I originally assumed this clock was a Seth Thomas since it had a Seth Thomas movement. After a thorough search on the web, I concluded that this was not a Seth Thomas case. I searched for clocks made by other clockmakers, starting with E.N Welch, Ansonia (because it is similar in style to the Syria), Gilbert, Sessions and finally Waterbury. The term “Waterbury cabinet clock” generated some hits. I found one on an auction site then, two more. I now have a case made by a different maker than the movement and in clock circles this is called a marriage.
The case is a Waterbury model called the “Wren”. I found three Wren models, two with paper dials and one with the identical dial pan as this clock. It may well be that this dial pan is original to the case.
Despite the fact that it is a marriage I might keep it. The case is attractive and the movement fits the case, although both the centre hole and regulator hole over the 12 look to have been bored out and not in a tidy way.
The dial has been cleaned and repainted.
Cleaned and repainted dial
Now to the case. It Stands 13 1/8″ Tall By 12 5/8″ Wide And 5 1/2″ deep. As of this writing if you search for this model you might see one or two without the top crown. It is easily detached and no surprise that it might go missing.
Crooked finial
The case is in good shape with no parts missing however, the top finial on the right is not correctly aligned with the bottom column which I did not notice till I began cleaning the case. Evidently it had detached in the past and a past repairer glued it back not noticing the misalignment. It was simple matter of prying the finial off, regluing and centering it.
Two other pieces had to be reglued, a support piece for the crown and crosspiece in the back for one of the sides of the crown.
I cleaned the case with Murphy’s soap and following the scrubbing I decided that there was enough shellac worn off that a fresh coat would make the case much more appealing.
Finial is reattached and straighter
New coat of shellac
I applied traditional shellac, mixing amber flakes and alcohol with a broad artists brush. In the next shot you can see the difference between the left side of the crown and the right. I now have the option of leaving the finish as-is or aging it by “dulling” it with 4X0 steel wool.
Crown section
In the next photo is the completed case.
To me it is a huge improvement.
All this is being done while the movement is undergoing testing and once the testing is complete the two, the case and the movement will be “married” again.
Now if I can find the matching glass and bezel it will be complete.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face, a clock you would like me to profile, my advice on your particular clock concern or a general clock question. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
CL writes:
“Hi Ron,
I was hoping you could help me identify a clock I purchased at an estate sale this weekend for $10. The back of the wall pendulum clock has a intact paper label with a full size standing Ostrich and the letters H H S N. Stamped on the workings is 45/100 and 27583 It is a 4 chime clock.
That is all of the identifying marks.
Any information you have would be helpful.
I did find one post on a site called Worth Point about a clock that had HHS N (Hermann Heinrich Straussj of Nurenberg)
STORAGE AUCTION FIND IN UNIT I WON IN AUCTION! If you search journeymagazine on eBay’s Discussion boards under Watches, Clocks & Timepieces I asked about this antique clock movement with the initials HHS N – and got 2 responses. First is a link that shows HHS N is a very rare clock movement that was part of the historical clock & watch exhibition in Nuremberg 1905 (Below)The 2nd is a link to a Mauthe that had HHS N clock movement in it.A VERY RARE CLOCK MOVEMENT FOR THE COLLECTOR OUT THERE!NOTE: I don’t have a key + I don’t know clock movements, so I don’t know if it works – Ask Any Questions or for more Photos – SOLD AS IS!FROM LINK GIVEN ME ON DISCUSSION BOARD: H.H.S.N. was a mark for the firm of Herm.[ann] Heinr.[ich] Strau [ =ss], of N rnberg. The only information in Abeler’s _Meister der Uhrmacherkunst_, the standard ref. for clockmakers in the German speaking tradions, is “erw. Hist. Uhrenauustell., N rnberg 1905.” In other words, they were mentioned in some connection with the historical clock & watch exhibition in N that year (in celebration of the 400th anniversary of the invention of the pocket watch (so they said) by Peter Henlein aka Petrus Hele. There were lots of firms represented, new and old clocks exhbited, etc. There’s a dozen or so small-print pages on this exhibition in several issues of the 1905 _
Thanks for your time.”
My reply:
“Hi CL
Thank you for coming to my blog.
This is a German “box” clock style from the late 1920s. The letters HHSN stand for Hermann-Heinrich Strauss, Nürnberg. Strauss in German means Ostrich. This company were clock dealers who are thought to have used Mauthe movements (and others) in their clocks. They went out of business in the late 1920s. Your clock could have been made by almost any of the big German firms at the time, Mauthe, Kienzle, Junghans etc. The movement looks like a Mauthe and that makes perfect sense. 45 refers to the length in centimetres of the pendulum (17.7 inches) while the number 100 refers to the beats per minute. 27583 is a production number and the first two digits are likely the year the clock was made.
4 -rods mean the movement will produce a very nice bim-bam strike if the hammers are aligned correctly on each of the strike rods.
It is a clock worth preserving and a steal for the price you paid.
Hope this helps
Ron”
CL replies:
“Ron,
Thank you for this knowledge! I appreciate the quick reply. I look forward to getting it cleaned and hung on our wall.”
The past year has been like nothing we have ever experienced in our lifetime. Routines, relationships and plans were upset and with them major adjustments have had to be made. The situation is improving day by day, folks are re-establishing their routines, the country is opening up and things will no doubt return to normal in the months to come and with it a new definition of normal.
How will future generations define this dark period of our lives?
The lake our Shangri-La
It is time to relax, slow down and for my wife and I that means a change of scenery as we travel to our cottage in central Canada to spend the summer season with friends and family. Our get-away plan for the summer is to relax with a few good books, do a little fishing, swimming, hiking and exchange stories with friends and neighbours over a glass (or more) of wine.
Since many of my articles have been written well in advance of the summer months there will be NO interruption in blog posts through the summer months. I will continue to maintain a steady output of 7 to 9 clock blog articles per month.
An Ansonia cottage clock with the dial removed for testing and spaghetti for lunch
Keep those cards letters coming as 1960s TV variety host Dean Martin used to say. There may be a slight delay returning your email inquiry or responding to blog post comments but rest assured that question(s) about your clock or comments regarding any of my posts are important to me and will be answered.
Roasting marshmallows
This blog profiles my own clock collection, the challenges of maintaining and repairing clocks, the joys of finding new and interesting vintage and antique clocks plus many articles of horological interest.
As we explore central Canada I will no doubt find interesting clocks as we scour antique stores, flea markets and junk shops. New clock stories, new repair challenges and perhaps the next major restoration project will also be part of my journey this summer.
Canadian Clock Museum, Deep River Ontario
Included will be a trip to The Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario to discover new and interesting clocks added to their collection and chat with curator Allan Symons.
Use the search box to browse past articles and/or click “follow” to have clock articles brought to your mailbox every three to four days. I hope you enjoy reading them as much as I enjoy researching each and every article.
I was attracted to the style of this clock but disappointed when I learned that it was a marriage of a Waterbury case with a Seth Thomas movement. Briefly, a marriage is when parts from two different makers come together.
Buying a clock from a flea market, antique mall, a shop or what have you is always a gamble. On this particular clock there is no trademark or name on the dial or a label in the back of the case that told me who the maker was. I made an assumption and it was an impulse buy.
Glass and bezel are from a later clock
While at the antique store I opened the back of the case to confirm that the clock had a movement and it was complete with pendulum bob and coiled gong and to me everything appeared correct until I brought it home. My first thought was an Ansonia movement when I looked at it under the dim light of the store.
Seth Thomas and other makers made similar cabinet style cases but this is the Wren by the Waterbury Clock Company. Being a marriage, the clock is worth much less to those particular about such matters. No matter, it looks attractive.
I can imagine a past owner’s conversation with the repair guy, I don’t care what you do, just make it work! And the repair guy responds by removing the very worn Waterbury movement and replacing it with a Seth Thomas. Easy peasy!
One of the current seller’s stickers on the case said it was a non-working clock but with minor adjustments, such as moving the pallets closer to the escape wheel and releasing the time-side mainspring, I had it running in no time. There is not much wrong with the movement and a good cleaning plus a bushing or two should put things right.
So, what did I buy?
As I said, I like the case and it has a decent movement but when a clock is a marriage one can expect some questionable repairs and interesting changes as one takes things apart.
I am not absolutely certain the dial pan came with the case or was added later but the glass and bezel are certainly from a mid-century mantel clock. It is so ugly it will be tossed into the spare parts drawer. I will keep the dial pan but a piecrust bezel with flat glass is more appropriate for the period.
Piecrust dial on a 6-column mantel clock
Seth Thomas time and strike 8-day movement
I removed the dial and discovered a number of extra screw holes here and there, varying lengths of screws, some screw holes filled with pieces of wood, even a couple of Robertson screws (not invented until after the First War) and so on. Obviously the replacement movement required new holes and why not drill a few extra holes for good measure!
The hole on the dial just above the 12 is larger than it should be. It was either enlarged to accommodate the regulating arbour or it’s a new hole altogether.
On a positive note both the case and the movement are from a similar period.
Disassembling the movement
But this post is about servicing the movement.
I am impressed with the engineering of this Seth Thomas movement. It is robust and well-designed though it has an interesting, overly complicated, speed regulating feature.
