This is my first experience with a tall case clock from the 1850s and my first venture into English bell strike movement servicing.
Let me explain. Although the case was made in Scotland, the movement, dial and weights are all from Birmingham, England made at or before 1850. The clock was in fair condition when I bought it from an estate auction early in 2020, though I knew almost immediately that structural repairs and cosmetic fixes were necessary.
In this Part I, I will address case age cracks, a cracked backboard and attaching the backboard to the waist.
In Part II, I will continue with new door pins, replacing a missing right rear foot, cleaning the case, overall finishing & attending to various trim pieces.
Although modern adhesives were used for the main structural repairs, some trim pieces were attached using traditional hot hide glue
The first question is how to address present structural issues. Should I utilize materials and techniques that would have been available at the time or select a modern method that would ensure that the part(s) will continue to provide strength, rigidity and service for many years to come? I used both approaches and my apologies to the purists.
As found, standing in a corner of the auction hall
Back in December 2019, I wrote about the challenges of adjusting the strike side of this attractive parlour clock, a Waterbury York, circa 1900. Despite many attempts the strike side refused to work. Though I was close to a solution but I did not realize it at the time. I put it aside to think about it.
Attempt #2. Will I be successful? Read on.
A shot of the clock the day I brought it home.
The time side functioned perfectly but the strike side did not run at all when I first brought the clock home. Typically a good cleaning or a simple lever adjustment is all that is required though once I opened the movement up I saw it true colours. I detailed these surprises in my December post.
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I receive letters from all over the world asking my advice on a number of clock issues such as how a particular component of a mechanical clock should work, a clock repair challenge, how to address a particular repair or more basic things such as how to find a winding key that fits, how to wind a clock or set a clock in beat.
As comedian Dean Martin once said, “Keep those cards and letters coming”
In the past 4 years, I have authored over 400 articles that have covered a number of areas such as clock history, clock repair challenges and general clock articles but rather than direct questioners to use the search box (Search for clock articles using keywords), located to the right on the main page, I simply answer the question. It usually prompts a dialogue with more questions.
Veneering a cornice on a Seth Thomas shelf clock
Please drop me a line concerning your clock issue or give the search box a try; you might find what you need. One keyword should help in your search.
In-painting a clock dial
As American comedian and actor Dean Martin once said, “Keep those cards and letters coming”.
In light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19
Tick Talk Tuesday #24 – key required for family clock.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
DM from Colorado writes.
“Dear Ron,
I hope you can help me. I have become in possession of our old family clock that my great grandfather brought for the old farmhouse. The clock is working but I do not have a key. I was hoping that you could sell me the right key to fit the clock. What I can read from the back sticker is ” Regulator H” and there may be another letter after that. “The sessions clock company of Forestville Connecticut.” Attached is the photo, any help would be great.
In light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19
Original time and strike 30 hour movement
The movement in this Canada Clock Co. time and (hour) strike cottage clock from the late 1880s is a mess but fixable. Some past repairs are acceptable while other leave a lot to be desired.
I’ll begin with the issues. “Repaired” mainsprings, nuts on a copper wire fashioned as a gong hammer and string “helping” the helper springs are things you really don’t want to see on a movement. The time side runs reasonably well but the strike side does not function, likely the result of fiddling with levers too many times.
clever, but dangerosu way of repairing the mainspringThe second mainspring, another “iffy” repairHome-made copper wire and two nuts serve as the gongString used to connect a broken helper spring
In the clock business you must always expect the unexpected. While I awaited parts, I went about cleaning the parts and bushing work .
This is perhaps the most frustrating 30-hour movement I have ever worked on
The parts arrived and included a new gong hammer, two new mainsprings and brass wire for new helper springs.
New 30 hour mainspringNew hammer gong and lever with helper springs installed
I began by installing the new hammer. Using my mini lathe I drilled a new access hole in the hammer arbour. I measured the diameter of the hammer rod and used a HSS bit to drill through the centre of the arbour. It was a reasonably good fit but to ensure a permanent hold I applied a drop of thread-locker.
