Tips on selling (or buying) an antique or vintage clock

If you are a collector or simply have a general interest in mechanical clocks and wish to sell antique and/or vintage clocks then, read on. I am not a seller but I purchase clocks to build my collection.

I occasionally sell clocks locally as a way to manage my collection. Most of the clocks I’ve sold have been serviced by me, and my main goal is to recover the time spent on cleaning and repairs, rather than promoting sales on my blog.

The Difference between Antique and Vintage

Let’s begin with definitions. Antique is anything over 100 years old and vintage is less than 100 years but more than 30 years old. Anything that is less than 30 years old may be considered vintage but more often it is called collectible. Try to pass off a 30-year-old clock as an antique and you will turn off a lot of prospective buyers.

Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock C.1870

Clock Terms

When selling a mantel clock, it’s important to use ‘mantel,’ not ‘mantle.’ A mantel refers to a shelf or structure, while a mantle is something one wears. Using the correct terminology also signals that you have a deeper knowledge of clocks than the average person.

A clock with two winding points (with some exceptions) is typically referred to as a striking clock, which strikes but does not ‘chime.’ A chiming clock usually plays a quarter-hour melody, such as Westminster or Whittington, and often has three winding points (though there are exceptions). There is no such thing as a ‘Tempus Fugit’ clock; ‘Tempus Fugit’ simply means ‘time flies in Latin.

A grandfather clock is a clock that stands 6 feet or taller and is not a wall clock. A grandmother clock is a floor clock that measures less than 6 feet in height. Grandfather clocks are also known as tall-case clocks, longcase clocks, or hall clocks.

Gingerbread and parlour clocks are distinct in design, but both are typically classified as kitchen clocks.

There are many other styles but let’s leave it at that.

Honesty and Disclosure

In my view, the most important element in selling a clock is honesty.

Inform the prospective buyer by describing as much detail as possible about the clock without getting too wordy. A clock that is a marriage, a case with a similar but replacement movement, should be stated as such. Replacement glass, newer dial, replacement crowns and finials, case repairs, or full case restoration should also be disclosed, perhaps not immediately in your ad but as a follow-up.

If the clock is running and was recently serviced by a competent repair person, state such in your ad. If the clock is running but the movement requires cleaning it should be stated as such. If it is not running explain why and what issues it might have such as a broken mainspring, missing pendulum bob, missing winding key, and so on. If you don’t know why it is not running, say so but be honest about it.

If you’re selling a clock and don’t know much about it, be honest and say so. Similarly, if you’re selling clocks in general but lack knowledge about them, it’s better to be transparent about that as well.

If your clock is rare, indicate why it is rare and support your claim with credible documentation including its provenance.

_{E. Ingraham shelf clock C.1878, not rare but uncommon}

Establishing a Value

Research auction prices to get a feel for the value of similar clocks that are offered for sale and the price realized. Sources are Kijiji, Facebook Marketplace, eBay, and any number of respectable auction houses.

There will be a range of prices and something in the middle of the range is a good guide though its condition will determine what people expect to pay.

Determining the condition of a clock is an important factor in evaluating its value. The clock’s overall appearance, functionality, and any repairs or restorations it has undergone will all impact its worth. A clock in poor condition generally has a lower value than one in excellent condition, as potential buyers may factor in the cost and effort required to restore it.

Know that a clock is only worth as much as someone will pay. If you price your clock too high you will know it soon enough.

Rare and desirable clocks, as well as clocks with an interesting provenance, will command higher prices.

Clocks also vary in price according to the geographic location where they are sold. Generally, clocks that are made in the same location as the clock is sold will command higher prices. English and German bracket clocks are not as popular in America as they are in Europe and are priced accordingly.

Preparations for Sale

A clock in running condition will fetch a higher price than one that is not. A professionally serviced clock in excellent running order will command an even higher price. A clock case cleaned of grime will present better than a dirty one. Missing hands or dial glass will adversely affect the price. Items such as these can be replaced and parts are available from clock suppliers but it becomes an extra cost for the buyer and for many, it is a deal-breaker.

If you are handy at clock repair, servicing the movement or any case repairs will enhance the value of the clock you are selling. If you have serviced a clock, always be clear about the work you’ve done. Describe in detail the specific repairs, cleaning, or adjustments you’ve made to the movement, as well as any parts that were replaced or restored.

This transparency not only helps potential buyers understand the value of the clock but also assures them that the clock is in good working condition. Whether it’s oiling, replacing worn parts, or correcting any mechanical issues, providing this information builds trust and demonstrates your expertise.

The term servicing has many definitions. Be wary as sellers may claim a clock has been serviced if the only thing done to it is oiling. Among reputable clock repairers, servicing is defined as, taking the movement out of its case, disassembling the movement, cleaning the parts, addressing wear issues/repairs/parts replacement, reassembly, oiling, and testing before reinstalling it back into the case.

_{Sessions Raven time and strike shelf clock}

Visual Presentation

While few cell phones (though some are improving) can capture highly detailed images of a clock, they often suffice for many purposes. However, blurry or out-of-focus photos are unacceptable.

_{Smiths Enfield mantel clock serviced and ready for its new owner}

Several images from different angles as well as a photo of the inside of the clock case are much more helpful than one photo. During the daylight, place the clock near a window and position yourself between the window and the clock to take a series of photos in natural light. If there is damage or wear take close-up photos of those areas.

In general, a dedicated camera with artificial light will produce better results than a cell phone camera.

Clock Description

Crafting an ad is an art in itself. You must be concise and accurate and not overly wordy. There is a balance between too little and too much information. Less information means fewer inquiries from prospective buyers. Too much information with technical terms will turn off prospective buyers. Try to anticipate the questions prospective buyers might have in order to limit the number of follow-up queries.

State the clock’s maker if known, the model if possible, the year it was made, the type, (time-only, time and strike, chiming clock), the style of clock (mantel, wall, shelf, parlour, Ogee, tall-case, etc.). as well as any interesting features, for example, a steeple clock with an alarm function or a clock with a second’s hand. Along with your description state the approximate age. If you do not know, a picture of the maker’s mark on the dial or the movement will assist prospective buyers.

While it’s not necessary to give a reason for selling, doing so can sometimes enhance the ad.

_{1860s era Seth Thomas column and cornice shelf clock}

Where to Advertize

There are a number of ways to sell a clock. Facebook Marketplace is very popular. Other local online for-sale sites, eBay, flea markets, consignment shops, and auction houses are popular places to sell a clock. Setting up an account for most online sites is a pre-requisite but there is usually no cost.

Example of a Poor Ad

Antique clock, comes with key, $250

Example of an Eye-catching Ad

Scaling down my collection. Antique German time and strike clock made by Friedrich Mauthe, circa 1899. Completely serviced in 2019 which includes disassembly and addressing worn parts. Original glass, mild refresh of the case, new wall stabilizers, and new arch piece. Ran for many years in a family home in Parsboro, Nova Scotia. Runs well and keeps good time, original key supplied. $250

Juba Schatz time and strike clock — _{Juba Schatz time and strike mantel clock}

Final Remarks

While selling a clock can be a frustrating experience, it can also be quite satisfying. I choose to sell locally to avoid shipping costs and the risk of items arriving damaged. Meeting the buyer in person allows me to answer any questions they may have and provide a more personal experience.

Though this is not a definitive guide to selling, I hope these pointers and ideas will help when you decide to sell (or buy) your antique or vintage mechanical clock.

July 9, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #34 – what is a HHSN clock?

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face, a clock you would like me to profile, my advice on your particular clock concern or a general clock question. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

CL writes:

“Hi Ron,

I was hoping you could help me identify a clock I purchased at an estate sale this weekend for $10. The back of the wall pendulum clock has a intact paper label with a full size standing Ostrich and the letters H H S N. Stamped on the workings is 45/100 and 27583 It is a 4 chime clock.

That is all of the identifying marks.

Any information you have would be helpful.

I did find one post on a site called Worth Point about a clock that had HHS N (Hermann Heinrich Straussj of Nurenberg)

STORAGE AUCTION FIND IN UNIT I WON IN AUCTION! If you search journeymagazine on eBay’s Discussion boards under Watches, Clocks & Timepieces I asked about this antique clock movement with the initials HHS N – and got 2 responses. First is a link that shows HHS N is a very rare clock movement that was part of the historical clock & watch exhibition in Nuremberg 1905 (Below)The 2nd is a link to a Mauthe that had HHS N clock movement in it.A VERY RARE CLOCK MOVEMENT FOR THE COLLECTOR OUT THERE!NOTE: I don’t have a key + I don’t know clock movements, so I don’t know if it works – Ask Any Questions or for more Photos – SOLD AS IS!FROM LINK GIVEN ME ON DISCUSSION BOARD: H.H.S.N. was a mark for the firm of Herm.[ann] Heinr.[ich] Strau [ =ss], of N rnberg. The only information in Abeler’s _Meister der Uhrmacherkunst_, the standard ref. for clockmakers in the German speaking tradions, is “erw. Hist. Uhrenauustell., N rnberg 1905.” In other words, they were mentioned in some connection with the historical clock & watch exhibition in N that year (in celebration of the 400th anniversary of the invention of the pocket watch (so they said) by Peter Henlein aka Petrus Hele. There were lots of firms represented, new and old clocks exhbited, etc. There’s a dozen or so small-print pages on this exhibition in several issues of the 1905 _

Thanks for your time.”

My reply:

“Hi CL

Thank you for coming to my blog.

This is a German “box” clock style from the late 1920s. The letters HHSN stand for Hermann-Heinrich Strauss, Nürnberg. Strauss in German means Ostrich. This company were clock dealers who are thought to have used Mauthe movements (and others) in their clocks. They went out of business in the late 1920s. Your clock could have been made by almost any of the big German firms at the time, Mauthe, Kienzle, Junghans etc. The movement looks like a Mauthe and that makes perfect sense. 45 refers to the length in centimetres of the pendulum (17.7 inches) while the number 100 refers to the beats per minute. 27583 is a production number and the first two digits are likely the year the clock was made.

4 -rods mean the movement will produce a very nice bim-bam strike if the hammers are aligned correctly on each of the strike rods.

It is a clock worth preserving and a steal for the price you paid.

Hope this helps

Ron”

CL replies:

“Ron,

Thank you for this knowledge! I appreciate the quick reply. I look forward to getting it cleaned and hung on our wall.”

July 6, 2021

Door catch repair on a Gilbert Model 2038 mantel clock

This is the model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert called a Normandy Chime in its sales catalog. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. The “Normandy Chime” was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France.

In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.

The movement has been serviced

Clocks such as this that have not seen servicing in many years fail because of a combination of bushing wear and old oil buildup.

The movement was cleaned, the mainsprings serviced, pivots polished, 5 bushings installed to address wear issues and tested prior to returning it to its case.

Gilbert movement with a date stamp of 1925

The door catch

Although serviced well over a year ago I never got around to repairing the door catch. I could not figure out a way to make an effective catch and I don’t think the solution I came up with is the best possible one.

Now, you might think, why is this such a big deal? It’s not, but without the catch the door pops open a little and will not stay closed, enough to annoy the heck out of me.

