I was the successful online bidder for an E. Ingraham Grecian time and strike shelf clock in early January 2021. My wife and I had to travel 3 hours, from one part of Nova Scotia to another, to pick the clock up but since we were taking a small staycation in the nearby area the antique shop was on our way.
It is a very interesting design and I researched not only this clock but the period that influenced its design.
Let’s travel back in time to Duncan Phyfe, a prominent American furniture designer (1768-1854). His interpretation of fashionable European trends made him a major influence in the Neoclassical movement in the United States impacting an entire generation of cabinet-makers. The era of Greek furniture design quickly came to the clock world in the form of “Grecian” clocks made by a number of clock manufacturers including Joseph Ives, E. N. Welch, Seth Thomas, and Ingraham.
This is the E. Ingraham & Co.’s interpretation of the Grecian clock, called appropriately enough, the “Grecian”.
The design is a classical influence and it is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today. It has a molded Rosewood bezel with carved volutes below the dial frame. The dial frame and bezel are one section that makes up the hinged front access door. I have seen walnut-cased versions and mosaic maple and walnut as well. The mosaic versions are probably the most desirable.
Elias Ingraham was a case designer and no doubt had a hand not only in the design but the choice of woods used for case construction.
It has a paint-on-zinc dial, moon-shaped hands, and Roman chapters. The Grecian model was available as a 30-hour spring-driven, time and strike, 30-hour time and strike with alarm, 8-day time and strike, and 8-day time and strike with alarm. This one is the 8-day time and hour-strike alarm version. All models strike on a cast bell made of iron, or in this case, brass. Features such as exotic/mixed woods, alarm, and 8-day function would have been an extra charge at the time. The clocks were made between the years 1868 and 1883 with an 1880 catalog price of $5.25 for the 30-hour clock with alarm.
It has a green triangular-shaped paper label inside the back panel of the case which is in fair condition. There are 3 patent dates on the label, September 30, 1862, March 31, 1868, and June 6th, 1871. The newest clocks of this model would have had October 8, 1878, and still newer, November 11, 1879 patent dates so, this clock was made after 1871 and before 1878. The fact that the clock can be dated within a 5 year period is a plus.
Once I receive the clock and look it over more carefully I will post my first impressions and the work that must be done to restore both the clock movement and the case to its former glory. Stay tuned.
This is a Smiths Enfield Art Deco-style clock that reflects the clean lines and geometric design of the 1930s. It needs a few adjustments to ensure smooth operation before being listed for sale. Perfect for collectors or anyone who appreciates vintage clocks of this era.
Smiths Enfield mantel clock
The Smiths Clock Co. became Smiths Enfield in 1949 and the Smiths Enfield name first appeared in catalogs from 1950 onward. This oak-cased time and strike shelf clock was made somewhere between 1949 and 1955, vintage, but not antique. More information on this company can be found here. The latter part of the 1970s saw the decline of this and many other companies who fought hard to compete with inexpensive clock offerings from the Far East.
The clock keeps good time, but there’s an issue with the strike side. While the strike has a pleasant sound, it operates erratically. This may be an adjustment issue that will require removing the movement from the case for further inspection.
Once out of its case, I ran the strike side going through each hour observing the action of the levers and the snail. The setup is conventional but there is no rat tail per se on this movement just a pin or striker point midway along the rack arm. The rack pin was hitting the sloping edge of the plateau part of the snail, and the pin was not connecting with the flat section of the snail.
Smiths Enfield movement
The Adjustment
To make the adjustment, I removed the clip and washer to release the snail. I advanced the snail to the one o’clock position and removed the snail and reinserted it so that it was placed approximately where the rack pin hits midway along the plateau of the snail. This will permit the snail to fall at the midpoint throughout the 12-hour cycle. On the test stand, I monitored the strike sequence.
Determining the sweet spot in similar movements that have a rack and snail arrangement will take some experimentation.
As expected, I found that when advancing the strike, the paddle was catching on one of the points of the star wheel. This could either stall the strike train or cause an extra strike on the hour.
Although it is a simple adjustment the mainsprings must be let down and the plates pulled apart enough to relocate the paddle arbour so that the paddle is positioned between two tips of the star wheel. In the process of manipulating the levers, one or two other wheels may pop out. After repositioning all the wheels, secure one corner of the plate with a screw and proceed with testing the strike-side action.
Smiths Enfield movement, testing
The clock had clearly been out of sorts for quite some time. Now that everything is properly adjusted and functioning as it should, it can be confidently sold without the dreaded disclaimer, “might need some adjustment.”
Canadian clock collectors are most familiar with the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company that closed its doors in 1941 but 7 years later a number of clock companies were alive and flourishing in Canada, predominantly in areas in and around Toronto.
It is difficult to imagine that seventy years ago there were ten active clock companies in Canada. Unfortunately, none of these companies survived beyond the late 1970s.
Could any of these companies survive today?
Here are the ten Canadian clock manufacturers in no particular order:
BRESLIN INDUSTRIES: of Toronto: Clocks were a sideline for this company run by the Breslin family, whose products were focused on lamps, lampshades, and novelties. The only clocks in existence have horses as the typical 1950s theme. The wind-up movements are the same Ingraham type used by Snider, another company on this list.
INGRAHAM CANADIAN CLOCK COMPANY of Toronto. Ingraham clocks were being made by the original American company in Bristol, Connecticut from the mid-1800s. The Canadian factory was located in Toronto from the late 1940s until at least 1980. Wall and alarm models, the latter with wind-up or electric movements, were made for the Canadian market. Representative examples of typical alarm, kitchen, and starburst wall clocks with Ingraham Canadian, Ingraham Canadian Clock Co. Ltd, or Ingraham plus Made in Canada on the dial. The novelty windup alarm clocks, The Westerner and The Mountie are popular with collectors of animated models.
WESTCLOX CANADAof Peterborough, Ontario: The parent company started making alarm clocks in LaSalle, Illinois, near Chicago, before 1900. The Canadian factory operations began in Peterborough in 1920. The new building was ready in 1923. Business was so good that additions were put on several times up to the 1950s.
Westclox Peterborough plant
However, by the mid-1980s the North American Westclox factories were closing down in favour of lower labour costs from China. Westclox is best known for its millions of Big Ben and Baby Ben windup and electric alarm clocks made in various styles between 1920 and the early 1980s in Canada. The company also make wall clocks for kitchens, dining, and recreation rooms starting in the 1930s. If collecting, avoid Westclox alarm clocks made in China.
Westclox LaSalle alarm clock, assembled in Peterborough, Ontario
SETH THOMAS CLOCKSof Peterborough, Ontario: This old company was founded by Seth Thomas in the early 1800s in Plymouth, Connecticut (now Thomaston). In 1931 it became part of General Time Corporation, which owned Westclox. Seth Thomas brand mantel, alarm, and wall clocks were produced for the Canadian market in the Westclox factory from 1931 to the mid-1980s. However, inferior clocks produced under the Talley Industries brand are avoided by serious collectors.
NEW HAVEN CLOCK COMPANYof Brantford, Ontario: The parent company was based in New Haven, Connecticut originating in1900. Some mantel and wall clocks were made in Brantford with Canadian wood cases, but the spring-driven pendulum movements were brought in from the U.S. factory. Most clocks were made for schools and offices.
New Haven schoolhouse clock, made in the USA but assembled in Brantford, Ontario
FORESTVILLE CLOCK COMPANY of Toronto: Set up by Leopold and Sarah Stossel as the Blackforest Clock Company in Toronto in 1928 the name changed to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941 because of World War II, and continued in business until the late 1970s. Forestville sourced movements from England, France and Germany.
1970s Forestville Westminster chime, Canadian case(?) with German movement
Blackforest shelf clock circa 1939
CANADIAN NEON-RAY CLOCK COMPANY: The main product was “Bulb Illuminated” advertising clocks. this business was in operation from about 1942 to the mid-1960s In Montreal. Many companies purchased these clocks to advertise their products such as soft drinks, beer, service station items like motor oil and spark plugs, ice cream, paints, meats, and mattresses. French-language, as well as English advertising clocks, are commonly found in Canada.
CANADIAN GENERAL ELECTRIC of Barrie, Ontario. In addition to large industrial electrical components, CGE produced electric alarm, table, and kitchen wall clocks for the Canadian market from the 1930s into at least the 50s. CGE kitchen wall and alarm clocks were produced in large numbers.
