Would you buy a “Cucuko” clock?

I frequently cruise the online for-sale sites for interesting clocks and I could not help but chuckle at this one.

Would you buy a Cucuko clock?

If you are going to sell a cute Black Forest clock take a little time to find out how to spell the darn word. It is not choochoo or cucko, or CooCoo, or Coockoo, or Cucuko, it’s Cuckoo!

The word is Cuckoo and the Cuckoo is actually a bird found commonly in Europe. That little birdie that comes through the top hatch door the hour and half-hour on so-called clocks is a Cuckoo, plain and simple and they are a real thing.

I don’t know how many times I have seen the word misspelled. How much more would a seller know about the clock if they can’t even spell the name correctly?

The name is not the only thing to snicker at, look at the price.

I got mine for free. I call it Dave’s clock, the name of the previous owner. It is a lot nicer than the one offered for sale and I’d sell it for a whole lot less than $300…… if I sold it!

December 4, 2021

Sawin banjo clock movement servicing – two issues arose later

Weight-driven banjo clocks have simple time-only movements that are very reliable. They can be unadorned like the one I acquired or garish almost to excess like a presentation timepiece. Authenticity can be a challenge since some presentation timepieces started life as simple wooden cases and decorative tablets, finials, sidearms and other items were added later but I love the simplicity of this one.

^{Presentation banjo clock by Foster Campos}

Finding one for $75 is highly unusual but I am convinced the seller had no idea what it was worth. When I picked it up the seller asked me if I was interested in another clock he had for sale, a 30-hour mantel clock. He told me someone valued it at $300. Uh, no, not interested!

This federal-style banjo clock was made in the 1840s. I am reasonably certain it was made by John Sawin of Boston in 1840 or thereabout, by either himself or one of his apprentices or associates. The movement and case construction bares a strong resemblance to a Willard timepiece and there is a good reason for this.

John Sawin apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and makers of the original patent timepiece.

Unfortunately, there are no identifying markings on the movement or the case but there are key indicators, for example, the placement of the movement mounting “ears”, that tell me that this is a Sawin clock.

Everything is original to the clock, weight, hands, movement, pendulum rod and bob. The dial glass was was broken at some point in the clock’s life. It had convex glass and a good many I have seen with wood bezels had flat glass. Brass bezel clocks, on the other hand, generally had convex glass, so, I have decided to replace it with flat glass.

The movement

The gear train is relatively simple and consists of 4 wheels; the main wheel, second wheel, third wheel, and escape wheel. The motion works are on the front plate.

Assessment of the movement

As expected there is wear but consistent with the age of the clock. The movement looks good overall, the gear teeth and pinions are in very good condition but, there are punch marks around the pivot holes. It is never a good feeling to see punch marks around the pivot holes. Punching effectively closes the pivot holes but in a very crude way. This was an old practice and is not considered acceptable today.

Pivots are required for the main wheel front plate, second wheel back-plate, third wheel, and the escape wheel front plate. The verge may require front and back bushings but I will see how things look when the other bushing work is complete. Three are 2mm wide Bergeon bushings, the fourth is 2.5 and the main wheel bushing is larger. I don’t often work with bushings as small as 2mm and it simply means extra care must be taken to cut and ream as accurately as possible.

There was a good amount of movement in the main wheel arbour and installing a bushing was necessary to tighten things up. I have bushings that are 1.5 mm and 3mm thick but the plate is 2mm. A 3mm bushing was installed and using a file I reduced the height to 2 mm. Three other bushings were then installed with no issues.

I have decided to leave the verge bushings as-is for now.

The weight cable had no kinks or broken strands, I cleaned it in the ultrasonic and reused it. For brass cable, I generally knot each end and use solder to secure the knot to prevent it from slipping out of its knot.

Two weeks later and two issues

The weight cable is too short. The clock stops when the weight is several inches from the bottom of the case and it will only run six days instead of the usual eight. Why was the cable shortened? Who knows?

A second issue. The keystone is the piece between the suspension spring and the pendulum leader. It comes very close to hitting the large wheel of the motion works on the left side. Since the suspension spring is quite bent the right side of the keystone rubs against the back of the dial face stopping the clock. A bent spring is a consequence of leaving the pendulum assembly on the movement during transport.

Unfortunately, I cannot source a suspension spring alone and must purchase either the keystone and suspension spring together from an American supplier or the entire spring, leader and stake for about $55.00 from a Canadian supplier. In the meantime the movement runs until I put the dial on.

I am in no hurry for this one and will continue testing it until I come up with a solution for the bent suspension spring.

December 1, 2021

Over 108,000 views so far this year – thank you

Thank you, viewers and subscribers.

It is always a thrill to reach a milestone. Six years ago I attended a WordPress workshop and after the instructor assisted us in setting up a rudimentary site, I thought, I can do this. I can talk about clocks! WordPress 101 certainly made it sound so easy but it wasn’t as easy as I thought as I began my journey.

It has taken time to build a following, more than I ever imagined. It takes planning, commitment, an investment of energy, and, finally, perseverance but at the end of the day, it has been worth it.

I began by following other blogs and making notes on what made them successful and eventually found a natural style that was best for me. Unfortunately, I have seen a lot of blogs come and go in the past six years, bloggers that ran out of ideas, lost interest in their blog, or for whatever reason, life got in the way. And some of those blogs were pretty darned good. But I wasn’t going to let that affect me.

The first two years were frustrating, to say the least, and I don’t know how many times I thought of quitting, but I hung in even though the number of views was, well, disappointing. I knew my content was interesting, certainly to me and I knew there were people out there who had a yearning to read and learn about mechanical clocks, so, I stuck with it. And, I am glad I did.

_{Case repair and restoration work area}

As I have said elsewhere if you regularly use a lathe to cut gear teeth, re-pivot arbours, bush mainspring barrels on a weekly basis, fashion new wheels from raw stock or make advanced repairs on complicated movements and cases, this is probably not the place for you but you are welcome to leave any comments or suggestions or simply read one of my blog articles over a cup of coffee in the morning.

After six years I still consider myself a clock repair generalist though there is no denying that I continue to build my repertoire of clock repair and restoration skill. Judging from my mail I seem to appeal to those who are like-minded. I appreciate those who have stumbled onto my site looking for advice and guidance on a particular clock or clock repair issue.

HAC mantel clock — _{Hamburg American Clock Co (HAC) mantel clock c.1908}

But I especially appreciate comments and suggestions from regular viewers. And, yes, there is fan mail, most of it sent privately and I take great pleasure in responding to each and every query.

As I review articles that have the greatest number of views it seems clear to me that most of my visitors are looking for how-to and general information articles. That suits me just fine.

These have become the most popular.

After six years I have developed an understanding of my audience and have managed to produce blog articles that seem to appeal to a wide range of people with an interest in horology.

Will I continue? Darn right, and as they say, the best is yet to come.

November 27, 2021

Antique or Vintage Clocks: The Perfect Unique Gift Ideas

Ah, the holiday season is upon us, what to buy? Are you are looking for a unique gift for a friend or family member. An antique clock may not be anything you have considered but wouldn’t it make a terrific gift.

_{Mauthe time and strike wall clock} _{from 1895}

If you know a little about antique or vintage clocks or you know nothing at all, you may need some help finding the right clock for that special person. I will give you a few pointers plus an explanation of some of the terms you may come across.

Why buy an antique or vintage clock?

A year ago I sold a clock to a young woman who was looking for a unique gift for her father. She responded to my advertisement by saying that it was exactly the clock she was looking for because it reminded her of the family clock when she was young.

Sentimental reasons, satisfying the need to acquire anything antique, or the uniqueness of an old mechanical clock top the list for reasons to buy an old clock.

What is the difference between antique and vintage?

It is not easy to tell the age of a clock, or, for that matter, anything in an antique store and, ads for clocks seldom tell the year it was produced although it might hint at the period it was made, for example, “mid-century”. A quick trip through the world of Google will give you a general sense of how old something is give or take a few years.

_{Vintage Kienzle wall clock from the 1930s}

An antique is anything over 100 years old and vintage is less than 100 years but more than 30 years old. Anything that is less than 30 years old may be considered vintage but more often called collectible.

Mechanical or something else

This article focuses on mechanical clocks but there are a lot of different types of clocks out there and online auction sites are filled with every type imaginable. It can be confusing to the shopper.

As a general rule quartz clocks have limited value and very few would be considered collectible.

Electro-mechanical clocks have a traditional mechanical movement, which keeps time with an oscillating pendulum or balance wheel powered through a gear train by a mainspring but uses electricity to rewind the mainspring with an electric motor or electromagnet. Something quite different is the electro-magnetic clock, popular in the 1950s. Both types can be highly desirable but leave that to the professional collector who knows specifically what they are looking for.

In the 1930s electric shelf, desk and wall clocks were introduced into homes everywhere. Some have value but most are not worth the trouble.

_{Sessions 3W electric table clock 1927}

They are great timekeepers but are often quite worn, dangerous to work on, and can be difficult to repair. I would not give one as a gift unless you know that it was serviced by a competent professional.

My advice is to stick to an antique or vintage mechanical clock.

One last note; beware of conversions, clocks where the mechanical movement was taken out for whatever reason and replaced by a quartz movement. They are worthless but some people fall for this sinful and deceptive practice.

