So you want to fix a mechanical clock – Part I – a beginner’s toolkit

Tools are essential for clock repair because they enable precision and accuracy, which are critical when working with delicate mechanisms and intricate components. Let’s identify the key reasons.

Antique and vintage clocks can lose significant value if repaired improperly. Using the right tools minimizes the risk of damage, preserving their historical and monetary worth. The right tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, and tweezers, allow you to handle small parts without causing damage. Specialized tools ensure components are handled carefully and correctly.

Proper tools make the repair process faster and more straightforward. For beginners, having the right tools helps build confidence and competence. They allow you to focus on understanding clock mechanisms without being hindered by improper equipment.

This article will describe some of the tools required to tackle the repair and/or cleaning of mechanical clocks.

Based on years of clock repair experience, I recommend the following essential tools for any beginner’s toolkit. While some of these tools can be sourced from your local hardware store, specialty items will need to be ordered from clock supply companies such as Timesavers (USA), Perrin (Canada), or Meadows and Passmore (UK).

Whenever possible, avoid purchasing tools from craft shops, as their prices are often significantly higher. They are ideal for paint and quality paintbrushes but they tend to charge much higher prices for general-purpose tools. A ball peen hammer bought at a hardware store, for instance, costs half as much as one found in a craft shop.

A suggested list of items

Keys: clock keys come in many different sizes. You must use the correct key for the winding arbours of your clock. The pronged keys in the photo below will fit a multitude of arbours.

Magnifier: They are available in various strengths and allow a much closer view of your work.

Work light: Illuminates your work, this one articulates and has a magnifier. I have since replaced this light with an LED one. The lamp burnt out and the cost of the fluorescent lamp was more than the entire lamp. Plus the new LED lamp has light temperature and intensity controls.

Pliers: A variety of pliers to hold onto your work, release taper pins, tighten nuts, and cut wires. The green handle pliers are non-serrated (flat-nose).

Hammers: A ball peen hammer is very useful (not pictured). The craft clip holder is useful for steadying items that are to be soldered.

Files: Variety of sizes to help shape or file down anything on a movement. Avoid inexpensive Chinses files and spend a little more on quality ones.

Tweezers: Getting into tight situations, grabbing small parts, and positioning parts into place are typical uses for tweezers

Level: To find the correct beat the movement (clock) must be level.

Spring clamps: To restrain the power of the mainspring. The flat clamp (upper right) is for those mainsprings which do not leave a lot of working room. Otherwise, the other round clamps are good for most applications. I prefer the flat clamps.

Screwdrivers: Always handy to remove movements from cases, loosen bolts, and pry parts.

Letdown set: Before working on a movement the mainsprings must be let down or restrained in their clamps. The letdown key is the safest method of letting down the mainsprings. Inserts cover most arbour sizes.

Hand reamers and broaches (cutting and smoothing): For bushing clocks when you cannot afford the luxury of a bushing machine. Cutting and smoothing broaches are useful for enlarging a new bushing when tight tolerances are required. They come in assorted sizes.

Cotton swabs: A variety of cleaning uses.

Clock oil: Once the movement is apart and cleaned it must be re-assembled and then oiled before use. The oil, whether it is conventional or synthetic, must be specifically designed for a clock movement.

Toothpicks: For cleaning and “pegging out” bushings on a movement

Clock stand: Once the movement has been re-assembled it is tested outside the case for a short period. Gene’s movement stand is a fully adjustable test stand.

Clock movement stand — _{Gene’s clock movement stand}

For those handy with a hammer and saw a stand can be made at home with whatever lumber is at hand.

Testing the Kienzle movement on a makeshift test stand — _{Testing a movement on a home-built test stand}

Camera: At every part of the process a digital camera can record critical stages in assembling and disassembling a movement. I use a 50mm macro lens for close work. A cellphone is a perfectly acceptable alternative but one with good macro capabilities is preferred.

Electronic Caliper: Indispensable for measuring the thickness of anything be it springs, pivots, plates, and so on. Available at a clock supply house or save a little money and buy the same tool from a retail outlet such as Canadian Tire in Canada.

_{Using a micrometer to check pivot diameter}

Pivot locator: It is an excellent tool for aligning pivots with their holes during assembly.

Build your set of tools little by little to spread the cost. You may already have some of the items I’ve mentioned but buy what you need when you need it. As for those specialized tools, broaches for example, it pays to spend a little extra for better quality.

These are the tools you require to start your journey into clock repair. If you have a tool (or tools) you feel is indispensable for the beginning clock-maker please let me know.

In Part II I will describe tools for those who would wish to advance their skills in clock repair.

October 29, 2017

E. N. Welch Whittier model parlor clock Part III – more issues than anticipated

E. N. Welsh Whittier model — E. N. Welch Whittier parlour clock

A very dirty and oily movement. — A very dirty, oily and rusty movement

This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on

This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on. The case, tablet and dial face are in beautiful condition and nicely preserved requiring little or no work at all to restore to its former glory but the movement is another story. A past owner either sprayed oil on the movement or dipped it in some kind of lubricant on more than one occasion. The oil was gooey, sticky and seemingly baked on. It required several washings, vigorous scrubbing with a brass brush, ultrasonic cleaning and even #0000 steel wool. I finally got most of the grime, dirt and rust off the movement.

Having so much solder on a movement is a little discouraging and I often wonder what problems lie beneath. There was solder on the centre plate nut, solder on the front and back plate, 4th wheel on the strike side and solder around the hour cannon. I decided to leave the solder on the hour cannon for now. However unsightly, I may not remove it.

Washer around centre cannon — Soldered washer around centre cannon

The solder was removed with a butane torch. Expecting bad bushing repairs and/or punch marks I found nothing! I also removed the solder around the centre nut and found that the nut was not stripped as I initially suspected. I am puzzled.

Here is a video describing my plan to address bushing work.

In the video I mentioned the installation of eight bushings. I installed seven bushings initially but installed more later on as I discovered other power issues. One is always tempted to bush everything in a movement. Some clock-makers tend to bush everything because the one thing they do not want is the clock coming back. I understand that but I decided to take a cautious approach for this movement and bush what I felt was absolutely required.

Punching the bushing home — Tapping the bushing home

After cleaning the movement the pivots were polished and pivot holes pegged. Next is assembly. I have mentioned this before that I do not have much luck getting the strike side to function on the first go-around. It usually takes me two or three attempts.

Day 2

Although I was unable to set up the strike setup correctly the principle problem was the poorly running time train. After 5-10 minutes it would stop. Suspecting a power issue I looked for bent arbours, troublesome trundles or worn gear teeth and found nothing.

However, I found considerable play in the centre arbour. Suspecting poor meshing of the main wheel with the centre arbour gear I installed the 8th bushing (back plate) then removed the strike side entirely to focus on the time train issue. The movement immediately ran but the beat was inconsistent.

A “drifting” beat (in beat and then drifts out of beat, then in-beat) usually indicates an issue with the escape wheel teeth or the escape wheel arbour. Some of the EW (escape wheel) teeth have slightly bent tips but before I straighten them I wanted to determine if there were other reasons for the stoppage.

Day 3

The clock ran for about 48 hours and suddenly stopped. I dis-assembled the movement (again) and installed three more bushings, one on the escape wheel bridge which I noticed had a fair amount of pivot wear, the other two on the third wheel, back and front mostly for insurance. I surmised that vertical motion of the EW might be causing the inconsistent beat leading to the eventual stoppage. Addressing the bent tips on the EW teeth may come later if these measures do not cure the problem.

Day 4

The time side is settling down and I am now able to get several days running without a stoppage. The beat is now consistent.

Day 5

I am going to let this clock run for a week or so before I reinstall the strike train just to be sure that there are no other power issues. I was hoping to wrap this service up fairly quickly but unanticipated problems are slowing me down.

I’ll give my final thoughts in a post in Part IV, two weeks time.

October 25, 2017

Kundo 400 day clock and why I love anniversary clocks – Part II

I have never paid more that 30CDN for one but I see these clocks selling on EBay and other online for-sale sites at twice and three times what I typically pay

This a is Part II of a two part series on repairing a 400 day clock. Part I can be found here.

Attractive dial face, free of cracks and blemishes

I have four anniversary clocks (otherwise known as torsion clocks). I have never paid more that 30CDN for one but I see these clocks selling on EBay and other online for-sale sites at twice and three times what I typically pay. In fact, I saw one on EBay this morning (Oct 3, 2017) for 119US plus 39US shipping. The description is amusing:

When I tested it, I spun the balls about a full turn and it continued to spin back and forth for several minutes. From my understanding these things are supposed to go for a whole day without being spun again. I think it might need to be cleaned for it to do that.

The string still looks good; the cover is cracked a little where it connects to the clock but isn’t falling off.

Numerous dents, the pendulum locking guard is there for a reason! Not using it results in a snapped suspension spring and dents

The Horolovar suspension spring arrived today and now to install it in on the movement. 400 day clocks are easy to disassemble/clean and re-assemble but getting it to work correctly can be frustrating. Setting the beat can be a challenge.

To perform servicing on a 400 day clock you must have the Horolovar 400 day Repair Guide as a reference. The guide takes the guesswork out completely.

The old spring was snapped off just above the bottom block and unfortunately it was not re-usable

I received my guide as a Christmas gift last year. For my first Kundo miniature (bought and serviced in 2015) I did not have the guide and after a lot of guessing and cursing I managed to get the suspension spring installed correctly but it was more luck than skill.

Unfortunately, I required a new suspension spring for this clock. The old spring was snapped off just above the bottom block and not re-usable.

The guide tells me that this 400 clock is a Kundo Standard 53 that uses a .0032″ or .o81mm Horolovar spring. If you do not have the time to assemble suspension units, Horolovar will gladly sell you completely assembled units but you pay much more. In Section 10 of the guide there are templates for a number of clocks. Having a template at hand allows one to follow a pattern when screwing the fork and the upper and lower blocks to the suspension wire. This clock was template 3A.