SNIDER CLOCK MANUFACTURING COMPANY LIMITED of Toronto. The Snider Clock Corporation and its successor, the Snider Clock Mfg Company, flourished for over twenty-five years (1950 to 1976). Their success is a tribute to Harry Snider and his family for the many unique clock designs that were created, to the effective construction methods developed by Harry and then Michael Snider for them, and to their business skills in promoting and selling their clocks through hundreds of stores across Canada.
Former location of the Snider Clock Company
WALTER CLOCKS of Toronto. The main product was mantel clocks. All of the cases were made in Toronto. At least a dozen different models were produced in the mid to the late 1930s before WWII. During that time, both time & strike and Westminster chimes spring-driven movements were imported from Britain and Germany. The war meant that overseas movements were not available and clock production stopped. But many more models were made after WWII, from the late 1940s through to the late 1950s. The prewar models had walnut veneer cases and hinged back doors. The removable round door on the back of the postwar models mostly made with less expensive, stained birch wood, was unique. Production continued up to the late 1950s when the last of the Walter Clocks mantel clocks were made.
Gone forever. It is a shame. Gone is the knowledge, expertise, and entrepreneurship. Could any of these companies survive today? No, they were important in their day, thrived on innovation and some were ahead of their time but the world is a different place today.
DBs friend’s clock is similar to this one, an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon (2nd edition)
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
DB wrtes,
“Good morning, I stumbled across your site this morning while looking around for parts for what I think is a Pequegnat Brandon. It belongs to a friend and is missing the pendulum bob and key, but she thinks it works otherwise. I found parts that seem to be appropriate, but I’d like to find originals (or close to it) if I could.
Any advice?”
Pendulum bob
My reply,
Hi DB,
Thanks for your email. There is no known source for original Pequegnat parts although you might get lucky on eBay when clocks are parted out. It must be as close to 4.3 oz. or 125 grams, 62mm or 2.5 inches as possible, and it must be adjustable. I don’t see anything at Perrins, a Canadian supplier and the closest I could find is this one at Timesavers in the US. This one at Ronell looks to be the same but cheaper.
For today’s post, we are looking at a German time and strike mantel clock with a Hermle movement and sold in Canada under the Solar name. It has a 6″ dial and dark walnut case that would have been around $50 or $60 when new in the 1960s. At about 13” wide by 7” high by and 4” deep it is small by mantel clock standards and would fit just about anywhere in a home or office.
Solar clock, just a little taller than a beer can
It has a type 141 German movement from Hermle with a recoil escapement and 11cm pendulum (200.8 bpm). The half-hour strike on a bell is pretty sound for a mantel clock but is loud enough to be heard across the house. As a testament to its design and durability, this movement is still being produced by Hermle today.
Solar Hermle movement
This was not a running clock when I bought it but I thought a good cleaning was all it required. Judging from mars and scratches on the backplate of the movement it has been worked on in the past.
I took the movement out of its case to examine it more closely and I was relieved when I saw that the pivots were not plated, the bane of Hermle movements from the 1970s to the late 1980s. In those days Hermle used soft steel pivots for their movements and plated them for hardness. The plating has been known to peel off and this requires repivoting which is a time-consuming process. When there is too much pivot work to be done the movement is simply tossed out. This movement predates the plated pivot period.
I did not see any evidence of bushing work on the movement but one or both mainsprings were replaced as the barrels had numerous scratch marks on them. As is typical of clocks of this period the mainspring barrels can be removed without disassembling the movement. The winding arbours simply pull out once the rachet is removed. Mainsprings on some German clocks are a known weakness.
Hermle movement, you can see the S on the strike barrel
The movement was in very good condition with minimal wear.
Hermle movement, front plate removed
The movement was disassembled, parts cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner, the pivot holes pegged, and the pivots polished. The warning wheel is plastic and did not go into the ultrasonic machine, a cost-savings measure by Hermle no doubt on a part that has almost no load.
Hermle plastic stop wheel
I assembled the parts to check for wear and found that the movement required two bushings, the star wheel, backplate, and the lower drive wheel rear plate, both quite worn. All other pivot holes were within acceptable tolerances.
Installing two bushings
The starwheel bushing installation was simple enough. The center cannon wheel had to be removed so that the backplate bushing hole could be accessed. Bushing work went without a hitch.
Now for putting that centre wheel back on. An oval tension spring just below it must be tight enough but allow the arbour to move. Attempting to reinstall the brass washer was frustrating and as you can see I made some nasty marks trying to get it back into place (below photo). After several tries, I just could not get it tight enough.
Hermle movement, washer, and tension spring
I attempted to stake the washer but that did not work. None of my stock of brass tubes had the correct inside diameter and I was reluctant to put a lot of work into making a friction washer with my mini-lathe.
Solar center wheel friction washer, not reusable
However, I discovered a simpler solution, a brass Bergeon bushing.
Hermle movement’s new friction washer is a brass bushing
The arbour is roughly 2.6mm and a bushing with an inside diameter of 2.5mm provided a good friction fit. The bushing is also large enough to cover the tension spring underneath. Perhaps not the intended purpose of a brass bushing but it works! In many other German clocks, there is a pin through the arbour and it can be easily taken off but not on this one.
Reassembly and testing
After test fitting all the parts it is off to the next stage, resembling the movement. When reassembling a rack and snail movement there a number of things to consider but in my view, the three most important steps are ensuring the warning wheel pin is in the roughly 12 o’clock position to permit a half-turn to set up the strike, that the strike paddle is between two star points and not resting on the point of star wheel (a strike train that starts up under load may stall) and that the gathering pallet pin is well clear of the rack teeth. On a typical rack and snail movement, all other adjustments are done outside the plates.
Then comes the testing phase which generally lasts a couple of weeks or more depending on what issues may arise.
In the meantime, I took the opportunity to clean the case and touch up some small chips on the decorator piece under the dial.
In the 1960s, T. Eaton & Co., one of Canada’s most iconic department stores, offered a variety of home goods to suit the tastes of the era. Among their diverse range of products was a charming collection of clocks, including the small but striking mantel clock that continues to capture the attention of collectors today. Its distinctive style and craftsmanship represented a unique intersection of mass-market appeal and decorative elegance.
In this article, we take a closer look at this somewhat ordinary-looking clock, exploring its design, history, and place within the broader context of mid-century Canadian home décor.
Solar mantel clock
A changing economic and retail environment in the late 1990s, along with mismanagement, culminated in the chain’s dissolution in 1999. As a young child, I remember pouring through the Eatons “Christmas Wish Book” trying to decide on that perfect gift….for me!
1975 Eaton’s catalogue, page 184, clocks (Online image: Fair Use; for information purposes only)
Eaton’s catalogue, as well as department stores spread across Canada, sold a variety of clocks including this mantel clock with a German-made Hermle movement under their house brand, Solar. Many of the Solar clocks sold from the 1950s through to the 1980s survive in Canadian homes to this day more as decorations rather than functional pieces.
This particular example is a time and strike mantel clock featuring a 6″ dial and a dark walnut case. Priced at approximately $50 or $60 when it was first sold, it measures around 13″ wide, 7″ high, and 4″ deep. Its compact size makes it an ideal choice for homes where space is limited, fitting comfortably in nearly any room without overwhelming the space.
Equipped with a Type 141 German movement from Hermle, this clock features a recoil escapement, an 11cm pendulum, and operates at a rate of 200.8 beats per minute. It strikes on the half-hour with a bell, though its chime isn’t particularly melodious. As a testament to its design and durability, the type 141 is still being produced by Hermle GmbH & Co. KG today.
It also came with instructions and a product card from Eatons.
Solar with type 141 Hermle movement (trademark FHS)
When I purchased the clock, it wasn’t running, and I hoped that a thorough cleaning would restore its function. The scratches and gouges on the backplate of the movement suggest that it has been serviced before. However, I won’t know the full extent of any previous repairs until I remove the movement from its case for a closer inspection. My main concern is the possibility of plated pivots, which were a common issue with Hermle clocks from the late 1970s to the late 1980s. Fortunately, I have a strong feeling that this clock predates that troublesome period.
The case, on the other hand, is in near-perfect condition.
