.

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

Daniel Pratt Jr woodworks clock

I have a couple of Danel Pratt woodworks clock. Unfortunately, this one is missing its topper. Servicing woodworks movements takes special care and attention and I may tackle this clock in the spring.

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

Ansonia 30-hour parlour clock

I seem to gravitate toward 30-hour clocks. This is a time-and-strike clock and is in decent condition requiring only a few touchups.

My favorite?

Well, it has to be the time-only fusee which is probably why I subconsciously placed it first on the list. It well built industrial-strength clock that was designed to last for years. It looks great on any wall, is very quiet, and quite accurate which is what fusee movements are known for.

Jerome cottage clock – progress so far

It is always challenging to find time to work on projects when life is busy. I picked up some part-time work this winter, teaching at a community college so between that my clock hobby teaching has taken precedence, for now.

Since the post on extreme restoration a week or so ago, I have continued planning the work to be done and have actually managed to address two issues, the second one only partially.

For my first thoughts on this Jerome Rose Cottage 30-hour clock, see the post below. I am sure you will agree that this is a candidate for extreme measures.

Posted Jan 31, 2023

The case has been cleaned of dirt and grime and I have removed some of the ragged pieces of veneer on the right side. The plan is to cover the exposed sections with new veneer but since the trim is curved I will have to work out some way to apply the veneer to the curved surface and clamp using some sort of curved block. I considered an old section of ogee molding but no, not the right shape.

The movement had been serviced in the spring of 2022 and is running perfectly.

One solid wheel on this tiny movement

Painting the door trim

In my collection of acrylic paints, I found antique gold which I believe is very close to the original trim framing the front access door.

Dark chocolate brown paint was used to cover the area between the glass and the gold trim and since it was a flat texture I applied a coat of shellac to give it a satin sheen.

The design of the small glass tablet will be a challenge to duplicate and I continue my search online for a cottage clock with the same design that I can pattern off, otherwise, I will have to improvise.

Before and after

Addressing the dial

The dial has been thoroughly cleaned but some of the dirt is embedded in the dial surface which is not an issue since I would like to retain some of the patina.

I haven’t quite found the exact paint match at this point, but I am not too concerned as building up layers is the first step in in-painting. With some experimentation I should arrive very close to what I am looking for. The real fun will be in-painting the Roman numerals and chapter ring.

In-painting the dial

Next steps

Next will be the veneer work but as mentioned clamping the veneer will be a minor challenge. I am sure I will find a way. The veneer looks like Rosewood and I have a small quantity on hand.

After the veneer work is completed the tablet will be addressed and that will unfortunately involve cutting or peeling the label on the inside, though I will preserve it as best I can.

Finally when all is done a coat or two of traditional shellac should make this clock very presentable.

This small clock has certainly been to hell and back but I do know one thing; whatever I do will be a vast improvement.

Look for more posts to come on this nice little cottage clock.

Welch Marine clock – let’s call it a work in progress

Last week (January 20, 2023) I wrote about a wonderful little marine clock that I have just not had the time to service completely. A few weeks ago I cleaned the movement and polished the pivots and left it. All that was left was the bushing work. I spent a few hours on it today and it was worn as expected. Eight bushings for a time-only movement is a lot.

It is a 30-hour brass movement made by E.N. Welch in the 1860s. It has a balance wheel or hairspring lever escapement to use a more exact term. The movement is accessed by removing the dial and bezel (4 screws) and releasing 4 screws that hold the movement to the backboard.

Time only with balance wheel escapement, prior to cleaning

A balance wheel escapement should be no surprise to anyone who knows the purpose of this clock. It is a marine clock, designed to be used on ships and trains, not a ship’s bell or watchkeeper’s clock but a marine clock that simply tells the time.

I suspected part of the reason the clock was so slow was a combination of factors, a kink in the hairspring, the general wear of the movement plus all the dirt and grime that had accumulated over the years.

The arrow shows a little bit of kink after my best attempt to straighten it

I separated the plates to discover that the movement had been worked on previously. Sometimes the work is done well and other times questionable shortcuts are taken. In this case, a glued regulating cup screw and punch marks around some of the pivot holes. You play the cards you’re dealt.

A screw is glued, stripped no doubt

It is a pretty simple clock with not many parts.

The arbour with the lantern pinion in the middle is the “seconds” bit, before cleaning

As mentioned, the balance wheel adjustment cup screw in the rear is glued in place and there is only one reason for it, it is stripped. I am going to leave it as is as there remains a front adjustment screw on the front of the movement which also has the speed regulator wire.

Next, I am preparing for the first bushing by centering the bushing hole. You will notice that I am bushing from the outside of the place. The center wheel did no allow enough space to work from the inside of the plate.

Centering the hole on a Bergeon bushing machine

And on to the bushing work.

Using a reamer on a pivot hole

The only tricky bushing was the mainspring arbour which required a 5.5mm bushing, otherwise, the bushing work went smoothly

Mainspring and new arbour bushing

There was more bushing work than I realized. Yes, it was quite worn but I have seen worse.

Cleaned and in place, the lantern pinions and pivots were in excellent condition

The movement is a little tricky to put back together because of the small plates and how the wheels are close together but it went back together without much of a fuss.

Now for the fun part and that is remounting the balance wheel. I am not a fan of balance wheel escapements. If you have worked on old alarm clocks you know what I am talking about, getting the clock in beat. The problem I am having is lining up the impulse spring with the fork. Every time I try the spring is twisted.

Does the clock work? Yes but not well. It’s well out of beat and I suspect there is not enough impulse from the hairspring. This will take a little more time to figure out but I am not in the testing phase as yet.

Let’s call this a work in progress.

After veneer repairs, the Hamilton ogee case is finished

Just before Christmas 2022, I published an article on a Hamilton Clock Co. 30-hour ogee that I won at auction earlier in 2022. I had been delaying repairs on the case for months and finally found the time to tackle the veneer work.

I seem to be strangely attracted to ogee clocks, this is my fifth acquisition over the past 6 years and I think that’s it, no more except for that seemingly rare-ish eight-day version from any American maker.

The Hamilton Clock Co is in no way associated with any American company or companies and is a wholly home-grown Canadian Company that made clocks in the late 1880s. in Hamilton, Canada that were styled after American ogee clocks of the time.

December 2022 article

The clock was complete with weights, pendulum bob, original hands, dial, and even the top dust caps which are often missing from these old clocks. The movement was in good shape and other than installing 5 new bushings to address enlarged pivot holes there was no significant wear. The cables were replaced with braided nylon and the pendulum suspension spring/leader was also replaced.

The case needed veneer remediation, particularly the top corners. The entire side trim piece required a considerable amount of work and the bottom veneer strip was missing altogether.

The next photos showed how hopeless the top right and bottom sections appeared when I first received the clock and had a good look.

Poor veneer repairs
The bottom piece missing altogether

Some might argue that the case should be left as-is since the repairs however poorly are part of the history of the clock. This is the never-ending conservation/restoration argument that arises. Preserving some clocks as they are is certainly important but this was not an expensive clock and in this situation, I take the view that a repair will not only improve the appearance of the clock but enhance its desirability if completed correctly.

Step 1 – cleaning

The case is solid and no structural repairs are required.

