In my past life I was a community college instructor. My students ranged in age from age 20 and beyond but most were around the early 20s.
For years I had an analogue clock just above my office door. I often met with students but when I was pressed for time (not meaning to be rude) I would casually glance at the clock over the office door rather than look at my wristwatch. One day I asked a student what time we should meet again. They said, “well, what time is it now?” I said, the clock is right there, pointing to my office clock. They looked at it quizzically and said, “I can’t tell the time from that”, “I never learned”. What I heard hit me like a ton of bricks and this was a very bright student.
The big hand is on the left
The biggest difference between the Millennials and their predecessors is in how they view the world
We talked.
Me: Where is the small hand pointing?
Them: What do you mean, small hand?
Me: I pointed out the difference between the long and the short hand, the long indicating the minutes and the short, the hours.
Them: Between 3 and 4.
Me: So that means it is 3 something. Where is the long hand pointing?
Them: On the 6.
Me: What’s 5 times 6?
Them: 30.
Me: So it’s 3:30. Simple.
Them: Oh!
Are smart phones destroying our present generation? Is the digital age having a deleterious effect on our young people? Many scholarly articles and vigorous debate attempt to explore how the present generation thinks and as you would expect there are many theories.
It’s no wonder that analogue mechanical clocks are hitting their lowest price levels in years
As a community college instructor I should have been aware of generational differences and the impact that smart phones and the digital world have had on our present generation. I was making assumptions that how we learned way back when was very much like how young people learn today. Boy, was I wrong! The biggest difference between the Millennials and their immediate predecessors and even my generation is in how they view the world; young people today differ from previous generations not just in their views but in how they perceive the world around them as sound-bytes, fleeting images and instant messages. The experiences they have every day are radically different from my generation.
The little hand is between the twelve and the one
Time for them takes on a different dimension. Time is at the same time important yet unimportant. Time for young people is not measured in imprecise phrases like “about a quarter to”. It has a certain curious precision that is at odds with my generation (1950s and 1960s). What time is it? To them the time is precisely “seven thirteen”, not “half past” or ” a quarter past”. And don’t get me going on fractions!
In the following months all the clocks on the college campus were replaced with digital versions. One day I had a conversation with the facilities manager and he said, “we took them all down because the students can’t read them”. It brought me back to my conversation with the student and I completely understood.
I collect antique analogue clocks and it makes me sad there there is a generation, and perhaps future generations going forward who will not appreciate the beauty and utility of the that “old fashioned” analogue clock. Will these clocks be lost to a generation who feel that they are completely irrelevant? I hope not!
It’s no wonder that analogue mechanical clocks are hitting their lowest price levels in years. Case in point. I bought an circa 1835 Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse column and splat 30 hour clock at an auction recently and paid just 30CDN (24USD).
Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse ogee and splat 30-hour clock, bought at recent auction
To this generation analogue clocks (and antique clocks for that matter) are meaningless, unnecessary and pointless.
But to us old folks they continue to have a certain charm that cannot be explained, well, to young people, anyway!
Clocks have been more than just timekeepers throughout history; they are reflections of art, culture, and technological innovation. Whether for practical use or decorative appeal, clock styles have evolved to match the tastes, craftsmanship, and technologies of their times. Here’s a look at some of the most iconic and varied clock styles.
The clock is an instrument designed to keep and indicate time. It is one of the oldest human inventions. The clock has evolved through the ages from sundials in ancient times to early tower clocks of the 14th century weight-driven clocks and finally spring-driven clocks from the 1840s to the 1970s.
The world of mechanical clocks encompasses a wide variety of styles, and distinguishing between them can often be confusing—such as understanding the difference between a shelf clock and a mantel clock. In this article, I’ll navigate through these terms and highlight the most common styles or types, using examples from my own clock collection to illustrate them.
Mantel Clock
Many auction sites and even professional websites use the word mantle. The correct terminology is “mantel”. A mantle is a shawl or coat worn by women, an important role passed on from one person to another or the earth’s crust. A mantel is the top framing of a fireplace or a shelf above a fireplace opening.
A mantel clock is designed to fit on top of a fireplace or shelf. A mantel clock can be time only, time and strike, or a chiming clock. Generally, if there are 2 winding arbours it is a time and strike clock, if the clock has 3 winding arbours is it a chiming clock that is, it will play a tune on the quarter hours, the most common being the Westminster chime.
Mantel clocks might also be referred to as shelf clocks or buffet clocks.
Kitchen Clock
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Kitchen clocks are often referred to as gingerbread clocks or parlour clocks. At times, it can be difficult to differentiate between a kitchen clock and a parlour clock. Gingerbread clocks are distinctive because their designs are typically created by steam-pressing the wooden front face. However, some clocks, like the one above, are made using a powered cutting saw but are still classified as kitchen clocks. Additionally, some of these clocks included alarm mechanisms. The terms gingerbread, kitchen, and parlour are often used interchangeably.
Another type of kitchen clock is shown below. This is an 8-day time-only delft wall clock made by Forestville.
Delft Clock from ForestvilleE. N. Welch Whittier model
A parlour clock is generally considered more ornate than a kitchen clock, although it may still be referred to as a kitchen clock. It is placed in front hallways, entryways, and so on. The designs are always cut and there may be finials, a mercury-filled pendulum or very ornate design, garish trim pieces, and a decorative tablet.
Vienna Regulator
Gustav Becker two-weight Vienna regulator
There are many styles but most are of the single-weight or two-weight variety. The definition of a Vienna regulator is always open to debate but the consensus among collectors is that they are weight-driven, made in Austria/Germany, ornate in design, have porcelain dials, decorative crowns, large pendulums, and finials on the top and bottom.
The broad definition of Vienna Regulator includes those that are spring-driven. Though not defined as “regulators” it is acceptable among collectors to refer to them as a Vienna style.
Cottage Clock
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
Sometimes called a mantel clock or a shelf clock, they are usually diminutive in size to occupy a smaller space. They are found in bedrooms and kitchens and are sturdily built since they are often designed to be portable. They come in time only, time and strike, or may have an alarm function.
Carriage Clock
French Carriage Clock
Carriage clocks are portable and were very popular around the turn of the 20th century. French-made carriage clocks are more collectible and fetch generally higher prices although American ones can be quite desirable. Carriage clocks are designed to be portable and are time-only but some are time and strike (with a repeater function) while others may have an alarm function.
Crystal Regulator
Ansonia Crystal Regulator
Crystal Regulator clocks are identified by a brass case with 4 crystals or glass panels. Porcelain dials, Roman or Arabic numerals, ornate in design but sometimes quite garish. Most are 10-12 inches in height though some are smaller. Makers are American and French though French crystal regulators are called four-glass clocks and tend to have higher value. Distinctive by their mercury or faux mercury pendulums. Some have visible Brocot escapements and the time and strike movements are always visible.