It will be serviced and put up for sale. I am not normally in the business of selling clocks but will sell the odd one locally to trim my collection and cover clock supplies.
Look for an upcoming blog article on the servicing of the Hermle movement.
Do you ever run into those situations working with clock movements when one little thing is so annoying? I recently serviced one of my box clocks, a Mauthe with a bim-bam strike. Everything went according to plan except for one small issue; the strike side was misbehaving. I’ll explain a little later but first something about the clock.
German “box” clock by Mauthe
Nowhere on this clock German “box” clock by Mauthe does it have the Mauthe trademark or name, not on the clock face or any markings on the movement. However, an excellent clue is the two-rod gong, which was made by Divina, a subsidiary of Mauthe.
Divina rod gong
The clock was likely sold under the Forestville or Solar name in department stores across Canada in the 1940s. There is an applique of a maple leaf on the crown so, I would like to think it was made for the Canadian market. These are very good movements, are designed for long life and the sound of the gong is impressive.
So, what’s the problem?
The movement was taken out, cleaned, and one bushing installed. The movement is in very good overall condition despite having last seen a servicing in 1979 according to a date scratched on the front plate.
Mauthe movement front plate
Putting these German movements back together is not that difficult but one always must be mindful of the small pivots and the risk of bending or breaking one. How do I know that? Well, I might have bent or broken one or two along my journey through clock repair but not on this movement.
Mauthe movement backplate
Two critical adjustments prior to assembling the plates are the placement of both the stop or warning wheel and the star wheel.
Mauthe movement and the star wheel
The stop or warning wheel requires about half a rotation to arrest the train during the warning phase by means of a stop pin. During dis-assembly I made a note of the location pin, at approximately the 12 o’clock position which saved time and frustration and it worked just fine once assembled.
What I missed was the correct positioning of the star wheel relative to the two hammer arbours. Because there are two actuators and two paddles, they must be placed between two star points on the wheel. Otherwise, one of the paddles will become hung up on a star point at the end of the strike.
For example, during the end of the strike, you might hear the bim part of the “bim-bam” strike and the bam part at the beginning of the next strike. Of course, there is always the risk that the hung up paddle will stop the train entirely.
It is a simple adjustment but the mainsprings must be let down for safety reasons and the plates pulled apart enough to relocate the paddle lever arbours so that both paddles are between the star points. In the process of repositioning the levers, one or two other wheels may or may not pop out. Once all the wheels are relocated, screw down the corner of the plate and test the strike side action.
After the adjustment, the strike side ran as it should. It is a little thing but pretty annoying especially when it is discovered after the movement is put together.
In clock repair, fine-tune adjustments are part of the experience.
2020 was a very trying year for us all and I suppose that applies to clock collectors generally when it comes to acquisitions. Despite the pandemic, I managed to purchase a few clocks though obviously, not as many as in other years.
The contenders for the year are clocks from Solar, Junghans, Sessions, Arthur Pequegnat, and Fleet, leading up to the big winner of the year, a Scottish tall case clock.
Solar
First on the list is an attractive German-made Solar time and strike mantel clock, sold by the Eatons Department store chain in Canada during the 1960s and 70s.
Solar mantel clock, 1965
It has a Hermle type 141 movement and strikes the half-hour on a bell. It was a non-working clock when I bought it for $20 but it was simple enough to service and now runs like a charm. I will likely sell it locally for a few dollars more.
Junghans bracket clock
For $40 I could not possibly go wrong with this bracket clock even though it was a non-working clock and need some serious TLC. I serviced the movement, refreshed the case, polished the brass, added new feet and the clock now occupies a prominent location in my family room.
Junghans time and strike bracket clock, 1911
Sessions 3W electric clock
The diminutive Sessions desk clock has a Synchron motor (60 cycles per second) and the only repair is to replace the plug. I like the simplicity and style. It has some issues consistent with an 87-year-old electric clock but it is in pretty good shape for its age.
Sessions desk clock, 1934
Arthur Pequegnat
Next is an Arthur Pequegnat Canuck time and strike gingerbread or kitchen clock as it is otherwise known. This was another inexpensive find, $50 on an online for-sale site, and for $10 more, another clock completed the deal.
Arthur Pequegnat canuck, inset shows the dial before restoration, 1918
I spent a considerable amount of time on this clock, refreshing the case, inpainting the dial, and refurbishing the movement. I was very satisfied with the results and this clock will join my collection of 7 other Arthur Pequegnat clocks. A nice find for a very good price.
Fleet Time Company
Next is a Fleet Westminster chime mantel clock from the late 1930s, made by the Fleet Time Company of Montreal. Fleet assembled clocks for 4 short years before World War II sourcing movements from Germany with locally made cases. It is the $10 clock that was combined with the deal above.
Fleet Westminster time mantel clock, 1937
The clock as received
I refurbished the case and replaced the time side mainspring but did nothing to the movement except re-oil it. The case was completely stripped down to the bare wood followed by the application of a medium oak stain and a clear satin topcoat. This is a lovely mantel clock with a rich Westminster chime and I will probably keep this one in my collection since it was assembled in Montreal and represents a small but important piece of Canadian horological history.
McLachlan tall case clock
Finally, let’s come to my prize for the year, bought at a live auction in February 2020, a Scottish tall case clock assembled by William McLachlan of Newton, Steward in 1848. Completely restored were the dial, movement, and the case, which required extensive structural repairs.
Scottish tall case clock, 1848
With an English bell strike movement, tall, stately mahogany case, beautiful hand-painted dial and heavy 13 lb weights, this clock has a commanding presence in my home. If you have ever heard the sound of an antique bell strike clock you will understand that is it as loud as it is because it was designed to echo through a stately Scottish manor. It is a conversation piece and those who have seen it marvel at its condition and age.
Despite a difficult year, I was pleased with my purchases. I am confident that 2021 will be a better year for me as a clock collector and a better year for us all.
A small change makes a big difference on a Junghans mantel clock from 1911. Let me explain.
Back in September 2020, I bought a German-made Junghans bracket style clock. It is 14 inches high by 10 inches wide by 6 inches deep, mahogany veneered, attractive brass accents, and a carrying handle on a curved domed top.
Junghans bracket clock
I just love the way it looks.
Junghans bracket clock handle
What about those chrome feet
The clock is original in almost every way; the quality time and strike movement is original to the clock, the spiral gong is correct; latches, bezels, and so on look good and work perfectly but for some strange reason it has replacement chrome feet and they bug the heck out of me.
Why should a small detail mar the classic lines of this clock!
Junghans bracket clock, chrome foot
After searching various online auction sites, I discovered that the original corner feet would have looked like the ones in the below photographs. I can only surmise that many years ago one fell off, got lost and the repairer simply found what would work and tossed the other three feet out.
Clock feet (Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)
Clock feet (Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)
So, where to find corner feet. There are a number of suppliers worldwide but my usual go-to supplier here in Canada, Perrins who are otherwise excellent, has a very limited selection of clock case corner feet and not in the style or size I was looking for.
US suppliers similarly have a limited supply as bracket clocks are not as popular there as overseas. England is the logical place to look since it is the land of the bracket clock.
Interestingly, the term bracket clock first appeared in 19th century England and is commonly referred to as a spring-driven pendulum table clock with a carrying handle (and often with subsidiary dials) so that it could be moved from room to room in the owner’s home. Of course, true bracket clocks had a strike silencer so as not to disturb the owner’s beauty sleep.
Using the search term “brass bracket feet” I searched the two largest suppliers in England, Cousins and Meadows and Passmore.
I found exactly what I was looking for at Cousins UK. Cousins calls the part a ridged carriage clock corner foot made of polished brass, sourced from Spain or India. They come in three sizes and for this clock, I chose the smallest one.
It took two weeks from the order date to arrival on my doorstep. I am very impressed!
Bracket clock feet from CousinsUK (Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)
The feet are made of brass and look to be of decent quality.
Installation was simple. Rather than risk splitting the base so near to the edge I pre-drilled the holes. Using a mini electric drill I first marked the holes with each foot in place and drilled a deep enough hole.
Two slotted brass screws are required per foot. As I screwed one screw of each foot I checked for correct orientation and made a small adjustment as necessary.
Perfect!
Corner foot for Junghans bracket clock, the screw holes are pre-drilled
Left front corner foot
The feet are very sturdy and look exactly what the manufacturer would have used at the time.