Type of clock and placement

Space is the biggest consideration.

_{Antique Seth Thomas alarm clock from around 1910}

In the trend towards smaller homes, there is not always space for a clock. Mantel clocks require a shelf or table to put them on.

Simple time-only or time and strike clocks can be quite small but others may have more a complicated Westminster chime movement in a larger case. Alarm and desk clocks occupy the least space.

_{This 1917 Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator is 51 inches long}

Wall clocks are easier to place. Wall clocks come in all shapes and sizes from the diminutive cuckoo clocks to large box clocks and Vienna regulators.

Floor clocks, otherwise called grandfather or grandmother clocks, tall case, long case or hall clocks are the most difficult to place. Unless the person in mind would appreciate one and has sufficient floor space I would not recommend one.

Working or non-working clock?

A working clock that has been recently serviced by a competent clock repairer is the most desirable. However, if the clock will be a decoration or part of the decor and a working clock is unimportant, you might find them less expensive to purchase. Perhaps one with a replacement quartz movement might be okay as long as you know that’s what you are getting.

Clock buying tips

_{1990s Ridgeway grandfather clock} _{takes up space}

Look for a working clock over a non-working one. Chances are it has been better cared-for over its life span.
Facebook Marketplace, eBay, your local online for-sale site (we have kijiji in Nova Scotia), reputable estate auction sites, antique stores and word of mouth are among the best sources.
Most common clocks are priced reasonably. Clock prices have generally fallen over the last 5 years but expect to pay more for rare clocks or those with a special provenance.
Stay away from Chinese made or Korean clocks or most anything that has directional arrows around the winding points. They have very powerful mainsprings and will potentially harm the user if the springs break.
The maker of the clock is largely unimportant. For example, all American clock producers made cheaper and more expensive lines of clocks.
A little research is always helpful before you make the purchase. A little knowledge might be a dangerous thing but knowing nothing is worse.
It may or may not be important to you if the clock has been altered in any way but it is nice to know. For example, many old ogee clocks are attractive but have had a replacement movement installed when the old one failed. In the clock world these are called marriages and it makes a difference to some people.
Try to inspect the clock in person before you buy. Surprises are never nice when you discover something sent to you is not what you expected.

Well, if you are looking for a clock for that special person I hope I have given you something to think about before you put your money down.

I should say that I am not in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to keep my collection manageable.

November 23, 2021

Circa 1845 Chauncey Jerome Ogee Clock

An ogee clock is so-called because it is a 19th century U.S. shelf clock with a distinctive S-curve (convex above and concave below) molding.

30-hour ogee clocks were very popular from the early 1840s to as late as the 1890s, a good run for a distinctive style of clock. Before the days of the Internet, these clocks fetched hundreds of dollars at auctions houses and antique stores. Along came eBay and prospective buyers quickly learned that large numbers of these clocks were produced in their day and the supply of clocks flooded the net and prices dropped accordingly. I have 5 ogee clocks among my collection of over 100 clocks and have never paid more than $60 for any of them.

Of course, there are exceptions to the rule. The distinctive case has housed movements other than the 30-hour time and strike commonly found and some are quite desirable. Fusee, single weight 8-day time-only, calendar models, minis, Gesso fronts, 8-day time and strike clocks, and a few unusual ones have good value.

30-hour clocks are worth collecting and if you a new to clock repair, they are a great clock to begin your journey.

This is a Chauncey Jerome 30-hour or one-day clock from about 1844-1845 and based on my research, the movement is from the same period. So, an excellent chance that the case and movement started life together. The pendulum bob looks very old and hard to say if original as pendulums often go missing during a clock’s life. But I’m not sure a modern pendulum bob would have similar detail.

The dial is in good condition with attractive Gesso spandrels although the Jerome name under the twelve is barely readable and the chapter ring has faded. The moon hands also look original and the clock came with the correct weights. The mahogany veneer, while very dirty is almost flawless.

Not original is the strike bell as the clock would have had a coil gong. The suspension spring and leader are missing. A top wooden block that attaches the movement to the case is also missing and the label, printed by John Benham, though readable, has some losses. The suspension spring and leader can be easily sourced, the block fashioned from old stock and I have a spare Jerome style coiled gong in my parts bin.

The tablet design did not look original at first glance but after removing a piece of cardboard (first photo) and Christmas wrapping paper behind the glass I discovered a frosted tablet with thistles and flowers. The red paint might have been added and it is very possible that it was not painted originally.

The plan is to service the movement, source missing parts, and refresh the case.

I am not a strong believer in maintaining the original patina which one reader opined is just another word for dirt. The case will be cleaned with Murphy’s Soap and a coat of shellac will be applied.

Original materials and techniques will be used when working on the case. This includes the use of traditional shellac (flakes mixed with shellac lacquer), and fasteners like old slot head screws, old wood, and square nails. The replacement coil gong is very similar to other Jeromes I have seen and will come out of a donor ogee case. There are a few stray pieces of label at the bottom of the case that will be glued back in place.

There is not a lot of demand for ogee clocks today as reflected in their asking price. Perhaps the 30-hour ones are considered a hassle for some as they must be wound once per day, nevertheless, I find them very appealing.

Coming soon will be an article on servicing the movement and later on, refreshing the case.

November 19, 2021

My Approach to Clock Restoration

Every clock enthusiast has their own way of doing things and each has a different approach to clock restoration. Am I different? Not really, but I have put some thoughts to paper that you might find interesting.

Like everyone I started out knowing virtually nothing about clock restoration but learned as I went. As I gained confidence and improved my skillset I took on greater challenges.

Not long ago I bought a nice 30-hour non-running Chauncey Jerome ogee. I would not consider this clock a huge challenge but it will help explain my approach to clock restoration.

The case is from the 1840s and based on my research, the movement is from the same period. There are a few things wrong with it and that is expected from a 176-year-old clock.

Four Options

The clock case and movement are very dirty and the clock certainly has some issues but I am happy to report that a lot is original. It is on my bench. Now, what do I do with it?

I have four options:

Do nothing. Leave everything as-is, preserve the patina and display the clock without servicing the movement or cleaning the case.
Service the movement so that it is in running order but do nothing to the case, again preserve the patina.
Clean and refresh the case but leave the movement as-is.
Service the movement and clean the case, making small repairs if necessary.

Option 1. There are very few clocks where I would do absolutely nothing. If the movement is beyond my capability or requires a complex repair and the case requires extensive repairs or any intervention on my part will potentially make it worse, I will leave it alone.

Option 2. Not a good option for me. There is no point in servicing a movement if is going back into a dirty case and risk the movement becoming contaminated with dirt and debris.

Option 3 If the movement is beyond my capability or requires a complex repair I will leave it alone and proceed with cleaning the case.

Option 4. This is my preference. My end goal is minimal invasive intervention which means that I will service a movement and address wear issues where necessary. I will refresh the case if it is grimy and requires a good cleaning. I am not a strong believer in patina which one reader opined is just another word for dirt. As much as possible, I use original materials and techniques when working on the case. This includes the use of hot hide glue, traditional shellac (flakes mixed with shellac lacquer), and fasteners like old slot head screws, and square nails.

In rare cases where I am met with a significant challenge, I will perform a complete restoration with the goal of bringing the clock back to its original condition. I call this extreme restoration.

Here are two examples. Both of these clocks are running daily.

I believe that some amount of intervention is not only necessary but desired by collectors and I also believe that there are situations where a wholesale ground-up restoration is the only option.

In the case of this miniature Vienna Regulator cleaning and oiling the movement, and polishing the brass was the only intervention.

*Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock*

My position regarding changes to a clock

My end goal is a functional clock that presents well. As far as I’m concerned a non-working clock must become a working clock because that is the nature of its existence.

If a clock has important provenance and extensive repairs to the movement and/or case alter it in a negative way and I will leave it alone.

And what does the ogee clock i mentioned in the beginning of this article look like now?

I am sure you will agree that it is not a dramatic change at all but it is now a working clock that presents well.

November 14, 2021

Gilbert mantel clock movement servicing

Let me say that I am not a huge fan of clocks with steel plates. Although most have brass bushing inserts punched into the steel, I am always fearful that there is not enough brass in the insert to prevent cutting into the steel plate and ruining a cutter. But in this case, my worries were unfounded and this clock presented no such headaches.

The movement is stamped 17 which was Gilbert’s way of identifying the year the movement was made, which in this case is 1917. The case design is somewhat reminiscent of clocks made in the early 1920s but Gilbert no doubt made a run of these movements and put them into various clocks some years after the Great War.

It is a time and strike with a passing strike on a bell on the half-hour.

I was not really looking for a mantel clock but I saw it online during the summer of 2021 and I thought it would be a good summer cottage project to keep me busy. I didn’t have the right tools for bushing work so I cleaned the case, replaced a broken hour hand, inspected it for wear, oiled it, and ran it through the summer.

It certainly needed cleaning but a month of running would do no appreciable harm. It was reliable and it kept reasonably good time, or as reasonable as one could expect of American clocks of this period.

It looks like one of those clocks that had a few years of running, was disassembled and cleaned at least once but spent most of its life sitting prettily on a shelf.

There are a number of scratch marks on the movement which tells me that it has been worked on before. No bushing work was done but I see punch marks around the escape wheel bushing rear plate and that’s about it.

