When I bought this clock I was not sure what I had. There is no label, no makers name on the dial and an unsigned movement. I thought, Gilbert, Sessions?
This clock was hanging on the wall of a local antique shop with no price. When I inquired the shop owner said that he just picked it up and had not decided on a price but he knew the clock had issues. The hands did not turn otherwise he said the clock ran fine. Something wrong in the motion works, I thought. It could be a simple fix or something more challenging. The brass dial bezel was secured with Robertson screws which told me that the clock had been messed with.
My wife said go for it, it’s about time for another clock project. I offered a price and he agreed but I walked away wondering what surprises awaited me.
French clockmakers such as Vedette, like so many makers of 1930s Europe, made box clocks in several styles. Although I have always wanted a Vedette clock buying one so plain was not what I had in mind but there it was at a silent auction in a clock mart at the NAWCC National Convention in Springfield, Ma. in June 2019 at atake-me please price.
It could easily be mistaken for a typical German box clock of the period save for the attractive oval beveled lower window and lack of side windows. Vedette clocks are typically quite ornate – not this one! However, the sound of the chimes more than make up for its plain jane appearance.
There is nothing quite like the reverberating chime of a Vedette clock
Although I did not buy any clocks during my trip to the west here are examples of what you might find in some of the better quality antique shops. The three shops these clocks are from are located on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada.
Let the photos speak for themselves. captions identify some of the clocks.
Trio of clocks, the middle one is a Grand Assortment by Sessions
Searching for a weight driven time-only banjo clock can be a challenge and acquiring an authentic example would go a long way to completing my collection. Securing an authentic Willard would certainly be the icing on the cake.
The style was widely copied by other members of the Willard family of clock makers and many others clock-makers
I was fortunate to have seen several Willard banjo clocks during my visit to the Willard Museum in Grafton Mass. in June 2019.
Banjo clock, circa early 1800s, Macdonald Museum, Middleton, Nova Scotia. Notice the location of the winding arbour
Few American clock-makers at the beginning of the 18th century were innovative. One of the most notable achievements was the small 8-day, weight-driven clock developed by Simon Willard. The Willard clock is a uniquely American wall clock with a banjo-shaped case designed and constructed by Simon Willard. Willard was originally of Grafton, Massachusetts, later of Roxbury, Massachusetts, and patented his unique clock in 1802.
The Willard banjo clock has no striking mechanism and indicates time only by its hands and dial. It is correctly defined as a timepiece.
This post explores buying tips for novice antique clock buyers. Those looking for an antique clock in general rather than a specific type or model of an antique mechanical clock will find the following tips very useful.
Vintage versus antique
According to the United States Government publications, the term “antique” is reserved for valuables that are over a century old. Webster’s dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Wikipedia defines the word antique as applying to objects at least 100 years old.
Restored Seth Thomas antique column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock circa 1865
According to eBay, vintage is a defined period from 1920 to 1969. The use of the word vintage in online auctions and elsewhere is becoming more and more like the word “rare”. Some may define “vintage” as anything that was purchased less than 24 hours ago, is dirty and worn, or looks like it might be old if you know nothing about its history. Sellers often do not know anything about what they are selling and often describe the item as “vintage”.
Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock circa 1930
The word “collectible” is also used, just like the word vintage has been misused. Just about anything sold these days is marketed as a collectible if not vintage. Most serious buyers would agree that when it comes to clocks younger than 100 years old but older than 30 they are considered vintage and collectible is anything within 30 years.
Antique clock buying tips
Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgment based on online images, most of which are of poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. The sad stories of people who thought they bought an antique clock with a mechanical movement only to find a quartz one when the clock arrived at their door are not fiction. This and other examples are the many challenges facing the antique clock shopper in today’s online world.
I am not a firm believer in purchasing an antique clock online based on images unless one is very familiar with and respects the reputation of the seller. Although you may find that special clock online my advice is to see the clock in the flesh prior to making your final decision.
Simon Willard banjo clock circa 1810
Questions you might ask yourself prior to the purchase
Will I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
Will it work when I get it home?
What do I have to do to fix it if something is wrong and what could I pay to fix it?
What did the seller not disclose? What are the little surprises that await me when I get home?
“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump
3 Simple rules for antique clock buying
Here are 3 simple rules on how to buy that special antique clock you’ve always wanted.
1. Locate the antique clock
The style and type of antique clock is a personal preference. I prefer wall clocks over mantel clocks, parlour over gingerbreads, and Ogees over cottage clocks.
If it is a local online inquiry meet with the seller to finalize the sale. If the clock is found in an antique shop or antique mall you will not be dealing with the seller (there are exceptions) but an agent who may know absolutely nothing about the clock.
Avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31-day” clocks. Although they are normally reliable runners, clock-makers will tell you that they are not worth fixing. None are antiques.
2. Ask a lot of questions
Does the clock run?
A running clock has more value than a non-running example. Ask the seller to demonstrate a running clock.
Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
Manufacturers make both inexpensive and quality clocks (there are exceptions). Seth Thomas, a respectable American clock-maker manufactured inexpensive clocks that have little value and higher-end models that are very desirable by collectors. The name alone does not always equate to value.
Has the clock been altered in any way?
Newer case pieces, decorations, new glass, refinished case, a replacement movement, a replacement pendulum, etc. will reduce the value and sometimes significantly.
If it does not run, are all the parts intact?
If it has all the parts, can it be repaired either by you, the buyer, or a competent repair person? I know of a time and strike clock that was missing the strike side gears.
How old is it?
Again, vintage or antique. A clock made in 1919 is now an antique.
Does the clock have provenance, an interesting and verifiable history?
How long has the seller had it?
A cherished family heirloom has more value than an item recently acquired for a quick profit.
Would you accept a lower price?
Point out specifically why the price should be reduced, missing pieces, non-running, poor condition.
3. Deal directly with the seller
By dealing with the seller in person you will always have the opportunity to walk away if you are not satisfied.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock Ca. 1899
Not every antique clock is rare or valuable and some clocks are more desirable than others. That 150-year-old 30-hour Ogee is not as valuable as you might think but a much younger vintage French figural style clock may be worth a lot more.
