Junghans bracket clock – servicing the movement

Junghans bracket style clock, tilted to adjust the beat

I posted the first look at this clock a while back.

The Regency style veneered mahogany case of this Junghans time and strike bracket clock is in reasonably good shape save for a small piece of veneer missing on the front right corner and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place.

The movement ran briefly after I got it home but after a short while refused to run despite adjustments. The seller says he had had the clock for two years and never had it running so I was sure it needed a good cleaning. In any event, my plan was to service the movement.

The movement is has a maker’s mark with B11 just below it. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.

Removing the movement

To remove the movement remove the hands, first the minute and then the hour hand. Open the rear access door to release two thumbscrews screws underneath the movement seat board. Move the gong assembly aside (or take it out completely by releasing a screw on the bottom of the case) and remove the works.

Junghans time and strike movement, B11 is under the Junghans trademark

Assessing the movement

This is a well-made movement. Early Junghans movements were robust and strong runners. I have heard stories of Junghans clocks from this era running well despite being very worn. Junghans’s movements are a cut above Mauthe, Hermle, HAC, and other mass-produced German clocks made during this period, in my view. The movement exudes quality with solid front and back plates though lantern pinions are favoured over cut pinions.

The movement has been serviced at least once, so far as I can determine. There is an “S” mark on the strike side barrel cap, helpful when returning the barrels to their correct location. I did not measure the mainsprings but the strike side spring is notably longer than the time side. There are two possible reasons, one that the strike side mainspring was replaced at some point in the clock’s life, or two, there is more load on the strike side requiring a stronger spring.

The mainsprings are in good condition and there is plenty of power though there is more oil than necessary within the barrels. After assessing the movement I could see that there had been no significant repairs in the past. The crutch has been bent in several places in an attempt to adjust the beat but otherwise, everything looks reasonably good for the age of the clock.

Disassembly

Separating the plates was more difficult than it should have been. I had to remove all four pillars (secured by screws on both ends) to determine what was sticking. I discovered that the motion works centre arbour pivot was “stuck” in the backplate. By “stuck” I mean that although the wheel was moving freely the end of the pivot had been flattened. Why I don’t know. Had the pivot been punched in an attempt to enlarge it, had someone hammered the pivot end for whatever reason, had the pivot been replaced or it is possible that the plates had never been separated and that is how it came from the factory? Once the pivot was pried from the plate I rounded the end with a file and it now fits perfectly.

Junghans B11 movement — I use a screwdriver to point out any washer I find on a movement

All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner which removed a considerable amount of accumulated grime. As always the ultrasonic cleaner does a great job with lantern pinions and the lantern pinions, on all 6 wheels, are in excellent condition.

There has been no bushing work done on the movement. The only punch mark I observed was just below the escape wheel outside the plate where an attempt was made to close the hole.

To bush or not to bush

After cleaning the movement, pegging the holes, and polishing the pivots the next step is deciding whether or not to bush the movement.

I could see that some bushings may be required, 4 on the backplate where there is more load on the wheels and 2 on the front plate for a total of 6, 2 on the strike side, and 4 on the time side but I will make a final decision once I have checked the entire movement further.

I installed all the wheels and checked for pivot movement within their respective pivot holes. The wear was not excessive. However, after much thought, I decided there is enough lateral movement of the pivots in their holes to affect its running. Besides, I wanted to place the clock in a prominent area of the house and by addressing wear issues now the clock would run well for some time without another servicing.

Seven bushings were installed, 3 on the time side, and 4 on the strike side. The largest one, which I did not include in my initial assessment, was a 4.5mm (OD) bushing for the count wheel.

Junghans front plate count wheel bushing — Junghans front plate new count wheel bushing

Re-assembly and testing

Once all the pivot work is complete and the holes pegged out again it is time for re-assembly. Setting up the strike side of the count wheel strike means ensuring that the warning pin is sitting just off the locking lever (12 o’clock position), the drop lever is sitting on the flat section of the cam wheel, and the count lever is in one of the deep slots of the count wheel.

Testing the Junghans movement; beat amplifier attached

Only this time it was not all roses. The strike train consistently missed the half-hour strike because the count lever would drop in the middle part, not the beginning of the deep slot, occasionally missing the half-hour strike. Plus, the count lever did not completely rest on the cam. I cannot remember spending as much time correcting the strike side on a German movement as I did on this one. On one occasion I had everything together to discover that the paddle was hanging off one of the points of the star wheel. Having too much load at the beginning of the strike either will stop the strike or add one more strike to the indicated hour.

I must have taken the movement apart 5 times, and of course, each time I reassembled the movement I was wary of damaging those tiny pivots. Eventually, everything worked out. Sometimes when working with German countwheel strikes everything falls into place the first time. Not so much this time.

While on the workbench, I replaced the old tired suspension spring with a new one.

Junghans clock dial numbers have been retouched

So, after a long-overdue cleaning and a few new bushings, the movement is oiled and is on the test stand. After several small adjustments to the beat, it is now running and striking as it should.

Now to see how we can address a grimy silvered dial. Join me in a couple of weeks as I take you through cleaning the dial face.

December 12, 2020

Junghans bracket clock – first look

I found this German mantel clock on a local online buy and sell site. The seller had two clocks, one, a generic German-made Westminster chime and this, a Junghans bracket-style clock. I knew right away that this was the better deal. It appeared to be a higher quality clock compared to the other one. I offered a slightly lower price and the seller quickly accepted. He said he never had it running in the two years he owned it and added, “I got to get rid of it, I’m moving”.

During my search to find the model name or number I came across one listed on eBay at the time of writing and two others while browsing similar auction sites. None had the model name or number but prices are all over the map, ranging from $50 to $300. I still do not know the model name or number.

Although it has a carrying handle on the domed top and would be termed a bracket clock, let’s just call it a rather plain-looking mantel clock with a handle. When I envision a classic bracket clock I picture a clock with verge escapement, subsidiary dials over a signed dial housed in a gaudy case. Let’s call this a poor relation.

Junghans clock side view, not cleaned yet

The Regency style veneered mahogany case is in reasonably good condition save for a small piece of veneer missing on the bottom side front and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place. It has not been cleaned in ages and scrubbing with soap and water removed a considerable amount of built-up dirt revealing a very attractive case.

The silvered dial shows some aging consistent with wear and caused when advancing the hands many times combined with the simple act of winding the movement arbors. The hands are original judging from other clocks like it. I may touch up the numbers and the hands in addition to giving the dial a cleaning to spruce things up a bit but we’ll see when I look at it further.

The dial catch, back access catch, and hinges work well. These often break from constant use.

Judging from scratch marks on the backplate, the movement has been worked on in the past. I won’t know the extent or quality of past servicing until I take the movement out of its case and examine it more closely. The movement has a maker’s stamp with B11 just below the mark. This refers to the approximate date of manufacture, the latter part of 1911.

When I brought it home the clock ran briefly, stopped, and failed to proceed. It will need a thorough servicing and a few adjustments to get it running again.

November 29, 2020

Choosing a mechanical clock as a gift

It is that time of the year when you begin searching for that unique gift. Of course, there are a multitude of choices but have you considered a mechanical clock as a gift? Let me provide you with a few tips.

Mechanical clocks harken back to the old days when life was simpler; no mobile telephones, no internet, and no streaming TV. Ah, those were the days!

Okay, so you are reasonably sure that a mechanical clock would be appreciated by the receiver. What to buy? There are a plethora of choices out there and certainly, clocks that would fit every budget from the simple and cheap American kitchen clock to a rare 19th century Boulle figural French mantel clock. Let me attempt to narrow your choices, not with a specific clock but a buying strategy.

Mechanical clocks appeal to those who enjoy the sound, the strike of a clock, or those who merely appreciate it as part of their decor. These factors will influence your choice as a gift.

Here are two examples of clocks I have gifted to my family. My son and his partner have a German Schatz W3 bracket clock in a custom case. It is in excellent mechanical in running condition but it stays quiet on their shelf. Nevertheless, it is the centrepiece for their fireplace mantel.

My daughter has a Sessions Raven 8-day mantel clock which sits atop a bookcase in their family room. It only runs when my wife and I visit.

But they love their clocks.

The following two categories might assist you in your decision to buy a clock for your loved one, a friend, or a business associate.

Category 1 – Those recipients who appreciate a running clock

You will want to avoid a non-working clock. Unless you have the skills in clock repair or know someone who can work on it, it is best to steer away from those. Many sellers use the phrase, “may need some adjustment” which is almost always a red flag for a clock that has issues. These are the cheapest clocks, and for good reason, they are simply worn out.

You may also get lucky and find that special mechanical clock that has been recently serviced and is in good running order but you will pay more because the seller is interested in recouping their investment in the clock.

Buying a clock from a reputable clock repair retailer is a good bet if the clock has been serviced and a warranty is provided but expect to pay significantly more.

Otherwise, there are many buy and sell online sites. I would shop locally and avoid eBay or other online auction sites. Auction sites are a real crapshoot complicated by high shipping costs and the risk that the clock might arrive broken. Yes, that has happened to me!

Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, 15-day, double spring time-only

The sound of a ticking and striking clock in a room is very soothing for some. For others., not so much

Most clocks are 8-day running which means that they must be wound once per week. There are some quality 15-day and 30-day clocks but they are few and far between.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models — Daniel Dakota wall clock, made in China

Of the 30-day clocks avoid anything made in China. While 1-day clocks such as Cuckoo clocks and antique Ogees are plentiful and look terrific, winding a clock every day wears thin after a while.

George H Clark 30-hour ogee clock — George H Clark 30-hour or 1-day ogee clock

Check out this post on how to buy an antique clock.

Category 2 – Those recipients who want a mechanical clock as a decoration

Then, there are the folks who are not really that interested if the clock runs or not but want something that fits their decor and is a good conversation piece. A non-working clock with a good case is perfect. If it has the original movement but it is not working there is always the option of fixing it later. Personally, I would shy away from any clock that has its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one.

Focus on the condition of the case. Is it missing any parts, has recent work been done it, does it look authentic? Does it catch people’s attention?

For example, here is a very attractive Seth Thomas 8-day round top in a bold Rosewood case that has had only one minor veneer repair and a replacement dial face, but it looks great!

You bought the clock but the case is very dirty. Clean it! Some folks might argue that one should not clean a clock case so as to maintain it’s original patina. But, isn’t patina just another word for dirt? Soap and water with gentle scrubbing will make a huge difference. Check out this before and after photo of the cleaning of a clock face.

Junghans clock dial after cleaning with soap, water, and Q-tips

And this before and after photo of a gingerbread clock. You need not want to go the extra distance in retouching the dial but soap and water is an easy and non-invasive method of improving the look of the case itself.

Very grimy clock case especially the base section

After photo showing a clean case and a retouched dial — After, showing a clean case and a retouched dial

Final words

A mechanical clock makes an excellent gift and it is something that can be passed down from one generation to the next. My kids appreciate a mechanical clock from their dad and I will gift them one that is in excellent mechanical condition but I am not bothered if they use it merely as a decoration.

November 15, 2020

Approaching 200,000 views and 58,000+views so far this year

Clock face Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock

In my home, I have a dedicated room to work on my clocks

Five years ago I attended a workshop on WordPress at our local community college. It taught me more about blogging than I ever knew. The idea of a clock blog intrigued me but it is a lot of work, there is much learning and it was not something I wanted to design from the ground up but WordPress came to the rescue. It has an easy-to-do template approach and the only task was providing the content. So, I began the journey of documenting my horological interests and experiences.

The first few months were discouraging. I had very few views and likes which seem to be the lifeblood of many blogs. There is a strong blogger community out there and once connected to that community you get a feel for those sites that are quite successful and offer terrific content and those that quickly run out of steam.

A computer is not only essential for clockwork but it is the tool I use to compose my blogs

It takes time and patience to build a strong audience. It is also a healthy practice in blogging to follow other blogs and support their content and I am seeing a lot of excellent content.

Clock collecting and repair is a passion but I struggle with my writing and try to envision what my audience would like to see in my posts. Writing is not my forte but years working in academia had taught me to convey my thoughts on paper for my students in an effective way. I took notes on what other bloggers were doing, what made their sites engaging so as to improve my writing.

Contentwise, my intention was never to satisfy expert horologists and those in the clock repair business though I certainly don’t mind if they drop by from time to time, make comments, and offer their perspective. I consider myself a clock repair generalist and judging from my mail I seem to appeal to those who are amateurs like myself and those who have stumbled onto my site looking for advice and guidance on clock collecting and repair.

As a self-taught horologist and over the last 11 years, I have gained knowledge and experience working on a wide variety of mechanical clocks. Cabinet or case restoration is also an interest. I do not operate a clockmaking business and I am not a clock vendor though I will sell the odd clock locally to manage my collection.

I have received many comments. Some offer suggestions and advice on projects I am working on while others are looking for direction on their particular clock problem. I provide whatever assistance I can and within my scope of expertise.

Testing in the clock case rather than on a stand — Testing an ogee movement

Stats – the lifeblood of a blog

Like it or not, statistics are the lifeblood of a blog. I receive over 200+ views per day. The top 6 viewers are in the USA, Canada, United Kingdom, Australia, South Africa, and Germany.

Writing articles well in advance and scheduling publication dates help with blog planning particularity when I am vacationing and cannot find the time to write.

My regular features, Tick Talk Tuesday, Crazy Clock Ads, and What Is This Thing For look at the lighter side of clock collecting and repair.

If you are new to my blog, welcome, there is plenty to read. If you are a regular viewer, thank you for supporting me and if you have any ideas for future articles let me know.

November 11, 2020

The essential clock repair library according to Antiquevintageclock.com

Whether you are working on your first clock movement or have repaired dozens, instructional resources, I believe, are essential. There is only so much information gained from a YouTube video (sadly some information is plain wrong) or how-to instructions online and there comes a point in time when you simply must have more detailed information.

An example of a Canadian made gingerbread-style clock

Opinions vary as to what constitutes an essential clock repair library but in this post, I will present those resources for the novice in the clock repair world and for those of you who have taken further steps in your journey.

Most of my work is with American and Canadian clocks, though some are German, some French, and of course, some British. Here are my go-to books starting with the Steven G. Conover series.

My Four Conover books (or manuals) are:

Clock Repair Basics
Striking Clock Repair Guide
Chime Clock Repair
Clock Repair Skills

Conover is very hands-on with plenty of diagrams and detailed step-by-step instructions. He will walk you through the repair of a broad range of clocks while discussing trouble areas, repair how-tos and challenges.

I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon

Next are my Laurie Penman books.

They are;

The Clock Repairer’s Handbook
Common Clock Escapement

While some of his descriptions are quite technical and more targeted towards advanced clock repair he explores the basics as well.

Working with Anniversary or 400-day clocks requires the Horolvar 400-day Clock Repair Guide. 400-day clocks can be quite finicky and you are asking for trouble if you do not have this resource. The perfect companion is Mervyn Passmore’s book entitled Anniversary Clock Adjusting. It is a little short on depth but simple and to the point.

Next are three books by Philip E. Balcome

The Clock Repair First Reader – Second Steps for the Beginner
The Clock Book – An Overview of Heirloom and Contemporary Clocks in the American Home (not a repair book per se but a guide to identifying clock parts, types, styles, and trends)
The Clock Repair Primer – The Beginners Handbook

Balcome books are easy reads and are targeted for beginners and more advanced repairers as well.

Canadian John Plewes’s Repairing and Restoring Pendulum Clocks is an excellent resource for Canadian homegrown clocks. He explores specific clocks, describes repair challenges as well as provide tips and tricks on a number of clocks from not only Canada but all over the world.

Extreme Restoration By T. E. Temple should be in everyone’s library. Temple explores everything from evaluating a project, clock case refinishing, restoring glass, and tablet renewal. His how-to step-by-step instructions are easy to follow. Although the photos in his book are black and white to reduce cost, a companion website provides colour photos.

Though not directly related to clock repair the Home Machinist’s Handbook by Doug Briney explores bench tools, home lathes, Milling machines, treating and finishing the final product.

I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon. I scour used book stores and flea markets to grab pretty much anything I can find.

Although I do not have any of Tran Duy Ly’s excellent reference books I am always on the lookout for them. Of course, they are not about clock repair specifically but they are great resources for identifying the many models and types of clocks from dozens of makers over the years.

A typical reference in Tran Duy ly’s Ansonia clock book

Well, there it is, my essential library of clock repair resources. Of course, there are many other resources and if there is anything else you feel should be on this list, let me know.

November 7, 2020

Tick Talk Tuesday #28 – How do I fix my Waterbury ogee?

Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I receive from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile. I give my responses to your question(s) and provide advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer

It’s an 1870 Waterbury clock, it’s not in the best shape but it seems so sad to see family heirloom that’s was passed down over the years just tossed aside

AS writes,

I have been interested in old clocks and have 4. My maternal great grandparents were all watchmakers in England and I wished they were still alive to teach me the trade. The other day I found this old clock in a second-hand store and I fell in love with, It’s an 1870 Waterbury clock, it’s not in the best shape but it seems so sad to see family heirloom that’s was passed down over the years just tossed aside, I loved it so I bought, It needs some repair and would love to repair it myself, do you have any advice on where I can get it to fix or how to fix it myself I have tried online to find a diagram of the inside so I have an idea on how to fix but found nothing.

Waterbury 8-day ogee clock movement – side view

My reply,

Hi and thanks for coming to my blog.

I have no doubt that the clock you bought is from the 1870s. The style is called “Ogee” because of the curved veneer molding. Yours is unusual in that it has two front doors rather than the typical one door. You are correct; it needs love and attention.

I have several suggestions for you. One, you can learn about servicing clocks by taking courses online. Dave LeBounty is one source. They are not free, however.

Two, there is a clock forum site operated by the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC). It is free to post, you do not need a paid membership and you can ask questions about your clock and get some guidance on how to repair it.

