Tag: clocks

Tick Talk Tuesday #10 – Do I have an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock?

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

DP writes, “Hello Ron: I have a clock I bought recently at an auction.The clock is from Pictou County Nova Scotia. It has Canadian Time On the glass. I live about 50 kms from Truro. I would like to take the clock over to you and find out if it is a Pequegnat clock. The clock keeps good time. It is made out of birds eye maple. It measures 29 inches high, 15.5 inches wide and 5 inches deep. My technology skills are not very good and I am not able to send you a picture. My name is DP and I would be pleased to hear from you.”

Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock

My response to DP

“Yes you are pretty close to where I am. We can meet but you can also save yourself some trouble by doing a little investigating yourself. Regarding the dimensions, are you measuring the whole clock from top to bottom. The Canadian Time is 36 inches high by 15.5 by 5 inches deep. If the entire height of yours is 29 inches you are likely missing the top piece (crown) and the bottom section or both. Most were made of quarter sawn oak. I have never seen one in Bird’s Eye maple. And the words “Canadian Time are stenciled in gold on the glass door.

Next, on the bottom part of the dial face you should find the inscription, “Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company”. If not, it is a replacement dial.

Company name under the chapter ring
Company name under the chapter ring

If you are adventurous enough, you can unscrew the minute hand nut, take off the minute hand and pull off the hour hand underneath which is a friction fit. Next, you can unscrew the square wood panel the dial pan is mounted on. There should be 3 screws, one on top and one on either side. Once you unscrew those you can take the piece that holds the dial pan out. You can then check to see if the company name is stamped on the lower right hand side of the movement. Obviously if it says Arthur Pequegnat, that is what you have. I have included photos showing what you should see when you open it up.

Movement after taking off the dial pan.
Movement after taking off the dial pan.
Company name stamped on the movement
Company name stamped on the movement

Let me know how you make out.”

DP writes back.

“Hello Ron, I am not really comfortable taking the clock apart. I did take it over to DG in BH about a week or two ago. He repairs watches and clocks. He did a repair to a thin strip or band of metal (punched a new hole through it) and then reconnected it to the movement. DP is referring to the suspension spring. When it was apart the only thing I could see written on the movement was (no jewel and I think not adjustable or unadjustable). It looks like the movement might have been replaced because there are two extra holes on the back. The dial face has been put back in place incorrectly and has nothing printed on the face. I would like to take the clock to you and just get your views and opinions on where or who might have it or any other information you can give me. I would be pleased to hear from you.”

DP, “An Arthur Pequegnat movement would never have “no jewels” or “non-adjustable”on the movement. The company name would clearly be there. What you have is what some collectors would term to be a “marriage”, that is a case with another, more modern movement. If your case is 29 inches high then something is clearly missing. If you still want me to look at it, I will. Give me a call at (phone) and we’ll meet.

Folk art version of Canadian Time_4
Folk art version of Canadian Time

DP arrived with the clock that he won at a local auction for CDN$25. Underneath the folk art and all the modifications is, indeed, a Canadian Time Clock. What appears to be maple finish is painted Birds Eye maple; underneath is oak. The base and crown are missing; the dial is a replacement and whoever replaced it mounted the dial in the wrong position. The decals are on the outside of the glass and were added later probably the same time as the Birds eye maple finish. The pendulum bob, painted some sort of brass or gold colour, is original but the pendulum rod is a replacement with a home-made leader hook. The only thing in good shape and original is the Canadian Time reverse decal.

Attaching the pendulum
DP attaches the pendulum

The movement is a replacement, an Indian made reproduction time-only movement exactly like this one at Timesavers.

Found on the back of the dial pan is this inscription.

Inscription on folk art clock
Inscription on folk art clock

REPAIRED SEPT 18, 2013

REPAIRS BY JAMES xxxxxx

12C PLEASANT ST STELLERTON NS

CLOCK AND xxxxxx CLOCKMAKER SINCE 1956

 

In short, it is a very modern interpretation of a classic clock. If it were my clock I would not do a thing to return it to its original condition; there are just too much things that would need to be addressed. However, it might be appealing to some people as a piece of folk art. As a piece of folk art DP should be pleased that he got a good deal.

Clocks at the summer cottage

Forestville on display in kitchen

We have a seasonal cottage that is used primarily in the summer and at times during Thanksgiving in October. While I have a number of clocks at my residence in Nova Scotia the cottage is a great place for displaying a small selection of my clocks.

Our first clock at the cottage was a Danial Dakota time and strike that we had converted to a quartz movement. The clock is from the 1960s and reflected Chinese design elements copied from American clocks at the time. It requires very little maintenance and is as accurate as one would expect. It requires a “C” cell battery to operate. It is a chiming clock with Westminster and Whittington chimes and my wife and I much prefer the Whittington chime. I still have the original mechanical movement and may someday use it in another case.

Converted from a mechanical clock

The clocks do not run during the winter but oiling once per year addresses the issue of dried pivot holes

Last summer (2016) we were travelling through an Ontario town of Halliburton and stopped by an antique shop. The owner brought in a number of clocks from Ireland, all British made. They were in very good condition though some were a bit on the pricey side. My eye was drawn to this simple but attractive Smiths Enfield time and strike Art Deco style clock. It has a chromed square bezel and Roman Numerals on a slivered background. The ornate brass coloured hands compliment the square dial face. The squared off dark oak case with half height side shoulders is in excellent condition. I placed this clock on a shelf between our kitchen and family room.

Smiths Enfield time and strike, circa, 1950
Smiths Enfield time and strike, circa, 1950

Our kitchen has  a Delft style, triangle shaped front-wind 8-day time-only porcelain clock with a lever escapement similar to those found in marine movements. It is an estate auction purchase. On the dial is the name Forestville. The Forestville Clock Company of Toronto operated from 1928 to the late 1970s. Though wholly Canadian owned the company had cases made in its early days (from Kitchener, Ontario) but later imported cases and movements from Germany then France and England during the War years and Germany again, after the Second World War. The clock has a Dutch motif which reflected a popular trend in the 1950s and 1960s but also recognized Canada’s close relationship with the Dutch people since the war years.

Delft Clock from Forestville
Delft Clock from Forestville

The clocks do not run during the winter but oiling once per year addresses the issue of dried pivot holes. We also take the battery out of the quartz clock.

There is nothing like the sound of mechanical clocks at the cottage particularly on a cold, quiet night when the only other sound is the melancholic cry of the whippoorwill.

 

Tick Talk Tuesday #11 – clocks of Cuba

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s) and of course, general comments. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

On my trip to Cuba in March of 2016 I happen to capture a number of interesting clocks. The two pictured below prompted a comment from JC.

wall clock
Wm Gilbert clock found in a restarant
Floor clock
Malaprade Floor clock

The first two clocks are the most interesting to me. The Gilbert looks fairly standard (often called a “Store Regulator”) but I think it’s been painted black. Normally these are in oak cases, occasionally (but rarely) in walnut. The colour would have matched the interior back.

The second clock looks like a fine and expensive Jeweler’s Pinwheel Regulator. I’m wondering if you’re wrong about it being spring driven. These are normally always weight driven. The weight normally hangs behind the pendulum. Is it possible you didn’t see the weight? The movements from these are almost always Swiss made (near the Jura region of France), with pinwheel escapements. They are VERY EXPENSIVE clocks. The movement alone would fetch around 1000$. I have no idea what that circle is on the dial. I’ve seen some with inlaid marble dials, but most have enameled dials like this one. Cases can range from plain to extremely elaborate, and from 5 feet to 9-10 feet.

The name and place on the dial is the retailer where the clock was sold. It is never the manufacturer (this is typical on all French and some Swiss clocks of this type/vintage – the same is true of Comtoise clocks and French mantle clocks).

The rest of the clocks (with the exception of the 2 figure 8 wall clocks) seem to be imported German clocks from 1930 and later. These include both tall clocks and all the 400 day clocks shown. The figure 8 clocks are either American or Asian made copies (likely from Japan) from the early 1900s.

Would you like to profile your antique or vintage clock?

one-weight Vienna wall clock

Would you like to tell the world about your special clock?

Would you like to tell the world about your special clock? Is it a clock you have had for years or was it handed down to you or you did you win it an an auction or find it in a dark corner of an antique store?