My go-to cleaner is Murphy’s Soap which I cut half and half with water. I begin by cleaning the case which unfortunately means removing some of the shellac. This is unavoidable but there is enough shellac remaining that the case would not be stripped in the true sense of the word. I removed the right side trim completely to work on it separately. The plan was to glue it and the bottom trim piece back on when I was finished with the veneer repair.

Step II – veneer work

I usually keep a supply of veneer harvested from old clocks. I am not the best judge at identifying wood types and find myself confusing Rosewood with mahogany at times but I make a comparison based on what I have and what seems to look the best by comparing colouring and grain and for the most part, it looks acceptable when the job is completed.

I have also learned recently that makers will occasionally use different types of wood veneer on the case surfaces at the time of manufacture and simply dye/tint them to match. In fact, while cleaning the dust caps a bit of colouring transferred to the rag and it looked very much like ocher.

Hide glue on a heating pad to maintain the temperature

Medium-strength hide glue is mixed prior to the project. The working temperature is about 160-170 degrees Fahrenheit.

Marking the piece to cut

Painter’s tape is used to ensure that the ends are not damaged during the cutting of the veneer.

Cutting the veneer

An artist’s or carpenter’s blade is used. Ensure it is good and sharp, you don’t want the blade pulling on the veneer as you cut.

Gluing the veneer to the trim piece

Depending on the bonding strength of the hide glue you have a limited amount of time to secure the veneer in place.

Clamping the veneer to the trim strip

Have plenty of clamps large and small on hand.

Attaching the veneer strip to the case

Once the veneer is attached to the trim piece and allowed to dry for 24 hours it is time for gluing and clamping the right and bottom border strips to the case.

Step III- – the shellac finish

Once the case has dried for 24 hours the shellacking can begin. I use an artist’s brush for the application of shellac using long and even strokes. For larger areas, one might opt for a French polish technique which is essentially a piece of cloth shaped into a ball and wrapped into another piece of cloth and dipped into the shellac. The main idea is to dip and apply the shellac using smooth even strokes.

I generally apply 2-3 coats of shellac, and between coats smooth the surface with 4-zero steel wool.

Final thoughts

I am certainly not the foremost expert in veneer repair but along the way, I have mastered the fundamentals. Each project offers its unique challenges and this one was no exception.

I was somewhat surprised that after cleaning the left and right trim pieces and shellacking both that the right side and bottom trim piece were somewhat lighter than the left side. However, the new pieces added to the right trim section matched quite nicely. This shows up more dramatically in a photograph. But I think the lighting had a lot to do with the contrast. The light and shadows of the clock combined with the sun coming in from the right side of the clock seem to make the difference more pronounced.

The final result

It is also possible that the right side was tinted to match at one time and cleaning removed the tint. Comparing it to other ogee clocks in my collection for some there is a slight variation from side to side and top to bottom but not as striking as on this clock case.

Light source from the left, the contrast is not as striking

At the end of the day, I am pleased with the final result. I would imagine that in time the new or lighter sections of the case will darken somewhat.

I can now add it to other Canadian clocks in my collection.

From chaos to order – reorganizing my clock office

My wife calls it the clock office. It is, after all where I work on my clocks and where some are on display. It is also where I compose articles for this blog.

However, it has been getting very cluttered, and I am tired of how disorganized it looks.

We have 4 bedrooms in our 2-story home and my office is in the smallest one. It is also the one I prefer because of the afternoon sun and it is probably the brightest room in the house with two large windows facing west.

My office November 2018

In 2018 the office was manageable but as anyone who collects things or has a hobby, space runs out very quickly.

December 2022, getting very busy

By December 2022 the office was getting very crowded and it was at that point that I decided a major change was necessary. I was also getting tired of looking for places to put things and losing things amid piles of stuff.

The small desk and hutch had to go. It is a real junk collector but more importantly, the hutch area limits the size of computer monitors I can use and I always work with two monitors. The computer desk and hutch will now go to the curb. The computer desk will remain in the same location, however. A new computer desk with a more open design and a back upper shelf for the monitors is replacing it.

Corner bookcase with spring winder and Bergeon bushing machine

I have been making small changes in the last 4 years but this will be the biggest redo ever. In 2018 I built a shelf for my ogee clocks putting them up on display where they belonged instead of on the floor.

From the left are clocks made by Waterbury, George Clark, and two Chauncey Jeromes

In early January 2023, I added a shelf on the south wall for my Canadian Clocks, the same width, and height.

From the left are clocks made by the Hamilton Clock Co, an Arthur Pequegnat Canuk, two Arthur Pequegant Maple Leafs, and a steeple clock made by the Hamilton Clock Co.
Both shelves

The new computer desk may look smaller but it is in fact one foot wider and made with tubular steel and the finest Chinese pressed wood and veneer that money can buy. It also allows for the scanner (not yet placed in the photo) to be located on a lower shelf. The wires in the back are a bit of an eyesore at the moment but a little cable management will fix it.

The bookcase has been moved to a closet that has had the door removed. With the bookcase out of the way, it frees up space for the lathe.

The basement has a work area where clock case repairs, restoration, painting, veneer work, and so on are done. A year ago I moved my Taig metal lathe to the basement but with the reorganization of my office bringing it back up will eliminate frequent trips up and down stairs.

Basement shop

So, that’s it for now. It’s not finished yet, call it a work in progress. When everything is where I want it to be and I am happy with the reconfiguration I will update with a few photos.

Seth Thomas round top shelf clock – simplicity is its strongest suit

Ah, the days when clock companies put a little time and effort into their designs. The Seth Thomas company, in its heyday, produced many attractive clocks and this eight-day shelf clock is one of the finest examples of the 1870s.

Seth Thomas round top
Seth Thomas round top

It is a rather large round top shelf clock measuring 15 inches in height, 10 inches wide at the base, and 4 inches deep. The attractive Rosewood veneered case has a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. I have seen some with clear glass but I believe the original design called for mirrored glass.

The grain is bold and striking. A sliver of veneer between the 9 and 12 o’clock position of the bezel which was missing when I bought the clock in 2019 has been repaired.

Veneer missing – before the repair

And after the veneer repair.

After veneer repair

Unique stylized hands with “S” on the minute hand and “T” on the hour hand give the clock the look of distinction.

A characteristic feature of the clock is a very attractive lyre 8-day Plymouth time and strike spring-driven movement on a bell gong with alarm. It looks like it is literally stuffed into the case but once the wood dial mount is removed it reveals just enough operating space for this movement which was obviously designed to be placed in a large variety of clock cases.

Side view of the case
Top view

The movement is die stamped “S. Thomas, Plymouth Conn.”. It is fitted with Geneva stops (stop-works) to improve timekeeping. It is nice to see stop works on clocks since they are often missing.

The plates are held together with taper pins rather than screws. The alarm mechanism is located just below the movement and to the left with the alarm adjustment wheel on the center cannon as was common in those days. Both the alarm and the movement strike an iron bell gong. The movement is mounted on the back of the case by means of wooden blocks top and bottom.

Back panel

To remove the movement from its case the rear panel must be unscrewed.

A good label is affixed inside the case and at the top, ”Spring Brass Eight Day Clocks”, “Made and Sold by Seth Thomas, Thomaston, Connecticut”. The label is largely intact save for a small piece missing in the lower right corner and slight water staining on the bottom quarter.