*Pivots and lantern pinions are all in great shape*

There is minimal wear; the lantern pinions are in very good shape as are all the pivots. As for bushing work, based on my initial assessment at least 4 bushings are required; second wheel strike-side backplate; third wheel time-side backplate; second, third, and fourth wheel strike-side rear plate. But, the wear is consistent with a clock that has reasonably good care during its life. There was plenty of brass material for the inserts and bushing went easily.

The movement has more than its fair share of helper springs, two in the upper part of the movement for the striking levers and two in the bottom, one for the half-hour strike on a bell and one for the hour strike. Getting all these helper springs to wrap around their respective posts is frustrating but doable although it is probably helpful attaching the lower springs while assembling the movement rather than wrestle with the springs after the movement is put together.

I have worked on a few Gilbert time and strike movements over the years and this one was no different. It is midway through the second 8-day test cycle and running well.

Other than some new bushings and a replacement hour hand, that is all there is to it.

I like this clock. It has simple lines, looks good and I think I will keep it.

November 10, 2021

Restoration work on a 181 year old weight driven banjo clock

There are basically three types of banjo clocks with mechanical movements. Those with lever escapements which are usually in the $75 to $100 range, spring-driven ones that are generally $100 to around $300 and up but weight-driven banjo clocks occupy the upper end of the range and are normally between $300-$500 in fair condition and upwards of thousands for desirable clocks made by Simon Willard or E. Howard.

When my wife discovered this particular clock on Facebook Marketplace for $100 I suggested she make an offer for $75 and the seller immediately accepted. It is always a risk buying or accepting an offer without first examining it but this, I believe, was an excellent prospect and for the price I was willing to take a chance.

It is weight-driven federal style cased banjo clock from the 1840s. I have since learned that the clock was very likely made by John Sawin in 1840 (Boston) by himself or one of his apprentices or associates.

Unfortunately, there are no identifying markings on the movement or the case but there are strong indicators that this is a Sawin clock. John Sawin apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and makers of the original patent timepiece.

Everything is intact except for the dial class which was broken at some point in the clock’s life.

The broken glass is convex which prompts an interesting question. Is the glass a replacement and if so, did these clocks originally come with flat glass?

There is a school of thought among most horologists that simple mahogany cased clocks with wood bezels and an absence of ornamentation that were made in this particular style back in the 1840s had flat glass installed. Presentation timepieces, on the other hand, such as those with gilt accents, sidearms, brass dial bezels, a lower bracket/finial and reverse painted glass tablets had curved glass.

Patent Timepiece 1825 by William Cummens with convex glass

My belief is that this clock originally had flat glass.

So, let’s move on with the various case issues beginning with the missing pieces of veneer.

Veneer

The only section that requires veneer work is the left and right bottom corners on the pendulum. Many repairers attempt to hide the missing veneer with touch-up stain but new veneer is the only way to go.

Although the case is made of mahogany I selected rosewood from my collection of harvested veneer. It has the same thickness (modern veneer is much thinner). Although mahogany has a slightly different tonal characteristic and grain, the match was very close. Since I used hot hide glue, the veneer can be easily lifted with heat at a later date but for now my goal is to disguise the missing veneer.

While I was working on the veneer sections I cleaned the case and applied a light coat of shellac. I am not opposed to applying a finishing coat to preserve and improve a clock’s appearance. The added benefit is that it enhances the grains on the case.

In my view there is no clear right or wrong answer and it should be left up to the restorer (and owner) to decide how the clock’s finish should be addressed.

The throat is in perfect condition.

The dial bezel has a crack at the 11 o’clock position which was addressed with hot hide glue. I forced glue into the crack, closed the gap with a number of elastic bands tied together and left it for 24 hours to dry.

The glass

Removing the old putty was a little more involved than I had planned. A heat gun would have been too much and I did not want to ruin the wood bezel but a 30W soldering iron was perfect for this job. I picked away and removed just enough putty to install the glass. I ordered 6 13/16 inch flat glass and it was a perfect fit. Wet putty is always an option but Plaster of Paris is easier to work with, does an equally fine job and secures the glass in place.

Plaster of Paris dries hard in 30 minutes and is stainable/paintable. I applied the plaster with a putty knife and smoothed it out with a wet finger.

Plaster of Paris is easy to work with and dries hard in 30 minutes

After several hours I applied a dark stain to give the plaster an aged look.

The plaster is stained to give it an aged look

The bezel is now ready to be attached to the case.

The finial

The final was in the pendulum box when I bought the clock. It now requires a new post. The peg was broken and a previous owner attempted to secure the finial with glue and, of course, that failed. The finial would originally have been mounted with a piece of dowel.

Using a piece of 3/8 inch doweling I cut off about 1 1/4 inches. I scraped off as much glue as I could from the bottom of the finial and the plinth and drilled out the old doweling on both the finial and the plinth. Once the dowelling was glued in place it was given a mahogany stain. It fits well and looks great.

Other case repairs

Other case repairs involved closing or filling several holes. For these repairs I used yellow carpenter’s glue for maximum adhesion.

Shavings from old veneer are glued into screw holes for the mounting ears and the case hook to ensure that those screws are secure.

The case repairs are complete and the last step is servicing the movement.

November 6, 2021

Daylight savings time – a scourge on us all

One week before the time change in Canada there were many reports of people waking up late because their phone switched to Eastern time – Quebec and Ontario, so if your phone told you it was 5am, it was really 6am. Bell Canada blamed this on a software glitch but it is a further reminder of how unnecessary the time change is to us all. What a frustrating experience to all those Bell customers who use their phones as an alarm clock.

Albertans were given a chance to decide in October 2021. The question posed to them was:

Do you want Alberta to adopt year-round Daylight Saving Time, which is summer hours, eliminating the need to change our clocks twice a year?

Electors could vote “yes” or “no” on the question.

The Chief Electoral Officer announced the following results for the referendum:

“Yes” – 531,782 votes, representing 49.8% of valid ballots cast
“No” – 536,874 votes, representing 50.2% of valid ballots cast

No change for Albertans! Most affected in Alberta would be those living in the far north. Sunrise could be as late as 10am. But, no matter, they said “no”!

Daylight Savings Time has no place in our modern world. Of 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries observe Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe any form of daylight saving.

Top showing face and crown detail — *Vienna Regulator clock C.1870*

70 countries must live with it.

Clock face showing moon dial — *Ridgeway grandfather clock C.1996*

At 2:00am Sunday, set your clocks ahead one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.

Regions that typically use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time.

In Canada, we have a little aide-memoire, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

Case is in fair condition, dial face has some flaking — *Canada Clock Co. cottage clock C.1883*

How to set your mechanical clock(s)

Stop the clock and wait for the correct time, then, restart.
Move the minute hand slowly clockwise to the correct time, stopping briefly for the quarter-hour on chiming clocks and the half-hour for striking clocks. If you have a movement with a rack and snail you can move the minute hand quickly through the hours.
Do not move the minute hand backward unless the instructions that come with the clock specifically say that it is safe to do so. Otherwise damage to the movement will result.

Time change is a scourge, it is very wasteful and unnecessary in our modern world.

November 6, 2021

Clock testing stands for most purposes.

Girod movement on test stand,TimeTrax beat amplifier attached to movement.

What is ideal is one clock stand for servicing and testing all clock movements but unfortunately, there are so many different types and styles of movements that one size does not fit all.

I have written an article or two on test stands in the past but consolidating all my testing stands into one article might help the reader decide which one would work best for them.

Testing the Kienzle movement on a makeshift test stand

For the first one, I made a makeshift test stand out of scrap wood and what I like about this one is that if I require more holes to mount a movement, I could simply drill them where I need them. But I also like the idea of using it for those mantel clocks and small wall clock movements with seat boards.

This particular one has clamps so, mounting a movement is very easy since each clamp has a center horizontal groove. Once the height has been set, simply screw the clamps into the vertical rod. It takes seconds to mount a movement. The brackets are adjustable to about 10 inches.

*Junghans B11 movement on the test stand*

This test stand, called “Gene’s clock testing stand”, is very versatile. The movement can be mounted as I have done in the photo or bolts can be inserted through clock plates and into the cutouts as in the photo below.

This is the same Gene’s stand as above but made for longer pendulum leaders. The home-made extension measures 18 1/4″ high by 9″ deep by 9 1/4″ wide. The bottom part is adjustable and fully detachable.

Clock stand painted — *Clock stand for tall case movements*

Finally, this is a 48″ stand for hall clocks or grandfather clock movements. It can accommodate two or three movements but I do not work on more than one tall case movement at a time. When used for testing purposes I anchor the stand to a wall to help eliminate sympathetic vibrations.

Clock stand one rail on — *Clock stand rails*

The stand is made of pine while the rails are constructed of yellow oak.

Every horologist should have at least one or more sturdy clock stands for testing clock movements.

Once you begin working on clock movements in earnest you will learn that a testing stand is indispensable and as you repair more movements one type will not be sufficient.

November 2, 2021

Gilbert shelf clock

I am always on the lookout for clocks to add to my collection, and one of the places where bargains can often be found is Facebook Marketplace. While browsing the listings, we came across an intriguing clock from a small village in Quebec. It was my wife who pointed it out, thinking it would make an interesting addition to our collection.