Junghans bracket clock with new corner feet
Compare this last photo with the first to see the difference the new feet make on this clock.
This is an example of a subtle but important change that is very inexpensive (less than $24) and I am sure you will agree that it makes a dramatic difference.
Junghans Sydney
While I was working on this clock I visited the Junghans site and discovered a 1912 Cataloguewhich informs me that this clock was called the Sydney.
It was available in fumed oak or mahogany, 14 1/2 inches tall “with brass handle, inlaid polished brass designs, polished brass feet, and plain silver dial”. Both finishes were available with an 8 day or 14-day movement. The quarter strike 8-day clock had 2 gongs while the 14-day movement had 1 gong.
This then is a 14-day movement with a mahogany case and is referred to as model 7020. Judging by the name and the style, this clock was made for the English market.
It seems my research concerning the new polished brass feet paid off very nicely.
Lately, I have been working on a stately bracket clock by Junghans from the latter part of 1911. I love the look of this clock though some would say it is quite plain.
Junghans mantel clock on display on the day it was bought
The Regency style veneered mahogany case of this time and strike bracket clock is in reasonably good condition save for a small piece of veneer missing on the right side of the base and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place.
I had completed servicing the movement a while back but also planned to address both the case and the dial as part of the rejuvenation of this clock.
After a thorough cleaning (and scrubbing) with Murphy’s soap, I freshened up the case followed by three coats of shellac.
The top of the clock looked good after a cleaning
Cleaning the dial
Silvered dials present a somewhat more challenging problem than zinc painted or paper dials. The silvering is very thin and can be rubbed off easily through over-aggressive cleaning resulting in a damaged finish so, it pays to be cautious.
Here is a prime example of a German U.M. Muller wall clock dial where someone used a strong cleaner resulting in a serious blemish. The dial must be completely restored. I have no plan to fix it.
U M Muller clock dial, damage between the numbers 6 and 7
Of course, there is the option of leaving this dial as-is but why not attempt a cleaning. As this is a non-porous dial, dirt is surfaced based.
Junghans clock dial and the extent of the dirt and grime
From my research, many methods of dirt removal seemed dubious and any kind of chemical on a silvered dial is plain wrong. I chose to use mild (diluted) liquid soap and Q-tips to lift off the grime. While it took dozens of Q-Tips dipped in soapy water and gentle scrubbing in the direction of the spun dial most of the dirt was removed and none of the silvering was damaged. It is difficult to see any improvement as one proceeds so, it pays to be patient. After a couple of hour’s work of gentle rubbing, this is the end result.
Junghans clock dial after cleaning
While not perfect it is much improved. The aged look remains, with a patina that most would consider acceptable. Following the cleaning, where there was missing paint on the numerals, they were filled in with black acrylic paint. No further restoration is necessary.
Junghans clock project is almost finished but for the lower brass features
Brass features
Next are brass features above the base section. Q-tips (many of them) and Brasso (Simichrome works well too) are perfect for bringing up the shine. Following the polishing, everything is wiped clean with soap and water and the inset panels are given a fresh coat of shellac.
The carrying handle on top was also cleaned with Brasso.
Junghans Cbracket style clock
Dial work and case cleaning are options when bringing any clock back to life but it boils down to personal choice. Some choose to leave things as they are to retain the original patina but I am in the camp that a little cleaning goes a long way. Cleaning takes time and patience, however. You may not see the results immediately but work carefully and you will be amply rewarded.
You may have noticed that the feet are different in the last photo but I will save that story for another day.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile or my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
Double-ended keys
TD says,
“Hi Ron, I’m TD. I purchased a Gilbert Clock from an antique store in xxxxxxx, Wis. It’s a Gilbert Tambour style mantel clock model 2041. It’s marked “Normandy Chime 2041.” The question I have is what is the keyhole under number 12 for? The clock sat in the store for a long time, that is till it found ME. I have a thing for old clocks. I feel they’re a living thing and it’s a shame if they’re not ticking away as long as they’re able to. Just like Us!”
Gilbert mantel clock 1925, small arbour below the 12 is for regulating the clock
Gilbert movement, the top centre is the regulating mechanism
My response,
Hi TD,
I have a Gilbert tambour 2038 with Normandy Chime which is similar in some ways. Look at the key that came with your clock. It should be doubled ended one like this one.
The small end fits into an arbor just below the “12”. This is for regulating the speed of your clock. You might see an “S” and an ”F” above the 12. Turning the key clockwise speeds up the clock and counterclockwise slows it down. If you have only a single-ended key, it is the wrong type for your clock although it will wind it up.
I also have a thing for old clocks. Be careful it is addictive.
Hope this helps.”
Whoops! Should have been published on Tuesday. My wife caught the error this morning.
Let me start by saying that opinions on torsion clocks are divided—some people have great success with them, while others absolutely loathe them. Despite their seemingly simple design, they can cause endless frustration, which is why many clock repairers tend to avoid them. Fortunately, I seem to be one of the lucky ones.
TheKundo Standard size 400-day clock wound once per year
I gifted this clock to my daughter three years ago. She chose it for its intriguing visible movement and the convenience of running an entire year without winding. Recently, she moved across the country, and during the relocation, the clock “broke.” “Can you fix it, Dad?” she asked. “Leave it with me,” I replied.
400-day clocks, also known as torsion clocks, have been around for over a century. They were first produced in limited numbers in the mid-1890s, but their popularity surged after 1900. Between then and the 1980s, thousands were manufactured, becoming a favorite choice for wedding and retirement gifts—hence the nickname “anniversary clock.”
The Kundo model featured here dates back to the late 1950s or 1960s, during the height of production. However, with the advent of quartz clocks, mechanical versions quickly fell out of favor.
Kundo is a well-known name in the world of anniversary clocks. The name is a combination of Kieninger and Obergfell, a highly respected German company. Today, the company continues as Kieninger, operating as a subsidiary of Howard Miller USA.
Dial face, Kundo Clock
Servicing a 400-day Clock
To service a 400-day clock, I highly recommend using the Horolovar 400-Day Repair Guide as a reference. Can you repair a 400-day clock without it? Yes, but the Horolovar guide eliminates almost all the guesswork.
This particular 400-day clock is a Kundo Standard 53, which requires a .0032″ (0.081mm) Horolovar spring. If you don’t have the time or tools to assemble the suspension units yourself, Horolovar (or most clock suppliers) offers fully assembled units. However, these come at a significantly higher cost.
Section 10 of the Horolovar guide includes templates for various clocks. These templates provide precise patterns for positioning the fork and attaching the upper and lower blocks to the suspension wire, ensuring proper assembly.
The suspension spring assembly includes the top and bottom block plus the fork
The screws on the suspension assembly are very small, so using a high-quality precision screwdriver is essential to avoid damaging them. The suspension spring is longer than needed and will require trimming to fit. Once the spring is securely attached to the fork and blocks, it’s ready to be reinstalled onto the movement.
Kundo anniversary clock movement
The suspension spring assembly hooks onto the top cock and bottom weights or balls. A threaded thumbscrew on the top base slips into the top block. The bottom block has two pins to which the pendulum hangs. Next are the back spring cover and the locking guard.
Torsion clocks have pendulum locking systems that must be engaged even when the clock is moved just a few feet. Often, the result of an unlocked clock is a broken suspension spring. The locking guard on this clock is an earlier design and looks pretty flimsy in my view but it should work.
Once the spring assembly is installed on the movement it is time to test the beat. The beat should be 8 beats per minute and there should be ample overswing in both directions. A 270-degree rotation is healthy enough.
What makes the 400-day anniversary clock a great addition to a collection?
They are:
Relatively inexpensive to buy, although some models like Schatz and Gustav Becker are more sought-after and therefore more expensive.
Very quiet in operation.
Easy to disassemble, clean, and reassemble due to having few parts.
Slow runners, meaning wear is rarely an issue.
A fantastic conversation piece.
Long runners, with some lasting 400 days or more on a single wind.
What makes them less ideal:
Notoriously inaccurate timekeepers.
Can be frustrating to fine-tune at times.
Since I had previously serviced this clock, I was able to loosen the tiny screws on the blocks and fork with ease. Sometimes they can be tight and difficult to remove, but on this occasion, everything went smoothly. As of this writing, the clock has been running well for several weeks.