Without a doubt, this is one of the most beautiful clocks in my collection.

Stripping a clock case is a travesty, or is it?

I have saved a few clocks that were one step closer to a garbage bin by taking an aggressive approach to clock case restoration. Is stripping a clock case a travesty?

Firstly, I am not a huge fan of gingerbread clocks which were very popular in America at the turn of the 20th century. Every major manufacturer made them and they sold like hotcakes. Thousands have survived and a quick perusal of online auction sites any day of the week will reveal dozens if not hundreds of them.

The designs were created by using high-pressure rotary presses on oak wood that had been pre-steamed to soften it.

Auction photo

Gingerbread clocks are quite large for a shelf clock and generally unattractive, in my opinion. The only other gingerbread I have, besides the Sessions clock which is the subject of this article, is an Arthur Pequegnat Canuk 8-day time and strike added to my collection in 2019. The Canuk is nicely balanced, well-proportioned, and mildly attractive for a gingerbread clock.

The Sessions Grand Assortment #1, is the ugly duckling of the clock world.

Arthur Pequegnat Canuk

The design of the top is not consistent with the side rails and the base. The crown looks overbearing. It is not very well-balanced and out of proportion but it was the style of the time and thousands upon thousands were sold.

This clock was acquired as part of an auction lot and was relatively inexpensive. I plan to revitalize the case and service the movement but I am not sure at this point whether or not it is worth keeping.

What to do with the case? Here are two shots of the case, the base, and the crown.

Base section

The mottling is what some call alligorating. Over time heat, moisture (stored in an attic or garage), dust, and dirt cause the shellac to coagulate into lumps or globules similar to the skin of an alligator. It is not fun to remove and drastic measures are required to put right.

Crown section

In the past when met with a similar situation I have tried a number of approaches; lacquer thinner, sanding, alcohol, a mixture of cleaners, and so on but the only way to get rid of it entirely is to strip the case. Does stripping diminish the value of a clock? Perhaps, but if done correctly it might even enhance its desirability.

Grand Assortment

The photo above shows a Grand Assortment I worked on in 2019. Obviously, someone added the colouring to the tablet making it somewhat worse rather than better. I cleaned the case of dirt and grime but left the finish as-is. This one has darkened with age but it looks acceptable.

For my Grand Assortment, the only thing that remains is a very aggressive approach. So, off to the shop it goes.

Hmm, is it a Grand Assortment #1 or #1 in an Assortment of Grand clocks?

The year in review – antiquevintageclock.com

Thank you, subscribers and viewers. Whether you are a regular visitor, drop by occasionally, or are visiting for the first time, thank you.

This has been the most exciting year yet for antiquevintageclock.com. The blog has done very well and naturally, it is always a thrill to reach the milestone of the most views in the seven years I have had this blog.

Photo by Gratisography on Pexels.com

It has taken time to build a following, more time than I’ve ever imagined. It takes planning, research, and an investment of energy but most importantly a strong commitment to producing quality articles on a twice-weekly basis.

My first blog article, May 2015

After seven years I still consider myself a clock generalist though I feel I have become an expert in some areas. Judging from the email I received from you I appeal to a like-minded group who have either stumbled onto my site looking for advice and direction on a particular clock repair issue or are regular visitors who appreciate the content and express their thanks accordingly.

Photo by Tima Miroshnichenko on Pexels.com

As I look over the articles that have the most views this year it is clear that most of my viewers from around the world are looking for direction with how-to and general-interest articles topping the list.

American New Haven clock movement

The statistics this year speak for themselves with over 190,000 views, and 101,000 visitors from 161 countries. Over the past seven years, there have been over 525,000 views.

The number of views also supports my blog by providing advertising revenue which pays for blog server space, domain registration, email service, cloud storage, clock supplies, and membership dues for NAWCC.

The most popular articles are:

This year I have introduced a new email address to reduce the number of emails that go astray in my personal email account. The new address is ronjoiner@antiquevintageclock.com. Please continue to write to me with your clock issues and with general comments relating to my blog articles.

Again thanks and if you are here for the first time, welcome to articles concerning clock restoration and repair and articles about antique and vintage clocks in general and if you are a frequent flyer, thanks for supporting me all these years.

30-hour Welch Marine clock loses 10 minutes per hour

Ten minutes per hour! That is slow. American-made spring driven clocks are poor timekeepers and if yours loses or gains a minute or two a week that is just about the best you can expect.

After having worked on the case a few months ago it is past time to work on the movement.

The clock was in running condition when I acquired it though it did manage to run its rated 30-hour cycle.

Welch Marine clock 30-hour time-only wall clock

Something is definitely amiss. Wear, a good cleaning or something more serious. Read on and we’ll find out what is slowing this clock down.

A Ship’s Bell clock is a type of marine clock but in clock circles, there is a distinct difference between it and the clock you see here.

Marine clocks either tell the time or strike the hours like a normal domestic clock and because they have a balance wheel escapement they can be placed on a moving object such as a train or a boat whereas Ship’s Bell clocks originated in sailing ship days when the crew of a vessel was divided into Port and Starboard Watches, each on duty for four hours, then off for four hours.

An assortment of Marine and Ship’s Bell clocks at the National Association of Watch & Clock Collector museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania

One stroke of the ship’s bell indicates the first half hour of the watch. Then an additional bell is struck for each succeeding half hour for a total of 8 bells.

As seen when acquired

Based on a quick inspection I see nothing amiss other than a crimped hairspring on the balance escapement. I wonder if that might be the issue?

The movement is accessed by removing the hands and dial

Now, let’s take this apart and see what we have. Look for a future article as I detail the servicing of the movement.

Happy New Year to clock lovers everywhere

Ringing in the New Year is for reminiscing, reliving, looking back, and looking forward.

We got through 2022 and managed but for many of us, the pandemic has left lasting memories.

Promises were made and broken, plans were made and altered, and hopes and dreams were reshaped.

The antiquevintageclock.com family wishes everyone a Happy New Year.

Now, let’s begin the New Year in style.

As champagne corks pop, glasses are raised and fireworks explode into the sky, it is important to recognize the special symbolism this holiday brings with it.

Amid promises of new beginnings and fresh starts comes a time of reflection and resolutions that more often than not tend to be short-lived. Make an exception this year and make your resolutions last.

Let’s make 2023 the best year yet.

Merry Christmas to clock lovers everywhere

The last three years of uncertainty have taught us to be very thankful for family, friends, and relationships. We are back to some semblance of normality this year although the flu season is certainly upon us.

Wishing you all health and happiness during the Christmas season.

My kids stress every year over what to get dad for Christmas. They know that I am an avid antique clock collector and spend my time restoring and repairing antique and vintage clocks. “Is there anything he needs?”.

Holiday in Lego Land

However, it is the little things I appreciate in my Christmas stocking. Kids, if you want to give me something put a new pair of cloth gloves, a box of toothpicks, cotton swabs, or a paintbrush in my Christmas stocking so I know that you are thinking of me.

Christmas is a time of joy, not of giving, unless the giving is in the form of love and appreciation for friends, family, and colleagues.