From our summer cottage in Quebec, we made the short trip—about half an hour—to a nearby town to see the clock. We learned it had spent its entire life in this quaint village. Due to the pandemic, we arranged the purchase in an unusual way: the agreed-upon amount was sent to the seller via eTransfer, and they left the clock in a recycling bin outside their home for us to pick up. The entire transaction took place without any in-person contact, making it one of the more unique methods I’ve used to acquire a clock.

The clock was wrapped in a plastic bag with a note attached that said, “Thank you.” As we drove away, I wondered if a clock purchased sight unseen would be what we expected.

It is a very simple clock, but we were pleasantly surprised by its condition—it has clearly had a good life. This clock is an excellent example of a nondescript mantel clock that could be found in thousands of homes across Canada and the USA during the 1920s. Companies like Seth Thomas, Sessions, and others produced similar styles to appeal to those who could not afford the more elaborate, feature-rich upper-range mantel clocks offered by most manufacturers of the time.

The clock had been listed on Facebook Marketplace for $40 but had no takers for over three months. When the price was reduced, we decided to buy it.

It was described as a non-running clock, but the key, pendulum bob, and all parts of the movement were intact. The only flaw is the hour hand—the spade end has been snapped off. While the clock is nothing extraordinary, once cleaned up and put in running order, it should look presentable and run well for years to come.

Normally, I avoid American mantel clocks from the 1920s and ’30s, as I’ve owned several in the past. However, I found myself drawn to this clock, largely because it appeared to be untouched and well-preserved. I expect some wear consistent with its age, but at first glance, it looks promising.

This clock was made by Gilbert, a well-regarded American clock manufacturer with a long history of producing clocks from 1841 to 1957.

The clock features no exotic veneers, appliqués, fancy trim pieces, or finials—just a plain, two-column, square-shaped, tinted mahogany lacquer hardwood case measuring 10 inches high, 5 ½ inches deep, and 10 ½ inches wide at the base. The enameled 5-inch dial with spade hands displays Arabic numerals. At the top of the dial, within the number 12, is a regulating arbor for adjusting the clock’s speed.

There is no identifying stamp on the rear plate, and the seller was unaware of the maker. However, once the movement was removed from the case, the markings became visible. The front plate bears the Gilbert trademark—a capital “G” within a diamond—along with “Wm Gilbert Clock Co., Winsted, Conn.” stamped on the right. At the lower center is the number 17, indicating the year (1917) when the movement was designed. The movement features steel plates with brass bushing inserts, which is not surprising given the brass shortages during the First World War (1914–1918), prompting manufacturers to use steel for clock plates.

The case has an austere 1920s look. The movement date of 1917 suggests Gilbert might have used the same movement for a number of years following the war. The entire case, especially the molded base is free of gouges, dents, and other calamities associated with the rough handling and careless storage of old clocks. The case was cleaned with Murphy’s soap revealing a beautiful mahogany finish underneath layers of dirt.

If the movement is complete, I can usually get the clock running within a few minutes with a few adjustments here and there. However, despite oiling the movement, checking the gap in the crutch loop, releasing the tension on the mainsprings, and adjusting the beat, the clock would stop after just a few seconds. It wasn’t until I removed the suspension spring that I discovered a kink, which was enough to prevent the clock from running. The suspension spring will be replaced during servicing, but after I smoothed out the kink, the clock began to run. The strike side required no adjustments and works well.

While oiling and basic adjustments like these are no substitute for proper cleaning, they help me identify the issues I’m dealing with. Minor wear will be addressed by installing a few bushings. For now, the clock is running as well as can be expected.

Judging from cobwebs within and around the movement, a couple of dead houseflies plus dirt and grime on the movement itself, I doubt this clock has been running for many years though it likely gave years of reliable service before it stopped.

The previous owner says the clock has been in the family for a long time. It had been his grandmother’s clock passed on to his mother. It was dusted and cared for but, “she got tired of dusting it”, he said and it ended up stored in a barn for the last number of years.

I don’t mind dusting it!

October 25, 2021

New Haven hall clock – Restoring the case

I found the clock on an online for sale site in the spring of 2021 and contacted the seller the same day. When I saw the sellers photos my first thought was that it was pretty reasonably priced for a hall clock, known by many as a grandfather clock. I decided to take a chance, arranged a meeting with the seller and arrived to pick up the clock.

During our brief discussion I learned that the clock is inexpensive for a good reason – it is not quite what I thought it was.

Missing are the door handles, otherwise it is complete. It has a mechanical movement with a pendulum but what I was not expecting was a spring-driven movement. Almost all hall clocks are weight-driven.

Is it a conversion? Was the old movement worn out and a new movement installed in its place. I don’t think so. There was never a seat board in the case as seat boards are almost always present on a clock driven by weights. So it seems that from day one this was never intended to be a weight-driven clock.

The case was likely made by someone other than The New Haven Clock Company and the dial, hands, pendulum rod and bob, weight chains, weights, acorn chain pull knobs and the wood dial face were purchased together as a package from New Haven and installed in the case.

*Fakes weight chains below the movement*

Okay, that’s different!

Cleaning or stripping?

The decision to clean or strip is made easy by a good cleaning. After a good cleaning it is better to assess whether or not it requires stripping. What was revealed was a very nice red oak case.

In the photo above the base, which was the last section to be cleaned, is almost black.

What is truly remarkable is the weight of the case and no wonder, the base sides are two inches thick. The top and base can be removed but the middle section alone cannot be lilted by one person, it is that heavy!

I left the cleaning aside to work on the hands and brass (fake) weights.

The brass hands might looks flimsy but they are surprisingly heavy. Brasso was used on all brass pieces except the dial numbers. They appeared to have been lacquered either from the factory or sometime later.

A very light coat of red oak stain accentuated the grain. I considered shellac for the final finish but opted for Wipe-on Poly, an amber tinted polyurethane.

Yes, there are flaws, nicks and scratches that are consistent with age but given that it is over 100 years old some of the flaws add character. The fake weights went back into the clock to complete the look of a weight-driven clock.

I like it!

October 21, 2021

Yard sale find – a 181-year-old weight driven banjo clock for less than you think

Yes, a weight-driven banjo clock for a surprisingly low price!

There are essentially three types of mechanical banjo clocks. Those with lever escapements are usually in the $75 to $100 range, spring driven ones are $100 to around $200 and up but weight-driven banjo clocks occupy the higher end of the range and normally cost between $300-$500 in fair condition to upwards of thousands for Simon Willard or E. Howard clocks.

My wife discovered this particular clock on Facebook Marketplace for $100. I suggested she offer the seller $75 and the seller immediately accepted. I think they just wanted to get rid of it. However, it is always a risk buying a clock sight unseen but this looked like an excellent prospect and for $75, why not take a chance!

From the photos provided it is a weight-driven federal style mahogany-cased banjo clock from the 1800s. The movement is intact because the seller sent a video showing the pendulum bob moving from side to side.

Looks like the original dial and original hands

It has a top acorn finial which appears to be original to the clock. I thought it was missing the carved reverse scrolled side arms and the bottom base piece but not all of these clocks had bottoms or side arms.

The original banjo styled steel hands and the painted face appear to be in good condition. The broken glass bezel can be easily replaced. The case is dirty and requires a small amount of veneer work. I also see the winding crank in the bottom of the case.

I picked it up in late June 2021.

The day of the pickup

We arrived at the garage sale and met the sellers. My wife was curious as to the provenance of the clock and we were told that it had been in the family for more than 60 years having spent most of its life in Wolfville, Nova Scotia.

The clock was heavy which meant the weight was inside the case. Had the weight been missing, sourcing one would have been a problem but it is best to have the original weight.

We had few errands to run in the city and did not return home till late in the evening. Minutes after coming through the door I had the clock on the kitchen table and a screwdriver in hand taking it apart.

A Boston made banjo clock

After studying it further and comparing the clock to others online and through my inquires with members of a clock forum site I learned that the clock was very likely made in 1840 in Boston by John Sawin who apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and inventors of the original patent timepiece.

Later, I will profile the clock with detailed images of the movement, dial face and aspects of the case and more information on clockmaker John Sawin.

Is this the find of the year? I certainly believe so!

October 17, 2021

Tick Talk Tuesday #36 – a tall case clock is transformed

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
Author

In the spring (2021) I found a tall case clock on an online for sale site at what seemed to be a bargain price. It is not what it appears to be. Although you can clearly see weights on the inside of the clock case it is not a weight-driven clock but a spring driven clock with fake weights.

I bought it anyway.

The New Haven movement was serviced and the case was cleaned almost down to the bare wood. It looks terrific and keeps good time. I don’t normally send photos back to the seller on a clock that I have rejuvenated but I thought, what the heck, the seller might be pleased that it went to a good home.

My email to TC:

“No need to reply but I just thought I’d send along a photo of the clock you sold me. The clock runs perfectly, everything has been polished, the movement taken apart and serviced and the case refinished.”

TCs reply;

“Wow…. Looks really good. Hard to believe it’s the same clock. Glad you got the clock all fixed up.”

Sometimes the time and effort is worth it.