While it’s currently running slightly fast, small adjustments to the regulating dial will slow it down. However, there’s a limit to how much you can adjust, and it’s not a clock I would rely on for precise timekeeping.
A cuckoo clock will happily run and strike without bellows but it is the bellows that create the unique sound.
When a cuckoo clock requires servicing the bellows should be inspected and if they are in poor condition they should be replaced. The constant, every hour and half-hour strike of the clock combined with the actuation of the bellows causes leaks at the creases as these are the highest wear points.
So, how does one repair the bellows?
Cuckoo clock bellows located on each side of the movement
Carefully take the old bellows tubes out with a hobby knife. On some cuckoo clocks, you may have screws that hold the bellows in place. Once they are out resist the temptation to rip them off the wood columns as the bellows themselves can be used as a template for your new bellows.
Cuckoo clock bellows easily removed by unhooking the actuator rods and releasing a screw
Cuckoo clock bellows actuator rods
Here are the basic steps
Make a tracing of the bellows opening on paper. Scape away all the old covering and old glue with an Exacto knife or similar. Using TYVEK, cut a piece of material approximately 2 inches by 7 inches. On the fixed end of the two bellows pieces glue a new hinge with a strip of TYVEK.
The old Cuckoo clock bellows can be used as a template
Using the template you made earlier and with the bellows open wrap the TYVEK around the bellows. After you are satisfied that it will fit, apply Seal-All or a carpenter’s yellow glue to all outside edges. The sides will have a V-shape. Press the TYVEK to the sides and ends of the bellows for about 2-3 minutes until the glue sets. Trim any excess TYVEK.
Wait for about two hours until the glue is dry. Using a popsicle stick or similar, start by gently making the creases pushing inward as you go. Press the bellows together and clamp (or rubber band) for 24 hours. The TYVEK needs to be formed so that it knows which way to fold when the bellows are actuated.
When done reinstall the bellows back into the clock case, connect the actuators, and re-attach the back cover.
If you hear a “Cuck” but no “Koo” you’ve done something wrong. Once you’ve done a few of these you will get it right every time.
I found this German mantel clock on a local online buy and sell site. The seller had two clocks, one, a generic German-made Westminster chime and this, a Junghans bracket-style clock. I knew right away that this was the better deal. It appeared to be a higher quality clock compared to the other one. I offered a slightly lower price and the seller quickly accepted. He said he never had it running in the two years he owned it and added, “I got to get rid of it, I’m moving”.
Junghans bracket clock handle
During my search to find the model name or number I came across one listed on eBay at the time of writing and two others while browsing similar auction sites. None had the model name or number but prices are all over the map, ranging from $50 to $300. I still do not know the model name or number.
Although it has a carrying handle on the domed top and would be termed a bracket clock, let’s just call it a rather plain-looking mantel clock with a handle. When I envision a classic bracket clock I picture a clock with verge escapement, subsidiary dials over a signed dial housed in a gaudy case. Let’s call this a poor relation.
Junghans clock side view, not cleaned yet
The Regency style veneered mahogany case is in reasonably good condition save for a small piece of veneer missing on the bottom side front and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place. It has not been cleaned in ages and scrubbing with soap and water removed a considerable amount of built-up dirt revealing a very attractive case.
The silvered dial shows some aging consistent with wear and caused when advancing the hands many times combined with the simple act of winding the movement arbors. The hands are original judging from other clocks like it. I may touch up the numbers and the hands in addition to giving the dial a cleaning to spruce things up a bit but we’ll see when I look at it further.
The dial catch, back access catch, and hinges work well. These often break from constant use.
Judging from scratch marks on the backplate, the movement has been worked on in the past. I won’t know the extent or quality of past servicing until I take the movement out of its case and examine it more closely. The movement has a maker’s stamp with B11 just below the mark. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.
Junghans time and strike movement
When I brought it home the clock ran briefly, stopped, and failed to proceed. It will need a thorough servicing and a few adjustments to get it running again.
It is that time of the year when you begin searching for that unique gift. Of course, there are a multitude of choices but have you considered a mechanical clock as a gift? Let me provide you with a few tips.
Gilbert mantel clock
Mechanical clocks harken back to the old days when life was simpler; no mobile telephones, no internet, and no streaming TV. Ah, those were the days!
Okay, so you are reasonably sure that a mechanical clock would be appreciated by the receiver. What to buy? There are a plethora of choices out there and certainly, clocks that would fit every budget from the simple and cheap American kitchen clock to a rare 19th century Boulle figural French mantel clock. Let me attempt to narrow your choices, not with a specific clock but a buying strategy.
Mechanical clocks appeal to those who enjoy the sound, the strike of a clock, or those who merely appreciate it as part of their decor. These factors will influence your choice as a gift.
Here are two examples of clocks I have gifted to my family. My son and his partner have a German Schatz W3 bracket clock in a custom case. It is in excellent mechanical in running condition but it stays quiet on their shelf. Nevertheless, it is the centrepiece for their fireplace mantel.
Schatz W3 in a custom made case
My daughter has a Sessions Raven 8-day mantel clock which sits atop a bookcase in their family room. It only runs when my wife and I visit.
Sessions Raven clock
But they love their clocks.
The following two categories might assist you in your decision to buy a clock for your loved one, a friend, or a business associate.
Category 1 – Those recipients who appreciate a running clock
You will want to avoid a non-working clock. Unless you have the skills in clock repair or know someone who can work on it, it is best to steer away from those. Many sellers use the phrase, “may need some adjustment” which is almost always a red flag for a clock that has issues. These are the cheapest clocks, and for good reason, they are simply worn out.
You may also get lucky and find that special mechanical clock that has been recently serviced and is in good running order but you will pay more because the seller is interested in recouping their investment in the clock.
Buying a clock from a reputable clock repair retailer is a good bet if the clock has been serviced and a warranty is provided but expect to pay significantly more.
Otherwise, there are many buy and sell online sites. I would shop locally and avoid eBay or other online auction sites. Auction sites are a real crapshoot complicated by high shipping costs and the risk that the clock might arrive broken. Yes, that has happened to me!
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 15-day, double spring time-only
The sound of a ticking and striking clock in a room is very soothing for some. For others., not so much
Most clocks are 8-day running which means that they must be wound once per week. There are some quality 15-day and 30-day clocks but they are few and far between.
Daniel Dakota wall clock, made in China
Of the 30-day clocks avoid anything made in China. While 1-day clocks such as Cuckoo clocks and antique Ogees are plentiful and look terrific, winding a clock every day wears thin after a while.
Category 2 – Those recipients who want a mechanical clock as a decoration
Then, there are the folks who are not really that interested if the clock runs or not but want something that fits their decor and is a good conversation piece. A non-working clock with a good case is perfect. If it has the original movement but it is not working there is always the option of fixing it later. Personally, I would shy away from any clock that has its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one.
Focus on the condition of the case. Is it missing any parts, has recent work been done it, does it look authentic? Does it catch people’s attention?
For example, here is a very attractive Seth Thomas 8-day round top in a bold Rosewood case that has had only one minor veneer repair and a replacement dial face, but it looks great!
Seth Thomas round top
You bought the clock but the case is very dirty. Clean it! Some folks might argue that one should not clean a clock case so as to maintain it’s original patina. But, isn’t patina just another word for dirt? Soap and water with gentle scrubbing will make a huge difference. Check out this before and after photo of the cleaning of a clock face.
Junghans clock dial before cleaning
Junghans clock dial after cleaning with soap, water, and Q-tips
And this before and after photo of a gingerbread clock. You need not want to go the extra distance in retouching the dial but soap and water is an easy and non-invasive method of improving the look of the case itself.
Very grimy clock case especially the base section
After, showing a clean case and a retouched dial
Final words
A mechanical clock makes an excellent gift and it is something that can be passed down from one generation to the next. My kids appreciate a mechanical clock from their dad and I will gift them one that is in excellent mechanical condition but I am not bothered if they use it merely as a decoration.
In my home, I have a dedicated room to work on my clocks
Five years ago I attended a workshop on WordPress at our local community college. It taught me more about blogging than I ever knew. The idea of a clock blog intrigued me but it is a lot of work, there is much learning and it was not something I wanted to design from the ground up but WordPress came to the rescue. It has an easy-to-do template approach and the only task was providing the content. So, I began the journey of documenting my horological interests and experiences.