Is it a favorite clock you would like to see profiled on this blog? It could be one of the clocks in my collection or it could be one of your own (or several that you own). If you would like to profile your own clock(s) send me as many photos as you can (1 meg each is fine) but include shots of the movement as well. If I use your photos I have your permission to post them. If you are using photos that someone else took  (Google or eBay for example) it becomes more problematic from a copyright perspective.

Circa 1890 French Black Marble mantel clock
Circa 1890 French Black Marble time and strike desk clock

I will keep your name and location private

Provide me with a history of the clock and/or some interesting details that I could include in the blog article and let me know if you want your name included. If not I can assign an identifier, the first and last letters of your name and of course I will keep your location private.

Send me an email with pictures.

ronjoiner@gmail.com

 

 

More fascinating terms – the language of clocks

French clock pendulum

Regular reader and contributor JC suggested a few more clock terms I thought readers and fellow horologists might find interesting.

My source for this article is the Watch and Clock Encyclopedia by Donald de Clarke, published by Bonanza Books (1984) which is still available on Amazon.

Gridiron pendulum: A pendulum consisting of alternating steels and brass rods coupled together to compensate for downward expansion so that the centre of oscillation of the pendulum remains consistent with changes in temperature, invented by John Harrison in 1725.

final look
Gridiron pendulum on a Junghans Crispi wall clock

Broaches: To broach is to open and enlarge a hole. A Broach is a steel cutting or smoothing tool with a tapered or parallel sided edge used to cut or “finish” holes in a clock plate. Used to enlarge and then finish (smooth) a newly installed bushing on a clock plate.

Swiss made smoothing broaches
A set of Swiss made smoothing (or finishing) broaches

Motion Works: The train or wheels of a clock directly connected with the hour and minute hand.

Great wheel: The teeth that form part of the barrel of the going barrel. It is also the wheel to which the mainspring is attached.

The motion works of a clock; the largest wheel on this movement is the great wheel (Pequegnat Clock Co.)

Maintaining Power: A method to maintain the driving power while the weight is being lifted or mainspring with fusee is being wound. In effect keeping the mechanism going while winding.

Weight driven movement with maintaining power
Weight driven movement with maintaining power, (unmarked Vienna Regulator)

Huygens Endless Rope Drive: It is a method of providing maintaining power to drive the clock while the weight was being raised. The endless cord passes over pulley A which is attached to the great wheel and supports the driving weight B, it then passes over pulley C which has a ratchet to support small weight D. As cord E is pulled down to wind the clock ratchet C turns under it’s click to raise weight B which continues to drive the clock as it supplies torque to wheel A. This ingenious system is found in some 18th century long-case clocks.

Huygens endless rope
Huygens endless rope

Locking Wheel (or Count Wheel): A count wheel is the wheel that determines the number of blows to be struck in striking mechanisms.

The left wheel with notches is the count wheel

Ratchet wheel: A toothed wheel into which a click engages permitting the wheel to revolve in one direction only.

Click replaced
Toothed ratchet wheel and click

Cam: Usually a disk so that upon revolving it transmits movement to or exerts pressure upon a connecting unit.

Arrow showing location of a cam
Arrow showing location of a cam, the fly is located in the upper right

Fly: Often called the governor or controller of a chime or strike train. It is the last piece in a train of wheels.

The language of the clock world always amazes me. There are a plethora of other clock terms that I will be happy to explore in future blogs.

Mauthe box clock – Sold by Eatons under the Solar name or a Forestville?

Dial face with abraded numerals

German box clocks are quite common. Prices for these clocks are all over the map, some ask hundreds of dollars but they can be had for very little money like this Mauthe box clock I picked up in a flea market outside Peterborough Ontario. The hands were faded and the case was in rough shape but I knew it was a good deal.

Mauthe box clock
Mauthe box clock, as found

Thousands of German “box clocks” were made in the first third of the 20th century and even to the middle of the century. The box clock replaced the classic “Vienna Regulator” after the First World War and reflected a minimalist approach to clock design. Most, if not all, were made in Germany. Despite the absence of markings, I have no doubt that this clock was made in Germany by Mauthe.

This vintage clock is 29 inches long by 13 inches wide and 7 inches deep. It has a 7-inch silvered Arabic dial with a spade hour hand and speared minute hand. The lower section of the case door has 5 beveled glass panels (middle one is arched) with brass connecting strips. There are two fluted columns that frame either side of the door and circular glazed viewing panels on each side. The movement is mounted and secured by thumbscrews on a seat board. The clock case is in fair to good condition with no gouges, deep scratches or missing pieces. Refinishing at some point in its life combined with environment factors has resulted in a darker walnut shade. The case is made of cheaper pine rather than the more expensive oak found in higher end box clocks.

The door has its original glass, catches, hinges and swings very easily. There are no case stabilizers (stand-offs) which I found curious given the height and weight of the clock. It has a rod gong twist locking feature about one third up from the longest rod to secure the rods during transport. Rods are brittle and can easily snap off if unsecured when moving the clock.

Rod twist lock
Rod twist lock to secure the rods during transport

I would comfortably date the clock to the 1930s

The dial face has been “messed with” in some fashion. I suspect someone tried to clean the face with an abrasive cleaner as there are scratches on the numerals. The numbers were touched up with flat black acrylic metal paint. Evidence that it was distributed by a Canadian clock company is a maple leaf applique on the crown.

Maple leaf applique and Divina gong
Maple leaf applique and Divina gong

The five-point maple leaf is a common symbol for Canada. There are two possibilities. It might have been sold by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto or Eaton’s department store under the Solar (Soler?) brand name. I would date the clock to the 1930s.

The price was right so I bought it

The rack and snail, time and strike, spring powered movement with recoil escapement has no markings but for the numbers 42 (pendulum length in cm) and 105 (beats per minute), the letters C,A, with numbers, 79/9 engraved in the lower right of the front plate, presumably a clock-makers mark for servicing in September of 1979 and a serial number, 25226. The back plate is solid brass while the front plate is open. It also has a repeater function on the strike side.

Mauthe movement front plate
Mauthe movement front plate

This is an antique mall find and the seller left a note saying that the clock required servicing (code for not running). While on the wall in the store the clock ran for a few seconds and then stopped. So, yes, it needs servicing. The price was right so I bought it.

Mauthe movement back plate
Mauthe movement back plate

I took the movement out of its case, inspected it and found it very clean. I looked for any obvious signs of wear or damage such as bent arbors or broken teeth and found nothing. The pivots holes were dry though absent of the tale-tell signs of thick black or green oil indicating wear. The mainsprings were wound tight as I would have expected. I oiled the movement, ran it outside the case for a few hours, returned it to its case, re-positioned the 3 strike hammers for the rod gongs and it ran strong, striking as it should on the hour and half hour.

The 3-rod “Divina gong” was, according to the standard German reference, Hans-Heinrich Schmid’s (2005) Lexikon der Deutschen Uhrenindustrie 1850-1980, a Mauthe trade-name registered in 1912. I compared the movement to similar Mauthe movements online and but for minor details it is the same. The case design is plain and free of decoration and is quite unremarkable save for the aforementioned beveled glass panels.

Divina rod gong
Divina rod gong, patented by Mauthe in 1912

I refreshed the case by first giving it a good cleaning with Murphy’s Soap. The cleaning revealed some light and dark patches so I opted to give the case a light coat of walnut stain followed by Poly Wipe Satin clear coat.

Box clock after case refresh
Box clock after case cleaning and refresh

There is not much I could do with the unsightly black smudges on the dial without lifting the silvering so I left that untouched but it still retains that vintage look.

Repainted numerals
Repainted numerals and hands

There were a number of unsightly black marks on the pendulum bob that I cleaned up using Brasso. Brasso was also used to clean up the brass bezel. The beveled glass and the brass strips were cleaned as well.

The Divina rod gong bim-bam strike has an especially pleasing resonance that echos through the house.

For a 50CDN investment the result after a refresh, is remarkable. It shows very well and it is a welcome addition to my growing clock collection.

Tick talk Tuesday #8 – Mauthe mantel clocks

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

From JG.

“Hi, Ron ! I’m a clock lover (and small time collector) based in Gurgaon, just outside the capital city of New Delhi, India. My surname suggests that my ancestors were clock and watch sellers but the family lost it’s business due to a profligate great-grandfather, or so family lore says.