The solution, for now, is a brass tab with a hole drilled through it to accommodate one of the bezel screws. It is not perfect but allows the door to close securely.

I have no idea what the original catch looked like but evidently it was a poor enough design that it broke at some point in the clock’s history.

The clock is promised as a gift and now I am now assured that everything works properly.

June 27, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #33 – buying a vintage grandfather clock – advice for a reader

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face, a clock you would like me to profile, my advice on your particular clock concern or a general clock question. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

MB wrote

“Hi Ron,

I came across this clock and your blog and have fell in love with it. I want to put a bid on it but have no idea what it is worth. Could you give me your opinion please?”

I am not sure whether they fell in love with the clock or my blog!

I replied,

Hi and thanks for writing.

The clock you wish to bid on appears to be American-made and from the 1990s. Let me point out some factors to consider.

If the clock is from the 1990s, the movement (the mechanical works) have reached the end of its service life. Typically movements from this era have a life span of about 25 years. If it is a non-working clock, it is worn out. If it is a working clock there is not much time left on the movement. Regardless, to service or replace the movement would be in the order of $450 to $500. If it has been recently serviced (disassembled, wear issues addressed, repairs made, reassembled, tested and oiled) or the movement has been replaced with a new one, that is a big plus.
From the photo I would question why the weights are at different levels. In a working clock the three weights descend together (with slight variations) through the clock’s 8-day cycle. See attached photo (right).
Many years ago it was not unusual to spend $2000 to $3000 for one of these clocks when new. Today they are worth almost nothing. The fact that this clock appears to be in a basement or garage does not bode well for its condition. The photo is not very clear but I can see wear around the base of the clock and it may even be missing the bottommost pedestal (which might be concealed by something in front of it) which also begs the question: what else is missing?
A similar clock in excellent condition with a recently serviced movement would be in the $500 price range.
A clock, such as this, that has never been serviced whether working or not would be in the $100 – $125 price range but be prepared to spend more money on it unless you can do the repairs yourself.

MB writes back,

“Thank you so much! They did indicate that the pendulum isn’t working so I guess I will stay away.

I appreciate your detailed answer and for saving me from what sounds like it could have been a waste.

Have a great evening!”

June 22, 2021

Servicing a Seth Thomas 8-day movement

I was attracted to the style of this clock but disappointed when I learned that it was a marriage of a Waterbury case with a Seth Thomas movement. Briefly, a marriage is when parts from two different makers come together.

Buying a clock from a flea market, antique mall, a shop or what have you is always a gamble. On this particular clock there is no trademark or name on the dial or a label in the back of the case that told me who the maker was. I made an assumption and it was an impulse buy.

While at the antique store I opened the back of the case to confirm that the clock had a movement and it was complete with pendulum bob and coiled gong and to me everything appeared correct until I brought it home. My first thought was an Ansonia movement when I looked at it under the dim light of the store.

Seth Thomas and other makers made similar cabinet style cases but this is the Wren by the Waterbury Clock Company. Being a marriage, the clock is worth much less to those particular about such matters. No matter, it looks attractive.

I can imagine a past owner’s conversation with the repair guy, I don’t care what you do, just make it work! And the repair guy responds by removing the very worn Waterbury movement and replacing it with a Seth Thomas. Easy peasy!

One of the current seller’s stickers on the case said it was a non-working clock but with minor adjustments, such as moving the pallets closer to the escape wheel and releasing the time-side mainspring, I had it running in no time. There is not much wrong with the movement and a good cleaning plus a bushing or two should put things right.

So, what did I buy?

As I said, I like the case and it has a decent movement but when a clock is a marriage one can expect some questionable repairs and interesting changes as one takes things apart.

I am not absolutely certain the dial pan came with the case or was added later but the glass and bezel are certainly from a mid-century mantel clock. It is so ugly it will be tossed into the spare parts drawer. I will keep the dial pan but a piecrust bezel with flat glass is more appropriate for the period.

Piecrust dial on a 6-column mantel clock

Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement

I removed the dial and discovered a number of extra screw holes here and there, varying lengths of screws, some screw holes filled with pieces of wood, even a couple of Robertson screws (not invented until after the First War) and so on. Obviously the replacement movement required new holes and why not drill a few extra holes for good measure!

The hole on the dial just above the 12 is larger than it should be. It was either enlarged to accommodate the regulating arbour or it’s a new hole altogether.

On a positive note both the case and the movement are from a similar period.

Disassembling the movement

But this post is about servicing the movement.

I am impressed with the engineering of this Seth Thomas movement. It is robust and well-designed though it has an interesting, overly complicated, speed regulating feature.

From my research I found that the hip style movement is the type 44 which was used for a 12 year period beginning in 1890. In 1903 it was presumably replaced with the type 89 movement, simpler to manufacture, fewer parts and more reliable, and appeared in many thousands of ST mantel clocks afterwards. It has a sickle shaped brass piece between the plates so that the clock can be turned backwards repeatedly at the hour to sync the strike with the hands. It is technically called a set-back counter weight.

Regulating arbour with worm gear on one end

There were variations of this movement, front winding movements as opposed to rear winding, with and without the worm gear speed regulator and some with stop works. This movement does not have Geneva stops.

It took me more time than usual to pry open the plates because I was slowed down by the intricacy of regulating mechanism. Part of the mechanism consists of a long arbour that passes from the front plate to the back plate. At one end is a worm gear and on the other is the regulating end. It is secured to the outside of the front plate by means of a spring with a pin through the arbour. To release the arbour, the pin must be pulled and the spring releases.

Well, actually the spring flew across the room. No problem, I’m used to crawling on the floor looking for clock parts.

I have worked on a lot of American time and strike movements but this type of regulating mechanism is a first for me. In fact, the set-back counter weight is also a first for me.

Analysis of the movement

The movement has had 12 bushings installed, 5 on the front plate and 7 on the back. The work is well done but I don’t like the arrows scratched into the plate indicating where each bushing would be installed. I use a Sharpie pen and after I have completed the bushing work I wipe the marks off with alcohol. There is no need to mar the plates.

Arrow indicating scratch mark below bushing

After looking over the movement carefully I can see there is enough wear in some bushings that they must be replaced, both second wheels, front plate, the governor, both front and back and the escape wheel bridge bushing which for some reason has punch marks around it, the only unsightly repair.

The mainsprings look to be in good shape and still bears the original ST trademarks. No worn gear teeth and the pivots, plus the lantern pinions are all in great shape.

All in all, not bad for a movement that was last serviced quite a number of years ago.

The pivots were polished and next is the bushing work. Two were interesting to say the least.

The count count wheel and the strike pin wheel are side by side. A bushing was required for the pin wheel but I could not access it from inside the plate. This is one of those few times when drilling from the outside is the only way however, I was able to push the bushing home from the inside plate. It is one of those situation where you have to stand back, analysis the problem and consider a strategy. It worked.

The second was the escape wheel bridge. To stabilize the bridge a 5-step block jig comes in handy. Otherwise, it is very difficult to keep the bridge steady and drill a straight hole.

Ingraham Grecian — % level job block used for an escape wheel bridge

The drilling went fine until the last 3.47 mm cutter. When I began to drill out the hole the old bushing came out. I knew right away that the new bushing would not have a tight fit. Evidently a past repairer had the same problem.

The block from a staking set is a useful tool. With it I was able to lay the plate down on it and punch the bushing from the inside to stabilize it.

Once together everything fell into place or so I thought. Unfortunately, I will have to take it apart again because I forgot the regulating worm gear which can only be installed with the plates separated. The movement will run perfectly fine without it, but it is part of the clock.

In the meantime the movement is running well.

June 19, 2021

Preserve, Conserve or Restore, a clockmakers dilemma

How far do you go repairing, restoring or conserving a vintage or antique clock without changing it in a significant way?

My daughter. a civil engineer raised the philosophical argument that questions whether an object like a clock that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object. This paradoxical thought exercise is called the Ship of Theseus. Plutarch, a Greek philosopher, asked whether a ship that had been restored by replacing every single wooden part remained the same ship.

The ship wherein Theseus and the youth of Athens returned from Crete had thirty oars, and was preserved by the Athenians down even to the time of Demetrius Phalereus, for they took away the old planks as they decayed, putting in new and stronger timber in their places, in so much that this ship became a standing example among the philosophers, for the logical question of things that grow; one side holding that the ship remained the same, and the other contending that it was not the same. Plutarch, Theseus[2]

Think about it! If something is fundamentally changed is it the same object?

One of our proud provincial symbols in Nova Scotia is a sailing ship called the Bluenose II, our provincial ambassador. The original Bluenose was a fishing and racing schooner that ran aground and sank 90 years ago. To honour the original Bluenose, the Bluenose II was built in the 1960s and sailed for over 50 years until it was determined that she was not seaworthy.

In 2018 the hull of the Bluenose II was rebuilt with new materials. Some items such as rigging, masts, sails, ironwork, deck structures, safety equipment, and electronics were reused. Part of the timeline for future repair involves replacing the masts, sails, rigging, and deck structures. Will the ship retain its identity? To purists, no! To Nova Scotians, yes!

Let’s go beyond the nautical example and apply our example to the lantern clock.

The lantern clock is a clock with a lantern-shaped brass case made for about a century after 1630 or so. Most had one hand, all were weight-driven with a bell on top and sat on a wall bracket. They were the first type of clock widely used in English private homes in the 17th century. Eventually, the lantern clock became obsolete when tall case clocks came into fashion.

Lantern clocks are highly collectible today and those that are in “original” condition are the most desirable. But, almost all of them have been altered, even those considered “genuine”. Check out this quote from a seller of lantern clocks, D. and J. Benson, who are specialists in early English clocks.

We are strong believers that if a clock was converted to a different escapement many years ago, this should be retained, being part of the history of the clock, rather than reconverting clocks back to former guises. Only under compelling circumstances would a clock be returned to a former state. Only absolutely necessary restoration work is carried out in order that the original clock survives for future generations. We conserve rather than replace. D& J Benson

“Compelling circumstances”. Important provenance, perhaps?

Early conversions were from verge to anchor escapement. Later ones had the original movements removed and a fusee movement (single or double) installed. When converted, original movements including alarm mechanisms were taken out, a single-hand was replaced with two hands (or the minute hand added), broken finals and door handles might have replaced, chapter rings re-silvered, doors lost due to their nature of lifting out easily. Therefore, what is the nature of the clock after it has been changed, and how original is it? Does it retain its identity? To purists, no! To the casual collector, yes!

Let’s see how this philosophical argument plays out:

If too much is done to restore a clock is it fundamentally the same and is it considered original even though new parts were made from the same materials using the same methods when the clock was first made?
Do changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original”?
If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock?
If you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity?

This is the dilemma of identity. One more example!

In 2016 I acquired my first weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock. As I worked on the clock I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years such as the brass bezel, hands, glass panels, weights, and even the movement. Although the changes were part of the history of the clock I began to accept the notion that it is what it is and to a casual observer, it looks authentic.

Minimal Invasive Intervention

The term minimal invasive intervention means how far do you go to repair, restore or conserve a clock without changing it in a significant way? Some say that any work performed on an antique clock would diminish its value. Going too far to repair a clock and it begins to lose its attraction and value as a collectable object.