The levers look like a twisting mess but there is a logic to the arrangement
This is the first 30-hour shelf clock I have worked on without a discernible warning action and it made for tricky lever positioning. Perhaps there is warning but I just could not see it. Though the levers look like a twisted mess there must be some logic to the arrangement.
The above photo shows the left side lifting lever that must be precisely adjusted and curved for the centre cam to push the drop lever over the count wheel cam to actuate the strike. The count lever blade must also line up exactly with the centre of the count wheel and precisely in the middle of the deep slot. As far as I can determine the lifting lever is the only one of the two levers that require a helper spring but I will know more after further testing.
All in all, this is one of the most frustrating 30-hour movements I have ever worked on. The movement was taken apart several times for various adjustments. I worked at for a while, left it, thought about the next steps but despite my best efforts, that strike side continues to elude me. The time side, however, works perfectly.
Some day I will have it working but for now it is on display.
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In this article, I will describe the steps taken to inpaint and restore the dial of an Arthur Pequegnat time and strike gingerbread clock.
But first, what is inpainting? And what does it have to do with clock dials?
Inpainting is a dial restoration or conservation process where damaged, deteriorating, or missing parts of a dial are filled in to present a complete image.
And what does the term dial restoration mean?
Dial restoration includes adhering loose flakes, filling areas of loss, cleaning, colour matching, repairing graphics, inpainting of decorative artwork and sealing. Some dials are easier to work on than others but generally speaking American antique clocks dials are good candidates. Dial inpainting can be hit and miss, and the final results can range from fair to excellent.
Here is an earlier project. The before photo shows the significant losses on the dial of an 1850s Seth Thomas column and cornice clock.
Before inpainting
And, after inpainting. In this example, restoring the floral spandrels and the chapter ring was the most challenging part of the project.
Working on a clock dial
I was pleased with the final result though these dials are among the easiest to work on.
After: Seth Thomas dial, column and cornice clock
Now let’s turn to a circa 1918 Arthur Pequegnat Canuck time and strike gingerbread clock. There was considerable paint loss, numerals in a script that is a challenge to reproduce and a chapter ring consisting of small dashes with a 4-dot pattern every 5 minutes. To make matters worse, a previous owner had made an attempt to paint in larger sections of the dial.
Given its poor condition, I was initially tempted to buy a replacement dial; $50.00 for paper-on-tin and $4.00 for a paper dial plus tax and shipping. However, I decided to attempt inpainting.
My supplies, which I have on-hand, consisted of:
Level 3 – 10/0 spotter artist’s paintbrush
#2 artist’s paintbrush
A selection of satin finish water-based acrylic paints; white, yellow, red, and blue
Black paint for numerals
Pitt artist’s pen, fine tip
Pencil eraser
Toothpicks for mixing paint
Q-Tips to remove over painted areas and polish brass bezel
Woodblock
Supplies
Occasionally I use a pencil eraser to remove dirt around the centre and winding arbour hole holes. It is very effective at removing years of dirt and grime.
White is the base paint. Others colours are mixed to replicate the aged finish. There is no magic to this. It takes trial and error to match the dial colour which had yellowed considerably over the years. An exact match is more luck than skill and there are a thousand shades of off-white. I suggest painting in warm light or natural light for best results. Arriving as close as possible to the aged finish was my objective.
The numbers were in reasonably good shape and it takes a steady hand to fill in the missing sections especially the dashes on the chapter ring. For very thin lines, I use a black artist’s pen with a fine tip.
Before and after
Of course, upon close examination, you can see the infilled areas and the touched-up numbers but from average viewing distance, it is difficult to tell.
About 1/2 meter away (the case had been cleaned earlier).
While I was working in the dial I cleaned the brass bezel with Q-Tips and Brasso.