The screws on the suspension assembly are very small and it pays to have good quality precision screwdrivers. It was not all joy, however. All went well until I got to the bottom block. The bottom block was seized and it took an extra effort to release the two block screws. However, once I overcame that little issue the completed assembly looked exactly like the template. The spring is longer than necessary and must be trimmed to fit. Now to install it on the movement.

Arrow indicates insertion point for top block

The suspension spring assembly slipped into the top and bottom easily. There is a threaded thumbscrew on the top base that slips into the top block (arrow in photo above). The bottom block has two hanger pins that the pendulum rests on. Next is the back spring cover and the locking guard. The locking guard is an earlier design and looks a somewhat flimsy but should work.

Once installed on the movement it is time to test the beat. The beat should be 8 beats per minute.

Next few days

There is nothing fancy about the beat adjustment. The top block fits into a friction fit base that is moved left or right to find the best beat. Moving the base allows one to position the fork that rocks the pallets back and forth so that the beat can be set.

As of this writing the clock has been running for 48 hours but there is a slight variance in the over-swing on each side after the click (I use toothpicks to check the over-swing – see photo below) which means that while the clock is running and keeping reasonable time the clock is very, very slightly out-of-beat. Minute changes in the next few days will address that.

I rotated the speed adjustment dial just above the pendulum several times as the clock was losing 10 minutes per day and am now discovering that a previous owner or a child perhaps gave that dial a few spins to see what would happen. Setting the time is a slow process and it will take a week or more to set the time correctly.

Using toothpicks to set the beat by observing the position of the over-swing

Working on anniversary clocks is always very satisfying for me and this is why I love them:

Anniversary clocks are time-only with few gears,
Relatively inexpensive to buy (though some Schatz and Gustav Beckers are less common, more desirable and more expensive),
Very quiet (this is a clock to have if a ticking clock drives you crazy),
Easy to dis-assemble/clean and re-assemble,
Operate so slowly that there is seldom any pivot wear and therefore, easy to service,
A great conversation piece,
They run for 400 days or more on a single wind though do not depend on them for accuracy.

Final note: this clock will be gifted to my daughter in Victoria who has always been fascinated with anniversary clocks.

October 21, 2017

Crazy Clock Ads – anniversary clocks – you decide, sadly illiterate or cleverly deliberate

400 Dayz, Heirloom Aniversry Clocks

Yoo may chooz clock 3 for ohnly 135$ or 2 for ohnly $185 or 3 for ohnly 235$ or all for jist 350$. Theze 400-day Clocs are in ecselent condishn and reecwire NOH electrisitee and thus NOH batreez, , jist wiinding wunts each year, for constant, dependable time-keeping, noh mater how oftn thu hydro wahz off. Doo note that this kind uv cloc haz at leest a 250 yeerz, air-loom liif-span and sellz for hundredz uv dollarz noo; thu numbr-3 cloc wahz $495 noo; thu numbr-2 wahz $695 and thu fanseer, numbr-1 wahz $795, back when quarts clocs wer beeing introdoosd. I don’t recahl thee exact aje uv them but I can ashoor yoo that thay ahl hav been in mii pohzseshn for les than fiftee yearz, and nun hav any vizible signz uv wear in thair gearz, becuz uv thoze geerz mooving a fraction uv an inch ohnlee 4-timez eech minit, insted uv 60 timez az iz comon with ahl uthr kindz. Ahl-soh, ahl 3 uv theez are thu real thing, NOT thu =FAKE= kind that require batereez and ohnly APEAR too bee authentic, with an electric motor driving thu pendulum and a quartz movement that’s noh mohr reliable than any uthr batery-driven clock. Yoo’re welcum too make uh vyooiing apt. for any time uv any day, sunday throo thurzday.

The clock described in the ad are similar to these in my collection. The prices he or she is quoting are much too high.

Is the seller cleverly deliberate or sadly illiterate? You decide!

October 16, 2017

Kundo 400 day clock and why I love anniversary clocks | Part I

The 400-day anniversary clock, also known as long-duration clocks, is a fascinating category of clock known for its ability to run continuously for a full year without needing to be wound. These clocks, often featuring intricate designs and beautifully crafted mechanisms, were first introduced in the late 19th century and have since become a beloved collectible.

In this article, we’ll explore the history, mechanics, and appeal of these interesting clocks. This is a two-part series. The first part describes my most recent purchase, a 400-day Kundo anniversary clock. Part II involves the installation of the suspension spring, cleaning, testing, and post adjustments.

400-day clocks are known for their inaccuracy, although they are undeniably beautiful and fascinating to observe. A minute lost each day adds up over the course of a year, potentially totaling many minutes—or even hours—by the end. Despite this, I still find great joy in owning and appreciating them.

A brief history

400 day clocks have been with us since about 1900. There were torsion clocks produced before 1900 but in limited numbers from about 1894 onward but the real push was after 1900. The Kundo model you see here was made in the late 1950s or early 1960s, probably the peak and subsequent decline of the anniversary clock era.

Once quartz clocks were introduced mechanical versions declined precipitously. Kundo is one of many companies making anniversary clocks in the 1950s and 60s. Kundo is a combined form of Kieninger and Obergfell. The company exists to this day as Kieninger, a subsidiary of Howard Miller which is part of a larger company.

This particular clock is a good example of a typical anniversary clock of the period. There are signs of wear as one might expect, dents on the base where an unrestrained pendulum did its damage and a snapped suspension spring but all the parts are there, complete with its dome.

_{Dents from weights bouncing around during transit}

The clock was purchased at a local antique store. It is not in running condition. These clocks typically sell for around $50 to $100 or more on online marketplaces. Domes are often chipped or missing entirely. The glass dome on this one is free of chips.

I have ordered a Horolovar spring (.0032″) and will report on the installation, cleaning, and testing of this 400-day clock. Look for the second part of this series.

October 11, 2017

Canada Clock Co. – a cottage clock from the early 1880s

Half hour bell strike, those nuts are not original

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking, piece broken on left side of base

We have a couple of antique stores in our small town. Calling them antique stores is a bit of a stretch because there is usually more junk inside than actual antiques. We were shopping in the area of one of those “antique” stores and my wife turned to me and said, “Let’s go in”. I replied, “You know, all they have is junk”.

I thought, I might have found something important

I acquiesced. While she continued her shopping I went on ahead to look around the store and in the very back I saw a very sad looking clock that at I took for an old Sessions or a Waterbury. As I neared the clock it piqued my interest and I began to see that it was quite old. I picked it up, looked for any markings on the dial face, found none then checked the back of the clock and discovered most of an intact label revealing a what I consider to be a significant find.

Back label in good condition for the age of the clock

It is a clock from the Canada Clock Company. The Hamilton Cottage Extra was one of a range of clocks in their Metropolitan line.

This is an important discovery. The owner of the store knew nothing about clocks. He was asking $99 but after a bit of haggling, we settled on $40. I knew that it was worth much more.

Here is an excerpt on the Canada Clock Co. found at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River Ontario (Canada).

This company was the last of three sequential attempts to produce clocks by factory methods in Canada during the 1872 – 1884 period. The original effort by the Canada Clock Company in Whitby, Ontario was basically unsuccessful and only limited production was achieved.

In 1876, the equipment was relocated to Hamilton, Ontario to begin a second attempt as the Hamilton Clock Company, with new investors. This attempt was more successful and a fairly wide range of clocks was produced. However, sales were not very large and some of the investors left the company by 1879. At that point the president, James Simpson, ended production and proceeded with a major reorganization.

The company subsequently became the Canada Clock Company using the old Hamilton Clock Company factory and resumed production in 1880 but as a result of poor sales closed its doors in 1884.

For more go to this page at the museum site.

Clocks from the Canada Clock Co.are sought after by collectors. For international readers this represents a rare find because the 1870s to the mid 1880s was a very important period for clock production in Canada. Apart from several independent clock-makers in Quebec and eastern Canada two notable companies made wholly Canadian clocks, The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. of Kitchener Ontario made clocks up to 1941 and Martin Cheney of Montreal made finely crafted clocks in the early 1820s. This clock was made at the Hamilton, Ontario factory which produced clocks from 1880 to 1884.

Original time and strike 30 hour movement — Original count wheel time and strike 30 hour movement

The 30-hour time and (bell) strike movement is in remarkably good condition and fairly clean. The back label in good condition for the age of the clock and there is a stamp on the top of the label which says, “…A Hill &Co.”. If any Hamiltonians are reading this I would be grateful if you could make inquires about this small retailer.

My preliminary examination reveals that this clock has had very few repairs over the years. I have not taken the movement out of its case to check bushing/gear wear and other issues but I am initially encouraged. The case reflects the age of the clock but I would judge the clock to be in just fair condition. There is a wooden piece that needs to be re-attached on the right side of the base. Fortunately that piece was tucked inside the clock case.

100+ years of grime came off easily; etched glass on the bottom part of the tablet is distinctive

The crudely made case is not overly decorative and reflects a muted Victorian style of the times. The lower part of the tablet has an etched glass floral design typically found in Canada Clock Company clocks. The door clasp is original. The dial face is flaked in places and not in the best of condition though the 2 floral designs on each bottom corner are nicely preserved. The hands are original. The case is not heavy and made of pine with a deep walnut stained finish. It was grimy and dirty as expected. It cleaned it up nicely with Murphy’s soap and a sharp hobby knife was used to remove the numerous paint drops on the clock. Why folks do not put something over the clock when painting a room amazes me.

I will put the clock aside until I can determine my next steps. Do I pursue a full restoration including renewing the dial face or leave the clock largely in as-found condition? In the meantime I will re-attach the wood piece on the left side of the base.

What would you do?

October 7, 2017

Tick Talk Tuesday #12 – Arthur Pequegnat Nelson hall clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern and of course, my general comments. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circle for the best possible answer.

NV writes about her Arthur Pequegnat Nelson hall (tall-case) clock.