The first few months were discouraging. I had very few views and likes which seem to be the lifeblood of many blogs. There is a strong blogger community out there and once connected to that community you get a feel for those sites that are quite successful and offer terrific content and those that quickly run out of steam.
A computer is not only essential for clockwork but it is the tool I use to compose my blogs
It takes time and patience to build a strong audience. It is also a healthy practice in blogging to follow other blogs and support their content and I am seeing a lot of excellent content.
Clock collecting and repair is a passion but I struggle with my writing and try to envision what my audience would like to see in my posts. Writing is not my forte but years working in academia had taught me to convey my thoughts on paper for my students in an effective way. I took notes on what other bloggers were doing, what made their sites engaging so as to improve my writing.
Contentwise, my intention was never to satisfy expert horologists and those in the clock repair business though I certainly don’t mind if they drop by from time to time, make comments, and offer their perspective. I consider myself a clock repair generalist and judging from my mail I seem to appeal to those who are amateurs like myself and those who have stumbled onto my site looking for advice and guidance on clock collecting and repair.
As a self-taught horologist and over the last 11 years, I have gained knowledge and experience working on a wide variety of mechanical clocks. Cabinet or case restoration is also an interest. I do not operate a clockmaking business and I am not a clock vendor though I will sell the odd clock locally to manage my collection.
I have received many comments. Some offer suggestions and advice on projects I am working on while others are looking for direction on their particular clock problem. I provide whatever assistance I can and within my scope of expertise.
Testing an ogee movement
Stats – the lifeblood of a blog
Like it or not, statistics are the lifeblood of a blog. I receive over 200+ views per day. The top 6 viewers are in the USA, Canada, United Kingdom, Australia, South Africa, and Germany.
Writing articles well in advance and scheduling publication dates help with blog planning particularity when I am vacationing and cannot find the time to write.
Time and strike parts separated
My regular features, Tick Talk Tuesday, Crazy Clock Ads, and What Is This Thing Forlook at the lighter side of clock collecting and repair.
If you are new to my blog, welcome, there is plenty to read. If you are a regular viewer, thank you for supporting me and if you have any ideas for future articles let me know.
Whether you are working on your first clock movement or have repaired dozens, instructional resources, I believe, are essential. There is only so much information gained from a YouTube video (sadly some information is plain wrong) or how-to instructions online and there comes a point in time when you simply must have more detailed information.
An example of a Canadian made gingerbread-style clock
Opinions vary as to what constitutes an essential clock repair library but in this post, I will present those resources for the novice in the clock repair world and for those of you who have taken further steps in your journey.
Most of my work is with American and Canadian clocks, though some are German, some French, and of course, some British. Here are my go-to books starting with the Steven G. Conover series.
My Four Conover books (or manuals) are:
Clock Repair Basics
Striking Clock Repair Guide
Chime Clock Repair
Clock Repair Skills
Conover is very hands-on with plenty of diagrams and detailed step-by-step instructions. He will walk you through the repair of a broad range of clocks while discussing trouble areas, repair how-tos and challenges.
I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon
Next are my Laurie Penman books.
They are;
The Clock Repairer’s Handbook
Common Clock Escapement
While some of his descriptions are quite technical and more targeted towards advanced clock repair he explores the basics as well.
Working with Anniversary or 400-day clocks requires the Horolvar 400-day Clock Repair Guide. 400-day clocks can be quite finicky and you are asking for trouble if you do not have this resource. The perfect companion is Mervyn Passmore’s book entitled Anniversary Clock Adjusting. It is a little short on depth but simple and to the point.
Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide
Next are three books by Philip E. Balcome
The Clock Repair First Reader – Second Steps for the Beginner
The Clock Book– An Overview of Heirloom and Contemporary Clocks in the American Home (not a repair book per se but a guide to identifying clock parts, types, styles, and trends)
The Clock Repair Primer– The Beginners Handbook
Balcome books are easy reads and are targeted for beginners and more advanced repairers as well.
Canadian John Plewes’s Repairing and Restoring Pendulum Clocksis an excellent resource for Canadian homegrown clocks. He explores specific clocks, describes repair challenges as well as provide tips and tricks on a number of clocks from not only Canada but all over the world.
Extreme Restoration By T. E. Temple should be in everyone’s library. Temple explores everything from evaluating a project, clock case refinishing, restoring glass, and tablet renewal. His how-to step-by-step instructions are easy to follow. Although the photos in his book are black and white to reduce cost, a companion website provides colour photos.
Though not directly related to clock repair the Home Machinist’s Handbookby Doug Briney explores bench tools, home lathes, Milling machines, treating and finishing the final product.
Temple and Briney books
I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon. I scour used book stores and flea markets to grab pretty much anything I can find.
Although I do not have any of Tran Duy Ly’sexcellent reference books I am always on the lookout for them. Of course, they are not about clock repair specifically but they are great resources for identifying the many models and types of clocks from dozens of makers over the years.
A typical reference in Tran Duy ly’s Ansonia clock book
Well, there it is, my essential library of clock repair resources. Of course, there are many other resources and if there is anything else you feel should be on this list, let me know.
This post is about a mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Canada and some challenges servicing the movement.
In 2013 we were on a visit to the Thousand Islands and stopped at an antique store in Gananoque, Ontario. As my wife and I were strolling through the store and she noticed this mantel clock made by the Forestville Clock Company of Toronto. Somewhat plain in style it seemed to be in great shape and it was exactly what we were looking for at the time.
History of the Blackforest Clock Co. and Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto
The Blackforest Clock Company of Toronto, Ontario was founded by Leopold and Sara Stossel in 1928. Both clock movements and complete clocks were imported from Germany and sold through department and jewelry stores across Canada. Their son Ed Stossel started working part-time with his parents’ company in the 1930s and later became a full-time employee in the late 1940s.
Some assembly work was carried out in their Wellington Street East factory. Initially imported mantel clock and grandfather clock movements were installed in cases made in Kitchener (home of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company), but later the complete mantel clocks were imported from Germany. This arrangement was interrupted by the Second World War, which also led to a name change to the Forestville Clock Company in 1941. During the war years, the company imported its clock movements from England, the United States, and France. However, starting in the mid-1950s German factories again became the source of most Forestville clocks, with Mauthe being a major supplier.
The Forestville Clock Company was very successful during the middle decades of the twentieth century. Its grandfather clock cases and some of the wall clock cases were made in Canada. Ed Stossel retired in 1979 and unfortunately, the company survived just a few more years without his leadership.
Most Blackforest and Forestville mantel clocks still have their paper labels tacked inside the back door. This one does not.
My Forestville mantel clock
This clock movement and case are imported from Germany in the 1960s. There is a serial number on the backplate but no database exists online to date this clock. I am thinking that the movement is made by Mauthe
The pivots and bushings appear to be in good condition at first inspection. The clock keeps good time and there is a simple speed adjustment on the hairspring escapement to regulate the clock. This mantel clock is handsome, has good lines and reflects the style of the period.
Servicing the movement
After 7 years I have put off servicing the movement far too long. The rack and snail movement is relatively simple to work on with all the adjustment wheels, save the warning pin, on the outside. The mainspring barrels can be removed separately for servicing, common for movements of the 60s,
The hairspring escapement is something I will not attempt to clean. They can be finicky to work on and if the movement has been running beforehand, like this one, there is no pressing need to fool with it. It is well protected by a plastic shroud. Three screws unhook it from the movement.
While there is some wear on the time side I see at least 3 new bushings required, two on the front plate and one on the back.
Hairspring escapement
When working with German and French movements one must always be very careful of the delicate pivots. Normally when I work on these clocks I am aware of how easy it is to bend or break a pivot and this clock was no exception. However, I had the movement apart and was reinstalling the gears to determine bushing wear and went about repositioning the center gear when I noticed its centre cannon front plate pivot had sheared off.
Arrow indicates center wheel with broken pivot (strike barrel removed)
I was not even aware that I was putting undue pressure on the pivot as I was carefully guiding each pivot in place with a pivot locator. However, either I applied too much pressure or it was ready to go because I broke a pivot. To give a sense of how small it is, here it is beside a pair of tweezers.