Before (inset) and after
There are some dials I leave as-is since the age and patina of the dial is an important part of the character of the clock but if it is too far gone, as in these examples, inpainting is certainly an option.
All in all a very satisfying project. Now on to servicing the movement.
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There are a fair number of Canadian clock enthusiasts that have various sized collections of Pequegnat clocks. Skip Kerr‘s extensive collection immediately comes to mind.
Although my collection is modest by comparison with just eight Arthur Pequegnat Canadian-made clocks they cover a range of models from kitchen to wall clocks.
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company was in business in Berlin, later renamed, Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to about 1941. Pequegnat clocks are well known among Canadian Clock collectors. Many are still running today and they can be easily found on local and national online for-sale sites and you might even find them on the northern border states of the US.
Here they are; I will let the captioned photos speak for themselves.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock, otherwise known as the “Fan top”Arthur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock (variant with larger dial)Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock, Berlin periodArthur Pequegnat Canadian Time (time-only) wall clockArthur Pequegnat Brandon (second version)Arthur Pequegnat Canuck kitchen clock (otherwise known as a gingerbread clock)Arthur Pequegnat Kitchen clock, Maple Leaf, otherwise known among collectors as the “pointed top”Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, double spring time-only 15-day clock, post-Berlin (after 1917)
My journey goes on as I continue to purchase Pequegnat clocks adding them to my collection. I have yet to secure a tambour style clock and a Regulator #1 is certainly on the top of my list.
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I have a total of eight Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection. The newest, an Arthur Pequegnat Canuck is not exactly my favorite though it is not unattractive for a gingerbread clock. The company made a range of kitchen clocks but I have seen very few in the true gingerbread style, such as this one.
The clock runs well though it will certainly need servicing
Few are offered on online for-sale sites so it is quite possible that not many of them have survived over the years. Collectors would often pass them up as most other Pequegnat clocks are considered more desirable and valuable.
Hi readers, in light of current world events the antiquevintageclock.com family wish to convey our sympathy and condolences to those effected by Covid 19
Dating a clock can be a challenge and often an estimate within a range of dates is the best that can be accomplished. Dating some clocks can be relatively easy as in the case of this Sessions Beveled Number 2 tambour style time and strike. Inside the back access door, it is stamped Sept 1927, the date of manufacture.
Further research about the clockmaker, the movement design and the label will reveal a date within a narrow range
Inside access door of Sessions tambour clockSessions Beveled No. 2
This Gilbert time and strike movement has a die-stamped year but the month of manufacture is unknown. Other markings in the case might narrow it down.
Gilbert movement made in 1906
Research concerning the maker, the clock design, the model name or number and the label may reveal the exact date or something within a narrow range of years. Books on the identification of American clocks such as those by Tran Duy Lycan be very helpful.
Let’s look at this Elisha Manross Gothic Steeple clock.
Elisha Manross (1792-1856) was an important pioneer of the Connecticut clock and made a variety of clock styles, one of which is the gothic steeple pictured below.
Elisha Manross Gothic Steeple clock. Hands are incorrect; it would have had spade hour and spear minute hands
Although Elisha Manross had been active in Bristol clock-making since 1812 and earlier he shows in the Bristol tax records as making clocks from 1842-1851. His business was dissolved in 1854 and the factory was purchased in 1855 by E.N. Welch.
Manross made two steeple clocks. One is 20″ high and 10″ wide, the other is 19 1/2 inches high by 9 1/2 inches wide. The larger case would have made for other labels but the smaller size such as this one was manufactured in the Manross factory.
A very dirty Elisha Manross 30 hour movement, just out of the case
This 30-hour clock by Elisha Manross has some distinctive features that help in its dating. Let’s narrow down the date by looking at the design of the movement and case. Three features make this clock interesting. One, it has very rare brass mainsprings; two, the count-wheel is located in the middle on the backplate and three, the veneer on the front columns and door is in a vertical orientation.