So, if you are looking for that special gift for the clock lover in your family remember the simple things.

Christmas at home

May this wonderful time of the year touch your heart and the hearts of your loved ones in a special way.

If there is a clock under the tree consider it a timely gift to remind you of days gone by and of happy memories when families got together to celebrate love, and togetherness, to enjoy a feast to remember.

Thank you for all your letters and I hope you understand that at this time it may take a little longer to reply to you.

Hamilton Clock Co. ogee – a dull and tired case needs help

Should antique clock cases be refinished or rejuvenated? It can be a judgement call. I am all for patina and preserving an old clock case but there are times when certain amount of intervention is practical from an aesthetics and resale point of view.

There is a certain philosophical argument among collectors who believe on the one hand that any intervention is sacrilegious while others feel that some amount of intervention may be necessary to preserve an antique clock.

Auction photo

I won this Hamilton Clock Company 30-hour ogee clock at auction in the spring of 2022 and only now have had a chance to work on it.

I was not specifically looking for a 30-hour ogee as I have 6 already (and who needs another 30-hour clock) but as this clock was made in Hamilton Ontario, Canada it is special to me as adding Canadian clocks is a prime goal as a collector.

Auction photo showing the lower acid etched tablet

A brief history

The company was established in 1876, after the failure of the Canada Clock Company (version 1) in Whitby, Ontario. Using a new factory building and the original production machinery the second company, the Hamilton Clock Co. was formed by three principles, James Simpson, George Lee, and J. F. Collins.

The Hamilton Clock Company made a valiant effort to provide clocks for the Canadian market, in competition with the huge U.S. clock factories in Connecticut that already dominated the market. 

Ogee clocks were manufactured at Hamilton, and these were identical in construction to those that had been made at Whitby with veneered pine cases. After four years the company went bankrupt but was shortly resurrected as the Canada Clock Company (version 2), again using the same Hamilton production facilities. Clock production ended in the mid-1880s and it was not until a new Canadian-owned clock company emerged in 1904 (the Pequegnat Clock Co.) in Berlin, Ontario that Canadian-made clocks resumed production.

It is tempting to group the three companies into one, but the design focus of each company separated them from each other, the early company focused on 30-hour movements and simply styled mantel clocks while 8-day wall clocks and more ornate mantel clocks were a feature of the later company.

The case

Yes, it is dulled and tired and it has had a rough life. These clocks are handed down from one owner to the next and in the process they undergo changes. Some of the changes are reversible and some are not. Luckily this clock can be revived and brought back to life.

There are veneer losses, particularly on the two upper corners and the trim strip along the right side. The bottom strip is missing completely. So the challenge is to replace missing veneer with new and old stock but the end result is not always perfect.

Let’s see what I can do with the case.

A very special Waterbury wall clock – my grandfather’s kitchen clock (a personal journey)

The Waterbury clock hanging in my office brings back memories of my grandfather, a man I wish I had known better. Call it one of life’s regrets.

Now, I didn’t know my grandfather all that well and I’m not sure that many people did. He was shy and a man of few words. I don’t think many people really knew him. In fact, I don’t recall having a meaningful conversation with him.

Rank listed as driver although he was a private in the First World War

He passed in 1962 at age 82 when I was only 12.

My grandfather and his brother came to Canada in 1906. There were many British immigrants at the time as Canada offered new and exciting opportunities for young men. Grandfather came from Shoreham, England where most of his family originated, and was employed with the Postal Service but evidently, postal work was not for him and an adventure to the colonies was a better option.

When he arrived in Canada, he chose Ottawa as a place to live. At the time his future wife lived with her parents. Her mother operated a boarding house where grandfather stayed when he first arrived in Ottawa. You might say that my great-grandmother was a matchmaker of sorts, as she encouraged my grandfather and grandmother to spend time together. She must have thought that since he came from the old country he was quite a catch.

My grandfather spoke only English, and his bride spoke only French. So, how they communicated throughout their engagement and the first few married years is a mystery to this day. Perhaps words are not important after all!

When the First World War broke out in 1914 my grandfather did not sign up immediately but waited until 1916 at which time both grandfather and his brother made the decision to join the war effort. Grandfather was not particularly patriotic, and the purpose of joining was to take advantage of an all-expenses paid trip to Europe and more specifically England where he could reconnect with his family in the Shoreham area. At that point, he had been away from his home country for 10 years.

Imagine my disappointment when I saw this

Neither he nor his brother had any idea that the war would go on for two more years. In fact, they thought, and a lot of people shared the same feeling, that the war would end by Christmas, and they would be home in two or three months. Little did they realize how much longer the war would last and the impact the war would have on two young men.

Waterbury grandfather's clock
The movement had been neglected for many years

My grandfather was a military driver during the First World War and was in Europe between 1916 and 1918. He witnessed horrific things and retained many of those memories. Today people would use the term Post Traumatic Stress Disorder but, in those days they called it “shell shock”. Post Traumatic Stress Disorder would stay with him throughout his entire life.

My grandparent’s home was very quiet but for the sound of the Waterbury time and strike wall clock. Grandfather suffered from anxiety/depression and it didn’t take much to bother him, most likely due to his experiences in the First World War.

The brass bezel was in poor shape and screwed to the case?

After the war grandfather worked for the Ottawa Transportation Commission for a number of years. He was a conductor on a streetcar and when the OTC switched from streetcars to buses, they eliminated the conductor position. Grandfather was told that he had to drive a bus and since he was unable to drive for anxiety reasons that stemmed from his experiences in the Great War, he left work at the age of 50 and never worked again. But he and my grandmother managed with the help of family.

Touch-ups were required and dirt was removed from the brass

My grandfather painted that old Waterbury clock case the color yellow to match the walls in the kitchen. I guess he thought it would blend in with the surroundings and the ticking of the clock would somehow subside into the walls. When they sold their home in Ottawa the clock was passed on to one of my cousins.

Waterbury grandfather's clock
The clock case had no drop door so, a new one had to be made

The clock was tucked in an old barn for many years and when my cousin downsized and moved into a smaller home he wondered if I would have it. In 2018 he contacted me by email and suggested I retrieve the clock. At the time I imagined it was a complete clock with movement, case, and all the important bits but when I picked it up I was disappointed that it had suffered so much through the years.

Waterbury grandfather's clock
Cleaned and ready for the next 100 years

I wish I knew what the clock looked like in its day because what I have left is not the clock I envisioned on my grandfather’s kitchen wall many years ago. I have the movement, dial face, and brass bezel. The case and a few other important parts are long gone. The case my cousin made some 40 or 50 years ago is a heavy homemade plywood concoction. He did the best he could but it was clear that he had little understanding of clock case construction and he got a few things wrong.

However, I was determined to do something with it. It now has new dial glass, a pendulum rod and bob, a verge and crutch, a winding key, and a new drop door. I cleaned up the dial as best I could, refreshed the case, and addressed wear issues on the movement.

Grandfather’s clock, plywood case and all

That old kitchen clock is in my office right beside my desk and ticking away and striking as it should. Although I remember it ticking loudly as a child in the back kitchen the truth of the matter is that it is not a loud ticker at all; it is very soothing.