October 12, 2021

Maritime Association of Watch and Clock Collectors

On November 2-3, 2019 the Maritime Association of Watch and Clock Collectors held its first meeting. Members came together from various parts of the Maritimes to meet in Prince Edward Island (Canada) to form a club of like-minded individuals.

A educational component of the meeting, a lesson in bushing

Unfortunately the pandemic scuttled all plans for a subsequent meeting but the climate is right for another face-to-face meeting shortly. In the meantime the group has stayed connected through email.

The goal of this group is to gather individuals of every skill level from across the Maritime provinces (PEI, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia) to share experiences, mentor each other, learn new techniques, provide opportunities to acquire clocks/watches and foster social interaction.

We chose the name MAWCC, the Maritime Association of Watch and Clock collectors. We agreed to no less than 2 meetings per year but that sub-groups would meet more frequently.

At this point in time we are not affiliated with the NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) an American-based clock and watch group.

Demonstration of the cleaning of a mainspring

If you are from the Maritime region of Canada (Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia) and you have a keen interest in advancing your skills in horology or just beginning your journey into clock and watch repair and would like to connect with like-minded individuals, contact Wendell Feener at wcfeener@eastlink.ca

October 9, 2021

New Haven movement servicing

This movement came out of an unknown tall case clock that I am certain did not come out of New Haven’s factory. The case appears to have been made by an unknown case builder and I believe the movement, coil gong, dial face, and pendulum were all sourced from the New Haven Clock Company as a package, a kit, if you will.

The movement is a spring-driven count wheel time and strike commonly found in clocks for export. The chains are there for show. From the outside the clock may look like a weight-driven grandfather clock but it is clearly a fake!

Disassembly and assessment of work to be done

The movement is held together with five pins. The number 27 is stamped on the movement. Other makers stamped their movement with dates of manufacture but I don’t think that’s the case here. It appears to be the length of the pendulum in inches. A 27 inch pendulum corresponds to 4350 beats per hour or 72.5 beats per minute (BPM). Ordinarily, weight driven tall case clocks are 60 beats per minute, so this movement looks good running in the case and will fool the average person.

It has 9 extra holes on the front plate, obviously designed for a number of configurations. For example, there is an unused pivot hole to the right of the fan which would have accommodated a fan with a different sized 4th wheel, presumably for another style of clock case.

With the top plate removed the gears and levers are exposed. I found three anomalies.

One, there is an additional piece soldered onto the escape wheel bridge. Since there are no new bushings anywhere on the movement I can only assume that the bridge piece is the fix for a worn pivot hole.
The fly. I should have taken a photo. Two pieces of brass were jammed into the arbour which I assume was meant to tighten it. Flies are meant to be a little loose because they act as an air brake to help arrest the strike strain at the end of its cycle.
The third is the mainsprings. Try as I might I could not remove them from their arbours. I did not want to force them so, left them as-is. I immersed the gear plus mainspring together in the ultrasonic cleaner (not ideal) and used a hot air blow dryer to ensure the parts were dry.

Other than the above issues, there is not a lot of wear on this movement. The pivots are in great shape, with no wear evident on any of the wheel teeth, and the only pivot hole that must be addressed is the escape wheel bridge, the one that was “repaired”.

All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic, dried and the pivots were polished. The movement was reassembled to check for general wear.

There is some pivot hole wear on the lower parts of the trains which, to me, is acceptable since all the gears mesh nicely. Since I am keeping the clock I am not concerned at this point. I plan on inspecting the movement every 2-3 years to determine if any bushing work might be required. So, I am content with a little wear.

Pivot work

One bushing was installed on the escape wheel bridge. I chose a 1.50 mm ID Bergeon bushing, 2.00 mm high with an OD of 3.5 mm. Since the pivot is 1.54 mm in diameter, the hole had to be reamed out with a cutting broach followed by a smoothing broach. While I drilled from the top (see below) I punched the bushing in from the bottom.

While polishing the pivots I discovered a bent arbour, the second wheel, which is also the strike wheel. Prior to servicing I checked out the movement on a test stand and noticed that the strike train would run for a period and stop. No doubt the bent second wheel arbour was the culprit.

The strike side mainspring is a replacement and a mainspring break likely caused damage to the second wheel. A broken mainspring does not always cause a problem but when they break a considerable amount of energy is released. As a general rule, if you are working on a movement with newer mainsprings check for damage up the train.

It is odd that the bent arbour was not caught when the mainspring was replaced. It is not hard to see the bend when spun on a lathe. It is always a risk straightening an arbour but since it is soft steel the chances of a positive result are very good. A staking tool was used to straighten it.

Using a staking tool to straighten and arbour

Assembly and testing

The movement was reassembled. I positioned the third wheel locking pin in the 12 o’clock position on the strike side to ensure the strike side would go into warning. I then synchronized the count and drop levers and managed to get it right the first time.

Since this is a large movement with a long pendulum, a grandfather clock stand is ideal for testing.

The movement has been running a week as of this writing and striking as it should. I will continue to run it for at least two more 8-day cycles before returning it to its case.

Next is refreshing the case. It is very dirty with over 100 years of grime. I am curious to see what lies underneath multiple coatings of dirt.

October 1, 2021

Maintaining a hobby after the pandemic

The pandemic was certainly devastating and no doubt changed everyone and everything. Nothing will ever be quite the same.

As Dickens would say, it was the best of times and it was the worst of times. There are no hidden positives in a pandemic but if anything, this past year has given many of us the gift of reflection. It has also given us a chance to slow down and appreciate what is important in life. Part of that slowing down process has allowed us to pursue interests and hobbies that we not have otherwise had time for. Fortunately, my hobby was long established before the pandemic and it helped me get though some tough days.

Once the pandemic is over, what happens to that newfound hobby? Hmm!

Let’s say your new hobby is clock collecting and repair old clocks but i could be just about anything. How do you maintain your new hobby beyond the pandemic.

Everybody loves lists so here we go!

Connect with like-minded people: In this age of social media, it is easier now than ever before. There are newsgroups, forums, and discussion groups for just about anything. I spend time on the NAWCC.org newsgroup where I find solutions to the challenges of clock repair. Input any hobby and you will find discussion groups aplenty and who knows, future friends. I connect with like-minded folks on Facebook.

YouTube is your friend: There are literally millions of videos and if you select the right terms you can find information that might offer solutions to your hobby problem. There is a lot of good advice but not everyone is an expert. I subscribe to several reputable YouTube channels in clock repair and I find their advice helpful. But it is a truly a jungle out there.

Research your hobby: Your local library is an excellent resource. The staff will help you narrow your search for information. For those staying at home, there are some very good websites that are run by well-respected professionals in their field. Blogs and Youtube are other good sources for information. The NAWCC has a subscription-based online research site that I find excellent.

Start simple and progress slowly: if you have tackled something more that you are capable of in the beginning you will become easily discouraged. When I was starting out in clock repair I began disassembling and servicing time-only and 30-hour movements before progressing to more complicated clocks. Start simple, gain confidence, hone your skillset and work up to more difficult challenges.

Screw drivers, clock tools — Screwdrivers, an example of basic clock tools

Combine your hobby with other interests: My wife and I love to travel. Admittedly it has been difficult in the past year but small staycations have sustained us. We buy clocks online and travel to different parts of the province to pick them up.

My other interest is photography. Repairing clocks and photography go hand in hand. I take pictures at every step of the way when servicing my clocks.

Using depth of field to isolate the foreground image

Invest in the right tools at the right time: Invest in the right tools at each stage of your hobby; start with the most basic tools that you can find at a hardware or craft store. Spread your costs over time buying things as you need them.

Strategic purchasing means buying that expensive tool when you are absolutely sure you need it and have made a strong commitment to your hobby. For example, in clock repair, there are three essential tools that can be rather pricey. Over the course of four years, I bought a mainspring winder ($450), a bushing machine ($1550), and a mini lathe ($800). You can live without any of these tools and I know many clock repairers who manipulate mainsprings without a spring winder, who bush by hand, and who use a portable drill or drill press for clock repair. Buying used is an option but whatever the case, buy according to your means.

Don’t be discouraged if things don’t go exactly as planned; A lot of us have high expectations when starting anything new. We have to realize that in any hobby there are hills and valleys, times when things are going well, and times when there are obstacles that seem impossible to overcome. For some hobbies, there is a steep learning curve.

Stick with it, Perseverance is the key. In time mountains become molehills.

Move out of your comfort zone; I work on many simpler one and two train clock movements but seldom work on 3 train movements which are much more complicated. However, I will buy the odd one to help me build confidence and broaden my skillset.

Despite my best efforts the strike side on this parlour clock refuses to run

Keep records: Records can be in most any form from handwritten notes to photographs, to an Excel spreadsheet (see below) or a written account of your successes and experiences such as a blog or website.

Keeping records reminds you of your successes when you are at a low point in your hobby and provides motivation to tackle new challenges.

Well, I hope that provides some ideas for maintaining your new hobby. A hobby can be a transitory thing or life-long pursuit but in tough times it is the one thing that sustains many of us.

September 27, 2021

Kienzle time and strike movement servicing

I have just one other Kienzle clock in my collection and it is a rather unusual one, the World Time desk clock from the 1940s. I do not come across Kienzle clocks very often. They are no lessor quality than most German clocks, I just don’t see many around this region.