Broken pivot
My experience with pivot repair is very limited. This is not like a broken or worn pivot on an American clock which is less challenging to repair because they are simply much bigger. This pivot is small, perhaps 0.5mm or so. Although I have bushings that size I do not have pivot wire that small and had to make do with a piece from my assortment of 0.85mm to 1.10mm wire.
Repairing a broken pivot, pivot wire is glued in place and left on the lathe overnight
I centred the arbour with a centring bit and then using a high-speed bit, drilled to about 4 or 5mm into the shaft, enough to anchor the pivot wire. Once the wire was inserted, I used high-strength Permatex Thread Locker Red to secure the wire which takes 24 hours to cure. The next day I installed a bushing in the front plate and put the gears back together to check the action of the new pivot. It is working okay. I was not convinced the repair would work but I will reserve judgment until the other 3 bushings on the time side are installed.
Can’t wait to find out if the repairs are successful? It’s a long wait but on November 25th, I will present the results.
The antique clock and the dilemma of identity. Some may feel this is much ado about nothing but discussion on identity and antique clocks tends to prompt a lot of debate. Let me explain.
Let’s say you are looking for that particular antique clock and you think you have finally found it. The photos look great and the description hits all of the boxes on your list. Let’s assume you found it locally and are meeting the seller soon to close the deal. You arrive, they present the clock and you notice things that are not quite right with the clock. The clock you thought was an authentic antique has been changed over the years and the seller may or may not even be aware of the changes. If the clock has been changed is it an antique in the truest sense of the word. You walk away feeling that too much has been done to the clock and continue your search.
A clock collector might have the opinion that if too much is done to restore a clock it is not fundamentally the same and cannot be considered original even though the new parts were made from the same materials using similar methods when the clock was first made. An antique shopper who knows little about clocks might not be bothered by the changes if the clock “looks” original.
Another might have the opinion that changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original” and therefore more desirable. But has the clock changed its identity during the change process and is it less original if it has undergone restoration?
Here are some examples.
From This.
Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock that some would have thrown out
To this.
Not perfect but saved from the trash heap
From this.
Junghans Crispi wall clock in a parts box
To this.
Junghans Crispi wall clock resurrected from the grave
If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock? It follows that if you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity? This is an example of a thought argument that raises the question of whether an object that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object.
I was working on a clock recently that was said by its owner to be an antique. At first glance, it looked original. The case was a little tired, the movement looked like it was cared for or at least properly serviced at some point in its life. As I began to examine it more closely I discovered several anomalies. Although the movement was the “correct” maker as the case, the movement was taken from a kitchen clock and slightly modified to fit the case. Is this clock still an antique or has it strayed too far away from the definition of an antique because it is a “marriage”
People pay for originality. For my money, I prefer a well-cared-for clock in original condition. I will take a second look if it has been tastefully restored or repaired and know that it is better than having it trashed or perhaps parted out. However, I would not expect to pay as much for a “changed” clock”
If a clock is overly restored how should it be valued? I am not against conservation or restoration but if a clock was two steps away from a garbage can is it less valuable if restored?
There are no clear answers. There will always be buyers who demand originality and those who overlook certain changes. Is this much ado about nothing?
Over the summer I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.
”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”
It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.
Ansonia Syria mantel clock
It was in a well-packed box and in it was a note. The note said, ”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”.
Packaged with care
I opened the box, attached the pendulum, gave both arbours several turns, and started the clock. The fact that it is in running order and striking correctly is certainly a positive sign and testament to the fact that it was serviced in the past. Does it need a simple cleaning and regulating or is something else going on?
Apart from a couple of nicks and scratches, the case looks good. I asked the owner if she would like the case reconditioned and she said she prefers it the way it is. Fair enough.
The Ansonia Syria is an attractive mantel clock and according to the label affixed to the inside of the back access door, it is an 1878 Paris Exposition winner. This is helpful because it allows the clock to be dated. On the movement, there is a patent date of June 18, 1882. It is probably safe to say that it was made within a few years of the 1882 date which puts it in the late -1880s to 1890s. Tran Duy Ly in his book on Ansonia clocks (page 245) lists the year of manufacture as 1894.
The Ansonia Clock Company competed with many popular clock companies of the time; Waterbury, Gilbert, Seth Thomas, E. N. Welch, and New Haven to name a few.
Let’s look into this clock a little further. A few interesting anomalies struck me as I examined the clock case and the movement.
Just above the 12, there is a brass insert that looks like the head of a large pin. It is there to conceal a hole. Although difficult to see in the photo, the letters “S” and “F” appear at either side of the pin. The pin hides the hole for the regulator. Clocks with this type of regulator come with two-sided keys and the smaller end is used to insert into the hole and regulate the clock to slow it down or speed it up. The dial pan is also held in place by common nails.
This movement in this case does not have a regulator mechanism and the mechanism was not removed from the movement. This is a period-correct Ansonia replacement movement that originally came out of a kitchen clock with an alarm. The alarm would have been attached to an activating lever which has been cut off on this movement (see the centre of below shot).
The base of the alarm actuatorStandoffs on the back of the movement
In the above photo, you can see standoffs on the rear plate and clearly standoffs on the front plate. The front standoffs are fashioned from a brass ribbon, bent, drilled out, and cut to fit. The clock is, what we term in the clock business, a marriage. It is always nice to see that it has a movement from the same manufacturer and from the same period as the clock case but a marriage certainly reduces its desirability and makes it difficult to classify it as an antique.
Next, the suspension spring post has been re-soldered, loose perhaps.
And lastly, the hour hand is a replacement. The original hour hand would have been a trident style.
That having been said, the clock has great sentimental value for the owner, and the fact that it is a marriage and has undergone changes over the years may not be a factor.
The movement has been worked on in the past. There are 16 replacement bushings. The bushing work looks professional and after a first look perhaps 2 or 3 require replacement though none on the strike side. Otherwise, the movement was dirty and had thick black-greenish oil residue on several pivots. Not surprising in an antique clock but indicative of some level of wear. The mainsprings were dripping with brown oil, but I have seen a lot worse.
The next step is to service the movement. Part 2, in four days’ time will detail disassembly, bushing work, and general cleaning.
A 400-day clock, also known as a torsion clock, is a type of mechanical clock designed to run for about a year (400 days) on a single winding. It features a unique suspension system, where a rotating pendulum or torsion spring controls the movement. The clock’s long running time is achieved through a very slow, consistent release of energy from the mainspring, and the mechanism is typically enclosed in a glass dome for display. Though not particularly accurate they are fascinating to watch.
Years ago my daughter gave me a Horolovar guide as a Christmas gift. Any horologist will agree that the Horolovar guide is an indispensable guide when working with 400-day clocks.
It is not a manual one opens up regularly but when working on 400-day or anniversary clocks, as they are often called, it is an absolute necessity.
Horolovar 400 Day Clock Repair Guide
The guide was last published in June 1991, and I believe little has changed since then, as I’m unaware of any mechanical anniversary clocks still in production today.
Using the Manual
My daughter was in the midst of moving across the country when she unknowingly overlooked the locking mechanism on the 400-day clock she had received as a gift a few years ago. Upon unpacking it, she found that the suspension spring had snapped. While a snapped suspension spring can’t be reused, it can be easily replaced.
400-day clocks require very specific suspension springs, ones specially designed for each of the many dozens of manufacturers in the past 100 years. Install a suspension spring with an incorrect thickness and length and you are asking for trouble. The correct spring for the make and model of the clock will ensure a smooth-running anniversary clock that will operate for many years.
On the positive side, these clocks run so slowly at 8 beats per minute that it is rare to have worn pivots and bushing holes.
Horolovar templates
Back to the clock in question. It is a Kundo anniversary clock made in the 1950s. According to the Horolovar guide, it is model 1371. Model 1371 tells me that the thickness of the suspension spring is .081 mm or .0032″. I’ve worked on similar models before and had some leftover Horolovar suspension springs of that size.
Kundo 400-day clock, made in West Germany
This is essentially a one-hour job. There are two blocks, one at the top and one at the bottom. Carefully unscrew the blocks, ensuring the spring doesn’t become bent during the process (the small screws can be tricky to loosen). Once the blocks are removed, insert the suspension spring and tighten the screws. After securing the blocks, the manual will indicate where to attach the suspension fork.