“I have an antique, oak ‘hall’ clock that’s been handed down in my family. I read in an article you wrote that you collect them.

This clock was in my home growing up and my grandmother, now 96, reminds me of its history and knows whose home it was originally from in our family.(my grandfather’s grandparents, I believe). I’ve started to look into the history of these clocks. I’m interested to know what your thoughts are if you are interested in sharing them.

I can tell you that it’s in beautiful condition, however although it had always worked and sounded well (still sounds beautiful) when it was shipped here to BC in the 90s, it was never restarted and the finial became dislodged, but it is not cracked or broken. So it’d since been stored at my grandmother’s but she never got it going after it arrived and needs to ‘be started’ as the weights are still off (or possibly a repair?) Also the key was lost.

I’ve just recently brought it to my apartment (Gramma wanted the space!) And she supports me in whether I decide to keep it or not.Please contact me if you are interested as I am considering selling but regardless I will need to determine value/appraisal if I do keep it, at least for insurance. ”

My reply.

“You have a real Canadian treasure. Though it is called a hall clock it’s actual name is the “Nelson”. There is one on display at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River Ontario. Unlike many tall case clocks that decline in value yours is actually increasing since it is continually sought after by collectors. If it says Berlin on the lower part of the dial it was made before 1917. Clocks made after that simply said, “The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company of Canada”. The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company closed its doors in 1941.

You can easily find a replacement key. Perrins would have the key although off hand I do not know the correct size. The finial on top is a friction fit.

It would be in the neighbourhood of $2000. You should keep it not only because it has strong sentimental value but it is an important part of Canadian history. It would also be worth repairing.

NV cannot keep the clock and has plans to sell it.

October 3, 2017

Is clock collecting part of the counter-technology revolution?

Bushing installed on escape wheel arbour

Is clock collecting (and repair) part of the counter-technology revolution?

Many years ago, social scientists predicted with the onset of modern technology it would sap us of our knowledge. Our brains would simply melt away. Concentration and initiative would be sucked out of us. Why would you need to know anything if it is readily available at your fingertips? How often do you hear the phrase, “just google it”. Sadly, it has become an integral part of our lexicon.

People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves

The term counter-technology is not a term I invented. I found it mentioned in a car magazine article some time ago. Many people are collecting and repairing antique cars more than ever. Why? Reliving past memories? Getting your hands dirty. Rejecting the modern world?

Has the analogue world returned? Yes and no. Wine and beer making has become a huge industry and there seem to be mom and pop microbreweries everywhere, antique furniture purchases have increased dramatically, backyard chicken coops are popping up everywhere, fountain pen collecting is a “new” thing, vinyl records are spinning back and stamp collecting is returning with renewed vigor.

Retro is in. But is is not just that! It is a statement. People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves. We all know the value and satisfaction of pursuing a simpler way of life but at the same time we still want to feel connected to our busy modern world. We want both. This is our inevitable response to the new digital world. We are pushing back but just enough to satisfy our needs by remaining connected with the past but we still feel the need to be plugged in.

However, every now and then we feel the need to dis-engage. Digital detoxification. It’s a thing. Somehow we want to wash the digital world from our lives, however briefly. I spend summers at our family cottage in Quebec (Canada). There is no Internet and I am totally fine with that. But what’s the first thing I do when I return home? You got it!

Simplicity breeds complexity

To truly embrace the analogue world the mechanical clock is my personal statement. Not only do I collect antique and vintage clocks I repair them as well. As readers know I am not a trained horologist but I love the challenge of repairing a clock and I love accumulating knowledge in the pursuit of my hobby. Needless to say I am not always successful and my office has a few notable failures. I am fine with that. Failure breeds learning. It is my response to the increasing pressures of the digital world. It is my response to our increasingly complicated world. Simplicity breeds complexity.

Like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once

It took years to learn the skills necessary to repair this Sessions Westminster A Westminster chime clock — It took 2 years to learn the skills necessary to repair this Sessions Westminster A chime clock

Analogue verses digital. It is a question of balance, like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once. I admire people who have “analogue” hobbies but I especially admire those who remain connected to our modern world by maintaining a delicate balance between both.

October 1, 2017

E. N. Welch Whittier model parlor clock Part II – a description

The Whittier Model

This is the Whittier model from Welch’s Authors series. Tran’s 2d ed. shows it from the 1893 catalogue. It is a half-hour strike clock. Though an alarm could be ordered this clock came without one.

It is solid walnut in construction, deep brown in colour and darkened by age. It stands 22 inches tall by 14 ½ inches wide and 5 inches deep. The crown is an ornate machine-cut design with a single bulls-eye. The Roman numeral dial face with inner brass ring is original but has been covered with a clear varnish.

The spade hands with circular cut-outs also appear to be original. The tablet is in remarkable condition and features an embossed gold colored scene of two female child warriors on each side presumably guarding an older female warrior (laurel and spear), reminiscent of Greek or Roman mythology.

There are two labels on the back panel, the top designates the model name which is barely readable; the bottom label has generic operating instructions for several types of clock models. Both labels appear to have been varnished over at some point. The upper area of the back panel has a hook for hanging the clock, added by a previous owner. However, this is a shelf or mantel clock, not meant to be hung on a wall. I doubt that the pendulum bob was this colour originally.

Though incorrectly termed a kitchen or gingerbread clock it is commonly referred to as a parlor or hall clock. Since the company last produced clocks in 1902 I would comfortably date this clock at between 1893-96 or perhaps a little later, 1901-02. The E. N. Welch Clock Company has a fascinating history (detailed in Part I of this series) and unfortunately not many of these well-made American clocks are still around.

In Part III I will describe the challenges of servicing the clock movement.

September 28, 2017

The Cuckoo clock – A brief history

This weeks profile is about the cuckoo clock. I do not have one in my collection but I am always open to new additions. I know almost nothing about them so I have to rely on knowledgeable people like Megan to fill in the blanks. Earlier this summer (2017) I received an email from Megan. Megan runs a site that specializes in Cuckoo clock products for sale. She asked me to profile her site and I said I would be happy to do so.

“I came across your clock blog and have really been enjoying it. I myself run a Black Forest cuckoo clock blog and I have an article about the history of the cuckoo clock that I think your audience might find useful. I have posted it below and should you find it useful, I would love to have it featured on your blog. If you want to check out my site, visit www.designedintime.com

Perhaps one of the greatest contributions to the Black Forest’s fame is the cuckoo clock. While it is easy to appreciate their charismatic beauty and charm, few realize how deeply rooted these clocks are in Black Forest history. It has been a long journey that has involved several hundred years and thousands of people in one small town.

The story of these incredible clocks starts several hundred years ago in Germany’s royal family. The first description of a cuckoo clock was in 1629 and made by a German nobleman, Philipp Hainhofer. He described a curious little clock that belonged to Prince Elector August von Sachsen. It was said to contain a bird that resembled a cuckoo and it was therefore called a cuckoo clock. Though these clocks were very primitive they did not make any noise.

Enter Franz Anton Ketterer! Ketterer was a clock maker from the Black Forest and is often credited with the invention of the cuckoo clock. It was one day in the 1730s, after pondering the mechanism of a church organ’s bellows that he was inspired to recreate the mechanism inside a clock that contained a cuckoo bird. Thus, the first cuckoo-calling mechanism was born.

Word spread of these fascinating little clocks and it wasn’t long before the cuckoo clock was on the rise in the Black Forest. Most of the villagers in the Black Forest were farmers, but as the eldest sons of the family often inherited the farm, it left the others with a need for supplemental income. Cuckoo clock making was, therefore, a wonderful opportunity for villagers to support their families. During the deep snowy winters, the villagers would toil away at their clock making skills and when the snow melted in the spring they would take their clocks to display in the town. These people, the early cuckoo clock makers from the Black Forest were given the name “Häuslers”.

At the time, hourglasses were the most commonly used timekeepers and the clocks became not only a much more accurate replacement but were also much more artistic. Germany, always a leader in the arts, once again did not disappoint. It wasn’t long before the villagers would have contests to see who could make the most unique and artistic cuckoo clock. People far and wide caught wind of these incredible timekeepers and it wasn’t long before there was an international demand for cuckoo clocks.

Therefore, in 1850, the Duke of Baden founded a clock-making school that offered classes in standard subjects such as math and writing, but also advanced clock-making.

As clock-making flourished a grand contest was offered by Robert Gerwig, the director of a Clock-making School in Furtwangen. It was open to any clockmakers who would compete for the best contemporary clock design. The winner would be funded to complete their design and the winning design was created by Friedrich Eisenlohr. Eisenlohr was an architect whose then-current project was building a new railway through the Black Forest and it was no surprise that the winning design was a cuckoo clock. This clock, however, resembled the rail houses and the design soon became a popular idea that would take over the early designs of the shield clocks. The box and roof style of the rail house design was the precursor to the modern day chalet clock that we see all over the world. Ironically though, there was only one difference between Eisenlohr’s design and the final product. This change would be that Eisenlohr’s design included a cuckoo, however, when the design was put into action, there was not sufficient funding to complete the cuckoo mechanism. Despite this, other Black Forest clockmakers soon figured how to merge both the cuckoo mechanism and the rail house design. Therefore Eisenlohr is still credited with the modern style.

Today, the Black Forest cuckoo clock is a world renowned treasure that has made the small, but beautiful Black Forest villages famous. It comes in a variety of sizes and styles including chalet and carved. While a true Black Forest cuckoo clock is mechanically operated, there are also battery operated clocks called quartz clocks. These can be made in the Black Forest and are often more affordable as they are not authentic like mechanically operated cuckoo clocks.

While visiting the Black Forest I strongly recommend stopping by some of the world-renowned clock makers, such as Hones, Rombach and Haas and Schneider. There are also a number of museums that contain some of the original shield and rail road clocks that are definitely worth checking out. Perhaps my favorite is the German Clock Museum in Furtenwagon as they contain some of the oldest cuckoo clock histories to date.