The latest is a German styled round top box clock. It was a an auction buy. I knew it was German at the time but did not know the maker. After a little research I discovered that it is made by Kienzle Uhren.

Kienzle Uhren GmbH is a well-respected German clock company that has a long history.

The company was founded in Schwenningen in southern Germany, in the Black Forest, by Johannes Schlenker, in 1822. In 1883, Jakob Kienzle became part of the family by marriage, and took control of the company, becoming its sole owner in 1897.

Jacob revolutionized production by mass-producing individual components and then assembling them. This modern manufacturing approach led to a massive expansion, and by 1939, Kienzle had over 3,500 employees and was making about 5 million wall-clocks and table clocks per year.

The company continued on through the years, changing hands a few times and gradually shifted production to wristwatches. It continues in business to this day as a watch maker.

The movement

In many respects it is a typical well-engineered German movement from the 1930s. The movement is compact in design and anyone who has worked on German movements will feel right at home. It has a 43 cm pendulum length and runs at 104 beats per minute as per the stamping on the back plate.

Kienzle movement, back showing pendulum leader and strike hammers

Front plate showing rack and snail mechanism

Unfortunately, the spring barrels cannot be removed separately, the movement must be completely taken apart to replace the mainsprings if they break.

The 4 hammer strike assembly can be taken apart separately. One advantage is that once the plates are back together the strike paddle can be easily positioned on the star wheel. The strike has a repeater function which is handy.

With top plate off and showing the placement of the wheels

All parts are hand-cleaned before putting them in the ultrasonic cleaner. Taking excess oil and grime off the movement prior to cleaning ensures a longer life for the cleaning solution. When the solution gets dirty enough I discard it.

The movement has a combination of leaf and lantern pinions, leaf pinions on the second wheels and lantern pinions up both trains. I expect the ultrasonic will do a great job cleaning the lantern pinions.

Taking the mainsprings out of their barrels

The mainsprings must be taken out to be cleaned and the barrels cleaned in the ultrasonic. The springs are quite powerful and mainspring troubles account for many problems with German clocks.

When the mainspring breaks movement damage can result. Teeth are torn form the barrel and the first leaf/lantern pinion is destroyed or the second arbor is bent. I have had movements go both ways from severe damage to simply a broken mainspring (which is easily replaced).

Cleaning of springs and barrels is therefore essential not only to ensure they are free from old oil and dirt but to inspect them for cracks, breaks, and tears. These mainsprings appear to be in very good condition.

I typically preheat the Polychem Deox 007 solution and run parts for 20 to 30 minutes in the ultrasonic, switching off the heat midway through the cycle. I dry all the parts by hand and for the lantern pinions and some parts that seem to hide water, I use a hairdryer to ensure that everything is free of any potential rust build-up.

The mainsprings, which are cleaned of old oil are done separately in the ultrasonic cleaner.

All parts except mainsprings are placed in the ultrasonic cleaner

The next step is putting the re-oiled mainsprings back into their barrels and for that a spring winder is a must. Polishing the pivots come after that.

Olie Baker spring winder. Cleaning the strike side mainspring

Bushing work

This movement might have been cleaned at one point in its life based on pivot scratches on the inside of the plates and worn screws on the back cock but it has never been bushed. When I tested the wheels in the movement I found the time side ran relatively freely while the strike side seemed stiff and sluggish. So, the movement is worn but the wear would be no more than typical for its age.

Following my first assessment I have determined that the movement requires as many as 10 bushings, 6 on the backplate and 4 on the front or, 5 on the strike side, and 5 on the time side. As expected there is more wear lower in the trains.

On the front plate are:

The second wheel time side, third and fourth wheel on the time side and the verge.

On the rear plate are:

Second wheel on the time side, second and third wheel on the strike side, third and fourth wheel on the strike side and the verge.

I always like to start with the most difficult, the pivot hole on the back cock which supports the suspension spring, crutch and pendulum.

In total 12 bushings were required, including the escape wheel. The escape wheel was pretty sloppy both front and back, and better to do those while the movement is apart. 12 is probably the most I have installed in a German clock in quite a long time.

Reassembly and testing

I generally perform a power test prior to the final assembly of the verge, rack and snail, and all outside pieces. It is a good check against my bushing work and if anything is tight or stiff I can address it without taking everything apart. Everything looked good at that point.

Both trains are moving and being tested before the other parts go on

However, with verge installed, pendulum leader, crutch and pendulum, the movement consistently stopped after a few minutes. I took it apart and discovered that the 4th wheel on the time side was moving stiffly. As that wheel had a new bushing installed all it took was reaming out the pivot hole to free it up. Now the movement is running well.

Onward to the strike side and attaching the levers, snail and rack. The levers, rack and snail and gears are attached and finally the strike hammers are installed. The strike hammer posts must be bolted in from the inside of the back plate, something to remember when reassembling the movement.

When I got the clock only one strike hammer functioned but with all hammers repositioned all 4 strike hammers are doing their job and producing a melodic bim-bam strike.

The case does not require much attention other than a cleaning with soap and water.

There is absolutely nothing on the movement, gong block or case that tells me who the maker is though I now know it is definitely a Kienzle.

September 22, 2021

Pequegnat clock purchase may not happen and that’s too bad

I am writing this post during what we all hope are the final stages of the pandemic. As of this writing there are many rules in place because of the large number of active cases. One rule is that we are not permitted to leave our municipal areas (May 2021).

As a clock collector it makes it very difficult to acquire clocks especially if the clock that one wishes to purchase is outside ones permissible locale.

For example, I was looking at an Arthur Pequegnat “maple leaf” kitchen clock that was offered for sale on Facebook Marketplace in Bathurst, New Brunswick. Bathurst is about 4 hours drive from my home and in another province which simply means that I cannot pick it up from the prospective seller nor can the seller deliver it to me at this particular time.

I communicated with the seller and I agreed that the price was reasonable. She indicated to me that if she cannot sell it locally she will put it aside for me and when she travels to Nova Scotia, we can connect.

As a Pequegnat collector this clock would be a nice addition to the three other kitchen clocks in my collection.

In early May I floated the idea that it could be shipped to me and I would pay the costs. She replied that she had “googled” it and found the process too complicated and risky. I did not argue with her.

As we are driving through New Brunswick in late June I suggested we could meet at a neutral location near where she lives.

June contact

I contacted the seller this week Late (June) and suggested a rendezvous to make the deal. “I have to speak to my husband” said the seller.

In a modern relationship where each has equal decision-making power, clearing a purchase with the husband is, well, very archaic.

Three other Pequegnat kitchen clocks in my collection are the Canuck and two in the Maple Leaf series, the “pointed top” and the “fan top”

Arthur Pequegnat kichen clock — Arthur Pequegnat fan top kitchen clock

I suggested that we meet along the Trans Canada Highway (TCH) in New Brunswick and the seller replied that she was close to the highway. Well, she thought the TCH ran through Bathurst which is 2 1/2 hours away from the TCH. So, that will not happen. Too bad!

I like the clock and it would be a very nice addition to my collection but I will look elsewhere.

August 29, 2021

Pursuing a clock on an online auction

I have a growing collection of clocks with upwards of 85 in my collection. My focus is on clocks made in Canada that are entirely manufactured in this country or companies such as Fleet and Forestville, that assembled clocks with foreign/domestic cases and movements. In addition, I have many other clocks that were made in France, Briton, Germany, Austria and so on.

In terms of style, my particular interest is wall clocks. Within my collection, I have 21 wall clocks, the oldest around 1870, and the newest is from the 1930s.

I would like to add one more to my collection but it is sitting in an auction house awaiting my bid. This post will describe my experience bidding on a clock at an online auction. Did I win the clock? Read on and the answer will be revealed at the end of the post.

During pandemic times it is probably safer purchasing a clock online. There remains a risk however. Unknowns are the condition of the case, who the maker is, the state of the movement and what time and money it will take to service it. At this point I only have photos to go on. This is an estate auction and the auction house is located 1 1/2 hours drive from my home.

The clock appears to be a vintage oak-cased German time and strike from about the 1930s. I am guessing Mauthe as the maker since there is no indication from the auction information as to who made the clock. Many German makes have the company name or logo on the dial face; there is nothing on this one. Nevertheless, It looks like a good prospect and I will chance it.

Box clocks were all the fashion in the 1920s and 1930s but those with round tops were less common. Many German tall case or hall clocks of that era had round tops so it is unusual to see a round top on a wall clock. Nevertheless, it is a very attractive clock with simple lines in the Art Deco style.

The three tall panes of beveled glass look good. There appears to be a scratch or a crack on the right hand section of the door about halfway up, but nothing is showing on the inside of the door in that area.

There are no pictures of the movement but one can see the movement seat board thumb screws and the winding arbours in the next shot. The rod gong is visible behind the pendulum rod and it looks like a rod lock at the midway point.

The item description does not say it is running and it does not come with a key. The pendulum is crooked on the auction photo which might mean the connecting hook is broken or it is hooked incorrectly.

This is an online auction called a “Lockdown Live Auction” that, as of this writing, closes in one day.

I have a good feeling about winning this item for four reasons.

