Category: American clock

Maintaining your mechanical clock – it’s simpler than you think

Maintaining your antique clock – a discussion

Ingraham 30 hour cottage clock

How do I know if my antique mechanical clock is keeping good time? While it may be important today, years ago people had a different concept of time. Back in the 18th and 19th centuries common folk had little need to know the time of day precisely. There were no cars, TVs, or the Internet. There was little demand for careful timekeeping and clocks, whether they be spring driven or weight-driven, that were accurate to within a few minutes a week were considered excellent timekeepers. Astronomical clocks were certainly available to scientists and better regulators were made for commercial purposes (the railroads for example) but for the common man, the emphasis was on cost rather than absolute accuracy, and to-the-second time was neither sought nor desired.

The weight-driven ogee was a very popular clock for the home

The common mechanical clock for the home was a wonderful invention and by the mid-1800s, with a clock in every home people could regulate their lives whether it be sending the children off to school, attending church, or working in the fields.

In those days if the family clock stopped and usually there was only one in the home, the priority was to have it serviced often by backyard tinkerers. For those who could afford it, reputable repairpersons were available and professional repairs were provided.

Clockmaker's shop
Clock-maker’s shop from about 1900

Today professional repair shops are disappearing at an alarming rate and with it, knowledge is lost forever. There is no going back. Mechanical clocks are still with us and require periodic maintenance, after all, they are machines, and machines are not meant to last forever though they can last an incredibly long time if cared for properly.

That a mechanical clock can last a long time is partly because of clever engineering, robust construction, and periodic maintenance. Indeed, I have clocks in my collection that are over 150 years old that still work daily and not because of sheer luck. They are properly maintained.

180-year-old weight-driven banjo clock from Boston

Any clock repairperson will tell you that friction is a clock’s worst enemy. Worn clock parts that lack oil or dried up and dirty oil cause friction that can interfere with the running of a clock. Mitigating friction is the key a clock’s long life.

Trundle wear
Trundle wear on a lantern pinion

Several things happen to clocks as they run year after year. Oil contaminated with dirt and dust build-up, the oil turns black and parts moving with one another generate wear, gradually at first and accelerates as grime builds. In time wheels that are unable to properly mesh with one another cause a clock to stop. In some cases, weakened or tried mainsprings become set, lose their ability to completely unwind, cannot maintain their rated cycle (One-day, 8 days), and must be replaced. Wear is reversible in most cases but occasionally replacement parts are the only option.

When to oil and when to service

There is no absolute timetable with respect to periodic maintenance and servicing. there are many opinions among clock repairers but a cycle of between one to five years is considered reasonable. If a periodic inspection reveals that the clock is clean and the pivots well-oiled the period between servicing can be extended, assuming that the clock is running well, to begin with.

Clock pivot oil
Clock pivot oil

Routine maintenance should always include careful inspection and if necessary, disassembly of the movement, cleaning, addressing wear issues, reassembly, oiling, and testing. Even the simple task of reoiling a clock movement involves taking it out of its case in order to access all the oiling points.

When a clock stops

When a clock acts up it is sending out a clear message. When a clock is acting up one might be tempted to add more oil or spray the movement with either a lubricating oil or WD-40 (which is actually a water dispersant rather than oil). Doing so will actually turn the clock into a dust magnet and the combination will turn the oil or other questionable lubricant into a grinding paste around the pivots and exacerbate wear.

Those new to antique clocks will go to great lengths to avoid taking a clock movement apart but experienced clock repairers know that proper cleaning can only be done when a movement is taken completely apart. There are no shortcuts. Dunking a movement into a solution, drying it, and calling it clean is no substitute for complete disassembly. Dipping a movement into an ultrasonic cleaner also does not equate to a clean movement. Other than sending the clock to a shop which entails a fee for servicing one should either learn this task or establish a relationship with someone who knows how.

Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R

If one is mechanically inclined and comfortable working with small parts, learning to repair clocks can be a joyful and rewarding experience. Simple tools can be easily acquired and once the basics are mastered specialized tools can assist with more complex repairs.

Needless to say, one does not become an expert overnight.

Calibrating a typical American spring-driven mechanical clock

In our quest to have our antique mechanical clocks run accurately the immediate response is to regulate the clock, but have you thought about calibrating your mechanical clock? It is not as difficult as it sounds.

This is not the same as regulating your clock. A properly regulated Anerican-made spring-driven clock will show the correct time at the beginning of the week but will run fast through the week and may gain as much as 3 or 4 minutes mid-week and lose time at the end of the week.

Seth Thomas round top
Seth Thomas spring driven round top 8-day clock

Let’s use a spring-driven mantel clock with an 8-day cycle for our example.

Mainsprings release their peak power at the beginning of their cycle. As the mainspring winds down power is gradually released until the spring unwinds completely and the clock stops.

Gilbert spring driven wall clock

On some antique clocks, one might find “stop works” (otherwise called a Geneva stop) which is a clever star-shaped brass add-on to the main wheel that reduces the full release of power initially by flattening the mainspring’s power curve over its rated cycle (8-days) and thus maintain some level of accuracy through the week.

Geneva stops as indicated by the white arrows

But most clocks I have come across don’t have this ingenious device.

Weight-driven clocks are a different kettle of fish because the release of power is constant throughout the week. Once a weight-driven clock is regulated it should not require calibration.

Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator with weights

Calibration makes the assumption that your spring-driven clock will never accurately tell the time at any one given point in its cycle and essentially means setting your clock so that it loses no more than a couple of minutes at any given time through the week.

Sessions mainsprings, one for the time train and the other for the strike train

According to the Canadian Oxford dictionary to calibrate means “to correlate readings of an instrument with a standard”. If the standard is plus or minus two minutes per week, without the use of “stops” or other means to flatten the power curve, setting the clock two minutes slow at the beginning of the week will ensure that it is never off by more than a minute or two through the week.

According to noted horologist Robert H. Croswell, “If the clock is regulated such that it has a zero net gain or loss of time from the start to the end of the week, then take ½ the maximum fast error during the week and set the clock that many minutes “slow” when the clock is wound.” If the maximum is 6 minutes, then, half would be three minutes.

One could use a complex mathematical formula to determine the precise amount of time to set the clock at the beginning of the week but setting it two minutes slow for a clock that loses 4 minutes each week should suffice for most purposes.

Beat setting – a super quick guide

Having trouble getting that newly acquired clock to run continually. It may be as simple as a clock that is out of beat.

Here is a quick guide for setting the beat on your mechanical clock.

30-hour parlour clock with a pendulum

This quick guide refers to a mechanical clock with a pendulum. 400-day clocks, clocks with a balance wheel or lever escapement require a specific procedure to set the beat.

This movement has a balance type escapement requiring a very different procedure to set the beat

A pendulum clock is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven…ticktock…ticktock…ticktock…or tick…tocktick…tocktick…

When a clock is out of beat, either it will not run at all, or it will run for a few minutes and stop.

There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first, and simplest, is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. Now it will run, but it will look funny while tilted. If it is a wall clock the tilt may not be as noticeable but a tilting mantel clock will always look a little strange.

The second way is to adjust the crutch to one side or the other until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets and the pallets are the things that rock back and forth. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch.

If the crutch is a simple rod or wire, it is adjusted by bending it to one side or the other. If it attaches to the pallets with a friction joint, it is adjusted by holding the pallets still with one hand, and shifting (pushing) the crutch right or left on the friction joint.

Which way to tilt it? Rich Jones, a master clock repairer, has formulated a simple rule, known here as Arjay’s Maxim:

Sessions Drop Octagon
Sessions Drop Octagon with a pendulum

Tilt her till she ticks with pride
Then adjust the crutch toward the high side

First, use the tilting procedure to make the beat even. Note which side is the high side. Now, straighten the clock so it’s vertical, and adjust the crutch toward the side that was the high side.

How much to adjust it? Trial and error. Adjust the crutch, then start the pendulum swinging and listen to see if it’s in beat. If it isn’t, repeat the procedure. If it goes out of beat the other way, you have adjusted it too much. Adjust it back a little. You should get it right in one or two tries.

Using toothpicks to set the beat on a 400 day clock

Now the beat is adjusted and the clock does not look strange.

A beat amplifier will amplify the beat

A clock that will not run because it is out of beat is one of the most frustrating experiences for a new clock owner. Why would your newly purchased antique mantel clock be out of beat? Because it was adjusted for the last surface it was on.

Clock prices – a great time to buy despite crazy inflationary times

Inflation seems to be everywhere. The continuing decline in purchasing power is reflected in increased prices on almost everything.

The other day my wife and I bought a container of spray from a garden store. We thought the price was high at almost $25 but when we got to the cash, the clerk charged us $6 more. We showed her the sticker price and she said it was old stock and the computer had already adjusted the price for the new stock coming in. I understand supply chain issues and rising fuel costs but a 25% increase is a bit much. We argued and did not pay the extra $6. Needless to say we will not be buying that product again.