About four years ago I picked up a Mauthe wall clock with a quarterly self-correcting Westminster chime with an art deco exterior and it has given me trouble free service subsequently. Minor adjustments are needed to keep time, particularly since the climate in our part of India can get fiercely hot (usually dry heat but humid in monsoons) and bitterly cold in winter. A bit of tweaking on the pendulum bob keeps the clock going well. Like your mantel piece, the chime gets a bit sluggish after 5 days, so I need to wind it up twice a week.

The dial has the Mauthe trademark and name, but there’s another separate mark on the dial stating “Gani and Sons, Madras”. This firm still exists and they were formerly importers of quality watches and clocks into India. They still assemble German movement long-case clocks and install tower clocks to this day.

Last month, I picked up my second Mauthe from Zurich – again a Westminster quarterly chime wall clock – but this is a much larger clock. It travelled as checked-in luggage padded in bubble wrap and surrounded by clothes as further padding (I had no choice !), zipped into a rather large soft bag bought specially for the purpose – I couldnt find a hard bag large enough. Thankfully, it survived three flights and several baggage belts without any damage, and took up poisition immediately. It took about a week of pendulum adustments and now keeps great time.

This clock, too, has a Mauthe trademark, but it seems to be an older variant.

I am aware that Mauthe changed their trademark a few times (thrice ?) but I’m unable to gather accurate and authentic information on the years in which these were changed. I’d be able to date my clocks if could get get this, and I was wondering if you would be able to assist me in this.

I could email or “whatsapp” you pics of both these clocks and specifically the logos if you’re in a position to help.

For your information, some of the other clocks in my collection, some of which are heirlooms, are two Beaumonts (one is a mantel piece from around 1920, unfortunately this one has a crudely replaced dial and a new case, but retains the original movement, and the second is a wall clock, completely original, from 1915 or so); an Ansonia wall clock with a calendar (1905); another Ansonia (probably earlier than 1900) which stands on a low cabinet but can also be placed on a wall; a new grandfather cased in India and a couple of pocket watches.”

I was fascinated with JG and his family history as well as his appreciation for Mauthe clocks. He send me photos of his clocks with photos of trademarks. My reply.

“Not much success determining the trademark dates you are looking for but I wonder if you have tried http://www.antiqueclockspriceguide.com/identifytrademarks.php
There is also a forum (discussion board) connected with this site that might lead you to more information.

I posted on the http://mb.nawcc.org/forum.php discussion site but I gather there are not many Mauthe collectors however if anything comes up I will let you know.”

 

9 reasons why clock collecting and is a great hobby and why it might be a fit for you

Hobbies are a great way of finding comfort through stepping off the roller coaster of life

In this increasingly complex and chaotic world where many of us seek ways of exploring constructive activities & pastimes a hobby is one such escape. Hobbies are a great way of finding comfort, stepping off the roller coaster of life and rising to the surface after seeming to drown in life’s problems. A hobby allows one to disconnect briefly or longer from the social media universe that seems to consume us every day. Pursuing and maintaining a hobby, whether it is for casual leisure or serious pursuit, is a regular activity that should be done for pure enjoyment. It is healthy for mind, body and soul!

The more you know, the more you grow

There are 9 Reasons why clock collecting/repair hobby works for me and might even work for you.

  1. I meet people. This hobby requires that I come into contact with other people when I purchase clocks, have clocks repaired or ask for advice.

    rs-annapolis-royal-oct-16_21-42
    A clock repair shop in Nova Scotia
  2. Builds my self-esteem. Developing and maintaining a clock hobby is important because the small successes I have from day to day or week to week are enough to sustain me while other pressures are occurring in my life and it is the one solid thing to feel good about. It gives me renewed energy to tackle other challenges in life.
  3. Avoid boredom. I have zero scientific evidence of this but I really believe that boredom is responsible for a lot of society’s ills and destructive behaviours. How many people come home after a challenging work day to watch TV for hours on end when they could be doing something constructive and rewarding?
  4. My Hobby is a point of connection with other people. It gives me common ground with a small, select portion of the population, the people who collect, repair antique and vintage clocks, the people who share my passion. They are from all over the world. Every week I get inquiries from clock enthusiasts from all corners of the earth asking for advice on their particular clock.
  5. Clock collecting enriches my perspective. I remember an old adage: “The more you know, the more you grow”.  Any opportunity to learn something new, to be challenged anew, is great for character-building by seeing the world through refreshed eyes. Clock collecting and repair helps me differentiate myself from others and provides me with key examples of where I have overcome adversity or tackled a difficult situation and emerged on the other side.
  6. It keeps me stay youthful. Establishing and maintaining a hobby is a very healthy habit to form for later years. Hobbies are excellent for brain health especially if you are looking for something to stave off cognitive decline. The older you get the more trouble you will have struggling to fill your time with meaningful activities. Starting a hobby early in life pays dividends in the long run, much like an interest bearing investment.
  7. Clock collecting combines with other interests. Photography and traveling are two other interests in my life. Blog writing is another, of course. This hobby allows me to combine all of those interests and as a side benefit my wife, who is also my travel partner and clock locator, encourages me every day.
  8. My hobby makes me interesting. At a party, you can only talk about your occupation or your grandchild for so long before people’s eyes begin to glaze. But if I mention that I have a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion, a clock that hung in a railway station near where I live, a rare clock I bought for almost nothing, their ears perk up.
    final look
    Halifax Explosion clock, Junghans Crispi wall clock

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    Pictou rail station clock, Arthur Pequegnat, Canadian Time circa 1930
  9. A way to relieve stress. My hobby provides stress relief simply because it is an oasis from the rest of my life. You can immerse yourself in a totally different world when you are focused on getting that darned strike side to work correctly on a troublesome clock movement.
    Okay maybe clock collecting and repair is not a hobby for you but you can insert whatever hobby you wish to have or already have and I'll bet the 9 reasons above are pretty much on your list.

Ingraham Nordic Banjo Clock

Nautical motif
Ingraham Nordic Banjo Clock
Ingraham Nordic Banjo Clock

I did not have a banjo clock in my collection and my latest acquisition is certainly a banjo styled clock but not in the tradition of a true weight-driven American banjo clock which continues to allude me.

There is no scarcity of spring driven recoil escapement (lever escapement) banjo clocks. This particular clock has a balance wheel/hairspring escapement which Ingraham calls a “marine” movement.

Balance wheel/hairspring escapement
Balance wheel/hairspring movement

This is the Nordic, one of a series of small, hairspring banjos that Ingraham produced in the late 1920s and 1930s. The Nordic is one of three that Ingraham introduced during the aforementioned period, the others being the Norfolk and The Norway. In the mid 1920s it would have cost about $11.00.

Nordics come up occasionally on EBay and seem to be very desirable if in very good condition. Often the throat or bottom tablet is cracked or missing and the clock face is distressed in some fashion. This particular clock is in exceptional condition for its age and shows very well. It is both diminutive and attractive.

Marine movements were (and are) very accurate eight day lever movements which are key wound and key regulated. It is wound from the front unlike Gilberts and others that must be taken down from the wall to be wound. The movements are constructed with extra heavy brass plates, steel cut pinions, a double roller escapement and are made to last.

Reverse glass nautical scene
Reverse glass nautical scene

The case is described by Ingraham as having a “fine rubbed mahogany finish”. Fake done nicely!

These movements are not commonly found outside the confines of a case. They were also used in other Ingraham wall clocks. Tran Duy Ly’s book on Ingraham Banjo marine movement clocks shows them from the 1927 catalog.

Clock face showing silvered dial and press-fit hands
Clock face showing silvered dial and press-fit hands
Handsome Banjo Clock
A Handsome Ingraham Banjo Clock

Both the hour and the minute hand are “pressed-on” friction fit. It has solid brass side arms, brassed eagle and a circular finish silver-plated dial with a non-tarnish-able gilt sash. Framed glass panels with coloured ship scene and floral throat complete the look. It is 26 inches in length. It lacks a label which would normally be affixed to the back of the clock.

As the most inexpensive of  banjo clocks many homes could have one to avoid the higher cost (though higher quality) of a weight driven banjo clock.

 

Sessions Westminster A mantel clock Part III – re-assembly and cursing the chime drive

Mainspring servicing

Do you like the challenge of working on a mechanical clock? This one might have you ripping your hair out. These are not the best clocks to start on and can be a headache for the experienced clock-maker.

You will find Part I of this project here and Part II, here.