Cuckoo Clock
Cuckoo clock
These clocks are pendulum-regulated and make an automated sound like a cuckoo when it strikes the hours. Some can be very intricate with several animated characters. Desirable ones are antiques from the Black Forest region of Germany. Modern ones are generally frustrating to repair, cheaply built, and are poor timekeepers.
Lantern Clock
Converted lantern clock
A lantern clock is a type of antique weight-driven wall clock, shaped like a lantern. They were the first type of clock widely used in private homes. They probably originated before 1500 but only became common after 1600 and in Britain, around 1620. They became obsolete in the 19th century. The one pictured above has been converted into a fusee movement.
Alarm Clock
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
Alarm clocks are wound once per day and designed to do two things, wake you and display the time. They are cheap, and are average timekeepers but have long-lasting and reliable movements.
Desk Clock
Kienzle World Time clock
These sat on fancy office desks or credenzas in office locations. They are either time-only or time-and-strike. Most were time-only to minimize distractions in the office environment. Some are very attractive and have unique designs and are more decorative than utilitarian. This one above is called a World Time Clock by Kienzle.
Wall Clock
German Mauthe Box clock
A wall clock is broadly defined as any clock designed to be hung on a wall, making it a practical and visible timekeeping solution. Wall clocks come in various styles, from simple and functional designs to highly decorative pieces. This one by Mauthe is often described as a German “box” clock which became popular after the First World War and made into the 1940s.
Schoolhouse Clock
Ansonia schoolhouse clock
They are known as schoolhouse clocks because they hung in many schoolrooms in North America. Usually distinctive by their octagon shape and short or long drop feature with a glass door displaying a swinging pendulum. Many thousands were made; they had cheap mass-produced softwood cases and robust movements. Most were time-only though some were time and strike and others even included a calendar function.
When they were marketed years ago they were not called “schoolhouse clocks” but rather, clocks made for the schoolroom.
Novelty Clock
Chairman Mao Zetong waving as the clock ticks
These clocks are designed for the tourist trade with interesting features. In the case of the above clock, a smiling Mao Zedong has his little red book in hand and is waving “to the masses” as the clock ticks.
Ogee Clock
Waterbury OG clock
It is so-called because of the curved molded wood case. It might also be referred to as an OG clock. The design originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (Ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the Ogee clock typically stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were generally made of brass (earlier ones were made of wood) and ran for 30 hours or eight days. This is a 30-hour weight-driven version from the 1870s.
Tall Case Clock
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, Westminster chime
Tall case clocks are known by various names depending on the region. They are referred to as tall-case clocks in American terminology, long-case clocks in British terminology, hall clocks in Canada, and sometimes as floor clocks. However, the most commonly used term is “grandfather clock.”
They are usually weight-driven, with the weights on chains or cables, and are distinctive by their obvious height. They are always 6 feet or over but can be as high as 8 feet high (1.8 to 2.4 meters). They often feature elaborately carved ornamentation on the hood (or bonnet), the frames, the throat, and the dial or clock face. Older ones have 30-hour movements but all modern grandfather clocks run on an 8-day cycle.
Smaller clocks are called grandmother and granddaughter clocks. They are under 6 feet.
Anniversary Clock
Kundo standard size 400-day clock
These clocks are also called torsion clocks or 400-day clocks. 400-day clocks are torsion driven having a long suspension spring to which a weight oscillates back and forth. Typically these clocks operate at 8 beats per minute and run for long cycles on a single wind, up to 400 days. These clocks were popular as wedding gifts or gifts to mark special occasions. They are relatively simple to repair but can be finicky to set up. The newer quartz clocks are very accurate but do not replace the charm and curiosity of the older mechanical ones.
Some might call them purely decorative.
Tower Clock
Tower clock in Holguin, Cuba
In the early 14th century large mechanical clocks began to appear in the towers of Italian cities. There is no record of any working models preceding these public clocks that were weight-driven and regulated by verge-and-foliot escapements. They are referred to as Turret clocks in the UK.
In conclusion, while there are sub-categories for some of the clocks described above, this overview provides a general understanding of the commonly used terms. Having this knowledge can be especially helpful when shopping for a special gift or identifying the style of clock you may have in your possession.
Okay, there are 9 hours left on the bid for this Vienna striking clock and it is at 104GPB (178CDN) so it could go a lot higher. But 257CDN for shipping!!! Factor in the exorbitant shipping cost and import duties (~40CDN) you are now looking at close to 300CDN + the clock. I suppose as a seller you gotta make your money somehow!
Mini Ogee by New Haven, the gaps in the door indicate that the front was once veneered and later stripped
This spring driven 30 hour New Haven Ogee clock is a loud ticker and rapid striker so distinctive that I can hear the ticking outside the room it is in like a mischievous puppy who wants to remind you where it is.
Judging from other New Haven clocks I have researched from this period, 1875 seems to be the approximate date of manufacture. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm); a small ogee styled clock some would call a mini.
The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive
The New Haven clock Co. has had a long and illustrious history. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company bought out a competitor’s company, the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand.
In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and is succeeded by Edwin P. Root.
In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returns to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.
The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes have declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960.
Coiled gong – a replacement from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.
This 30 hour New Haven Ogee looks good from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number notable issues. The movement appears original to the case and the case is in fair condition having been reconditioned at one time. Although the sides of the clock are veneered, the veneer on the front has been stripped off presumably because there was too much loss/damage. There is also some veneer loss on the top right side. Crude chisel marks on the left front indicate that the veneer in that area might have been more difficult to strip off. Unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering the front. From a distance it still looks good and the casual observer will hardly know the difference.
The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to the right. I can only surmise that the original gong somehow broke. This gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert.
New Haven 30 hour movement, back plate
30 hour movement – front plate showing factory installed oil cups
There are oil sinks on the front but not the back plate. The sinks on the front plate are stamped by the factory and were made to look like a more expensive clock since most would not see the rear plate. An odd decision by the manufacturer but a common practice.
Side view of 30 hour movement showing count wheel and cam wheel
The plates are pinned (rather than the newer bolts or screws) and there are two solid gear wheels suggesting that it is an earlier version of this particular 30 hour movement. The suspension spring and leader are a replacement as expected given the age of the clock. The pendulum bob is a replacement and so is the dial face.
I took the movement from its case, inspected it for wear and applied clock oil. The clock is running well and does not require immediate servicing.
The clock is a mere reflection of its former self but not unattractive.
I have an elegant Grandfather clock in Cherry wood and works perfectly! Daniel Dakota with gold finish. It is 38″ high with no scratches. Looks Brand New! Westminster Chimes every hour. Works with batteries. Beautiful triple pendulum.
38″ high (97 cms) for a grandfather clock! Now that’s really “stretching” the definition of a grandfather clock. And what’s a triple pendulum?