From my research I found that the hip style movement is the type 44 which was used for a 12 year period beginning in 1890. In 1903 it was presumably replaced with the type 89 movement, simpler to manufacture, fewer parts and more reliable, and appeared in many thousands of ST mantel clocks afterwards. It has a sickle shaped brass piece between the plates so that the clock can be turned backwards repeatedly at the hour to sync the strike with the hands. It is technically called a set-back counter weight.
Brass piece indicated by arrow
Regulating arbour with worm gear on one end
There were variations of this movement, front winding movements as opposed to rear winding, with and without the worm gear speed regulator and some with stop works. This movement does not have Geneva stops.
It took me more time than usual to pry open the plates because I was slowed down by the intricacy of regulating mechanism. Part of the mechanism consists of a long arbour that passes from the front plate to the back plate. At one end is a worm gear and on the other is the regulating end. It is secured to the outside of the front plate by means of a spring with a pin through the arbour. To release the arbour, the pin must be pulled and the spring releases.
Well, actually the spring flew across the room. No problem, I’m used to crawling on the floor looking for clock parts.
I have worked on a lot of American time and strike movements but this type of regulating mechanism is a first for me. In fact, the set-back counter weight is also a first for me.
Analysis of the movement
The movement has had 12 bushings installed, 5 on the front plate and 7 on the back. The work is well done but I don’t like the arrows scratched into the plate indicating where each bushing would be installed. I use a Sharpie pen and after I have completed the bushing work I wipe the marks off with alcohol. There is no need to mar the plates.
Arrow indicating scratch mark below bushing
After looking over the movement carefully I can see there is enough wear in some bushings that they must be replaced, both second wheels, front plate, the governor, both front and back and the escape wheel bridge bushing which for some reason has punch marks around it, the only unsightly repair.
Escape wheel and bridge
The mainsprings look to be in good shape and still bears the original ST trademarks. No worn gear teeth and the pivots, plus the lantern pinions are all in great shape.
All in all, not bad for a movement that was last serviced quite a number of years ago.
Strike side of ST movement
The pivots were polished and next is the bushing work. Two were interesting to say the least.
The count count wheel and the strike pin wheel are side by side. A bushing was required for the pin wheel but I could not access it from inside the plate. This is one of those few times when drilling from the outside is the only way however, I was able to push the bushing home from the inside plate. It is one of those situation where you have to stand back, analysis the problem and consider a strategy. It worked.
The second was the escape wheel bridge. To stabilize the bridge a 5-step block jig comes in handy. Otherwise, it is very difficult to keep the bridge steady and drill a straight hole.
% level job block used for an escape wheel bridge
The drilling went fine until the last 3.47 mm cutter. When I began to drill out the hole the old bushing came out. I knew right away that the new bushing would not have a tight fit. Evidently a past repairer had the same problem.
staking set
The block from a staking set is a useful tool. With it I was able to lay the plate down on it and punch the bushing from the inside to stabilize it.
Once together everything fell into place or so I thought. Unfortunately, I will have to take it apart again because I forgot the regulating worm gear which can only be installed with the plates separated. The movement will run perfectly fine without it, but it is part of the clock.
How far do you go repairing, restoring or conserving a vintage or antique clock without changing it in a significant way?
My daughter. a civil engineer raised the philosophical argument that questions whether an object like a clock that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object. This paradoxical thought exercise is called the Ship of Theseus. Plutarch, a Greek philosopher, asked whether a ship that had been restored by replacing every single wooden part remained the same ship.
The ship wherein Theseus and the youth of Athens returned from Crete had thirty oars, and was preserved by the Athenians down even to the time of Demetrius Phalereus, for they took away the old planks as they decayed, putting in new and stronger timber in their places, in so much that this ship became a standing example among the philosophers, for the logical question of things that grow; one side holding that the ship remained the same, and the other contending that it was not the same. Plutarch, Theseus[2]
Think about it! If something is fundamentally changed is it the same object?
One of our proud provincial symbols in Nova Scotia is a sailing ship called the Bluenose II, our provincial ambassador. The original Bluenose was a fishing and racing schooner that ran aground and sank 90 years ago. To honour the original Bluenose, the Bluenose II was built in the 1960s and sailed for over 50 years until it was determined that she was not seaworthy.
Bluenose II, Peggy’s Cove (photo, NS government, used for educational purposes)
In 2018 the hull of the Bluenose II was rebuilt with new materials. Some items such as rigging, masts, sails, ironwork, deck structures, safety equipment, and electronics were reused. Part of the timeline for future repair involves replacing the masts, sails, rigging, and deck structures. Will the ship retain its identity? To purists, no! To Nova Scotians, yes!
Let’s go beyond the nautical example and apply our example to the lantern clock.
The lantern clock is a clock with a lantern-shaped brass case made for about a century after 1630 or so. Most had one hand, all were weight-driven with a bell on top and sat on a wall bracket. They were the first type of clock widely used in English private homes in the 17th century. Eventually, the lantern clock became obsolete when tall case clocks came into fashion.
Converted lantern clock
Lantern clocks are highly collectible today and those that are in “original” condition are the most desirable. But, almost all of them have been altered, even those considered “genuine”. Check out this quote from a sellerof lantern clocks, D. and J. Benson, who are specialists in early English clocks.
We are strong believers that if a clock was converted to a different escapement many years ago, this should be retained, being part of the history of the clock, rather than reconverting clocks back to former guises. Only under compelling circumstances would a clock be returned to a former state. Only absolutely necessary restoration work is carried out in order that the original clock survives for future generations. We conserve rather than replace. D& J Benson
“Compelling circumstances”. Important provenance, perhaps?
Early conversions were from verge to anchor escapement. Later ones had the original movements removed and a fusee movement (single or double) installed. When converted, original movements including alarm mechanisms were taken out, a single-hand was replaced with two hands (or the minute hand added), broken finals and door handles might have replaced, chapter rings re-silvered, doors lost due to their nature of lifting out easily. Therefore, what is the nature of the clock after it has been changed, and how original is it? Does it retain its identity? To purists, no! To the casual collector, yes!
Let’s see how this philosophical argument plays out:
If too much is done to restore a clock is it fundamentally the same and is it considered original even though new parts were made from the same materials using the same methods when the clock was first made?
Do changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original”?
If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock?
If you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity?
This is the dilemma of identity. One more example!
In 2016 I acquired my first weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock. As I worked on the clock I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years such as the brass bezel, hands, glass panels, weights, and even the movement. Although the changes were part of the history of the clock I began to accept the notion that it is what it is and to a casual observer, it looks authentic.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
Minimal Invasive Intervention
The term minimal invasive intervention means how far do you go to repair, restore or conserve a clock without changing it in a significant way? Some say that any work performed on an antique clock would diminish its value. Going too far to repair a clock and it begins to lose its attraction and value as a collectable object.
Is a “true collector” more interested in a movement that has never been worked on or one that has been repaired or restored? While it is always desirable to have a running clock most concede that to make a movement actually work, intervention must be accepted (bushing and pivot reconstruction, for example). The question remains; if I want the clock to function, what is the least I can do without changing it in a significant way?
Repair, Restoration, Conservation
Repair; to rectify the faults of a clock in a way that might alter it from its original form (gear replacement, pivot work, bushing work, replacement of some parts)
Restoration; the reconstruction of the movement and clock case to original condition.
Conservation; the protection of a clock using any methods that prove effective in keeping that article in as close to its original condition as possible for as long as possible.
Any amount of intervention is frowned upon by some collectors while some amount of intervention is not only necessary but desired by others and while collectors are always searching for a completely untouched clock, an antique clock in pristine condition that has never been meddled with is a rare find.
Questions, questions, questions…
Is undoing the “damage” caused by a previous poor repair an overly invasive procedure?
If the repair was done shortly after the clock was made and it was a proper repair, was clearly documented as markings inside the clock case, should it be left untouched? (example, a wheel that has a rough tooth repair but functions well). Is the poor repair part of the clock’s historical provenance and should it be left as-is?
Would bringing the movement back to its original state be considered a restoration or a repair?
Will a repair enhance or decrease the value of the clock?
Is a repair or restoration a form of conservation?
My position regarding changes to a clock
My goal is a functional clock that presents well. A non-working clock must become a working clock because that is the nature of its existence. If a clock has important provenance and extensive repairs to the movement and/or case alter it in a negative way and I will leave it alone. But I will always clean a clock case (unless otherwise directed) because as one clockmaker I know put it, “isn’t patina just another word for dirt!”.
When working on a customer’s clock I recommend presenting several options regarding the repair of the movement and addressing case issues. This past year I worked on a customer clock and asked what they wanted to be done. It had a beautifully designed case but a non-functioning movement. Make the clock run they said and replace the broken hands but don’t touch the case even though in my view the case could have used a good cleaning and a fresh coat of shellac. I did what was requested. Is the customer right? Yes!
I will leave you with two examples.
Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian
The bob wire that came with a clock appears to be a section of coat hanger wire. Replace it with a proper adjustable bob wire?
On a movement with pinned plates one of the pins is a finishing nail. Replace it with a brass taper pin?
Hell, yes on both counts!
In some circles, this trivial examples like these will provoke a heated argument. Is there a correct answer? Put twelve clockmakers in a room and you will have a thirteen opinions.
7 reasons why a hobby such as clockmaking gives respite during a pandemic.