I contemplated ditching the crudely constructed case and finding a period correct one but the clock with all its warts is what it is. The plywood case, as ugly as it is, is part of the history of the clock. So it will stay as it is and it will always be a reminder of a man I wish I had known.

Beyond the basics – more advanced tools for clock repair

See this article for basic tools for clock repair

Let’s assume you have decided to take the plunge and you are at the beginning stages of building an essential tools list for clock repair. Let me help you with your journey.

In the fall of 2022, I wrote about the five essential tools for clock repair. The sidebar will bring you to that article. Tools for clock repair need not break the bank, in fact, you can begin for less than a $100 investment.

The five basic tool groups included the screwdriver, the letdown tool, the pivot locator, the box wrench, and the pliers. If you are ready to move forward with more challenging repairs here are the next set of tools you will require. Assuming you have already purchased the basic tools the 16 additional tools you will require are relatively inexpensive and are the prelude to making your first big jump to specialized and advanced tools.

This time our budget is less than $400 (all prices quoted in US funds).

Let’s begin.

Optivisor or eye loupe

The closer you can see the better. I prefer opti-type visors. I cannot get used to an eye loupe but it is certainly cheaper.

Opti-type visors are more expensive but hinged so that they can be pushed upward and out of the way. I have had a couple of visors in the past but the set I use now is the Magnivisor pro series from Carson which is about $60. The little light at the top goes through batteries fast and sometimes I forget to turn it off, so I don’t use it but you might find it helpful for those dark spaces.

$10 will get you a set of three eye loupes on Amazon.

Magnivisor by Carson

Movement test stand

A test stand is very helpful when disassembling a movement reassembling it and testing it before it is reinstalled in the case.

I have several types for different purposes but I think the one to start with is Gene’s test stand which is under $70. If you are handy in the workshop it is a relatively simple one-day woodworking project that you can build for half the cost.

Clock movement stand
Clock movement test stand

Clock movement work stand

I use two types. The first is movement plate standoffs and the second is a simple 4-inch high stand cut from a PVC pipe. The standoff set is anchored to the bottom plate by screwing brass end pieces to the four corners of the bottom plate (you can use three if you wish). The standoffs are sometimes called assembly posts and are around the $25 range in cost.

If you have 5-inch PVC pipe lying around simply cut off a 3 or 4-inch section.

Standoffs
Standoffs; either three or four can be used
Movement on standsoffs

The PVC is easy to work with and does not leave screw marks on the movement plates if you are particular about that sort of thing.

The movement is sitting on a piece of PVC pipe

Magnifier light

Florescent or LED. A color temperature of 6500k is the best compromise. Newer LED magnifying lights have custom color temperature settings. I see them on Amazon for about $50. Florescent bulbs have a shorter life than LED. Recently mine burned out and the replacement cost for the circular light itself is around $40 (for a $50 lamp!).

Worklight
Work-light

Clock oil and oil applicator

I have not had much luck with pen-type applicators and the few I have had have split with repeated use. Plus I am not sure the oil contained within is of very high quality. I am a bit old-school and use a cupped dipper and oil reservoir. Mobius and Keystone are good brands.

Count on spending $10 to $20 for quality clock oil. Motor oil, WD40, and 3-in-1 oil are not suitable substitutes and for me, the jury is still out on synthetic oil.

clock oil applicator
Clock pivot oil
Clock pivot oil

Movement clamps

When working with mainsprings, spring clamps are an absolute must for safety reasons. More than one beginner in clock repair has injured themselves by not restraining the mainsprings. A set of flat clamps (my preference) are around $17. If you wish to save money heavy steel wire will do.

Assorted clamps
Assorted clamps; flat clamp on the upper left

Tweezers

Useful for encouraging tiny pivots into place, picking up small clock parts, and a hundred other uses. A set will set you back $10. Bergeon will happily sell you a set for a few hundred dollars but cheaper blunt nose and needle nose tweezers will do.

Tweezers
Tweezers

Micrometer

Measurement in clock repair is important and a micrometer is essential. They are relatively cheap and can be had for under $20 at your local hardware store.

Using a micrometer to check pivot
Using a micrometer to check the pivot diameter

Cotton swabs

A general all-purpose probing cleaner for those tight crevices and corners. You will be surprised how quickly you can use up a box of 400. Under $3. Also useful for cleaning out your ears when determining whether or not your clock is in beat.

Cotton swabs
Cotton swabs

Toothpicks

There is no substitute for cleaning clock bushing holes. Buy them in the hundreds, you will need a lot of them. Get them at the checkout counter for under $2.

Toothpicks
Toothpicks

Mini level

A level surface is required to have a clock in beat. This one by Starrett is over $50 but you need not spend that much. Count on about $10.

Level
Spirit level

Spider key sets

The 4 and 5-prone sets in even and odd sizes will be enough for a vast number of clocks. As you move along in your hobby you will accumulate box loads of keys but a spider set is handier. Count on about $15.

4 and 5 prong keys and singles
4 and 5 prong keys and singles

Organizing trays

These are dollar-store items. Great for organizing clock parts (and not losing them). You can pick up a wide variety of sizes for under $10 total.

Organizing trays

Screw head holding screwdriver

I have a set by Klein Tools and find it a time-saver, especially when returning a movement to its case and holding and guiding that finicky screw in place. The gripping action holds, starts, and drives slotted screws in awkward, hard-to-reach places. A word of caution; they can be easily ruined if used to torque a screw in place.

I wish they can be purchased separately for a reasonable cost because I never have used the large one. About $60

Flashlight

Great for locating that nut that mysteriously flies through the air and lands on your floor sometimes never to be seen again. There are many other uses as well. The fancy ones are flexible but I have a penlight which is less than $10.

Flexible flashlight

Set of Single-Ended Scaler Probes

Okay, they are the same ones used by dentists to pick at your teeth but they are perfect for pulling that helper wire into position, guiding a pivot in place, or just about any time you need to pick at something, probe an area, de-scale a tooth (clock teeth, I mean), and so on. I bought mine at a dollar store but a set can be had for around $15.

Scalers

Concluding remarks

And there you have it.

For the next level, the costs begin to escalate but after purchasing these tools, and becoming familiar with clock movements through practice you will want to explore your hobby further. In a future article, I will describe how you spend big money on more specialized tools but also how you can get away with advanced repairs on the cheap.

Tick Talk Tuesday #44 – What can you tell me about this clock?

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

ED writes

Good morning, 

I recently bought a house and the previous owners left this clock behind. It ticks and chimes and seems to be in working order. I’m wondering if you could tell me more about it like what time period it is from and if it is of any value. 

Dial face of the Westminster C

Thank you in advance for your time!

My reply

Hi and thanks for your email.

The Westminster C is an unusual clock because it has 2 gear trains to perform what is usually done with 3 gear trains in most clocks, rare but not unique.  In most chiming clocks there are three trains or three winding points, one for time, one for strike and one for the chimes.

Two train patented movement

This model is based on patent designs filed in 1926 and 1930. Production of the patented movement began in 1927 so, your clock would be around that time and possibly a year or two later. There is a date stamp on the label but I cannot make it out. Could it be 2912, December 1929?

Possibly manufactured in December 1929

The sale price in 1931 was $29.95, a working man’s weekly salary at the time.