Refinishing the case
#1 Refinishing the case while movement is on the test bench

In August 2015 I wrote, “This a good project clock that is not for the inexperienced. As I gain more knowledge I will tackle this fascinating clock.” Well the time is now

With a little experience under my belt it time to tackle this vintage circa 1931 Sessions Westminster A chiming clock.

I had removed the movement from it’s case in 2015 to replace a bad click since the mainsprings can be easily removed without dis-assembly. The click holds the tension or power of the mainspring and is identified by a clicking sound when the key is turned on the winding arbour. Although I have not run the clock much since then the click is holding up well.

Six bushings on back plate
#2 Six bushings on back plate, 7 total (one not shown)

The movement required a total of 17 bushings. There was some movement of the pivots in the pallet arbour bushing holes, not enough to be overly concerning but they were addressed during servicing.

I was unable to pull the centre cam off because I do not have a puller which was unfortunate as the hole might have called for a bushing.

Centre shaft cam
#3 Centre shaft cam
Gathering pallet pins
#4 Gathering pallet pins, also showing two racks

I was also unable to pull the arbour for the gathering pallet pins. It also might have needed a bushing though luckily I was able to bush one end. I mentioned in Part II that parts that are pressure fit on any movement are frustrating when said parts cannot be removed without special tools. Fortunately I was able to hand pull other chiming/striking parts off this movement.

All parts in except the minute / hour canon
#5 All parts in except the minute / hour canon
Old and new brass spring
#6 Old spring on rack and new brass spring ready for the second rack.

There are two racks on this clock (see photo #4). One rack was missing it’s retaining spring.  I made a new one out of brass wire. The clock was not striking properly and this small, seemingly inconsequential part might be the reason.

It shows very well for a vintage 86 year old clock

Between re-assembling the movement and testing of the time side I had an opportunity to address the finish on the case. I used a wood stain to hide scuffs and nicks, applied 5 coats of Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly using 1500 grit emery cloth between coats to bring up the finish. Although not quite the deep luster of a clock coming out of the factory it shows very well for a vintage 86 year old clock. Purists might argue that I am using a modern finish on a classic clock but I don’t mind since the clock was found in a dusty old barn and cost me only $25.00.

Robert Croswell’s guide for the Sessions Westminster A clocks is excellent

The dial bezel was polished using Brasso.

Re-finished case
#7 Re-finished case

Five Days Later

The clock has been running for a few days and I am satisfied that the time side is functioning well. I can now proceed with the strike and chime side, following Robert Croswell’s excellent manual.

One Week Later

The time is running well and I am getting a full cycle (8 days+) however I am still having issues with the strike side. It manages the quarter hours as it should, 4 strikes on the quarter, 8 on the half, 12 on the three quarter and 16 on the top of the hour. However it is obvious (to me) that I do not have the hour strike sequence set up properly. Robert Croswell’s guide for the Sessions Westminster A clocks is excellent but I am having difficulty understanding how the racks, and there are two, and the snails, again two, are set up.

Stay tuned, I know I will solve this little annoyance eventually.

Tick-Talk Tuesday #7 – SP’s thoughts on dating a Kienzle Weltzeituhr clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Hitler's clock
Kienzle Weltzeituhr clock presented to Adolf Hitler in 1939

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

On display in an antique store in Quebec Canada
On display in an antique store in Quebec Canada

Weltzeituhr is German for “World clock”.

The first Kienzle World Time clock was presented to Adolf Hitler on his 50th birthday in 1939 by the government of Würthemberg. The classical design with the world map in the “Mercator” style (cylindrical map projection presented by Gerardus Mercator in 1569) and the moving narrow scale with the time in the denoted cities came from the Heinrich Johannes Möller hired at age 27 and Kienzle’s principle designer from 1931 til about 1970.

The original clock had a bulky “foot” or base (first photo) and was decorated with swastika patterns on the edge. After the war, the decoration was necessarily altered, the base became smaller but the general layout of the dial was preserved through all permutations of the clock, from the early mechanical versions to the electro-mechanical versions and finally the quartz movements in the 80s. A unique feature of this clock is that it shows Germany to be the centre of the world.

Time sequencer
24 hour time sequencer

SP writes, “One way to narrow down date of one of these clocks is to look at the names of the cities. For example, mine has Jakarta, Indonesia as ‘Batavia’ which was the name given by the Dutch who ruled until the Japanese took over in WWII. The name was officially changed Dec. 27, 1949.”

Side view of World Time Clock showing substantial brass surround

Your clock says ‘Germany’ and has ‘Djakarta’. It could have been made between 1942 and 1949

SP wrote further, “I got to thinking and I suspect that further sleuthing may be in order. If you go to the Wikipedia article on ‘Batavia’, you’ll see that the name was changed when the Japanese took over in 1942. It also says that the name change from ‘Batavia’ to ‘Djakarta’ was ‘internationally recognized’ on Dec. 27, 1949 so that there was a seven year period when it was called ‘Djakarta’ by part of the world and ‘Batavia’ by another (Keep in mind that the Germans, allies with Japan, would have been partial to seeing things the Japanese way). Then, at the ‘West Germany’ Wikipedia, I see that ‘West Germany’ was declared on May 23, 1949. Your clock says ‘Germany’ and has ‘Djakarta’. It could have been made between 1942 and 1949 if the names on the dial were determined by Kienzle in strict conformity with official names. Of course, whether or not they were strict in that way would be hard to pin down but it seems to me that an earlier date for your clock’s manufacture seems just as plausible as a later one. It does seem to me, however, that, if it was made in 1950 or later, it would very likely say ‘West Germany’ given the 7-month lead time and the earth-shaking importance of the name change at the time.

Is it a clock or a work of art? Both it would seem

I replied that the clock was likely not produced during the war years when many German plants turned their attention to the war effort. My clock was either made in 1942 or close to 1949.

Kienzle World Time clock
Kienzle World Time clock, circa 1942-49

SP wrote back some time later and shared this with me, “I was also thinking that the war years are unlikely for the same reason. I was just doing a little exercise in marking rough parameters. Another rough parameter: mine has no country of origin as in ‘Made in Germany’ or ‘Made in West Germany’ — perhaps an indicator that it was made for the domestic market. I came here originally to learn how to calibrate the ‘world time zone’ scale. Then I took the clock to my local clock maker to have it serviced and he explained that, on my model at least, you have to take the back cover off and manipulate the metal disk inside with your finger. I see that some clocks, including yours, have a little button or knob on the back half-way down from the center knob that controls the hands and I assume that it controls the time zone scale. Anyway, if you are a visitor to this site looking for the same information, now you have my report.”

Winding crank
Winding crank

On my clock the tiny knob controls both the hands and the zone scale. As I rotate the knob the zone advances incrementally.

I am certainly on the lookout for more Art Deco styled Heinrich Johannes Möller clocks to add to my collection and when I come across another I will be sure to write about it.

Thank you, SP, for sharing your knowledge and experiences concerning this wonderful clock.

So, it seems that my Kienzle was made between 1942 and 1949.

Is it a clock or a work of art? The latter I would submit. Thanks to Heinrich Johannes Möller and his ability to turn a timepiece into a true work of art.

Unsigned French mantel clock – pretty but I wish I knew more about it

Clock face showing the two winding arbours

I acquired this elegant antique French mantel/shelf clock online in March of 2017 and it is the only French clock in my collection. Not many come up on Nova Scotia online for-sale sites.

French mantel clock
French time and strike mantel clock

I felt somewhat guilty leaving the home of the man I bought it from because he told me that he was selling off his possessions to provide for his wife after his passing as he was in the final stages of a terminal illness.

Clock face showing the two winding arbours
Clock face showing the two winding arbours

The elderly gentleman said that the low price reflected the fact that the strike side was not functioning and it had been like that since shortly after the last servicing. When inserting the key in the strike side arbour I immediately noticed that the spring had tension but it would not click. It could be a simple fix.

There was nothing on the inside of the case that would tell me anything about the maker

It is a time and strike clock of French origin from the turn of the 20th Century. The clock is 11 inches high by 8 1/4 inches wide by 5 1/4 inches deep, jet black, either slate or Belgian marble with lighter reddish brown rectangular accents and serpentine scrolling. It is quite heavy! The dial has a brass centre cup with enamel surround, delicate hands and painted Arabic numerals.