Everything seems to have risen in price as a result of inflation except perhaps antique and vintage clocks!

I don’t actively pursue high end clocks so, there could be movement price-wise for rare and highly collectible clocks but not for garden variety antique clocks. This completely anecdotal but I have been observing the clock market for some time and I do not see a lot of change in prices and if you are into buying and selling clocks this is not a great time to make a profit. Perhaps one day in the future but I believe that day is far off.

$12 cottage clock, unrestored

So, it has been a buyer’s market for the last number of years and it doesn’t look like things will change any time soon. There are many great bargains to be found everywhere and it doesn’t take much looking.

$40 Chauncey Jerome 30-hour ogee

Antique and vintage clocks have flooded the market in the past several years with prices tumbling even further downwards. The new generation of millennials have little interest in antiques and find it pointless to collect antique and vintage clocks. Their loss is our gain, meaning those of us who appreciate the finer things in life.

In addition, modern homes do not have the room for clocks as floor and wall space is limited. In an age when families are living in 800 square foot apartments space is at a premium though there is a hint that things could change as the migration from dense cities to smaller communities continues.

When space is at a premium grandfather clocks or any clock occupying floor or wall space are not items many would consider as necessary for the modern family home. Sentimental reasons aside, the cost of servicing far exceeds the value if the desire is to have a working clock.

$75 Junghans Crispi wall clock

Of course, I don’t have a crystal ball but judging from prices in the past few years I can comfortably predict that things will continue to be much the same this year and next. I do not expect a significant change in the months to come and that $20 bargain clock you discovered today at a flea market will not be worth much more next year.

It is a buyer’s market and there are some terrific bargains out there. Knowledge is power and no doubt there are some great clocks to be found but shop carefully and do your research.

Welch marine clock – two issues addressed before servicing the movement

A couple of weeks back I featured this Welch marine style wall clock. A marine clock can also refer to a ships’ bell clock. Ship’s bell time originated in sailing ship days, when the crew of a vessel was divided into Port and Starboard Watches, each on duty four hours, then off four hours. One stroke of the ship’s bell indicates the first half hour of the watch. Then an additional bell is struck for each succeeding half hour for a total of 8 bells.

E. N. Welch marine clock

This is not a ship’s bell clock. However, this is a clock that can be used at sea or in a rail car that simply tells the time. Lever and balance wheel escapement clocks are ideal for ship or train applications because pendulum clocks on do not work in those environments.

The movement was made for the E. N. Welch Clock Co. and I would date it around 1860, so, a 162 year old time-only clock with a balance wheel escapement and a seconds bit running off the second wheel.

The clock was bought at auction earlier this year.

The case is dirty but there are no veneer issues

From the photo above the case appears to be very stressed but under that grime and blackish tarnish could be a jewel of a clock.

Tarnished brass

The exterior of the clock has probably not been cleaned in decades or perhaps not at all.

In the old days folks cared for their furniture with weekly or monthly waxing/wiping/dusting or polishing of brass. That was simply the accepted practice. Items were not designed to be thrown-away and it was common to hold onto possessions as long as practicable.

This little clock has certainly been neglected over the years although there is nothing missing, the movement runs just fine and the open spade hands are likely original. Yes, it is dirty! You might call it patina and many collectors would accept the wear and tear over the years as part of the character of the clock. I take the view that it was meant to be shown and a little bit of intervention is perfectly acceptable.

I don’t have time to service the movement and it can wait till later this year but I was able to clean the case and polish the brass.

The brass took a lot of elbow grease and I am sure I went through half a bottle of Brasso but I like the final result. The case required cleaning with Murphy’s soap and one coat of traditionally prepared shellac.

Before

Since it is a 30-hour clock I doubt I will be running it much and servicing the movement can wait.

After

In the meantime I have an Empire gallery clock that I would like to service for summer cottage duty.

Tick Talk Tuesday #42 – Ridgeway clock damaged in shipping

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

PS writes;

I have a 35+ year old Ridgeway Tall Case “Sussex” clock that was severely damaged in transit.  It is my parents 35th wedding anniversary gift to themselves from back in the mid 80’s.  They have both passed and I inherited it.   It was shipped from Chicago to Phoenix where I live last month and when it arrived it was crushed pretty severely.    All of the weights are dented and scuffed,  the face is detached from the case and the case itself was all but destroyed. 

Similar to the Sussex

The carrier is requiring me to get a detailed repair estimate,  which I am more than happy to pay you for.    The insurance on the freight was $3500.00 and was one of the highest policies available.    Now they want a detailed breakdown estimate for repairs,  which will likely exceed the 3500.00 it is insured for. 

Can you please help me  with this? And if you could,  I would be happy to pay for your estimating services. 

Please let me know so I know how to proceed.

My reply:

As I am not a professional appraiser all I can do is give some advice.

I am sorry to tell you that while your Sussex clock may have cost your parents $3500 in the 1980s it is worth far less today. I have a similar model in my dining room. It is in excellent condition but it is worth no more than $500CDN. They are simply not collectible and grandfather clocks generally are not sought after unless they have historical value or a special provenance. You will be paying many more times what it is worth to repair it. Although for sentimental reasons the cost may not be important.

I have two suggestions. One, take whatever money you can get from the carrier without having to justify a breakdown of the cost. The carrier is engaging in a stall technique and may not even agree with any appraisal you submit to them. In other words take the money and run.

My second suggestion is to find another Ridgeway Sussex (or similar model) and marry the best parts of the two clocks. Chances are you will have good weights, and good glass etc. from the replacement clock. A replacement Sussex (or similar model) should not cost more than $500 and may well be much cheaper. It will take some looking around but they do come up on auction or for-sale sites occasionally.

Clock face showing moon dial
Clock face showing moon dial

I have another bit of advice. Your grandfather clock movement (the mechanical works) is at the end of or near the end of its service life. The  movements in these clocks were generally designed to last about 25 years. It may last longer but it is living on borrowed time. They can be repaired ($$$) but replacing the movement is more cost effective.

Hope this helps with your decision.

E. N. Welch marine style 30 hour wall clock

Marine movements were in high demand by the 1850s as boat and rail traffic increased. The marine movement is a specific type that does not have a pendulum. Pendulum clocks do not work on a ship or train because they require a stable base. A marine clock has either a balance wheel or lever escapement and were the perfect choice at sea.

This is an E. N. Welch 30-hour marine clock.

Many makers including E.N Welch would buy ready made movements from other shops, assemble them and sell the finished product under their name.

A short history of E. N. Welch. The E. N Welch company was formed on July 6, 1864. Elisha N. Welch (1809 to 1887) had been making clocks at a factory site on East Main Street at Forestville, Conn. since taking over the bankrupt business of J. C. Brown in or about 1856.

Marine style clock by E. N. Welch

The Welch firm was well known for its handsome rosewood cases, though in 1885, with changing styles in furniture, the surviving firm began to introduce new models with solid walnut cases and discontinued some of the older rosewood veneered cases.

After the death of Elisha Welch in 1887, the firm steadily declined, selling off some of its assets and issuing new stock to raise much needed capital. In May of that year the factory was closed down and a receiver was appointed. The receiver spent nearly two years selling off stock and settling the debts of the firm. It was not until 1896 that the firm resumed production.

But the company continued to struggle, would not survive and in 1902 its assets were bought by the Sessions Clock Co.

This movement was not made by E. N. Welch but was sourced from Laporte Hubbell. There were many variations of this movement but the basic two plate layout was identical. In this particular movement the minute wheel is in the two o’clock position and there is the addition of a seconds arbour running off the second wheel just above the “maker’s” stamp. From 1857 to 1863 the E. N. Welch Co. used this 2-plate, 30 hour marine movement. The exact year? Certainly no later than 1863. (source, NAWCC Watch & Clock bulletin, Nov-Dec 2013)

Otherwise, the case is in good condition with two small veneer chips, the brass bezel is very dirty, almost black from years of grime, the dial has minor losses and the movement is running well at this point though at its fastest speed it is running slow.

The plan is to service the movement, and refresh the case. It should be a fun little project.

A woodworks movement by Daniel Pratt Jr. and it actually works

Won at auction this spring is a Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse ogee with splat although this one is missing the splat, the decorative piece on top of the case.

According to the label it was made in or after 1843.

It was also missing the suspension spring and pendulum rod and the wire with regulating screw for the pendulum bob.

Daniel Pratt Jr reverse ogee clock

There are a few other things that are not quite right. The green banding that frames the upper and lower glass looks a little strange and likely added later and the card stock which would have replaced either a mirror or reverse painted tablet looks out of place. The picture of a young soldier holding a sabre and an American flag looks quite old.