Next time you see a cuckoo clock, you can appreciate not only the skilled craftsmanship but also the hundreds of years of history that stand behind it!

Photos reproduced with permission. For more information on cuckoo clocks, visit Designed in Time, www.designedintime.com

September 25, 2017

E. N. Welch Whittier model parlor clock Part I – E. N. Welch history

Among the most common parlor clocks, E.N. Welch clocks are relatively scarce. A key reason is that the company was absorbed by Sessions in 1903. The history of Welch is intriguing, as Welch, Spring & Co. initially focused on producing high-end clocks but eventually shifted to manufacturing cheaper, heavily discounted mass-market clocks—a move that likely contributed to its decline.

This time-and-trike American clock with a count wheel strike is an antique store find. I found it at what I would call a higher-end antique store in a small village in Quebec during one of our day travels from our summer cottage. I liked it so much I bought it. Because the strike side did not function there was a slight reduction in price.

The clock ran for several days and kept good time, but it was in desperate need of a cleaning. I was unable to get the strike side to run, though I hoped to fix it eventually. All the strike-side parts appeared to be present, but someone had clearly tampered with the levers, bending them significantly. It’s impossible to fully assess the situation until I take the movement apart.

History of E N Welch

The E. N. Welch Mfg. Co. was formed on July 6, 1864 to succeed an older private firm making clocks under the name of E. N. Welch. Elisha N. Welch (1809 to 1887) had been making clocks at a factory site on East Main Street at Forestville, Conn. since taking over the bankrupt business of J. C. Brown in about 1856.

A movement shop was established in 1869, adding to the two factories already in use by the firm. Between 1868 and 1884, a subsidiary firm called Welch, Spring & Company was formed to produce a more expensive line of clocks. The company was formed by three clock enthusiasts; Welch, Solomon Crosby Spring and Benjamin Bennet Lewis. The Welch firm was well known for its handsome rosewood cases, though in 1885, with changing styles in furniture, the surviving firm began to introduce new models with solid walnut cases and discontinued some of the older rosewood veneered cases.

Elisha Welch was enamored of a lovely (but very liberal-thinking) diva of the day from Spain by the name of Adelina Patti. He named his best quality movement after her, called the “Patti” movement. Clocks with this movement are highly sought after by serious collectors. However, Examples of “Patti” clocks at any of the international auction sites are rare.

After the death of Elisha Welch in 1887, the firm steadily declined, selling off some of its assets and issuing new stock to raise much needed capital. A new line of clocks was introduced for 1893, which were cheaper in quality than their already discounted line. In May of that year the factory was closed down and a receiver was appointed The receiver spent nearly two years selling off stock and settling the debts of the firm. It was not until 1896 that the firm resumed production.

In 1899, two fires, one in March and a second in December reduced most of the Welch manufacturing complex to ashes. Despite the completion of a new brick factory in 1900, the company could not meet its liabilities. Meanwhile, members of the wealthy Sessions family were buying out former stockholders and eventually took control of the firm in 1902. They changed the name to the Sessions Clock Company on January 9, 1903.

E. N. Welch clocks made before 1880 are considerably more desirable as these represent the height of the company’s clock-making. Clocks made before 1880 generally command higher auction prices. Compared to companies like Seth Thomas and Waterbury instances of E. N. Welsh clocks coming up on auction sites are becoming quite uncommon.

Stay tuned for more! In Part II, I will describe the Whittier and highlight some of its interesting features. In Part III, I will share my progress and discuss any challenges I encounter while servicing the movement.

September 21, 2017

A tale of two similar but very different carriage clocks

At first I thought they were identical

While at an antique store in Kazabazua, Quebec my wife made an offer on one of these two carriage clocks. The other clock was found at an antique barn just outside of Campbell’s Bay, Quebec, literally an hour’s drive apart and about a week between the two purchases.

I was surprised to find two seemingly identical clocks not far from each other. At first I thought they were identical.

Italian made versus German made carriage clock — German versus Italian made carriage clocks

The one immediate difference is readily apparent. The dial on the left has Arabic numerals whereas the one on the right has Roman Numerals. They have similar dimensions but if you look closely the bases are not the same height. Both are alarm clocks. Both have a “second” hand at the top and a set-time indicator at the bottom section of the dial. Both have seemingly identical carriage style cases made of very similar materials. Both I believe, are 30 hour clocks. There is an access panel on the back of each clock for winding and adjusting. However, that is where their similarities end.

Musical alarm on the left and bell strike on the right

I would estimate that they were both made sometime after the First War

The one on the right is made by Junghans or Kienzle, both German clock companies with long and illustrious histories. I tried comparing the plate design and dimensions to a database found here and the closest I could find was Kienzle. However, it is also very similar to Junghans “Joker” style clocks that I have seen for sale on EBay. At one time (around 1905) Junghans had a branch in Venice (Italy) likely a delivery depot for clocks made in Germany. But it is also possible that some assembly may have been done there hence, no definitive markings. I would estimate that they were both made sometime after the First War.

The one on the right is made by an Italian maker, Fratelli Borletti. Fratelli Borletti was the only clock factory in Italy prior to WWI and produced only alarm clocks. Fratelli Borletti was later renamed “Veglia Borletti” and produced many car instruments for Fiat, Lancia, Daimler and so on. Today, Veglia Borletti belongs to Magneti Marelli.

The Junghans or Kienzle clock is a musical alarm clock while the Fratelli Borletti clock has a bell type alarm with a striker, though the striker on this particular clock is missing.

One (the musical alarm clock) is working and remarkably clean, the other needs a lot of work. Two very unusual clocks found not far from each other.

September 17, 2017

Visit to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors museum

We were making our way to Missouri after beginning our journey in Maine in early May (2017). We only had one very important stop along the way because for the past 5 years I have always wanted to see the NAWCC clock museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania. Ever since I seriously wrapped my head around clock collecting and repair my dream was to visit this museum. Getting there was no problem but Interstate traffic is truly a disaster! Unfortunately, we budgeted too little time for a thorough tour in the hour and a half we had but we saw as much as we could in that short time.

Waiting in a hot parking lot for the museum to open was not much fun. Couldn’t you just open the front doors a little earlier than 10:00am? To kill time we walked around the town of Columbia. It might be neat and tidy place and one of the “top twenty small towns to visit in America”, so the sign says, but like all small towns in America the decline is evident in the number of vacant storefronts and absence of activity in the streets.

A sign in Columbia Penn. — Sign in Columbia Penn.

We finally got into the museum. We (my wife and I) were the first in and being a NAWCC member my wife and I got in free. During our time there we saw only one other couple. So, not a terribly busy time but there are likely peak periods in the summer.

I was wondering how I would describe my visit to the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Museum in Columbia Pennsylvania on that day in May. It was wonderful and more than I had imagined. There is simply not enough time to see everything and take it all in. The museum is very well laid out and there are displays to please everyone.

Vienna Regulator with Grande Sonnerie movement

For me the highlight has to be Engels Monument Clock (see Youtube video below). There was only ourselves and one other couple at the time so we were happy that the staff were able to put on a real show for us. The staffer walked us through the history of the clock and followed with a fascinating demonstration. AS he did so I imagined what it must have like to attend a local fair and see this wonderful clock in action. The clock was exhibited around the country for 74 years and last displayed in 1951 at the Ohio State Fall.

There is an emphasis on American clocks as you would expect but there are excellent examples of French, German, English and Japanese clocks. There is a broad selection of tall case clocks all the way back to the 1700s The history of time was very interesting as are the interactive displays which I am sure would please any children visiting the museum.

In a later article I will post more photos.

Whether you are an avid collector or merely have a casual interest in clocks this is great place to visit.

September 13, 2017

A pretty little Delft clock by Forestville

Purchased earlier this year (2017) I thought it would make the perfect cottage clock. A relative attended an estate auction in Ottawa while I simultaneously bid online in Nova Scotia for the clock. She brought it to her home and it was months later before I actually got to see it. But for one low resolution auction photo, it was bought unseen and as-is.

It is a Delft style, triangle shaped front-wind 8-day time-only porcelain clock with a lever escapement similar to those found in marine/alarm clock movements. It is marked Forestville. While Forestville is a Canadian company the clock is not Canadian made. The Forestville Clock Company is often confused with clocks made in Forestville, Connecticut. According to the following historical information they are not the same.

The Forestville Clock Company of Toronto began its life as the Blackforest Clock Co. of Toronto headed by its founders, Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928. Both movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son, Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents company in the 1930s and later became a full time employee in the 1940s.

Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street factory but most clocks were imported fully assembled. At first, imported mantel and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener, Ontario but later complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War which also led to a change of the company name to Forestville Clock Company in 1941. During the war years the company imported their movements from England, the United States and even France. Starting in the early 1950s German companies resumed production with Mauthe being a major supplier.

Clocks with a Dutch motif reflected a popular trend in the 1950s and 60s perhaps in recognition of Canada’s close relationship with the Dutch people since the war years

The Forestville Clock company was quite successful during the middle decades of the 20^th century and many Canadian homes proudly displayed time-only, time and strike and chiming clocks retailed by Forestville. When Ed Stossel retired in 1979 the company survived just a few years without his guidance and leadership.

Clocks with a Dutch motif reflected a popular trend in the 1950s and 1960s perhaps in recognition of Canada’s close relationship with the Dutch people since the war years. Canadian troops liberated Holland at the end of the Second World War, the Dutch holding a particular fondness with Canadians since that time.

It is an attractive but a simple design. There is one scene on each “point” of the “squared off” triangle; a woman in traditional dress carrying water and accompanied by a child on the right, three single-mast sail boats (one large and two small ones) on the left and a Dutch windmill beside a small house on top. The violin bow styled hour and minute hand design is shared with other Forestville clocks.

The clock ran slowly for the first day or so. On the back of the movement is a speed regulator that one would typically find on an alarm clock, an easy method of making small adjustments.

There are no chips, cracks or blemishes on the face. It appears to be in excellent condition and runs well.

It is a welcome addition to our cottage kitchen.

