A clock can be a thoughtful and lasting gift, particularly for a young couple who have just moved into their first home together. Unlike many household gifts, a mechanical clock offers more than a decorative touch. It brings character, history, and the quiet pleasure of watching a finely made mechanism measure the passing hours.

Recently, I decided to prepare a Kienzo box clock as a gift for just such an occasion. I know some of you might be thinking that I am foisting a clock on them, but it was actually requested, and I sent them a photo of the clock for their approval.
With its distinctive round-top case, clean lines, and decidedly modern, Art Deco-inspired appearance, this clock has a style that would look equally at home in a contemporary interior or a room furnished with vintage and antique pieces.
This Kienzle wall clock was purchased at auction in 2021. It was my second Kienzle, the first being an attractive desk clock from the early 1950s. However, I was generally unfamiliar with the maker. I later discovered that the clock was missing several details, including a decorative element above the number 12 and both standoffs. The pendulum rod retainer was also broken. Despite these shortcomings, the case itself is in relatively good condition. The clock was serviced in 2022 but has not run for approximately two years. The clock was made in 1930, close enough to be considered an antique.
However, before handing over a clock as a gift, there is more to do than simply give the case a quick dusting and wind the movement. A clock that has been sitting on a shelf for a couple of years deserves a little attention before it is put back into regular use.
Here is how I prepared this Kienzo box clock for its new owners.
Cleaning the Clock Case
The first step was to clean the case and bring back some of its original lustre. Even when a clock has been kept indoors, dust and accumulated grime can dull the finish over time.
I began by cleaning the case with Murphy’s soap and water, taking care not to use too much moisture. The objective was to remove the surface dirt without damaging the finish. Once the case was clean and dry, I applied three coats of furniture paste wax, buffing each coat before applying the next.
The result was a clean, attractive finish that complemented the clock’s rounded top and understated styling.
I also cleaned the glass door using Windex and a paper towel. The glass is an important part of the overall presentation, and removing fingerprints and smudges makes a noticeable difference.
Finally, I gently cleaned the clock dial using water and a paper towel. Dials can be particularly vulnerable to damage, so this is a job that calls for a light touch. The aim was to remove surface dirt without disturbing the dial’s finish, printing, or numerals.
With the case, glass, and dial cleaned, the clock was looking much more presentable. The next step was to turn my attention to the movement.
Inspecting and Oiling the Movement
A clock that has been sitting unused for a couple of years does not necessarily need a complete overhaul. Nevertheless, it is important to inspect its mechanical condition rather than assume that everything is in order.

In this case, the Kienzo’s movement appeared to be in good working condition and did not require servicing, as it had been serviced 4 years prior. However, on closer inspection, I noticed that the pivots were dry.
The pivots are the small, precisely finished ends of the movement’s arbors that rotate in the bearing holes. They are subject to friction as the clock runs, and appropriate lubrication is essential to reduce wear.
To access them properly, I needed to remove the clock dial.
First, I removed the hands. The dial was held to the movement by four pins, one at each of its mounting posts. Once these pins were carefully removed, I could lift the dial away and gain access to the front of the movement.
With the dial removed, I applied a small drop of suitable clock oil to each pivot, both at the front and at the back of the movement. This allowed me to lubricate the pivots directly rather than attempting to apply oil from the outside.
After completing the work, I secured the dial with its four pins, reinstalled the dial and hands, and prepared the clock for testing.
Although this was not a full service, it was a worthwhile precaution before putting the clock into regular use.
Getting the Clock Running Again
With the movement back in the case, I began testing the clock. This is where a little patience can be important.
Initially, I had difficulty getting the time train running properly. After spending some time trying to determine the cause, I discovered something rather basic: the time-side mainspring had wound down completely.
Without stored energy in the spring, the clock simply could not run. Once I wound it, the time train began working as it should.
It was a useful reminder that when troubleshooting a mechanical clock, it pays to check the obvious things before assuming that something more serious is wrong.
The strike train presented another small challenge. The clock was not striking as it should, so I investigated the problem and released some of the tension on the strike-side mainspring. After this adjustment, the striking mechanism appeared to operate properly.
With both the time and strike trains working, I could move on to the next stage: setting the beat and checking the clock’s performance.
Setting the Beat
A mechanical clock needs to be in beat to run reliably. When the escapement is in beat, the tick and tock occur at evenly spaced intervals. If the beat is uneven, the clock may run inconsistently or stop altogether.