But it actually works and works well.

It has a time and strike 30-hour woodworks movement. Wood-works movements were introduced in American at the end of the 18th century and the high point of woodworks movement production was prior to the depression of 1837. During the depression most clock production was shut down and small companies began to consolidate into larger ones.

Wood-works movement

With the invention of the 30-hour brass movement by Noble Jerome, clock making began to boom again in 1838. Inexpensive woodworks movements continued to be made but by the mid 1840s the woodworks movement production had begun to phase out.

Count wheel on left, escape wheel in the middle

This movement works

The weight cord on the right side looks like it would let go at any time but what the heck, let’s see if this thing works. The green one for the strike side looks sturdy. I will restring the clock later.

I removed the verge and determined there was no power getting to the escape wheel. I felt underneath and although the weight had been wound to the top of the case the cord was binding on the main wheel. It took a little encouragement to bring the weight further down but the adjustment did the trick. I then fashioned a new suspension rod/spring from my supplies along with a pendulum wire, gave the pendulum a gentle push and success!

About 3 hours later as the weight on the time side was descending I noticed the cable had broken at some point and a past owner had simple tied the two ends together. I believe the knot was causing the power issue.

I had already tested the strike side and it was working perfectly.

I have one other Daniel Pratt Jr. clock in much better condition but the movement will not run for more than a few minutes. This one has a splat.

So, one Pratt with a not-so-good case and a working movement and the other with a stunning case but a non-working movement. Should I do a swap?

Daniel Pratt Jr with woodworks movement

I have never disassembled a woodworks movement in my years of clock repair and I doubt that many clock repairers have much experience with one. It is one of the few movement types I have zero experience with but I may have to bite the bullet some day because this clock will not run forever.

Clock auctions – Ron’s rules for bidding

HAC mantel clock

The psychology of auctions, now that would be a fascinating study. How bidders behave, the frenzy of bidding wars often called “auction fever“, and the emotions wrapped into the pursuit of that one item everybody seems to want would be very enlightening.

Ingraham 30 hour cottage clock, under $30 at auction

Auctions are fantastic places to find great deals. I have found many clocks at auction for exceptional prices and have few regrets.

This post will explore how to use auction rules to the best advantage based on my experience and my observations. Presented are Ron’s tips that I have found effective. The focus is on online auction houses. eBay is another world but I suppose some of my advice may apply.

The photos on this page are auction wins over the past two years.

The classic auction

Although there are other types, the classic type of auction is where a seller sets the price, plus a time limit and bidders are encouraged to bid on the item. The highest bidder wins. This type of auction remains popular because of the familiarity and intuitive nature of the process.

Auctions can be live or online but online auctions are becoming much more common.

Using the “watch list” if offered

Many auction sites have a “watch list” which is a cool method of bookmarking the items you may (or may not) bid on. I generally peruse the auction offerings and click the watch button for those that interest me and in so doing generate a “list” of ten to twenty items for potential bids.

I hold off on bidding until I can determine which ones interest me the most, how much I am prepared to pay, and the total I have budgeted for the auction. I attempt to work within my budget but may make some adjustments during the auction.

The watch list also allows for a sober second thought before or during any auction. Put another way, I thought I wanted the item before but now I don’t.

Why you should not bid early

Auction sites want people to bid early to show everyone there is interest in the item. By revealing interest in the item others might be tempted to bid and this will drive up the bids. This benefits the auction house which makes more money on any item that sells higher. Novice auction goers are easily caught in this trap. Try not to get caught up bidding too high and too early in an auction even if it is something you really want. Fight the urge!

Establishing a limit

I consider each item carefully based on the photos and descriptions provided, determine what I would pay for the item in optimal condition, and factor in wear and tear or any parts missing in order to set an upper limit for my bid.

A tactic that works surprisingly well is to determine a maximum price on an item when the auction opens, make that bid and leave the auction.

Scottish tall case clock
Scottish tall case clock, $275 plus fees and taxes

Let’s say I bid $60, then leave the auction site. The next day or after the auction has ended, I will know if I won within my limit, or lost. If monitoring the auction a green win button will light on what you have won otherwise auction houses send out invoices after the auction has ended detailing items you have won. Winning is very satisfying, of course, but losing is not such a terrible thing, there is plenty of fish in the sea.

Others participating in the auction might also have set the same limit for themselves on a particular item. If I’m willing to spend $60, am I willing to spend $5 more (assuming a bid increment is $5). If I bid just higher than my limit assuming my limit is the same as others, I may still win the item without ignoring the budget I have set for the auction.

Without determining your limit, it’s too easy to get into a bidding war that might go something like this, “I was willing to spend $75, and I was outbid at $80. I could go $5 more and bid $85 but if I lose it at $85, $10 is only a tiny bit more”, and so on.

Stay within the upper limit and do not get caught up in a last-second feeding frenzy.

Auction “estimates”

This is just another method of forcing the bid higher. Ignore auction estimates unless there is a “reserve” on the item. A reserve price is a minimum price that a seller would be willing to accept from a buyer. In an auction, the seller is not typically required to disclose the reserve price to potential buyers. If the reserve price is not met, the seller is not required to sell the item, even to the highest bidder.

Proxy bidding

Most auction sites allow proxy bidding, meaning they will keep your bid as low as possible so you can win, but not exceed your maximum limit.

It works this way. I decide on a $60 upper limit and the auction’s bid increments are $5. At the start someone bids $5, I have set my bid at $60 but currently have the winning bid at $10. If someone else bids $25, my bid automatically goes to $30. They come back at $35, and my bid automatically goes to $40. If the auction ends at that point, I won the item for $40. If someone else came back before the auction ended with a $65 bid, then they win, but I do not exceed my limit. I then walk away from that item and focus on the next.

Rare items

Rare items that are desirable can be expensive. Humans tend to overvalue things they think are rare. However, thinking an item is rare might influence you to bid higher. The item may, in fact, be quite common. Do your research beforehand, or even during the auction.

For example, ogee-style clocks that some people would consider to be quite rare are, in fact, very common as thousands were produced by many American manufacturers over a span of 70 odd years.

Chauncey Jerome ogee clock, $35 at auction

Not so hidden fees and costs

There are additional fees and taxes as you would expect. Auction fees called “buyer’s Premium” is set by the auction house. The buyer’s premium is a percentage that is an additional charge on the hammer piece of the lot which is paid by the winner. Some auction houses will call it a service fee but think of it as a commission.

Buyers’ premiums may be higher for online auctions than live auctions and the percentage varies from auction house to auction house, typically between 15% and 20%. Some auction houses may even have an additional service fee above the buyer’s premium. Add taxes to determine the final price. A winning bid of $60 with a 15% buyer’s premium (our local auction houses) and sales taxes of 15% (Nova Scotia) pushes the final price to $79.35. It is the final price assuming you can jump into your car and bring the item home, otherwise, there are shipping costs. Suddenly your $60 win costs $200.

As a general rule, I do not request antique clocks to be shipped as the risk of breakage is too high.

The psychology of ownership

Here’s how it works. While you hold the winning bid, you begin to feel a sense of ownership, and the longer one holds the bid the stronger the sense of ownership. When outbid, you may think someone is trying to steal something from you and you want it back but now you are caught up in bid frenzy. To get it back you bid higher. However, even if you win the item you still lose because you have likely overpaid for it. Buyer’s remorse is the sense of regret after having paid too much.

Related is the Endowment Effect, meaning people will assign more value to an item that they own purely because they own it. This type of behaviour is typically triggered with items that have a strong emotional or symbolic significance to the individual such as something they had as a child or other nostalgic item.

A pocketful of money

Let’s say I plan on spending $500 at an online auction including buyer’s premium, tax, and shipping, so, I am limiting my actual bidding to approximately $300. Perhaps I am looking at only two items in the auction. For one I’m willing to go to $100, and for the other, I’m willing to bid up to $200 for a total of $300. I win the first item (for which I was willing to spend $100) for $25. I can now decide whether I should spend $200 on the second item, or if I’m now willing to go up to $275.

Determining a budget limit introduces an element of self-control and allows one to refocus attention on other auction offerings. It is also helpful when you are not watching the auction when it ends.

This is always an individual choice based on how much you feel the items are worth and what your research is telling you.

Ansonia Canada parlour clock, part of a $30 lot

Clock auction houses

An auction that consists only of antique clocks is a tough one to navigate and to win an item at a decent price. These auctions attract all manner of collectors and you might be bidding against a very determined collector who will want an item at any cost.

I find the prices in antique clock auctions to be generally quite high and unless you are looking for that special clock it is best to avoid them unless money is no object. I have much better success with estate auctions that do not generally attract dedicated clock collectors so, for the most part, you are bidding against people who have poor knowledge of antique and vintage clocks.