Brass mainsprings
Brass mainsprings were invented, patented and first used in 1836 by Joseph Shaylor Ives. Brass was cheaper and more accessible than steel in the mid-1830s and 1840s. Silas B. Terry developed steel springs for clock use in the Bristol area circa 1847, and as steel improved and became cheaper, brass springs quickly disappeared.
In the history of the American clockmaking, brass mainsprings had a very short life, between 1836 and 1850. The brass mainsprings on this movement have survived for a very long time and most clocks of this age have had replacement steel mainsprings.
Count-wheel
Many American time and strike movements have the count wheel located on the left side of the front plate just above the mainspring (or winding arbour for a weight-driven clock). Placing the count wheel in the rear of this movement adds complexity to the lever arrangement. Also absent is a strike-side cam wheel typically found on later American time and strike movements.
Manross backplate showing location of count-wheel
Veneer and vertical orientation
Exotic woods were used to cover the pine case. Elisha Manross clocks were either clad in Rosewood veneer or Mahogany. Manross clocks were produced with the Mahogany veneer in a vertical orientation, such as this clock, and Rosewood veneer in a horizontal orientation. American clockmakers did not normally orient the veneer in this manner.
Left front column
Dating this clock – let’s see what the data tells us
Records also show that steeple cases were made by Manross between 1847 and 1853. The label on the clock is in remarkable condition for a 168-year-old clock and is extremely helpful in dating this clock. On the back of the door, the left side of the upper tablet is the inscription 8/43, not once but twice. Is this the date the case was made? The door is clearly original to the case since it has the same vertical orientation as the veneer.
Records also show the sale of 705 cases (unknown as to type) to “E. Manross” during the months July-November, 1843. It is very possible the case was constructed in 1843, stored until later when the movements were placed in the case and readied for sale.
The date of August 1843 is inconsistent with the label, located on the inside backboard, which was printed by Elihu Geer at his shop on 10 State Street, Hartford Conn on or about 1850. The label was likely added to the case just prior to the sale of the clock.
We can conclude that the clock was made no earlier than 1843 and no later than 1850 and we can safely date this clock within a 5-7 year period.
Dating aside, it is truly remarkable that a mechanical device that is 173 years old is still operating to this day.
The disassembly of an antique tall case clock need not be a daunting task. When I bought this clock at auction at the beginning of 2020 I put into practice some of the things I had learned when transporting a Ridgeway grandfather clock in 2013. My advice is to work slowly and methodically but think about what you are doing at each step of the process.
Why disassemble? A move across town, across the country, or even redecorating are three of many reasons. Even if you wish to move the clock from one area of your home to another disassembly is required. Yes, moving it a few inches requires disassembly.
Scottish tall case clock from the 1850s
An antique tall case clock, such as this weight-driven Scottish tall case clock from the 1850s with an English brass bell strike, can be easily disassembled by one person. In this blog, I will walk you through the steps required to safely disassemble an antique tall case clock.
Similar American tall case clocks from the same period are disassembled in the same manner.
While waiting for movement parts I continued to work on the case of this antique Canadian cottage clock from the mid 1880s. The dial needs attention and in this article I will describe the procedures for in-painting the numerals and decorative elements.
Decorative hand-painted antique dials need attention from time to time. Through environment and use they become victims of wear and neglect. Stabilizing and restoring dials maintains the value of the clock. In-painting involves filling areas of loss, cleaning, colour matching, repairing graphics and decorative art work.
The Canada Clock Co.
The Canada Clock Company in its three iterations made clocks in Ontario, Canada between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, the Hamilton Clock Co. and then Canada Clock Co. (redux) struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. Ultimately their efforts failed. Nonetheless, there are plenty of fine examples that have survived to this day.
I found this interesting example in an antique shop in downtown Truro, Nova Scotia. The model is called Hamilton Cottage Extra.