If you are looking for a very specific type or model of antique clock you will find that it takes time and research to find it but there will be a satisfying reward once found.
I discovered this wall clock in an antique store in Victoria, British Columbia and the store shall remain nameless to protect the guilty. I have been on the lookout for a calendar clock and from a distance it looked like this was it. As I neared I realized that what I was looking at was some kind of interesting marriage.
The top dial and bezel is Pequegnat, Brandon II, the bottom is something else
Mechanical clocks do not last forever and every now and then a movement should be inspected for wear and to address any other issues if required. A cycle of 2-4 years is a good rule for checking on the health of your mechanical clock.
In the case of this clock perhaps 5 years is a little long but it has not been in a harsh environment. Although I had it professionally serviced I have built up my clock repair skill-sets in the last 4 years and can now do the work myself.
I was asked to take a look at this German made wall clock from the 1980s. The owner said it had not been running for 3 years. It is a German made Jauch wall clock from the late 1970s.
Sadly, the doors of the Jauch clock company closed many years ago. Jauch was not a notable supplier of whole clocks but Jauch did produce lots of clock movements after WWII to various assemblers. Many of these assemblers made clock cases or supplied kits with faces, hands and pendulum assemblies from other sources.
What other machine have you acquired that has worked continuously since it was made 150 plus years ago and still does the job it was intended for? Mechanical clocks revolutionized people’s perception of time by displaying neutral, uniform units that showed the passage of time. Though not as accurate as the modern electronic timekeeper the mechanical clock remains a marvel of engineering and innovation.
The constant search for clocks
Locating antique and vintage clocks involves travelling, meeting fascinating people and discovering a clock’s particular history. Each story is unique and some stories are sad. I recently arranged the purchase of an antique French shelf clock, arrived to pick it up and discovered that the person was terminally ill and selling off his clock collection to provide for his wife after he had passed. I really felt sorry for the fellow. Of course, many stories are happy ones.
I enjoy clocks for what they are. I often think about the men who conceived them, built them and the craftsmen working in small factories in places such as New England with primitive (by our standards) tools and the harsh conditions they endured. Life to them was a day-to-day struggle. That the clocks are still with us today is a testament to the pioneers of clock-making.
Miniature Vienna Regulator wall clock, circa 1870
There are a lot of clocks I find intriguing. There are some people that collect complex clocks and I appreciate them as well but I lean towards beauty in simplicity. For example, the miniature Vienna Regulator pictured above is a time-only clock made during the Austrian-Hungarian empire (1870). It is simple, little can go wrong and after nearly 150 years it is still running strong.
There is a certain joy in collecting and repairing clocks. The hobby of clock-making allows one to escape from negativity, put aside worldly matters, effectively manage stress, and dispense with everyday concerns. Occasionally clock problems are very challenging however, the joy in discovering a solution is immeasurable. Beyond that, clocks are an art form and should be appreciated for what they are.
As a collector, the number of clocks I have is not important. The size of my collection is also not important but by trimming my acquisitions from time to time I keep it manageable.
The problem; a run-on strike. The solution; remove the movement, poke around looking for the cause, find it almost immediately and apply a quick fix.
The story
My winter (2017) project was an antique German Junghans Crispi time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was manufactured in Schwenningen, Germany in 1899. It came to me as a box of parts. I put hours of work into this project so a malfunctioning movement was a bit of a disappointment.
When I originally disassembled the movement for servicing I made two errors. In my attempt to correct a bent star wheel paddle, I managed to snap it off.
Strike paddle
However, I also managed to snap off the paddle wheel arbor spring which is essentially a thin steel wire which maintains paddle tension during the strike. At the time I did not have the right tools to repair the break. Hmm! After a professional servicing, all is right.
Return spring that had become loose after two years (first photos taken of the movement)
Fast forward to 2019
Now, two years later the strike side decided to malfunction. It was striking incessantly. I decided to check out the problem. I took the movement out of the case, removed the clock face and immediately noticed that the strike tension wire had wiggled out of the arbor so that nothing prevented the paddle from stopping, hence the run-on strike. As I mentioned this was one of the repairs made on the clock when it was professionally serviced.
The solution is Loctite. Some purists will scoff but I believe there is place for modern materials in clock repair so long as the repair is functional and discreet. I positioned the spring correctly and applied Loctite where the wire runs into the paddle arbour and allowed it to dry for 24 hours.
After the repair the clock is striking as it should. However, it took me a couple of days to find the correct beat. For some reason this clock must be absolutely level to function correctly. If it is off by just a smidgen it will not run. Anyway, everything is fine now.
On March 10th Daylight Savings Time began at 3:00am in Canada. Over 100 years ago on July 1, 1908, the residents of Port Arthur, Ontario, today’s Thunder Bay, turned their clocks forward by 1 hour to start the world’s first DST period.
Spring ahead, Fall behind
In Canada we refer to it as Daylight Saving Time (DST); the British call it “British Summer Time” and “summertime” in other areas. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer while sacrificing normal sunrise times. Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. We have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
There is a constant dispute about the benefits and drawbacks. Proponents say that it conserves energy and has a psychological benefit of extending the daylight hours. Opponents say that the energy arguments are inconclusive.
Regardless, people must remember to change their clocks. It is a time-consuming exercise, particularly for those owners of antique and vintage mechanical clocks that cannot be moved backward safely though obviously moving 1-hour forward is much simpler.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton wall clock
But why go through this nonsense; let’s just get rid of DST! I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts. My mechanical clocks will appreciate it and yours will too!
Small details added during clock restoration projects can change the appearance of clock in a positive way. In this article I will describe how adding a piece (actually two), that should have there in the first place, will make all the difference.
During the fall (2018) I spent a considerable amount of time restoring a Vienna styled time and strike German made FMS Mauthe spring driven wall clock. Restoration involved completely stripping and refinishing the case and fully servicing the movement. My wife commented that the transformation was dramatic and of course, I graciously accepted the compliment.
For some reason many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers
Before
And….