It is a very complicated movement that few repairers enjoy working on, because it is difficult to set it up correctly to have it run reliably. If your clock is running well, you are quite lucky because a repair can be very expensive.

They are uncommon enough that they can still fetch a good price on auction sites ($300-$400 or so).

Hope this helps.

ED write back

This is absolutely fascinating! Thank you for your quick reply. I am now looking at that clock through different eyes. 

I appreciate your help, and I hope you have a wonderful weekend. 

Tick Talk Tuesday #43 – Is this a Simon Willard banjo clock?

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

TM writes, “We have had a banjo clock in our family for multiple generations, and knowing my family’s history it would not surprise me if it was a Simon Willard original. I understand that is a long shot but it is so hard to find information about banjo clocks or reputable people to deal with. It is in relatively good condition, not knowing when my family acquired it exactly, but it is original to us. I am attaching a picture and would greatly appreciate your opinion.”

The family banjo clock

I am not an expert on Willard banjo clocks but have seen and read enough to inform me that Simon Willard clocks have distinctive features that separate his clocks from others.

My reply was, “Hi, and thanks for your email.

It may or may not be a Willard patent banjo. It would have to go through a process of authentication. An expert would identify the classic hallmarks of a Willard clock which would include movement design and construction, distinctive case features, door catch characteristics, construction of the dial, how the movement is mounted, design of the throat and lower tablets, and so on.

However, two things immediately strike me as odd. First, I have never seen a Willard patented timepiece (banjo clock) with an Arabic dial. Secondly, Willard banjo clocks have simple barbed spear hands, none as ornate as the ones on your banjo clock. Your clock could be a variant or the dial and hands could be replacements or the clock could have been crafted by another maker altogether.

Again, an expert in Willard clocks would provide the answer you are looking for.”

Simon Willard Patented Timepiece, C.1810; photo taken at the Simon Willard Clock museum in 2019

Simon Willard did little to protect his patent and as a result, many copies were made during the Federal period in Boston and in New England. Associates of Willard and apprentices to Simon and his brother Aaron produced clocks by the hundreds. Some of the copies were of high quality though they did not have the desired cache of a Simon Willard clock. And of course, many are fakes.

Willard clock; photo was taken at the American Watch and Clock Museum 2019

According to Robert C. Cheney, executive director and curator of the Willard House and Clock Museum proclaimed that the timepiece is “probably the most faked American clock found today.” Is TM’s clock an original, another maker, or a fake? An expert would immediately determine if it is real.

The photo at the beginning of the article is the only one sent to me and one photo is really not enough to make any kind of definitive judgment but I don’t believe TM has a Simon Willard Patented Timepiece.

My first antique clock – a Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock

I have been collecting clocks for over twenty years and for the past 11 years I have been building my collection of vintage and antique clocks, repairing them, and restoring them.

I often reflect back to that first “real” antique clock that my wife and I purchased at an antique store in Blockhouse, Nova Scotia in the fall of 2000. Blockhouse is about 2 hours from our home and during our Saturday excursion in the area, we stopped at various craft and antique stores to see what we could find.

The store is long gone but I remember the day we browsed through the store, looked at several antique clocks, and decided upon a Seth Thomas mantel clock.

The first photo of the clock was taken in December 2000

At the time we thought we were happy with the price we paid though as my knowledge of antique clocks grew I discovered that we paid far more than what it was worth. Still, no regrets.

It sat on an old Willis upright piano for a number of years and since then it has moved to our dining room where it is on prominent display.

The clock in 2016

The clock is an 8-day Seth Thomas time and strike. It is in an ebony case with adamantine features. These clocks are known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. The date on this clock is 1907.

Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case.

Type 89 time and strike movement

The movement had to be cleaned but it was in surprisingly good condition with one issue, a stripped regulating gear. Because the gear is stripped the clock cannot be regulated by inserting the small end of a 2-ended key into the front dial. However, it has an adjustable pendulum and I will stick with that until I find a donor movement.

Regulating gear cannot be saved

We ran it for a number of years until 2016 when I took the clock apart, cleaned it, and installed 4 new bushings.

It is not a clock that I keep running continuously but every month or so I wind it up and run it since antique clocks need to be “exercised” occasionally.

The clock today with gold scrolling restored

Given its sentimental value, it will stay in my collection.

Gustav Becker 2-weight Vienna Regulator – 6 years later

One of my retirement gifts in 2016 was a 2-weight time and strike Gustav Becker wall clock. My wife had thoroughly searched eBay and picked what she determined to be the best gift for me considering a Gustav Becker wall clock had always been on my wish list. It was everything I had hoped for but the clock came with one hiccup and a pretty big one at that.

It was badly damaged in shipment. Finials snapped off, all glass was broken, weights were dented, trim pieces fell off, the brass dial bezel was bent, a bent gathering pallet and the movement was missing critical strike side rack and snail parts. I managed to obtain a few pieces from the seller which was not everything I required and also put in a damage claim with the postal service but received nothing from them.

The main case was largely untouched at least

It was a good learning experience that taught me that one should avoid shipping a clock unless the shipper knows exactly what they are doing.

Where to start? At the time I was not sure how to approach rebuilding the clock. Do I set it aside for a later project or just dive into the deep end and learn as I go?

The original movement from 1902 is missing strike-side parts

I decided to have a go at it. After gluing the parts back on, replacing the glass, sprucing up the case, and sourcing a new movement (the original 1902 movement was replaced with a 1917 movement made in the same Braunau factory) the clock was finally coming together and at the end of the three-month project, it taught me a few things about movement servicing, sourcing of parts and case repair.

My wife took a look at this clock the other day and suggested I write an update. She said that it still looked impressive years after. I put a lot of work into this clock and it appears to have paid off as it still looks great on my living room wall.

Gustav Becker: taken October 2022

So, here it is, six years later.

The Canadian Clock Museum – a must-see for clock fans and museum lovers!

A museum is an institution dedicated to the display of objects of lasting interest or historic value. A museum can display just about anything but The Canadian Clock Museum, located in Deep River, Ontario (Canada) focuses on Canadian clocks or clocks that have a Canadian connection.

Canadian Clock museum
Canadian Clock Museum

Most are mechanical clocks as you would expect but the most extensive collection of (Toronto-based) Snider electric clocks is contained within its walls.

This Snider clock is located in the foyer of a Quebec City boutique hotel
Display of Snider clocks in the entry foyer of the museum

There are static displays that change very little over the years but Curator Allan Symons continues to acquire new and interesting clocks of all types and it seems that in the past two years some large hall and grandfather clocks have been added. Interesting, because they take up a lot of space and space is at a premium in this tightly packed museum.

Despite the museum’s diminutive size, there is a relaxing flow as one explores many manufacturers and thematic displays. It is easy to get lost in the history of the many clocks on display. There is just enough information on the description cards adjacent to each clock to keep the visitor’s interest without getting too deep into the weeds.

Many clocks come with interesting stories that Allan will happily relate but some histories are, unfortunately, incomplete. Clock collectors know that as clocks pass from hand to hand some or all of the history is lost forever.

The clock that intrigued me most in this, my seventh trip to the museum, is a top-of-the-line grandfather clock made by the Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto and donated to the museum. Founded in 1928 by Leopold and Sarah Stossel the Blackforest Clock Company and later the Forestville Clock Company was a prolific producer of clocks for Canadian Homes. Complete clocks were imported from Germany or movements were imported and installed in locally made cases.