September 9, 2017

Lessons learned from antique mall clock buying

While touring through the United States we had an opportunity to explore the “magic” of antique malls. Antique malls are typically located in former department stores such as Macys or JC Penny found in commercial areas of a town or city. Antique malls are an American cultural experience. They are not a unique experience for me as I have been in much smaller antique malls in Canada but this one was very BIG!

A particular example I will use is the Maumee Antique Mall located north of Toledo, Ohio. For the antique shopper the first impression is of a giant smorgasbord of antiques. Could I find a bargain given the huge selection of antique items? The Maumee Mall would have about 200 vendors or more. Each vendor would occupy a small 12X12 stall though some might have more than one stall.

It was a weekday and we did not expect to see a lot of shoppers; that was certainly the case on that particular Thursday. The mall is organized into aisles with plenty of antiques with no particular organization. If one were looking for crystal, for example, some stalls would have crystal and others a slightly better selection but there is no specific area of the mall that would have a concentration of any particular item. Front end staff in a check out area handle all the transactions. The mall is filled with security cameras so you are being watched at all times. There are also security staff disguised as shoppers who are present throughout the complex. A small snack bar invites the shopper to have a bite while finding that special item.

Always and I mean always ask for a discount

There are no discounts on items below a certain fixed value ($20 for instance). Some malls are authorized to offer a %10 discount without contacting the seller. Any further negotiation on price requires the mall staff to contact the vendor who may or may not be immediately available. If contacted, the sellers normally do not offer much more than the standard 10% discount. A bit of advice; in malls such as Maumee or any antique store for that matter, always and I mean always ask for a discount.

On this particular Thursday I was shopping for antique clocks. I found nothing that I would consider a “deal” that day. A typical gingerbread clock was in the US$175 to US$200 range, a mantel clock US$100 or more.

Gingerbread needs work — Appears to be a deal but this Gingerbread needs a lot of work

A Mauthe German box clock that was not in the best of shape was selling for US$299. In general, most clocks had serious issues such as missing hands, no pendulum, scuffed up or cracked cases and unreadable dials. Clock prices were 30% to 50% higher than you would find on eBay, any other auction site or your local mom and pop antique store. My wife was shopping for glassware & crystal and also found higher than average prices but managed to find a couple of nice items.

$299 Mauthe wall clock — US$299 Mauthe time and strike wall clock

Why? High overhead is most certainly a factor. Staffing, security, and steep rental rates force the vendor to charge higher than normal prices. Malls such as this most certainly attract a customer base though I suspect not many are highly educated antique shoppers.

For the bargain shopper there are much better options in my opinion. The best bargains for clocks can be found on local community online for-sale sites where you can negotiate directly with the seller electronically or in person.

Call it a cultural experience but in my view you will not find great bargains at an antique mall. Your mileage may differ!

September 4, 2017

Clock key sizes – do you have the right one?

Winding arbors on a Seth Thomas mantel clock (arrows)

Understanding the role of the clock key is essential for proper clock maintenance and operation. The clock key not only winds your antique or vintage clock but also plays a crucial part in ensuring it runs smoothly and efficiently. However, using the correct size key is just as important as the key itself. Using the wrong size can lead to damage or improper winding, affecting the longevity and performance of your clock.

In this article, we’ll explore the purpose of the clock key, why choosing the right size is vital, and provide a helpful chart to guide you in selecting the correct key for your clock.

Winding Mechanical clocks

Mechanical clocks require periodic winding. Some clocks need to be wound daily, such as 30-hour clocks, while others are wound once a week (8-day clocks). Some clocks run for 14 days, and anniversary clocks can run for up to 400 days on a single winding.

Most mechanical clocks have a winding hole located on the dial face, where the clock key is inserted. The key should fit snugly—neither too tight nor too loose—ensuring smooth operation when winding.

Why Key Size Matters

Except for the smaller regulating arbour on some clock faces, most winding arbours or winding points are the same size on the clock. This means one key will fit all of them. However, over time, a clock’s original key may go missing. If this happens, you can often use a key from another mechanical clock, and one of them will usually fit.

A micrometre is a useful tool to measure the thickness of a winding arbour. However, measuring the arbour’s size often requires removing the clock movement from its case. Once you’ve measured, you can order the correct key online.

Different Types of Keys

In general, larger German movements use a #8 key, though some require a #7 key. Many 31-day clocks, or clocks made in Korea or China, use a #6 or #7 key. Many American mantel clocks require a #5 or #6 key.

Keys come in all shapes and sizes. In the photo below are keys from German and American movements. The two-pronged keys (4 and 5 prongs) are available at any clock supply house such as Perrin or Timesavers and will fit many clock winding arbours. Many other sizes can also be ordered. eBay, online marketplaces and antique stores are other sources for clock keys.

In the photo below you can see two types of double-ended keys

The one on the left is used for winding a typical American clock. The large end fits into the winding arbour while the small end is for adjusting the speed of your clock. Many clocks have a smaller arbour used for adjusting the speed of your clock and will have “S” and “F” (Slow/Fast) inscribed on the dial generally near the 12 o’clock position.

The key on the right is for a time-only carriage clock. The small end is used to advance the minute hand and the large end fits onto the mainspring arbour.

Speed adjustment arbor — _{Speed adjustment arbour requires the small end of a two-ended key}

Grandfather and Ogee Clocks

30-hour weight-driven Ogee clocks typically require a #4, #5, or #6 crank key. Many grandfather clocks use a #10 or #11 winding crank, and it’s important not to wind them with a conventional clock key. For clocks with weight cables, the winding crank is essential for raising the weights. Insert the crank into the arbour and carefully wind the weights up until they reach the top of the clock, ensuring they remain fully visible.

Some clock keys will also have a number stamped on them indicating their size.

Storing Your Clock Key

It’s important to keep your clock key in a safe, easily accessible place. Keys should be stored either beside the clock, within the front access door of a wall clock, or in a caddy inside the case. Mantel clocks with key caddies can be inconvenient, as you must move the clock to open the back door to access the key. However, for homes with small children, keeping the key in its caddy helps ensure it remains out of reach.

Key caddy behind access door — _{Key caddy behind the access door}

Key Size Chart

Here is a chart that lists key sizes in millimetres for both American and Swiss movements, from small to large:

Key Size	American (mm)	Swiss (mm)
5/0	1.6	1.25
4/0	1.8	1.5
3/0	2.0	1.75
2/0	2.2	2.0
0	2.4	2.25
1	2.6	2.5
2	2.8	2.75
3	3.0	3.0
4	3.2	3.25
5	3.4	3.5
6	3.6	3.75
7	3.8	4.0
8	4.0	4.25
9	4.2	4.5
10	4.4	4.75
11	4.6	5.0
12	4.8	5.25
13	5.0	5.5
14	5.2	5.75
15	5.4	6.0
16	5.6	6.25
17	5.8	6.5
18	6.0	6.75
19	6.2	7.0
20	6.4	7.25
21	6.6	7.5
22	6.8	7.75
23	7.0	8.0

_{Winding crank in a miniature Vienna Regulator}

There is no key required for weight-driven clocks that have weight chains. Winding involves pulling the weight(s) to the top of the clock once each week.

Check out this article on How to Wind A Mechanical Clock

Choosing the correct clock key is essential for the proper functioning and longevity of your mechanical clock. Whether you’re winding an antique mantel clock, a grandfather clock, or a time-only carriage clock, using the right key size ensures smooth operation and prevents damage to the movement.

With a variety of key sizes available, understanding your clock’s requirements and keeping the key in a safe, accessible location will help you maintain your timepiece in excellent working condition. By following the guidelines and chart provided, you can confidently select the correct key and enjoy the reliable performance of your clock for many years to come.

August 31, 2017

Clock therapy – it’s not a pill or counseling but it works!

I enjoy the ritual of winding my clocks once a week. It gives me a chance to “see how they are doing”. Each one is like a friend and my mission is to take care of them. As I go from clock to clock I listen carefully as I wind each one, adjust as necessary to speed it up or slow it down depending on the season of the year, humidity and so on and think about the last time it was serviced and what might need to be done.

Some keep very good time, especially the weight driven ones, because they release power at a steady rate while others, like the spring driven clocks either need adjustments often or only occasionally. Like friends, they are all quite different.

The grass is always greener.... — The grass is always greener….

This is the energy I need to keep going by doing physical things

It is Saturday. I wind my clocks up and then decided to mow the lawn. But you know how it is, you can’t just go out to the lawn mower and start it up and mow the lawn. First I had to go buy gas. I buy 10 liters of gas and wouldn’t you know it I return from the gas station to find that I already had another half full 20 liter container tucked away in a corner of the garage.

Mowing a lawn is unnecessarily complicated. I have been mowing my lawn for 20 years and each time I mow it I look at it and decide, which pattern will I use this time? But I end up mowing it pretty much the same way every time. It is a tedious task; it is a mindless task but it needs to be done. But, you know, the lawn looks great after it is cut!

Clock collecting and repair is good for the mind and soul

Anyway, the point is that this is the energy I need to keep going by doing physical things. Even cutting the lawn allows me to think about life’s little problems and provides the exercise that I need. Winding clocks is great therapy because it gets me off the couch and off the internet which is a time-sucking monster. Repairing clocks takes less physical energy but much more mental energy that keeps the brain cells from drying up.

Looking for new clocks to acquire or repairing my clocks takes a certain level of both physical and mental energy. It is a good feeling. Unlike lawn cutting there is nothing about clock collecting and repair that is mindless or tedious, you have to think about everything you do, meet each challenge with the thought that I might even learn something new.

For example, faced with two identical Sessions time and strike movements each one might have very unique challenges like a worn escape wheel tooth on one or a broken mainspring on another. Or, faced with a decision to buy or not to buy I must weigh the cost against my desire to have that particular clock. These weighty decisions take a lot of mental energy.

Clock collecting and repair is good for the mind and soul. One of the things I enjoy most is facing a difficult challenge and seeing it through to the very end, stepping back and saying….yeah, I did that. Take my Junghans Crispi wall clock for example.