It is in the Grecian architectural style popular during the late 19th century both here and in France. But for a large chip on the bottom right of the case and a smaller chip on on the bottom left it is in very good condition. Unfortunately chips on the corners of these old French marble clocks are quite common. The movement is an exquisitely crafted French time and strike mechanism with a pleasant sounding but subdued coiled gong. It is unsigned.

The only markings are the word Brocot on the speed adjustment gear and another marking on the back plate. This patented Brocot speed adjustment was invented by French clock maker and inventor Louis-Gabriel Brocot in the 1800s.

Brocot patented speed adjsutment
Brocot patented speed adjustment

Stamped on the rear plate is Marque Deposee which means registered trademark in French. EBay sellers often mistakenly refer to it as the maker’s stamp. Careful examination of the movement revealed that there was nothing on the inside of the case or the movement that would give me a clue about the maker. A mystery, but not surprising as many French clocks are similarly unsigned.

Time and strike movement
Time and strike movement

The previous owner advised that the clock had been serviced but I decided to take the movement out of it’s case to inspect it more closely, re-oil if necessary and determine why the strike side was not functioning. The movement is relatively simple to remove. To extract it from it’s case undo the two slotted screws (rear) that hold the straps and pull the movement out from the front.

Side view of movement
Side view of movement showing brass straps

A very nice acquisition though I keep thinking about that old fellow

I discovered that for whatever reason the click screw was very loose, and not engaging the ratchet. After screwing it down tightly the click engaged the ratchet as it should. I can only assume that during it’s last servicing the click screw was not tightened securely.

The strike side click was loose
The strike side click screw was very loose
Numbers on bob correspond with the movement
Numbers on bob correspond with those on the movement
pendulum bob with adjuster
Pendulum bob with rate adjustment screw

I re-oiled the movement, returned it to its case and wound both sides. There are two speed adjustments on the clock, one on the bob and a finer speed adjustment arbour just above the number 12 on the dial. At the moment the clock is running a little slow and will take weeks to regulate. A one-ended key came with the clock, the original would have been double-ended.

It is a very quiet ticker with a pleasant strike and perhaps the perfect clock for those who might be bothered by the sound of a mechanical clock in any room.

A very nice acquisition though I keep thinking about that old fellow.

 

Dugena mantel clock revisited

Sspriral spring for floating balance escapement

In a precious article I wrote about my frustrations getting this clock to run reliably. No matter what adjustments I made it ran poorly.

“You’ve got to be very careful if you don’t know where you are going, because you might not get there”, Yogi Berra

This time and strike movement (Hermle?) has been out of its case and lying in drawer for the past year or so. When I met the seller in a parking lot some time ago as I handed him $20 for this Dugena mantel clock he climbed into his car he said, “I hope you don’t expect much for $20; it’s not perfect”. Well, it’s not perfect.

It was keeping poor time, losing an hour or so a day but I thought, what a great clock to practice on and practice I did.

Oiling the movement had no effect. Issues? A weak spiral spring, a worn jewel on the floating balance, a power issue associated with a weak mainspring or perhaps pivot wear. I disassembled the movement several times and serviced the mainsprings. I had an issue re-hooking the strike side mainspring and so, discouraged, I put it aside.

Dugena time and strike German made mantel clock

Dugena – is it a clock company?

Dugena was a German retail clock name only, a marketing name, not a maker of movements or cases. Dugena was a registered cooperative society, a “Genossenschaft”, that bought clocks from other makers to sell them under their own brand. A brand name for a retail chain more or less.

Dugena floating balance
The clock runs slow, this bent spiral spring does not help

Floating balance clocks are much more accurate and above all, they do not have have the disadvantage of the pendulum; these clocks work even when the case is at an oblique angle

A great invention – the floating balance

The floating balance movement in this clock could have been made by anyone; Urgos, Jauch or Hermle perhaps. Hermle is likely since it was one of the leading companies using the floating balance escapement. The floating balance was invented in the 1930s but it took till 1941 for the patent application to be registered. It took another 10 years after that for the patent to be granted slowed by the war years and the challenges of industry recovery following the Second World War.

The floating balance was a great invention. Floating balance clocks are generally more accurate and above all, they do not have have the main disadvantage of the pendulum; they will work even when the clock case is at an oblique angle.

Time and strike movement, maker unknown

Back to the the clock

Months passed. I took the movement out, looked at the strike side barrel a second time, popped the barrel cap off and using pliers gave the inner part of the mainspring a turn and it hooked onto the catch. Success at last. The mainspring barrels can be removed without dis-assembly of the movement, so, in it went. Despite my minor triumph with the strike-side mainspring, straightening the spiral spring and adjusting the balance wheel to its fastest set point, the clock ran only marginally better. The only consolation is that although it runs 5 minutes slower per day it runs a full eight day cycle.

Despite the minor disappointment it has been a productive learning experience but I am inclined to put it aside as I have other projects on the go. Every time I think about the issues I am having with this clock it always comes back to the balance wheel.

Some day the solution will pop into my head.

 

Tick-Talk Tuesday #6 – comments on online purchases

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is all about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). If I am stumped, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

I wrote a blog article offering advice for online purchases which you can see here.

Summarizing my advice for online shoppers;

  • Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
  • Meeting the same day is crucial; you do not want the seller to get cold feet and you do not want someone coming before you to buy the clock.
  • Cash is the rule. No cheques!
  • If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
  • Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal
Unknown French clock
Unmarked French clock, Kijiji purchase

JC writes, “Very good advice overall. I have only one small issue: I think asking about dates (how old is it?) is kind of pointless. I’ve seen clock-makers who have been in business for decades (30+ years) who can’t even correctly date a clock to within 100 years. I’m thinking of a specific example of a well known clock-maker who was explaining a repair on a comtoise clock “from the early 1700s”. The clock was actually from around 1840. I find that this sort of mis-dating happens often, and even with so called experts. Another example I can give you is a Black Forest clock specialist who had a particular clock he was demonstrating in a video, also apparently also “early 1700s” with wooden wheels, but it had an original coiled gong strike inside. The earliest evidence of coiled spiral gongs only date back to as early as maybe 1820-1830. Before this they simply just didn’t exist yet. This was from an EXPERT collector. Someone who specializes in Black Forest clocks. Some of his clocks are worth 5 figures.

That said, I would not trust the word of any eBay, Craigslist, Kijiji, or even auction house seller.

As far as your little clock goes, I think it was an absolute STEAL! True, the strike side could potentially have major problems, but even as a timepiece, the marble is gorgeous. With the price of shipping these days, it was an especially nice find. I haven’t been too lucky finding clocks locally. I think I’ve only bought a small handful, and they tend to be anniversary clocks, and mass produced American clocks (gingerbreads and mantle clocks) with a few German Art Deco style clocks.

I’ve bought a *LOT* of my clocks online (eBay) and for 95% of them, I just went with photos. If the photos were not good enough, I’d pass. It has largely worked out for me, but I ALWAYS assume they will not work. There is only ONE clock that arrived in pristine working condition.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
Ansonia drop octagon
Ansonia drop octagon, Kijiji purchase

My response to JC . “A good point JC and one that I will consider. The answer I usually get when I ask about the age of the clock is how long the seller has had it. If they say they’ve had it for years or it was their mothers, uncles etc. I am naturally much more interested than someone who is just selling the clock for quick cash. I have acquired some great clocks that have been passed down through family (see photos on this blog). They are not without issues but sometimes the story is just as exciting as the clock itself.

I get most of my clocks from online local for-sale sites that I can pick up within an hour or two from where I live. I scour the sites everyday and will sometimes send out emails to sellers without seriously considering a purchase but occasionally their reply piques my interest. I have had one very bad experience with an EBay clock purchase so I try to stay away from them (not saying I wouldn’t in the future).

Read the article and tell me if you agree.

 

Servicing a Well Worn New Haven Schoolhouse Clock

Side view of movement indicating solder points

The clock is a “Canadian made” New Haven Octagonal short drop wall clock. It was assembled at The New Haven Clock Co. of Canada plant established at Brantford, Ontario (Canada) in 1906.

New Haven schoolhouse clock
New Haven schoolhouse clock

The New Haven Clock Company of Canada was a subsidiary of the New Haven Clock Company of America. Both mantel and wall clocks were made in the Brantford plant with Canadian wood cases, but the spring-driven pendulum movements were brought in from the U.S. The Canadian arm of the New Haven Clock Company closed in 1956. More information about The New Haven Clock Company can be found here. This clock was probably made in the 1940s.