Is a “true collector” more interested in a movement that has never been worked on or one that has been repaired or restored? While it is always desirable to have a running clock most concede that to make a movement actually work, intervention must be accepted (bushing and pivot reconstruction, for example). The question remains; if I want the clock to function, what is the least I can do without changing it in a significant way?

Repair, Restoration, Conservation

Repair; to rectify the faults of a clock in a way that might alter it from its original form (gear replacement, pivot work, bushing work, replacement of some parts)

Restoration; the reconstruction of the movement and clock case to original condition.

Conservation; the protection of a clock using any methods that prove effective in keeping that article in as close to its original condition as possible for as long as possible.

Any amount of intervention is frowned upon by some collectors while some amount of intervention is not only necessary but desired by others and while collectors are always searching for a completely untouched clock, an antique clock in pristine condition that has never been meddled with is a rare find.

Questions, questions, questions…

Is undoing the “damage” caused by a previous poor repair an overly invasive procedure?
If the repair was done shortly after the clock was made and it was a proper repair, was clearly documented as markings inside the clock case, should it be left untouched? (example, a wheel that has a rough tooth repair but functions well). Is the poor repair part of the clock’s historical provenance and should it be left as-is?
Would bringing the movement back to its original state be considered a restoration or a repair?
Will a repair enhance or decrease the value of the clock?
Is a repair or restoration a form of conservation?

My position regarding changes to a clock

My goal is a functional clock that presents well. A non-working clock must become a working clock because that is the nature of its existence. If a clock has important provenance and extensive repairs to the movement and/or case alter it in a negative way and I will leave it alone. But I will always clean a clock case (unless otherwise directed) because as one clockmaker I know put it, “isn’t patina just another word for dirt!”.

When working on a customer’s clock I recommend presenting several options regarding the repair of the movement and addressing case issues. This past year I worked on a customer clock and asked what they wanted to be done. It had a beautifully designed case but a non-functioning movement. Make the clock run they said and replace the broken hands but don’t touch the case even though in my view the case could have used a good cleaning and a fresh coat of shellac. I did what was requested. Is the customer right? Yes!

I will leave you with two examples.

The bob wire that came with a clock appears to be a section of coat hanger wire. Replace it with a proper adjustable bob wire?

On a movement with pinned plates one of the pins is a finishing nail. Replace it with a brass taper pin?

Hell, yes on both counts!

In some circles, this trivial examples like these will provoke a heated argument. Is there a correct answer? Put twelve clockmakers in a room and you will have a thirteen opinions.

June 14, 2021

7 reasons why a hobby such as clockmaking gives respite during a pandemic

7 reasons why a hobby such as clockmaking gives respite during a pandemic.

Builds self-esteem. Developing and maintaining a hobby is important because the small successes from day to day are enough to sustain oneself amid other pressures in life and it is the one solid thing to feel good about. It gives renewed energy to tackle other challenges in life.

Dial face, Scottish tall case clock C.1848

Avoid boredom. There is zero scientific evidence of this but boredom is responsible for a lot of society’s ills and destructive behaviours. Do you come home after a challenging workday to watch hours of TV when you could be doing something constructive and rewarding? If so, it is time to re-evaluate your life.

Junghans clock project is finished — Junghans Sydney shelf clock C.1911

Enrich your perspective. There is an old adage: “The more you know, the more you grow”. Any opportunity to learn something new, to be challenged anew, is great for character-building by seeing the world through refreshed eyes. Clockmaking or any hobby helps one differentiate from others and provides key examples of overcoming adversity or tackling a difficult situation and emerging on the other side.

museum — American Watch and Clock Collectors Museum, USA

Keeps you youthful. Establishing and maintaining a hobby is a healthy habit to form not just now but for your later years. Hobbies are excellent for brain health and help stave off cognitive decline. The older you become the more difficulty you will have struggling to fill your time with meaningful activities. Beginning a hobby early in life pays dividends in the long run much like an interest-bearing investment.

Combine your hobby with other interests. Photography and traveling are two other of my interests. Blogging is another, of course. Clockmaking combines all of those interests and as a side benefit my wife, who is also my travel partner and clock locator, provides encouragement every day.

It makes one interesting. Talk about your occupation or your grandchild and before long people’s eyes begin to glaze, but mention a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion, a clock that hung in a railway station nearby, a rare clock bought for next to nothing and ears perk up.

Crispi clock back from the horologist — Junghans Crispi wall clock, C.1898

A great way to relieve stress. Hobbies provide stress relief simply because it is an oasis, a way of disconnecting temporarily and we all need a place of refuge in trying times.

We are nearing the end of the pandemic and folks are returning to their former routines. If you have found a new hobby in the past year there is no doubt you have certainly acquired new skills, renewed confidence and furthered your knowledge. Don’t stop now!

June 4, 2021

Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection

Eight years ago I acquired my first Arthur Pequegnat clock. In the years following, I have added to my collection and now have a total of 8. Although my collection of Pequegnat clocks is very modest by comparison to a dedicated Pequegant collector it is a good start and I would certainly like to add to that number in the future.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest-lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. They made a wide variety of different styled clocks from 1904 through to 1941 from shelf and mantel clocks to wall clocks and floor models.

The time and strike with signature nickle-plated steel plates — Nickle-plated steel or brass plates

Unfortunately, it is very difficult to date a Pequegnat clock, except for what is termed pre and post-Berlin, the location of the company’s manufacturing plant. Clocks made before 1917 were inscribed “Berlin, Canada” on the dial face. Kitchener, Ontario was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 then the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916.

Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the town fathers decided the name Kitchener was less offensive and the change was made midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario, Canada.

Most Arthur Pequegant clock movements are stamped with the company name but there are no date marks on movements indicating when it was made. Clocks made after the First War wore the company name plus Canada under the number 6 on the dial face. For example, clocks such at the Canadian Time were made from 1904 to 1941 and are separated in age by the Berlin label consequently, my Canadian Time wall clock with the Canada label could be as old as 104 or as “new” as 80 years old.

One distinctive feature on many movements is the use of nickel plating for both brass and steel plates.

Clock face Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock — Arthur Pequegnat Company name

Many models continued in production right up to 1941. By 1941, the demands of World War II armament makers for brass, the essential ingredient in clock movements as well as the growing popularity of the electric clock, forced the Arthur Pequegnat company to cease production.

And now, beginning with the first clock acquired in 2013.

The Canadian Time

My first Pequegant, purchased in September 2013 hung in the Intercolonial Rail Station waiting room in Pictou, Nova Scotia.

The seller arranged the purchase of the clock just prior to the station’s decommissioning in 1993. It is in very good condition, missing its door clasp but otherwise intact. There are a few scratches and nicks consistent with its age but nothing objectionable.

The Brandon (2nd edititon)

I found this clock in an antique shop just outside Truro, Nova Scotia in 2014.

The case is in excellent condition but the movement was quite worn. Had I known more about servicing clocks at the time of purchase I would not have sent it to a clock repair specialist. It is one of two in my Pequegant collection serviced by someone other than myself. This is the Brandon II. The Brandon 1, the first edition, was made prior to 1918, and had an ornate pressed wood bezel. This one is simpler in design.

The Maple Leaf “Fan-top”

Next came my first Maple Leaf kitchen clock, known for its unique lower tablet of scattered maple leaves and a distinctive maple leaf pendulum.

Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock

This clock, bought in 2015, was also serviced by a clock professional. The case was in very poor condition. Stripping a case is an absolute last resort as far as I’m concerned but the finish on this clock was pretty bad. I could not leave it as it was.

To Pequegnat collectors, it is known as the fan-top.

The Simcoe

Three years later, the Simcoe followed me home. It was bought at an antique shop in Victoria, British Columbia in 2018.

It is not particularly attractive. It is the only mantel clock in my Pequegnat collection and it is from the “Berlin” period.

The Bedford

2018 was a good year because I acquired 4 Pequegnat clocks. This was number two of that year.

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock — Bedford shelf clock

This clock was gifted to me by a reader. He asked if I wanted the clock but I had to pick it up in Quebec which was on our way to a summer cottage in central Canada. The movement was in very good condition but the case was damaged having taken a plunge off a high shelf.

The movement was serviced without issue but the case required extensive intervention.

The third purchase that year and the fifth in my collection is the Maple Leaf Pointed Top

The Maple Leaf “Pointed Top”

There are 4 Maple Leaf clocks made by Pequegnat. Any version of the Maple Leaf is sought after by Canadian collectors but this one has distinctive pointed side columns, hence the nickname.

Although termed a kitchen clock it could easily have been placed in a living room or parlour.

The Moncton

The last 2018 acquisition was a clock that I had in the back of my mind for quite some time and I was waiting for the right price. This is an excellent copy that is very presentable and looks great on our kitchen wall.

It is a post-Berlin double spring time-only 15-day clock. Many were used in rail stations despite the fact that they were spring-driven. Weight-driven clocks were preferred for their accuracy but the Moncton was up to the task as a timekeeper.

And the last.

The Canuck

This is the only true Pequegant “gingerbread” clock in my view.

Arthur Pequegnat Canuck kitchen clock — Canuck kitchen clock

The case was refreshed and the dial was redone. The movement was also serviced without issue.

These are all keepers. Most Pequegants have kept their value over the years and in Canada, they are regarded as quality clocks for the masses. They were well built, well-designed movements with a distinctive Canadian charm as many were named after cities in Canada.

A hall clock would complete my modest collection.

May 22, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #32 – Advice on learning how to bush a movement

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face, a clock you would like me to profile, my advice on your particular clock concern or a general clock question. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

KB writes, “Hi Ron, I have been following your blog with interest, I have a a interesting collection of clocks, longcase, carriage and mantle. I am now in the process of restoring them. I need some help with bushing, can you please tell me how you do this.
Many Thanks”

My reply

“You can hand bush, use a drill press or a bushing machine such as the Bergeon Bushing machine as demonstrated in this video. The bushing work is at the 6:40 point of the video if you want to skip ahead.

Otherwise, this article might be of help.

Use the keyword in the Search box on my blog to find more articles on bushing a movement.

Hope this helps.

Ron”

May 18, 2021

Servicing clocks and dealing with clock suppliers

I want to share my experiences dealing with clock suppliers and let me begin by saying that my experiences have been largely positive.

I have been repairing and restoring clocks for the past 10 years and since I live in Canada I generally deal with one mechanical clock parts supplier out of Toronto, Ontario, Perrin. They are excellent for most of my needs, but they do not have everything and from time to time I must locate special or unique parts through other suppliers such as Merritts, Timesavers, and Ronell from the USA and Meadows and Passmore in England.

For example, I recently completed the restoration of an Ingraham Grecian shelf clock, circa 1871, and it required a new set of hands. The hour hand that came with the clock was too short and the minute hand was the incorrect style. My goal in this case is a clock that is as authentic looking as possible and incorrect hands always takes away from a clocks appearance.

My Canadian supplier did not have the correct hands and eventually my search brought me to an out-of-country supplier, Timesavers.

Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo

Ingraham Grecian with correct sized moon hands

Had I ordered just a set of hands the shipping cost would have been substantial.

In order to justify the purchase I added additional parts; 2 smoothing broaches, a Seth Thomas #2 maintaining spring, brass weight cable, a riffler set, and a bob wire set. The total came to $36US. The shipping and processing fee is $24US. Factoring in the rate of exchange the order cost me $82CDN.

If my Canadian supplier had everything I needed the cost would have been $20 less. It was not a significant difference in this case but it was worth it to find the correct hands.

What are the costs?

The sourcing of parts from various suppliers especially outside Canada can be expensive when administrative costs, shipping fees, exchange rates and import duty are included.

Some suppliers, however, require a minimum order. Others apply a credit card fee for international transactions, still others apply a processing fee and occasionally there is import duty. In almost every case the cost is higher and in some cases, it may not be worth it.

There are a number of choices for shipping but the cheapest method is not always “cheap”. Ground shipping in Canada is fairly inexpensive. Many out-of-country suppliers ship by air and the cost can be significantly higher.

That little $2.99 part can easily cost $20 or more after all costs.

Parts Availability

Not every supplier is going to have what you want. There are similarities from one supplier to another but there are also differences. For example, one is likely to find brass carriage clock feet from an English supplier because bracket and carriage clocks are much more common in that part of the world. English suppliers will also carry more tall case, and carriage clock parts and obviously, American suppliers will have many parts for clocks made in the USA.

The upside is that by knowing the various suppliers and their inventories I am able to satisfy most of my clock parts needs. If I only need one part I will always add additional items to justify the shipping and other costs.

My strategy for sourcing parts

If I were in the clock business and required one part, I would pass all costs on to the customer. I do not run a repair service and can afford to put a project aside if it needs parts and wait till I can justify an order.

I build a list of parts using an Excel spreadsheet, and when I feel there is enough to justify an order I pull the trigger. I can afford to wait.

As far as prices are concerned, companies such as Timesavers in the US have locked in their prices till 2022 while prices for some items at Perrin, a Canadian supplier, have increased marginally in the past year. Still, I buy Canadian when I can.

When ordering, if there is an offer of a free parts catalogue I always ask for one.

I also take advantage of every opportunity when I find pendulums, clock keys and other sundry items in flea markets and antique shops and snap them up, IF the price is less than I would buy from a supplier.

Clock parts are not cheap. If you are looking at clockmaking as a hobby factor in the cost of basic and more advanced tools but know that consumables can cost much more in the long run.

From my experience, most suppliers are excellent to deal with are and the service is speedy and professional. Just be mindful of all those other fees. It can really add up!

May 15, 2021

First blog post – 6 years ago

Clock collecting from a beginner’s perspective. That was the subject of my first blog post six years ago. Since then I have seen a lot of excellent and not-so-good blogs come and go but I wanted to give it my best shot and after 6 years, well, I am still here.

I started with a free WordPress plan, moved to a personal plan and then, this year, to a Premium plan. I now permit advertising on my site but my only goal is to recoup costs for server space and domain name. Anything extra is gravy.

In the early days I would stop blogging in the summer and resume in the fall. That did not work so well as my viewership fell off and I had to rebuild after the holidays. Now I schedule all my articles in advance. In fact, I typically have about 15-18 articles “in the can” at any given time. Having an inventory of articles means there is no need to scramble with something new every 3-4 days, my typical interval between articles. Some of you bloggers must know how hard it is to put words together when inspiration is lacking.

I am not sure what I was expecting 6 years ago but now have a dedicated following, receive many interesting letters each week, have met people through my blog and it seems people appreciate my content. This is reflected in statistics which are the lifeblood of any blog and it’s those daily figures that keep a blogger motivated. For instance, I have more views in a typical day than I had in the first 3 months of my blog.

Not once do I claim to be a professional horologist but after 10+ years in clock repair as a hobbyist I think I know something by now.

Welcome to my first blog post written May 15, 2015 which I will present word for word.

I regard myself as a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a unique talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.

It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock. Why start with a Chinese-made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. It was cheap, it piqued my interest in collecting and repair and it was something to practice on. I then moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.

Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, known as the “Fan-top”

My blog will profile clocks in my collection both vintage and antique as well as describe my attempts at repair. Along the way I will seek advice from you, the reader, from clock forum sites and whatever information I can find online.

Clock collecting is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling (and now, writing). Locating good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia and Canada, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting that one-of-a-kind deal.

Most photos on this site are my own. Photos from other sources will be given full credit. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical wonders and anything about their provenance will included as well.

Forestville Westminster chime mantel clock

Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I hope to share my frustrations and my successes.

As Winston Churchill once said, “Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm”.

I have stayed true to form since then and continue to publish 7 to 9 articles per month. Since then I have acquired dozens of antique and vintage clocks from all over Canada and probably have upwards of 80 clocks in my collection at this point. I have also said goodbye to an additional 20 clocks through local sales and as gifts. It remains a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy although occasionally I have done some paid and pro bono work.

If you have stayed with me since the beginning, thank you, but if you are new to my blog or following for the first time, welcome!

Anyway as I said 6 years ago, “Stay tuned”.

May 13, 2021

A marriage of two makers, Waterbury and Seth Thomas

This clock is an antique store find not too far from where I live. It was high on a shelf and the price was not visible. I asked the shopkeeper to take it down so that I could check the price ($40) and verify that it had a mechanical movement.

I opened the back panel, quickly glanced at the movement and the trademark stamp appeared to be Ansonia. I had worked on an Ansonia Syria shelf clock in the past year and it looked quite similar but it was an odd looking movement for an Ansonia. Ansonia movements generally have an arched plate, this one had a hump. No matter, I bought it.

While at home I was able to examine the clock more closely.

What did I buy?

I discovered that the movement is made by the Seth Thomas Clock Co. not by Ansonia. The movement was made for about 12 years and was available from 1890 to 1902. The style of the case is also from the same period.

An exhaustive search of Seth Thomas clocks on the internet using keywords such as, shelf, parlour (parlor), cabinet, carved oak and mantel produced nothing. I then navigated to a well-known Seth Thomas database site, poured through hundreds of listings and again, zilch.

I began to realize that the case might not have been made by Seth Thomas, after all.

However, I was determined to find the maker. I searched for clocks made by other companies, starting with E.N Welch, Ansonia (because it is similar in style to the Syria), Gilbert, Sessions and finally Waterbury. When I used the term “Waterbury cabinet clock” I found it on an auction site. So, now I have a case made by a different maker than the movement.

What is a marriage?

Among clock circles it is generally accepted that if a clock has significant parts from another source, particularly the movement and put into a period correct case from a different maker, it is considered a marriage. If it has parts sourced from a number of other clocks it is a Frankenstein or Frankenclock. While this clock is not quite a Frankenclock it is certainly a marriage.

I am actually disappointed that this clock is a marriage

The case is a Waterbury model called the “Wren”. I found three Wren models, two with paper dials and one with the identical dial pan as my clock. It may well be that this dial pan is original to the case.

The concave brass bezel and glass are certainly more recent. When I first looked at the clock I knew that the brass bezel and glass were incorrect but that did not stop me from buying the clock. The original bezel would have been a piecrust design with flat glass. This glass bezel is from a 1930s vintage clock.

The back access door is made of plywood, a recent addition and, of course, there is no label. The original panel would have been made of solid wood and screwed to the sides of the case with a circular tin access port. The label would have been located on the outside under the port door or underneath the base,

Does the movement run?

The movement is complete with pendulum bob and ST key. It was sold as a non-running clock, but will the clock run?

While the movement was still in its case I applied mainspring oil to the tight mainspring, allowing a few minutes for penetration. I then removed the verge so that the time train would run freely, using my finger as a brake on the escape wheel. It was sluggish at first but eventually the sticky time side mainspring made several soft clunking sounds as it ran down.

You can see the very tight time-side mainspring in the next photo. Grime and built-up dirty oil over the years will seize a mainspring.

Once the mainspring was partially let down I reattached the verge and the clock would stop after a minute or so. There was definitely power going to the escape wheel but something else was amiss. It would skip a tooth or two with every rotation which told me that the pallets were too far from the escape wheel. There is an adjustment screw on an arm which allows the pallets to be moved closer (or further) to the escape wheel. I eventually found the correct distance and the clock began to run normally. At the same time I opened the crutch loop wider to allow more impulse.

This is certainly no substitute for an overhaul but a good diagnostic tool.

Meanwhile, the strike side ran perfectly.

The movement is running and keeping good time but it needs a cleaning and several wear issues addressed.

Seth Thomas 8-day time and strike movement

Next steps?

I am actually disappointed it is a marriage. Buying a clock is always a risk and if I had paid many times more for this clock I would have asked for my money back.

I am not sure what I am going to do with it but I am inclined to service it and perhaps put it on the market. If I sold it I would certainly disclose the fact that it has a period correct replacement movement from another maker.

Nevertheless, it would make an attractive clock once the case is cleaned, the movement is properly serviced and has the correct glass and bezel.

And, if I like it enough I might keep it.

May 9, 2021

E Ingraham Mystic parlour clock servicing

This E. Ingraham & Co. clock is a garden variety parlour clock. There is nothing special about it but among parlour clocks, it has nice lines and reflects a more conservative approach to clock designs of the late 19th century. It is an 8-day time and strike clock purchased from a local antique store in the spring of 2019. I have recently serviced a number of clocks in preparation for sale and I also considered selling this one. While I am not in the business of selling clocks I will let go of the odd one to keep my collection manageable. My wife feels that it is a keeper though and I agree.

This was a running clock before I took it apart and my goal is to give it a good cleaning and address wear issues

Stamped in the middle of the front plate is “E Ingraham Co patent date Oct 8, 78 Nov 11, 79, Bristol Conn.” On the inside floor below the pendulum, it is stamped “Manufactured by the E. Ingraham & Co, Bristol Conn”. It was not a common practice to stamp the inside floor but it is an interesting feature.

E Ingraham parlour clock with Swigart dial

Tran Duy Ly’s book on Ingraham clocks shows this model, the Mystic, from the 1897 catalogue. The clock sold new for $6.50. Although found in the 1897 catalogue it might have been made some years earlier. Two numbers are neatly etched into the lower right-hand side of the front plate and they are H25,915 and H27,475. They look like service dates, Sept 1915 and April 1975.

There is a stylized “S” logo on the dial face. Some might mistakenly take it for a Sessions clock. The dial is a replacement made by E&J Swigart, a supplier of replacement dials along with other clock and watch supplies. Swigart went out of business in October of 1992. 1972 was the last year they made reproduction clock dials and this appears to roughly coincide with the 1975 service date.

Assessment of the movement

I have worked on a number of Ingraham movements, some with helper springs and some without. It looks to me that helper springs were added, which is not a bad thing and they will stay on the movement. Installing helper springs to ensure levers drop as they should is not an uncommon practice.

Normally these old movements are in varying degrees of wear and quite often there are punch marks around almost every pivot hole plus they are very dirty. This movement has had 13 bushings installed and is surprisingly clean for its age.