After
Restoration included adding an arched door insert above the dial and a new centre top finial. Otherwise, the clock was complete except for one small item, the 2 wall stabilizers. Why would they be missing? A thumbscrew might go astray during a servicing and rather than find a replacement it is too easy to take both off and discard them.
Clock case stabilizers
Many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers. Check the rear backboard of a wall clock without stabilizers. You might find two small holes on either side of the case near the bottom indicating it once had wall stabilizers. Otherwise if you do not find those holes, the clock was never meant to have them.
Once the beat is set, level the clock on the wall and set the stabilizers by screwing each one into the wall. The stabilizers will compensate for any wall vibrations and the movement of the case during the weekly winding.
Right side stabilizer
Some stabilizers are unique to brands such as Ansonia and Gustav Becker. This, however, does not mean that they are limited to these movements, they are interchangeable. The stabilizers you see here are advertised as Vienna stabilizers.
Left and right stabilizers are barely seen but preform an important function
All clock suppliers carry stabilizers. I ordered a pair and simply re-used the screw holes on either side on the backboard to attach the stabilizers.
Are they absolutely necessary? No! Can a clock run without them. Yes! Yet, it is an often overlooked detail that might make all the difference.
It has taken me 6 years to assemble my collection of antique and vintage clocks. Although I have many clocks, wall clocks are my particular favorites. Check out my collection of antique and vintage wall clocks in this YouTube video I made in January 2019.
Most refer to the name “Horse Crown” when describing this clock and it is easy to see why. Many would also consider it a Vienna Regulator style of clock. I have been putting off servicing this movement for a while and a long time has passed since it was properly serviced. So, let’s get started. First, some background.
Mauthe “Horse Crown”
The clcok was complete save for a missing bottom centre finial. I installed a new one shorty after I bought the clock
Clocks such as these are often missing not only a finial or two but the crown and other parts so this clock is in good condition.
Replacement middle finial
Year it was made and a history of the company
From my research, the trademark on the front plate tells me that the movement was made between 1895 and 1914 though the exact year of manufacture is unknown. Mauthe trademarks are very distinctive and from the trademark design, one can place the clock within a specific period of time. Unfortunately, the production number on the movement is a mystery as there is no known database for Mauthe clocks.
Trademark, production number, length of the pendulum (34cm), BPM (116) & patent number
Mauthe clocks have had a long and illustrious German history. In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. They were very successful through the years and diversified in several areas but after 1946 following the production of wrist watches the company gradually fell into decline.
This clock reminds me of what Forest Gump once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”
Now let’s open it up
The clock hung on my living room wall for three years. When I bought it I knew that it would eventually require servicing but there were so many other projects on the go, it could wait. The clock ran for several months at a stretch and there were months that the clock did not run at all. So, now that other projects have been completed the time is right for a thorough servicing.
Mauthe wall clock with new bottom centre finial
Forest Gump once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”. When inspecting any antique clock movement for the first time I have learned to expect just about anything.
As I move through any project my intent is not necessarily to correct mistakes of the past since they are an important part of the clock’s history but to ensure that past repairs do not cause me grief in the future. If it is a crude but functional and sturdy repair, I will generally leave it alone. I have learned that past repairs are part of the history of the clock.
When I took the movement out of the case I discovered something quite interesting. The dial is not original. Yes, it is a Mauthe dial but not for this clock. Two brass strips are fastened to each side of the front plate to accommodate a replacement dial. The added holes drilled into the side braces tell me that it once has a slightly smaller dial.
I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity
I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity. When I bought my first Vienna Regulator I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years and it made me wonder what is original and what is not. It as an unwinnable argument and I have learned to accept the notion that it may not matter to me or to a casual observer who would not think of questioning whether a clock and its parts are original.
Two extensions, soldered to the sides to accommodate a replacement movement
But, let’s move on. A repair was made to the strike hammer which appears to have broken off at one point. Again, a rough but solid repair.
Hammer repair, you can see a pool of oil on the pivot to the left
The clock was coated in oil which was dripping down the plates. However, in terms of its general condition, there is surprisingly little wear. Perhaps the liberal application of oil had a hand in preserving the movement but I suspect that it did not run much over its life.
Mainspring servicing using the Olie Baker spring winder
The mainsprings are enclosed in barrels. I opened up the spring barrels to service the mainsprings. The mainsprings are in good shape with no evidence of rust. They cleaned up nicely. Broken mainsprings in German clocks can be problematic. Severe damage can result in missing mainspring barrel teeth and broken lantern pinions when the mainsprings let go, a challenge for any clock-maker.
Top plate removed
Strike side levers, escapement
The movement was disassembled and the parts were cleaned in my L&R ultrasonic cleaner. The springs and barrels were cleaned separately. All parts were washed in warm water and dried. Finally, the pivots were inspected and polished. Although this movement has a count wheel between the plates with levers much like an American time and strike there are no annoying helper springs to frustrate the re-assembly process.
After lubricating the mainsprings with Keystone Mainspring Lubricant, I put the movement together without the levers to check end-shake, meshing and the condition of the pivot holes. Two lantern pinions had some flat-spot wear but not enough to warrant replacement. Two pivot holes are slightly enlarged on the third and fourth wheel strike side but not so bad that they need immediate attention. If I were in the business of repairing clocks for a living I would bush those two and repair the lantern pinions.
Parts are cleaned & positioned, ready for the front plate
To reassemble the movement I secured the bottom front plate nuts to the back plate and then positioned the pivots into their holes working upwards. Once the pivots are in place on the strike side I attach the third nut loosely and continue guiding the pivots and the two lever assemblies in place. Unlike American movement which have larger pivots, care must be taken not to force the relatively small pivots into their holes.
Much like an American time and strike movement, the cam lever must be in the deep part of the cam while at the same time the count hook is in the deep slot on the count wheel. I made a note of the position of the stop wheel beforehand and in so doing managed to correctly position it on my first attempt.
I generally run a movement for an hour or so without lubricant to determine if everything is functioning properly. No point in oiling the movement repeatedly if it has the be dis-assembled to correct an issue. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running as it should, I apply oil to the pivot holes.
Having the movement out gave me an opportunity to clean up the case, paint the gong mount and movement rail and give the entire case two coats of shellac (traditional 1 lb cut). The movement is now reinstalled in the case.