The clock was removed from a schoolhouse in Saskatchewan, Alberta (Canada) in the 1960s. The previous owner said that he ran the clock for a couple of years, got tired of it and put it in storage. I hung it up on my kitchen wall for a couple of months and while it ran immediately and kept good time I considered putting off servicing with other projects on the go. However, if I ran it long enough without proper attention any wear would be exacerbated. Now is the time to service this clock.

Day One

The movement was mounted with what looked like the 4 original screws. I wondered if this movement had ever been serviced. Clues began to reveal themselves as I took the movement out for a closer inspection.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
New Haven movement #304

The centre cannon arbour was very loose which is not uncommon. A bushing might be required. The pivots were in good shape and had minimal wear but most bushing holes on both the time and the strike side, front and back plates were so enlarged that there was considerable lateral movement of the wheels in both trains but not enough to stop the clock. Not the worst I have seen but clearly a clock that is in dire need of servicing. The clock ran for many years and appeared to have received not much more than basic servicing during that time.

Day Two

The movement was very dirty. The cleaning solution in the ultrasonic cleaner was dark brown in colour and large pieces of crud floated on top, a build up of dried oil and dust over the years.

An obvious example of a previous repair was the drop lever that had been soldered in two places as you can see in the photo below.

Top view of movement indicating solder points
Top view of movement indicating solder points

The lever looks strong and should hold for years to come.

Strike side maintenance lever
Strike side maintenance / drop lever

I took special care to resist bending any parts of the lever to adjust it for fear of breaking it. The helper wire/spring on the drop lever also seemed to have been replaced at some point because it looked crudely made, not something you would see in a factory installed movement. A piece of the helper wire broke off during dis-assembly which meant that I had to make a new wire/spring.

I polished the pivots and then proceeded with the bushing work prior to cleaning the movement.

Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine

15 bushings were installed, 7 on the front plate and 8 on the rear plate. The centre cannon arbour required one bushing, a much larger one, on the rear plate.

To completely eliminate any issues with the time side I took all the strike train wheels out

Movement on test stand without strike side wheels
Movement on test stand without strike side wheels
Without strike side wheels
Without strike side wheels

Day Three to day Five

All went well while test fitting the wheels on both trains; they moved as smoothly as they should. I re-assembled the movement and attempted to align the levers on the strike side as best as I could with little success. I ran the movement on the test stand even though the drop lever was not positioned correctly. Unfortunately, the clock stopped every few hours. My suspicion was an incorrectly aligned lever somehow stopping the strike side.

To completely eliminate any issues with the time side I took all the strike train wheels out and ran the time side for 3 trouble-free days eliminating any issues with the motion works.

I  consulted Steven Conover’s excellent book on strike clock movements (Striking Clock Repair Guide) to work through a solution. He devotes one chapter to the New Haven movement and  clear instructions for setting up the strike side.

Day 6

After studying Steven’s manual, I reinstalled the strike side and proceeded with the necessary adjustments as follows.

The positioning of the levers are critical.

The 3 levers of the New Haven movement
The 3 levers of the New Haven movement

There are 3 levers in this clock. Knowing how the levers function is key to getting this clock to run. The hammer strike lever (Lever number 1) performs a very simple task and installs on the bottom of the clock and is activated by the hammer lifting pins on the cam wheel. The drop and paddle lever (Lever number 2) does several jobs in unison. It pushes the unlocking lever or the lift lever (Lever number 3) down to release the warning pin to prepare the strike. The top arm of the lever number 2 rotates through the 2 – 180 degree slots of the cam while the bottom arm forms the paddle that enters the deep slots of the count wheel to indicate the strike on both the hour and half hour. The upper arm of this lever must be on the upper rear part of the slot on the cam to work correctly. I found this through trial and error. Needless to say, the positioning of the levers are critical. Once the levers were positioned correctly, the clock ran beautifully.

Post assembly testing

The clock went through it’s full 8-day cycle without any issues striking as it should. The movement was mounted back into it’s case, is being regulated and is now on display in our living room.

This very ordinary clock reflects its utilitarian role as a schoolhouse clock; it is not the best looking or the best sounding clock in the world but like a faithful servant it should run without issues for years to come.

 

 

 

Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time – a service is long overdue

Clock face Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock
Hallway clock
Hallway clock – Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time

I wrote about this clock in 2015. The Canadian Time clock was made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock company of Kitchener, Ontario. The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors and often command high prices on online for-sale sites.

Former railway clock from a station in Pictou County, Nova Scotia
Former railway clock from a station in Pictou County, Nova Scotia (Canada)
Label on back board

The clock was made after 1917 in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada). Clocks made before 1917 had the word “Berlin” on the dial face. Kitchener was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 and the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the decision was made to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario. Though it is impossible to determine the exact year this clock was made my guess is just prior to 1941 before the company closed it’s doors.

It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement

The clock was purchased in Sept 2013 and after 3 1/2 years it is overdue for servicing.

Movement showing punch marks as indicated by arrows
Movement showing punch marks (arrows)

It is always disconcerting to open a clock up to discover punch marks on a movement, specifically around the pivot holes as one would expect. I am one of those who believe that a punch should never be used on a clock movement. Most, including myself, would consider it a quick and easy shortcut that is not designed to extent the life of the clock in any appreciable manner. Because punching weakens the side wall of the pivot hole those two pivot holes in particular are prime examples of the need for bushings. In total the clock required 5 bushings. The second wheel pivot hole was worn the most. One back plate bushing was required for the escape wheel arbour.

Time only movement
Time only movement

Time only movement are relatively simple to work on and for the novice this is the first kind of movement you should tackle. Whenever working on a clock be sure to take as many photos as you can; you will need them if you get stuck re-assembling the movement. On this clock the 3rd and 4th wheels look exactly the same but in fact differ slightly in height. Photos taken at the right angles will easily confirm the difference.

Mainspring cleaned and inspected
Mainspring cleaned and inspected

A strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock; additional screw holes

The mainspring is in excellent condition and might have been a replacement at some point in the clock’s life. I had some difficulty re-hooking the arbour to the spring and had to use pliers to bend it, but just a little.

I found one strange anomaly that I did not notice when I first bought the clock. There are additional screw holes in the back board leading me to believe that the clock might have had another type of Pequegnat movement which would mean that the current movement is a replacement. Possible reasons, a catastrophic failure of the original movement, a conversion from a time and strike movement to a time-only clock (requiring a new dial) – it is anyone’s guess. A mystery nonetheless.

Servicing this clock took less than a day. Testing takes a couple of weeks. With new bushings in place and an oiling this clock should run reliably for years to come.

I began keeping a detailed log of clock repairs noting, in particular, when the movement was last oiled so that I do not wait too long between inspection and oiling.

 

Tick-Talk Tuesday #5 – question about grandfather clock repair

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

DL writes. “I am trying to find out what my grandfather clock is worth. It is a Meekins, Packard and Wheat. It also needs a locking piece for the top portion. Somehow the insert is missing, so it can’t be locked on top, but the bottom is fine. I noticed you are far away, and I was wondering if you have any offices in the Massachusetts area or could you recommend someone? Thank you for your time.”

Grandfather clocks are often refereed to as tall clocks long case clocks and floor clocks
Grandfather clocks are often refereed to as tall clocks long case clocks and floor clocks (Ridgeway Hamilton Country)

My response to DL, “Hi and thanks for writing. As I understand it, Meekins, Packard and Wheat was a prominent department store in Springfield, Mass. During their hay days in the 1930s it had a well established branded furniture line which presumably included grandfather clocks. While it may say Meekins, Packard and Wheat on the clock case or dial, the cabinet and movement were likely made by someone else. It was a typical practice in those days to contract out clocks, furniture and the like to cabinetry and clock movement companies. It is possible that the part you are looking for is no longer made but a competent horologist may be able to fashion one for you. Another option is to contact Tmesavers, a clock supply house that sell parts for clocks. They may have a reasonable facsimile to the part you are looking for. You might try a clock repair service in Harvard MA called the Clock Medic which can be accessed here: http://www.theclockmedic.com/home.html There is contact information on their site. A quick phone call might get you closer to fixing or restoring your grandfather’s clock.

Many people do not realize that there are a number of well stocked clock supply houses not only in the US and Canada but Britain and elsewhere in the world.