This was a running clock before I took it apart and my goal is to give it a good cleaning and address wear issues along the way. It might require some intervention but my first impression is that it looks very good.

I found a bent second wheel pivot on the strike side. Before blaming a previous repair it is possible that I was the culprit. Both mainsprings were clamped to restrain their power but when I removed the top plate a wheel sprung out from the strike side. Evidently, the strike side mainspring still had residual power remaining and might have bent the pivot. It was easily straightened.

The main and second wheels on both sides are inscribed for location, so, that is helpful. The strike side mainspring arbour hook has been repaired although the pin is loose and had to be secured. It also appears both mainsprings are replacements. The warning wheel lantern pinion shroud has also been repaired. The clutch on the motion works looks like a repair but I have seen at least one other Ingraham like it, so, I’m not sure.

This clock has had a lot of attention and has led an easy life. The repairs are neat and tidy and appear professionally done.

But there is some wear. The clock requires bushings on both the time side and the strike side. One on the time side and 3 on the strike side, one new, and 3 replacement bushings.

Reassembly and testing

The third wheel on the strike side is a combined locking and pin wheel with 2 locking pins and 2 hammer pins. There is no cam on this arbor, unlike many other American movements. The spaces between the pins allow for the drop lever to descend.

The count wheel is advanced by two protruding pins on the third wheel lantern shroud. It is necessary to ensure that the count wheel is firmly in place, not loose but not too tight, so the third wheel pins can advance the count. The warning wheel is set about half a revolution to set up the strike. During reassembly one of the two lock pins is placed on the locking lever, the end of which has a hook. This is to permit the count lever to go into one of the deep slots.

Since I have worked on a couple of Ingraham movements in the last month there was no need to separate the plates to make additional adjustments.

Unlike earlier Ingraham movements that have no passing strike on the half-hour, this has one.

It is on the test stand and I will let it run for a cycle or two before returning it to its case.

It’s really nice to work on a clock that has been so obviously well cared for. It will look great and run well though the only item that detracts from the clock is the Swigart replacement dial.

May 1, 2021

HAC/HAU movement servicing

The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century

Bought on an online estate auction site earlier this year, servicing the movement is the subject of this post. Once the movement is serviced, the next step is to address dirt and grime on the case and see what I can do to improve the look of the dial although I am not very hopeful that I can do much to improve it.

For those unfamiliar with the HAC acronym, it stands for Hamburg American Clock Company, a well known German company acquired by Junghans in the late 1920s. It is otherwise known as Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik or HAU. Kind of a strange name for a German clock company but that is how the original investors wanted it named.

I have a number of German clocks including familiar makers such as Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.

Assessment of the movement

It is a typical 14-day German time and count-wheel strike circa 1900 to 1910. It is a robust and almost industrial looking movement and perhaps made early in this series of movements. It could be the type #21 although I can find nothing to confirm it.

The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century. This movement has slightly thicker plates, no cutouts, and no extraneous holes and looks sturdy.

HAC clock movement, dirty and very tarnished

It has been worked on in the past, the strike side mainspring having been replaced at some point in the clock’s life. The time side has the HAC cross arrows stamped on the mainspring and appears to be original.

It doesn’t look as though there were issues at the time when the mainspring was replaced, no punch marks around the pivot holes or new bushings, for example, but there are wear issues now and that is to be expected in a 100+ year old clock movement.

In total the movement required 9 bushings, 6 on the strike side and 3 on the time side; 4 on the backplate, and 5 on the front plate. A couple of pivot holes are questionable and exhibit some wear and out of an abundance of caution I bushed them and why not while I have the movement apart. As expected there is more wear on the lower parts of the trains.

The bushing work went as expected. Some of the pivots are quite small and required 2.50mm OD bushings which I don’t often use but have plenty of them in my supply.

Ultrasonic cleaning did not do much to brighten up the brass plates, but to me aesthetics is unimportant. My goal, as always, is simply to have a properly serviced movement that runs well.

Assembly and testing

The movement was assembled and oiled. Both the strike and the time side are running well. There were no particular problems setting up the strike side other than a couple of attempts setting up warning before I got it right.

It continued to run well during the next couple of weeks.

It is a 14-day movement but I find with these German movements that winding them once per week ensures more accurate timekeeping.

April 27, 2021

Fleet Time Clock – servicing the movement and then disaster

This Fleet Time, time and strike mantel clock is essentially a plain, garden variety clock with a walnut finish, flat front, a slightly domed top, and step-side features on corner feet. The dial is heavily tarnished and the glass bezel that should be soldered to the chapter ring is detached. These bezels often go missing and at least this one came with the clock.

The clock has some issues, none of which are insurmountable. The plan is to refinish the case, attach the bezel, clean-up the dial or replace it, install new glass, and service the movement.

In this post servicing the movement is the focus.

The movement looked reasonably good when I received it and it may have had some bushing work done in the past but once apart it was clear to me that it might never have been worked on beyond a cleaning. It ran when I got it and one is tempted to leave it as is but it was dirty, had some wear and long overdue for a good cleaning.

Servicing the movement

Disassembly and testing for wear

I discovered two troubling issues when I had it apart. I put the wheels together to check for wear and I noticed the escape wheel was a fair distance along the arbour from its correct position adjacent to the leaf pinion (no photos, sorry). The pallets were contacting the very edge of the wheel. My staking set comes in handy from time to time and it was needed to close the gap between the wheel and the pinion.

Using light taps from a hammer and an appropriately sized punch I drove the wheel closer to the pinion. The pallets now contact the middle of the wheel as they should. Odd!

The second was an erratic beat during the testing phase of the time side. With a beat amplifier connected, I could hear the movement go ever so slightly in and out of beat, yet the movement continued to run. There are a number of possibilities but one is a bent escape wheel arbour which, in this case, was the culprit. Bent arbours are not difficult to straighten but care must be taken to bent them carefully so as to prevent a break. A broken arbour can be a very frustrating clock problem.

Once the 2 issues were out of the way it is on to cleaning the parts, inspecting and polishing the pivots, pegging the pivot holes, followed by bushing work. Most of the bushings that were installed were on the strike side. In fact, 4 of six, 3 on the backplate and one on the front plate, strike side, and the two on the time side were on the second wheel. Two were 2.5 OD bushings. I work on a lot of American and European clocks and cannot recall using bushings that small.

Testing

After cleaning and bushing work is completed the rack, snail, levers, and strike hammers/levers are attached.

Since the star wheel is on the outside of the plate I thought attaching the strike hammers would be simple. Not so much!

Again as in all movements with star wheels, the strike paddles must sit between the star points. One was fine, the other hung on the tip of a point. Rather than attempt to force the star into position, the strike side was partially disassembled and the star wheel was re-positioned. Yes, it meant removing wheels on the strike side to change the orientation of the star wheel but it is best to do it correctly rather than risk damage to the gear.

On this movement, the mainsprings can be removed without disassembling the movement. Handy for such things as replacing a broken mainspring and making the above adjustment.

The movement was on the test stand for two eight-day cycles and now it is time to return it to its case.

Just when everything seemed to go well – disaster

I polished the 3-rod gong and mounted it and the movement within the case. I wound the strike side fully and then wound the time side. Just as I was feeling resistance, CLUNK, and then the arbour turned freely. Did the mainspring slip off the winding arbour or, did the mainspring break?

Sourcing a mainspring is not a problem but when I removed the barrel I discovered two broken and one bent tooth on the mainspring barrel plus a broken mainspring. Make that three broken teeth since a bent tooth cannot be straightened.

I do not have the specialized equipment to make and install new teeth and sourcing a 60 tooth barrel that is the exact height and depth would be a challenge. Worse, the catastrophic shock of the broken mainspring took out one leaf of the second wheel pinion.

When the mainspring breaks on the arbour end, which occurred in this case, the power is released uncontrolled, and causes damage to the barrel, the second wheel or both. When the mainspring breaks at the other end it tries to unwind and the loose end provides sufficient resistance, that is, a much slower release of the energy, and is less likely to cause major damage. In the latter case the mainspring is the only thing that is damaged and it can be easily replaced. In the former, both the barrel and second wheel need to be repaired or replaced.

This is an unusual situation, but it happens.

Fleet second time wheel with bent pinion leaf which cannot be straightened

The movement was aside to consider next steps. In the meantime, the plan is to locate a donor movement. The power was let down on the strike side, and everything was placed in a sealed plastic bag and marked for storage.

I’ll be honest, this situation bummed me out and it took a week to return to servicing another movement.

The clock case

The plan, after servicing the movement, was to devote a separate post on the case but since the movement is non-functional there is not much point. While the movement was on the test stand, I spent hours on the case, stripping, finishing, and polishing including swapping out the dial and broken glass with one from a Blackforest clock from the same period (both companies used the same suppliers). The case came out better than expected but now there is no movement to put in it.

Fleet Time case — Fleet Time refinished case and replacement bezel and dial

The most disappointing part? I was at the very end of the project. The movement and rod gong were installed in the beautifully reconditioned case and I was preparing it for its first run after having tested it for two weeks. I did not expect it to go out with such a destructive bang.

I asked a clock friend for some advice. He says that although the barrel teeth and leaf pinion can be fixed it is usually not worth it because the process is so time consuming. “What do you do?”, I said. “I collect movements that are used as donors for times such as this”, he replied.

A sad end to an otherwise satisfying servicing.

April 18, 2021

Ingraham Grecian – servicing the movement

After having completed work on the case and dial pan of the Ingraham Grecian time and strike shelf clock it is now on to servicing the movement.

Assessing the movement

The movement is in surprisingly good condition for its age. It has been serviced in the past, when, I don’t know. Here’s what I discovered during the inspection.

In an early servicing, 3 bushing holes were punched. Many years ago clock repairers used a punch to close pivot holes that had elongated after years of wear and it was considered an acceptable practice at that time. Not today!
The mainsprings and alarm spring appear to be original and the alarm mechanism showed no evidence of wear.
At a later point a clock repairer installed 3 brass bushings, 1 on the front plate and 2 on the backplate.
Pivots had been replaced on one end of the warning wheel and one end of the third wheel time-side.
The thin brass strap that trips the alarm has been re-riveted.

The repairs were neat and professional.

But there were problems

While there were some decent repairs, someone attempted a homemade fix and it became a non-working clock. I suppose that is to be expected from a clock that is 149 years as it passes through several hands.

It appears that the clock was eventually passed on to someone who had little knowledge of things mechanical. It might have been simply out of beat and an attempt was made to adjust the crutch by twisting the crutch loop around the pendulum leader. I can only assume that in their attempt to access the mechanism to “fix” it, the dial and brass bezel were damaged in the process.

Without impulse the clock would run a minute and stop and would never run in that condition.

I reshaped the crutch loop and bent the crutch slightly to achieve a healthy beat and the clock began to run.

While the clock was running I discovered a bent escape wheel tooth. It was running despite this issue, but the verge would occasionally skip the bent tooth. A bent tooth is often the direct result of transporting a clock without removing the pendulum bob.

Servicing the alarm

There is not much to the alarm mechanism. Three pins hold the 2 small plates. I doubt this alarm was used much, It was taken apart, parts cleaned in the ultrasonic, reassembled and oiled.