Builds self-esteem. Developing and maintaining a hobby is important because the small successes from day to day are enough to sustain oneself amid other pressures in life and it is the one solid thing to feel good about. It gives renewed energy to tackle other challenges in life.
Dial face, Scottish tall case clock C.1848
Avoid boredom. There is zero scientific evidence of this but boredom is responsible for a lot of society’s ills and destructive behaviours. Do you come home after a challenging workday to watch hours of TV when you could be doing something constructive and rewarding? If so, it is time to re-evaluate your life.
Junghans Sydney shelf clock C.1911
Enrich your perspective. There is an old adage: “The more you know, the more you grow”. Any opportunity to learn something new, to be challenged anew, is great for character-building by seeing the world through refreshed eyes. Clockmaking or any hobby helps one differentiate from others and provides key examples of overcoming adversity or tackling a difficult situation and emerging on the other side.
American Watch and Clock Collectors Museum, USA
Keeps you youthful. Establishing and maintaining a hobby is a healthy habit to form not just now but for your later years. Hobbies are excellent for brain health and help stave off cognitive decline. The older you become the more difficulty you will have struggling to fill your time with meaningful activities. Beginning a hobby early in life pays dividends in the long run much like an interest-bearing investment.
Schatz W3 bracket clock C. 1950s
Combine your hobby with other interests. Photography and traveling are two other of my interests. Blogging is another, of course. Clockmaking combines all of those interests and as a side benefit my wife, who is also my travel partner and clock locator, provides encouragement every day.
Westclox LaSalle alarm clock C. 1934
It makes one interesting. Talk about your occupation or your grandchild and before long people’s eyes begin to glaze, but mention a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion, a clock that hung in a railway station nearby, a rare clock bought for next to nothing and ears perk up.
Junghans Crispi wall clock, C.1898
A great way to relieve stress. Hobbies provide stress relief simply because it is an oasis, a way of disconnecting temporarily and we all need a place of refuge in trying times.
Mauthe wall clock circa 1895
We are nearing the end of the pandemic and folks are returning to their former routines. If you have found a new hobby in the past year there is no doubt you have certainly acquired new skills, renewed confidence and furthered your knowledge. Don’t stop now!
Servicing the movement is complete. Next is the case.
For those unfamiliar with the HAC acronym, it stands for Hamburg American Clock Company, a well-known German company that was acquired by Junghans in the late 1920s. I have a number of German clocks including Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection. This clock dates to somewhere between 1900 and 1908.
Here is the auction photo of the clock.
HAC mantel clock (reproduced with permission)
As you can see there is some wear as expected from a 100+-year-old clock. The dial is especially grimy.
I focused on the dial first, managing to remove most of the grime while retaining its patina. Plus I touched up the numbers and chapter ring. There were numerous scratch marks on the dial surround and I did my best to clean it up and make it more presentable but it is what it is. Check out this article for more information on cleaning the dial.
HAC clock is attractive but the dial required a lot of work
Stripping a case is always the last resort in my view. There is visible wear on the bottom corners, the lower part of the columns, and column capitals but not enough to justify removing the finish.
I cleaned the case with Murphy’s soap, applied 2 coats of shellac using 4X0 steel wool between coats followed by a coat of Minwax finishing wax.
HAC mantel clock
Better but not perfect but perfect was never my goal. Now, where to put it?
Eight years ago I acquired my first Arthur Pequegnat clock. In the years following, I have added to my collection and now have a total of 8. Although my collection of Pequegnat clocks is very modest by comparison to a dedicated Pequegant collector it is a good start and I would certainly like to add to that number in the future.
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest-lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. They made a wide variety of different styled clocks from 1904 through to 1941 from shelf and mantel clocks to wall clocks and floor models.
Nickle-plated steel or brass plates
Unfortunately, it is very difficult to date a Pequegnat clock, except for what is termed pre and post-Berlin, the location of the company’s manufacturing plant. Clocks made before 1917 were inscribed “Berlin, Canada” on the dial face. Kitchener, Ontario was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 then the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916.
Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the town fathers decided the name Kitchener was less offensive and the change was made midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario, Canada.
Most Arthur Pequegant clock movements are stamped with the company name but there are no date marks on movements indicating when it was made. Clocks made after the First War wore the company name plus Canada under the number 6 on the dial face. For example, clocks such at the Canadian Time were made from 1904 to 1941 and are separated in age by the Berlin label consequently, my Canadian Time wall clock with the Canada label could be as old as 104 or as “new” as 80 years old.
One distinctive feature on many movements is the use of nickel plating for both brass and steel plates.
Arthur Pequegnat Company name
Many models continued in production right up to 1941. By 1941, the demands of World War II armament makers for brass, the essential ingredient in clock movements as well as the growing popularity of the electric clock, forced the Arthur Pequegnat company to cease production.
And now, beginning with the first clock acquired in 2013.
The Canadian Time
My first Pequegant, purchased in September 2013 hung in the Intercolonial Rail Station waiting room in Pictou, Nova Scotia.
Canadian Time
The seller arranged the purchase of the clock just prior to the station’s decommissioning in 1993. It is in very good condition, missing its door clasp but otherwise intact. There are a few scratches and nicks consistent with its age but nothing objectionable.
The Brandon (2nd edititon)
I found this clock in an antique shop just outside Truro, Nova Scotia in 2014.
Arthur Pequegant Brandon II
The case is in excellent condition but the movement was quite worn. Had I known more about servicing clocks at the time of purchase I would not have sent it to a clock repair specialist. It is one of two in my Pequegant collection serviced by someone other than myself. This is the Brandon II. The Brandon 1, the first edition, was made prior to 1918, and had an ornate pressed wood bezel. This one is simpler in design.
The Maple Leaf “Fan-top”
Next came my first Maple Leaf kitchen clock, known for its unique lower tablet of scattered maple leaves and a distinctive maple leaf pendulum.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock
This clock, bought in 2015, was also serviced by a clock professional. The case was in very poor condition. Stripping a case is an absolute last resort as far as I’m concerned but the finish on this clock was pretty bad. I could not leave it as it was.
The finish on a Pequegnat fan-top clock
To Pequegnat collectors, it is known as the fan-top.
The Simcoe
Three years later, the Simcoe followed me home. It was bought at an antique shop in Victoria, British Columbia in 2018.
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock
It is not particularly attractive. It is the only mantel clock in my Pequegnat collection and it is from the “Berlin” period.
The Bedford
2018 was a good year because I acquired 4 Pequegnat clocks. This was number two of that year.
Bedford shelf clock
This clock was gifted to me by a reader. He asked if I wanted the clock but I had to pick it up in Quebec which was on our way to a summer cottage in central Canada. The movement was in very good condition but the case was damaged having taken a plunge off a high shelf.
The movement was serviced without issue but the case required extensive intervention.
The third purchase that year and the fifth in my collection is the Maple Leaf Pointed Top
The Maple Leaf “Pointed Top”
There are 4 Maple Leaf clocks made by Pequegnat. Any version of the Maple Leaf is sought after by Canadian collectors but this one has distinctive pointed side columns, hence the nickname.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf Pointed Top
Although termed a kitchen clock it could easily have been placed in a living room or parlour.
The Moncton
The last 2018 acquisition was a clock that I had in the back of my mind for quite some time and I was waiting for the right price. This is an excellent copy that is very presentable and looks great on our kitchen wall.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton
It is a post-Berlin double spring time-only 15-day clock. Many were used in rail stations despite the fact that they were spring-driven. Weight-driven clocks were preferred for their accuracy but the Moncton was up to the task as a timekeeper.
And the last.
The Canuck
This is the only true Pequegant “gingerbread” clock in my view.
Canuck kitchen clock
The case was refreshed and the dial was redone. The movement was also serviced without issue.
Cleaned up more presentable
These are all keepers. Most Pequegants have kept their value over the years and in Canada, they are regarded as quality clocks for the masses. They were well built, well-designed movements with a distinctive Canadian charm as many were named after cities in Canada.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face, a clock you would like me to profile, my advice on your particular clock concern or a general clock question. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
Photo attached to KBs email
KB writes, “Hi Ron, I have been following your blog with interest, I have a a interesting collection of clocks, longcase, carriage and mantle. I am now in the process of restoring them. I need some help with bushing, can you please tell me how you do this. Many Thanks”
My reply
“You can hand bush, use a drill press or a bushing machine such as the Bergeon Bushing machine as demonstrated in this video. The bushing work is at the 6:40 point of the video if you want to skip ahead.
Clock collecting from a beginner’s perspective. That was the subject of my first blog post six years ago. Since then I have seen a lot of excellent and not-so-good blogs come and go but I wanted to give it my best shot and after 6 years, well, I am still here.
I started with a free WordPress plan, moved to a personal plan and then, this year, to a Premium plan. I now permit advertising on my site but my only goal is to recoup costs for server space and domain name. Anything extra is gravy.
In the early days I would stop blogging in the summer and resume in the fall. That did not work so well as my viewership fell off and I had to rebuild after the holidays. Now I schedule all my articles in advance. In fact, I typically have about 15-18 articles “in the can” at any given time. Having an inventory of articles means there is no need to scramble with something new every 3-4 days, my typical interval between articles. Some of you bloggers must know how hard it is to put words together when inspiration is lacking.