 

 

 

Is my clock in beat?

Certainly runs better with the book under one side

You bought a clock. It ran when you first saw it but you bring it home, display it in that very spot you imagined and now it won’t run. 99% of the time this is caused by a clock not being in beat. All mechanical clocks must be set in beat before they will run properly.

Sessions time and strike

I make no attempt to explore the idiosyncrasies of various designs of clock movements. Much of the following information can be found at the forum site of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, NAWCC . At this site there are additional tips on adjusting the beat of 400 day clocks, weight driven Vienna style clocks and so on.

When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop

What does the term “beat” mean?

Make sure your clock is on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to it’s rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, ticktock…. or tocktick…… Put another way, there will be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop. It is worth repeating that a clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.

Gilbert calendar clock, the Admiral

There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.

The second way is to adjust the crutch to one side or the other, until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring.

Mantel clocks have rear access doors that allow you to adjust the crutch, however for wall clocks you will have to remove the hands (the minute hand is released by a screw or a pin, the hour hand simply pulls off) and the dial face, also attached by screws that come off to reveal the movement. However,minor adjustments to the beat of a wall clock can be preformed by simply moving the clock off-level. It may not be noticeable if the clock is not quite level.

There is no need to take the movement out of its case to perform this procedure.

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American New Haven time and strike movement taken out of its case

If the crutch is a simple rod or wire as in the photo, it is adjusted by bending it to one side or the other (left or right). The brass rod is quite pliable allowing you to re-adjust if necessary. Listen to the beat as you make the adjustments and when you have a steady tick-tock the clock is in beat.

There us nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of a ticking mechanical clock in a room.

If it attaches to the pallets with a friction joint, it is adjusted by holding the pallets still with one hand, and shifting (pushing) the crutch right or left on the friction joint. The adjustment may be very slight in either direction.

plate-clock-movement_6-labels
Time only German movement for a Blackforest shelf clock

You need only to do this once. Whether your clock is a wall clock, a mantel clock, time and strike, time-only or time, strike and chime, the principles are exactly the same. There is no need to take your clock to a professional to have it “fixed”. This is definitely a do-it-yourself procedure. It’s that simple!

There is nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of the rhythmic ticking of a mechanical clock in a room especially if it is in beat.

Tick-Talk Tuesday #4 – question about Sessions Westminster A clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

This is a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock made in Forestville Conn. The first year of production for this model was 1927. This particular clock was made in October of 1930 and features minor improvements to parts of the chime / strike train. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced this and 51 other models of mechanical clocks, ranging from Advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or regulator clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors.

Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem

JD writes. “I stumbled across your WordPress blog about your Sessions Westminster clock and thought I’d reach out as I’m in the process of finally getting mine running.  Everything seems to working very well with my clock except for the chimes which seem to have a rather peculiar problem.  The hourly chimes work great. Full Westminster, then the correct number of hour strikes.  The half hour chimes are also correct.  The problem is that the quarter hour & three-quarter chimes are reversed.  The quarter hour has 12 notes and the three-quarter hour has only 4. I haven’t even taken the movement out of it’s case yet, and at this point I’m just trying to figure out what the problem might be, and how complicated it may be to resolve it. This is one of about a dozen old clocks that my father had in his collection when he passed away, all of which I had been led to believe were non-functional.  I’ve got ten of them running and would like to get an idea what I’m up against with this peculiar problem. Thanks in advance for any insight you may be able to offer.”

Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931
Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931

Co-incidentally I have been working on the same clock. Mine also had issues with the strike and chime sequence. I received JDs letter prior to working on my Westminster A mantel clock so I could not advise him on his specific issue but hope to share my experience with him once I have completed work on it.

The Sessions Westminster A mantel clock was made in Forestville Connecticut, USA. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or “Regulator” clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Many of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors. Having a unique and innovative design, the Westminster A is particularly sought after.

Westminster mainspring

My reply was. ” Thanks for your letter JD. I have yet to tackle this clock and know that it is not a good clock for the novice clock repair person to work on. If you have the skill-sets to have worked on other clocks then you are prepared for this one. I have attached a detailed guide which will help you through the servicing of this clock. It was prepared by Robert Croswell a member of NAWCC. One thing I should mention. The clicks are very weak on this clock and click failures are common. I need not remind you that when clicks fail they may also take parts of a clock with them. If you decide to tear it apart, do yourself a favour and replace the clicks. I have a number of clocks that I have to service before I get to the Westminster A. Let me know how you are progressing with the clock and any insights you can pass along to me.”

Drum and hammers
Drum and hammers on a unique two train chiming clock

I attached Robert Croswell’s excellent manual called Taming the Sessions 2-Train clock.

JD wrote back, “Thank you very much for the reply, and especially for the very helpful guide.  I also asked the question on JustAnswer.com and received a helpful response from a clock repairer who said that the chime correction cam that is behind the locking plate needs to be rotated 180 degrees after it chimes the 12 notes, to the 3/4 hour position.  As I said, I haven’t even removed it from the case yet so I just wanted to get an idea how involved the repair might be before I take any action. Now I have an idea where to focus my attention, and I can at least remove it from the case and examine it to fully understand the working of the chiming mechanism. Not sure if I’m up to tearing it apart quite yet, especially since it is running well for the most part.  The resource you provided will no doubt prove very helpful to my learning process.  I’ll let you know if I manage to resolve the issue and of course, anything I learn along the way. Thanks again.”

I will be sharing my experience with JD once I have the clcok running as it should. I have assembled the clock and in the process of testing the time side. Although the racks and snails (there are 2) are reinstalled I have not yet managed to have the time properly aligned. Once I have determined that the going train will run it’s full cycle I will focus on adjustments to the strike and chime side racks and snails.

A great learning experience.

Ansonia Schoolhouse Clock – Part II – cleaning, bushing work and final testing

Bushing installed on escape wheel arbour

The Ansonia octagonal short drop wall clock was (is) commonly known as a schoolhouse clock. This clock was manufactured in 1912. The number “12” , the year stamp, is found on the lower front plate of the movement. The letter “N” is also stamped on the movement.

In this post, Part II, I will proceed with cleaning the movement and performing required bushing work in addition to assembling and final testing.

12 and N on the plate
12 and N on the plate

This is my one and only Ansonia clock. Since it is a fairly conventional time-only movement with an outboard escape wheel, it is fairly simple to work on and for those of you starting out, this is the first movement you should attempt.

Movement is running well and in beat
Movement in the case prior to disassembly

After applying a C-clamp to the mainspring to contain the spring’s power, I disassembled the movement, placed the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner, then cleaned and polished the pivots prior to the bushing work. The clock required six bushings, three on the front plate and three on the back. The worst was the third wheel, as you can see in this photo. This is not unexpected because of the constant power and stress produced by the mainspring, but it definitely indicates a very worn pivot hole.

Close-up of bushing wear
Close-up of bushing wear, the circle indicates where the pivot resides
Springs were inspected and cleaned
The mainspring was inspected and cleaned
Using a micrometer to check pivot
Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter
Bergeon Bushing Machine
Bergeon Bushing Machine, an indispensable tool for bushing work

The only challenge I had was dealing with the brass arm that supports the front plate pivot on the escape wheel (arrow). To install the bushing I had to stabilize the arm on the bushing machine without bending or breaking it, and using very light hammer strikes to seat the bushing.

Arrow indicating tricky bushing install
Arrow indicating tricky bushing install

The bushing went in nicely, as you can see in the next photo. Otherwise, the remaining bushing work went as expected.

Bushing install on escape wheel arbour
Bushing installed on escape wheel arbour
Testing in the case
Testing in the case

Although I have an excellent clock stand, I decided to test the movement in the case due to the acute mounting angle of the movement. I tossed out the old screw,s which did not appear to be original, and used new slotted brass screws to attach the dial pan and the hinge for the brass bezel. In the process of fumbling with the glazed bezel, I knocked off the brass catch that fits into a slot on the case front. An angled wood block fits into the notch on the catch when the bezel is closed. I got out my torch and, with some sanding, an application of flux, and sufficient solder, the catch operates as it should.

Brass catch repair
Brass catch repair

Since I serviced the movement, why not go one step further and refresh the brass? I gave all the brass a good cleaning with Brasso, bringing back its original luster. Someone messed with the clock face some time ago, which is unfortunate, but I have decided to leave it as-is. A new paper dial face would not look right.