With respect to my comments concerning the pivot holes and lantern pinions, putting the movement on a shorter 2-year cycle will enable me to monitor wear.
If you are going to sell a clock this is certainly not how to do it. The image (and there is only one image) is blurry and the person holding the clock looks like they are in their Pajamas. Plus, there are absolutely no details about this clock in the ad, just the price.
Great photos taken from many angles and a thoughtful description are fundamental to selling any clock.
I had just completed servicing this German Mauthe time and strike wall clock and everything seemed to be going well. It was keeping good time,striking on the half hour as it should and maintaining a consistent an 8-day cycle.
During my regular Saturday clock winding ritual, I decided to begin with this clock. I inserted the key into the strike side arbour, began to turn the arbour and “bang” went the mainspring. The winding key almost took my thumb off.
I think I am going to lose that nail
Ignoring the excruciating pain I just had to investigate the problem. I took the movement out of the case and took the dial off. Of course, I feared the worst. A sound like that is never good. The barrel seemed undamaged, the teeth were intact, no bent arbours and there did not appear to be any collateral breakage.
Aha!, there it is, a loose click spring. The click released when there was not enough tension on the click to hold it firmly to the ratchet wheel.
My fault entirely. When I dis-assembled the movement I bent the click springs out of the way and did not recheck the spring’s tension. When I re-assembled the movement the click on the strike side was evidently loose but it looked tight enough. I wondered why the strike side ratchet sounded “tinny” but I thought nothing of it. Now I know.
Clicks on Mauthe movement
I increased the tension of the click spring. To be on the safe side I checked and tightened the time side one as well. Both sides now have that reassuring click-click sound. As you can see in the above photo It is not the best click spring design.
A reminder to anyone working on clocks that potential (or stored) energy in the form of powerful mainsprings can be dangerous. All is well, lesson learned. But my poor thumb!
2018 was a successful year for my horological hobby in many ways. I met interesting people with fascinating stories, discovered new antique clock sources and had fun along the way. The best clock moments, in no specific order, during 2018 were:
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton
Finding an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton double-spring time-only wall clock was a big plus. This clock has been on my wish list for 5 years and I finally found one in excellent condition and the price was within my budget. This brings to seven Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection.
Seth Thomas #2 Regulator
The Seth Thomas #2 has been on my wish list for 5 years as well. This single weight-driven, time-only wall clock is from the 1920s. It is Mahogany veneered and like the Moncton is in very good condition. It is now hung in my front entry way.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
August Schatz & Sohne W3 shelf clock
In August 2017 I asked for help finding a case for my Schatz movement after locating it in an antique store. Little did I realize that I would eventually have that case.
Rear plate
This is the result when you ask a 90 year old cabinet maker and joiner from Virginia to make a case for an August Schatz & Sohne W3 triple chime movement.
August Schatz & Sohne W3 mantel clock
A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem
Selling clocks
I sold two clocks this year not because I did not like or appreciate them but I must pare down my collection to allow space for new acquisitions. The Juba Schatz “bim-bam” time and strike mantel clock was one
Juba Schatz time and strike clock
and the other, a Mauthe Westminster mantel clock.
Acquiring new tools
Aside from small hand tools acquired this year, the most significant purchase was an L&R Ultrasonic cleaner which does a terrific job of cleaning clock parts.
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Setting up and organizing my workshop
I managed to create space in my basement for an area to work on clock cases and other related woodworking tasks. A new drill press is on the far bench to the left.
New work area in basement
Cuckoo clock
My first cuckoo clock was a gift from my cousin this past year. It is in good working order but it will need a new set of bellows which will be one of my summer projects in 2019.
Dave’s cuckoo clock
Antiquevintageclock.com
I am pleased that my blog has also been very successful with over 93,000+ total views. I would like to thank all those who commented on articles and those who sent me letters concerning their particular clock issue.
I look forward to this new year and I am sure that 2019 will be an equally successful year as I further my horological pursuits.
My kids stress every year over what to get dad for Christmas. They know that I am an avid antique clock collector and they know that I love to restore and repair antique and vintage clocks. They always ask, “Is there anything he needs”. I have all the tools I need and certainly all the clocks that I want. The fact that they think about it pleases me.
However, it is the little things I always appreciate in my Christmas stocking. Kids, if you want to give me something put a new pair of cloth gloves, a box of toothpicks, cotton swabs, or a paintbrush in my Christmas stocking so I know that you are thinking of me.
Sure, I would love to have that elusive Martin Cheney wall clock or the pride of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, the Regulator #1 but even if they find that special clock for me it would spoil my personal journey to find that special clock.
Christmas is a time of joy, not of giving, unless the giving is in the form of love and appreciation for friends, family and colleagues.
So, if you are looking for that special gift for the clock lover in your family remember the simple things.
Regular viewers may recall this post in September 2018. Added are new photos and additional information on this project.
I wrote about this Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock barn find in a previous article. It has been a test bed for case restoration techniques I have never attempted before.
A barn find clock in pieces (next photo) is a challenge for anyone. It was missing some parts and as I began to take an inventory of what I required to get this clock running after so many years I discovered that I had enough to make something of it and whatever was missing could be easily sourced. Those key parts? Not so simple, as I will explain later
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock, a barn find
Ansonia Extra Drop barn find, drop access door is missing
There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.
This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2-inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door which I was missing, opens downwards. Other Drop Extra variations have access doors open to the side. Mine will also open downwards.
Drop door from another clock in open position
I assembled all the pieces I had from the barn find. Missing were small trim pieces, the pendulum bob and leader, the clock hands and verge. But two key pieces are required, the brass dial bezel and the drop door. During the course of making inquiries concerning the missing pieces, the movement was serviced and installed in the case. It is running reliably and maintains a full 8-day cycle.
Regarding the drop door. This is obviously not a piece I could buy from a clock supplier. The first step was to take the measurements and construct the frame. I cut pine wood from an old Ogee donor clock. I began with a door frame. The frame is about 7 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches high leaving a snug fit between the top and side opening.