Servicing the movement

After letting down the mainsprings and disassembling the movement the first order of business is to straighten the bent escape wheel tooth. The trick is to “draw out” the tooth out with a pair of smooth flat jawed pliers. It is important not to stretch the tooth as this will introduce other escapement issues. Unbending the tooth is a simple procedure but a disaster if things go wrong.

Next is the inspection of pivots, lantern pinions, wheel teeth, arbours, cut pinions, of which there are two in the motion works. All looked good. The gears were meshing well on both time side and the strike side.

Following the inspection is parts cleaning in the ultrasonic machine. Once the parts are dry I inspected the movement more closely for any issues I might have missed. Next is polishing the pivots.

Once the pivots are polished it is time for bushing work if required. In the case of this movement 2 are required for the front plate and 3 for the back. On the backplate, one of the bushings is the escape wheel bridge.

There were two other pivot holes that were iffy and okay for now but since I am keeping the clock it will be inspected in 3 or 4 years for wear.

Reassembly comments

The third wheel on the strike side is a combined locking and pin wheel with 2 locking pins and 2 hammer pins. There is no cam, unlike many other American movements. The spaces between the pins allow for the drop lever to descend.

The fourth wheel is the warning wheel only and it is not used for locking.

Unlike later Ingraham movements that have a passing strike on the half-hour, this is an hour strike only.

The count wheel is advanced by two protruding pins on the third wheel lantern shroud, another unusual feature. It is important to ensure that the count wheel is firmly in place, not loose but not too tight, so the third wheel pins can advance the count. The stiffness can be adjusted by bending the brass clip on the count wheel.

During reassembly, the warning wheel is set about half a revolution to prepare for the strike. Also during reassembly one of the two lock pins is placed on the locking lever, the end of which has a hook. This is to permit the count lever to go into one of the deep slots.

Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get it right. Usually, I must make an adjustment or two after the plates are together but I was lucky the first time.

When I finished servicing the movement the new hands arrived from a supplier. So, here it is with new hands attached and the movement back in the case.

The clock has been returned to its former glory.

April 13, 2021

Seth Thomas #2 has stopped – cleaning and bushing work should put it right

Perhaps recognizable as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was found in many railway stations, offices. libraries and other public places across America during the last century, a testament to its accuracy and dependability. It is a robust, accurate, well-engineered, and dependable timepiece that was made by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, a run of 90 remarkable years. Few clocks can claim that kind of longevity.

It is an iconic American clock and every serious clock collector wants one.

This particular clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and has a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numbers with spade hands. The bow-tie between the wood dial bezel and the drop is one piece while earlier versions had a 3-piece “bow-tie”. It has a seconds hand 2 inches above the center cannon. However, it is not a true seconds hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. All but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear.

It is 36 ½ inches tall and veneered in mahogany. It has 77A stamped on the bottom right of the movement with the letter “K” underneath and has a small ST stamp near the middle of the front plate. Some versions of the 77 have lantern pinions while this has cut or leaf pinions.

It has stopped – it needs a cleaning and perhaps a bushing or two

Lately, the clock has been stopping intermittently. I would nudge the clock along and it would run 5-10 minutes at a time and stop. I replaced the suspension spring and all seemed good as the clock ran for a couple of weeks. I thought I had addressed the issue but it began to stop again!

I bought the clock three years ago. It was oiled shortly after I received it but it has not been serviced and now it is telling me that servicing is long overdue.

The movement is relatively simple in that it has 4 wheels. I disassembled the movement, pegged the pivot holes, and re-assembled it. There is wear but I have seen far worse in clocks that continue to run well. However, It appears that this movement does not tolerate wear.

Very disturbing are the aggressive, deep punch marks around most of the pivot holes. Punching around pivot holes to close them might have been an acceptable practice many years ago, but not today. The repair is crude and unprofessional.

Seth Thomas #2, aggressive punch marks around all four wheels on the backplate

The leaf pinions are in very good condition, wheel teeth look good and the verge has minimal wear.

Servicing the movement

In total up to 6 bushings are required.

I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.

Despite its apparent simplicity the parts are made to close tolerances and any wear has the potential to stop the clock. I don’t think this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.

I installed three bushings on the backplate; the second, third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.

The movement is clean, shiny, and mounted in the case for testing and minus the motion works gears.

Despite the fact that I have 4 movement test stands, none are appropriate for this movement because of the iron bracket onto which the movement and pendulum are mounted. I suppose I could probably adapt something. For now, into the case it goes for testing.

After three weeks the clock is running very well.

While the movement was out of the case I replaced both the maintaining power spring and the old cable with 3/64 inch brass weight cable. The brass cable has one feature I really like, a nylon core that prevents it from coiling. I also gave the pendulum bob and weight a polishing.

Cleaning and bushing work put the clock right. After the wear issues were addressed the clock not only runs better but polishing the brass improves its appearance.

April 9, 2021

Replacing a suspension spring on a Seth Thomas #2 Regulator

It should have been an easy fix but often when working with clock movements unexpected issues occasionally crop up.

The clock was purchased in the fall of 2018. This Seth Thomas #2 Regulator has had little done to it except oiling the movement and cleaning up the case. It is one of the most accurate mechanical clocks in my collection which is no surprise since these clocks were originally designed for offices and railways.

According to an online database, the lower section of the case was redesigned in 1922. This allows me to date the clock somewhere between 1922 and 1929. 77 weight-driven movements are very common. They were made sometime after 1915 and well into the 1940s. Perhaps the letter “K” under the 77A stamp on the movement is a clue as to exactly when it was manufactured.

It has a very attractive mahogany finish and it is a real conversation piece. There are probably more oak regulators than any other type of wood, so, mahogany, although not rare, is uncommon.

The suspension spring

A suspension spring is a thin band of steel called a “spring” by horologists by which the pendulum of a clock is suspended. It separates the pendulum rod and bob from the mounting post. Its purpose is to assist in controlling the rate of the pendulum swing.

The suspension spring looked tired when I first inspected the clock in 2018 and it was time for a replacement, sourced from my go-to Canadian supplier, Perrins.

What should have taken minutes stretched to an hour or more

Removing the movement prior to replacing the spring

Removing the movement consists of first removing the hands. A screw secures the minute hand while the hour hand is a friction fit and pulls straight out. The second hand also pulls off. Eight screws hold the face in place; 6 outside the chapter ring and two on either side of the second hand. Once the face is removed there is a wood crossbar, held by two larger screws in front of and either side of the movement, that must be removed.

Then the weight, which is hooked onto the pulley, is removed. There are 4 posts on the front of the movement, inboard on the bottom and above the plate screws on the top. They do not come out entirely but once unscrewed, the movement is released from an iron mounting bracket.

Next, the pendulum/rod which is hooked onto the suspension spring on the bracket is lifted out and put aside.

bracket for Seth Thomas #2 — The movement is mounted on a heavy cast iron bracket

Replacing the suspension spring

Once the bracket was exposed I thought it would be a simple matter of swapping out the old suspension spring for the new one. If it was not original, it is, nevertheless, quite old and likely weak with age. It probably can be done in place but it is much easier simply removing the cast iron mounting bracket which is held in place by 4 wood screws.

Laying the bracket out flat simplifies pushing out the pin holding the suspension spring.

I have come to learn that replacement parts from a supplier often must be made to fit and the suspension spring I bought is no exception. Using a pair of pliers, the pin was pushed out of the block. Once out I reamed the hole so that I did not have to struggle to install it. Except that the new pin did not fit the smaller hole in the post. So, rather than use the old pin a tapered brass pin replaced it.

Re-installation and testing

The bracket is then screwed back into the case with the suspension spring in place. The pendulum attaches to the end of the horizontal pins of the suspension spring but it is important to ensure that the end of the crutch wire, which has a 90-degree bend and hangs down from the movement goes through the opening in the pendulum.

The movement, face, and hands go back onto the clock. Push the hour hand in far enough, otherwise, it will rub against the minute hand and stop the clock.

There is very little space between the hour hand and the second’s hand. This is by design, and if you do not push the second’s hand in far enough you will know soon enough when interference stops the clock.

Level the clock case on the wall and observe the action of the pendulum.

What should have taken minutes stretched to over an hour. Now that the new suspension spring is in place, I have had a chance to look over the movement and it will be scheduled for a full servicing in the next month or so.

In the meantime, the clock is running well; there is slightly more amplitude in the pendulum swing than previously and it is keeping excellent time.

March 19, 2021

Daylight Savings – it is time to end it!

Daylight Savings Time has no place in our modern world. Of 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries observe Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe some form of daylight saving.

Top showing face and crown detail — Face of a Vienna Regulator clock C.1870

70 countries must live with it.

Clock face showing moon dial — Face of a Ridgeway grandfather clock C.1996

At 2:00am Sunday, set your clocks ahead one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.

Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. In Canada, we have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking — Canada Clock Co. cottage clock C.1883

How to set your mechanical clock(s)

Move the minute hand slowly clockwise to the correct time, stopping briefly for the quarter-hour on chiming clocks and the half-hour for striking clocks.
Do not move the minute hand backward as it risks damage to the movement. This should be regarded as a general rule, exceptions are some clocks where it is safe to do so (read your owner’s manual).

There has been a push to scrap the time-switch in Canada.

It is stupid, needless, senseless, and confusing.

March 14, 2021

E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock – first look and action plan

This article is the first look at one of my latest online auction finds, an E. Ingraham & Company shelf clock known as the Grecian.

The Ingraham Clock Company operated under a number of minor name variations over the years, E. Ingraham, E & A Ingraham, the E. Ingraham Company, E. Ingraham and Company from 1844 to 1885. Later The Ingraham Company made electric clocks and wristwatches. McGraw-Edison now owns the company and quartz clocks bearing the Ingraham name are still manufactured.

Ingraham Grecian shelf clock, a day after the auction purchase

Although not rare the Grecian is quite collectible. Patent dates on the label date the clock to around 1871. The only other one I have seen is at the American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol Connecticut, a mosaic maple and walnut version.

American Watch and Clock Museum in Bristol Connecticut

It is a handsome clock with clean lines. The E. Ingraham Grecian 8-day time and strike shelf clock is neoclassical in design. It is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today.

It is a distinctive clock. It has a moulded Rosewood bezel, carved volutes below the dial frame (or rosettes as Ingraham called them in his patent letters), and a Rosewood veneered case. The dial frame and bezel are one section that makes up the hinged front access door. There are walnut cased versions and mosaic as well but Rosewood has a certain exotic allure. Elias Ingraham was a case designer and no doubt had a hand not only in the design but the choice of woods used for case construction.

This clock was bought at an online auction in early January 2021. From the auction photos, I expected a clock that needed work and now, after having received it, I am pleasantly surprised that will not take much to service the movement and clean the case.

General condition

The case is Rosewood but because of the buildup of dirt and grime over the years, the grain and texture of the wood are hidden. Upon closer examination, there are some small chips of veneer missing from the corner edges of the base, not surprising given the age of the clock. The rounded top and volutes are perfect.