This is what it looked like when I first got it

I decided that I would do my best to fully restore this clock

My mission from the very beginning was to have a Victorian style showpiece. I imagined what it might eventually look like and decided that I would do my best to fully restore this clock. Yes, there were challenges working on the case and learning new ways to fashion complex pieces, stain, glue and so forth. There were also challenges addressing issues with the movement which had not been running in 100 years.

I made the difficult decision to bring the clock to a horologist that I have used in the past. Why, it had two issues that I could not fix because I do not have the proper tools. I decided that while it was in the shop instead of having those two issues addressed, why not have it serviced completely. The horologist who worked on the clock did a fantastic job. When I picked it up she was very curious about its history and remarked that it was the first style of clock she had ever worked on.

Was it worth the many hours and the money to bring this fine Victorian style clock back to its former glory? Absolutely, without question! The before and after photos of this clock constantly remind me that when I put my mind to something I can achieve a fantastic result and every time I look at it I feel a sense of immense achievement. It gives me energy!

Yes, clock collecting and repair is good for the mind and soul. It is clock therapy and it works!

August 25, 2017

The lantern clock

It would be wonderful to have this unique piece of horological history, an English lantern clock. I am trying to negotiate a price, the trouble is I do not want to pay much for it but I am afraid once the seller discovers that it is worth a lot of money it will be too rich for me.

french-fusee1 — Lantern clock converted to a fusee movement

Lantern clocks have a very interesting history going as far back as the 16th century. They are the first type of clock widely used in homes in England as the middle class began to prosper. There are many theories as to why it is called a lantern clock but because it was hung on a wall like a lantern usually on an ornate shelf the name stuck. Although some were made of steel almost all were made of brass. It is a wall clock with square bottom and top plates surmounted by a large bell, four corner pillars, a series of vertical plates positioned behind each other, an hour hand, and proportionately large clock dial, and a 30-hour movement with one or more weights.

Originally lantern clocks are weight driven and not barrel driven like this one. Seventeenth century and eighteenth century lantern clocks almost always have a single hand. This clock is a later date of manufacture or perhaps a conversion. Brian Loomes, a specialist clock dealer, in his book on lantern clocks traces their evolution from the early 1600 through the mid 1700 when they went out of style.

Early ones had a balance wheel escapement. Around 1660 the pendulum was created and these clocks used a verge escapement and then transitioned to a long pendulum around 1680. The dial plate engravings were particularity intriguing and often had the maker’s name.

frecnh-fusee-3 — Side view of fusee clock

The one you see here is either a fusee conversion made sometime in the 19th century or a 19th century copy of a lantern clock using a fusee movement. If it was a conversion additions such as the winding arbor hole and the minute hand were made when the “newer” movement was installed. There are two reasons why a clock would be converted, to stave off obsolescence (changing a clock from 30 hours to an 8-days) and to increase the accuracy of the clock. If converted the bell becomes ornamental. As the 8-day tall-case clock became popular in England the lantern clock began to disappear but continued to be made in the rural areas until the middle of the 18th century. Although many were discarded some, such as this one, were converted.

french-fusee1a — Usually there is a maker’s name on the clock face

POSTSCRIPT

Despite emails going back and forth, and active discussion on a fair price, the deal fell through. It is unfortunate since it would be been nice to have a interesting piece of horological history.

August 20, 2017

French Carriage Clock – servicing

There is no maker’s mark anywhere on the case or the movement

The clock is an unsigned 8-day carriage clock in a rectangular brass case. This attractive little clock has a white enameled dial with Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a spring driven time-only movement with platform lever escapement visible through the top beveled glass. The brass case has 4 beveled glass panels complete with a fold-down travel handle.

In taking the movement apart to clean it I can see “73” stamped on the bottom of the case, the case handle, the door edge and 2 or three places on the movement and the letter “B” on the back of the front plate but no maker’s mark. What do the numbers mean? I think it is an internal production stamp. Thousands of these generic carriage clocks were made and I may never know the maker. The only taper pins on this movement are those that attach the dial face to the movement. However, judging from what see and its general construction I would comfortably date this clock to the 1880s.

The movement plates are secured by screws rather than taper pins. Older carriage clocks would have taper pins securing the movement plates. This clock would have been produced for the English market since it has “S”and “F” stamped on the escapement (Slow and Fast). The key has “France” inscribed on it so if it is original, then the clock is French.

Time-only carriage clocks are relatively easy to work on although the platform escapement takes a extra care. I chose not to service the escapement at this time.

First, let the mainspring down to release the power. If you take a wound clock apart it can injure you. Some of the compression points between cogs can have a very high gearing so even a weakly wound clock has the capacity to trap or pinch your fingers as well as throwing out and damaging components. I use a let down key that can be purchased at any clock supply house.

Taking the movement out of the case involves releasing 4 machine screws in the base. I use several elastic bands to keep the glass in place while I lift the sides and door off the base. When holding the clock firmly observe the effect of loosening the screws. The pillars have become loose and the glass can now move a little in the frame. If you unscrew all the screws completely without understanding that the glass is loose, it is too easy for the glass panels to slide out and break. They are not easy to replace! I’ll describe my work on glass cleaning later.

There are two screws which hold the base to the movement. Unscrew those and proceed to take off the front face. The enameled face is secured by 4 taper pins. In my case they were difficult to get out so I decided to take the back plate off the movement to allow my pliers inside to release the pins. Removing the platform escapement requires releasing 4 very tiny screws. A precision slotted screwdriver is absolutely necessary. It is best to unscrew all 4 together and leave them in place once off the movement so you do not have to fiddle with them when reattaching the escapement later, unless, of course, you intend to service the escapement.

I then separate the plates and inspect the wheels, pinions, pivots and pivot holes. I found a little bit of play in two pivot holes only observable with a loupe but not enough for bushing work. I polished the pivots, pegged the pivot holes and cleaned the wheels, plates and other pieces except the platform escapement in the ultrasonic cleaner.

Assembly of the movement is relatively simple as there are so few gears. Attaching the hour hand was interesting, however. Both the hour and minute hands are pressure fit, but the hour hand was a challenge because I had to use a screwdriver to push the hour shaft forward (gently) through the clock face while simultaneously attaching the hour hand. It was very tight. After a number of tries I managed to press it in securely.

Back to the glass. It is also important to put each panel back where it belongs. I discovered that there is a top and bottom orientation to each glass panel, they are cut so fine! There is enough resistance if you try to put the wrong end into the channels you will encounter difficulty. Each glass panel is taken out and cleaned with Windex and, of course, put back exactly how they came out.

Once everything is assembled the clock is oiled, wound and the time is set. Polishing the brass case is the final step. Brasso was used to clean up the brass and bring the clock back to its former glory.

August 17, 2017

Low antique clock prices – are they here to stay

There is a peculiar phenomena happening in the clock world today and that is tumbling clock prices. French cartelle clocks, American jewelers regulators, original E. Howard and Willard banjo clocks to name a few have retained their value but clocks that would have sold for hundreds of dollars a few short years ago can be had for almost nothing today. It is not a great sellers market.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site — Rare Ingraham Huron shelf clock was once sought after by collectors

Prices will not rise any time soon as modern generations have been conditioned to discarding old for new irrespective of merit and in contradiction to the ideology that recycling saves the planet

Why are clock prices so low?

I have acquired some very nice clocks for ridiculously low prices. While it is part luck there is ample evidence that recent clock prices have never been lower.

There are so many clocks that no one seems to want. Gingerbreads, school house clocks, mantel clocks, Ogees (30 hour or one-day especially), calendar clocks and most garden variety clocks go for very low prices. Good for collectors, not so good for sellers. Prices will not rise any time soon as modern generations have been conditioned to discarding old for new irrespective of merit and in contradiction to the ideology that recycling saves the planet.

Millennials are also facing a very different world than I and my contemporaries faced. Factory work or clerical positions are now considered a good job and young people are staying with mom and dad living in their old rooms as they try to pay off mortgage size student loans. Under those circumstances you will not consider buying a tall case clock or an 18th century French clock.

Thanks but I have no place to put one

My generation (I am in my 60s) did not typically have mechanical clocks in their homes (aside from Grandfather and cuckoo clocks), so younger people today do not have those kind of memories to inspire nostalgia. In my day mechanical clocks were thrown in the trash when they wore out to make way for the electric clock. For young people today the old clocks we loved are not in their sights for purchase. An offer to gift a clock to a millennial is often met with the reply, “Thanks but I have no place to put one” and of course, winding it is always a hassle. A visit to any antique store or clock fair says it all when observations show the average age of visitors and traders are often in their “senior” years.

Junghans Crispi wall clock, not rare but a fascinating history

Prices of clocks really did not begin their rise in value (at least in North America) until the mid to late ’50’s. Since then and up until the late nineties many ordinary clocks commanded high prices. Since the year 2000, the economy has been spiraling downward. Paralleling the declining economy is the decline of prices for antiques of all types. The at-times spectacular and troubling declines in real estate values, increasing unemployment and fewer discretionary dollars have all had an deleterious effect on dropping clock values. With the up-tick in the economy perhaps things will change

I collect clocks and other antiques for interest and history alone

I collect clocks and other antiques for interest alone and only those I can afford which often means that I will try to buy a clock for as little as possible. Collecting in this way allows me the comfort in knowing that there is no worry about future rises or drops in value. I acquire clocks simply because I want them, and pay a price that is worth it to me. If I see something that I do not have, it is unique or has some historical value and it is a reasonable price (to me), I will buy it.

However, many of us collectors are aging and downsizing. Few are in buying mode and many want to sell. The result is a glut of often lesser quality clocks that were once bought at higher prices.

French mantel clock, a very nice clock at a ridiculously low price

Unless you are prepared to learn how to repair or somehow care for an old mechanical clock you are faced with the prospect that the cost of repair far exceeds the value of the clock. Sentimental reasons always trump repair costs but the message from the clock repair person with integrity is clear, “keep it, it is not worth the cost of repairing”.