Using my table saw I cut the appropriate lengths, assembled the frame and then glued the ends together (next photo). I put a weight on the frame for 24 hours to prevent warping. Pine moulding sits atop the frame to accommodate the rosewood veneer.
Pine frame is 7 X 4 1/2 inches
Test fitting the door frame
I cut a single 1 inch piece of doweling with a 3/8 inch crown. The result? Too wide and the crown was too high. The wide trim and high crown meant that the hinges would not function properly and it looked odd.
First attempt; the trim is too wide and too high
I wanted to duplicate the one in the next photo.
Ansonia door from a similar clock in closed position and also showing a narrow molding
I discarded the moulding, kept the sub-frame and made smaller pieces which looked quite a lot better.
I cut a section from 1 1/4 inch doweling resulting in a 3/16 inch crown. My stock Rosewood veneer is only 6 inches wide which I then cut into strips. I veneered the entire 26 inch piece using medium strength pearl hide glue. I used foam blocks to press the veneer into the moulding clamping at each end of the section.
First part of a 26 inch strip after gluing and clamping
Veneering is just about complete
Clamping in stages using sponge blocks; the wood strip allows equal pressure along each section
The veneer was applied in stages since I had only two clamps that were appropriate for this project. After applying the first strip I learned that wetting the veneer on the top side allowed it to take the shape of the moulding. I then cut the strip into 4 mitered sections, glued the sections onto the frame and applied 2 coats of Brazilian Rosewood stain. At first I was reluctant to stain the veneer but using a test piece and applying two coats of shellac I discovered that the shade was too light in comparison to the veneer on the clock case.
Test fitting the 4 sections, prior to gluing
Glued (Hide Glue); weight placed on the moulding and frame
Finial and knob
Two 1/2 inch hinges were used plus a knob salvaged from an Ogee donor clock.
Knob and 3/4 inch hinges
Knob from Ogee clock
Glass added and door in place
The 3/4 inch hinges allow the door to drop down
Ansonia Drop Extra wall clock
It is certainly not perfect and there is much I could improve upon in the next project. I have a door knob that will fit with some modifications (see above) but that is a small project for another day. A glass decal would also be a nice addition.
Beyond this I can go no further with this project. The brass bezel still alludes me though I might have a lead on one from an antique shop owner in Connecticut (USA).
This Ansonia Extra Drop is an attractive but incomplete clock with a interesting story and a test-bed for case restoration.
During my travels through Ontario, I acquired a Seth Thomas Regulator #2, one of my newest additions. I discovered this clock in Bloomfield, a quaint village just minutes from Picton, a major hub in Prince Edward County renowned for its many wineries.
I first spotted the clock during a summer visit to the local antique shop and deliberated over the purchase for quite some time before finally deciding to take the plunge in the fall. These clocks are a rare find, and with the price being right and the clock in excellent condition, it felt like an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.
Perhaps best known as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was a fixture in many railway stations across the country during the last century—a testament to its accuracy and dependability. Robust, precise, well-engineered, and reliable, this timepiece was manufactured by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, an impressive production run of 90 years. Few clocks can boast such longevity. It is an iconic American clock, and every serious clock collector aspires to own one.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2, circa 1922
A classic style, the #2 changed very little over the years. However, certain design characteristics help date the clock. The following identification guide describes dial and case characteristics that will aid in identifying the approximate year the clock was made.
The most distinctive visible characteristic is the design of the base.
The base of the clock
Aside from the distinctive base, all but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear with “T” hands.
The chart also lists the limited run reissue in 1976. Most Seth Thomas aficionados would agree that while the reissue is a handsome and well-made clock that is a testament to the original it is not in the same realm as an authentic Regulator #2 and the prices for these versions reflect accordingly. However, those who have the reissue seem to be pleased with their acquisition.
ccording to the chart, my clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numerals with spade hands, and the bow-tie connecting the wooden dial bezel to the drop is a single piece (earlier versions featured a three-piece bow-tie). The clock includes a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon; however, it is not a true second hand, as it runs off the escapement and takes 80 beats to complete a “minute.”
Measuring 36 ½ inches in height, the clock is veneered in mahogany. The movement is stamped with “77A” in the bottom right corner, with the letter “K” underneath, but it bears no other markings. While some versions of the 77 movement have lantern pinions, this one is equipped with cut pinions.
Are there issues with this clock? Certainly, it is over 90 years old! There is minor loss on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster and paint splatter on the top of the case not visible from the front. Is it really so hard removing a clock when painting a room!
Is it Perfect?
I brought this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car. Removing the pendulum for transport is not a particularly simple process but if you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator this one is no different. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement.
Both the weight and the pendulum must be removed for transport. There is many a story of broken glass when weight and pendulum are free to move around inside the case. To remove the weight, simply unhook it from the cable wheel.
There are minor issues with the dial-face
To remove the pendulum the movement must be taken out. First, the hands are taken off. In this version, the minute hand is held in place with a nut. Older ones have a pin. There are 8 small screws that hold the dial in place. Once the dial is removed, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail are removed. Four cylindrical column posts hold the movement in place. Unscrew these beginning with the bottom two and lift the movement out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.
The trapezoid 77A movement with maintaining power in this clock looks clean. There is evidence of having been worked on in the past as there are 4 punch marks around the winding arbour to close the hole; a common practice in the past to close a pivot hole. Otherwise, the movement looks very good.
Trapezoid 77A movement
Getting the clock to run reliably was a challenge and it took a week or so to sort it out. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop.
Following a process of elimination, I removed the movement, inspected it for wear, found very little, oiled the pivots, and returned the movement to the case. I installed the dial, then the hands. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop. I removed the hands and dial; left the dial off but reinstalled the hands. Still, it would run only a few minutes. I then took the dial and hands off. I ran the movement for four days to eliminate any underlying issues and to convince myself that the problem lay in the positioning of the hands. The problem was definitely with the positioning of the hands.
On day five, I put the dial back on, then the second hand ensuring that there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the face. Next, I put the hour hand on the pipe and pressed it in far enough to clear both the second hand and the minute hand. I attached the minute hand, inspected it for sufficient clearance, and screwed it in place. I started the clock.