There is some wear on the top part of the base under the door and that is to be expected. The curved wood bezel is in very nice condition. The backboard has age-related cracks in two places but will not require a repair. There is a slight corner separation on the left side of the base but everything else is tight. The door clasp looks good.

The dial screws came out too easily and the screw holes are well worn. The dial has been taken off more than a few times to make adjustments. The dial is also misaligned as a result of the new screw holes. Both the minute and hour hands are incorrect. The moon hour hand is too short and the minute hand is a slender spade. Both will be replaced.

The painted zinc dial face, which for some reason is detached from the brass bezel, appears to be original with some flaking on the edges. There is a missing time side grommet. The alarm dial is loose, not seemingly attached to anything, and came off easily once the hands were detached. The brass bezel needs a good cleaning.

The unique green triangular label inside the case is in fair condition with pieces missing at the lower cracked section of the backboard. I found a loose 3cm piece at the bottom of the case which can easily be glued back in place. The alarm mechanism is in excellent condition. The spring on the alarm is typically broken on these old clocks; this one is fine. I doubt if it has seen much use. The bell is cast brass and there are two strike hammers; one on the inside, which is for the alarm, and one on the outside, the hour-strike hammer.

I was told by the seller that the clock would run for a few minutes, even strike but then it stops, which tells me that nothing is broken. The crutch loop is twisted around the pendulum rod and since there is no impulse it is not surprising the clock would stop. I doubt it ran more than a few seconds.

It is a pinned movement. Later movements have screws or bolts holding the plates together. The movement might have been worked on in the past although it is hard to tell. The two lower pins look original but the top pins look like replacements. If it was worked on it was done with care. There are no tell-tale signs such as marks, scratches, and punch marks that indicate past servicing. Since the mainsprings are wound tight I won’t know the extent of wear until I take the movement apart.

I can only guess that the butchered crutch and the detached dial are the results of someone who did not know what they were doing when making an attempt to get the clock to run.

The plan of action

The case: clean all wood surfaces thoroughly with Murphy’s Soap. Cleaning will no doubt remove remnants of the old shellac and new shellac prepared in the traditional manner (flakes and alcohol) will be applied to all the exterior surfaces. The finish will then be dulled with 4X0 steel wool.

The movement: The movement will be completely disassembled and inspected for wear, and cleaned. New bushings will be installed if needed. I made some adjustments to the crutch and ran the clock for two days and it was striking correctly during that period. The mainsprings look to be in good condition and provide plenty of power. The alarm mechanism which might never have been operational, will be taken apart and cleaned. The alarm dial is a friction fit and will be tightened up once the movement is reinstalled and should work as intended. The crutch loop will be repaired.

The dial: I will leave the dial as-is despite a little paint loss on the edges. Once the dial is aligned properly these should be hidden, for the most part. The dial pan has separated from the bezel. A past tinkerer used cellophane tape to secure the dial pan to the bezel and even attempted to solder two of the tabs, poorly I might add. These are fixable. More difficult is sourcing a 2 3/4 inch moon minute hand.

Well, that’s it for now. I plan to get started fairly soon. The only thing stopping me is a Seth Thomas #2 that has stopped and needs a look-see. There will be more on the Ingraham clock later.

March 13, 2021

Finding a repairperson for your mechanical clock

The past year will be remembered for many years. It was a very trying time for many of us but in the midst of the pandemic, there are positives. It was a time of reflection and a time that reminded folks of a past when life was simpler. More and more people have become interested in hobbies and perhaps collecting antiques in general or antique clocks in particular.

Seth Thomas adamantine mantel clock, C.1909

Perhaps you received a clock as a gift, inherited one, picked one up at an antique store, found a clock online that needs work or discovered that very rare clock that requires a little TLC to run perfectly and you want to have it running just like the good old days.

Junghans Corner feet finished — Junghans Sydney bracket clock C.1911

Two options

Basically, you have two options.

Try to fix the clock yourself, or,
Find someone to put the clock in working order.

Even if you bought a working clock, eventually it will stop running and it will require cleaning at the very least or major repairs if it is very worn.

You might attempt to fix a non-working clock yourself. With basic tools, you might get lucky with the repair of simple, cheap movements but eventually, you will require a professional. Working on clocks requires a certain skill set and plenty of patience. It takes years to attain a level of expertise not to mention the specialized equipment required to work on the mechanisms. For any high-quality or rare clock, you may not trust yourself to work on it yourself and will need a reputable clock repair person to make it right.

Scottish tall case clock — McLachlan tall case clock, C.1848

It may come as no surprise that there are not as many people involved in the clock repair business today as there were years ago. Clockmakers are a dying occupation. Clock repair businesses are closing when owners retire as there are not enough young people to carry on the tradition. Plus, in the digital age do analogue clocks make sense!

With so few skilled professionals left, finding a person to repair your clock requires time, effort, and research. At one time in my home province of Nova Scotia, there were a dozen repair shops operating in or near every major town. Today there are two reputable repair shops left and both are hours away from where I live. They perform excellent work but they are expensive, and why not, they provide an exclusive service.

Reputable clock repair shops have repair persons who have the necessary credentials to work on a wide variety of clocks. However, some repair shops have questionable work practices. How would you know? The Better Business Bureau is a good source to determine whether or not a business is in good standing. If a business is in good standing and has no complaints it is considered reputable according to BBB standards.

Local jewellers might advertise mechanical clock repair but very few have a certified repair person on site.

A second source is the American-based National Association of Watch Clock Collectors business directory which lists reputable repair services in Canada, the United States, Austria, Singapore, Switzerland, Ukraine, and the United Kingdom.

The National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, or NAWCC, has over 175 chapters, mostly in the United States, that are devoted to the repair and restoration of clocks. Members of this organization range from interested beginners to dedicated horologists. Consumers and interested collectors can receive answers to many clock questions with a free registration on the NAWCC Forum site. Guidance and direction can be provided to those seeking a repair person in their local area.

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site — Ingraham Huron shelf clock, C.1879

Those looking for a clock specialist in the UK should look for those individuals who have a membership in the Antiquarian Horological Society or AHS.

Contacting either of the above organizations or reading their publications will narrow down your choice of a clock repair specialist.

For those living in Germany, the Deutsche Gesellschaft für Chronometrie. is an excellent resource.

And finally, word of mouth. Connect with someone you know who works on clocks and watches and they likely will tell you not only where you can have your clock repaired but who is reputable and if the repair cost is reasonable.

Once you find that special clock person to repair your clock you can rest assured that it will be given the love and attention it deserves and take comfort in the fact that someone is available to look after your mechanical antique or vintage clock needs.

March 9, 2021

Daniel Dakota wall clock has stopped – why fix it?

A Chinese-made vintage Daniel Dakota time and strike 31-day wall clock purchase will not set you back a lot of money. These clocks are everywhere and they were made in the many thousands. I would bet that 99% of them have never seen the inside of a clock repair shop. They have cheap movements which seem to defy death, they last forever or end up unceremoniously thrown in the trash bin.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models — Daniel Dakota wall clock

The clock, which I bought in a junk shop some years ago, was gifted to a family member but it has been returned to me, not working; the boomerang effect. The family member has no desire to have it returned to them and I do not have a problem with that. Instead, I gifted them a much more refined German Schatz chiming bracket clock.

Chinese-made clocks have a design lifespan of about 20-25 years. They were never intended to be passed down as family heirlooms

Schatz W3 in a custom made case — Schatz W3

On online for-sale sites, these things are ubiquitous. Sellers believe these vintage clocks are worth something judging by the silly asking prices on online for-sale sites. On any given day, you will find dozens on eBay ranging in price from $30 to $160 and they will find new homes for the unsuspecting. Most are quartz but there is the odd mechanical one.

This is a Chinese-made clock. Most Chinese (or Korean) clocks of the 1960s have inexpensively manufactured movements with thin plates, thin stamped wheels, plenty of clips and washers, long dangerous mainsprings, and have every component made with cost-saving in mind. During the 1960s and 70s, there was a strong demand for mechanical clocks and Chinese manufacturers stepped in to fill it. These are clocks made for the masses and were good sellers in their day but have a design lifespan of about 20-25 years. They are tough but were never intended to be passed down as family heirlooms.

The 31-day run times mean that the mainsprings are very powerful and if they let go they are sure to do some damage not only to the moving parts inside but to anyone handling them. It is one reason why many in the clock repair business stay away from them.

However, they are surprisingly strong runners and will provide service for years while quite worn. If they stop, the cost of repair is far more than they are worth. When they stop, quartz movements often replace mechanical movements or the clock is simply thrown out.

If you have worked on an English or German time and strike movement most everything will be familiar to you in terms of wheel placement since the Chinese copied existing designs. Some components like the fly and the star wheel are designed differently but their function is the same, of course.

What is very different are the dangerous twist-on mainspring barrels housing long, powerful mainsprings which are not fun to work on.

Why service the movement

Not surprisingly, these clocks can easily be brought back to life if there are no serious issues.

During the course of disassembling a typical Daniel Dakota movement, if I discovered something seriously amiss such as broken teeth, seriously bent arbours/broken pivots or broken mainsprings, I would stop immediately. There is no point in expending time, energy and expense on a throw-away movement. There is no source of parts for these things and if the type of repair offsets its value, there is no point. If everything looks relatively good, servicing makes sense and the only cost would be time and perhaps a bushing or two.

Let’s look at this movement

This came to me as a non-working movement. The movement is very dirty, the plates are tarnished, but the wheels run relatively free, the gear teeth have little wear, the pivot holes look good, the mainsprings are strong and none of the components appear to be damaged.

A deeper dive revealed some interesting issues. Once I took the movement apart I discovered two key trouble spots, a bent escape wheel pivot, and a bent flywheel pivot. It is a wonder that it even ran but no surprise that it finally stopped.

Bent pivots can be repaired. All the lantern pinions are in excellent condition, with no worn wheel teeth and the mainsprings are strong. There were punch marks around several pivot holes, likely done while the movement was assembled.

Repairing a bent pivot and cleaning the movement

Care must be taken when addressing bent pivots. If the pivots break while attempting to straighten them there is not much point in going any further on a cheap clock unless practice in repivoting is the goal.

A lathe comes in handy but a portable electric drill will do. Place the wheel into the jaws and hand spin it to check the direction to bend it. Using a staking tool rather than a hammer means you can apply very little pressure, checking progress with each gentle bit of persuasion. It is soft steel and will take a little bending but don’t get carried away.

Both the escape wheel and the fly pivots were straightened. All other pivots were inspected and everything looked good. Now on to cleaning the movement in the ultrasonic machine.

The parts were dried and cleaned but the ultrasonic machine did little to reduce the tarnish on the plates. The movement will function quite well without shiny plates, purely a matter of aesthetics.

Once the plates were cleaned and pegged out I could see very little wear. The only enlarged pivot hole is the second wheel time-side, backplate which is not surprising since there is a heavy load on this wheel from the mainspring. This required a 1.50mm bushing with an OD of 3.50mm.

Reassembly

Seeing no other bushings holes requiring remediation, the movement is re-assembled.