I suppose there are plenty of other strategies but these are the ones that have worked for me.

Servicing a Sessions Grand Assortment time and strike movement

The Grand Assortment was sold “six in a case” to retailers who then sold them separately. The name “Assortment” seems appropriate and I am not surprised that some collectors refer to them simply as the Grand. So, was the “Assortment” a choice among a number of Grands (Grand 1, Grand 2, etc.)?

Auction Photo

Selling clocks in lots of 6 was a fairly common practice in the early part of the 20th century. An individual might order one of the clocks either directly from Sessions or working through a retailer but would normally select one from the retailer’s shelf.

This clock was bought at auction in the spring (of 2022). The plan is to fix it up and sell it to offset a recent equipment acquisition. I am not normally in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to keep my collection manageable.

The clock case needs quite a bit of work which I will address in a future article.

The movement looks good but it is very grimy, no surprise there. We’ll get to that later in this post.

The Sessions dial

The dial, however, may not be salvageable. One option is a new paper dial, and another is a replacement with a suitable and period-correct alternative. I have the same size Arabic dial from an Ingraham gingerbread that I might use. Manufacturers interchanged Roman Numerals and Arabic dials on some models and I have seen at least one Grand Assortment on the internet with an Arabic dial so, an Arabic dial may be a good look.

These Sessions models were around for a number of years up to 1915 or so and like everything else the gingerbread clock fell out of style. I imagine this one sat on a shelf as a decoration for a good number of years after that.

The movement

Apart from having an even coating of dirt and grime all over the movement, there is surprisingly little wear.

A very dirty movement

Most Sessions movements I have come across have had a hard life and usually require a fair bit of intervention in terms of repairs including numerous new bushings. This movement may not need any as far as I can determine during my initial assessment. As a matter of fact, this is probably the least worn Sessions movement I have ever worked on. It is not without issues, however.

Judging from pivot scratch marks, wrench marks on the plate around the pillar nuts, mangled helper wires, and a replacement spring for the click on the time side it certainly has been worked on in the past, likely cleaned more than once.

A coating of dirt all over the movement

There was a film of rust on the mainsprings, not enough to write them off and they still have plenty of power left in them.

Trademark

Clicks are a documented weakness in Sessions’ movements. Both sides were in good condition although I had to re-attach the click spring on the time side. A past repairer had attempted a fix and replaced the original wire with a steel replacement wire that looks homemade, but it works. It just needed tightening.

The helper springs were evidently broken at some point and shortened. One was wrapped around the top pillar post and the lifting lever was wrapped around the count lever. Both should be attached to a pillar. I was able to reuse one but the other had to be replaced.

Helper springs top center

Most, but not all, American time and strike clocks have helper springs to maintain tension on lifting and locking levers. Springs are occasionally removed from a movement either because they are broken and/or repairers do not understand their function.

New helper spring

The mainsprings are in good condition. They were cleaned and oiled.

Mainspring retention clip to restrain the power of the springs

No bushing work is required for this movement which is a rarity for old American clocks I have come across. All pivots were polished, pivot holes pegged out and now for reassembly.

This is a fairly easy movement to reassemble but the strike side count and drop levers must be in the correct position in order for the strike side to function correctly. That means the drop lever is in the slot of the cam and the count lever is in the deep slot of the count wheel. The lock pin on the wheel just below the fan must also be next to the locking lever.

Sometimes I get it right the first time but often I must separate the plates on the top corner and re-adjust the locking wheel.

Everything in place but the escape wheel

Once re-assembled it is placed on the test stand for several cycles.

On the test stand

The next step is addressing the clock case finish.

The clock case needs quite a bit of work and may require stripping, not something I do as a matter of routine but in its present condition, it will never attract a buyer.

The tiniest clock movement I have come across, made by New Haven

Jerome & Co., a marketing arm of the New Haven Clock Co. made this clock in the mid-1850s. It is a 1-day or 30-hour clock called the “Rose Cottage”. In the 1850s and later, cottage clocks could be purchased with a time and strike movement, time and strike with alarm but this one is a very simple clock that was made to do one thing, tell the time.

Jerome & Co. 1-day clock

It is a very small movement. In fact the smallest American clock movement I have ever worked on.

A very small movement

The most interesting features of this movement, besides the size, are the solid third wheel and the high mount escape wheel with the entry pallet just above the wheel itself.

The photo below shows a very interesting “fix” for a worn pivot hole, certainly an add-on by a not-so-professional clock repairer. It consists of a piece of copper wire soldered to the plate. The copper wire then loops around the pivot and keeps it from moving in the worn hole. Many repairers at the time punched around a pivot hole to close it but this is an odd repair.

The movement in its case

Other issues included finishing nails instead of taper pins to secure the plates and the mainspring loop end attached to the bottom right post instead of the left. While on the right post (as found) the mainspring uncoils and pushes against the center cannon lantern pinion and stops the clock. I doubt that the movement could run a full day.

The movement

As a time-only movement, it is pretty simple in design. It takes all but a minute to disassemble and reassemble the movement.

My first task was to remove the ugly solder and copper wire. I pulled the wire away and using a soldering gun the solder dissolved easily, both front, and back since both ends had the same “fix”.

Wire and solder removed

Once the copper wire was removed I could see that the front bushing hole was elongated as I suspected.

New bushing, upper black dot, mainspring attached to the bottom left post

The only other bushing required was the escape wheel and back-plate. The bushing hole on the escape wheel bridge is a little worn but it should do for now as this clock will not be a daily runner.

The movement is on the test stand and running well. Now to see what I can do with a very worn and very tired case.

Jerome & Co Rose cottage clock – the case is a mess but the movement is interesting

I have a number of cottage clocks and they all seem to have one thing in common, they have lived hard lives and this one is no exception. They had the cheapest of movements, the cheapest of cases, and could be purchased for almost nothing but many have not survived and that’s too bad.

This is a one-day or 30-hour time-only cottage clock made by Jerome & Co. Most cottage clocks come with a time and strike movement, some had alarms but this has just the movement.

Jerome & Co. cottage clock

Chauncey Jerome was a prolific clockmaker and a true pioneer of the early American clock. Despite his success in clock manufacturing from the late 1830s to the early 1850s a number of poor business decisions led to bankruptcy in 1856, and the assets of the bankrupt Jerome Manufacturing Co. were purchased by the New Haven Clock Co.

Time only movement

While Jerome was involved in numerous clock-making activities after his bankruptcy and marketed clocks under his name and label, Jerome & Co. is not one of those. “Jerome & Co.” was a tradename used by the New Haven clock company.

Label

The Jerome name obviously had some cache and it was a good marketing strategy on the part of New Haven.

The plan

The movement is very simple in design. However, it has had an odd repair. On the left side of the movement is a copper wire soldered to the brass plate. The copper wire wraps around the 3rd wheel pivot and acts as a bushing. There is a similar repair on the backplate. This will be removed and replaced by a brass bushing. There are one or two other bushings required as well.

As for the rosewood veneer case, I am not sure what I will do. There are veneer losses on the right side of the case, the bottom corners, and the top left. Most of the gilt around the front access door has worn off, there are significant losses on the dial, there is a large age split on the top-right and the reverse painted lower tablet has signifciant losses. I don’t want to go too far and ruin the clock but as it is, it looks quite bad.

An obituary for an E. Ingraham gingerbread clock – the case that is!

Can this gingerbread clock made by E. Ingraham be saved? Possibly, but this clock is destined to become a parts clock and I will explain why in this post. In the spring of this year (2022) 4 clocks were bought at auction. I can save three of them but not this one.

Gingerbread clock

Gingerbread clocks often called “kitchen clocks”, were introduced after the American Civil War and remained popular until the end of World War I.

The term is derived from the tradition of making decorated gingerbread houses which began in Germany in the early 1800s. The broad application of the gingerbread style applied to almost anything including clocks.

Auction photo

The gingerbread design is polarizing. Collectors either love them or hate them. I am not particularly fond of the design generally, with certain exceptions, but I can see how some collectors are attracted to the style.

The cases were steam-pressed oak and occasionally other hardwoods were used. Various designs were pressed by a heat-bond process which was quite advanced for the time. It was a time-saver, spectacular designs were pressed within seconds and it saved on labour costs. Hundreds of thousands of these steam-pressed oak-cased clocks were made and all are now well over 100+ years old.

So, what is off putting about this clock?

It came with no glass and to me that is the deciding factor. I do not have the time or inclination to look for an appropriate tablet for this clock and obtaining one will not increase its value appreciably will not make it more desirable.

Auction photo

The case may look good but the auction photo does not tell the entire story. There are newer screws and nails in various places in the rear of the case that were used to keep the case from falling apart and not a very professional job at that. It would have to be taken apart and re-glued.

On top of everything I don’t like this clock enough to spend any time on it.