Success at last! Regulating the clock is fairly simple and is achieved by turning the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and in beat to function properly.
I used Murphy’s Soap to clean the grease and grime from the case. I chose to leave the paint splatter intact, as it adds a bit of character to the clock. Additionally, I polished the brass weight and pendulum bob to restore their shine.
The view from our front door
This clock boasts a striking appearance and a rich, illustrious history, making it a perfect addition to the front entrance of our home. Unfortunately, its journey over the past 90+ years remains a mystery.
The question of whether it qualifies as a “true regulator” is a debate for another time.
This is Part III, the last of a three-part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part two can be found here.
This antique Victorian style German time and strike FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased from a family living in Truro Nova Scotia that once resided in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago.
I have covered movement servicing in a previous article and now for case restoration. The case is part walnut veneer with softwood turns, frame and backboard, likely pine or poplar. All original wood surfaces were stained or lacquered to resemble walnut.
Time and a harsh environment have not been kind to this once majestic clock as the finish was in very poor condition. Stripping the case was my only option.
Mauthe crown, missing right finial
Base of clock
Stripping and staining were quite straightforward but time-consuming. After rubbing with steel wool I applied stain called Special Walnut, a light stain by Minwax which had the effect of enriching the grains even further. After the case was sanded I then applied 5 coats of shellac making the shellac in the traditional way with flakes and alcohol. I found a 1 lb cut ideal for this project.
The finish was probably the worst aligorating I have seen
Turned door column
Refinished corner section
As mentioned in a previous post, the movement was cleaned and two bushings were installed on the time side and one on the strike side. It was mounted in its case and has completed a successful testing period.
Although I was pleased with my work on the top door crosspiece, I could not find one clock online with a crosspiece similar to it from that period. Back to the drawing board!
Ogee style crosspiece on top of the front access door, stained to match case (later removed)
An Internet search for clocks of that style and period revealed that every clock had an arched top trim piece much like this Junghans Crispi wall clock from 1899.
Walnut veneer is preferred but I had to make do with oak plywood. Oak has a more pronounced grain but the end result looks good. Using a router I cut 3/16 inch oak veneered plywood into 2 curved pieces. Making a turn on a router is not as easy as it looks and it took me several attempts to get it right. After the 2 sections were cut (left, right and joining in the middle) I applied a darker walnut stain to match the case. I then covered the pieces with several coats of shellac then glued the two sections onto the top door frame.
The arched trim piece is an improvement and more in keeping with the design of the clock at that time.
Arched trim
The top finial was purchased from a supplier and stained to match the two lower finials.
The top final is new and stained to match the other two
Unfortunately, there is not much I can do about the darkened celluloid dial. Celluloid dials are almost impossible to clean. Replacement is an option but it would look out of place.
Celluloid dial with brass centre piece
The clock is now finished. The last step is regulating the movement.
The following is a breakdown of the costs & work completed:
Costs:
Purchase price $100
Amber shellac flakes, alcohol, brushes, containers – $75 (this cost will be spread over future projects)
Razor scraper for glass cleaning, $5
Finial $3
Furniture stripper $10
Suspension spring $4
3/16 inch plywood $12.95
Corner doweling for the crown (left side) $6
TOTAL: $212.95
Traditional shellac is the only way to go
Work done:
Case stripped down to bare wood with furniture stripper, all surfaces except side frames
Sanded case
1 coat of Minwax “Special” walnut stain which is lighter than dark walnut
5 coats of shellac, 1 lb cut, rubbed with fine steel wool between coats.
Crosspiece for top of door fashioned from kitchen cabinet moulding, stained to match case, shellacked (later removed)
Arched top door insert made from 3/16″ oak veneered plywood, stained and shellacked
Adler gong and rails, cleaned & repainted
Beat plate cleaned and made flat, as flat as possible without damaging it!
Centre pan of dial face cleaned
Hands painted with flat black acrylic metal paint (2 coats)
New top centre “curtain rod” finial from Lee Valley, stained and shellacked, hole drilled for support post
Crown support rail constructed of softwood
Movement disassembled & cleaned in ultrasonic. Unable to remove the spring barrels. 3 bushings installed
Glass removed, scraped of shellac residue, cleaned and reinstalled. The residue told me that the case had been shellacked at least once in the past
The finished product
A satisfying project that resulted in the transformation of a clock that had been ignored for too long. its underlying beauty can finally be appreciated. Would I do things differently in the future? For the most part, no but there are some minor things I would approach in a different way. Case restoration is a learning process and each new project presents an interesting and unique challenge.
The clock has now been returned to its former glory and will now occupy a prominent location in my home.
I discovered this Arthur Pequegnat Moncton in an antique store in Bloomfield, Ontario. I had my eye on it during a visit to the antique shop this past summer (2018), thought about it before taking the plunge later in the fall to buy it. These clocks do not come up very often and the price was right.
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 until the company closed its doors in 1941. The clock firm was originally founded in 1903 by Saas & Ford but was purchased by Arthur Pequegnat the following year.
Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Arthur Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada. However, the use of city names began to decline in the late 1920s when models such as the Eclipse and Swan were introduced. Arthur Pequegnat also showed his patriotism to the Royal family and to Canada and therefore named a number of models, the Monarch, the King Edward, the Maple Leaf, the Dominion, the Canadian Time and so on.
Pendulum, beat plate & centre cut rounded bottom
Pequegnat made mantel, parlour clocks, as well as Mission, kitchen, gingerbread, tambour, wall, and floor models (hall clocks). In most households of the period, a clock was a decorative status symbol, not just a timepiece, and was displayed in a prominent place in the home—usually the parlour.
Prices increased over the period the Pequegnats were in business but ranged from four dollars for the Midget to seven dollars for the simple round Toronto model, to $112 for the Alberta floor model in mahogany. The wide variety of designs and relatively low prices appealed to many Canadians. Today, the appeal of these timepieces remains as Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors.
This, the Moncton, is the seventh Arthur Pequegnat clock in my collection. This clock is named after a city in the province of New Brunswick (Canada). It is only fitting that Pequegnat supplied clocks to the railway as Moncton was once a rail hub for the Canadian National Railway.