First look
This is the dial when I first saw it. It is unsightly and distracting. Severe flaking over a good portion of the dial surface plus an attempt to repaint the numbers by a past owner presented a challenge for restoration.
For the past several years my wife and I have been searching for an authentic antique tall case clock. I finally found one at an estate auction an hour down the road from where I live and seized the opportunity to purchase a clock I knew practically nothing about. In this blog article, I will describe first impressions and the results of my preliminary research.
I have had only one tall clock in my collection, a Ridgeway Westminster chime clock from the mid-1990s. It is stately with handsome lines but it is a modern clock with a contemporary German-made movement and certainly not an antique.
Servicing this clock from the Canada Clock Company was a real challenge as I encountered many issues that conspired to slow my progress.
I found this clock in an antique shop in downtown Truro, Nova Scotia at basically a give-away price. The seller knew nothing about the Canada Clock Co. and that was fine with me.
So, what happens when amateurs and backyard mechanics get their hands on a movement. Read on.
But first, a little about the short-lived Canada Clock Co.
Canada Clock Co Hamilton Cottage Extra
The Canada Clock Company in its three iterations made clocks in Ontario, Canada between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, the Hamilton Clock Co. and then Canada Clock Co. (redux) struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. Ultimately their efforts failed. Nonetheless, there are a number of fine examples that have survived to this day
Description
The clock is a 30-hour time and strike movement on a bell. It is the “Hamilton Cottage Extra”, one of the least expensive in their line of cottage clocks.
The label is in fair condition but identifies the model name and yes I paid far less than the sticker price
The case, which is in fair condition, reflects the age of the clock, grimy with numerous chips and scuff marks. Constructed of pine with a walnut stain finish the case has a minimum of decorative features and reflects the muted Victorian style of the times. The label is in fair condition and there is a stamp on the top of the label which says, “…A Hill &Co.”.
The lower part of the tablet has an etched glass floral design common on Canada Clock Company clocks. The dial face is flaked in places, has been “touched up” and will need attention.
The Maltese hands are original.
Original time and strike 30-hour movement
I tested the movement while in the case. The time side runs with a little encouragement while the strike side has the typical run-on strike when things fall out of adjustment.
Assessment of the Movement
When I disassembled the movement there were a few unexpected surprises. I now have answers for a movement that is running poorly.
Strike side mainspring riveted together
Both mainsprings had been modified, a very old repair. I try not to be judgemental when I see this and respect the folks that made every effort to keep their clocks running as best they could often with limited means. However, these look dangerous and must be replaced.
Time side mainspring with a nail holding parts of the mainspring together
Now on to other issues.
Levers bent in all directions
This is the strike side. What are the correct positions for the levers? Bent so many times it will take trial and error to find precisely where the levers should go.
The “hammer”
The hammer is actually a copper wire wound around 2 nuts and it is loose in the arbour.
Helper “string” or helper spring
There is enough helper spring to wrap around the pillar but someone thought the string was necessary. It will be replaced with a new spring.
Nuts for a hammer and the bell has been repositioned
While the bell may be original, Judging from the number of holes, it has been relocated and raised to work with the home-made hammer.
The movement is a disappointing mess but not unfixable. In the clock business, you must expect the unexpected. In the meantime, I can clean the parts and perform pivot polishing and bushing work while I await parts.
I am determined to get this clock running so, stay tuned for the movement servicing and dial painting!
Why does a mechanical clock movement require servicing? The answer is fairly straight forward.
Keeping your clock in good running condition requires maintaining the movement’s working parts and maintaining the working parts reduces wear. Ideally, most clocks should be serviced every three to five years to maximize longevity and ensure proper functioning.
This article describes the 7 steps that I typically follow when servicing an antique or vintage clock movement. A common American 8-day time and strike, pendulum-driven movement is used as an example.