Three, Steven Conover has several excellent books on clock repair. He has one that focuses on time and strike movements, like yours. It is an excellent guide and easy to follow.

Fourth, You can get your hands dirty by taking out the movement and taking it apart yourself. I can walk you through the process.

Hope this helps.

Waterbury 8-day ogee clock movement – backplate

AS replies,

Thank you for your reply, and advice. I will look into the NAWCC, Would love to try and fix it myself, as it would be a joy to learn the craft and maybe save other old clocks. The only clock repair here in New Glasgow closed years ago, so there is no one here to do repairs which is a shame as these old clocks are a part of history and should be saved. I have managed to get the gearbox out, it is in need of a good cleaning and does need some parts, It doesn’t have a spring but 2 ropes that wrap around 2 gears and spindles on either side then attach to 2 weights. The ropes need replacing as well as new weights, If you could walk me through it that would be wonderful. It is a grand old piece and I would love to see it working again.

Note: There are far more 30-hour ogees than there is the 8-day type. I have not come across one in quite some time. In my collection, my 4 ogees are all 30-hour clocks.

November 2, 2020

The antique clock and the dilemma of identity

The antique clock and the dilemma of identity. Some may feel this is much ado about nothing but discussion on identity and antique clocks tends to prompt a lot of debate. Let me explain.

Let’s say you are looking for that particular antique clock and you think you have finally found it. The photos look great and the description hits all of the boxes on your list. Let’s assume you found it locally and are meeting the seller soon to close the deal. You arrive, they present the clock and you notice things that are not quite right with the clock. The clock you thought was an authentic antique has been changed over the years and the seller may or may not even be aware of the changes. If the clock has been changed is it an antique in the truest sense of the word. You walk away feeling that too much has been done to the clock and continue your search.

A clock collector might have the opinion that if too much is done to restore a clock it is not fundamentally the same and cannot be considered original even though the new parts were made from the same materials using similar methods when the clock was first made. An antique shopper who knows little about clocks might not be bothered by the changes if the clock “looks” original.

Another might have the opinion that changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original” and therefore more desirable. But has the clock changed its identity during the change process and is it less original if it has undergone restoration?

Here are some examples.

From This.

Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock — Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock that some would have thrown out

To this.

Not perfect but saved from the trash heap

From this.

Junghans clock in pieces — Junghans Crispi wall clock in a parts box

To this.

Junghans Crispi wall clcok with compensating pendulum — Junghans Crispi wall clock resurrected from the grave

If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock? It follows that if you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity? This is an example of a thought argument that raises the question of whether an object that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object.

I was working on a clock recently that was said by its owner to be an antique. At first glance, it looked original. The case was a little tired, the movement looked like it was cared for or at least properly serviced at some point in its life. As I began to examine it more closely I discovered several anomalies. Although the movement was the “correct” maker as the case, the movement was taken from a kitchen clock and slightly modified to fit the case. Is this clock still an antique or has it strayed too far away from the definition of an antique because it is a “marriage”

People pay for originality. For my money, I prefer a well-cared-for clock in original condition. I will take a second look if it has been tastefully restored or repaired and know that it is better than having it trashed or perhaps parted out. However, I would not expect to pay as much for a “changed” clock”

If a clock is overly restored how should it be valued? I am not against conservation or restoration but if a clock was two steps away from a garbage can is it less valuable if restored?

There are no clear answers. There will always be buyers who demand originality and those who overlook certain changes. Is this much ado about nothing?

October 13, 2020

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – Part II

Over the summer of 2020, I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.

It has great sentimental value to my friend but she recognized that it was in need of adjustment or repair. It had been in her late husband’s family for a number of years and she wanted it to preserve it as a reminder of his life.

This is Part II of a two-part series. My general comments and first impressions are found in Part I which you can find here.

It is an attractive clock in relatively good shape for its age. From my research, I have determined that it was made sometime in the early to mid-1890s.

Time and strike movement with an 1882 patent date

In this post, I will continue with disassembly, cleaning, general comments about the condition of the movement, and any potential trouble spots.

Dis-assembly and servicing the movement

The movement is held in the case by 4 screws. Once out of the case the first order of business is to restrain the mainsprings with mainspring C-clamps before separating the plates. Safety is paramount; those springs are powerful.

Although C-clamps are the round type in the following photo I prefer flat clamps for most American movements. Either will do but flat clamps are perfect for tight spaces.

After disassembly, my Olie Baker spring winder was put into action to unwind the spring, inspect it for cracks, surface rust, or any other issues.

Each mainspring is stretched out and cleaned with a Scotchbight pad and WD-40. It is carefully wiped down leaving no trace of the WD-40 and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner for 20 minutes. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner, you must work quickly to dry and clean the mainspring. Rust is insidious and will creep in quickly.

The mainsprings looked very good and once cleaned and carefully inspected I have no hesitation reusing them.

A mainspring is cleaned, oiled and returned to its arbour

I applied a drop of Keystone mainspring oil on each of the coils, wound the spring several times to spread the oil. Once the C-clamp is re-applied and hooked on to the arbour, the excess oil is wiped away. The clicks are in good shape, sometimes a weakness in American movements. At this point, there is nothing more to be done to the mainsprings until the movement is assembled, so, let’s put them aside.

I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last

I inspected each of the wheels and pivots for wear and found everything including the lantern pinions to be in generally very good condition with one exception. There is minor wear on the flywheel lantern pinions but not enough to warrant replacement at this point.

I usually put the time and strike gears and pretty much everything else in one or two containers. When you have done many movements you learn to quickly identify the location of each component. I can take out any wheel or lever, for example, and identify its specific location. However, if you are just starting out or have not built up enough confidence I highly recommend separating the two sides. In the early days of clock servicing, that is exactly what I did.

I was curious to find that a past repairer scratched “S” (for strike) and “T” (for time) on each one of the wheels according to their location. I understand why but esthetically it does not look good. However, marking the mainspring arbours came in handy. I make it a point to return each mainspring on the arbour they came from. In most cases, the mainsprings are the same length and thickness but every now and then I come across two different sizes. Better to be safe than sorry. That aside the movement appears to be in good condition.

Once the parts are cleaned and dried and the pivot holes are pegged it is on to the next step, pivot polishing. I use a #11 Emory board to polish pivots. I secure each of the wheels in a 3-jaw chuck on my Taig metal lathe and move the Emory boards in an up and down motion to polish the pivots.

Following the polishing, it is on to any bushing work that may be needed. In the case of this movement, two bushings were needed, the second wheel, front plate and the fourth wheel backplate. Here, a new Bergeon brass bushing is pushed into the bottom plate.

New Bergeon bushing. Notice the fixed lifting lever, lower left

Movement Re-assembly

And now for re-assembly and testing.

Since the lifting lever is attached to the bottom plate and is otherwise immoveable the count lever is the only component that has to be put in its correct location.

I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last.

Once the time side wheels and the hour gear are in place I attach the third screw and then work the wheels and levers into place on the strike side. Once everything is in place I tighten all the screws. A pivot locator is your best friend when re-assembling any movement.

On the first attempt, I was not able to synch the strike side locking wheel (sometimes you get lucky the first time) but I mounted the movement on the test stand overnight to check out the time side and the next day it was running as expected. The locking wheel pin needs to be adjusted but that can wait till tomorrow.

One issue raised its head after re-assembly. The strike side gears were not moving at all. I tested each gear and found the flywheel (governor) was sluggish and had no end shake. It freed up if the nut nearest the flywheel was loose enough. The reason. A past repairer installed a bushing that was too tall for the plate. End shake allows freedom of the movement when the plates are screwed tightly down. I filed down the protruding bushing on the inside of the plate and the strike side then ran smoothly.

Next day

Now to open up the top part of the strike side to reposition the locking wheel. Safety first. I restrain the mainsprings just in case the whole thing explodes. I re-positioned the stop pin so that it is resting on the stop lever and presto, everything is working as it should.

I would like to refresh the case but the owner left strict instructions to leave it as-is.

October 9, 2020

Ansonia Syria parlour clock – a favour for a friend – Part 1

Over the summer I was asked to service a friend’s clock. It is an attractive machine-carved oak Ansonia Syria parlour clock in the popular Arts and Crafts style of the late 19th century.

”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”

It was in a well-packed box and in it was a note. The note said, ”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”.

I opened the box, attached the pendulum, gave both arbours several turns, and started the clock. The fact that it is in running order and striking correctly is certainly a positive sign and testament to the fact that it was serviced in the past. Does it need a simple cleaning and regulating or is something else going on?

Apart from a couple of nicks and scratches, the case looks good. I asked the owner if she would like the case reconditioned and she said she prefers it the way it is. Fair enough.

The Ansonia Syria is an attractive mantel clock and according to the label affixed to the inside of the back access door, it is an 1878 Paris Exposition winner. This is helpful because it allows the clock to be dated. On the movement, there is a patent date of June 18, 1882. It is probably safe to say that it was made within a few years of the 1882 date which puts it in the late -1880s to 1890s. Tran Duy Ly in his book on Ansonia clocks (page 245) lists the year of manufacture as 1894.