This clock is in good condition overall. It has a 12 inch Arabic dial with simple, bold numbers. The pierced spade hands are attractive and are a feature on many Pequegnat wall clocks. It has a fumed quarter-sawn oak case, is 35 inches high with a hinged 16 inch oak bezel door that swings to the right to reveal the dial. The drop door is 14 ½ inches high by 10 ¾ inches wide and also swings to the right. The clock is 5 inches deep with wall stabilizers on either side of the case. The pendulum bob is brass over iron with an oak pendulum rod. The dial glass appears to be original and has the “waviness” you would expect with glass that is over 80 years old.
View of lower case
Although the lower glass has the same waviness it appears to have been changed out early in the clocks life as the retaining rails look to be replacements. Unfortunately, it is missing the label. Other minor issues are a small scratch on the dial face that is visible when the light is right and a screw hole on the back panel just below the beat plate to secure the clock to the wall. Evidently the stabilizers were not used.
This clock was made after 1916. Those made prior to that date were inscribed “Berlin” (Ontario) on the dial. On 1 January 1917, anti-German sentiments in Canada during the First World War spurred residents of Berlin, Ontario to change the city’s name to Kitchener. This is the only definitive way of dating a Pequegnat clock so, this clock would be between 80 and 100 years old. The Moncton wall clock was manufactured almost as long as the company was in existence.
The Moncton is a 15-day time-only clock with two winding arbours on the dial face. This is achieved by means of two mainsprings both of which are wound at the beginning of the running cycle releasing their power together. Two other wall clocks, the Regina and the King Edward (variant) were also available with a 15-day double spring movement. However, unlike most spring driven clocks that have recoil escapements this movement has a Graham deadbeat escapement which contributes to its accuracy. The seconds hand is not a true second hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. As a testament to its accuracy and dependability many of these clocks were ordered as train station clocks across Canada.
Two winding arbours for double spring time-only movement
The “Moncton” came in two basic styles. One was made for Canadian National Railways and was five centimeters (two inches) shorter than the regular model. Some such as this one, were fitted with a seconds hand on a separate dial above the main hands. This feature is also found on the Regulator I which was Pequegnat’s most accurate model. The 1st Issue was 33 1/4 inches high by 15 1/2 inches wide with the triangular bottom. The 2nd issue of the clock has a height of 33 1/4 inches and a width of 16 inches with a centre cut rounded bottom. The 2nd issue clock is also found with cases that measure 35 inches in height such as this one.
Moncton first issue, Roman Numeral dial
The “Moncton” was first featured in the 1913 catalogue and the again in the 1918, 1920 to 1925 Wall Clock catalogues and Pequegnat’s final catalogue put out in 1928.
The Moncton closely resembles the Seth Thomas #2 in size and shape down to the seconds hand, 80BPM and beat plate but unlike the #2, the Moncton is spring driven. The Moncton was an alternative to the #2 which was a well made American regulator but costlier and with a shorter running cycle.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
The seller tells me that the clock came from the north of Toronto (Ontario) and apologized for not knowing more about its history. He has had it for about 1 ½ years.
I removed the dial to inspect the movement. As expected it is large and heavy with solid plates mounted to an iron frame. It is not difficult to see that it was designed to be rugged and dependable. I did not check the back plate but judging from what I see on the front plate there appears to be little wear. The first wheel on the right side is the only one that has a newer bushing. Given its condition it was well cared for and did not have a hard life.
Large and heavy time-only movement
This clock has been on my wish list for some time.”Monctons” are up for sale from time to time, but they are getting harder to find. I have seen examples come and go but this one is in great shape and the time was right to add it to my collection.
This is Part II of a three part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe (Friedrich Mauthe Schwenningen) wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part III, in a week or so, will cover case repairs and refinishing.
This attractive antique Victorian style German FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro. Nova Scotia over 100 years ago.
Why would someone solder the minute hand to the arbour
In this post I will discuss servicing of the time and strike movement.
As I began taking off the dial I noticed that the minute hand had been soldered to the arbour. Not only that, it was in backwards. A taper pin should secure the minute hand, not solder. Using a butane torch I freed the hand. Once the hands are off, removing the dial requires pulling 4 pins from the support posts. Following that, the bottom rail, which is secured by two machine screws, is removed. Now to work on the movement.
Very dirty movement, in need for a good cleaning
Before we do that, let’s look at the numbers on the back plate. 105 is the number of beats per minute, 42 is the length of the pendulum rod in centimeters. The number 55006 is a patent number which was issued to Heinrich Kielmann (Ruhrort/Rhein) in 1890/1 and concerned the method of hanging the pendulum. The number 20934 refers to a production run but I have no idea what date is assigned to that number. The Adler gong has the FMS eagle on the block and from my research the eagle was placed on gongs going forward in 1898. Therefore, the clock is from about 1898 – 1905.
Coiled gong and gong block by Adler
The movement has not been serviced in some time. Expecting to see a significant amount of wear, I was pleased to discover the movement in generally good condition.
The pallets had little or no wear and the escape wheel likewise looked good. The pivots had very little wear and polished up nicely. There were 4 pivot holes that needed some degree of attention. I decided that two on the strike side were not so bad that they could wait but two others were quite worn, the centre wheel, front and the motion works wheel just above it. This is expected as these wheels carry most of the load from the mainsprings.
2 of 3 Bushings were installed for these pivots
The count wheel strike and motion works
After a 30 minute cleaning cycle the solution was quite dirty, in fact so dirty that I disposed of the solution
I take plenty of photos as an aid in helping me relocate the movement parts on reassembly. Sometimes the wheels on the strike and time side look similar. In the case of this movement there was no confusing which side the wheels should go.
I disassembled the movement and placed the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner. After a 30 minute cycle the solution was very dirty, in fact so dirty that I disposed of the solution (it is biodegradable). Reassembly was straightforward as most of the adjustments to the strike side occur outside the plates, unlike a typical American time and strike movement where there a myriad of levers and helper springs that seem to pop out when you you are trying your best to get everything set up between the plates.