Let me begin by saying that I love antique stores and I spend a considerable amount of time in them. While I don’t always buy, if I see something I try to get a fair price. Browsing through the aisles looking for that unique, one of a kind item can be a very satisfying experience.
I was in a local antique shop the other day and I was impressed at the number of antique clocks offered for sale but the prices were, in my view, way out of line.
For example, a Gilbert Admiral time-only wall clock, that I bought in the fall of 2019 for a fraction of the $300 the store wanted was missing its decorative pendulum and was not running. $150 is a fair price with the original pendulum but at $300 it will stay on the wall of this shop for a long time. So, naturally, I passed on it.
This rather plain, box-like 8-day hour strike Rosewood veneered shelf clock is up for servicing. This is Part II of a two-part series. Go to Part I to read my notes and observations while disassembling the movement and the initial steps required to bring the clock to running condition.
The movement is in reasonably good condition but not without issues. It was running prior to cleaning (though not a full 8-day cycle) so I did not expect any further running issues after servicing and my principal goal was that it would run the full 8-day cycle.
I always take a number of photographs when I disassemble a movement. It is much easier than making diagrams and notes and best for future reference particularly when photos are archived.
This rather plain, box-like 8-day hour strike shelf clock is up for servicing. I wrote about first impressions in Sept 2019 and said at that time that the clock is in reasonably good condition, runs well, but needs a good cleaning.
Among the most respected and prolific American clockmakers is the Seth Thomas Clock Co. of America. Every collector I know has at least one Seth Thomas clock in their collection.
My modest collection consists of six Seth Thomas clocks representing several styles, all unique and from the period 1865 to 1930.
This is a Seth Thomas time and hour strike large round top (model name or number unknown) made in the 1870s. For first impressions of this clock, go here.
Seth Thomas round top shelf clock, veneer missing top left of the door frame
This shelf clock was purchased at the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors conference in Springfield Ma. in June of 2019.
The clock case is in such remarkable condition it would be a shame to ignore that one small blemish and once you see the missing veneer the eye is always drawn to it
The clock measures 15 inches in height, 10 inches wide at the base and 4 inches deep. The attractive Rosewood veneered case has a mirrored rectangular lower tablet. The grain of the Brazilian Rosewood is bold and nicely textured. However, a sliver of the veneer is missing between the 9 and 12 o’clock position of the dial bezel which, in my view, is repairable. My wife did not notice this until I pointed it out.
A previous owner attempted to hide the missing veneer by tinting the exposed area.
If you live in the Maritimes provinces of Canada and are keenly interested in vintage and antique clock and watch collecting and repair this will be of interest to you.
On November 2-3, 2019 the Maritime Association of Watch and Clock Collectors held its inaugural meeting. Five members came together from various parts of the Maritimes to meet in Prince Edward Island (Canada) to form a club of like-minded individuals.
After months of planning and discussions in preparation for the inaugural 2-day meeting the response from all present was very positive
Although the skill level varied among participants, all who attended have a keen interest in horology and are willing to share their knowledge and experiences with others.
A educational component of the meeting, a lesson in bushing
After months of planning and discussions in preparation for the inaugural 2-day meeting the response from all present was very positive.
Demonstration of the cleaning of a mainspring
The goal of this new group is to gather individuals from across the Maritime provinces (PEI, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia) to share experiences, mentor each other, learn new techniques, provide opportunities to acquire clocks and watches and foster social interaction.
Inspecting an antique pocket watch
During our first meeting we discussed the name of the new association. We also discussed the format of our meetings, the venue, whether it be in one location or throughout the Maritimes, the frequency of meetings, outreach through social media, resource books, the training component within our meetings and what we can offer to each other both inside and outside our regular meetings.
A collection of clock movements in need of repair
We agreed that the new organization should be called MAWCC, the Maritime Association of Watch and Clock collectors. We agreed to no less than 2 meetings per year but that sub-groups would meet more frequently. At this point in time we are not affiliated with the NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors).