I am not sure what I was expecting 6 years ago but now have a dedicated following, receive many interesting letters each week, have met people through my blog and it seems people appreciate my content. This is reflected in statistics which are the lifeblood of any blog and it’s those daily figures that keep a blogger motivated. For instance, I have more views in a typical day than I had in the first 3 months of my blog.
Not once do I claim to be a professional horologist but after 10+ years in clock repair as a hobbyist I think I know something by now.
Welcome to my first blog post written May 15, 2015 which I will present word for word.
OK, so it’s a Chinese clock but it works
I regard myself as a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a unique talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.
It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock. Why start with a Chinese-made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. It was cheap, it piqued my interest in collecting and repair and it was something to practice on. I then moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, known as the “Fan-top”
My blog will profile clocks in my collection both vintage and antique as well as describe my attempts at repair. Along the way I will seek advice from you, the reader, from clock forum sites and whatever information I can find online.
Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock
Clock collecting is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling (and now, writing). Locating good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia and Canada, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting that one-of-a-kind deal.
Most photos on this site are my own. Photos from other sources will be given full credit. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical wonders and anything about their provenance will included as well.
Forestville Westminster chime mantel clock
Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I hope to share my frustrations and my successes.
As Winston Churchill once said, “Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm”.
I have stayed true to form since then and continue to publish 7 to 9 articles per month. Since then I have acquired dozens of antique and vintage clocks from all over Canada and probably have upwards of 80 clocks in my collection at this point. I have also said goodbye to an additional 20 clocks through local sales and as gifts. It remains a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy although occasionally I have done some paid and pro bono work.
If you have stayed with me since the beginning, thank you, but if you are new to my blog or following for the first time, welcome!
This E. Ingraham & Co. clock is a garden variety parlour clock. There is nothing special about it but among parlour clocks, it has nice lines and reflects a more conservative approach to clock designs of the late 19th century. It is an 8-day time and strike clock purchased from a local antique store in the spring of 2019. I have recently serviced a number of clocks in preparation for sale and I also considered selling this one. While I am not in the business of selling clocks I will let go of the odd one to keep my collection manageable. My wife feels that it is a keeper though and I agree.
This was a running clock before I took it apart and my goal is to give it a good cleaning and address wear issues
Stamped in the middle of the front plate is “E Ingraham Co patent date Oct 8, 78 Nov 11, 79, Bristol Conn.” On the inside floor below the pendulum, it is stamped “Manufactured by the E. Ingraham & Co, Bristol Conn”. It was not a common practice to stamp the inside floor but it is an interesting feature.
E Ingraham parlour clock with Swigart dial
Tran Duy Ly’s book on Ingraham clocks shows this model, the Mystic, from the 1897 catalogue. The clock sold new for $6.50. Although found in the 1897 catalogue it might have been made some years earlier. Two numbers are neatly etched into the lower right-hand side of the front plate and they are H25,915 and H27,475. They look like service dates, Sept 1915 and April 1975.
There is a stylized “S” logo on the dial face. Some might mistakenly take it for a Sessions clock. The dial is a replacement made by E&J Swigart, a supplier of replacement dials along with other clock and watch supplies. Swigart went out of business in October of 1992. 1972 was the last year they made reproduction clock dials and this appears to roughly coincide with the 1975 service date.
Assessment of the movement
I have worked on a number of Ingraham movements, some with helper springs and some without. It looks to me that helper springs were added, which is not a bad thing and they will stay on the movement. Installing helper springs to ensure levers drop as they should is not an uncommon practice.
Normally these old movements are in varying degrees of wear and quite often there are punch marks around almost every pivot hole plus they are very dirty. This movement has had 13 bushings installed and is surprisingly clean for its age.
This was a running clock before I took it apart and my goal is to give it a good cleaning and address wear issues along the way. It might require some intervention but my first impression is that it looks very good.
Ingraham Mystic
I found a bent second wheel pivot on the strike side. Before blaming a previous repair it is possible that I was the culprit. Both mainsprings were clamped to restrain their power but when I removed the top plate a wheel sprung out from the strike side. Evidently, the strike side mainspring still had residual power remaining and might have bent the pivot. It was easily straightened.
The main and second wheels on both sides are inscribed for location, so, that is helpful. The strike side mainspring arbour hook has been repaired although the pin is loose and had to be secured. It also appears both mainsprings are replacements. The warning wheel lantern pinion shroud has also been repaired. The clutch on the motion works looks like a repair but I have seen at least one other Ingraham like it, so, I’m not sure.
Ingraham Mystic, warning wheel with additional punch marksIngraham Mystic, motion works clutch
This clock has had a lot of attention and has led an easy life. The repairs are neat and tidy and appear professionally done.
But there is some wear. The clock requires bushings on both the time side and the strike side. One on the time side and 3 on the strike side, one new, and 3 replacement bushings.
Reassembly and testing
The third wheel on the strike side is a combined locking and pin wheel with 2 locking pins and 2 hammer pins. There is no cam on this arbor, unlike many other American movements. The spaces between the pins allow for the drop lever to descend.
The count wheel is advanced by two protruding pins on the third wheel lantern shroud. It is necessary to ensure that the count wheel is firmly in place, not loose but not too tight, so the third wheel pins can advance the count. The warning wheel is set about half a revolution to set up the strike. During reassembly one of the two lock pins is placed on the locking lever, the end of which has a hook. This is to permit the count lever to go into one of the deep slots.
Since I have worked on a couple of Ingraham movements in the last month there was no need to separate the plates to make additional adjustments.
Unlike earlier Ingraham movements that have no passing strike on the half-hour, this has one.
It is on the test stand and I will let it run for a cycle or two before returning it to its case.
Ingraham Mystic on the test stand, beat amplifier attached
It’s really nice to work on a clock that has been so obviously well cared for. It will look great and run well though the only item that detracts from the clock is the Swigart replacement dial.
After having completed work on the case and dial pan of the Ingraham Grecian time and strike shelf clock it is now on to servicing the movement.
Ingraham Grecian refreshed case
Assessing the movement
The movement is in surprisingly good condition for its age. It has been serviced in the past, when, I don’t know. Here’s what I discovered during the inspection.
In an early servicing, 3 bushing holes were punched. Many years ago clock repairers used a punch to close pivot holes that had elongated after years of wear and it was considered an acceptable practice at that time. Not today!
The mainsprings and alarm spring appear to be original and the alarm mechanism showed no evidence of wear.
At a later point a clock repairer installed 3 brass bushings, 1 on the front plate and 2 on the backplate.
Pivots had been replaced on one end of the warning wheel and one end of the third wheel time-side.
The thin brass strap that trips the alarm has been re-riveted.
Ingraham Grecian, a replaced pivot, a very good job by a past repairer
The repairs were neat and professional.
But there were problems
While there were some decent repairs, someone attempted a homemade fix and it became a non-working clock. I suppose that is to be expected from a clock that is 149 years as it passes through several hands.
It appears that the clock was eventually passed on to someone who had little knowledge of things mechanical. It might have been simply out of beat and an attempt was made to adjust the crutch by twisting the crutch loop around the pendulum leader. I can only assume that in their attempt to access the mechanism to “fix” it, the dial and brass bezel were damaged in the process.
Without impulse the clock would run a minute and stop and would never run in that condition.
I reshaped the crutch loop and bent the crutch slightly to achieve a healthy beat and the clock began to run.
While the clock was running I discovered a bent escape wheel tooth. It was running despite this issue, but the verge would occasionally skip the bent tooth. A bent tooth is often the direct result of transporting a clock without removing the pendulum bob.
Servicing the alarm
There is not much to the alarm mechanism. Three pins hold the 2 small plates. I doubt this alarm was used much, It was taken apart, parts cleaned in the ultrasonic, reassembled and oiled.
Ingraham Grecian, the alarm mechanism
Servicing the movement
After letting down the mainsprings and disassembling the movement the first order of business is to straighten the bent escape wheel tooth. The trick is to “draw out” the tooth out with a pair of smooth flat jawed pliers. It is important not to stretch the tooth as this will introduce other escapement issues. Unbending the tooth is a simple procedure but a disaster if things go wrong.
Ingraham Grecian, a clean movement with a small amount of wear
Next is the inspection of pivots, lantern pinions, wheel teeth, arbours, cut pinions, of which there are two in the motion works. All looked good. The gears were meshing well on both time side and the strike side.
Ingraham Grecian, checking the strike side for wear
Following the inspection is parts cleaning in the ultrasonic machine. Once the parts are dry I inspected the movement more closely for any issues I might have missed. Next is polishing the pivots.
Once the pivots are polished it is time for bushing work if required. In the case of this movement 2 are required for the front plate and 3 for the back. On the backplate, one of the bushings is the escape wheel bridge.
Ingraham Grecian, bushing the escape wheel bridge
There were two other pivot holes that were iffy and okay for now but since I am keeping the clock it will be inspected in 3 or 4 years for wear.
Reassembly comments
The third wheel on the strike side is a combined locking and pin wheel with 2 locking pins and 2 hammer pins. There is no cam, unlike many other American movements. The spaces between the pins allow for the drop lever to descend.
The fourth wheel is the warning wheel only and it is not used for locking.
Unlike later Ingraham movements that have a passing strike on the half-hour, this is an hour strike only.
Ingraham Grecian, the inside pins are for the strike hammer
The count wheel is advanced by two protruding pins on the third wheel lantern shroud, another unusual feature. It is important to ensure that the count wheel is firmly in place, not loose but not too tight, so the third wheel pins can advance the count. The stiffness can be adjusted by bending the brass clip on the count wheel.