Mercedes makes a great car. Do they make clocks? No! Is this Mercedes novelty timepiece a great clock? Read on.
Attractive ceramic clock with time-only movement
This very attractive 30-hour Mercedes ceramic mechanical shelf clock of the Baroque Meissen style (debatable) from the 1970s is more of a novelty item than a clock.
It is a time-only alarm clock movement made by Gebrüder Hauser and marketed under several names one of which is Mercedes. Ceramic clocks on eBay or any other auction sites will reveal the Mercedes name as well as other retail names on similar-looking clocks. For example here is a similarly styled Alana clock. Same casting sans gold detailing.
The Alana, similar to Mercedes but without the gold-colored accents
This Mercedes novelty clock is in excellent condition with no chips, cracks or any sign of wear. But is it worth anything? Not a lot.
History of the company
The Gebrüder Hauser clock factory (Die Uhrenfabrik Gebrüder Hauser) was founded in 1923 by Otto and Josef Hauser in Weigheim, Germany. Josef Hauser resigned in 1926 and moved on to form his own company. The company name Gebrüder Hauser then received an additional owner, Otto Hauser.Aside from alarm clocks, clocks with pendulums and chess clock works were produced.
Spring winder, time set screw and speed lever on rear of the clock
In 1951, the son, Eduard Hauser joined the company.From 1955 onward small affordable alarm clocks and chess clockworks were manufactured.In 1965 Norbert Hauser joined the company and the company name was changed to KG.
The Gebrüder Hauser KG clock factory in Weigheim was eventually closed on 31 July 1998.
Are they common?
There are a number of variants of this clock, mechanical, electrical, and quartz. The mechanical version will command higher prices and is more desirable. Unfortunately, they are throwaway clocks and the cost of servicing would be far more than they are worth.
Nevertheless, it makes for an attractive mantelpiece and as a gift, it is likely the recipient will not keep it wound.
This is a very nice reproduction grandfather clock top. Quartz movement, pretty dial and nice chimes. Good working order and no need to wind! Keeps good time. This looks lovely on a mantel, top of book case or on a desk. Bottom case was broken in a freak wheel chair accident, but a new one could be fashioned by someone with the time and a bit of wood working experience. Just don’t have the time to do it! $40.00.
What happens if you service a clock and let it sit without running it? What happens if the clock is not run and stored for a year, does the oil dry out? Is it better to run the clock once a month to get the oil moving? If the clock is sitting for a year should I refresh the oil before running the clock? These are all good questions. I will attempt to answer each one.
Unfortunately, most people let their clocks run until they start to show signs of needing servicing
It largely depends on where the clock is located. Environment should always be a consideration in whether to run your clock constantly, or not. Is it in a smoke and dust free environment? Can the humidity be controlled? Are there pets? Pet hair can find its way into the strangest places.
Mauthe mantel clock with Westminster chime
I like to check all of my clocks on a 2 year schedule. If all looks well, I may not do anything except look it over and add oil where necessary. I might repeat this for 4, even 6 years before signs of wear show up. Or, there may be signs of wear at the first check at 2 years. If wear is evident, I might note it and monitor it several months later and address the wear at that time. This approach will keep your collection in good shape with a minimum amount of work. If there are pets in the home you may want to inspect your clocks at more regular intervals. If the clock is sitting for a year without running should I refresh the oil before running the clock? Yes, but only if there is no or very little evidence of oil in the pivot holes.
However, a clock that is allowed to sit dormant for one year should be essentially as you left it. If you used a good quality oil, an oil specifically designed for clocks, it should not break down over the course of one year. A thin coat of quality oil in an unused clock will disappear over about 4 years with little or no trace of residue and that is the time that it needs re-oiling. The buildup of sludge often seen is the end result of repeated over-oilings over the course of many years.
I know collectors who run a small number of their clocks daily but some intermittently, perhaps once or twice a month or a year, enough to keep the wheels and the oil moving. I have some specialized clocks that I will run only occasionally like my Kienzle World Clock in order to lessen the wear but keep the parts moving. Why? This a very frustrating clock to service and I want to extend the service interval as long as possible.
Kienzle World Time clock
Getting back to the home environment I should mention mention that concentrations of some indoor pollutants are often 2 to 5 times higher than typical outdoor concentrations. In environments with air born particulates, tobacco smoke and animal dander your clock should be sealed properly by making sure that access doors/panels are closed, that broken dial glass is replaced, large holes in the clock cases are sealed and clocks are away from areas of the house that produce higher amounts of dust and humidity (kitchens and bathrooms).
Unfortunately, most people let their clocks run until they start to show signs of servicing and at that point repairs can be costly if you are not doing the work yourself.
Taking good care of your timely treasure will reward you with years of service.
30-hour Waterbury Ogee with a beautiful veneered case
This 30 hour Ogee clock was purchased in the fall of 2017. I was eager to add this clock to my collection as it is the one particular style of clock that I do not have. From my research on Waterbury clocks I determined that it was made in or around 1870.
I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling; not ideal but reversible
While the case is in remarkable condition for the age of the clock the movement has suffered the ravages of time.
Simple 30 hour movement, top plate removed
Testing over the course of a day or so revealed that clock would not run for more than a few minutes. The movement was taken out of its case and inspected to determine what needed to be done to get it to running condition.
I expected punch marks and there were a number. In the old days clock-makers would attempt to address pivot wear by closing the pivot holes with a stake or punch. Not ideal but a common practice. Bushing work was definitely required. The pivots, on the other hand, were in very good shape and polished up nicely.
Punching the bushing home
My first task was to address the bushings. Ten bushings were installed, 5 on each plate. The front bushing work included the escape wheel bridge, always a challenging spot to bush. Next I addressed the other serious wear issue – the trundles on all of the lantern pinions.
Lantern pinions on the escape wheel
The trundles on the lantern pinions were in bad shape as you can see in the photo above. The wear seen here was identical on all 4 lantern pinions. Notched trundles were not what I expected.
The trundle work was certainly the most interesting part of the repair. My experience with lantern pinion work is zero. After some research the method I selected was to hand drill through the top shroud to release the worn trundles.
Drilling through the shroud to release worn trundles; I used a smaller bit than the one pictured here
After releasing the worn trundles I used 1.10mm pivot wire which is ideal for this purpose and matched the worn trundles precisely.
Test fitting of pivot wire before the wire is cut to proper length
I began with the fly. I drilled into the top shroud. I then cut 1.10mm pivot wire into the required lengths then rounded the ends with a cut-off disc on a Dremel. After the fly was completed I addressed two more lantern pinions in the same way. I staked the shroud ends to seal the trundles inside.
With three done the escape wheel lantern pinion was next and that is when I ran into a snag. The escape wheel shroud is reversed (see photo below), so I cannot drill into the top shroud without a lot of guess work. Using needle nose pliers I decided to turn the worn trundles inward and seal them with Permatex (medium strength thread-locker) so they are fixed rather than rolling. This is not ideal but it is reversible.