The Ansonia Clock Company competed with many popular clock companies of the time; Waterbury, Gilbert, Seth Thomas, E. N. Welch, and New Haven to name a few.

Let’s look into this clock a little further. A few interesting anomalies struck me as I examined the clock case and the movement.

Just above the 12, there is a brass insert that looks like the head of a large pin. It is there to conceal a hole. Although difficult to see in the photo, the letters “S” and “F” appear at either side of the pin. The pin hides the hole for the regulator. Clocks with this type of regulator come with two-sided keys and the smaller end is used to insert into the hole and regulate the clock to slow it down or speed it up. The dial pan is also held in place by common nails.
This movement in this case does not have a regulator mechanism and the mechanism was not removed from the movement. This is a period-correct Ansonia replacement movement that originally came out of a kitchen clock with an alarm. The alarm would have been attached to an activating lever which has been cut off on this movement (see the centre of below shot).

In the above photo, you can see standoffs on the rear plate and clearly standoffs on the front plate. The front standoffs are fashioned from a brass ribbon, bent, drilled out, and cut to fit. The clock is, what we term in the clock business, a marriage. It is always nice to see that it has a movement from the same manufacturer and from the same period as the clock case but a marriage certainly reduces its desirability and makes it difficult to classify it as an antique.
Next, the suspension spring post has been re-soldered, loose perhaps.
And lastly, the hour hand is a replacement. The original hour hand would have been a trident style.

That having been said, the clock has great sentimental value for the owner, and the fact that it is a marriage and has undergone changes over the years may not be a factor.

The movement has been worked on in the past. There are 16 replacement bushings. The bushing work looks professional and after a first look perhaps 2 or 3 require replacement though none on the strike side. Otherwise, the movement was dirty and had thick black-greenish oil residue on several pivots. Not surprising in an antique clock but indicative of some level of wear. The mainsprings were dripping with brown oil, but I have seen a lot worse.

The next step is to service the movement. Part 2, in four days’ time will detail disassembly, bushing work, and general cleaning.

October 5, 2020

Scottish tall case clock with new top finials

The final step in the repair/restoration of my tall case clock are the top finials. This clock had top corner finials at one point in its life. There is evidence that something was there on either side of the crown. I have no idea what they might have looked like but judging from photos of many tall case clocks of the 1850s period they were likely a brass ball type.

My first sight of the clock in a corner of an auction house

It is a classic Scottish tall case design from the 1850s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24. The clock stands approximately 84 inches.

Continue reading “Scottish tall case clock with new top finials” →

September 27, 2020

Ansonia Drop Extra does not run and a rusty mainspring is the culprit

Some time ago I wrote an article on an interesting acquisition, an Ansonia Extra Drop, a true barn find.

This Ansonia Extra Drop time-only Rosewood veneered wall clock was manufactured in the early 1880s by what was then known as the Ansonia Brass and Copper Company.

It was in pretty rough shape when I bought it and the only significant part missing is the brass dial bezel and a number of minor items such as the verge, hands, pendulum bob, suspension spring/rod, and the drop access door (which I made later on).

I was challenged by the whole prospect of putting the many pieces back together and giving what most would consider a throw-away movement, a second chance.

Siezed time-only movement — A sad-looking and seized time-only movement

Here is the movement when I found it. What a sight! I thought if I stripped away all the rust and dirt something of value would be salvageable. How many of you would simply toss it out?

After disassembly, scrubbing, cleaning, and one new escape wheel bushing here is the final result.

Cleaned up time only movement — Cleaned and serviced time only movement

First servicing

The fact that the spring was unwound on the movement when I received it tells me two things. One, the chance that it is “set” is reduced and secondly, having an open coil means more surface rust on the outer part of the spring.

I did my best to remove most of the rust on the mainspring and it went back in the movement. A short while later I discovered that the clock would only run if I wound it about halfway. Otherwise, if wound tight it would not run at all. The surface rust was evidently causing it to stop.

Some clockmakers who after observing any rust on a mainspring would immediately toss it out and argue that the spring is weaker because of the presence of surface rust. In this case, the mainspring is unsightly but has no cracks and has plenty of power.

Other repairers apply a liquid or gel, black tea, or even use electrolytic rust removal to extricate the rust. I know I risk igniting a debate about mainspring replacement and if I were in the business of clock repair, I would certainly toss out the mainspring and pass the cost on to the customer. However, I am hesitant to spend money on a new mainspring for what is essentially a $5.00 barn-find clock and my challenge was to spend as little money as possible on this clock.

During the initial servicing, I managed to get rid of most of the mainspring rust.

Second servicing

Still some problems. After several months I took it apart again, ran the parts through my new ultrasonic cleaner which I did not have at the time of the first servicing. I placed the mainspring in as well. Scotch Brite abrasive pad and WD40 combined are excellent for cleaning a mainspring and I was able to effectively smooth out the rough and rusty outer sections of the mainspring. Again, I checked for cracks and suspicious imperfections and found none. After rubbing the abrasive pad over the mainspring several times I gave it a healthy coating of Keystone mainspring oil. A smoother, rust-free mainspring should function a lot better.

Rather than mount the movement on the test stand, I installed it back into its case but left the dial off so I could monitor it more closely. It runs very well and has run several full 8-day cycles.

Ansonia movement in case — Ansonia movement in its case

I realize that I have pushed the limit of this mainspring and the next step is a replacement but we’ll see what happens after the testing period.

Weeks later

The movement continues to run well and now it is time to put everything back together.

September 23, 2020

Pequegnat Simcoe – servicing the movement

The Simcoe is one of 8 Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection. It is very similar in dimensions and style to the Jewel produced around the same time but a few dollars more at the time. The Jewel is an unadorned box while the Simcoe has more bling, a piecrust dial bezel, claw feet on each corner and lions head handles with rings on each side.

Time and strike movement with steel plates — Time and strike movement with nickle-plated brass plates

To collectors, it is often referred to as a”Berlin” clock. Although it is impossible to date Pequegnat clocks the name Berlin distinguishes clocks made before 1917 and those made after and up to 1941 when the factory finally shut its doors for good. Clocks made prior to 1917 were inscribed “Berlin”, Ontario on the dial face as Kitchener was known as Berlin until midway through World War I. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada). Those made afterwards have only the company name.

I passed by the clock in an antique store in Victoria, British Columbia without realizing that it was a Pequegnat. My wife has an eagle eye, told me to take a second look and I returned. Sure enough, a Pequegnat!

The yellow oak case is in very good condition with one or two small scratches and a chip just above the top of the bezel. The dial pan has had an ugly repair, there are two dabs of solder at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock protruding through the front of the dial.

The working movement looked to be in good shape but I expected some wear when I took it apart. After all, it is nearly110 years old.

I don’t know why Pequegnat chose to nickel-plate its movements. Perhaps the look was more exotic but the practical reason was to mitigate the formation of rust, The plating distinguished itself from similar American offerings notably the Seth Thomas number 89. Earlier Berlin movements had nickel-plated brass plates while later Kitchener clocks had steel plates with pressed in brass bushings.

On to the movement itself. Having a bell for the 1/2 hour strike adds to the complexity of the movement. It does not surprise me that later Pequegnat dispensed with the bell and relied on a passing strike gong. A keyhole regulator adjustment on earlier clocks, another complexity, gave way to an adjustable pendulum.

As expected, there were no surprises. The only evidence that the clock has been worked on is the newer strike side mainspring which is slightly smaller in height than the time side. Regardless, both springs run the full 8-day cycle.

There was no evidence of bushing work in the past and it is no surprise that it required some bushing work. Four were required on the time side and one on the strike side: S2R, T3F, T4F and EW front and back.

Assembly and testing

Now on to assemble and test the movement.

Assembly went well. On the test stand, the movement seemed to be working well but after a few days, I observed that it was not striking every hour. It was working well before I worked on it, so, something is amiss.

I wound the mainsprings tight thinking it was a power issue until I discovered that the helper spring on one of the lifting levers did not have enough tension. In other words, the unlocking lever was not lifting the count lever to prepare for warning. The solution? Tighten the lever helper spring.

In the meantime, I gave the case a good cleaning and one coat of shellac.

After a week it is running well and back on display.

September 19, 2020

Pequegnat kitchen clock servicing – Part II – cleaning, pivot polishing, bushing work and testing

On the bench is an Arthur Pequegnat time and strike kitchen clock which is part of the popular Maple Leaf series produced up to 1941 when the company closed its doors for good. In Part I of this two-part series I discussed disassembly and assessment of the work to be done.

In this Part II I continue with cleaning, pivot polishing, bushing work assembly and testing.

Parts cleaning

All parts are cleaned in the ultrasonic and dried immediately afterwards. The mainsprings were cleaned, oiled and placed back in their spring retainers.

Bushing work

One of the pivots had small amount of scoring but otherwise all other pivots were in good shape, polished and made ready for bushing. Here I have the wheels ready for polishing. An emery board is perfect for pivot polishing. A steady-rest (top right) also comes in handy for those pivot ends that are difficult to secure in the 3-jaw chuck.