To check this, I used my Timetrax clock timer to determine the beat and make the necessary adjustment. (There is no need to attach the pickup directly to the clock movement. Simply clip it onto one of the door clasps, where it will acoustically couple with the movement and pick up the sound of the clock ticking.) Once I had established the correct beat, the clock was running as it should.
I also cleaned the pendulum bob. Although it is a relatively small component, the pendulum is central to the clock’s operation, and a clean, presentable bob contributes to the overall appearance of the finished clock.
With these tasks completed, I had addressed the case’s appearance, checked the movement, lubricated the pivots, corrected the initial operating problems, and set the beat.
But there was still one important step remaining.
Testing Before the Gift Is Delivered
A clock that starts running on the workbench is not necessarily a clock that is ready to be given away.
The Kienzo is now in its testing phase. I plan to deliver it during the coming week, which gives me several days to observe its performance before it leaves my workshop.
There are two things I want to establish.
First, does the clock continue running reliably? A clock can appear to work perfectly immediately after an adjustment, only to stop minutes or even hours later. Allowing it to run for an extended period provides a better indication of whether it is operating consistently.
Second, how well does it keep time? Once the clock has settled into its running condition, I can compare its indicated time with a reliable reference and determine whether it is gaining or losing time.
If necessary, further adjustments can be made before delivery.

These final checks are particularly important when preparing a clock for someone who may not have experience with mechanical timepieces. The goal is to give the recipients a clock they can enjoy, rather than a project that immediately requires attention.
A Clock Ready for a New Chapter
Preparing this Kienzo box clock has been a reminder that even a relatively straightforward gift involves more than cleaning and polishing.
The case needed attention, the pivots required lubrication, the mainsprings had to be checked, the striking mechanism needed adjustment, and the beat had to be set. Now the clock needs time to demonstrate that it can run reliably and keep reasonable time.
What makes the effort worthwhile is the clock itself. Its round-top case and modern, Art Deco-inspired styling give it a distinctive appearance that should suit a young couple settling into their new home.
A mechanical clock is also a gift that can remain in a family for many years. It may eventually acquire its own history, perhaps becoming something that is passed along to another generation.
Before that can happen, however, it needs to be ready for the job.
For now, the Kienzle is on the wall and ticking away. Over the next several days, I will monitor its performance before delivering it to its new owners. I will even hang the clock on their wall, check that it is running properly, demonstrate how to wind it, and offer a few general tips on its care and operation before leaving it with them.
With a little care and attention, a clock that has spent years sitting quietly on a shelf can be given a new lease on life — and begin keeping time in a new home.
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Hi,
My Jaghan’s 1910 swisher was oiled recently by my “antiquarian horologist” but at home it stops with the bob on but runs without the pendulum bob attached ( the minute hand of course moves fast). It tick tocks regularly, but just stops after a few minutes. Very frustrating. Again, it operates without the bob but stops with it on and swishing. It also seems to be wound very tight and cannot be wound further, although I wad told “you can’t overwind a clock.”
James
Hi James,
There are a few things I would check before drawing any conclusions about the clock.
First, is the clock perfectly level, and is it sitting on a level, stable surface? This is particularly important with pendulum clocks. If the clock is not level, the tick and tock may not be evenly spaced. An uneven beat can eventually cause the clock to stop. Listen carefully to the tick-tock. It should sound evenly spaced, with equal intervals between tick and tock.
You mention that the clock stops after a few minutes when the pendulum bob is attached, but runs without it. This suggests that the movement is struggling to provide sufficient power to keep the pendulum swinging. There could be several reasons for this, including excessive friction, an escapement problem or insufficient power reaching the escapement.
I’m also curious about your use of the word “swishing.” Do you mean that the pendulum is rubbing against something, or that you hear a rubbing or swishing noise as it swings? If the pendulum is making contact with the case or another component, that could certainly cause the clock to stop.
Finally, you mention that the clock seems to be wound very tight and cannot be wound any further. There is a common expression in horology that you cannot overwind a clock. While this is generally true, there is an important qualification.
A mainspring must be free to unwind within its barrel. Over time, old oil, dirt and accumulated deposits can cause the coils of a mainspring to stick together or bind against the barrel. If this happens, the spring may not unwind properly, even though the clock has been wound. In other words, the spring may be fully wound but unable to release its stored energy effectively.
This is one reason why simply oiling a clock is not necessarily sufficient. A proper service should include dismantling, cleaning and inspecting the movement, including the mainspring and its barrel.
Given that the clock has recently been serviced, I would suggest contacting the person who performed the work and explaining exactly what is happening. A properly serviced clock should run with its pendulum bob attached.
I hope these observations are helpful.
Ron
Nice article
Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it.