I can use the dial for a Sessions clock I am working on and will keep the case, harvesting what wood I need for future projects.

I will inspect the movement and if things look good, service it and sell it separately.

Call this an obituary. The reality is this clock has been around for over 100 years, has served its purpose and has now come to the end of its life.

Grand Assortment by Sessions – is the assortment really that grand?

This is not the first Grand Assortment clock from the Sessions Clock Co. that I have worked on. In June 2019 I repaired a family member’s clock. It is exactly the same model.

Auction photo

The Grand Assortment was sold “six in a case” to retailers who then sold them separately. The name “assortment” seems appropriate and I am not surprised that some collectors refer to them simply as the Grand. Selling clocks in lots of 6 was a fairly common practice in the early part of the 20th century. An individual could probably order one of the clocks either directly from Sessions or working through a retailer but would normally select one from a retailer’s shelf.

Styles of Grand Assortment

Tran Duy Ly shows this Assortment model from the 1915 catalogue. It was likely made earlier but this style of clock was well on its way out by about 1915. This is Grand No. 3 and the price was $4.00, a day’s salary for a working man. All were eight-day runners but could be ordered with alarm (45 cents extra), cathedral bell (45 cents more), or standard wire bell.

This one was purchased at auction for $35 and listed as “not-tested”. “Not-tested” is an interesting auction term for “it may or may not work and it probably doesn’t”.

The note came with the clock (1903 is the year Sessions began making clocks)

Gingerbread clocks also called “kitchen clocks” were introduced after the American Civil War and remained popular until the end of World War I. The term is derived from the tradition of making decorated gingerbread houses which began in Germany in the early 1800s. The broad application of the gingerbread style applied to almost anything including clocks.

However, gingerbread clocks have polarizing designs. Collectors either love them or hate them. I am not particularly fond of the design of this one but I can see how many at the time were attracted to the style.

The clocks’ cases were steam-pressed oak and occasionally other hardwoods were used. Various designs were pressed by a heat-bond process which was quite advanced for the time. It was a time-saver, spectacular designs were pressed within seconds and it saved on labour costs. Hundreds of thousands of these steam-pressed oak-cased clocks were made and all are now well over 100+ years old.

The clock is 22 inches tall, ten inches wide with a 6-inch dial. It is a time-and-strike movement striking the hour and half-hour on a coiled wire gong.

I am not a huge fan of Sessions’ movements, particularly from this vintage. Too many helper springs, frustrating to re-assemble, and setting up the strike side is always finicky plus the poorly designed weak clicks are prone to failure (yet they’ve lasted this long!). Set up properly they will run reliably for years and are reasonably good time-keepers for a spring-driven clock.

Is it worth fixing? Certainly, there is nothing fundamentally wrong with the movement but the case is in rough shape and will require considerable intervention. The paper dial on tin is also in poor condition. Quite often the crown is broken, pieces missing or cracked which is the case for this one and unfortunately, it is not very well glued back together.

The Plan

The movement should be fairly easy to service. I don’t see a lot wrong with it upon initial inspection. As expected it is quite dirty but I don’t see a lot of wear. I won’t know conclusively until I take it apart. The plan is to put the movement in proper running order.

A dirty movement but there does not seem to be a lot of wear

The finish is badly aligorated and will need a lot of work. “Aligorated” means that over time the surface of the case was exposed to heat and high humidity causing the shellac to coagulate in clumps resulting in a mottled finish. I will attempt to renew the finish which might involve stripping the finish. That may sound extreme but it may be the only solution.

The dial is in poor condition

Rust has bled through the paper dial and as such it is beyond hope and will be impossible to restore. I may change out the Roman numeral dial with an Arabic dial from an E. Ingraham gingerbread clock from the same period. The dial size is exactly the same and the centre canon and winding arbours fit perfectly. Checking on the internet I note that there are several Grand Assortments with Arabic dials.

Once the movement is serviced and the case is redone, there should be a dramatic improvement. I have already decided that I will not be keeping it as it will be resold to offset equipment costs.

Here’s what a $12 auction clock looks like

I am a bit of a sucker for cottage clocks, have several of them, most are 1 day but I find them interesting just the same. There are not many survivors for a good reason. They were the cheapest clocks one could buy and when they stopped working they were either thrown away or repaired by some local clock fellow to get a few more years out of them. I am not on a quest to obtain the most inexpensive clock possible but this little cottage clock was tacked onto several items bought on an online auction.

“You won the clock”, my wife said. “What clock?”. “You know, the cottage clock”. “Oh, that one!”

Well, here it is.

Jerome & Co cottage clock

Pretty rough! An initial inspection reveals losses on the dial, missing veneer here and there, losses on the reverse painted tablet on the lower section of the access door, gold trim that has long worn off, and a movement that has had strange things done to it.

1 Day movement

It is a time-only clock that runs for 30 hours, otherwise called a 1-day clock. It was made by Jerome & Co., a subsidiary of the New Haven Clock Co., and has no connection to Chauncey Jerome himself. Chauncey Jerome’s interests were sold off to New Haven by the mid-1850s.

The copper wire soldered to the brass plate next to the escape wheel (photo above) is an improvised bushing. I have seen a lot of interesting repairs over the years but this is different. A few other issues. The plate pins are finishing nails and one pin in the back of the movement is a toothpick! Plus, it has been sprayed with what looks like WD-40.

Like most mechanical clocks, they can be correctly repaired and brought back to life. As to the case? I will have to give it some thought.

Jerome & Co, Rose cottage

When this Jerome & Co 1-day clock was made is a mystery but the solid wheel in the upper right rear of the movement tells me that this clock may be from the 1850s or 1860s.

It’s a $12 clock. What would you do with it?

I have some ideas. Stay tuned.

Ansonia Canada 30-hour kitchen clock – almost as good as new

This attractive little clock was bought at auction earlier this spring.

The walnut case is actually in good shape and the tablet looks not only original but is in decent condition as well. I expected a well-cared-for movement but to my surprise, it was in deplorable condition, a prime example of a clock that saw little servicing and was destined to fail.

Thanks to reader JC who identified the clock as the “Canada” found in Ansonia’s 1886 catalogue.

Auction photo

After installing 7 bushings and two pivots it now running as it should.

The case

It is missing a few top pieces but surprisingly the pieces came with the clock. They are in front of the Sessions gingerbread clock in the photo below. The glue let go and of course, it is a matter of gluing them back in place.

I blame it on rough handling on the part of the auction house otherwise why would the parts come with it.

Sessions and Ansonia clocks were bought as a lot.
The case after a coating of shellac

Once the parts were re-glued it was an opportunity to clean the case and apply one coat of traditional shellac.

The dial looks too new, though it looks great and was no doubt replaced at some point in the clock’s life. The spade hands look correct for the clock.

The case was surprisingly well preserved but it is unfortunate that the movement was in such poor condition but now has a new lease on life.

Here is the final result. The movement and alarm mechanism have been reinstalled back into its case. After several days it is running well and keeping good time.

A handsome clock that is even better after a refresh and minor repairs.

Refreshing an Ingraham “octagon top” 30-hour shelf clock – keep or sell?

This 30-hour shelf clock (hour strike) was manufactured by American clock-maker E. Ingraham and Co. in the 1870s. There are various iterations of the name over the maker’s history but this was the one the company used from 1861 to 1880.

The clock was bought at auction in mid-March 2022 along with 3 other clocks. In this post, I will take the reader through the process of refreshing the case.

Auction photo

This is an excellent example of a tired case that needs attention. When I look at a clock case such as this I assume the movement is well worn but a pleasant surprise awaited.

The movement is in surprisingly good condition as a result of regular (somewhat) servicing over the years. It has been in the shop at least three times, 1879, 1916, and 1994 according to dates found on the back of the case and perhaps more occasions that are not recorded.

Analysis of the case and plan of action

The gold banding on the front face of the “octagon top” and the inside frame of the access door has some losses and the goal is to hide the nicks with gold artist’s paint matched to the trim. First of all, it is not a true octagon but half of one, but that is how these clocks are described.

The overall finish is in fair condition. Numerous cosmetic issues such as scratches and nicks here and there over the rosewood case are evident, but a good cleaning with soap and water followed by a fresh coat of shellac should fill in the scratches and improve things dramatically.

Auction photo showing nicks and scratches

The dial shows considerable wear after years of daily use and this is a situation where a replacement paper dial might be considered but I am always hesitant because replacement dials take a certain something away from and antique clock.

However, I am going to see what I can do by attempting to bring the numbers back with black acrylic paint while retaining some of the patina.

The moon hands look correct for the period of the clock.

As a collector who has seen a good number of these styles of clocks, I first thought the access door glass was a replacement since many clocks from the early to late 19th century had reverse painted tablets.