One, it is the only clock offered which means that clock collectors will not be drawn to this auction,
There is no reserve bid, the opening bid is $5.00 A reserve is off-putting because auction houses that seldom have clocks for offer, price them higher than they are worth,
There has been no pre-bidding yet and,
It is offered without a key which means that it may or may not be running and might or might not need adjustment or repair. The casual collector might avoid this one.

The auction house allows all bidders to set up a “watch list” and I will be monitoring the bids on this item until the item hits the “auction floor” tomorrow.

A Google search reveals that this style of clock is uncommon but I found one that sold at auction for $100. It was described as an unknown German wall clock.

What would I bid? I am going no higher than $75 but winning it for less would be nice. The final price includes a buyers premium of 15%, 15% sales tax and shipping.

The next day

At 10:30 AM there have been a couple of pre-bids and the clock is now at $12.50. I held off bidding until 8 minutes before it came up for sale at 8:00 PM. At the 8 minute-to point the bidding was $22.50. I placed a “high bid” of $60 which means paying only a small amount more than the next highest bid. Not wanting to get caught up in last second bidding, I walked away from the computer. I was prepared to let it go if I lost the bid.

I returned later to discover that I had won the item for $52.50. With buyers premium, tax, and delivery the final cost is $73.43.

Who is the maker?

The clock arrived. There is no trademark name on the dial face, and nothing on the outside of the case to identify the maker.

The movement sits on a seat board, typical of most German clocks. I released two thumbscrews at the bottom of the seat board and slid the movement out for further inspection. There is no maker’s mark on either the movement or the iron block of the 4-rod gong.

These two shots are the front and back of the rack and snail time and strike movement.

There are two numbers on the bottom right of the rear plate, 43 (length of pendulum rod) and 104, (beats per minute). Using those two numbers and the search terms “German”, “wall clock” and “round top” I conducted a search on the internet and found a matching clock. I compared the design of the plates on mine with the clock I found and it is a Kienzle from the early 1930s or late 1920s.

Who is Kienzle?

Kienzle is a well-respected German clock company that has a long history.

He revolutionized production by mass-producing individual components and then assembling them. This modern manufacturing approach led to a massive expansion, and by 1939, Kienzle had over 3,500 employees and was making about 5 million wall-clocks and table clocks per year.

The company continued on through the years, changing hands a couple of times and gradually shifted production to wristwatches. It still exits today.

The most distinctive feature of this clock is the 4-rod bim-bam strike. Probably the nicest sound of any striking clock that I have.

I wound both sides and it runs well but the movement is dirty and requires a servicing. Stay tuned for that.

August 24, 2021

Chauncey Jerome 30-hour ogee has stopped – the trouble with trundles

My Chauncey Jerome 30-hour Ogee weight driven time and strike clock has stopped for no obvious reason. Let’s see if we can get it going again.

Chauncey Jerome 30 hoir Ogee clock — Chauncey Jerome 30-hour Ogee clock

But first, no-one can deny that Chauncey Jerome had made a historic contribution to the American clock industry in the 18th century when he substituted brass works for wooden works and was said to be “the greatest and most far-reaching contributor to the clock industry.” Although he made a fortune selling his clocks, and his business grew quickly his company ultimately failed in 1856.

After researching Mike Baileys excellent site on Jerome clocks I was able to determine that my clock is a number 11 Ogee made just before the Jerome bankruptcy, 1855. The patent 30-hour brass movement is the number 1.314 which is likely in its original case.

C Jerome 30 hour movement testingin the case — C Jerome 30 hour movement testing in the case

The only time I serviced the movement was in February 2018. It was dirty as expected and it appeared that no work had been done for quite some time. It was well worn. At that time 8 bushings were installed, 4 in the front and 4 on the backplate. Most of the wear was on the strike side and lower in the trains.

C Jerome movement right out of the case in 2018

It ran very well for 3 years and now (May 2021) it has stopped.

Preliminary checks

I performed the usual checks prior to taking the movement out of its case. I inspected the time-side cable for kinks and that it was not binding. A binding cable will definitely stop a clock. It was fine.

I checked the crutch loop clearance and found nothing seriously amiss. It should have run. It did not.

While it was running I noticed that it was drifting in an out of beat and it ran no longer than a minute or so before stopping. This indicates a number of issues; a bent escape wheel teeth, damage/wear to its lantern pinion, a bent escape wheel arbour or an enlarged pivot hole. I suspect the last one is the culprit.

The strike side is fine and it is functioning as it should, but without the time side running correctly the clock is just an ornament.

Next, taking it out of the case

I checked it over and determined that the movement required two new bushings, one for the escape wheel bridge and the other for the hour wheel in the motion works. I did not have a multi-level bridge tool when I serviced this clock the first time three years ago so, it came in very handy. The hour wheel pivot hole looked fine then but now there is enough wear that it justifies being done. I checked the escape wheel arbour and it was straight.

With those two wear issues addressed I put the movement back together for testing and assumed that the clock would run. Unfortunately the clock stopped after less than a minute. Something else was amiss.

The trouble with trundles

I adjusted the beat but still nothing. I noted where the second wheel, time side, was stopping as it would stop about every eighth of a turn. Since the second wheel gear teeth are in excellent condition, it could only be one thing, worn trundles in the escape wheel lantern pinion that prevent the second wheel from meshing correctly with escape wheel.

As you can see in the above photo the trundles are in terrible condition and there is little doubt that this is what stopped the clock. Wear such as this cannot be ignored. Without a repair the clock will not run.

Trundles are often replaced by drilling out the shroud end where the trundles are inserted, taking the worn trundles out, replacing them with new ones made from pivot wire and staking the holes to ensure they stay in place. On this escape wheel the cap must be removed to access the trundles. This is common on ogee movements such as this and it means a different approach for the repair.

I secured my crow’s foot to my bench vice, inserted the top cap of the lantern pinion into the V part of the foot and gently tapped on the pivot end to release the cap. It released easily. The trundles should have literally fallen out but two of the 6 were firmly in place and had to be cut and drilled out. Not fun.

I have a good assortment of pivot wire, selected a .95mm wire for the trundles and cut each one to length with a Dremel cutting disk.

I used a hollow staking tool to push the cap back in place and the trundles into their respective holes but the cap was loose. This is when Loctite is your best friend. Using a toothpick I dabbed a small amount onto each end of the trundles, secured the trundles in place and waited 24 hours for the Loctite to cure.

The next day for testing purposes I left out the strike side levers and wheels.

On the test stand the movement ran a couple of 30-hour cycles and the issue has now been addressed. The remaining gears and levers were assembled into the movement and the movement was placed into the case for a final test of both the time and strike side.

It should run reliably for years to come.

From time to time a repairer will have to deal with worn trundles.

If a clock stops and there is a gear meshing issue, then it is time to replace the trundles but if they are a little worn and the clock runs well, I tend to leave them as-is knowing that at some future date if the clock stops it is one of many issues I will address.

I have mentioned this before but if you are just beginning your journey into clock repair, the 30-hour ogee, because of the large gears, the overall simplicity and the absence of mainsprings make this a great place to start.

August 20, 2021

Fleet Time mantel clock – Mainspring damage

The Fleet Time Co. was a short-lived Canadian clock company that operated between the years 1936 and 1940 producing a range of two and three-train mantel clocks with movements sourced from Germany. All clocks had pendulums and were spring-driven. According to the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario, the company was listed as an importer of clocks and watches. The locations were 440 McGill and then 303 St. Paul West, Montreal (Canada).

The Second World War took a heavy toll on this company as the source of movements dried up and so the future prospects of this small company. Why they did not source movements from France and Germany like the Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto and others during the war years and beyond is anyone’s guess. Perhaps the margins were slim or alternate suppliers could not be found. That and the increasingly popular electric clock doomed the company.

Wood cases were made in Canada for some models while other cabinets were imported from Germany.

Of the two Fleet clocks in my collection one is this two-train clock with an unknown German movement and the other a Westminster chime mantel clock with a German Gufa movement. For more on the Gufa clock go here.

This clock is in much the same condition as my first Fleet clock, dents, gouges and scratches everywhere. Unfortunately, the tinted lacquer finishes on these old clocks do not survive well over time. It is one reason they attract little attention and sell for almost nothing despite having movements that are relatively strong runners.

Fleet Time clock — Fleet Time time and strike mantel clock, broken glass

It is a plain, generic mantel clock with a walnut finish, flat front, a slightly domed top, and step-side features on outboard feet. The dial is heavily tarnished and the glass bezel that should be soldered to the chapter ring has detached. These bezels often go missing. At least it came with the clock.

The clock strikes on 3-rods producing a bim-bam sound, just loud enough so as not to be too intrusive.

The location of the star striking wheel on the movement is somewhat unusual. Commonly found between the plates, the star wheel is on the outside of the rear plate.

Fleet time barrel — Damaged Fleet Time barrel

As I have said in a previous article the barrel and second wheel on the time side were damaged during servicing. I don’t know who the maker is and I would appreciate any information to aid me in my search for a donor movement. The case has been reconditioned, with the addition of a dial and bezel from an old Blackforest Clock Co. clock.

Fleet Time case ready for repaired or replaced movement

It is a nice piece of Canadian horological history that I would like to see running.