During reassembly, the warning wheel is set about half a revolution to prepare for the strike. Also during reassembly one of the two lock pins is placed on the locking lever, the end of which has a hook. This is to permit the count lever to go into one of the deep slots.
Ingraham Grecian movement on the test stand
Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get it right. Usually, I must make an adjustment or two after the plates are together but I was lucky the first time.
Ingraham Grecian shelf clock C.1871
When I finished servicing the movement the new hands arrived from a supplier. So, here it is with new hands attached and the movement back in the case.
Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo (with permission)
This attractive shelf clock was bought on an online auction in early January 2021. From the auction photos, I expected a clock that required attention and now, having received it, I am pleasantly surprised that it is in better condition than I thought.
Under the auction studio light (first photo), the case might appear to look reasonably good. Closeup, there is a lot of oily dirt and grime. Servicing the movement will wait for another day. Restoring the case and dial is first.
The vibrant grain of rosewood is there, underneath the grime
Restoration of the case and dial pan
The design of the E. Ingraham Grecian 8-day time and strike shelf clock is neoclassical. It is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today. it is timeless.
The age-old debate about what to do with a clock case often arises. Some say, “leave it”, the finish, however grimy is part of a clock’s history. I am not of that camp. If I found the perfect classic car in an old barn I would not leave the dirt and grime on the finish to preserve its patina? Rather, I would polish it to show it off to the world.
This clock is not a candidate for stripping the finish. Stripping is a last resort. Good old fashioned soap and water work is perfect for a project such as this.
Old clocks especially those that are over 100 years old are generally very dirty and the grime is layered. The home environment was a very different place a century ago. Smoking in the home was common, many homes had wood and coal fires for heat, humidity varied because of poor insulation and anything in suspension landed on the furniture. This Ingraham clock is no exception. The rosewood veneer deserves to be shown off and that can only be achieved by peeling off the dirt to reveal the texture of the grain underneath.
Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo (with permission)
For cleaning, I prefer a light coloured microfiber cloth so that I can visualize how much dirt I am removing as I proceed with the cleaning. I use several during the course of the project. Diluted Murphy’s soap is used for the case and full strength for the stubborn areas.
Rubbing is required but I don’t want to get too carried away as the cloth might snag a piece of the veneer on a corner. I start with a discreet area first to see what effect the cleaning is having. Working one section at a time, I clean down to the veneer. Any shellac that remains will be removed during the cleaning.
The case looks bleached after the cleaning but a damp cloth will show the grain, the effect shellac will have once the cleaning stage is complete.
I let the case dry thoroughly before applying the first coat of shellac. Shellac is prepared in the traditional manner, flakes and lacquer thinner and mixed to a one pound cut allowing fast drying.
For this project, I applied 2 coats of shellac. Between coats, I used 4X0 steel wool to smooth out any imperfections. After the second coat, I use steel wool to take away the glossy look of the shellac.
Next is the dial.
Ingraham Grecian shelf clockIngraham Grecian clock, the dial is detached from the bezel
Above is a photo of the dial when I received the clock. It is off-center because nothing is securing the dial face to the brass bezel.
The rear of the dial, 2 new dial tabs
Two of the four tabs securing the dial face on the rear of the brass bezel were broken. The arrows show the two new tabs. I am not a whiz with a soldering iron and did the best I could but the results, to me, are acceptable. The thin brass tabs were sourced from a supplier. The tabs, once secured, are bent to secure the dial in place.
Ingraham Grecian
The numerals were in-painted. The dial was in generally good condition though there were losses outside the chapter ring. I mixed and matched paint to touch up the areas of paint loss, and installed a new grommet to replace the missing time-side one. The brass bezel, inner brass ring, and strike side grommet were polished with Brasso as the last step.
E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock
The case and dial part of the project is complete and in a future post I will address servicing the movement.
There’s something deeply satisfying about winding a mechanical clock—feeling the tension build in the spring or watching the weights slowly rise as you turn the key. That simple ritual connects you to generations past, when timekeeping was both a science and a daily habit. Among the many types of mechanical clocks, the 8-day clock holds a special place. Wound just once a week, it blends convenience with craftsmanship, offering the perfect balance of tradition and practicality.
An 8-day clock is a mechanical clock that requires winding only once every seven days. While that may sound simple, there’s more to it than just the winding schedule.
Double-sided winding key
Types of Mechanical Clocks
Mechanical clocks vary in their run times. A 30-hour clock—often called a 1-day clock—needs daily winding. Many ogee weight-driven and alarm clocks fall into this category. Others, especially those with Chinese or Korean movements, can run up to 31 days. You’ll also find clocks rated for 14, 15, or even 60 days, and anniversary clocks, known as 400-day clocks, which run for more than a year on a single wind. The number of days simply refers to how long the clock will run before needing to be rewound.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton 15-day clock
Why Regular Winding Matters
If you don’t wind a clock near the end of its run time, it will stop when the mainspring or weight no longer provides power. A serviced 8-day spring-driven clock might run a day or two beyond its rated cycle, but eventually, it will stop once the power is depleted.
Junghans 14-day time and strike mantel clock
When an 8-day clock consistently fails to run its full cycle, it’s a clear sign that servicing is needed. Dirt, worn bushings, or tired pivots can all cause power loss. Fresh oil alone won’t solve the issue—mixing new oil with old, dirty oil can actually worsen wear.
Professional clock servicing involves fully disassembling and cleaning the movement, repairing worn areas, reassembling and lubricating it, and testing for accuracy. Though servicing can be costly—and sometimes exceed the clock’s market value—it’s well worth it for pieces with sentimental or historical importance.
It’s normal for an 8-day spring-driven clock to lose a bit of time toward the end of the week. As the mainspring unwinds, the stored energy gradually decreases, slightly slowing the movement.
Speed Variations and Clock Design
Seth Thomas round top 8-day clock
Some clocks include a device called a stopwork or Geneva stop, which limits the spring’s range to its most consistent section of power. This improves timekeeping but is relatively uncommon today—many clocks that once had stopworks have had them removed by repairers over the years.
Arrows showing Geneva stops or stop works
My Personnel Collection and the Variety of Run Times
Of the more than 80 clocks in my collection, about 30 are running at any given time. Five are 1-day ogee clocks, three have 14-day run times, and the remainder are 8-day models. Most antique and vintage clocks you find in shops or online are also 8-day clocks—the classic “once-a-week winders.”
Keeping a Regular Winding Schedule
Weight-driven 8-day clocks tend to be more accurate than spring-driven ones because their power source—a descending weight—delivers a constant force. They typically need only minor time corrections.
Final Thoughts
Winding your clock at the same time each week ensures steady performance. I make it a Sunday morning ritual to wind my clocks and make any necessary time adjustments.
Like any precision instrument, a clock rewards consistent care. With proper handling, regular maintenance, and timely servicing, an 8-day clock will live up to its name—keeping time faithfully, week after week.
Feel free to share your comments or questions below!
This clock was an estate auction buy in early 2021. Since my wife and I were unable to bid in person we placed an online bid. So many estate auction houses are taking this very route that the days of people packing an auction house and bidding feverishly may be behind us. It was described as an unknown clock but I’d seen enough photos online to know that I had likely won a Hamburg American Clock Co. shelf clock. And, for a small shipping fee the clock was delivered to us a few days later by courier.
HAC was a well-known German company that was founded in 1883 and made clocks for a number of years before they were acquired by Gebr Junghans Uhrenfabrik or Junghans for short, in the late 1920s. I have a number of German clocks but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.
Bracket clock, auction photo (with permission)
When I opened the box I inspected the clock for damage (there was none) and proceeded to look for the familiar cross arrows trademark on the backplate of the movement. I could see how it would have been easily missed by the auction house since the trademark was “hidden” behind the pendulum leader. Many HAC clocks have a trademark on the gong block, this one does not.
HAC trademark
The case is a little tired and worn, especially the dial, but there is nothing amiss, no parts missing. The movement works but I am not sure what to do with a very tired looking dial face.
I pulled the movement out of the case to examine it more closely, inspect for any immediate issues, and proceeded to photograph it from different angles.
HAC clock, tired but working
HAC clock movement, backplate
HAC clock movement, front plate
Like other German movements, it is robust, well-engineered and has a certain industrialized look, even crude in some respects. The front and backplates are solid indicating that it was probably an early version of this movement. There are no “extra” holes in the plates that are often found in many other German movements, holes that are made for various functions for other styles of cases. Compared this to the #36 movement (below right) from HAC. At 8.7 cms by 10.9 cms this one is almost the exact size.
HAC #36 clock movement
The plates are almost 2 mm thick, suggesting a well engineered movement.
Movements on German mantel and shelf clocks from other manufacturers are typically bolted to a seat-board. On this clock, brackets on all 4 corners attach the movement to the inside front panel which is very American!
Numbers in the top left corner of the backplate,164, 42, and 130 tell the beats per minute, the number of escape wheel teeth, and pendulum length.
I am anxious to take the movement apart and look at ways to revitalize the case and dial.
Although I have sold a few clocks locally in the past year to trim down my collection, I am always on the lookout for new acquisitions. One in, one out, has become the rule.