Getting ready to polish the pivots, steady-rest is in the upper right of the photo

As mentioned in Part I, I wanted to begin with the most problematic bushing wear, the escape wheel, but first it meant straightening out one of the pivots. A straight pivot will allow the arbour to align better.

Here (below) is the hatchet job of a past repairer. Normally I have sympathy for folks who had few tools to work with in the old days but attempting to close a pivot hole so aggressively and bending a pivot in the process is terrible workmanship. It is a wonder the clock ran at all.

The new bushing is certainly an improvement. My one concern was cutting into the steel as the pressed brass inserts for the bushings are not quite on-center. It is a quick way to ruin a Bergeon reamer and this time, it was close! This was the toughest one, the other 4 on the time side were standard installs. As mentioned in the last post, the strike side pivot holes were in great condition which happens when the strike side is not wound.

Reassembly and testing

Now, on to reassembly. The last 2 movements I worked on had steel plates with a similar problem; bent plates. If they are bent in any way it is a struggle to align the top and bottom pillars. Moreover, if the plates are bent especially in the middle they may impede the running of the movement as there may be insufficient end-shake for the wheels to run. There needs to be a little end-shake or the gear’s arbour will bind. I am not a big fan of steel plates.

Generally, I do not replace helper springs but if they are broken, replacement is essential. Many Canadian time and strike clocks have helper springs to maintain tension on lifting and locking levers including the lever for the strike action. The hammer spring looked good when I disassembled the movement but during reassembly, the spring promptly snapped. The .35mm brass spring was replaced with one the same size.

Having worked on two other similar Pequegnat movement recently, I knew exactly where to position the stop wheel for the strike side. Everything went together smoothly, the movement is now on the test stand and destined to run for years to come.

The case is in great shape but the dial was beginning to flake. I found the right combination of colours and inpainted where needed.

As received with some flaking of the dial

While there was little wrong with the clock before servicing it is nice to know it will continue along for many years to come.

September 9, 2020

Pequegnat kitchen clock servicing – Part I – disassembly and assessment

On the bench is an Arthur Pequegnat time and strike kitchen clock which is part of the popular Maple Leaf series produced up to 1941. Among collectors it is know as the “Pointed Top”. This Canadian made clock was bought at an antique store in Bloomfield, Ontario the summer of 2018 and presumably spent its life in or around the Toronto area.

The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to 1941. Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada.

Pequegnat made mantel, shelf, hall clocks (Tall case) and wall clocks mostly of oak though some were mahogany veneered. The Kitchen clock or gingerbread clock as it is often called was very popular at the time and Pequegnat made an effort to keep up with current styles with a range called the Maple Leaf. There were six versions of the Maple Leaf clock made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Though the dimensions are similar they share two unique characteristics; all Maple Leaf’s have the distinctive maple leaf tablet and Maple Leaf pendulum. It is Pequegnat’s interpretation of a truly Canadian clock styled after similar American ones.

I always make it a point to mark the time side wheel and mainspring so as not to confuse the two

It is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates (confirmed with a magnet) and brass bushings pressed into the plates. Unlike most Pequegnat movements this one is unmarked. Because of the shortage of brass after the First World War, Pequegnat used steel for their plates but with pressed brass bushing inserts. There must have been a cut-off date when Pequegnat switched from brass to steel plates so, this movement may have been made during the transition period at or around 1916.

Not surprisingly it had been worked on in the past. One escape wheel bushing on the front plate has ugly punch marks around it made while a past repairer attempted to close a pivot hole. In the process the pivot was bent. Upon closer inspections there are dients on the top of the pivot.

Otherwise there appears to be an average amount of wear for its age. I corrected one small issue right away; the half hour strike arm was loose in the arbour and had turned to one side. I oriented it to the correct position and secured it with Lock-Tite.

Disassembly and assessment

Ah, but I discovered another reason why the strike arm was loose. While the time side requires at least 5 or 6 bushings due to excessive wear, the strike side has almost no wear at all. I can only surmise that the strike side was seldom wound. It makes perfect sense that the half-hour strike arm was twisted out of the way so as not to make any sound at all.

Overall, less bushing work for me but as far as I am concerned both sides are meant to run and they will.

Broken pressure washer on the count wheel

Though still usable the pressure washer on the count wheel is broken.

Bushing work

I thought I would tackle the worst bushing first, the escape wheel, back plate. First, to straighten the bent pivot. I put the wheel in the chuck of my mini lathe and gave the wheel a few spins. Yes, definitely bent.

Using a punch I inserted the hollow end into the pivot and determined where I had to bend it by giving it a few more slow spins on the lathe. It is soft steel and bends easily.It is important not to be too aggressive as the pivot can snap off. Installing a new pivot is not fun!

Using a hollow end punch to straighten a pivot

Once straightened I gave it a good polish.

It is worth mentioning that on this movement the time side mainspring is 17.2 mm high while the strike side is 15.6mm; not the first time I have seen a differential on movement such as this. I always make it a point to mark the time side wheel and mainspring so as not to confuse the two.

Now it is on to cleaning, pivot polishing, bushing work and testing which will be discussed in Part II.

September 5, 2020

The pandemic allowed time to service my clocks and help me understand “sympathetic vibration”

I know many of you did your best to adapt to isolation during what is now known as The Coronavirus Pandemic. It changed the way we think, the way we behave and the way we interact with each other. My condolences to those who suffered during this infamous chapter of our lives particularly those of you who lost loved ones.

I had already established my clock hobby long beforehand so the last few months meant that I was able to focus on tasks that I had planned to do but wondered whether I would ever have the time. Corvid19 changed that.

What was also very different was that I could no longer acquire new clocks to add to my collection. So, instead of searching for new ones, I serviced ones in my collection which is not a bad thing.

However, on day 6 of the weekly cycle, the clock would stop and always on day 6. Why?

I was very productive.

I have a small but growing collection of Arthur Pequegnat clocks and was able to service a good number of them and in the process learn the differences, some major and some minor, between early Pequegnat movements and later ones. I honed my skills as a clockmaker, meeting new challenges with each movement I worked on. Four of those clocks are:

Restored Athur Pequegnat Bedford mantel clock — Arthur Pequegnat Bedford shelf clock

Restored Arthur Pequegnat Bedford shelf clock; case and movement are now done.

As with the Bedford, Maple Leaf “pointed top” and the Simcoe the cases, including the dial and movement were done.

Maple Leaf kitchen clock, the “pointed top”

However, I was also able to focus on what I consider my most exciting clock acquisition in the last 3 years, my circa 1850 Scottish tall case clock.

I reconditioned and repaired the case and serviced what I would call the most frustrating movement I have encountered to date, an English bell strike. Plenty of patience is required for this one. It is all about small adjustments and in this case, mostly the strike side. Just when you think things are going well, another issue surfaces. I should have expected that working on a 170-year-old clock is not easy.

I was unable to return the movement to the case immediately because it had to go through the testing process which meant constructing a clock stand. I have two other stands but they are too short and made specifically for wall and mantel clocks. Taking ideas from similar test stands online I constructed a 48″ high tall case test stand for my English bell strike movement.

The phenomenon of sympathetic vibration

However, during movement testing which lasted for weeks, I encountered a consistent problem. On day 6 of the weekly cycle, the clock would stop and always at about the same point in time. Why? It is something called “sympathetic vibration”. When the clock stops as the weights descended to the level of the pendulum a harmonic phenomenon occurs “wherein a formerly passive string or vibratory body responds to external vibrations to which it has a harmonic likeness”.

In practical terms, when the weights on a tall clock descend to the point where it’s at about the same height as the pendulum, the weights may begin to swing slightly. Since the power that drives the pendulum is now swinging the weight as well, the pendulum does not get its share of power and stops. Sometimes, despite the swinging of the weights the movement soldiers on but in the case of this movement there is insufficient over-swing of the pendulum to compensate for the loss of power.

It can generally be addressed in a tall case clock by fastening the upper part of the case to the wall, or by mounting the case on a solid foundation. For a free-standing clock stand placing a block of stiff foam rubber between the stand and the wall usually cures the problem.

Although the Scottish tall case project consumed a lot of time, it was very satisfying and it was a great learning experience.

More clocks

There are some other clocks I could have mentioned, two German time and strike clocks, a Mauthe and a Muller, a Gufa Westminster chime but suffice to say I made a lot of progress with my collection.

However, beyond the hours of time, it is self-satisfaction and a sense of accomplishment while engaged in productive activities that are the real intrinsic benefits. And folks, that’s what a hobby is all about.

September 1, 2020

Pequegnat Bedford – servicing the movement

To Canadian clock collectors, Arthur Pequegnat are clocks highly regarded. Irrespective of model names they are generally classified as either “Berlin” or “Kitchener”. The Arthur Pequegnat Bedford is a Kitchener clock. Let me explain.