There does not appear to be a definitive answer as to whether the trundles should be free-moving or fixed although I suppose they are designed to roll with the gear teeth. At some future point the trundles on this wheel will need to be replaced.
So, how do you get at those trundles?
The clock did not come with a pendulum bob so, a new one was attached. The suspension spring and leader was replaced to address a crimped spring that resulted in a wobbling pendulum bob. I used .09mm suspension spring in the correct length. The clock now runs well and it has completed a number of 30-hour cycles.
I suspect that this will be a clock that will not be run daily, the inevitable hassle of constantly winding a 30 hour clock but I am pleased that it is back in running order and I will ensure that is runs on special occasions.
I am a retired educator living in Nova Scotia Canada. I collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest, interesting clocks and clock stories when I search for new acquisitions.
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back
Baby Ben alarm clock with seconds hand
In the spring of 2015 I began my journey into blogging. The first few months of writing about clocks, clock collecting and repair were very challenging. How could I interest those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but have just a passing interest? As time went by I began to realize that there was plenty to write about, that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and that there is much to learn.
This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the knowledge gained from those experiences.
Cuckoo clock
As I write this article my blog has over 49,000 total views, 33% from United States, 17% from Canada and the remainder from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries. The top 5 articles this year were:
Mauthe Mantel Clock
Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
What is my clock worth?
How to wind a mechanical clock
U.M. Muller Box Clock
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. In the past year alone viewership has doubled. My visitors average 1.8 articles per visit with an average of 88 views on a typical day in 2017. November and December peaked at 100+ views per day.
Swiss made smoothing broaches
Providing enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return is always a challenge. I post 7 articles a month, sometimes one or two extra, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest. I also inject historical horological context as much as possible.
I receive about 30+ comments per month on average. All comments and inquiries are welcomed. Interesting comments come from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, strategies for repair and information about the history of their clock. All questions are answered to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock, circa 1870
In 2018 my intent is to continue to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as profiling my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also plan to explore special areas of interest.
Future articles include, “Letting a clock sit without running”, “Mercedes clock – not made by the car folks”, my 4th Arthur Pequegnat clock, a second installment of the Waterbury Ogee 30 hour clock, a mini New Haven Ogee that has some curious modifications, how to set up your grandfather clock, “What style clock do I have?” and more Crazy Clock Ads.
Ingraham Huron mantel clock circa 1878
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock
Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note. If you like what you are reading express “Like” it at the end of each article.
Thanks for your comments, your encouragement and your continued support.
You can still buy a brand new Westclox today and few people realize that the company was a pioneer alarm clock manufacturer.
Baby Ben alarm clock
This is a nondescript Baby Ben clock; thousands were sold but unlike older alarm clocks made in the USA and made and/or assembled at the Peterborough plant in Ontario (Canada), this one was made in China.
The Baby Ben has had a long and interesting history. The Baby Ben movement was originally marketed in 1910 and first nationally advertised in 1915. The 5-year delay occurred because the company was going through organizational changes and it took 3 years to improve the reliability of the Baby Ben movement.
An early Baby Ben, the Westclox LaSalle alarm clock
In 1912 Westclox opened a sales office in Toronto, Canada as part of its policy to establish world markets. Between 1920 and 1922 production began at the plant in Peterborough, Canada. At that time parts were shipped from the LaSalle-Peru plant for final assembly in Canada. Unfortunately, there is no information on which clock parts were made in Canada and which parts were manufactured in the Peterborough plant through the years.
Thousands of Baby Ben alarm clocks were manufactured and sold through the 1920s to the 1970s. In the early 1980s production in Canada ceased. “Westclox” and “Big Ben” trademarks were acquired by Salton Inc. in 2001. In October 2007, Salton sold its entire time products business, including the Westclox and Ingraham trademarks, to NYL Holdings LLC, which, to this day sell clocks under the Westclox name. In addition to clocks the company’s line of business also includes the wholesale distribution of jewelry, precious stones and metals, costume jewelry, watches, and silverware.
Baby Ben alarm clock with second hand
Back controls
I have not had the chance to look inside this alarm clock but from its style and other design elements it is from about 2001 when production shifted to China under General Time Corporation, parent company of Westclox, just prior to the sale to Salton and before quartz clocks entered the mainstream. It is the Style 10 Baby Ben with radial numerals and a sweep second hand.
This example is still working and keeping good time. I bought it to study the Baby Ben movement.
Though every bit as reliable as the older American and Canadian alarm clocks it is unfortunate that we lost this segment of the industry to the Chinese. For more information on the history of Big Ben and Baby Ben clocks you can go here called appropriately enough, Westclox History.
During the early days of the industrial revolution a certain practice lasted well into the 20th century. These were days before alarm clocks were affordable and reliable when workers had to rely on professions that we would not think would ever have been considered mainstream work.
One of these professions was the person whose job it was to wake people up. The profession is sometimes referred to as the knocker-upper. It was the job of the knocker-upper to make sure people got to work on time. Large numbers of these persons worked in the industrial centers of England and Scotland where the poor could not afford their own watches.
They were often women or the elderly but occasionally police constables would work as knocker uppers to supplement their income. Aided with a long stick the knocker upper would tap on the bedroom window and proceed to the next customer’s house. He or she would not dawdle, 3 or 4 taps and they would be swiftly on their way. Other methods were often used; a rattle, or soft hammers and even pea shooters.
With a long stick the knocker upper would tap 3 or 4 times
My how times have changed. How do you get yourself up in the morning?
Probably housed an English bracket clock at one time. Case measures 15″ wide 17″ high and 7″ deep, one tiny bit of trim is missing., wood has great aged patina. $275
Ridgeway Hamilton Country, now owned by the Howard Miller group of companies
You’ve decided on a new location for your grandfather clock. Now it is time to set it up.
Before you do anything ensure that the clock is level and preferably on a hard surface. Wood floors are great but carpeted floors are not optimal. There are 4 leveling wheels or points on the bottom of the clock. Using a spirit level spin the leveling wheels or points counterclockwise or clockwise to achieve a perfectly levelled clock. If you wish to screw the case to the wall to stabilize it, this can now be done as long as it is standing straight up and not leaning backwards. Stabilizing the case also reduces sympathetic vibration.
Steps for setting up your clock
Release the chains or cables that were bundled during transport.
Hook the weights. If you had marked them or if they have location direction on the bottom (L, C, R; “L” for left, “C” for centre and “R” for right) ensure that the correct weight goes where it should. The weights are not the same although they may look identical. On most modern grandfather clocks each weight provides the motive power necessary to operate the time, chime and strike trains of your grandfather clock. The manufacturer has determined that a weight powered by an exact number of lbs will affect how the clock will run. For example, the chime train requires a specific weight. If the weight is too light the chimes will run slowly or not at all. Generally speaking, the heaviest weight goes on the far right side chime train, as it needs more power to run the chime hammers.