Will prices get better? Prices for antiques and collectibles is cyclical and chances are that they will go up again.

August 13, 2017

Doesn’t all that ticking drive you crazy?

Circa 1890 French Black Marble mantel clock

No!

As a clock collector I have quite a few clocks in my home. Most are running daily. There are 34 clocks ticking away in my home as I write this blog article.

I have accepted them as normal sounds in my home

Some collectors have a dedicated clock room in their home but mine are scattered throughout the house. I try to arrange each one so that it fits more or less into the decor of the room. It is a big house and thankfully we have quite a few rooms in which I can display my clocks. I have all manner and styles of clocks including mantel, wall clocks, shelf clocks, carriage clocks, desk clocks, anniversary clocks but just one floor clock. My particular preference is wall clocks; I have 13 of them.

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock

Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator and Seth Thomas round top

Arthur Pequegnat Brandon in an upper hallway

Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock atop a Stromberg Carlson radio

So how do I put up with the cacophony of clock noises in the house? One, I thoroughly enjoy the sound of a mechanical clock and two, I have accepted them as normal sounds in my house.

However, there are rules in our house.

No striking or chiming clocks in or near the master bedroom.
No clocks in the bathrooms.
Clocks are stopped in those areas where guests are sleeping unless they do not object.

Are there clocks in the bedroom? Of course, three to be exact. Two are 400 day clocks like the one in the next photo and the third is a banjo clock.

9 inch 400 day Kundo clock — 9 inch miniature 400 day Kundo clock

The Ingraham Nordic banjo clock has a front-wind lever escapement and I would challenge anyone to hear this clock across a room. Is is no louder than an old alarm clock. The 400 day clocks are, of course, virtually silent.

We have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it

This is my advice to those of you who love mechanical clocks but are bothered by the “noise”:

Some clocks are loud tickers and some are not. As a general rule American clocks tend to be much louder tickers than German or French clocks. Loud clocks should be placed in noisy areas
Avoid clocks that have a striking or a chiming train. If you are not fond of the sound of an hourly or quarter hour strike clock, simply search for a time-only clock.
Most chiming clocks (Westminster chimes are the most common) have a shut-off feature located on the dial face.
For time and strike clocks simply wind the time side only. However, purists would say that this is not good for the clock.
Carriage clocks, clocks with lever escapements (like the Nordic above) and 400 day clocks are exceptionally quiet and do not normally strike or chime (however, some carriage clocks do strike).
Locate your clocks in an area where you will not be bothered by them, a dedicated room, for instance.
Stop your clock or never wind it. Perhaps you can appreciate your clock as a piece of art or furniture rather than as a timepiece.
For the nostalgic, run your clocks only at certain special times of the year.

I rarely hear my clocks. Yes, I am aware of the ticking if I stop and listen. By and large I am not at all bothered by the sounds of my clocks. In fact, we have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful bim-bam sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it.

August 3, 2017

Regulating your mechanical clock – its easier than you think

Regulating your clock is the process of making repeated, precise adjustments to its mechanism with the goal of enhancing its accuracy and ensuring it functions as a reliable timekeeper over an extended period.

The running of your mechanical clock is influenced by three key factors: neglect, friction, and the environment. These elements will determine whether your clock can maintain accurate timekeeping. The article ends with tips on regulating your clock and the effects of mainspring power on timekeeping.

Let’s look at each factor.

Neglect

Neglect is easy to understand: without proper care, a clock will lose its reliability as a timekeeper. Placing a clock in a sunny spot, especially in a hot window, can cause the case to age prematurely and dry out the movement. Setting a clock near a heat source, like a heating vent, can affect its performance. Transporting a weight-driven clock without securing the weights can result in broken case parts and shattered glass. Moving a pendulum clock without removing the pendulum can cause internal damage.

Additionally, turning the hands backward should be avoided unless the manufacturer specifically permits it in the clock’s instructions.

Preparing to wind a clcok using a winding crank — _{Using a winding crank}

Friction

Each moving part of a clock must be in optimal condition. The gear train should move freely, but excess friction will negatively impact the clock’s performance. Regular lubrication is crucial to prevent this. Friction causes wear, and over time, wear can lead to costly and time-consuming repairs. As bushing wear accelerates, the clock’s functionality will deteriorate, eventually causing it to stop.

_{Close-up of bushing wear; the pivot hole is oval when it should be circular}

It’s good practice to inspect your clock’s movement every year or two and add oil if the pivots are dry. If you notice a buildup of thick, dirty oil around the pivot holes during your inspection, it’s time to service the clock’s movement. This can be done either by you, if you have the necessary skills, or by a clock specialist.

Six bushings on back plate — _{Six bushings installed on the back plate of a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock movement}

Once the lubricating oil is used up or dries out the clock continues to run but the wheels are running without lubrication in their pivots holes. Once the pivot holes are enlarged (see above) the gears begin to run too deep into each other and the clock eventually stops. In clock circles the proper function of one gear operating with another, smoothly is referred to as “meshing”. Once wear becomes a factor, winding the springs no longer helps, as the springs lack sufficient power, or the gears fail to mesh properly, preventing them from overcoming friction in the gear train.

This leads some owners to think the clock is stopping due to being “over-wound,” when in reality, it’s simply worn out, or there is so much debris and dried oil in the mainspring that it sticks and refuses to unwind.

Preventative maintenance can help avoid costly repairs.

Servicing a clock is a separate topic altogether but black or green oil around or in the pivot holes is an indication that re-oiling will be ineffective; dis-assembly and cleaning of the movement is necessary.

Mixing old, dirty clock oil with new oil will speed up wear, and adding more oil won’t improve its performance.

Environment

Changes in the ambient temperature of your environment will affect it’s timekeeping rate. It is quite common to make seasonal adjustments to your clock. If you are in a temperate climate such as my part of the world, humidity, and temperature changes have a noticeable effect on the rate-keeping of any clock. Increasing the ambient temperature will slow it down, from the expansion and lengthening of the pendulum rod (unless it has a compensating type pendulum).

Clocks perform better in the more controlled environment of a home, but damp basements, window sills, bathrooms, areas above heating elements or vents, garages, and other humid spaces are unsuitable for mechanical clocks. Harsh environments can damage both the movement and the case, leading to issues like cracks, fading, and detached veneer in addition to a myriad of problems with the movement.

pendulum bob with adjuster — _{Pendulum bob with regulating adjustment}

Regulating your Mechanical Clock

Regulating a clock often means making incremental changes to the length of the pendulum by means of a rate adjustment screw located at the end of the pendulum, or as in the case of a French clock pendulum (above) a rating screw inside the bob. Turning the rating screw clockwise shortens the pendulum (faster) and counterclockwise lengthens (slower) it.

Usually, one full turn of the screw means adding or subtracting a minute per week. To simplify the process some clocks have a rate adjustment arbour on the dial, typically at the 12 o’clock position. That way you do not have to open the access door at the back of the clock to adjust the rating nut on the pendulum.

If you have a double-ended key, the smaller end is used for the rate adjustment arbour. The “S” (slow) and “F” (fast) settings correspond to adjusting the clock’s speed—slowing it down or speeding it up. Clocks may have either one of these adjustments, but sometimes both (adjustable pendulum and rate adjustment arbor), as on this French shelf clock.

Rate adjustment is a trial-and-error process and typically takes a week or longer. If you can adjust your mechanical clock within a minute or two per week you are doing well. You will gradually gain a feel for the kind of adjustment required to regulate your particular clock.

Clocks without pendulums are those that have lever escapements, floating balance escapements, or balance wheel escapements. Regulation is achieved by moving a lever from slow to fast (as indicated on a wheel for instance) or adjusting weights in one direction or another on the escape wheel. There are specific directions on how to this and it is best to consult the instruction manual on your clock or search for resources online.

Mainspring Power and Regulation

When winding a spring-driven clock you are winding a sturdy coiled metal spring. The mainspring is an energy storage system or a power source. When you turn the key the winding gets tighter until you cannot turn the key any further. This stored energy (or potential energy) is now ready to be released but because a clock has reduction gears and an escapement (method for energy to escape) the energy is designed to be released at a steady and controlled rate. The purpose of the gear train is to convert the slow rotation of the main wheel into the faster rotation needed to tell the time. Each wheel in the train turns faster than the previous one.

A spring-driven clock tends to release most of its energy at the beginning of a cycle and releases less energy towards the end of it’s winding cycle which is typically an 8-day period. Most clocks will run longer than eight days but will lose more time as the spring supplies less power.

Regulating some spring-driven clocks can be challenging due to the way they release their power, though this can vary depending on the clockmaker. If your vintage or antique spring-driven mantel or wall clock is accurate to within 1-2 minutes per week, it’s performing quite well.

_{Sessions Beveled No 2 tambour style clock and French carriage clock}

My Sessions time and strike tambour-style clock typically runs about one minute fast at the start of the week and around one minute slow by the end of the week. This is normal.

_{This one-weight Vienna wall clock is accurate to within 30 seconds a week}

On the other hand, weight-driven clocks are more accurate since they release power at a constant rate through the winding cycle. Weight-driven clocks are generally more reliable timekeepers and are easier to regulate.

Junghans Crispi wall clcok with compensating pendulum — _{Junghans Crispi wall clock with compensating pendulum}

Neglect, friction, and environmental factors play a significant role in a clock’s ability to keep accurate time. By ensuring proper maintenance, placing your clock in a location free from heat and humidity, and regularly checking for adequate lubrication, you can extend its lifespan, maintain its value, and enjoy dependable performance for years to come.

July 31, 2017

Profile My Clock: Seth Thomas Column and Cornice clock

Carole Ann Bennett of Ottawa, Canada asked me to profile her latest clock acquisition which was bought at auction and advertised as a triple-decker clock. It is, in fact, a column and cornice clock.