Although it is impossible to date Pequegnat clocks to the exact year of production, the name Berlin distinguishes clocks made before 1917 and those made after and up to 1941 when the factory finally shut its doors for good. Those made after 1917 are referred to as Kitchener clocks. Prior to 1917 “Berlin”, Ontario (Canada) was inscribed on the dial face and after the war, simply “Canada”.

Later Pequegnat movements, such as this one, have steel plates with brass bushing inserts while older Pequegnat movement plates were nickle plated brass

Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada).

This clock was given to me by a gentleman from Quebec City in May 2018. He wrote to me and asked if I wanted it, at no cost. It was his father’s clock and he felt it should go to a home where it would be appreciated. All I had to do was pick it up. While on our annual journey to our cottage in central Canada we stopped by, spent the morning chatting about clocks and other things, and have become friends ever since.

Bedford with a 6-inch dial, Canadian Clock Museum

This clock might possibly be a variant. Most Bedfords have the smaller 6-inch dial as opposed to the larger 7-inch dial on this clock.

The dial bezel and glass might also have been added as part of a later repair. The past owner told me that the clock fell and the damage was extensive. I spend part of the summer of 2018 reconstructing and refinishing the case but did nothing with the movement.

Now, two years later, the movement must be serviced.

Later Pequegnat movements, such as this one, have steel plates with brass bushing inserts while older Pequegnat movement plates were nickel-plated brass. The change to steel was made during World War I when brass was in short supply. Most Pequegnat movements are stamped with the company name; this movement is unmarked.

Standard Pequegnat movement with steel plates

It was a running clock when I received it, had been running since 2018 and I did not expect too many issues while performing the service nonetheless there were problem areas. In a past repair, someone attempted to close pivot holes by punching into the steel plate. That did not work well. There is some bushing wear and from my initial assessment, at least 5 or 6 new bushings are required. On the other hand, the pivots look to be in very good condition.

Servicing the mainsprings

The strike side’s main wheel assembly fell apart when I removed the mainspring. Using a punch I staked it back together. The mainsprings are in very good condition with no rust or cracks and will be re-used. They were cleaned, oiled with Keystone mainspring oil and reinstalled on their wheels.

Bushing work

As mentioned above, a past repairer attempted to unsuccessfully close at least 4 existing bushings by punching into the steel plate, so, this movement has never been bushed.

This movement was certainly more worn than I thought. After assessing the movement a second time I determined that 9 bushings were required, 6 for the time side and 3 for the strike side. With brass inserts punched into a steel plate, one is always fearful of an insert becoming dislodged or falling out. Not this time, everything went smoothly.

The 4th wheel on the strike side is unlike every other wheel with a thinner shaft just below the pivot area. The shaft was turned in order to access the lantern pinions from that end. Why not come in from the other side?

I have seen many interesting repairs over the years so I am not especially surprised.

Parts laid out after cleaning in the ultrasonic

Once the repairs are made, the parts are cleaned, the pivots polished and new bushings installed, it is on to reassembly.

Everything but the verge is ready for the top plate

Once the wheels and levers are in position it is ready for the top plate. The escapement verge is installed once the plates are together.

During the course of reassembly I discovered a bent steel front plate which meant lining holes to the pillars was frustrating. Brass bends easily but steel also bends with enough force. I suppose if one attempts to punch a plate to close pivot holes while the movement is assembled, the plates might just get bent.

On the test stand. Beat amp microphone attached to set and monitor the beat

Then, it is on the adjustments and testing. The movement is running and striking as it should but a testing period of a couple of 8-day cycles should tell me if any further adjustments are required.

After two weeks all is good and the movement is returned it its case. It should be good for years to come.

August 22, 2020

Selling an antique mechanical clock – preparation and advertising – how to

How to sell an antique mechanical clock

If you are a collector like myself there will come a point when there are just too many clocks and not enough walls and mantels. I manage my collection in two ways, some clocks are gifted while others are sold. I am not in the business of selling clocks but occasionally I will sell a few to trim my collection.

The objective is to recoup my initial investment and any time I put into a particular clock plus, make room for new acquisitions.

Juba Schatz time and strike sold in 2018

I hope you find these tips useful when preparing to sell your clock.

What does “antique” mean: The general standard for considering something as an antique is that it must be least 100 years old. Based on this definition a clock made on or before 1920 is an antique. Anything under 100 years but more than 30 years is vintage and anything 30 years or less is considered collectible. However, you will find sellers using the word antique when clearly, the article is vintage. And some consider anything that is old to be an antique.

Vintage Mauthe Westminster chime sold in 2019

Value: Research auction prices to get a feel for the value of similar clocks that are offered for sale and the price realized. There will be a range of prices and something in the middle of the range is a good guide. Know that a clock is only worth as much as someone will pay. If you price your clock too high you will know it soon enough.

Rare and desirable clocks, as well as clocks with an interesting provenance, will command higher prices.

Clocks vary in price according to the geographic location where they are sold. Generally, clocks that are made in the same location as the clock is sold will command higher prices.

Preparing the clock for sale: A clock in running condition will be worth more than one that is not. A professionally serviced clock in excellent running order will command a higher price. A clock case cleaned of grime will present better than a dirty one. Missing hands or dial glass will adversely affect the price. Items such as these can be replaced and parts are available from clock suppliers but it becomes an extra cost for the buyer and for many it is a deal-breaker.

Disclosure: Honesty is key. Tell the prospective buyer as much as possible about the clock. A clock that is a marriage, a case with a similar but replacement movement, should be stated as such. Replacement glass, newer dial, replacement crowns and finials, case repairs or full case restoration should also be disclosed. If the clock is running and was recently serviced by a competent repair person, state it. If the clock is running but the movement needs to be cleaned, state it. If it is not running describe why and what issues it might have (poor previous repairs, missing parts etc.). If you do not know, state it. Describe excessive wear, damage or missing pieces such as crowns, finials and trim pieces.

If your clock is rare, indicate why it is rare and how your research supports your description.

Jauch wall clock may look antique but it was made in the 1970s

Where to advertise: There is any number of ways to sell a clock. Facebook for-sale sites, local online for-sale sites, eBay, flea markets, consignment shops and auction houses are popular places to sell a clock. Setting up an account for most online sites is a pre-requisite but there is usually no cost.

Photographing your clock: Few cell phones are capable of capturing a detailed image of a clock but for many, it will have to do. Out of focus photos are a no-no, however.

Several images from different angles as well as a photo of the inside of the clock case are much more helpful than one photo. During the daylight, place the clock near a window and position yourself between the window and the clock to take a series of photos in natural light. If there is damage or wear take closeup photos of those areas.

A dedicated camera with artificial light will produce superior results.

Determining the age of a clock by the movement from a Gilbert mantel clock is easy. It is stamped on the plate (1925)

Collectors are interested in certain makes. Along with your description state the maker and the approximate age. If you do not know, a picture of the makers mark on the dial or the movement will assist prospective buyers.

Description of your clock: Crafting an ad is an art in itself. You must be concise and accurate and not overly wordy. There is a balance between too little and too much information. More information means fewer inquiries from prospective buyers. Too much information with technical terms will turn off prospective buyers.

State the clock’s maker if known, the model if possible, the year it was made, the type, (time-only, time and strike, chiming clock), the style of clock (mantel, wall, shelf, parlour, Ogee, tall-case etc.). as well as any interesting features, for example, a steeple clock with an alarm function or a clock with a second’s hand.

There is no need to provide a reason for selling but sometimes it helps the ad.

Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock — Junghans Crispi German time and strike wall clock, circa 1899

Example of a poor ad for Mauthe clock pictured below

Antique chiming clock, comes with key

Example of a good ad

Scaling down my collection. Antique German time and strike clock made by Friedrich Mauthe, circa 1899. Original glass, mild restoration including new upper centre finial, repainted hands, new wall stabilizers and new arch piece. Cleaned and serviced in 2019. Runs well, key supplied.

And finally

Know your terms: If you are selling a mantel clock, the word is mantel, not “mantle”. A clock with two winding points (and there are exceptions) are generally called striking clocks, that strike not “chime” on the hour and half hour. A chiming clock generally has a quarter-hour musical tone such as Westminster or Whittington and often has three winding points (again there are exceptions). There is no such thing as a Tempus Fugit clock. Tempest fugit means “time flies”. A grandfather clock is a tall-case clock 6 feet or higher, not a wall clock. Gingerbreads and parlour clocks are different but both are often called kitchen clocks.

Though certainly not a definitive guide to selling, I hope I have provided some pointers and ideas when you decide to sell your antique mechanical clock.

August 8, 2020

Servicing a Pequegnat time and strike movement

Pequegnat was in the business of making clocks in Kitchener, Canada for over 35 years, 1903 to 1941. Unfortunately the shortage of brass during World War II was the death knell for this company. Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian clock collectors and command higher than average prices, in Canada at least. The best collection of Pequegnat clocks can be found at the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario.

This article concerns the servicing of a typical Pequegnat time and strike movement. By typical I mean that most time and strike movements have steel plates with brass bushing inserts pressed into the plates. This was a working clock when I got it but I knew that there had to be wear issues that needed to be addressed.

This movement comes out of a Canuck.