Pull the weights up if your clock has chains or use a winding crank to bring the weights up if equipped with cables. For a properly striking and chiming grandfather clock the weights will more or less descend at the same time. Check through the side vents that the cables are not tangled. A tangled cable will stop the clock.
For cables: not only check to make sure that the weight is hooked but the cable is also in the cable pulley.
Release the chiming rods by carefully pulling off the protective Styrofoam or cardboard.
Return the side vents or access panels that slot in from the inside. They will drop into their channels.
While holding the pendulum guide with one hand (using cotton gloves), slip the pendulum in through the front door with your other hand an place the pendulum hook over the pin or through the slot on the pendulum guide, and lower the pendulum until it is hanging securely on the pendulum guide.
The pendulum rod hooks onto the suspension springLyre pendulum
Let the Grandfather Clock operate for ten minutes until the pendulum settles into an even swinging motion. An even swinging motion means that there is an equal time between the tick and the tock. In clock terms, it means that the clock is in beat.
Reinstall any decorative ornaments such as finials that friction fit into their respective holes.
If your clock has a moon phase dial: To set the moon dial, apply slight pressure with your fingers to the front of the moon dial. Rotate the moon dial clockwise until the moon is positioned according to the current moon phase. Never force it, it should move easily. If the moon dial will not rotate wait 6 hours and try again. As long as the grandfather clock operates it will display the correct moon phase. If the clock stops for more than a day the moon dial will have to be reset.
Moon phase dial is adjustable by carefully moving it clockwise
Although some grandfather clock instructions say that you can move the hands backwards, it is not a method I would advocate. Never move the hour hand. The hour hand will move with the minute hand. The hour hand is a friction fit and moving it will knock the hourly strike out of sequence. By moving the minute hand Clockwise it is not necessary to wait for the Grandfather Clock to chime as the minute hand passes each quarter-hour. The movement has a self-correcting feature that synchronizes the chimes with the time. If the clock does not synchronize, give the clock an hour or so before making any further adjustments.
If the clock does not strike or chime, make sure that the silencer lever switch is in the “chime” position.
Allow the clock to acclimatize to the new environment before regulating the movement. A clock that is regulated keeps the correct time. Regulation is achieved by turning a screw on the bottom of the pendulum bob. Turning the screw clockwise will make the clock go faster and turning the screw counterclockwise will make it run slower.
Close and lock the front access door.
Ridgeway cabinet key
Consult your owner’s manual for setting special features not covered above.
My hope was that it would be a relatively straight forward exercise
This is Part 1 of servicing this 30 hour Waterbury time and strike movement. I honestly thought it would be relatively straight forward exercise. Dis-assemble, clean the parts, polish the pivots, do a little bushing work and voila! Not so.
I have worked on many clock movements but I have never seen quite the extent of wear that I found on this movement. 150 years certainly takes its toll.
Ogee clock showing replacement pendulum bob
Some time ago I profiled this Ogee clock. To reiterate, in 1839 the first prototype movement was produced for Chauncey Jerome by his brother Noble in Connecticut, USA. Jerome thought that a simple one-day clock could be produced far more cheaply than those with wooden movements at the time. Brass movements were more robust, could be transported easily and were unaffected by humidity. The simple case added to the movement was the Ogee named for its “S” shaped moldings. The success of the Ogee clock convinced other makers that there was money to be made in clock production.
This particular 30 hour time and strike Waterbury Ogee clock was produced at the height of Ogee clock production (1870s) and many thousands were sold. This is a very fine example. Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the case; it is in exceptional condition. The movement, well, that’s another story. This was not a working clock when I got it.
Waterbury clock movement
After disassembling the movement I discovered two things. One, there was evidence that it had been worked on before – as expected. There were punch and stake marks on the movement plates to close pivot holes and there was considerable wear in the lantern pinions.
Front plate has been removed
Four of the wheels have lantern pinions, with 5 trundles apiece. Trundles are the loose wires within the 2 shrouds. Dust and dirt as well as misalignment of wheel and pinion due to worn pivot holes can exacerbate the wear issue. The trundles on all 4 lantern pinions are very worn as you can see in the next two photos. I discovered why this clock does not run. When the gear teeth hits two worn trundles at precisely the right angle it locks the gear and stops the clock.
Worn trundles within lantern pinion
Another wheel with worn trundles within the lantern pinion
Professional clock-makers encounter these issues fairly regularly. Indeed, one of the most common operations in clock repair is replacing bent, broken or worn trundles. There are different methods of performing this service and the method I will employ is to drill into the shroud, extract the worn trundles, cut new ones out of pivot wire, insert them and re-knurl the shroud.
In the meantime bushing work was performed; 10 bushings were installed, 5 on the back plate and 5 on the front, including one on the escape wheel bridge. I re-assembled the movement knowing that the trundles had to be replaced, but despite new bushings the movement ran only marginally better.
Part II (Jan 2nd) details the procedure I followed to replace the trundles in the lantern pinions. Stay tuned.
Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) was devastated on 6 December 1917 when two ships collided in the city’s harbour.
Taken from the Dartmouth side
Results of the deadly blast
Today marks the 100th anniversary of the Halifax Explosion.
On Dec. 6, 1917, the Belgian relief ship Imo rammed into the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc, which was carrying TNT through the narrowest part of Halifax harbour. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a devastating explosion. The Mont-Blancexploded at 9:04:35 a.m., sending out a shock wave in all directions, followed by a tsunami that washed violently over the Halifax and Dartmouth shores. More than 2.5 square km of Richmond were totally levelled, either by the blast, the tsunami, or the structure fires caused when buildings collapsed inward on lanterns, stoves and furnaces.
Two thousand people were killed in the Halifax Explosion and another 9,000 were injured. The explosion is the worst man-made disaster in Canadian history.
Seconds later a Junghans Crispi wall clock fell off a wall in a house on Princess court, North End Halifax. The following is the story of that clock.
I bought the remains of the clock from a gentleman in Halifax who related the story of how this clock was passed down to him through his wife’s family. It was important to him that someone who had a love and an appreciation of old clocks should continue with the restoration after he had rebuilt the frame some 30 years ago.
Thus began the six month journey of restoring the clock to its former glory. During the restoration I was able to obtain an old catalog image (supplied by a member of NAWCC) to guide me through the rebuilding process. Some of the smaller trim pieces were missing and because they are impossible to locate they had to be either purchased from a clock supply house or handcrafted.
How the clock came to me
Four Junghans clocks, the Cripi is second from the left
Junghans Crispi wall clock
It is now a wonderful tribute to that terrible tragedy on December 6, 1917.