This lovely Seth Thomas time and strike eight-day weight-driven column and cornice clock with hour strike features a mahogany veneer case with cove molded crest, ¾ columns in painted gold and two reverse painted doors opening to the interior clock works which reveals a tin painted dial and the original printed and illustrated Seth Thomas clock makers label. It is 32″ tall, 18″ wide and 5“ deep.

The painted tin Roman Numeral dial has hand-decorated flower spandrels in all four corners with the centre portion of the brass lyre movement visible though the dial.

There is a small amount of chipping around the winding holes and face mounts. The hour and minute hands are in an Ogee style and original to the clock. The movement is clean and running well.

The upper tablet has a hand-painted fruit bowl framed within a clear rectangular section with an onion top surround by a gold laurel design. The lower tablet shows a headless eagle framed in an clear oval centre with clustered gold berry spandrels in all 4 corners and encircling the oval section is a gold wreath made of berries and leaves. The headless eagle has clawed feet, one holding a sheaf of arrows while the other holds what appears to be a holly bush. There are 13 stars above the wings presumably representing the original 13 colonies. There is the expected amount of flaking consistent with the age of the clock which seems to disappear when the doors are closed. The missing paint areas blend into the remaining design and look good in spite of the minor issues. A red banner runs through the centre. It appears to be a very loose interpretation of the eagle on the presidential seal.

My first impression is that the top and bottom tablets are not a match because of the different themes on each panel however the blue paint is identical.

It has a very good interior label with the name J. M. Paterson, Hamilton, Canada West which appears to have been pasted over an original label.

Canada West, previously known as Upper Canada, formed one-half of the British colony of the Province of Canada. The region was governed jointly along with Canada East (formerly Lower Canada) from 1841 to 1867, when Canada West became the province of Ontario under Confederation. This would put the clock between 1841 and 1867.

More research is required. Below the added label are instructions for the operation of the clock. It has newer 6 ¾ lb cast iron replacement weights which are correct for an eight-day clock. The pendulum is a replacement as the original would have had a rate adjustment screw as per the last line of the instructions.

Minor areas of paint around the main designs on the top and lower tablets are beginning to flake, however most of the original paintwork shows very well. The case has some scuffs and a little veneer chipping as one would expect. The deep grained mahogany veneer adds to the overall look of this big and beautiful shelf clock.

There are newer softwood strips attached by Robertson screws on the top and very bottom of the back of the case which appear to have been added either as a repair or to strengthen the case. There are 4 holes on the backboard just below the movement which may indicate the presence of an alarm mechanism at one time.

All in all it is a good looking clock that reflects the period and a fine acquisition.

July 28, 2017

Timezone clocks – keeping track of family across the country

It this day and age it is very common to have family scattered to the four winds. What time is it is such and such? Why not create timezone clocks? I live in Canada and I have one daughter in Calgary, Alberta, one of our mid-western provinces and one in Victoria, BC, on the west coast of Canada. We keep in touch with Skype and telephone and as I am working on my computer in the kitchen area of my home all it takes is one glance upwards to see what time it is in Calgary or Victoria.

This is my trio of clocks. The two on either side are eight inch while the centre clock has a 12 inch dial. The centre clock is a New Haven time and strike from the 1930s taken out of a decommissioned school house in Saskatchewan in the 1950s. My aim is to have three 8 inch dial clocks. Once I find another 8 inch time-only clock the New Haven will be replaced.

The clock on the left is a Waterbury Arion. It came to me without glazing and bezel but ordering a replacement was easy enough through a clock supplier, Perrin in Canada. While writing this blog I decided to touch-up the 7, 8, and 9 numerals. It is the quietest of the three clocks.

The one on the right is Sessions Drop Octagon. The dial face is in rough shape but I decided to leave it as-is. The clock came from a decommissioned schoolhouse in Springhill, Nova Scotia in the 1960s.

It is by far the noisiest of the three but you get used to the sound. All three will be time-only clocks, preferred if you are looking for the dedicated function of simply telling the time. Of the three my favorite is the Waterbury. Even with the “messed-up” dial face, it is the most accurate of the three and will run for 12-15 days on a single wind.

Keeping track of family all over the country is part of being a normal modern family and timezone clocks certainly help.

July 24, 2017

Junghans Crispi wall clock – from a clock-in-a-box to a clock that rocks!

This post describes the final detail work on my Junghans clock.

My winter (2017) project was an antique German Junghans Crispi time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was manufactured in Schwenningen, Germany in 1899. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it was the challenge I was waiting for.

A clock in a box, how it came to me originally — A clock in a box, how it came

I wrote a multi-part series on the restoration of this clock. Use the search feature on this site to find past articles. I discovered this antique clock from a seller on an online for-sale site in January (2017) and was intrigued with its incredible history as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion on Dec 6, 1917.

On the morning of 6 December 1917 the SS Mont Blanc a French cargo ship laden with high explosives and Benzol collided with the Norwegian vessel SS Imo in the Narrows, a strait connecting the upper Halifax harbour to Bedford Basin. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a large explosion that devastated the Richmond District of Halifax. Approximately 2,000 people were killed by blast, debris, fires and collapsed buildings, and an estimated 9,000 others were injured……and a Junghans clock fell off the wall in a house on Princess court, North End Halifax

At first I was not sure how far I would go with this project but I decided I must go all the way towards restoring this clock to its former 19th century glory.

Most of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, coil gong and movement bracket as are the bottom base and top part of the case plus the crown, the backboard, the vertical columns and most of the decorative trim. What has been replaced is the box frame, the front piece that supports the right and left columns. I can only assume that parts of the clock were destroyed beyond repair on that fateful day.

Thirty years ago the previous owner used contemporary materials and techniques to reconstruct the frame and front piece. Although not authentic, I have no objection for two reasons; much of what he has done is unseen and care was taken to replicate period woodworking techniques to reconstruct the case except for the Robertson screws. During the restoration process I have added or in some cases made:

Front glass and 2 side glass panels,
3 glass support rails,
3 top replacement finals,
2 newly constructed top finial bases,
2 brass door hinges,
2 brass door catches,
2 brass case stabilizers,
2 hardwood trim pieces and
6 decorative buttons.

I disassembled the movement and in the process made two errors. In my attempt to re-position the star wheel paddle by bending it just a little bit, I managed to snap it off. Although I might have been able to fix it I do not have the tools, yet! I also managed to snap off the paddle wheel arbor spring which is essentially a thin steel rod. Again, I could have fixed it if I had the tools. As a result the strike side did not function. I cleaned and re-assembled the movement, got the movement running and thought, what is my next move?

Very dirty movement; after all it had not been running in years

I might have been content with a time-only clock but I decided that my mission was to have it fully restored. I decided to bring the clock to a horologist that I have used in the past. While it was in the shop, why not have it serviced completely. The horologist did a great job and when I picked it up she remarked that it was the first style of clock she had ever worked on.

What remains? There are two trim item on the left side just below one of the buttons as you can see in the photo below and a corner piece on the right side of the case in the same area.

Let’s see if my skill with router can address these issues.

I took out my vintage Black & Decker router and managed to find the correct bit. Since it is a very small trim piece birch rather than oak would do. I made the measurements using my micrometer. The dimensions had to be precise in order to duplicate the trim piece exactly. I am very pleased with the result. Now for the right side.

I made a corner piece out of birch and glued it in place. In the next two photos you can see the very small piece that fits into the corner trim.

I am very pleased with the repair.

I posted a reference to this clock in one of my blogs and received a curious letter from someone who thought it was a Chinese clock. I fully understand the comment because the clock is so “blingy”. The many brass buttons and trim items might make one think that it was made in China. It simply reflects the Victorian era, a grand excess of ornament and an eclectic revival of historic styles mixed with middle east and Asian influences in furniture design. A Chinese clock? No, but an understandable error.

It is a clock that will be in our family for years to come

Was it worth the hours of toil and the money to bring this Victorian style clock back to its former glory? Absolutely, without question! The clock works perfectly. The coil gong on the hour and half hour sounds terrific and resonates throughout the house. Visitors to my home are immediately drawn to the clock because of its unique Victorian style. Indeed, it is a clock that will be in our family for years to come.

From a clock in a box to a clock that rocks.

July 21, 2017

A suggested list of items

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This is perhaps the dirtiest movement I have ever worked on

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I have never paid more that 30CDN for one but I see these clocks selling on EBay and other online for-sale sites at twice and three times what I typically pay

When I tested it, I spun the balls about a full turn and it continued to spin back and forth for several minutes. From my understanding these things are supposed to go for a whole day without being spun again. I think it might need to be cleaned for it to do that.

The string still looks good; the cover is cracked a little where it connects to the clock but isn’t falling off.

The old spring was snapped off just above the bottom block and unfortunately it was not re-usable

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I thought, I might have found something important

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People are embracing old technology and returning to the fulfillment of doing things for themselves

Simplicity breeds complexity

Like the juggler who can keep all the balls in the air at once

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At first I thought they were identical

I would estimate that they were both made sometime after the First War

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Clocks with a Dutch motif reflected a popular trend in the 1950s and 60s perhaps in recognition of Canada’s close relationship with the Dutch people since the war years

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Always and I mean always ask for a discount

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Winding Mechanical clocks

Why Key Size Matters

Different Types of Keys

Grandfather and Ogee Clocks

Storing Your Clock Key

Key Size Chart

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This is the energy I need to keep going by doing physical things

Clock collecting and repair is good for the mind and soul

I decided that I would do my best to fully restore this clock

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There is no maker’s mark anywhere on the case or the movement

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Prices will not rise any time soon as modern generations have been conditioned to discarding old for new irrespective of merit and in contradiction to the ideology that recycling saves the planet

Thanks but I have no place to put one

I collect clocks and other antiques for interest and history alone

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I have accepted them as normal sounds in my home

We have a Mauthe box clock in our family room that makes such a wonderful sound that I actually pause the TV to listen to it

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Neglect

Friction

Environment

Regulating your Mechanical Clock

Mainspring Power and Regulation

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