I am a frequent follower of online for-sale and estate auction sites and look for unique clocks like this E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock (right) which I bought in early January 2021.
Ingraham Grecian shelf clock C.1871
There are two noteworthy estate auction houses in Nova Scotia, but only one offering premium items. As for what I term is “the better auction house”, art and Canadiana are their specialties but occasionally clocks are added to the auction offerings.
In February 2021 I took a chance on a second clock from the same auction house. Since one clock was offered I knew that the auction would not attract collectors. If there are several clocks offered for auction, I find that collectors are attracted and that tends to drive up the bidding.
The description of the clock according to the auction house is as follows:
Antique walnut bracket style mantel clock with polished brass outer dial. In running order but probably could use a clean, with mellow tone chime. Brass movement. No makers marks. Measures 14 inches tall by 10 1/4 wide and 5 3/4 inches deep.
So a “pig in a poke” as we would say locally. An unknown maker in a fairly attractive case. “Could use a clean” is a euphemism for “might have some issues”. From the auction photos, the case looks tired and the state of the movement is unknown, but, I am up for the challenge.
The dial looks intriguing. It could be one piece with a silvered chapter ring or spandrels added over the brass which is more likely. As of this writing, it remains at the auction house awaiting shipment.
The movement is certain to be German. However, it might have been made by any number of companies, Junghans, Mauthe, HAC but I am thinking it is HAC, the Hamburg American Clock Co. and made in the early part of the 20th century. I do not have any other HACs in my collection, so, this would be the first.
I suspect a well-built movement with solid plates front and back.
The reserve bid of $75 is what I paid. I am not a fan of reserve bids but at least I did not pay more than that. Of course, tax and the auction house buyer’s premium are always added to the final invoice.
Daylight Savings Time has no place in our modern world. Of 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries observe Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe some form of daylight saving.
Face of a Vienna Regulator clock C.1870
70 countries must live with it.
Face of a Ridgeway grandfather clock C.1996
At 2:00am Sunday, set your clocks ahead one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.
Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. In Canada, we have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.
Canada Clock Co. cottage clock C.1883
How to set your mechanical clock(s)
Move the minute hand slowly clockwise to the correct time, stopping briefly for the quarter-hour on chiming clocks and the half-hour for striking clocks.
Do not move the minute hand backward as it risks damage to the movement. This should be regarded as a general rule, exceptions are some clocks where it is safe to do so (read your owner’s manual).
There has been a push to scrap the time-switch in Canada.
The past year will be remembered for many years. It was a very trying time for many of us but in the midst of the pandemic, there are positives. It was a time of reflection and a time that reminded folks of a past when life was simpler. More and more people have become interested in hobbies and perhaps collecting antiques in general or antique clocks in particular.
Seth Thomas adamantine mantel clock, C.1909
Perhaps you received a clock as a gift, inherited one, picked one up at an antique store, found a clock online that needs work or discovered that very rare clock that requires a little TLC to run perfectly and you want to have it running just like the good old days.
Junghans Sydney bracket clock C.1911
Two options
Basically, you have two options.
Try to fix the clock yourself, or,
Find someone to put the clock in working order.
Even if you bought a working clock, eventually it will stop running and it will require cleaning at the very least or major repairs if it is very worn.
You might attempt to fix a non-working clock yourself. With basic tools, you might get lucky with the repair of simple, cheap movements but eventually, you will require a professional. Working on clocks requires a certain skill set and plenty of patience. It takes years to attain a level of expertise not to mention the specialized equipment required to work on the mechanisms. For any high-quality or rare clock, you may not trust yourself to work on it yourself and will need a reputable clock repair person to make it right.
McLachlan tall case clock, C.1848
It may come as no surprise that there are not as many people involved in the clock repair business today as there were years ago. Clockmakers are a dying occupation. Clock repair businesses are closing when owners retire as there are not enough young people to carry on the tradition. Plus, in the digital age do analogue clocks make sense!
Kienzle World Time clock, C.1951
With so few skilled professionals left, finding a person to repair your clock requires time, effort, and research. At one time in my home province of Nova Scotia, there were a dozen repair shops operating in or near every major town. Today there are two reputable repair shops left and both are hours away from where I live. They perform excellent work but they are expensive, and why not, they provide an exclusive service.
Reputable clock repair shops have repair persons who have the necessary credentials to work on a wide variety of clocks. However, some repair shops have questionable work practices. How would you know? The Better Business Bureau is a good source to determine whether or not a business is in good standing. If a business is in good standing and has no complaints it is considered reputable according to BBB standards.
Local jewellers might advertise mechanical clock repair but very few have a certified repair person on site.
The National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, or NAWCC, has over 175 chapters, mostly in the United States, that are devoted to the repair and restoration of clocks. Members of this organization range from interested beginners to dedicated horologists. Consumers and interested collectors can receive answers to many clock questions with a free registration on the NAWCC Forum site. Guidance and direction can be provided to those seeking a repair person in their local area.
Ingraham Huron shelf clock, C.1879
Those looking for a clock specialist in the UK should look for those individuals who have a membership in the Antiquarian Horological Society or AHS.
Contacting either of the above organizations or reading their publications will narrow down your choice of a clock repair specialist.
And finally, word of mouth. Connect with someone you know who works on clocks and watches and they likely will tell you not only where you can have your clock repaired but who is reputable and if the repair cost is reasonable.
Once you find that special clock person to repair your clock you can rest assured that it will be given the love and attention it deserves and take comfort in the fact that someone is available to look after your mechanical antique or vintage clock needs.
Canadian made Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock, circa 1916, $300 (in Canada)
There are many types and styles of clocks and dozens of manufacturers. If you are a collector you know exactly what you are looking for and have a good idea of its approximate value. If you are not an “expert”, selecting an antique clock can be a daunting task. But this article is not about helping you find that special clock. It is about the variables that affect clock prices in 2021.
Mantel clocks on display in a museum
Over the years I have learned the value of many antique and vintage clocks. When I come across an interesting clock on an online for sale site or in an antique store I have several questions in mind. Is there anything special about it? When was it made? Is it rare? Is it historically significant? Is the price too high or too low and why? How much work must I put into it if it clearly needs TLC and will the seller accept a lower price? That said, I am prepared to walk away at any point.
For example, E. Ingraham clocks are common and can be had for very little money but the more desirable Ingrahams of the 1860s and 70s are those that Elias Ingraham had a hand in designing. The Ingraham Grecian is an attractive example of a clock that was designed in a period of American clock manufacturing where dappearance and uniqueness mattered.
E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock C. 1870
Condition is important. One look at the case will tell me how well it was cared for. In my experience, it is pretty rare to find a clock that has been professionally serviced and many where a previous owner applied their limited skills to get it running. However, if you have the skills to service the movement and are handy at restoration, there are certainly bargains to be found.
If acquiring antique and vintage clocks is something you enjoy but have no knowledge of clock repair, the cost of servicing must be factored into the price particularly if you want it to run reliably.
Let’s assume that you are looking for an authentic antique or vintage clock that has not been altered in any way save for minor cosmetic touch-ups. What factors influence the price you pay for a clock today?
Miniature one-weight Vienna regulator wall clock, unsigned, circa 1870, in the $400 range
Here is a list of factors I would consider in making your next purchase and why you would pay more for some clocks and less for others.
Variables that affect clock prices today
Wall clocks generally command higher prices than mantel clocks, the exceptions are Asian wall clocks and the like that have little value.
Most mantel clocks less than 100 years old have little value.
Clocks that come from a prominent collection that are well cared for and in excellent condition are more desirable.
Demand in your local area affects price; Canadian-made clocks are sought after in Canada whereas the same clocks are almost worthless in the US.
Weight-driven clocks are more desirable than spring-driven clocks. The exception is the modern weight-driven grandfather clock whose value has plummeted in recent years.
Condition is key, a clock in excellent condition is worth more than one in poor condition or with parts missing.
Running clocks are worth (generally) more than non-running clocks.
A recently serviced clock is worth more than one that has either not been serviced in a long time or never serviced.
The same clock may be worth more than others that are the same or similar if it has special provenance i.e. a well-documented tall case clock that came from Grover Cleveland’s home.
A clock with a replacement movement is termed a marriage by collectors. Marriages are worth far less than an authentic clock but acceptable by some collectors.
Any clock that has had its mechanical movement replaced with a quartz one is worthless.
One of the largest factors in a clock’s value is the manufacturer. Many from Sessions Clock Co. are rather ordinary and relatively inexpensive but some Seth Thomas Sonora Chime clocks, for example, have good value.
Age does not always equate to a higher price. A clock that is 170 years old is not necessarily worth more than one that is 50 years old.
Mechanism type; double and triple fusee clocks and pinwheel regulators are worth more than open-spring-driven mantel clocks or modern tall-case weight-driven clocks.
Some clockmakers are more desirable than others; generally speaking a German-made Winterhalder and Hofmeier mantel clock is worth more than a similar American-made Gilbert mantel clock. Assuming both are in the same condition, an unsigned four-glass French clock has a greater value than a branded American crystal regulator.
Scottish tall case clock, circa 1848 for under $300
The Law of Supply and demand and the 30-hour ogee
The law of supply and demand is the theory that explains the interaction between the sellers of a resource and the buyers for that same resource. Generally, as price increases, people are willing to supply more and demand less and vice versa when the price falls. At the end of the day, the clock market is very unpredictable. Clocks on eBay that go for $400 one month are $100 the next.