If you are from the Maritime region of Canada (Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia) and you have a keen interest or wish to advance your skills in horology and would like to connect with like-minded individuals feel free to email me at ronjoiner@gmail.com.
I am a big fan of weight driven clocks and will add them to my collection when time, opportunity and finances allow.
There are generally 2 categories of motive power for mechanical clocks. The energy required to run a clock is provided either by a spring or a weight. Most of my collection is spring-driven but 10 clocks are driven by weights and they represent the broad period from 1835 to 1996.
here are some interesting facts about my ten weight driven clocks:
Eight are American,
Two are Austro-German,
Three are Ogee style,
Five are thirty-hour or one-day,
Two are column style
One is woodworks, and
Three have deadbeat escapements with maintaining power
Rather than describe each one I will let the photos (with captions) speak for themselves.
Every now and then a clock is temperamental. I am not talking about the signs of wear that will certainly stop a clock but occasionally it is serviced, everything looks good but it is downright cantankerous. Anyone who has 400-day anniversary clocks knows exactly what I mean. Are clocks moody?
I relocated my unmarked Vienna Regulator one-weight (time-only) wall clock from one room to another and it decided to stop, just like that! A push of the pendulum and 10 minutes or two hours later, it stops. Normally when a clock is moved and level is confirmed (and the movement in beat) it happily ticks along but not this time. Is my Vienna Regulator moody?
It is one of my favourite clocks and I wanted it to run.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock
Some might call it a mini Vienna Regulator others might call it just small. It is 34 inches long 4.75 inches deep and 11 inches at the widest point and 8.5 inches at the waist. Time-only Vienna Regulators are my absolute favourite. They are simple andusually very reliable.
This interesting Rosewood veneered round top, mirrored tablet shelf clock appears to be a Jerome in name only. It is not a fake or marriage but a curious product of early to mid-1870s marketing.
But first, a little Jerome history.
Jerome & Co. shelf clock
One might be tempted to assume that this clock is associated with Chauncey Jerome, one of America’s most noted clockmakers who died in 1868.
Chauncey was well out of the clock business at the time of his death which poses two possibilities; 1) the Jerome in this instance may be Samuel B. Jerome of New Haven, Connecticut or 2) it is the New Haven Clock Company that was selling clocks using the trade name Jerome & Co. It would seem that New Haven and S.B. Jerome would be in conflict with each other. It’s all a bit confusing and perhaps more research is need to find those answers. In any event the Jerome name had strong marketing power.
How you ever wondered what keeps antique mechanical clocks going? It’s a miracle they work at all when they are as worn as this one.
Jerome & Co. time and strike movement with front plate removed, minus the escape wheel
Most old clocks I come across have common issues, dirty, oily movements and worn pivot holes here and there. Generally, all they need is a bushing or two and a good cleaning to put right.
Last week I wrote about a Jerome & Co. time and strike mantel clock I bought in Springfield Mass. during the annual convention of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors in June 2019. However, no amount of encouragement would make it run reliably.
This attractive parlour clock, a Waterbury York, circa 1900, was bought at auction in the spring of 2019. Though inexpensive it is certainly worth servicing which is the subject of this article.
The time side was running but the strike side did not function at all. Usually these sorts of problems amount to simple lever adjustment issues but there were other surprises awaiting me.
The auction tag is still on the clock, the day I bought it
The Waterbury Clock Company was incorporated in the city of Waterbury, Connecticut, on March 5, 1857. Until the Great Depression, Waterbury had been quite prosperous, but like so many companies, most of the profits lined the pockets of its Directors instead of being reinvested in new equipment and updated facilities. In 1932 the company was bought and re-organized under the name Ingersoll-Waterbury.and in later years the company morphed into the Timex Corporation. If you peruse the Timex site today you will see a line of Timex watches called the Waterbury collection.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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