Having moved modern grandfather clocks these are some useful some tips when transporting your clock. If you are unsure, a professional will certainly perform the service but consider the cost before you decide since you will pay travel time plus disassembly/set-up time, shop supplies and tax.
A call to a professional is unnecessary if you follow these simple steps.
Ridgeway Hamilton Country circa 1996, Hermle movement, cabinet by Pulaski Furniture Co.
Never lift up or carry your grandfather clock without first partially disassembling it. This is very important as you risk damage to your valuable clock. Moving your clock just a few inches from one area of a room to another requires that you do it carefully and correctly.
To preserve its finish, use cotton gloves to handle the weights, pendulum and other brass clock parts.
The weights are not all the same although they may look identical
Follow these steps:
Raise the weights to half wound for chains. Cables will need to be hooked separately by string to the bottom of the case.
Unhook the weights. If not already marked, add tape and pencil to mark the weights L, C, R; “L” for left, “C” for centre and “R” for right. This is to ensure that the correct weight goes back where it should. The weights are not all the same although they may look identical. On most modern grandfather clocks each weight provides the motive power necessary to operate the time, chime and strike trains of your grandfather clock. The manufacturer has determined that a weight powered by an exact number of lbs will affect how the clock runs. For example, the chime train requires a specific weight. If the weight is too light the chimes will run slowly or not at all. Generally speaking, the heaviest weight goes on the far right side chime train, as it needs more power to run all of the independent chime hammers.
Take the side vents out of the case or tape them from the inside. They lift out of their channels from the inside.
Remove the pendulum by holding it (with cotton gloves) from the middle and slightly move it up. It should unhook easily.
Lyre pendulum
Secure the chains or cables by bunching them from bottom to top and wrapping them in newspaper and place a rubber band around the package so that they do not move around. Pipe cleaners or twist ties are also great for securing the chains/cables.
Put each weight in a sock or in bubble wrap.
Place the pendulum in a folded blanket.
Punch holes in a strip of an egg carton to hold the chiming rods or use Styrofoam.
Weights should be separated from the clock during transport.
Lie the case down for transport ensuring that there is sufficient protection for the glass.
Lock the access door. Use a large blanket to surround the clock and place cardboard between the blanket and the front glass.
Ridgeway cabinet key
Some movements can be taken out for transport but for modern grandfather clocks, this is seldom required. Nonetheless, ensure that the movement is secure in its case.
Hermle movement
If you have decorative ornaments such as finials that friction fits into their respective holes they can be lifted out.
You should now safely transport your grandfather clock.
Why are these clocks so cheap? Discounting the wild prices some seem to be asking on online for-sale sites, a good example can be had for almost nothing. Why? Allow me to explain.
This 30 hour time and strike Waterbury Ogee clock was discovered at an antique store an hour’s drive away. The store has a well-deserved reputation for pricing items for a quick sale and each time we visit there is always a new selection of interesting clocks as well as plenty of other fascinating antiques.
30-hour Ogee clock by Waterbury
Ogee clock, clock design that originated in the United States in the 1830s, distinguished by a case (usually pine) the front outer edges of which are curved into an S-shape (ogee). This shape is formed by the union of a convex and a concave line. A mass-produced variant of the shelf clock, the ogee clock stands about 30 inches (75 cm) high and is usually weight-driven. The movements were usually made of brass and were made to run for 30 hours or eight days. (Brittanica.com)
The Ogee clock – the beginning
In 1839 the first prototype movement was produced for Chauncey Jerome by his brother Noble in Connecticut, USA. Jerome thought that a simple one-day clock could be produced far more cheaply than those with wooden movements at the time. Brass movements were more robust, could be transported easily and were unaffected by humidity. The simple case added to the movement was the Ogee named for its “S” shaped moldings. The success of the Ogee clock convinced other makers that there was a lot of money to be made in clock production.
My new acquisition
The seller knew nothing about clocks and his only interest was to move the item. The proprietor said it was not working. Just as well, I bought the clock for almost nothing. In my opinion these clocks are terribly undervalued.
It came with a winding crank and both weights but no pendulum. A 2.2oz pendulum bob was later fitted to the movement.
The dimensions are 4 1/4 deep X 15 1/4 wide X 25 3/4 inches high. The clock strikes on the hour to conserve the weight drop. The coiled gong on the Waterbury stamped base is loud, and the striking is frantic.
The movement will run and stay in beat (relatively!) but stops after about 15 minutes. That is to be expected and a thorough servicing is in order. Stake and punch marks throughout the movement tell me that the movement has been worked on more than once.
Ogee clock label shown with a 2.7 oz pendulum, also testing with a 1.7 oz pendulum
The Rosewood veneer is in remarkably good condition though the outside four corners have been compromised. The label is in very good condition with two small pieces missing at the bottom edge and water staining on the right side. The painted zinc dial with Roman Numerals has some flaking and the numbers are somewhat faded but it otherwise looks very good for the age of the clock. Both spade hands and Ogee hands are on similar dials I have seen so I do not know if these are correct/original. The lower reverse painted tablet is silk screened, looks to be marred around the centre area and the entire scene has minor crackling but it is vivid and largely intact.
Veneer in excellent condition
This is a Type 2.411 movement introduced by the Waterbury Clock Co. when Chauncey Jerome worked for them briefly in 1856-1857 after he went bankrupt. Found in Chauncey Jerome-labeled clocks with movement stamped, “C JEROME.” and also stamped “Waterbury Clock Co. CT” in later (1870) Waterbury clocks. This movement has the Waterbury stamp.
Waterbury clock movement
There is a Canadian connection to this movement. The Canada Clock Co. of Whitby, Ontario 1872-76 made 30 hour weight driven, time and strike movements based on an American design. Research indicates that the Collins Brothers (there were three: William, John, and Edward Collins) made a close copy of the OG movement used by the Waterbury Clock Company in Connecticut, a testament to the excellent design of this movement.
Ogee clock top showing cable pulleys
Why are these clocks so undervalued?
The economic collapse of 2008-09 prompted many to sell their clocks and glut the market.
The generation of folks who cherished these clocks are dying off.
The newer generation consider them irrelevant and are not interested in them.
30 hour clocks are a tough sell because of the hassle of winding them daily.
Winding them daily means that most have considerable wear and the cost of repair exceeds the value of the clock
Lastly, many tens of thousands were made so they are not especially rare.
Ten years ago an Ogee in good condition would easily sell for $200 to $300. Today I see prices all over the map but none close to the prices they once commanded.
Expect a report on the servicing of this 30 hour Waterbury Ogee in the weeks to come.
tools are essential for clock repair because they enable precision and accuracy, which are critical when working with delicate mechanisms and intricate components. Let’s identify the key reasons.