Because of the decorative pendulum and the bright brass bell both meant to be seen, the stylized panel that serves as the base for the dial, the total absence of any paint remnants, the glass panel with its waviness and various imperfections plus the putty-like material that is used to mount the glass to the door, the glass appears to be original to the case. A pleasant surprise!

It is always a bit of a disappointment when something is lost or changed on an antique clock especially one that is close to 150 years old and when replacement parts are difficult to source.

No doubt some of the scratches on the case, dents, etc. (not all, of course) are the result of rough handling either when transporting the item to the auction house or during its stay.

Addressing issues with the case

The very first step is a good cleaning. Cleaning a clock will generally result in the removal of some of its protective finish but it is inevitable given that it has been on the clock a long time.

Auction photo

For old American clocks I generally use traditional shellac made by combining shellac lacquer with shellac flakes. Amber Shellac adds a certain hue to the case and the cut is light enough that it dries to the touch in less than a minute which is my preference.

When there are large flat surfaces I will use a “french polish” but for this project, a broad artist’s brush is best. I apply the shellac in long strokes completing each section at a time.

The decorative black wood panel that serves as the dial mount is also shellacked allowing for small scratches to fill in very nicely.

The original paper dial is well worn and presents significant challenges as all the numbers on the dial are either partially worn off or completely erased. This was a well-used clock!

Top and bottom lines of the numerals are filled in

Using an artist’s fine-tipped brush, black multi-surface acrylic paint, and a steady hand I filled in as much as I could. The numbers around the winding arbours were the worst because I had little to work with and they were the most difficult to reproduce.

Once all the Roman numerals were completed and thoroughly dry, I used a Sharpie fine-tip “artist’s permanent marker” and a straight edge to clean up the lines. I decided not to touch up the chapter ring other than the 5-minute markers. I am not entirely happy with the number 4 on the dial but that’s as far I am going.

Closer view of the dial

As for the gold trim on the face, I did not want to mess with the patina, nor did I wish to cover the gold which would have completely taken away from the antique look. I mixed acrylic multi-surface gold paint and a very small dab of black paint for an “aged” effect and used a fine-tipped artist’s brush to carefully dab the bare areas.

Finally, the brass bezel and inner ring were given a polishing.

The clock is complete

The clock has been transformed. The dial has been rejuvenated, the movement serviced and reinstalled, the bell gong attached, the case given its many touch-ups, and the decorative pendulum is attached. Now to regulate the clock.

In the final analysis, I believe that I have struck the balance every collector and restorer seeks and that is maintaining the original patina of the clock while not taking away its antique look. It is 145 year old antique that has seen good use over the years but applying modern techniques that are minimally invasive have brought it back to life.

I have one more decision to make. I acquired this and three other clocks to sell in order to offset the cost of new equipment but now that I have seen the final result I wonder!

The case may be a lost cause but I can save the movement

The case might be a lost cause but I can certainly save the movement of this Ingraham Ocean series gingerbread clock. The clock came to me in fair condition but it was missing a key element, the glass tablet and for that reason, I am not inclined to source a replacement, the clock is just not worth it.

There were several shards of glass at the bottom of the case and I suspect the glass was broken during its journey to the auction house or at the auction house itself which is unfortunate. I could substitute with clear glass but that would diminish the value of a clock that is not worth much, to begin with.

Ingraham Ocean Line, pieces of another clock in foreground of auction photo

However, I can save the movement and the dial as well as a door catch, perhaps use it for future projects or for spare parts.

It was dirty as one would expect and it has not seen the inside of a professional repair shop judging from a rather sloppy click repair. The repair appears to have held and I will tidy it up and leave it.

The movement is interesting and clearly late manufacture. The number 11 is stamped on the movement which might indicate that it was made or about in 1911. Regardless, it is from the pre-war period. I also see steel pieces such as the intermediate wheel, the centre cannon, the fly and the count-wheel hub.

All the parts were placed in the ultrasonic and cleaned following which I replaced the wheels between the plates to recheck for wear. It looks like 5 new bushings on the front plate, 2 on the strike side and on the time side, and all the upper wheels in the trains. On the back, the third wheel requires a new bushing as does the second wheel and the escape wheel.

Black dots mark where new bushings will go.

Eight bushings in all, which is fairly standard for a movement with this degree of wear.

Mainsprings are cleaned and oiled

I have not worked on an Ingraham movement in some time but recall that the strike side is set up quite differently.

The count wheel is mounted on the second arbour (unlike most which mount on the main wheel arbour) and advances by means of two pins that extend from the third wheel lantern pinion. The third wheel is a combined locking wheel and pin wheel. There is no cam on the arbour, instead, there is a space between two pins that allows the lever to drop at the same time the paddle drops into the deep slot on the count wheel. The fourth wheel is just used for warning and not for locking.

Reassembly and testing

All went well. A couple of adjustments had to be made but otherwise, it is running well. I will leave it on the test stand for a week or two.

The movement will go into a bag and be stored for a future project. I already have plans for the harvested clock parts but if I find another Ingraham gingerbread in the Ocean series, I might consider resurrecting this one if the tablet is intact.

E Ingraham and Co. 30 hour movement cleaning

The movement was pulled out of a 30-hour shelf clock made by American clock-maker E. Ingraham and Co. in the 1870s (the name the company used from 1861 to 1880). The clock was bought at auction in mid-March 2022 along with 3 other clocks.

E Ingraham 30-hour movement

This is one of those situations where the case looks distressed whereas the movement looks like it has been well cared for over the years. It has seen service at least three times.

The three dates, two on the back panel and one on the rear of the dial, are all presumably service dates. The inscription, Bridges Bros, Woodstock, New Brunswick, 1879 is the earliest and on the back panel are the dates January 31, 1916 (barely readable) and October 1994.

Auction photo

The case

The gold band on the front face of the “octagon top” has some losses. I intend to hide the nicks with gold artist paint matched to the case. There are a few scratches over the rosewood case which will be hidden by a fresh coat of shellac following cleaning with soap and water.

5% of a label remains on the back. The inside label is interesting since most of the back panel is covered in black paper with E Ingraham Co. inscribed in gilt on the bottom section.

Dull dark blue paper label with gilt lettering

The dial shows considerable wear following years of daily use and the plan is to enhance the numbers with multi-surface black acrylic paint.

Auction photo

As a collector who has seen many of these styles of clocks, I initially assumed the access door glass was a replacement since many from this period had reverse painted tablets. Due to the decorative pendulum, the bright brass bell, the stylized wood panel that is the base for the dial, the glass panel with its waviness and various imperfections plus the putty-like material that is used to mount the glass, the total absence of any sign that it was painted, the clear glass appears to be original to the case.

It is always a bit of a disappointment when something is lost or changed in a clock’s history but the case looks reasonably good despite the minor wear.

Some of the scratches, dents, etc. found on a case (not all of course) are no doubt the result of rough handling either when transporting the item to the auction house or during its stay.

This is certainly not an example of a case that requires refinishing. The minor touch-ups and enhancements will dramatically improve the appearance of this clock while not changing its character or value in any way (but may even increase it marginally).

The movement

Now to the movement. The movement looks surprisingly good for its age and from my first inspection, it does not need much to put it right.

The front plate and escape wheel removed

Every time-side pivot and bushing is in very good condition and there is an old replacement bushing, 3rd wheel back-plate.

The strike side requires a new bushing second wheel back-plate. There are two old replacement bushings on the front plate and two on the backplate, all on 3rd wheels. The bushings are nice to see but it is not encouraging when one pops out while pegging the movement. It will be replaced. Not the best of workmanship.

There are punch marks around four bushing holes, front, and back. All pivots on the strike side are in very good condition.

It also appears the time side mainspring has been shortened a bit, not a concern since these clocks when properly serviced will run well past 30 hours.

All in all, it should be a quick project. Now that I have a clear idea of what needs to be done I will get to work on the case. Expect a post on the case itself in the next few weeks.

Lessons learned from 10 years of clock collecting, repair, and restoration

Ten years have flown by very quickly. Just the other day I was cleaning a clock I serviced over 5 1/2 years ago and it struck me that I have been at this for over 10 years and loving it.

Three years into the hobby I decided to begin blogging and have been at it for close to 7 years. I love blogging and it helps me gauge my progress as I explore new avenues of clock collecting, repair, and restoration and it allows me to marry my photography hobby with writing.

It has been quite the journey, I have learned a lot in that time and have some thoughts I would like to share.

Managing my collection makes me a better collector

In the early days, I would collect just about anything I could get my hands on, the cheapest clocks imaginable, some for as little as $5, generally for practice working on cases and movements but the number of clocks began to build up at a fast rate.

80 clocks is a comfortable number for me. I have adopted a “one comes in, one goes out” rule to control the size of my collection.