August 11, 2021

Waterbury Wren shelf clock – case refresh

I originally assumed this clock was a Seth Thomas since it had a Seth Thomas movement. After a thorough search on the web, I concluded that this was not a Seth Thomas case. I searched for clocks made by other clockmakers, starting with E.N Welch, Ansonia (because it is similar in style to the Syria), Gilbert, Sessions and finally Waterbury. The term “Waterbury cabinet clock” generated some hits. I found one on an auction site then, two more. I now have a case made by a different maker than the movement and in clock circles this is called a marriage.

The case is a Waterbury model called the “Wren”. I found three Wren models, two with paper dials and one with the identical dial pan as this clock. It may well be that this dial pan is original to the case.

Despite the fact that it is a marriage I might keep it. The case is attractive and the movement fits the case, although both the centre hole and regulator hole over the 12 look to have been bored out and not in a tidy way.

The dial has been cleaned and repainted.

Now to the case. It Stands 13 1/8″ Tall By 12 5/8″ Wide And 5 1/2″ deep. As of this writing if you search for this model you might see one or two without the top crown. It is easily detached and no surprise that it might go missing.

The case is in good shape with no parts missing however, the top finial on the right is not correctly aligned with the bottom column which I did not notice till I began cleaning the case. Evidently it had detached in the past and a past repairer glued it back not noticing the misalignment. It was simple matter of prying the finial off, regluing and centering it.

Two other pieces had to be reglued, a support piece for the crown and crosspiece in the back for one of the sides of the crown.

I cleaned the case with Murphy’s soap and following the scrubbing I decided that there was enough shellac worn off that a fresh coat would make the case much more appealing.

I applied traditional shellac, mixing amber flakes and alcohol with a broad artists brush. In the next shot you can see the difference between the left side of the crown and the right. I now have the option of leaving the finish as-is or aging it by “dulling” it with 4X0 steel wool.

In the next photo is the completed case.

To me it is a huge improvement.

All this is being done while the movement is undergoing testing and once the testing is complete the two, the case and the movement will be “married” again.

Now if I can find the matching glass and bezel it will be complete.

July 27, 2021

Using a paint roller to revive a clock dial

It might sound a little strange to use a paint roller on a clock dial. This is not just any paint roller but one specifically designed for the purpose. The candidate is a embossed dial pan for a Waterbury Wren shelf clock C.1895.

Most of the paint has been rubbed off the dial over the years which you can see in the photo below.

Should the dial be left as-is or retouched? It is an age-old clockmaker’s dilemma. We all have our views but I tend to take the position that if it is grimy and unsightly and takes away from the look of the clock it should be cleaned and retouched.

I decided to start from scratch. I knew that if I immersed the dial in my ultrasonic cleaner with the heat setting on I would risk stripping away all paint from the numbers and that is exactly what happened.

The cleaning also took off a thick layer of grime and dirt leaving a much brighter dial.

Hand painting is an art and a steady hand means the difference between a homemade job and one close to the original factory application. I used a multi surface water-based acrylic satin black paint, one I often use for clock dials, hands and so on.

Here is the dial just out of the ultrasonic cleaner. All paint has been released from the embossed areas. The ultrasonic solution was black and had to be discarded.

The paint roller is made out of 18 gauge wire and masking tape, specifically made for this job. I added a strip of double-sided tape to the roller to allow a rough surface so that the paint could adhere.

The roller worked reasonably well over the embossed dial and it was certainly a lot faster than hand painting. Excess paint was removed from the dial with a Q-tip and toothpick.

I used the roller for the chapter ring as well. After rolling there were some touch-ups and an artists brush #2-0 was used for areas the roller could not reach.

I allowed the paint to dry and scraped off the excess.

I am very pleased with the results. Here is a before and after shot of the dial.

It is not factory perfect but from a reasonable viewing distance it is difficult to tell it was repainted plus, it looks much more presentable.

Now, to find a 5 1/2 inch bezel and glass to complement the dial.

July 23, 2021

Fleet Time mantel clock with Gufa movement – servicing the movement

About a year ago I picked up two clocks. I had my eye on one, an Arthur Pequegnat Canuck shelf clock, and the other was “thrown in” as part of the deal. We completed the transaction on the Pequegnat clock and the seller asked me if I wouldn’t mind looking at a mantel clock stored on a shelf in his garage. He said, “for $10 more you can have this”. I did not know the make at the time but for $10, why not! It was in sad condition as you can see in the next photo.

A tin plate affixed on the back of the clock told me what it was made by the Fleet Time Company of Montreal (Canada).

Many of these clocks were sold at department stores across Canada during the pre-war (WWII) era. However, this little-known Canadian clock company had a brief life span. Between 1936 and 1940 the company produced a range of two and three-train mantel clocks with movements sourced from Germany but were forced to end their operations when the war began.

The Second World War took a heavy toll on this company as the source of movements dried up and so did the company’s fortunes.

Wood cases were made in Canada for some models while other cabinets were imported from Germany.

Servicing the movement

I had completed work on the case a few months ago and now it is time to service the movement.

The clock has a Gufa Westminster chime movement. Gufa is the Guetenbacher Uhrenfabrik, located in Gütenbach, Germany. They manufactured 400-day clocks, cuckoo-clocks and later they became the “Jahresuhrenfabrik” (August Schatz & Sons in Triberg, Germany). Gufa is not a name horologists come across very often in North American. There is a chime gear patent date number ending in 34 which likely refers to the year 1934 indicating manufacture between 1935 and 1939. It is a solid, well-built movement.

Assessment of the movement

I had replaced the time mainspring shortly after I bought the clock but I knew that I would eventually have the movement on the workbench. As is typical of German clocks of this period in that the mainspring barrels can be removed without dismantling the movement, so, replacing the time mainspring was an easy fix.

The clock was running, though not well. On the fourth or fifth day, the chimes (and strike) would stop though the time train would soldier on a few days more. Wear issues on the strike and chime train had to be addressed.

I disassembled the movement, put the parts into the ultrasonic cleaner, and discovered afterwards that the plates had been lacquered. With the ultrasonic heat setting on, the lacquer stripped off but not uniformly. As it is a $10 clock I am not concerned about aesthetics.

Fleet wheels — Fleet movement wheels tied together according to location

To eliminate the chance that I would mix up the wheels for the 3 trains, I tied each set together. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner I untied them and placed them in their respective trays. Westminster chime movements have similar-looking gears in the three trains and it is best to separate them to avoid frustration during re-assembly.

After inspecting the movement I determined that new bushings were required on the second wheels plus the motion works arbour. Three of the second wheels on the backplate, one bushing for the strike side second wheel front plate, and one for the motion works for a total of 5 new bushings; not bad for a 3-train movement. These are the typical wear points on three-train movements as the second wheels handle the greatest load.

Bushing work

Once the pivot holes were pegged out and the wheels rechecked in their locations, the bushing begins. Aside from the second wheels, most other pivot holes were in good shape. I don’t often use bushings with an outside diameter of 4.50mm but this movement required 4 in total. All bushings had to be reamed out with a cutting broach followed by a smoothing broach. All wheels were test fit with the plates together and things looked good.

Reassembly

Next is reassembly. With so many wheels it is a bit trickier than a two-train movement but it is important to work slowly and carefully to avoid a bent pivot. Once the wheels are positioned, test each train to check that everything is in place. After the nuts are tightened, the remaining parts such as the locking plate, chime locking lever, warning lever, rack snail, mainspring barrels and so on are installed/attached.

Testing

Of all movements, three trains are the most difficult to set up correctly. Although all three trains spin independently they are interconnected by levers. In order for everything to function in unison, careful attention must be paid to the job of each lever, what it does and how it performs its function every 15 minutes.

Gufa movement, front plate showing rack, snail, levers, and so on

Everything went fairly smoothly. Both the strike side and chime side go into warning as they should, the locking plate stops the chime at each quarter-hour including the hour, which is a good sign the locking hook on the chime train is in the correct position.

The chime strike lever is, however, sticking on the strike warning pin. Without taking the movement apart I used 1600 grit memory paper to smooth the hook end surface where it meets the strike warning wheel pin. The polishing allowed it to function a little better but continued testing revealed that that solution did not work. I finally had to remove the chime strike lever and polish the hook. the polishing was successful.

The next issue is the strike paddle which is ending the strike sequence hanging off one of the star points. The plates on the strike side must be opened up and the paddle repositioned. For safety reasons and to preserve the mechanism should things go awry, the power is let down on all mainsprings. Adjustments such as these come with the territory as nothing should be expected to work perfectly the first time.

After the aforementioned adjustments are made, next is the chime sequence and that means loosening the set screw for the main chime wheel and rotating the drum till the quarter strike is at the 1-2-3-4, the beginning of the sequence.

Once the adjustments have been made it is back to the test stand.

Okay, my strike paddle adjustment did not work but in the meantime, the testing of the movement proceeded and everything looks very good at this point. I will give it a few days and return to re-adjusting that paddle.

Everything is working now.

I’ll be honest, 3 train movements are not my favorite type to work on for 4 reasons. One, they often need major work only after a few years. Secondly, it is often not enough to install new bushings for worn pivot holes lower in the trains but to address other worn holes up the trains, as well. Thirdly, they are labour intensive and finally, except for modern movements, parts are almost impossible to find.

In many cases, certainly as far as a modern Hermle is concerned, it is often more cost-effective to simply replace the movement rather than repair it.

July 14, 2021

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