Antique and vintage clocks can lose significant value if repaired improperly. Using the right tools minimizes the risk of damage, preserving their historical and monetary worth. The right allows you to handle small parts without causing damage. Specialized tools ensure components are handled carefully and correctly.
Proper tools make the repair process faster and more straightforward. Having the right tools helps build confidence and competence. They allow you to focus on understanding clock mechanisms without being hindered by improper equipment.
This article will describe some of the more advanced tools required to tackle the repair and/or cleaning of mechanical clocks.
Based on years of clock repair experience, I recommend the following tools for those ready to advance their skills in clock restoration and repair. Most specialty items will need to be ordered from clock supply companies such as Timesavers (USA), Perrin (Canada), or Meadows and Passmore (UK). Other items such as an ultrasonic cleaner can be ordered through online merchants.
Part I of this two-part series describes the basic tools for those just starting out. The tools/equipment described here are for the more advanced hobbyist/amateur horologist.
A Suggested List of Items
Ultrasonic Cleaner: This Harbor Freight special will do for now but it is so low-powered that a newer, more powerful machine is on the horizon. It does not perform as well as better quality machines and it has a limited load capacity. An eight-minute limit for each cycle means that several cycles are required to properly clean clock parts. It is a start.
Ultrasonic cleaner
Spring winder: An essential tool. Disassembling clock movement also includes servicing the mainsprings. Mainsprings must be inspected for breaks, cracks and splits, cleaned of old oil and rust (as long as there is not too much rust) and lubricated prior to re-installing them into the movement. Too much rust and they should be discarded. I generally do not replace springs in a movement unless they are quite set, or have breaks or cracks. I have found that the steel in the original movement is better quality than can be found today. Mounting the spring winder on a piece of hardwood provides a stable tool and allows it to be clamped to a work-desk.
Although there are other types of spring winders, the Olie Baker winder is one of the better choices in my view. It is well made and should last for years. If you can find a used one you will save a little.
Mainspring contained in a clampMainspring servicing; taking the clamp off to inspect and service the mainspringMainspring barrels require collars supplied with the Olie Baker spring winder
Bergeon 6200 Bushing Machine: Some bush by hand and they are to be applauded for their patience and skill. I chose a bushing machine for the delicate work of installing bushings. This is the Bergeon 6200 which is made in Switzerland. It is exceptionally well made and relatively simple to use.
Chucks and reamers
The machine can be bought separately or with a set of cutters and other hardware (above). The cutters can last 15 years or more. Of course, you must also have an assortment of correctly sized brass bushings that are purchased separately from any clock supply house.
To operate, a correct size cutter is placed in the bottom end of the steel shaft, holes are cut after which the new bushings are punched in place with a hammer head fitted to the shaft.
Bergeon Bushing MachinePressing a brass bushing into the drilled pivot holeSix new bushings on the back plate of a mantel clock
Lathe: Good quality mini lathe are available from Sherline, Taig and others. A cost effective option is the Taig Miniature Lathe for metal. The Taig lathe was originally designed for precision machining of watch and clock parts; ideal for clock repair applications. The small office space in my home means that its compactness, portability and relative simplicity are attractive features.
Taig lathe with 1/4 hp Marathon motor
Reference/Reading material: I recommend the Steven Conover series of repair manuals. The manuals are well-written, and detailed and are great resources for the beginner or the advanced amateur.
Steven G. Conover; Clock Repair Basics
Steven G. Conover; Striking Clock Repair Guide
Steven G. Conover; Chime Clock Repair
The acquisition of clock supplies and equipment has been a personal journey for me. I started with a few basic tools for disassembling movements, gradually learning what additional tools were necessary and steadily expanding my collection over time.
Several years ago, my first major purchase was the Olie Baker spring winder. A few months later, I added a Bergeon bushing machine, complete with cutters and a supply of bushings. Most recently, I acquired a Taig mini lathe with accessories. This mini lathe will enable me to advance my clock repair skills by allowing me to polish and burnish pivots properly, replace worn or damaged pivots, and perform other specialized repairs. As new challenges arise, I plan to seek out additional specialized tools and equipment to further enhance my capabilities.
And finally
Set a specific goal, research your requirements, and build your collection of tools and equipment gradually while sticking to a reasonable budget. Clock repair can be more affordable than you might expect, especially when costs are spread out over time and some tools can be sourced from the used market.
I hope you found this helpful! If there’s a tool or piece of equipment you consider absolutely indispensable, I’d love to hear about it.
Clock collecting and repair allows me to combine my other hobby, photography with the world of horology.
I have seen so many poor photos of clocks that I thought I would cover one small aspect of photography, macro photography. The following is a generalist approach to macro photography that is intended to allow the hobbyist to take more interesting photos of their clocks. You can make macro photography as basic or as complex as you wish it to be. Here we are talking about normal macro as opposed to true macro when you are creating an extreme close-up image of an insect, for example. Normal macro is a sharp image of a tiny object requiring the lens to be positioned much closer to the object. You do not have to be a studio pro to take macro images but you should have a macro capable lens.
Most photos on my blog are taken with an 8 megapixel Olympus E330 SLR which I have had for about 10 years. It is coupled to a 50mm F2 lens macro lens purchased around the same time (equivalent 35mm focal distance of 100mm). For photo enthusiasts the lens has has 11 elements in 10 groups with a minimum focusing distance of 0.2m. In 2008 DPReview called the 50mm a “Superb image quality (lens) even wide open – sharp, distortion-free with no lateral Chromatic Aberration”.
I do not use a cellphone when taking clock pictures. Simply put, it is NOT the resolution, it is the lens
The 50mm lens is a true macro and it permits shots that would be otherwise impossible to take on a typical cellphone camera. I do not use a cellphone when taking clock pictures. It is NOT the resolution, it is the lens. There are occasions when I will use a more up-to-date camera such as my Panasonic G85 when taking some clock shots and all videos as the E330 is not video capable.
8 megapixel E330 with 50mm F2 lens, introduced in 2006; first DSLR with “Liveview”
In some of the shots you will notice a purposely blurred out background. This is known as Bokeh. The degree of blurriness or Bokeh is an indicator of the quality of the lens but more importantly Bokeh allows the viewer to concentrate on the object in question without the distraction of a background. The decrease in sharpness is gradual on each side of the focused distance. This is accomplished by setting your camera lens to the widest possible setting (lower F stop, F2 for instance) and then focusing on one particular part of the frame. The contrast between in and out of focus portions of the frame concentrating around the subject and relative distance to other things in the frame creates a deeply enriched image.
E330 back view
A flash attachment like the Olympus FL-36 allows you to tailor the light for the scene. Make sure your camera has a hot-shoe for an external flash. Invest in an external flash unit with a 90 degree swivel (bounce) head. Buy the flash that is correct for your camera. You don’t need to spend a lot of money, external flash attachments can be very inexpensive.