Arthur Pequegnat Canuck gingerbread clock

The Canuck is a gingerbread style clock, not particularly sought after by collectors but an attractive clock for the kitchen or the dining area.

I began with revitalizing the case which meant giving all the oak surfaces a good cleaning followed by two coats of shellac. The dial was in poor condition and I considered an aftermarket dial but in the end decided to try a little inpainting with good results.

Pequegnat movements with steel plates are nickle plated. Most of the plating has worn off on this movement so while it make look dirty after cleaning it is simply tarnished. The movement is well constructed with 4 cut pinions and 6 lantern pinions. I am going out on a limb here but I have worked on a lot of similar American movements and this movement, in my view, is better designed in many ways.

Dirty and tarnished but in good shape otherwise

I do not not believe this movement has ever been worked on. I see no evidence of past repairs and/or adjustments which is a good thing because undoing previous bad work can be very frustrating. There is some bushing wear as expected, but the pivots, cut pinions and lantern pinions are all in excellent condition.

The time side required 4 new bushings, T2F, T3F, T4F and T4R. The strike side required one bushing, T3F. There is plenty of power left in the mainsprings which were cleaned and oiled. Otherwise, the movement was dirty, though I have seen far worse. My ultrasonic took care of most of the dirt and grime but the wheels benefited from additional hand cleaning.

Getting everything working nicely when all is back together is more luck than skill. The strike side did not lock as it should but I decided to test the time side for a few days before opening up the plates to move the stop wheel into its correct position. Everything is working now.

A nice little project and while I would not say it was brought back to life it is completely serviced and will run for many years to come.

July 25, 2020

Interesting clock repairs, some good, some not so good

While I admire the ingenuity and creativity of clock repairpersons many years ago some of the repairs are downright scary and dangerous. I say clock repairpersons because may were back yard mechanics with minimal clock skills that were paid to “just get his thing running”.

In this article, I will describe some of the strange repairs in clocks I have worked on over the years.

Let’s start with this interesting wheel repair.

Tooth repair on a 30-hour time and strike

I would call this a passable tooth repair. It is functional but it could have been dressed properly and filed down to improve its appearance. I left it as-is.

Continue reading “Interesting clock repairs, some good, some not so good” →

July 17, 2020

English bell strike servicing Part I – the assessment

In February 2020 my wife was perusing an online auction house looking for interesting bargains and noticed a 170-year-old Scottish tall case offered for bidding.

Over the past couple of years we had talked about acquiring an antique tall case clock but those we liked were either well beyond our reach or required extensive repairs so, here was a unique opportunity.

Though we had only auction photos to go by, the clock looked intriguing and was very much what we had in mind. We began our bidding low and managed to win the bid with a decent and acceptable (to us) price.

Tall case clocks have dropped dramatically in price over the past few years; nobody wants them and they do not fit the modern minimalist lifestyle of the young today. Besides, where would you put it?

Tucked into the corner of the auction house

The clock was not without issues nor did I expect it to be problem-free. The case required some structural work and the overall finish was dull and lifeless.

This article concerns my initial impressions and assessment of the movement prior to cleaning and dis-assembly.

What was I up against in terms of servicing the movement? What kind of issues would I find and did I have the skills to address those issues?

My preliminary assessment involved setting up the movement, connecting the weights, and performing some tests. After putting the clock in beat I managed to have it running for about a day.

while the time side ran well the strike side was another matter. Attaching the weight to the strike side produced a run-on strike until the power was depleted. Hmm, something serious or simply a minor adjustment?

Back of clock showing the crutch, bell, and hammer

While I have worked on dozens of English, German and American time and strike movements, this was my first attempt at an English bell strike. They are relatively easy to dis-assemble and re-assemble but are notorious for being temperamental. The greatest challenge is not the cleaning of the components or the reassembly, it is achieving long term reliability as a dozen parts threaten to hang up, split, or fall apart. Wear combined with scars from old repairs challenge any clockmaker.

First impressions

It is a very heavy movement with 3mm plates and large well-engineered components. These movements were designed to run reliably for years but 170 years and a history of cumulative repairs leaves one with a movement that can fail in many unexpected ways.

Problem areas/issues

Enlarged pivot holes: I am reluctant to bush every pivot hole but upon inspection at least 3 bushings are required and possibly a fourth.
Repaired rack tail: The rack tail takes quite a beating. Once the rack is released during the strike sequence it drops with a bang on the snail. Years of banging ultimately results in a damaged and often repaired tail. The fix on this movement is ugly but the question is, is it robust enough to continue doing its job?
Homemade rack tail spring: Made from copper wire; there is too much tension causing the rack tail to strike the snail with too much force. A new rack spring has been ordered. In the meantime, I am using a thinner spring wire.
Worn gathering pallet: Assess and determine functionality.
Loose clicks: Loose clicks are a common issue with English bell strike clocks. The clicks on this movement are loose though the strike side is a little tighter than the time side. Both are functional. Should they be replaced or will they continue to function reliably as-is?
Loose crutch The crutch rod connecting to the escape wheel arbour has been adjusted too many times. It is loose and must be addressed.
Stiff Suspension spring: The suspension spring is the incorrect thickness and fashioned from a piece of a metal ruler! There is little amplitude. A new suspension spring assembly, pendulum rod, spike and hex nut have been ordered.
Bent rack: If it is soft steel it can be bent back to its original position. If it is hardened steel it could break if I tried to bend it.
Loose bell connection: Bell has been removed many times and the thread for the bell rod end where it connects to the cast iron bell, is stripped.
Missing seconds hand: Ordered
Calendar hand not connected: The movement has no calendar function. The face has a calendar hand and while the movement has no calendar wheel the movement is period correct. Was the movement replaced early in the clock’s life or was the clock originally built and assembled without a calendar function? That will remain one of the clock’s mysteries.
The cables are brass and they look old: I will make decision whether or not they should be replaced.

Side view showing the main wheel and the time train

And this ends part I. In the next part, dis-assembly and re-assembling the movement will be covered so, stay with me as we explore this movement further in Part II.

July 13, 2020

Tall case clock movement testing stand

A clock test stand is an absolute must for anyone that repairs antique and/or vintage clocks. Quite often minor adjustments are required after servicing that can only be made if the movement is on a test stand.

Years ago I bought a test stand from Merritts Clock Supplies. It is called Gene’s test stand and it is both versatile and adjustable. The stand can be used for many mantel and wall clocks. For those wall clocks that have longer pendulums, I designed what I call a movement stand extension that you can see in the photo below.

Continue reading “Tall case clock movement testing stand” →

July 9, 2020

Don’t throw those old clock parts away

Don’t throw that old clock case or movement away. In this article, I will describe how I repurpose/reuse an old ogee clock case and how saving those old clock parts will come in handy someday.

Some time ago I responded to an ad on our local online for-sale site from an individual who had four clocks for sale, all for $20. I had no idea of the condition of the clocks but for the price I couldn’t lose but I knew it would be interesting. So, off my wife and set off for a 30-minute drive north of our home in Nova Scotia. The seller had them spread out on a table in an old barn. They had been stored in an attic for many years and were filthy.

None of them were in great shape but three came with mechanical movements which was worth the price alone.

They are:

E N Welch 30-hour Ogee movement and case,
Elisha Manross time and strike steeple clock, with 30-hour movement,
Ansonia Extra Drop time-only, 8-day wall clock with movement,
Waterbury mantel clock, replacement quartz movement.

That ogee case on the left was missing half of its veneer and would never be whole again

I managed to salvage two clocks from this bunch.

The Ansonia Extra Drop is hanging in my office and runs daily. The Elisha Manross steeple clock from 1843 has been cleaned up, serviced, and is now on display. The Manross clock has the distinction of being the only one in my collection with rare brass mainsprings.

A couple of missing pieces but looks good and runs well (reflection between 6 & 7)

Both clocks look great

Elisha Manross 30-hour steeple with brass mainsprings and new right finial & base

The Welch ogee and the Waterbury mantel clock were well beyond the due date they still had use as donor or parts clocks. I removed the brass bezel, strike rod block, dial face, rear door, and hinges from the Waterbury clock and tossed out the case which was not salvageable. Even the veneer could not be reused.

There was quite a bit to salvage from the Welch clock. I took out the movement, cleaned it, and put it aside to be used as a spare Ogee movement. I removed the pulleys, glass, hinges, iron nails, door catch and stripped the case entirely of its Rosewood veneer.

A new door made from the back panel of the ogee

Talk to any clockmaker. Many save parts from clocks beyond repair for future use

Veneer from the ogee was used to make a new finial base for the Elisha Manross steeple clock

A section of old wood is glued to a missing section of the backboard for the Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock

Veneer from the ogee clock was used to cover the finial bases for an old Scottish tall case clock.

Talk to any clockmaker and you will find many that save parts from clocks beyond repair. Conserve, do not throw anything out, it may have a future use as a hard-to-find part for a repair.

July 5, 2020

Time to relax and slow down

It is time to take a little break. It has been a difficult first half of 2020 and we are all feeling the effects of isolation. For many the world-wide pandemic has been an adjustment not only with our daily routine but in our interactions with those dear to us. Hopefully things will change for the better.