I learned to become more discriminatory and concentrate on particular types of clocks rather than any clock at all, selling off or gifting those that did not fit my new criteria. Spring and weight driven wall clocks and American and Canadian shelf clocks from the 1860s and 1870s are my principle focus at this time.

Museum collection

Take your time, there is no rush

Rewards come in small increments. My last major project was an antique 1840s circa banjo clock. Acquired in the spring of 2021 it took me almost a year to complete the project, working on it in stages.

Sawin Banjo clock C.1840

Whether it is restoration or repair, I take my time investigating new (to me) techniques or wait for a tool that I feel would make the job simpler. For example, the bezel repair on the banjo clock above was made much easier by the purchase of a band clamp.

Buy only the tools you require and more if and when you need them

Tools can be expensive. As in any hobby requiring the assembly and disassembly of mechanical devices, I relied on the tools I had on hand to get started. Once committed to the hobby my next decision was to determine how I wanted to grow it.

Equipment such as a pivot cutter. lathe, a decent ultrasonic cleaner can amount to hundreds if not thousands of dollars.

Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine

It took me four years to justify purchasing a pivot cutter, another year or two to buy a lathe and ultrasonic cleaner and over time I have managed to acquire most of the hand tools that I require. Spreading out the costs over time has also made it financially feasible.

There is always the option of buying used but I live in a distant part of Canada with a low population and there are just not as many people engaged in clock collecting and repair as would be elsewhere.

Antique and vintage clocks are cheap and there are plenty of them

Some clocks are well over 100 years old but are worth almost nothing. A glut of antique clocks offered on the internet have lowered their value. Ogee clocks that were once two and three hundred dollars years are worth a quarter of that today.

I have bought $40 clocks that are now worth, well…$40. There are a rarefied few in the world that are worth a fortune but I don’t have any of those in my collection.

Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock
A $5 barn find

Some clocks have crept up in price over the years but I do not have anything that I would call very valuable. Others, such as my collection of eight Arthur Pequegnats mantel and wall clocks are highly collectible in Canada.

At any given time there are literally hundreds of “antique” clocks offered on online for-sale sites. A majority of these clocks are trash and many are not antique though they are offered as such. Sellers often advertise clocks that are beyond repair and unfortunately clocks made in Asia are cheap, dangerous to work on, and were never meant to be repaired.

Choose repair advice wisely – not all advice is good advice

There are experts on clock repair out there, you just have to find them. It is too easy to get swept up by people who do not know what they are talking about and there are a number of well-meaning folk on YouTube that offer questionable clock repair advice. I follow a couple of well-respected YouTube repairers and have seen enough of their videos to convince me that they know what they are doing.

As I am a member of the NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) and a member of the Ottawa Valley Watch and Clock Collectors Club, chapter 111 of the NAWCC. As such I have access to a wealth of information including online library resources and articles. NAWCC has an online forum presence that anyone can join for free. There are a number of well-respected people on the forum who contribute regularly. They have years of experience and offer excellent advice.

There are few clock Facebook groups but the advice is all over the map. Tinkerers and experts can be found but the expert soon loses patience and many are chased away by the know-it-all.

Collect clocks for profit? The margins are too small. However, I do sell the odd clock to offset equipment purchases. For me, I love the nostalgia, the design, and the fascination of a machine that may be over 150 years old that works perfectly today. Value is not important to me. Hobbies for profit? For some but not for me.

Be prepared to walk away

I have walked away from more than a few clocks over the past 10 years. Sometimes you have to let it go. Whether it is the price of a clock on an auction site that has risen beyond what I am prepared to pay or a clock offered as rare when it is, in fact, quite common.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
E Ingraham Huron shelf clock made between 1878-1880

Some would have been perfect to have in my collection but they were priced just a little too high for my tastes. Others had too many things wrong and had suspicious repairs or parts missing that would have been impossible to source.

Just when I say, darn I missed that one, a better clock comes along.

Meeting like-minded people opens up a new world

As clock collectors and repairers we are a strange lot. Some of my clock colleagues are quite eccentric. Most are introverts and although they keep to themselves have no trouble sharing with like-minded people. One of the most fascinating things about this hobby is the people and their passion for mechanical clocks.

Final thoughts

These are some of my reflections over the past 10 years. I have learned a lot, met many fascinating people, acquired some very interesting clocks and look forward to more adventurers in the world of clock collecting and repair.

The count wheel is on backward – oops

Sessions Beveled No. 2 case

Those of you who work on mechanical clocks regularly must have run into this situation at least once. Everything went perfectly until the very end.

Sessions time and strike movements are very common and I have worked on quite a few over the years. They are reasonably well constructed with the exception of a well-documented poorly designed click.

Worn click on a Sessions movement

The other day I was working on a movement that I had originally serviced 5 1/2 years ago. Back in 2016, I installed 10 bushings, quite a number for any clock but it was very worn. It has run exceptionally well since then but now it was time for an inspection, cleaning, oiling, and correcting any possible issues.

Sessions movement in a wall clock

I took the movement apart, cleaned the plates, wheels, and levers in my ultrasonic cleaner (which I did not have back in 2016), and reassembled the movement. As expected the movement is much shinier than before and looks like it came off the factory floor.

During my inspection, I found minor wear but the only location where a bushing was required was the second wheel backplate. I could have left it but it was worn enough to need a new bushing.

Backward count wheel

It’s back together and being tested. Okay, I had to open up the strike side to reposition the stop wheel to correct warning but that’s about it.

It now runs perfectly and a nice pat on the back for me but oh! oh! wait…..it is not quite perfect, because I don’t think three o’clock follows four.

Dang, the count wheel is on backward. Why didn’t I see that?

You probably expected me to express a few choice words but I looked at it and said, ha, that’s too funny!

5 minutes was all it required to put it right and now it sounds great. Four o’clock now follows three o’clock. Yes!

Sawin banjo clock – wood dial bezel fix

This banjo clock project has been an ongoing challenge for nearly a year, a very enjoyable one that has taught me so much.

The movement has been serviced, 4 new bushings installed, the case has been cleaned, veneer issues addressed on the two bottom corners, a new post was made for the final, dial glass has been replaced, the hands rubbed down with steel wool to remove rust, the bottom section of the rails on both sides re-glued, some flat-head screws replaced (with smaller flat-head screws taken from old cases) and the old brass cable was removed and replaced. The dial was left untouched.

There is a simplicity about the case design that I really like.

Veneer missing on two bottom corners

The old and tired suspension spring should be replaced. I cannot source the spring alone but I am reluctant to pay for an entire pendulum assembly. It has been straightened and it works well for now.

The last step is addressing the crack in the wood dial bezel.

Cracked bezel

The age crack is just above the number eleven on the dial. It was likely cracked long before I bought it.

Hot hide glue was used to close the gap but the repair did not work. The hot hide glue has a low bonding strength and it separated after just a few weeks (a dry house in the winter does not help).

I had difficulty closing the gap with string and ecstatic bands so, I purchased a band clamp designed for furniture repair, so let’s see how that goes.

Clock sans dial bezel

A band clamp might just be the ticket but there is always the risk of the bezel splitting again, perhaps not in the same place. Option two, which I prefer not to exercise at this time, is to fill in the crack and simply live with a slightly larger bezel that may not fit the dial door catch exactly.

There were many choices on Amazon and I selected one of slightly better quality.

When the clamp arrived, rather than apply the glue immediately I clamped it unglued for about a week theorizing that memory in the wood would be retained when glued. Yep, just a theory! In addition, if it were to crack in a different place that would have been the time it would happen.

Since hot hide glue was simply not strong enough I used glue with a much higher bonding strength, Gorilla glue, because it will hold. Perhaps hide glue with a higher bonding strength might have worked but I just don’t have that on hand. I am usually a stickler for authentic methods but sometimes a more modern glue is the only option.

Wolfcraft band clamp

Wax paper is used to prevent any residual glue from sticking to the band and the surface the bezel rests on. The curing time is 24 to 36 hours, the reason for the sticky note. It cured for almost 48 hours. Enough time I would think.

Two large flat-head slotted screws for the hinge hold the wood bezel in place and on went the bezel.

Completed project

And the result after 10 months of working in stages, is a complete and functional banjo clock that, in my view, looks absolutely stunning.

Several clocks bought at auction this spring

I am an avid collector of antique and vintage clocks which means I cruise the online auction sites regularly, about once or twice a week. This spring I checked out offerings from a local online auction site that deals with estate items, placed bids on 4 clocks (actually 5 since one lot had two clocks). The one I did not win was a 6 column Sessions mantel clock but no real loss there.

I won the bids on four clocks. CDN110 was the total though with buyers’ premium and taxes the price jumped to CDN147, still not bad for a small collection of antique clocks.

I do not have these clocks as of this writing since they are sitting at the auction house but I think can make a preliminary judgment based on what I see in the auction photos.