Once the bottom nuts for the barrels and second wheel and cannon wheel are put on and tightened, the time side wheels are secured and the corner nut is next. Once that section of the movement is in place, the strike side wheels are coaxed into position. This is where a pivot locator is your best friend. The pivots are thicker than those found on a typical German movement but can still be bent through rough handling.

Last, are the levers, snail, rack, and hour wheel on the outside of the front plate.

Final thoughts

Was the exercise worth it? Of course! I have worked on dozens of similar (English, German) types of time and strike movements I always find something that adds to my learning. These movements are easy to work on, are surprisingly strong runners when in good order and presented no issues during servicing.

In total, it cost me my time plus one bushing. Would I send this off to a shop for repair? Of course not! Why pay $250 or more to repair a clock that is worth almost nothing on a good day but for sentimental reasons it may be important for some.

Why fix it? To sell it, of course! I’ve had it a few years and enjoyed it, a family member has had it for a while and enjoyed it and now it is time to pass it on.

March 4, 2021

Variables that affect antique and vintage clock prices?

Canadian made Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock, circa 1916, $300 (in Canada)

There are many types and styles of clocks and dozens of manufacturers. If you are a collector you know exactly what you are looking for and have a good idea of its approximate value. If you are not an “expert”, selecting an antique clock can be a daunting task. But this article is not about helping you find that special clock. It is about the variables that affect clock prices in 2021.

Over the years I have learned the value of many antique and vintage clocks. When I come across an interesting clock on an online for sale site or in an antique store I have several questions in mind. Is there anything special about it? When was it made? Is it rare? Is it historically significant? Is the price too high or too low and why? How much work must I put into it if it clearly needs TLC and will the seller accept a lower price? That said, I am prepared to walk away at any point.

For example, E. Ingraham clocks are common and can be had for very little money but the more desirable Ingrahams of the 1860s and 70s are those that Elias Ingraham had a hand in designing. The Ingraham Grecian is an attractive example of a clock that was designed in a period of American clock manufacturing where dappearance and uniqueness mattered.

Condition is important. One look at the case will tell me how well it was cared for. In my experience, it is pretty rare to find a clock that has been professionally serviced and many where a previous owner applied their limited skills to get it running. However, if you have the skills to service the movement and are handy at restoration, there are certainly bargains to be found.

If acquiring antique and vintage clocks is something you enjoy but have no knowledge of clock repair, the cost of servicing must be factored into the price particularly if you want it to run reliably.

Let’s assume that you are looking for an authentic antique or vintage clock that has not been altered in any way save for minor cosmetic touch-ups. What factors influence the price you pay for a clock today?

Here is a list of factors I would consider in making your next purchase and why you would pay more for some clocks and less for others.

Variables that affect clock prices today

Wall clocks generally command higher prices than mantel clocks, the exceptions are Asian wall clocks and the like that have little value.
Most mantel clocks less than 100 years old have little value.
Clocks that come from a prominent collection that are well cared for and in excellent condition are more desirable.
Demand in your local area affects price; Canadian-made clocks are sought after in Canada whereas the same clocks are almost worthless in the US.
Weight-driven clocks are more desirable than spring-driven clocks. The exception is the modern weight-driven grandfather clock whose value has plummeted in recent years.
Condition is key, a clock in excellent condition is worth more than one in poor condition or with parts missing.
Running clocks are worth (generally) more than non-running clocks.
A recently serviced clock is worth more than one that has either not been serviced in a long time or never serviced.
The same clock may be worth more than others that are the same or similar if it has special provenance i.e. a well-documented tall case clock that came from Grover Cleveland’s home.
A clock with a replacement movement is termed a marriage by collectors. Marriages are worth far less than an authentic clock but acceptable by some collectors.
Any clock that has had its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one is worthless.
One of the largest factors in a clock’s value is the manufacturer. Many from Sessions Clock Co. are rather ordinary and relatively inexpensive but some Seth Thomas Sonora Chime clocks, for example, have good value.
Age does not always equate to a higher price. A clock that is 170 years old is not necessarily worth more than one that is 50 years old.
Mechanism type; double and triple fusee clocks and pinwheel regulators are worth more than open-spring-driven mantel clocks or modern tall-case weight-driven clocks.
Some clockmakers are more desirable than others; generally speaking a German-made Winterhalder and Hofmeier mantel clock is worth more than a similar American-made Gilbert mantel clock. Assuming both are in the same condition, an unsigned four-glass French clock has a greater value than a branded American crystal regulator.

The Law of Supply and demand and the 30-hour ogee

The law of supply and demand is the theory that explains the interaction between the sellers of a resource and the buyers for that same resource. Generally, as price increases, people are willing to supply more and demand less and vice versa when the price falls. At the end of the day, the clock market is very unpredictable. Clocks on eBay that go for $400 one month are $100 the next.

An interesting example is a 30-hour ogee clock. Prior to the popularity of online auction sites 30-hour ogee clocks (below) were commanding prices in the hundreds of dollars. Antique stores had them in the $250-400 range and when the internet came along supply increased and prices dropped.

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee, circa 1860

I have paid low prices for some of my clocks but higher for what I call special clocks that are not necessarily rare but are made with some level of precision or unique in design.

Closing thoughts

In commercial transactions, the principle that the buyer purchases at his own risk in the absence of an express warranty is termed Caveat Emptor, or let the buyer beware. In the clock world, buyers have little or no recourse if those goods turn out to be defective, misrepresented, or broken. The best of luck trying to get your money back if you are a successful bidder on an online auction site and your package arrives in pieces.

Selecting and purchasing an authentic antique mechanical clock can be a daunting task but it can also be a very rewarding experience.

March 1, 2021

Junghans Crispi wall clock and strike woes

During the winter of 2017, I restored an antique Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock, circa 1898.

It came to me as a box of parts. I sensed the seller fully intended to complete the project but never got around to it but at least he reconstructed the case. I saw a challenge in that collection of dusty and dirty parts.

Much of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, dial, hands, coil gong, and movement bracket, the bottom base and top section of the case, crown, backboard, vertical columns, and most of the decorative trim. I added glass, smaller trim features, upper finials, and their bases.

Replaced some 40 years ago is the box frame and the front section that supports the right and left columns. Parts of the clock were evidently destroyed beyond repair and the remainder salvaged for later restoration which was never completed.

Junghans clock in pieces — _{How the clock came to me}

While much of the “newer pieces” are hidden, the previous owner took care to replicate woodworking techniques of the period aside from the use of Roberston screws on the back panel.

That aside, the movement was very dirty and had not been running for many years. Perhaps it last worked just before the Halifax Explosion of 1917. The previous owner informed me that the clock was in the family home in north-end Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) and the clock took a significant hit from that fateful blast on December 6th.

Very dirty movement, right out of the case

After completing work on the case, I set about working on the movement. During the course of disassembling/reassembling the movement, I not only broke the strike paddle but a retention spring as well. Back then (2017), my skills were not advanced enough to repair it so I had it professionally serviced.

_{Junghans movement, broken strike paddle}

Three months later I picked up the clock and hung it on my dining room wall. It ran perfectly for over two and a half years. Some months ago the strike became erratic. It would strike incorrectly, not at all, or incessantly till the mainspring ran down.

I had a number of other clock projects on the go so I kept the time side going and left it on the wall until December 2020.

Disassembly and Inspection

Once I took the movement apart I found a slightly bent strike side cam wheel arbor. There were no other bent pivots or worn pivot holes and everything else looked good. Back in 2017 during its stay in a clock shop it had had extensive bushing work done, 6 on the front plate and 6 on the rear plate. There was a small amount of dirty oil around the pivots and after 2 plus years that is to be expected.

During the course of manipulating the plates, I snapped the paddle arbor retention spring, again! This time I was able to repair it.

_{Junghans movement spring repair upper center, Threadlocker Red at the base of the spring}

There was enough of the spring to reuse. The wire is thin (0.5mm), very brittle and it does not take much pressure to break it. Using a micro drill with a 0.5mm HHS bit I drilled out the existing hole in the plate, reinstalled the spring, and applied Threadlocker Red to bond the spring to the plate.

Re-assembly

I cleaned the parts in the ultrasonic, pegged the pivot holes, polished the pivots, and re-assembled the movement.

_{Junghans movement work ready for the rear plate}

I took a couple of attempts to line up everything on the strike side; paddle in the deep slot, cam lever in the low part of the cam, and strike paddle aligned between the points on the star wheel while ensuring that the stop wheel pin was in the 12 o’clock (approximately) position. If you have worked on German count-wheel strike movements, all this should sound familiar.

One is tempted to bend a lever or two to correct the strike side behave but in my experience, unless someone has messed with a lever in the past, it is best to leave them alone.

Junghans clock — _{Junghans movement on the test stand}

And now for testing. After several days the movement is running well and the strike side is finally behaving itself. Since there is nothing amiss I will chalk this up to a strike side design that causes it to “wander” over time or that slightly bent cam wheel arbor. One or two cycles on the test stand should be sufficient before returning it to its case.

While it was on the test stand I decided to research this clock. I visited the Junghans archive catalogue site and discovered a few new-to-me details. The clock was available in the 1898 catalog as I suspected.

_{Four Junghans wall clocks in 1898 catalog; the Cripi second from left}

The clock case is described as “old oak” with burnished brass trimmings. The Crispi, as it was called, was designated #1758 and was available with a white or ivory-colored celluloid dial or a white or ivory-colored 5 3/4 inch enamel dial (this clock). The length is forty and a third inches (103 cm) and it is a 14-day strike. Given the description of the length, in inches, the clock was likely marketed for the United Kingdom and Italy as you can see by the above catalog entry.

Overall, a successful servicing and if it “wanders” again, a simple disassembly, reassembly, and re-adjustment at some point in the future should put it right. Let’s hope that is more than two years away this time.

February 27, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #30 – a Forestville clock

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

JS writes;

“I found your blog online. I wasn’t sure if you were able to help. But I’m trying to find some information on a mantle clock I purchased.

It is made by Black Forest Clock Company, which I know is Canadian. Just curious if you recognized the clock and a possible year.

My reply;

“Hi and thanks for your email, Joe. The company was first called the Blackforest Clock Company when formed in 1928 and changed its name to the Forestville Clock Co. In 1941. The same company just a change in the name. It was based in Toronto through its life right up to the late 1970s. If it is a Blackforest clock it was made prior to 1941. Is it a pendulum clock or does it have a floating balance escapement? If you are not sure, send me a photo of the movement.”

Which JS promptly sent:

Just purchased it at an auction. I look forward to picking it up and putting it on the mantle. Be safe and well and thank you again.

My reply:

“Looks like a nice pendulum clock.”

February 23, 2021

The Difference between Antique and Vintage

Clock Terms

Honesty and Disclosure

Establishing a Value

Preparations for Sale

Visual Presentation

Clock Description

Where to Advertize

Example of a Poor Ad

Example of an Eye-catching Ad

Final Remarks

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This was a running clock before I took it apart and my goal is to give it a good cleaning and address wear issues

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The arrangement of the gears should be familiar to anyone working on German clocks made in the first quarter of the twentieth century

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What should have taken minutes stretched to an hour or more

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Chinese-made clocks have a design lifespan of about 20-25 years. They were never intended to be passed down as family heirlooms

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