Now, it is time to relax and slow down and for my wife and I that means a change of scenery.

I will be at our cottage in central Canada for most of the summer season spending as much quality time as I can with friends & family. At our summer get-away I plan to relax with a few good books, do a little fishing, swimming, hiking and exchange stories with friends and neighbours over a glass (or two) of wine.

Regular readers know that I typically maintain a steady output of 7 to 9 clock themed articles per month. I have prepared a number of articles in advance of the summer months which means that there will be NO interruption in blog posts.

Keep those letters coming. There may be a slight delay returning your email inquiry or responding to comments on blog posts but be assured that any question(s) about your clock or comments regarding any of my posts are important to me and will be answered as soon as I am able.

This blog profiles my own clock collection, the challenges of maintaining and repairing clocks, the joys of finding new and interesting vintage and antique clocks plus many articles of general interest. As we explore central Canada I will no doubt come across some interesting clocks as we forage through antique stores and flea markets. No doubt my summer adventures will produce new clock stories, new repair challenges and perhaps that next major restoration project. I might even include a trip to The Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario.

If you are a newcomer to my blog, use the search box to browse past articles and/or click “follow” to have clock articles brought to your mailbox every three to four days. I hope you enjoy reading them as much as I enjoy researching each article.

June 23, 2020

Service intervals for antique and vintage mechanical clocks?

It is not uncommon for a mechanical clock to run 25, 30 years or more with nothing more done to it other than the occasional oiling.

How often should a mechanical clock be serviced? It is not as simple an answer as it seems.

In this post, I will discuss what it means to service a mechanical clock and explore some of the factors that influence how long a clock’s movement will last and how to prolong its life. Those factors will help you decide the best service interval for your antique or vintage clock.

Elisha Manross 30 hour movement — A very dirty 30-hour movement from the 1850s

If your clock does not work, cleaning it is the first step in determining the problem. Cleaning is just another word for servicing and the term “servicing” in the realm of professional clock repair implies a complete disassembly of the movement.

Though a common practice in the past, dunking a movement in a solvent and hoping for the best is not a substitute for servicing. Servicing a clock means that it is taken apart, inspected, assessed, cleaned, wear issues noted and damage due to abuse or failed parts is addressed.

What to look for

Normally clocks in my collection are inspected on a 3-4 year cycle. I will open them up and check the condition of the movement and if dry, re-oil. If I notice a particular clock stops occasionally and I find need to investigate, I will service it simply as a prudent measure. Clocks that stop occasionally are sending a clear message they require servicing.

If I notice that I am not getting full power during the clock’s designed running cycle I will investigate. For example, if a clock consistently stops at day 4 or 5 of its eight-day cycle this tells me that the movement might be very dirty or that there are worn parts causing the clock to stop prematurely.

I generally take the movement out of the case for inspection. As I inspect the movement I look for green or black residue around the pivots which indicate a more serious problem. It is at that point that dirt and other contaminants are mixing with the clock oil and producing an abrasive paste. This paste plays havoc with bushing holes and pivots.

The movement must be inspected closely and at a minimum, disassembled and cleaned. Once disassembled I will inspect parts for wear and determine if the wear should be addressed immediately or at some point in the future.

Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock stopped and after a cleaning runs much better

Let’s look at some factors that affect wear on a movement.

The clock’s environment

The local environment is the greatest factor affecting the life of a mechanical clock. In today’s homes, humidity and temperature can be controlled very effectively. However, there are always occasions in the year when the windows are open causing humidity to rise in a home. A clock may run faster or slower if there are changes in the home’s humidity as wood and metal expand and contract. Constant temperature and humidity in the home environment will definitely improve a clock’s performance.

Older homes with poor insulation have environments that are more difficult to control especially in kitchen areas where clocks are exposed to higher humidity and particulates from cooking. Clocks in homes with a wood heat stove tend to attract dust (though most modern wood stoves are well sealed) and the presence of pets will shorten the lifespan of clock pivots.

Dog and cat hair in suspension will get into the workings of a mechanical clock by wrapping around the pivots. Eventually, it is the reason the clock requires servicing.

I use an Excel spreadsheet and record any changes I make to a clock in my collection

The amount of dirt and dust (and animal hair) entering the movement is determined by how well the clock case is sealed. There is a very good reason why you should have an access door on the back of your mantel clock and if it is missing it should be replaced. Movements in high quality, well-sealed cases will run many years with minimum maintenance.

U M Muller box clock, and example of high-quality case construction

What are the signs that something is amiss

Spring driven time and strike clocks typically exhibit more wear on strike side pivots due to the hourly striking action. Yet clocks, especially American time and strike ones, will tolerate pivot wear and still run reasonably well if very worn.

It is very common to install many new bushings on an American clock. But sometimes I come across a movement where one side is much more worn than the other. I recently worked on a movement that required six bushings on the time side but none on the strike side. Evidently, a previous owner was bothered by the noise and the strike side was rarely wound.

With chiming clocks, the chime train is first to respond to additional friction caused by dried oils and dirt. The additional complexity of the chime side means that more parts are subject to wear. The chime will eventually slow down then stop altogether.

Fleet Time Westminster chime mantel clock circa the 1940s

If your weight-driven clock stops before its designed cycle, check for twisted cables around the winding drum and ensure that it is correctly in beat. Otherwise, a weight-driven clock does not tolerate pivot wear well and will need to be taken apart to investigate for that and other possible issues.

Sits without running

What happens when a mechanical clock sits without running? Time and environment are the biggest enemy – not operation. The only deterioration on an unused clockwork would be the oil as the oil will thicken and break down over time. Many clockmakers claim that synthetic oil is less prone to breaking down, something to consider for your prized mechanical clock if you do not plan to run it regularly.

Parts that are not moving for extended periods of time tend to fuse, and rust builds up faster particularly in high humidity environments. All mechanical things age better when running occasionally and so my advice is to let parts move from time to time. Run your valued mantel clock at least once per month to give it the exercise it needs.

This Schatz triple chime clock is “exercised” once per month

The environment in my home is controlled, the temperature is constant, the humidity is low and we do not have pets much like a museum environment. Having said that, I continue to schedule a health check on my clocks as a preventative measure.

I use an Excel spreadsheet to track and record any changes I make to a clock including information on service intervals and issues regarding the servicing of each clock in my collection. I want my clocks to last and some I would like to pass on to my children.

June 15, 2020

Restoring an 1850s Scottish tall clock case – Part II

Restoring the case of an 1850s period Scottish tall case clock with an English bell strike is the subject of this blog. This is Part II of a two-part series. Check out Part I here.

While the case was made in Scotland, the movement, dial and weights are all from Birmingham, England made at or before 1850. The clock was in fair condition when I bought it from an estate auction early in 2020, though I knew almost immediately that structural repairs and cosmetic fixes were necessary. My work was cut out for me.

It is rare to find a clock from this period that has not been subject to minor or even major repairs/changes over the years, some acceptable, others questionable

In Part I, I addressed age cracks, a cracked backboard and attaching a backboard to the waist section. In this, Part II, I will continue with installing new door pins, fashioning a missing right rear foot, cleaning the case and overall case refinishing.

New door pins

Both upper and lower door pins were missing. I considered what I would use as pins. Wood screws could work.

I cut the heads off two 3/4 inch steel wood screws and threaded each screw into the existing holes at the top and bottom of the frame. They are more than strong enough to hold the bonnet access door and appear authentic.

I learned that the poured cement on my basement floor is not level. It took me a 1/2 hour of crawling on the basement floor to find a perfectly level area

Continue reading “Restoring an 1850s Scottish tall clock case – Part II” →

June 11, 2020

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I am always on the lookout for clock repair books but sadly most of what I have has gone out of publication years ago although some can be found in the sections of used books on Amazon

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It’s an 1870 Waterbury clock, it’s not in the best shape but it seems so sad to see family heirloom that’s was passed down over the years just tossed aside

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I try to minimize wrestling with American time and strike movement so that once I have the top plate on I loosely attach the bottom two screws and move to the time side because the strike side wheels and levers can be the most frustrating to position correctly and are left to the last

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”my poor clock needs a good servicing and cleaning. It runs slow, eg. I set it and would it on Sunday and by Friday it’s about 14 minutes slow, about 2-3 minutes per day, and it needs new hands”

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I always make it a point to mark the time side wheel and mainspring so as not to confuse the two

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However, on day 6 of the weekly cycle, the clock would stop and always on day 6. Why?

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Later Pequegnat movements, such as this one, have steel plates with brass bushing inserts while older Pequegnat movement plates were nickle plated brass

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Talk to any clockmaker. Many save parts from clocks beyond repair for future use

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I use an Excel spreadsheet and record any changes I make to a clock in my collection

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It is rare to find a clock from this period that has not been subject to minor or even major repairs/changes over the years, some acceptable, others questionable

I learned that the poured cement on my basement floor is not level. It took me a 1/2 hour of crawling on the basement floor to find a perfectly level area

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