The company continued as the Blackforest Clock Company until 1941 at which point the Second World War and the unfortunate association with Germany led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company. During the war years, movements were sourced from England, France, and the US. As factories ramped up production Forestville resumed importing movements from Germany. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and the company could not survive much longer without his leadership.

Blackforest hall clock

This imposing floor clock stands about 7 1/2 feet tall and is a majestic piece of mahogany cabinetry with carved bonnet and capitals, fluted columns, hand-painted moon dial, carved feet, and a large central finial over a carved head of a young woman(?).

Stunning top piece with carvings

The weights are cable wound by inserting a winding crank in the 3 arbours on the dial face. The case was not made in-house at the Blackforest Clock Co. but by a smaller firm specializing in grandfather clock cases (Westminster Time & Clock Industries from Scarborough, perhaps?).

However, the unique feature of this clock is the Westminster chimes on five tubular bells, one tube extending all the way to the inside bottom of the case. The chime hammers are driven by a large pin drum located on the top of the movement. The sound is not overly loud but melodious.

Westminster 3-train movement

If you have but a casual interest in clocks there are other displays of interest, one of which is an old phonograph made by the Victor Talking Machine Company, Camden, New Jersey, USA) and sold as the Victrola brand by the Ormes Furniture Company Limited of Ottawa.

Victrola was a brand name for the many table and floor models made by the Victor Talking Machine Company starting around 1927. The new models promoted the latest recordings made via microphone for the first time starting in the mid-1920s.

The museum’s large floor model is one version of the Credenza model.

Starting around 1900, before electricity availability, records were both recorded and played back acoustically.  Microphones and electric motors changed the music recording industry.

In the late 1920s, the Credenza was considered a state-of-the-art player for 78rpm records and it was available in either an electric version or a 4-spring wind-up. The museum has the electric version. The fidelity of this stand-up model is remarkable as it capably projects the music into a large room.

Victrola record player, the Credenza

Allan played a 78rpm disc recorded in 1951 by Mary Ford and Les Paul, yes the same Les Paul of guitar fame. The song was How High the Moon and the Victrola filled the room despite the limitations of a steel needle (stylus) and an acoustic trumpet (folded 6-foot wood horn).

Not only is the museum worth at least a one-time visit for clock lovers but return visitors will always be rewarded with some new and, of course, fascinating additions.

However, if you are unable to visit the museum Allan will take you on a virtual tour that will no doubt pique your interest to come and enjoy the museum’s many offerings.

Repairing a loose hour hand on a weight-driven banjo

The hour hand is loose on my unmarked circa 1840s banjo clock. It is an unusual problem and I can’t say I have ever come across an issue like this in my years of clock repair. It is supposed to friction fit on the hour pipe but the hand is definitely quite loose.

I have attributed this fine precision-made weight-driven banjo timepiece to John Sawin or one of his apprentices or associates. John Sawin, who apprenticed under Simon Willard, made clocks in the Boston area in the early 1800s and it appears that this clock was made in or around 1840.

It is not the usual ornate clock with reverse-painted tablets, gilt features, and an American eagle finial that one would envision as a classic banjo clock. This mahogany-cased clock is simple with timeless lines.

Back to the hour hand. I posted the issue on an online clock forum site and the consensus seems to be that I must stake the hour hand in several places on the inside so that it would fit tightly on the hour pipe.

The hour hand is on the right

On most American clocks the hour hand has a collet and the hour hand/collect friction fits onto the hour pipe. No so on early banjo clocks.

Collet on the hour hand

The staking went well, the hour hand fits snuggly and I am pleased.

A hobby takes second place during a weather emergency

Well, it has been hectic this past week or so (late September and early October 2022). Some of you were affected by Hurricane Ian in Florida (USA) which was incredibly devasting but we had a bit of weather here as well when Hurricane Fiona passed very slowly over Nova Scotia (Canada).

Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

It was largely a wind and felled tree event for us as the storm lasted almost 24 hours but it also meant that our electric infrastructure took a serious beating as 4 out of 5 people were without power at the peak of the hurricane.

As a result, we were without power for 8 days. Fortunately, some years ago we had our house wired for a standby generator. We were able to stay warm, keep our food refrigerated, and enjoyed hot showers every day. Some of our neighbors were not so lucky. We provided water and kept items of theirs in our fridge/freezer during the outage.

I usually spend many hours a week with my hobby repairing and restoring old clocks and generally performing periodic inspections of the clocks I have on display throughout my home and of course, adding new and interesting clocks to my collection. But not lately!

Attending to storm damage on our property was the number one priority. We live on a treed lot and unfortunately quite a number of our trees went down but none threatened our house, thankfully. Of course, we were chainsawing and picking up branches daily and as of this writing, we are still in the process of cleaning up our property. After 30-plus downed trees the property looks quite different.

Photo by eberhard grossgasteiger on Pexels.com

However, all is not lost. I have managed to keep up with my blog, stealing what time I can, and so there has been no interruption in my posts. I have even managed to reply to your letters.

We have made progress on the cleanup and things are slowly getting back to normal so that now I can get back to what I enjoy most, clock collecting and repair.

Selling your antique clock – some simple and effective strategies

So, how to sell your antique clock?

Unless a clock has a distinctive provenance or, is rare, it is difficult to make any sort of profit on an antique clock today. Some unique clocks, ones with a special history or, those made by famous clockmakers (those in the clock world know who they are) have retained their value and are highly desired by collectors.

Just because something is old does not necessarily mean it has value. A 100-plus-year-old common antique clock is worth very little today because thousands were made by many manufacturers over the years and quite a few have survived to this day. For example, there was a time before the internet came along that ogee clocks sold for $300 or more but are much cheaper now thanks to online for-sale sites that have depressed their value. It’s all about supply and demand.

Selling an antique clock can be a challenge but a few simple rules to follow will make it easier to part with your clock.

Does it run?

If the clock is running and was recently serviced by a competent repair person, state it as such. If the clock is running but the movement needs to be cleaned, state that it requires cleaning and possible issues that might need to be addressed such as running too slow or too fast or stops after a while. If the clock is not running say why or simply state you do not know the reason.

Describe excessive wear, damage, or missing pieces such as crowns, finials, keys, glass, and trim pieces.

Ogee style clock

Preparing the clock for sale

A clock in running condition will be worth more than one that is not running. If you are handy and know your way around clock movements, and can service a clock yourself, a serviced clock will command a higher price. A clock case cleaned of grime will present better than a dirty one unless you are a stickler for “patina”.

Missing hands or dial glass will adversely affect the price. Items such as these are not costly to replace and parts are typically available from clock suppliers but it means the buyer assumes that expense.

Mantel clock

Disclosure

Honesty is the best policy when selling your clock and if it has issues it is better to let the buyer know beforehand. It is therefore important to let the prospective buyer know as much as possible about the clock so that surprises can be avoided. A clock that is a marriage, a case with a similar but with a replacement movement, should be stated as such. Disclose issues such as replaced glass, newer dial, replacement crowns and finials, case repairs, or full case restoration.