When taking a flash picture indoors, turn off the camera’s built-in flash. Point the bounce flash head at the ceiling (rather than at the object) and take the picture. This will provide a soft, diffused light and it will cut down on reflections. Bouncing light creates a more natural effect rather a direct flash on an object which can be harsh and unattractive. Bouncing also works best with light coloured ceilings, white being the preferred colour. When there is no light to bounce off, a diffuser works well. The photo below shows the FL-35 with a diffuser (white rectangular shaped plastic top) attached.
E330 with Olympus flash
The top photo (Westclox LaSalle alarm clock) was shot with a white cloth background and a bounce flash.
Use auto white balance (AWB) in your camera settings. Shooting in JPEG is perfectly fine but for more control over the final result, shoot in RAW to correct colour temperature and exposure in post processing.
Rather than explain each shot I will allow the photos speak for themselves.
Floating balance from a Dugena mantel clock
Company name stamped on an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon wall clock movement
Pendulum lock on a type 89 Seth Thomas Cottage clock movement
Brocot patented speed adjustment on French table clock
Centre shaft cam, Sessions Westminster A mantel clock
Close-up showing extent of bushing wear on an American time and strike
Centre wheel on a German time and strike mantel clock
Patent date of 1877 on back of an Ingraham Huron pendulum
Centre canon teeth repair on an Ingersoll Waterbury mantel clock
Reverse side of factory pressed bushing oil sinks
Bad trundles on a 30 hour Ogee lantern pinion
Star wheel on a Gustav Becker Vienna weight drive regulator
Worn click on Sessions Beveled No. 2 time and strike movement; narrow focus range. Only the centre is in focus.
Having a capable camera with a high quality macro lens is essential to clock repair.
In a future article I will explore lighting, exposure and other techniques to enhance your clock photos. If you have any questions please leave a comment.
Here is an ad for a clock recently offered on an online for-sale site. Here is the description.
The clocks dose not work it needs some work 80 dollars or best offer
And here is the image that is attached. There is only one image.
Blurred image of a mantel clock for sale. Photo not rotated, as seen on ad
Would you as the buyer even ask more questions about this clock?
Wouldn’t the seller put just a little extra effort into a good description and decent resolution images if they wanted to charge a fair price for their clock? I would be surprised if the seller gets any response from this ad.
EN Welch time and strike parlour clock displayed in an antique shop
In a previous article I described some of the challenges I had with this E.N. Welch clock movement.
The clock ran for about 48 hours and suddenly stopped. It seems that every time I think everything is going well, something else crops up. I dis-assembled the movement (again) and installed three more bushings, one of which is on the escape wheel bridge which I noticed had a fair amount of play. Perhaps the vertical motion of the EW was causing the clock to stop. The other two bushings were installed on the third wheel, back and front. I have decided to hold off addressing the EW teeth if the bushing work I have done has solved the stoppage issue.
I was hoping to wrap the servicing up fairly quickly but unanticipated problems continued to crop up. Having completed the work mentioned above I could see that things were beginning to change for the better.
Shortly after taken from the case. A very dirty movement with many issues
The time side ran strongly for eight days after which I reinstalled the strike train. Here is the movement running on a test stand.
Cleaned and free of rust, bushings installed and tested
Setting up the strike side required manipulating some of the lever wires which were moved out of position by the previous owner, for whatever reason. A previous repair/adjustment resulted in the lifting levers bent back into the case and the count lever pushed in an upwards orientation. As a result I had to bend the levers back into their original positions.
From left; hammer lever, count lever, lifting lever
Here is the movement installed back into its case.
E. N. Welsh Whittier model
It should now run reliably for years to come. A frustrating project with a satisfying ending.
If your country uses Daylight Saving Time (DST), you have to change your clocks twice a year.
Set your clocks forward 1 hour in the spring at the start of DST (Daylight Saving Time), and 1 hour back in the fall when DST ends. In North America the word “fall” is used to denote the season, while other English-speaking countries usually call it autumn. “Spring Forward – Fall Back” is therefore a phrase most often heard in the USA and Canada.
Records show that the phrase “spring forward, fall back” has been in use at least as far back as the early 20th century. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer, while sacrificing normal sunrise times.
The Westclox Clock Company is better known for various versions of Big Ben and Baby Ben windup alarm clocks produced from 1900 to the mid 1980s. But there were other windup models one of which is the Art Deco styled LaSalle series. This is the model 61-C (401) otherwise known as a Dura clock because they have nickel-plated, die-cast zinc cases made by The Dura Casting Corporation in the United States. There are 6 models in the LaSalle series and all use the Westclox type 61 Baby Ben, one day movement.
Westclox LaSalle alarm clock
Gee that old LaSalle ran great….those were the days! (a line borrowed from the theme song to All in the Family)
I have a modest collection of alarm clocks and if something interests me I will buy it. My wife found this Westclox Alarm clock at an antique store in Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada). At $20 the price was right. It is solid, well made, attractive and partially assembled in Canada.
There is no information on which clock parts were made in Canada and which parts were manufactured in the Peterborough plant through the years
Westclox alarm back of clock showing winding mechanism; oftentimes knobs are missing on these old clocks
The LaSalle 400 series ran from 1930 to 1934. This is model 61C. The clock measures 3 1/8 inches high. The base is 3 1/4 inches and the depth is 1 3/4 inches.
Bottom of clock showing Patent dates & “Case made in USA by Dura”
Inside is a Baby Ben movement. The Baby Ben movement was first marketed in 1910 and first nationally advertised in 1915. The 5-year delay occurred because the company was going through organizational changes and it took 3 years to improve the reliability of the Baby Ben. The patent date on this clock is 1914.
In 1912 Westclox opened a sales office in Toronto, Canada as part of its policy to establish world markets. Somewhere between 1920 and 1922 production began at the plant in Peterborough, Canada. At that time parts were shipped from the LaSalle-Peru plant for final assembly in Canada. Unfortunately, there is no information on which clock parts were made in Canada and which parts were manufactured in the Peterborough plant through the years. Thousands of Big Ben and Baby Ben alarm clocks were manufactured and sold through the 1920s to the 1970s. In the early 1980s production in Canada stopped.
I avoid clocks with radium dials. Since radium has a half-life of hundreds of years even old radium dials are very hazardous. If working on a clock with a radium dial care should be taken to prevent the inhalation or ingestion of flakes or dust which may contain radioactive materials. In the past several years radium dials have largely been replaced by phosphorescent – or occasionally tritium-based light sources.
Side view of alarm clock
I took the back cover off and found an inscription indicating that it was last serviced in 1955. The markings are unusual because alarm clocks rarely see servicing and once they stop they are simply discarded or used as paper weights.
That LaSalle may have run great at one time but not now. I can hear it ticking but once set down it abruptly stops. A thorough cleaning is required.
It is a nice piece of Canadian Horological history.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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