Suspension spring installed on a Kern400-day clock
Install the assembly onto the clock by attaching the top block with a screw that threads into a hole and hooking the bottom block onto the pendulum but your work is not finished.
Now comes adjusting the beat and regulating the clock. There is a bracket above the suspension spring assembly that can be turned slightly (it is a friction fit) in either direction to correct the beat. I set the beat by ear and eye but there is a beat setting tool that can be purchased from a clock supplier if you plan to work on a lot of these clocks. In any event, a beat amplifier is an absolute must.
Most 400-day clocks run at 8 beats per minute. Mine runs slightly faster at 9 beats per minute, but this can be adjusted using the dial-type speed regulator at the top of the four weights. While a clock running a bit fast might seem negligible, over the course of a year, it can accumulate into a significant difference of minutes or even hours. As anyone familiar with these clocks will attest, they are not known for their precision in keeping time.
Can you install a new suspension spring without the Horolovar guide? Yes, but you’ll need to research the correct suspension spring thickness for that specific model and use the old assembly as a template.
That said, it’s much easier to simply buy the guide—it eliminates all the guesswork.
The final step in the repair/restoration of my tall case clock are the top finials. This clock had top corner finials at one point in its life. There is evidence that something was there on either side of the crown. I have no idea what they might have looked like but judging from photos of many tall case clocks of the 1850s period they were likely a brass ball type.
My first sight of the clock in a corner of an auction house
It is a classic Scottish tall case design from the 1850s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24. The clock stands approximately 84 inches.
Some time ago I wrote an article on an interesting acquisition, an Ansonia Extra Drop, a true barn find.
This Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock was manufactured in the early 1880s by what was then known as the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company.
It was in pretty rough shape when I bought it and the only significant part missing is the brass dial bezel and a number of minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door (which I made later on).
I was challenged by the whole prospect of putting the many pieces back together and giving what most would consider a throw-away movement, a second chance.
A sad-looking and seized time-only movement
Here is the movement when I found it. What a sight! I thought if I stripped away all the rust and dirt something of value would be salvageable. How many of you would simply toss it out?
After disassembly, scrubbing, cleaning, and one new escape wheel bushing here is the final result.
Cleaned and serviced time only movement
First servicing
The fact that the spring was unwound on the movement when I received it tells me two things. One, the chance that it is “set” is reduced and secondly, having an open coil means more surface rust on the outer part of the spring.
I did my best to remove most of the rust on the mainspring and it went back in the movement. A short while later I discovered that the clock would only run if I wound it about halfway. Otherwise, if wound tight it would not run at all. The surface rust was evidently causing it to stop.
Some clockmakers who after observing any rust on a mainspring would immediately toss it out and argue that the spring is weaker because of the presence of surface rust. In this case, the mainspring is unsightly but has no cracks and has plenty of power.
Other repairers apply a liquid or gel, black tea, or even use electrolytic rust removal to extricate the rust. I know I risk igniting a debate about mainspring replacement and if I were in the business of clock repair, I would certainly toss out the mainspring and pass the cost on to the customer. However, I am hesitant to spend money on a new mainspring for what is essentially a $5.00 barn-find clock and my challenge was to spend as little money as possible on this clock.
During the initial servicing, I managed to get rid of most of the mainspring rust.
Second servicing
Still some problems. After several months I took it apart again, ran the parts through my new ultrasonic cleaner which I did not have at the time of the first servicing. I placed the mainspring in as well. Scotch Brite abrasive pad and WD40 combined are excellent for cleaning a mainspring and I was able to effectively smooth out the rough and rusty outer sections of the mainspring. Again, I checked for cracks and suspicious imperfections and found none. After rubbing the abrasive pad over the mainspring several times I gave it a healthy coating of Keystone mainspring oil. A smoother, rust-free mainspring should function a lot better.
Rather than mount the movement on the test stand, I installed it back into its case but left the dial off so I could monitor it more closely. It runs very well and has run several full 8-day cycles.
Ansonia movement in its case
I realize that I have pushed the limit of this mainspring and the next step is a replacement but we’ll see what happens after the testing period.
Weeks later
The movement continues to run well and now it is time to put everything back together.
The Simcoe is one of 8 Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection. It is very similar in dimensions and style to the Jewel produced around the same time but a few dollars more at the time. The Jewel is an unadorned box while the Simcoe has more bling, a piecrust dial bezel, claw feet on each corner and lions head handles with rings on each side.
Time and strike movement with nickle-plated brass plates
To collectors, it is often referred to as a”Berlin” clock. Although it is impossible to date Pequegnat clocks the name Berlin distinguishes clocks made before 1917 and those made after and up to 1941 when the factory finally shut its doors for good. Clocks made prior to 1917 were inscribed “Berlin”, Ontario on the dial face as Kitchener was known as Berlin until midway through World War I.Kitcheneris the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada). Those made afterwards have only the company name.
I passed by the clock in an antique store in Victoria, British Columbia without realizing that it was a Pequegnat. My wife has an eagle eye, told me to take a second look and I returned. Sure enough, a Pequegnat!
The yellow oak case is in very good condition with one or two small scratches and a chip just above the top of the bezel. The dial pan has had an ugly repair, there are two dabs of solder at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock protruding through the front of the dial.
Piecrust bezel with some ugly repairs
The working movement looked to be in good shape but I expected some wear when I took it apart. After all, it is nearly110 years old.
I don’t know why Pequegnat chose to nickel-plate its movements. Perhaps the look was more exotic but the practical reason was to mitigate the formation of rust, The plating distinguished itself from similar American offerings notably the Seth Thomas number 89. Earlier Berlin movements had nickel-plated brass plates while later Kitchener clocks had steel plates with pressed in brass bushings.
Nickle-plated brass plate, rear
Front plate with duller finish
On to the movement itself. Having a bell for the 1/2 hour strike adds to the complexity of the movement. It does not surprise me that later Pequegnat dispensed with the bell and relied on a passing strike gong. A keyhole regulator adjustment on earlier clocks, another complexity, gave way to an adjustable pendulum.
Key hole regulator adjustment
As expected, there were no surprises. The only evidence that the clock has been worked on is the newer strike side mainspring which is slightly smaller in height than the time side. Regardless, both springs run the full 8-day cycle.
There was no evidence of bushing work in the past and it is no surprise that it required some bushing work. Four were required on the time side and one on the strike side: S2R, T3F, T4F and EW front and back.
Assembly and testing
Now on to assemble and test the movement.
Assembly went well. On the test stand, the movement seemed to be working well but after a few days, I observed that it was not striking every hour. It was working well before I worked on it, so, something is amiss.
I wound the mainsprings tight thinking it was a power issue until I discovered that the helper spring on one of the lifting levers did not have enough tension. In other words, the unlocking lever was not lifting the count lever to prepare for warning. The solution? Tighten the lever helper spring.
In the meantime, I gave the case a good cleaning and one coat of shellac.
After a week it is running well and back on display.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
Gilbert mantel clock
DG writes
“Hello again Ron,
Firstly, many thanks for your advice. It was extremely helpful. The clock is running, striking the right number of times and back in its case, adjusted for beat and now just getting it to keep reasonable time. I made up two pivot locators (a good suggestion) from wire, one heavy-duty to get the centre pillar in place (it always seemed out of alignment!) and another to adjust the pivots. I had trouble in getting some of the pivots to stay in place long enough to close the front and back plates as I went along so resorted to some Blu Tack on the bottom bush to hold them – not very professional but I couldn’t think of anything else. Getting the strike to work as it should was a total challenge and took me a long time but I got there in the end (probably the most satisfying part of the whole business). I am afraid it wasn’t a very professional restoration but I learnt a lot about Gilbert clocks in the process!
The date stamped on the movement is 1914. I’ve attached a photo of the front of the clock. It looks to me as though it had something attached to the bottom, front corners (there are two pin holes each side) which I am guessing were feet. Have you any idea what these might have looked like? Looking at pictures on the Internet there seem to have been slightly different styles as well as gold and a dark antique look, on Gilbert clocks. Any idea where I might find some – eBay?
Once again, many thanks.”
My reply
“It is certainly a good feeling putting a mechanical clock back together and have it in working order. If you can manage a Gilbert clock you can handle just about any American time and strike movement.
which has a piecrust dial instead of the plain dial on your clock. You are correct. It would have had feet at one time. If one went missing I suspect they were all discarded.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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