Although I am normally not in the business of selling clocks I will sell the odd one to keep my collection manageable. The plan is to fix these clocks and sell them to offset clock equipment purchases most notably an Adams Brown Timetrax 185, an electric clock timer, an amplifier that measures the rate of mechanical clocks by sensing escapement action and mechanical sounds of the escapement which I recently purchased. Here they are.

Unknown cottage clock

In no particular order of importance let’s start with an octagon cottage clock from the 1870s or 80s. It is a 30-hour clock judging from the placement of the winding points.

With pendulum and key

From the style of the pendulum bob and the case itself, I would say an E. Ingraham & Co. time and strike cottage clock. Some would have come with an alarm. This one does not.

Side view

It is in fair shape. The dial appears to have serious losses and there are nicks and scratches over a good portion of the case from what I see in the photos. I wonder if the tablet is a replacement and the original reverse painted?

It is difficult to tell with the harsh auction light but the case might be made of rosewood.

Decorative pendulum

It will be a good candidate for a mild refresh and should look very nice when completed.

Sessions Grand Assortment #3

Next is a Sessions Grand Assortment #3. I have worked on one in the past. There are three models in the Grand Assortment series and despite the fact that it is a lowly gingerbread clock and thousands of similarly styled clocks were sold by every major American clock manufacturer, this model is surprisingly collectible.

It is an 8-day clock with a steam-pressed oak case. The case looks very “aligorated” a term applied to a shellac finish that has coagulated as a result of being stored in a hot, humid environment such as an attic or a garage.

The dial is in poor condition

The tablet looks good but the dial is very degraded. This is a paper-on-metal dial and when the metal below the paper rusts the stain bleeds through to the front. This is called “foxing”. These stains are very difficult to remove and cost-prohibitive for most clocks. This is a cheap clock and a dial replacement is the only option and as such, I am not sure what to do about it.

A note is attached to the key and it says 1903. It is doubtful it was actually made in that year and I am sure the previous owner went by the year Sessions Clock Co. acquired clock-maker E.N. Welch Co. though the clock is certainly from around that period.

With a note from the previous owner

Reconditioning the case might be a challenge. Is it a candidate for stripping down to the bare wood? I suspect it is but we’ll see. I also see a small crack just above the top of the dial, so it might have been broken off at one point and re-glued.

I am not sure about the pendulum bob which does not look quite right for this clock. More research should provide me with the answer.

E Ingraham Ocean and Ansonia kitchen/parlour clock

Next is a two-for-one deal.

A duo of clocks

The one on the left is an E. Ingraham steam-pressed 8-day gingerbread possibly from the Ocean series. Unfortunately, it is missing its decorative tablet and that will certainly affect its resale value.

The pendulum looks right for the clock and the case itself looks to be in decent shape but as I said, it is very unfortunate that the tablet is missing.

Pieces of a clock

The pieces at the foot of the gingerbread clock belong to the clock on the right. Usually, when I see pieces like this it tells me that it was handled roughly by the auction house.

What I like about this clock is its timeless design, almost Art Deco but made long before the Art Deco period.

So who is the maker of the clock on the right?

Unknown parlour clock

The auction description simply says, “unknown clock”. I believe it is an Ansonia 30-hour (position of the winding arbours) kitchen clock in Walnut from about the early 1880s. The tablet is bright and vivid, not a design I have seen before but likely original. Attaching the top pieces should be a fairly simple process and thorough cleaning of the clock case clock and movement should make it an ideal candidate for resale.

Of the four, two are 30-hour clocks. I have found that 30-hour clocks are a tough sell. Most casual collectors are looking for an 8-day clock since 1-day clocks are a hassle to wind but I think I can make both presentable enough to attract some buyers.

The auction notes do not say whether any of these are in working order. They are all “untested” which is typical auction-speak for “they may or may not work – the risk is yours!”.

American clocks are very tough and often work well despite being very worn. I suspect with a little encouragement I can get all of these clocks working again.

Now, to pick them up from the auction house.

Check for upcoming articles on each of these clocks.

Tick Talk Tuesday #38 – Swigart replacement dial

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

GB writes:

Yesterday I pick up another strange clock and the dial has a monogram/mark: EJS, after searching it turns out to stand for E. J. Swigart but that company, from what I read, didn’t make clocks, just replacement parts so am I to assume the clock, images below, has a replacement dial/face? Does it diminish its esthetic value? I was told it is 1840 ogee. Miraculously enough it works!

Ogee clock
Swigart replacement dial

My reply:

You are correct. E. J. Swigart made parts for jewelers and watchmakers but they are best known for their replacement dials. Their logo is often confused with the Sessions Clock Co. or Seth Thomas. Swigart are respected for their dials and their commitment to making them as original as possible. They operated into the 1970s (the trademark was registered in 1896). I don’t believe it would diminish the value of your clock, after all, the replacement dial might be over 100 years old!

GB writes back;

Splendid! Thank you again. Your help and advice are priceless. 

Sawin banjo clock – almost done, 3 more items to address

I have written about this clock several times in the past 10 months but I am making good progress which I will detail in this article.

This is how it arrived at my house last spring, dull and lifeless but with good bones and most everything original.

Dirty and dusty and ready for restoration

First, some background information about the clock.

This federal-style banjo clock was made in the 1840s perhaps as early as 1840. I am reasonably certain it was made by John Sawin of Boston, by either himself or one of his apprentices or associates.

The movement and case construction bears a strong resemblance to a Willard timepiece and there is a good reason for this as John Sawin apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and makers of the original patent timepiece.

The movement which is based on the patent timepiece by S. Willard

Unfortunately, there are no identifying markings on the movement or the case but key indicators such as the placement of the movement mounting “ears” and the design of the door and bezel catches tell me that there is a very strong connection to John Sawin, enough to say that he is the clockmaker.

So far…

I have completed repairs on the case aside from the wood bezel mentioned later in this post. The repairs include new veneer pieces, harvested from an old mahogany ogee clock, a new post for the acorn finial, and two applications of traditionally prepared shellac.

The hands are attached to measure timekeeping

The movement has been cleaned, serviced and wear issues addressed.

The glass dial was broken and new flat glass was ordered and installed. The old weight cable was replaced.

The dial, with some stains and discoloring, will be left as-is.

Three issues that have slowed me down

The three issues are a weight cable that is too short, a twisted suspension spring, and a cracked wood bezel.

Weight cable that is too short: The clock stops when the weight is three inches from the bottom of the case and runs six days instead of the usual eight. I have run the clock several times and the clock consistently stops on the 6th day. I believe that the brass cable was frayed from wear and a previous owner shortened the cable rather than buy a new one. I have various sizes of cable and have chosen a slightly thicker brass cable with a nylon core. The nylon core prevents the cable from snarling and coiling plus the more robust cable is more than enough to carry the heavy iron weight.

However, a thicker cable results in a double layer. The cord will wind down from the top layer and the diameter of the drum has been increased due to the first layer. This means that with each turn more length of the cord will be removed from the top layer. Thus, the weight will reach the bottom of the case sooner than intended, reducing the runtime. A thicker cord makes it even worse. I believe I have struck the correct balance between thickness and length as the clock now runs its full 8-day cycle. Had the cable been any thicker the runtime would increase.

Since it had to be taken apart to install the new cable I cleaned the pivots, pegged out the pivot holes, and re-oiled the movement. Problem solved.

The Keystone

Twisted suspension spring: The keystone is the piece between the suspension spring and the pendulum leader. It very nearly hits the large wheel of the motion works on the left side as a result of a twist in the suspension spring. A bent spring is a consequence of leaving the pendulum assembly on the movement during transport.

A weight driven banjo clock must be partially disassembled when transporting and damage could result if the steps are ignored.

Unfortunately, I cannot source the suspension spring as a separate item and must purchase either the keystone and suspension spring together from an American supplier or the entire spring, leader, and stake for about $55.00 from a Canadian supplier. It does not make much sense but in the meantime, I have managed to straighten the suspension spring and it is functioning better than it was. Problem partially solved.

Cracked wood bezel: The crack is just above the number eleven on the dial. It was cracked initially and I used hide glue to close the gap. I now realize that hot hide glue I am using has a low bonding strength because it separated after a few weeks (a dry house in the winter does not help).

Cracked bezel

I have ordered a band clamp designed for furniture repair and will use stronger glue. However, I run the risk of the bezel splitting again and perhaps not in the same place. Another option is to fill it and simply live with a slightly larger bezel that may not fit the dial catch exactly. Problem not solved, yet.

There are three iron pin hooks that hold the dial in place. The hooks are twisted inward to secure the dial.

In the meantime, it is keeping perfect time.

Clock face is installed, missing is the wood door dial bezel

I am in no hurry for this clock. It is worth moving slowly with the repairs and ensuring that everything is completed correctly.

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