Ansonia clock project is complete
Ansonia clock project is complete

A simple project that can be done in half a day, enough to extend the life of this handsome antique schoolhouse wall clock that will tick along for years to come.

 

Tick-Talk Tuesday #3 – question about Arthur Pequegnat clocks

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

Arthur Pequegnat clocks were made between 1908 and 1941 in Berlin (now Kitchener), Ontario. Those produced before 1917 had “Berlin” inscribed on the dial face. The town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 became the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. The name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany consequently the decision was made by city officials to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada). Arthur Pequegnat clocks were the only wholly made Canadian clocks (aside from a short run of clocks made by the Canada Clock Company and later the Hamilton Clock Company in the 1870s) and are particularly sought after by Canadian collectors.

AO from Ontario writes, “Good Morning Ron, I live in Ontario (Canada) and have two Pequegnat clocks I am thinking of selling. Could you give me an idea of how much they are worth? The mantel clock is an Oxford. Thank you.

The clocks she mentions in her email are the Arthur Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock (time and strike) and the King Edward time-only wall clock missing the King Edward lower drop decal.

Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock
Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock from the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario

King Edward with 15 day Moncton movement
King Edward with 15 day Moncton movement showing decal from the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario

I replied. “I looked at your photos and have some comments. The time-only wall clock is known as the King Edward. From the photo yours seems to look intact save for the missing decal in the lower drop. A King Edward decal should be in the middle of the glass panel. It appears to be replacement glass which will certainly affect the value. However you should be able to get in the $600 to $1000 range for your King Edward clock. If you are selling in Canada where collectors are attracted to Pequegnat clocks because they are wholly Canadian made you should do reasonably well. If the clock has been recently serviced you can expect to price it a little higher.

Mantel clocks always command lower prices but your Oxford should easily sell in the $400 range. I would price both slightly higher and see what responses you get.”

AOs reply, ” Hi again Ron, A dealer has offered me $750.00 for both clocks. Is that reasonable knowing that he has to resell them?”

I advised AO that they should dicker a bit and that the dealer certainly knows the value. I suggested that she could also try to sell it on an online for-sale site.

AO replied later and said they posted the clock on a for-sale site and the same dealer offered $650 for the King Edward.

I emailed her again asking how they made out with the sale. AO replied and said the dealer backed out and the clocks are still for sale.

UPDATE: AO wrote 1 week later and said she has sold them both for $350 more that the first offer. She is very pleased.

 

Tick-Talk Tuesday #2 -question about Chelsea ships clock issue

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

WC writes. “Hello Ron. I enjoy your blog. I came across it by investigating a repair for my Chelsea Vanderbilt ships bell mantel clock, passed along from my Grandfather’s estate. I was hoping you could give me some advice on a repair issue. 2 1/2 years ago I shipped the clock to Chelsea in Massachusetts for factory overhaul. Six or seven weeks later the clock was returned, and has functioned beautifully, after 15 or 20 years of dormancy.

Yesterday I went to wind the clock side on the usual schedule of once a week, and the key spun violently backwards in my hand.There is now no tension in the winding port, I suspect the spring has snapped. The basic overhaul charge was nearly $500, and the warranty was 2 years parts/ maintenance. Since there is no consultation available with Chelsea, I am reluctant to ship the clock back for additional repair, not knowing what on earth they would charge me again, as another $500 would rock the boat on this end. I could investigate names of clock-maker/ clock repair sites in the greater Bay Area, where I live.  Is this Chelsea that challenging of a repair?

The clock holds some sentimental value, but surely not enough to lose sleep over. Thank you, your thoughts are greatly appreciated.”

Similar to clock in this article
Similar to clock in this article

I wrote to WC and explained to him that I have not worked on one but I do know that this is not a clock that a novice or intermediate repair person would tackle. One of the issues is that only those who are authorized to repair them have access to the parts since Chelsea places limits on parts distribution so that they can perform repairs in-house. I explained that he may be experiencing a failed click. These movements are more prone to click return spring failure than main spring failure. Oftentimes when a click fails it takes other parts with it, i.e. secondary damage. However, the design of this clock makes it easy to take out either spring without disturbing anything else. If the click has let go and nothing else is damaged I advised him that he can fix the mainspring and click on his own or take it to a competent repair person in the area where he lives to effect the repair as long as it does not require additional parts. If the issue is limited to a failed click the repair cost would be far less than a more extensive repair.

The issue is whether or not Chelsea will stand by their warranty. WC has since corresponded with Chelsea and has sent the clock in for repair. They will assess what needs to be done and will consider the fact that it is just off warranty.

Let’s hope there is a happy ending to WCs plight and that Chelsea takes a reasonable approach in dealing with WC.

 

 

Ansonia Schoolhouse Clock – Part I – Assessment

Brass catch repair

Ansonia drop octagon
Ansonia drop octagon circa 1912

I acquired my Ansonia drop octagon clock in April of last year (2016) and put off servicing this clock because it was in good running order, kept good time and I had a number of other clocks that needed more attention. Now it’s on the bench.

Continue reading “Ansonia Schoolhouse Clock – Part I – Assessment” →

Jaeger LeCoultre Musical Alarm Clock – an update!

Back of Jaeger LeCoultre alarm clock

Jaeger LeCoultre clock
Jaeger LeCoultre clock

Last week I wrote that I was in the process of deciding whether or not to purchase this Swiss made Jaeger LeCoultre musical alarm clock. I saw it in an antique store in Langford, BC (Canada) and went away thinking about it. I had several questions in my mind as I walked away.

  • The seller was asking CDN199; a fair price?
  • Is it collectible?
  • I would like to narrow the vintage, the year it was made, thoughts?

I ended up not buying this clock for three reasons

  1. 3 days later the same seller decided that he wanted CDN299 and would not negotiate a lower price.
  2. An extensive search on all auction sites plus clock related sites revealed no references to this clock although I have no doubt that it is a Jaeger LeCoultre. That leads me to believe that it is not as desirable as other LeCoultre alarm clocks.
  3. I question the ethics of an antique dealer where half or more of the items on the floor have no price tag.

How do I feel about passing up this clock? The seller did not get my money! It would have nice to have, but more opportunities to find a similar clock will come along and likely from an ethical seller.

Tick-Talk Tuesday – #1 -question about Stromberg Carlson master clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your  particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

Stromberg Carlson master clock
Stromberg Carlson master clock

DP writes to me and asks what the lever does on the anchor (left arrow) and what happens if you move it one way or the other. He also asked about the purpose of the slot as indicated by the right arrow. The right part of the photo refers to a lower part of the clock.

Well, first of all what is DP referring to. This is a Stromberg Carlson master clock manufactured in 1947. Stromberg Carlson was a telecommunications equipment and electronics manufacturing company in the United States, formed in 1894. It was one of five companies that controlled the national supply of telephone equipment until after World War II.

A master clock is a precision clock that provides timing signals to synchronize slave clocks as part of a network of clocks. Networks of electric clocks connected by wires to a precision master pendulum clock began to be used in institutions like factories, offices, and schools around 1900. Many of you might recall the Simplex clock in your classroom which was but one slave clock among dozens in your school all physically connected to one clock, the master clock.

I do not have a particular expertise in Electric horology and asked him if I could consult within my clock circles.

Later on that day I responded. “Regarding your question (s), I gather you know that you have a master clock from which any number of slaves are run. The arrow on the left appears to be a contact activator similar to what one one might find on an IBM master clock, for 2 second contacts to advance slave clocks at a fast rate of impulse every two seconds. The slot on the right looks like it would be for an anchoring screw.”

Stromberg Carlsen movement
Stromberg Carlson movement

DPs response. “As you can see in this other clock mechanism that it doesn’t have that lever so yours is a good explanation. There is 6351-M stamped on my clock mechanism. However, the clock itself is not in its original configuration. I was told that originally it was used as a master clock in a school to control all the other clocks.  I was told that an electrical engineer reworked it so that it would run off of house current.  Too bad that he didn’t leave it the way it was originally. You can tell from the holes in the back wooden panel and now an occupied ceramic insulator that the was much more to it.”

As DP states, his clock was converted. In fact many were converted from 20VDC to 110 volts AC. Presumably a safer way to run the clock but unfortunate because it takes away some authenticity.

In answering DPs question I have now expanded my knowledge of electro-mechanical clocks.

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