An interesting example is a 30-hour ogee clock. Prior to the popularity of online auction sites 30-hour ogee clocks (below) were commanding prices in the hundreds of dollars. Antique stores had them in the $250-400 range and when the internet came along supply increased and prices dropped.
George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee, circa 1860
I have paid low prices for some of my clocks but higher for what I call special clocks that are not necessarily rare but are made with some level of precision or unique in design.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2, circa 1925, $800-1000 range
Closing thoughts
In commercial transactions, the principle that the buyer purchases at his own risk in the absence of an express warranty is termed Caveat Emptor, or let the buyer beware. In the clock world, buyers have little or no recourse if those goods turn out to be defective, misrepresented, or broken. The best of luck trying to get your money back if you are a successful bidder on an online auction site and your package arrives in pieces.
Selecting and purchasing an authentic antique mechanical clock can be a daunting task but it can also be a very rewarding experience.
During the winter of 2017, I restored an antique Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock, circa 1898.
It came to me as a box of parts. I sensed the seller fully intended to complete the project but never got around to it but at least he reconstructed the case. I saw a challenge in that collection of dusty and dirty parts.
Much of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, dial, hands, coil gong, and movement bracket, the bottom base and top section of the case, crown, backboard, vertical columns, and most of the decorative trim. I added glass, smaller trim features, upper finials, and their bases.
Replaced some 40 years ago is the box frame and the front section that supports the right and left columns. Parts of the clock were evidently destroyed beyond repair and the remainder salvaged for later restoration which was never completed.
How the clock came to me
While much of the “newer pieces” are hidden, the previous owner took care to replicate woodworking techniques of the period aside from the use of Roberston screws on the back panel.
That aside, the movement was very dirty and had not been running for many years. Perhaps it last worked just before the Halifax Explosion of 1917. The previous owner informed me that the clock was in the family home in north-end Halifax (Nova Scotia, Canada) and the clock took a significant hit from that fateful blast on December 6th.
Very dirty movement, right out of the case
After completing work on the case, I set about working on the movement. During the course of disassembling/reassembling the movement, I not only broke the strike paddle but a retention spring as well. Back then (2017), my skills were not advanced enough to repair it so I had it professionally serviced.
Junghans movement, broken strike paddle
Three months later I picked up the clock and hung it on my dining room wall. It ran perfectly for over two and a half years. Some months ago the strike became erratic. It would strike incorrectly, not at all, or incessantly till the mainspring ran down.
I had a number of other clock projects on the go so I kept the time side going and left it on the wall until December 2020.
Disassembly and Inspection
Once I took the movement apart I found a slightly bent strike side cam wheel arbor. There were no other bent pivots or worn pivot holes and everything else looked good. Back in 2017 during its stay in a clock shop it had had extensive bushing work done, 6 on the front plate and 6 on the rear plate. There was a small amount of dirty oil around the pivots and after 2 plus years that is to be expected.
During the course of manipulating the plates, I snapped the paddle arbor retention spring, again! This time I was able to repair it.
Junghans movement spring repair upper center, Threadlocker Red at the base of the spring
There was enough of the spring to reuse. The wire is thin (0.5mm), very brittle and it does not take much pressure to break it. Using a micro drill with a 0.5mm HHS bit I drilled out the existing hole in the plate, reinstalled the spring, and applied Threadlocker Red to bond the spring to the plate.
Electric micro drill
Re-assembly
I cleaned the parts in the ultrasonic, pegged the pivot holes, polished the pivots, and re-assembled the movement.
Junghans movement work ready for the rear plate
I took a couple of attempts to line up everything on the strike side; paddle in the deep slot, cam lever in the low part of the cam, and strike paddle aligned between the points on the star wheel while ensuring that the stop wheel pin was in the 12 o’clock (approximately) position. If you have worked on German count-wheel strike movements, all this should sound familiar.
One is tempted to bend a lever or two to correct the strike side behave but in my experience, unless someone has messed with a lever in the past, it is best to leave them alone.
Junghans movement on the test stand
And now for testing. After several days the movement is running well and the strike side is finally behaving itself. Since there is nothing amiss I will chalk this up to a strike side design that causes it to “wander” over time or that slightly bent cam wheel arbor. One or two cycles on the test stand should be sufficient before returning it to its case.
While it was on the test stand I decided to research this clock. I visited the Junghans archive catalogue site and discovered a few new-to-me details. The clock was available in the 1898 catalog as I suspected.
Four Junghans wall clocks in 1898 catalog; the Cripi second from left
The clock case is described as “old oak” with burnished brass trimmings. The Crispi, as it was called, was designated #1758 and was available with a white or ivory-colored celluloid dial or a white or ivory-colored 5 3/4 inch enamel dial (this clock). The length is forty and a third inches (103 cm) and it is a 14-day strike. Given the description of the length, in inches, the clock was likely marketed for the United Kingdom and Italy as you can see by the above catalog entry.
Overall, a successful servicing and if it “wanders” again, a simple disassembly, reassembly, and re-adjustment at some point in the future should put it right. Let’s hope that is more than two years away this time.
I was the successful online bidder for an E. Ingraham Grecian time and strike shelf clock in early January 2021. My wife and I had to travel 3 hours, from one part of Nova Scotia to another, to pick the clock up but since we were taking a small staycation in the nearby area the antique shop was on our way.
It is a very interesting design and I researched not only this clock but the period that influenced its design.
Let’s travel back in time to Duncan Phyfe, a prominent American furniture designer (1768-1854). His interpretation of fashionable European trends made him a major influence in the Neoclassical movement in the United States impacting an entire generation of cabinet-makers. The era of Greek furniture design quickly came to the clock world in the form of “Grecian” clocks made by a number of clock manufacturers including Joseph Ives, E. N. Welch, Seth Thomas, and Ingraham.
This is the E. Ingraham & Co.’s interpretation of the Grecian clock, called appropriately enough, the “Grecian”.
The design is a classical influence and it is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today. It has a molded Rosewood bezel with carved volutes below the dial frame. The dial frame and bezel are one section that makes up the hinged front access door. I have seen walnut-cased versions and mosaic maple and walnut as well. The mosaic versions are probably the most desirable.
Elias Ingraham was a case designer and no doubt had a hand not only in the design but the choice of woods used for case construction.
It has a paint-on-zinc dial, moon-shaped hands, and Roman chapters. The Grecian model was available as a 30-hour spring-driven, time and strike, 30-hour time and strike with alarm, 8-day time and strike, and 8-day time and strike with alarm. This one is the 8-day time and hour-strike alarm version. All models strike on a cast bell made of iron, or in this case, brass. Features such as exotic/mixed woods, alarm, and 8-day function would have been an extra charge at the time. The clocks were made between the years 1868 and 1883 with an 1880 catalog price of $5.25 for the 30-hour clock with alarm.
It has a green triangular-shaped paper label inside the back panel of the case which is in fair condition. There are 3 patent dates on the label, September 30, 1862, March 31, 1868, and June 6th, 1871. The newest clocks of this model would have had October 8, 1878, and still newer, November 11, 1879 patent dates so, this clock was made after 1871 and before 1878. The fact that the clock can be dated within a 5 year period is a plus.
Once I receive the clock and look it over more carefully I will post my first impressions and the work that must be done to restore both the clock movement and the case to its former glory. Stay tuned.
Those involved in clock repair must use a special stand for testing tall case clock movements. There are many varieties of stands most of which are home-built though commercial ones are available in the $2-300 range.
Early last year (2020) I purchased a Scottish tall case clock. Those familiar with English bell strike movements know they can be tricky to work on and a test stand certainly helps to fine-tune the movement. I did not have such a stand and wondered whether to buy one or construct one. I was a bit put off at the cost of a factory-made stand so I decided to put my limited carpentry skills to use.
The test stand is in use prior to the finishing touches
Premium 2 X 4’s leftover from a previous job were perfect for this project. The term “premium” means extra cost because they are kiln-dried and guaranteed to be straight. My plan was to construct a 2 X 2 box frame with 4 legs but to do so I had to rip the 2 X 4’s in half. I put my old trusty table saw to good use.
The stand is 48 inches high held together with wood screws
The boxed-in base section (my idea) adds to the stability of the stand. I added two fitted removable hardwood cross pieces to support virtually any tall case movement.
Clock stand rails made of yellow oak and sprayed with clear lacquer
Clock stand with one rail on
Tall case clock stand, both rails in position
The rails, made of yellow oak are strong and heavy. They do not require nailing or screwing to the top of the stand as the combined weight of both the movement and heavy weights is sufficient to provide stability. Clamping the movement board to the rails as per the first photo is an option.
After using the stand for a week I discovered that the movement was stopping when the weights descended to a certain level. Upon researching the problem I found that the stand must be securely anchored to a wall or similar rigid structure so as to eliminate a phenomenon called sympathetic vibration which occurs when the pendulum and weights are at the same height, and begin to move in sympathy with the pendulum, around day 7 of the 8-day cycle. In fact, all stands used for tall case clock movements should be anchored.
Tall case clock stand with a couple of coats of paint
This stand will handle two movements comfortably and perhaps a third but I don’t see myself working on any more than one tall-case movement at a time.
Leftover paint (Espresso) from another job gives it a classy look. The result is a very solid, stable, and attractive tall case test stand that will no doubt last for years.