As a side note, Mauthe did make time and strike movement with the count wheel located between the plates and with conventional wire levers.
The only critical adjustment is the stop wheel which has to be in the correct position otherwise the strike will not function correctly. Trial and error is needed to get this right but I set it correctly on the first attempt.
Stop pin on the strike train; positioning the stop pin upon reassembly is critical
Unfortunately, I do not have a test stand tall enough for this movement and the case was used to test the movement. The movement slides in and out on a set of rails making it relatively easy to make the necessary adjustments.
Cleaned, reassembled and installed in the case for testing.
One issue, a broken suspension spring. Could have been my handling of the movement or it was already broken. Nevertheless, my order from the supplier arrived and the spring has been replaced. Most clockmakers would agree that it is a good practice to replace the suspension spring as they weaken with age.
During testing the strike side was sluggish and would not engage from time to time. I attributed this to an enlarged pivot hole on the star wheel, back plate one of the two I noticed earlier. The new bushing was a very small #7 Bergeon at 0.80 mm (inside dimension) with very little margin for error. With the new bushing (a total of 3 for the movement) the strike side was still sluggish. After taking the movement apart again I found a slightly bent arbour on the second wheel of the strike side which I fdiscovered when I attached it to my lathe. Using a hollowed punch tool I straightened it out.
Broken suspension spring
The reassembled movement was oiled and mounted in the clock case. The recoil escapement is adjustable and a slight tweaking of the verge corrected the beat. After a few frustrating adjustments exacerbated by a bent arbour, the movement is running well after servicing.
Next, I will cover case refinishing for this fine old clock.
NOTE: After completing this project I designed and built an extension for my movement test stand to allow me to work on movements with long pendulums such as this one.
This is Part I of a three part series on restoring this beautiful 1900s Mauthe wall clock.
This Victorian style German wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago. I found the clock on a local online for-sale site. It looked interesting but there was no price listed. I contacted the seller but they were asking considerably more than I was willing to pay. I explained the work that had to be done to the case, servicing of the movement and the fact that had it been in better condition they would easily receive more for the clock. I concluded the phone conversation with my top offer for the clock. They contacted me 4 days later and met my price.
Celluloid dial with brass centre pan
Open containers of Kerosene usually indicate that the owner thought the vapor would lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed
It is a (FMS) Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an Adler gong. I have been assured by the seller that the clock is original in every way and using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information I was provided. The eagle emblem on the Adler gong suggests that it was made after 1898.
The seller said the movement was maintained regularly. For years a small thimble of liquid was placed inside the clock to keep it lubricated though she could not recall what the liquid was. I said that this was a wide practice in the old days of keeping a clock movement lubricated, a folk remedy that might work but was not ideal. In fact, from about 1850 to 1920 roads were dirt, dust was everywhere, and people depended on their clocks. They routinely took the dial off and swabbed the movement out with kerosene. They often used a little brush, made with a few chicken feathers. Kerosene (paraffin) was available everywhere and, if used often, was probably an excellent way to rinse away the dust and at the same time oil the movement for a while. A little cup, a thimble or a greasy medicine bottle of kerosene was placed inside the clock case to maintain lubrication. Open containers of Kerosene indicate that the owner thought the vapor would slowly evaporate and lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed.
What to do about the case
The finish is alligorated. Alligorated finishes are those that have encountered heat damage and are characterized by a finish (shellac or lacquer) that softens and pools into globules collecting dirt as it re-hardens.
For this project I essentially have three options,
Leave the case as-is,
Attempt to dissolve the alligorating using a solution (see ingredients below) or
Strip the case down to the bare wood.
I eliminated the first option. The case is very unsightly.
On to option number 2. I first attempted to dissolve the alligorated finish using a mixture of turpentine, kerosene and white vinegar combined with #0000 steel wool and while I was able to soften the globules the surrounding area lightened considerably. The net effect was a blotchy finish.
While taking the glass panels out I noticed a residue of shellac on the edges of the glass panels, so, I was dealing not only with the original finish but whatever had been applied over the original finish.
On to the last option, stripping the case
To remove the finish I used EZ Strip, a non-caustic and Eco-friendly product. Though it was non-caustic I wore gloves and ensured that my workspace had good air flow. EZ Strip is jelly-like and relatively easy to work with. After allowing it to sit on the finish for 20-30 minutes it is ready to strip. Despite the ease of application it required rubbing and scrubbing to take off the original finish to the bare wood.
This is the finish when I received the clock
This is the crown before stripping,
The crown
And after.
The finish is removed from the crown
As the case is missing a trim piece on the upper part of the door I fashioned a piece from some cabinet trim. A new slotted wooden stabilizer that secures the crown to the case was constructed of softwood. This you cannot see but it ensures that the crown stays securely on the top of the case. Also missing is a corner piece on the left side of the upper crown. Cove moulding works well. I purchased a finial from Lee Valley and it worked well for this project.
Removing the old finish had an immediate effect. The grain of the walnut veneer that had been hidden all these years was finally exposed.
Case is stripped, awaiting sanding, stain and final finish
For the final finish I will use shellac prepared in the traditional way. This is my first experience with shellac flakes and it is best to begin with a light consistency called a 1 lb cut. This is approximately a 1:8 ratio of shellac to alcohol. Therefore, 1 oz (28g) of shellac is dissolved in 8 fl oz (236ml) of denatured alcohol. I plan to use a French polish technique and apply the shellac and a broad artists brush to coat the turned sections.
Why is it frustrating asking for advice on social media?
I posted my case restoration project on a popular online clock site. I was seeking advice on working with shellac and while I received good advice the discussion quickly morphed into a debate about whether or not it is ethical to strip a case. There was significant division. Those on one side said they would do very little but clean it up or take the objectionable dirt off the finish while the other side posited that if presented with a situation where the finish was so poor that you could not appreciate the beauty of the veneers, a stripping is an acceptable alternative. Although both arguments have merit some of the posters were somewhat indignant and considered it a heresy to do anything at all to a clock case. There will always be both sides of the argument and I respect that.
See servicing of the movement and the final finishing of the case in Parts II and III, in the weeks to come.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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