Wall clock, known as a schoolhouse clock

Determining a price

Setting a price requires a little research on your part. What you paid for it originally may not be the best indicator of its value. What you think it might be worth may be far removed from the price you will finally realize.

Check eBay, Facebook Marketplace, and other for-sale sites for clocks that are similar and price yours within that range. Pricing too high will discourage inquiries but price the clock lower if you are eager to get rid of it.

Woodworks clock with a missing crown or topper

Where to advertise

There are various methods of selling a clock. Word of mouth is certainly the most rudimentary while the internet provides many more selling advantages. Facebook for-sale sites, local online for-sale sites like Kijiji, eBay, flea markets, consignment shops, and auction houses are popular places to sell a clock. Setting up an account for most online sites is a prerequisite.

For national or international sales, factor shipping into the price. Advertising locally and delivering the clock to the new owner avoids the hassle of shipping and the potential for breakage and of course other headaches.

Grandfather clock

Photographing your clock

Few cell phones are capable of capturing a detailed image but for most purposes, it is enough. Out-of-focus images are a no-no and will put off prospective buyers.

Several images from different angles as well as a photo of the inside of the clock case are much more helpful than simply one photo. During daylight, place the clock near a window and position yourself between the window and the clock to take a series of photos in natural light. If there is damage or wear take closeup photos of those areas.

If you have a dedicated camera experiment with artificial light take the best angles to get optimum results.

Description of your clock

Crafting an ad is an art in itself. You must be concise and accurate and not too wordy. There is a delicate balance between too little and too much information. Too much information or very little information means fewer inquiries from prospective buyers.

State the clock’s maker if possible, the model if possible, the year it was made or a reasonable estimate, the type, (time-only, striking clock, chiming clock), and the style of clock, whether it be a mantel, wall, shelf, parlor, Ogee, tall-case, and so on as well as any distinctive features.

A steeple clock with an alarm function or a clock with a second hand or calendar are examples of features that might attract specific buyers.

Well, there you have it. I think I have covered the most important points and if I have missed any, let me know. Good luck with your sale!

Sessions Mission style wall clock – past shoddy repairs make servicing a challenge

Between 1903 and 1933 the Sessions Clock Company of America produced 52 models of mechanical clocks ranging from simple mantel clocks and shelf clocks to wall or “regulator” clocks all designed for the home or small businesses.

Found in many homes across America Sessions clocks were regarded as relatively inexpensive, simple in design, and decently constructed aside from one noted design flaw, the clicks. After a hundred years many Sessions clocks are still running.

Mission style clock by Sessions

This is the only mission-style clock in my collection. I was not particularly looking for this one but a $10 find in a thrift shop is hard to pass up. Though this clock is non-running Sessions movements are simple enough to work on.

As there is no maker’s label I can’t tell you the model name or number of this wall clock but I assume that it was made in the early part of the 20th century.

The movement

The case is in very good condition and there is nothing missing save the winding key which can be easily sourced. The minute hand broke while I was setting the time, probably as a result of being bent so many times. That can be repaired.

Sessions movement with front plate off

The movement is a conventional Sessions design with a between-the-plates escapement setup as opposed to earlier Sessions movements that had inboard escapements.

I noticed many “X” marks around bushings but I did not see punch marks or replacement bushings. Was it meant to have had the bushings replaced?

Servicing the mainsprings

The cam wheel pegs for the striking lever have both been soldered and although it is not a very neat job the repair seems strong enough.

There is a hole adjacent to the escape wheel arbor which might have been made through manufacture but it is oddly close to the escape wheel bushing hole.

One more issue. The actuator arm for the hour strike had been bent so many times that it snapped off when I tried to test the clock before disassembly. This can also be repaired.

In short, this is a clock that has been worked on in the past and I would think, not by a professional. Sometimes home-cooked repairs are strong and functional and other times they leave a lot to be desired.

All is not lost and I think this movement can be saved.

The fusee movement – just what is it exactly?

A fusee clock movement is a type of mechanical clock mechanism that uses a conical pulley (the fusee) and a chain or cable to provide a more consistent driving force to the clock’s gear train. The fusee mechanism was commonly used in early pocket watches and large clocks to compensate for the decreasing tension of the mainspring as it unwound.

As a typical mainspring winds up, its tension is strongest, which leads to the clock running too fast. As the mainspring unwinds, its tension weakens, causing the clock to run slower. The fusee counteracts this by gradually changing the ratio of the force applied to the gears, ensuring a steady, regulated power supply. This innovation helps the clock maintain accuracy throughout its entire run.

Fusee movements are often considered an important step in the evolution of horology, showcasing the ingenuity of early clockmakers in solving the problem of maintaining consistent timekeeping. Today, they are still highly valued by collectors and horologists for their craftsmanship and historical significance.

Fusee movement in run-down condition

Most fusee movements were equipped with anchor escapements, though some featured lever or deadbeat escapements. Earlier fusee movements often had decorative sculpted pillars and pins to secure the plates, while later models used plain pillars with screws. This difference in design is one way to determine the age of the clock.

Jacob Zech is credited for inventing the fusee in 1525 although drawings of a fusee appear in Leonardo De Vinci’s notebooks.

Fusee in its run-down condition

Parts of a Fusee Movement

a) Spring drum

b) Winding arbour

c) Fusee

d) Main wheel

e) Chain (or gut or wire)

Of course, the above diagram does not show the wheels above the main wheel and merely illustrates the essential components of the fusee section.

A chain-driven fusee is the norm although wire and gut are common. Gut was used at first but around 1650 chains began to be used, which lasted longer.

How does it function?

The spring drum’s axis is parallel to the axis of the fusee. Around the drum is wound a chain that is attached to the fusee at its largest diameter. An attached mainspring is coiled inside the drum that sits next to the fusee.

When the key is inserted into the arbour of the fusee it pulls the chain causing the drum to rotate. Because the inner end of the spring is attached to the drum, the drum rotates until the spring is completely coiled. The spring is then at its maximum tension. At full winding, the chain is completely wound onto the fusee.

8-day time-only Fusee with12-inch (dial) gallery clock

As the spring begins to uncoil the chain is on the smallest diameter of the fusee. The pull on the spring drum becomes less as the diameter of the fusee increases. The diameter of the fusee becomes larger giving greater leverage.

The greater turning moment provided by the larger radius at the fusee compensates for the weaker force of the spring, keeping the drive torque constant and that is why fusee clocks are better timekeepers than conventional spring clocks.

Fusee movements are generally more expensive than conventional spring drive movements. Double and triple fusees add to the cost and complexity.

Disadvantages of fusee movements include their difficulty in adjusting. If the fusee chain or cable breaks, the force of the mainspring can send the end whipping around inside the clock, potentially causing damage. Any collateral damage, if present, must be repaired as part of the restoration. Additionally, if a replacement mainspring is needed, it must be an exact match; otherwise, the fusee will need to be adjusted to accommodate the new spring.

To sum up, the fusee mechanism transforms the uneven force of a mainspring into a more constant driving power, improving timekeeping across the full run of the clock. Though later innovations would offer simpler solutions, the fusee stands as a remarkable example of early mechanical engineering. Its complexity may present challenges in maintenance, but its effectiveness and historical significance ensure its continued appreciation among horologists and collectors alike.

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