2020 was a very trying year for us all and I suppose that applies to clock collectors generally when it comes to acquisitions. Despite the pandemic, I managed to purchase a few clocks though obviously, not as many as in other years.
The contenders for the year are clocks from Solar, Junghans, Sessions, Arthur Pequegnat, and Fleet, leading up to the big winner of the year, a Scottish tall case clock.
Solar
First on the list is an attractive German-made Solar time and strike mantel clock, sold by the Eatons Department store chain in Canada during the 1960s and 70s.
Solar mantel clock, 1965
It has a Hermle type 141 movement and strikes the half-hour on a bell. It was a non-working clock when I bought it for $20 but it was simple enough to service and now runs like a charm. I will likely sell it locally for a few dollars more.
Junghans bracket clock
For $40 I could not possibly go wrong with this bracket clock even though it was a non-working clock and need some serious TLC. I serviced the movement, refreshed the case, polished the brass, added new feet and the clock now occupies a prominent location in my family room.
Junghans time and strike bracket clock, 1911
Sessions 3W electric clock
The diminutive Sessions desk clock has a Synchron motor (60 cycles per second) and the only repair is to replace the plug. I like the simplicity and style. It has some issues consistent with an 87-year-old electric clock but it is in pretty good shape for its age.
Sessions desk clock, 1934
Arthur Pequegnat
Next is an Arthur Pequegnat Canuck time and strike gingerbread or kitchen clock as it is otherwise known. This was another inexpensive find, $50 on an online for-sale site, and for $10 more, another clock completed the deal.
Arthur Pequegnat canuck, inset shows the dial before restoration, 1918
I spent a considerable amount of time on this clock, refreshing the case, inpainting the dial, and refurbishing the movement. I was very satisfied with the results and this clock will join my collection of 7 other Arthur Pequegnat clocks. A nice find for a very good price.
Fleet Time Company
Next is a Fleet Westminster chime mantel clock from the late 1930s, made by the Fleet Time Company of Montreal. Fleet assembled clocks for 4 short years before World War II sourcing movements from Germany with locally made cases. It is the $10 clock that was combined with the deal above.
Fleet Westminster time mantel clock, 1937
The clock as received
I refurbished the case and replaced the time side mainspring but did nothing to the movement except re-oil it. The case was completely stripped down to the bare wood followed by the application of a medium oak stain and a clear satin topcoat. This is a lovely mantel clock with a rich Westminster chime and I will probably keep this one in my collection since it was assembled in Montreal and represents a small but important piece of Canadian horological history.
McLachlan tall case clock
Finally, let’s come to my prize for the year, bought at a live auction in February 2020, a Scottish tall case clock assembled by William McLachlan of Newton, Steward in 1848. Completely restored were the dial, movement, and the case, which required extensive structural repairs.
Scottish tall case clock, 1848
With an English bell strike movement, tall, stately mahogany case, beautiful hand-painted dial and heavy 13 lb weights, this clock has a commanding presence in my home. If you have ever heard the sound of an antique bell strike clock you will understand that is it as loud as it is because it was designed to echo through a stately Scottish manor. It is a conversation piece and those who have seen it marvel at its condition and age.
Despite a difficult year, I was pleased with my purchases. I am confident that 2021 will be a better year for me as a clock collector and a better year for us all.
A small change makes a big difference on a Junghans mantel clock from 1911. Let me explain.
Back in September 2020, I bought a German-made Junghans bracket style clock. It is 14 inches high by 10 inches wide by 6 inches deep, mahogany veneered, attractive brass accents, and a carrying handle on a curved domed top.
Junghans bracket clock
I just love the way it looks.
Junghans bracket clock handle
What about those chrome feet
The clock is original in almost every way; the quality time and strike movement is original to the clock, the spiral gong is correct; latches, bezels, and so on look good and work perfectly but for some strange reason it has replacement chrome feet and they bug the heck out of me.
Why should a small detail mar the classic lines of this clock!
Junghans bracket clock, chrome foot
After searching various online auction sites, I discovered that the original corner feet would have looked like the ones in the below photographs. I can only surmise that many years ago one fell off, got lost and the repairer simply found what would work and tossed the other three feet out.
Clock feet (Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)
Clock feet (Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)
So, where to find corner feet. There are a number of suppliers worldwide but my usual go-to supplier here in Canada, Perrins who are otherwise excellent, has a very limited selection of clock case corner feet and not in the style or size I was looking for.
US suppliers similarly have a limited supply as bracket clocks are not as popular there as overseas. England is the logical place to look since it is the land of the bracket clock.
Interestingly, the term bracket clock first appeared in 19th century England and is commonly referred to as a spring-driven pendulum table clock with a carrying handle (and often with subsidiary dials) so that it could be moved from room to room in the owner’s home. Of course, true bracket clocks had a strike silencer so as not to disturb the owner’s beauty sleep.
Using the search term “brass bracket feet” I searched the two largest suppliers in England, Cousins and Meadows and Passmore.
I found exactly what I was looking for at Cousins UK. Cousins calls the part a ridged carriage clock corner foot made of polished brass, sourced from Spain or India. They come in three sizes and for this clock, I chose the smallest one.
It took two weeks from the order date to arrival on my doorstep. I am very impressed!
Bracket clock feet from CousinsUK (Online photo, Fair Use: used informatively for the public good)
The feet are made of brass and look to be of decent quality.
Installation was simple. Rather than risk splitting the base so near to the edge I pre-drilled the holes. Using a mini electric drill I first marked the holes with each foot in place and drilled a deep enough hole.
Two slotted brass screws are required per foot. As I screwed one screw of each foot I checked for correct orientation and made a small adjustment as necessary.
Perfect!
Corner foot for Junghans bracket clock, the screw holes are pre-drilled
Left front corner foot
The feet are very sturdy and look exactly what the manufacturer would have used at the time.
Junghans bracket clock with new corner feet
Compare this last photo with the first to see the difference the new feet make on this clock.
This is an example of a subtle but important change that is very inexpensive (less than $24) and I am sure you will agree that it makes a dramatic difference.
Junghans Sydney
While I was working on this clock I visited the Junghans site and discovered a 1912 Cataloguewhich informs me that this clock was called the Sydney.
It was available in fumed oak or mahogany, 14 1/2 inches tall “with brass handle, inlaid polished brass designs, polished brass feet, and plain silver dial”. Both finishes were available with an 8 day or 14-day movement. The quarter strike 8-day clock had 2 gongs while the 14-day movement had 1 gong.
This then is a 14-day movement with a mahogany case and is referred to as model 7020. Judging by the name and the style, this clock was made for the English market.
It seems my research concerning the new polished brass feet paid off very nicely.
Lately, I have been working on a stately bracket clock by Junghans from the latter part of 1911. I love the look of this clock though some would say it is quite plain.
Junghans mantel clock on display on the day it was bought
The Regency style veneered mahogany case of this time and strike bracket clock is in reasonably good condition save for a small piece of veneer missing on the right side of the base and replacement chrome feet which look decidedly out of place.
I had completed servicing the movement a while back but also planned to address both the case and the dial as part of the rejuvenation of this clock.
After a thorough cleaning (and scrubbing) with Murphy’s soap, I freshened up the case followed by three coats of shellac.
The top of the clock looked good after a cleaning
Cleaning the dial
Silvered dials present a somewhat more challenging problem than zinc painted or paper dials. The silvering is very thin and can be rubbed off easily through over-aggressive cleaning resulting in a damaged finish so, it pays to be cautious.
Here is a prime example of a German U.M. Muller wall clock dial where someone used a strong cleaner resulting in a serious blemish. The dial must be completely restored. I have no plan to fix it.
U M Muller clock dial, damage between the numbers 6 and 7
Of course, there is the option of leaving this dial as-is but why not attempt a cleaning. As this is a non-porous dial, dirt is surfaced based.
Junghans clock dial and the extent of the dirt and grime
From my research, many methods of dirt removal seemed dubious and any kind of chemical on a silvered dial is plain wrong. I chose to use mild (diluted) liquid soap and Q-tips to lift off the grime. While it took dozens of Q-Tips dipped in soapy water and gentle scrubbing in the direction of the spun dial most of the dirt was removed and none of the silvering was damaged. It is difficult to see any improvement as one proceeds so, it pays to be patient. After a couple of hour’s work of gentle rubbing, this is the end result.
Junghans clock dial after cleaning
While not perfect it is much improved. The aged look remains, with a patina that most would consider acceptable. Following the cleaning, where there was missing paint on the numerals, they were filled in with black acrylic paint. No further restoration is necessary.
Junghans clock project is almost finished but for the lower brass features
Brass features
Next are brass features above the base section. Q-tips (many of them) and Brasso (Simichrome works well too) are perfect for bringing up the shine. Following the polishing, everything is wiped clean with soap and water and the inset panels are given a fresh coat of shellac.
The carrying handle on top was also cleaned with Brasso.
Junghans Cbracket style clock
Dial work and case cleaning are options when bringing any clock back to life but it boils down to personal choice. Some choose to leave things as they are to retain the original patina but I am in the camp that a little cleaning goes a long way. Cleaning takes time and patience, however. You may not see the results immediately but work carefully and you will be amply rewarded.
You may have noticed that the feet are different in the last photo but I will save that story for another day.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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