Tag: mechanical

Buying an antique clock – how to

Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site

This post explores buying tips for novice antique clock buyers. Those looking for an antique clock in general rather than a specific type or model of an antique mechanical clock will find the following tips very useful.

Vintage versus antique

According to the United States Government publications, the term “antique” is reserved for valuables that are over a century old. Webster’s dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Wikipedia defines the word antique as applying to objects at least 100 years old.

Restored Seth Thomas antique column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock circa 1865

According to eBay, vintage is a defined period from 1920 to 1969. The use of the word vintage in online auctions and elsewhere is becoming more and more like the word “rare”. Some may define “vintage” as anything that was purchased less than 24 hours ago, is dirty and worn, or looks like it might be old if you know nothing about its history. Sellers often do not know anything about what they are selling and often describe the item as “vintage”.

Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock circa 1930

The word “collectible” is also used, just like the word vintage has been misused. Just about anything sold these days is marketed as a collectible if not vintage. Most serious buyers would agree that when it comes to clocks younger than 100 years old but older than 30 they are considered vintage and collectible is anything within 30 years.

Antique clock buying tips

Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgment based on online images, most of which are of poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. The sad stories of people who thought they bought an antique clock with a mechanical movement only to find a  quartz one when the clock arrived at their door are not fiction. This and other examples are the many challenges facing the antique clock shopper in today’s online world.

I am not a firm believer in purchasing an antique clock online based on images unless one is very familiar with and respects the reputation of the seller. Although you may find that special clock online my advice is to see the clock in the flesh prior to making your final decision.

Simon Willard banjo clock circa 1810

Questions you might ask yourself prior to the purchase

  • Will I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
  • Will it work when I get it home?
  • What do I have to do to fix it if something is wrong and what could I pay to fix it?
  • What did the seller not disclose? What are the little surprises that await me when I get home?
“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump

3 Simple rules for antique clock buying

Here are 3 simple rules on how to buy that special antique clock you’ve always wanted.

1. Locate the antique clock

  • The style and type of antique clock is a personal preference. I prefer wall clocks over mantel clocks, parlour over gingerbreads, and Ogees over cottage clocks.
  • If it is a local online inquiry meet with the seller to finalize the sale. If the clock is found in an antique shop or antique mall you will not be dealing with the seller (there are exceptions) but an agent who may know absolutely nothing about the clock.
  • Avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31-day” clocks. Although they are normally reliable runners, clock-makers will tell you that they are not worth fixing. None are antiques.

2. Ask a lot of questions

  • Does the clock run?
    • A running clock has more value than a non-running example. Ask the seller to demonstrate a running clock.
  • Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
    • Manufacturers make both inexpensive and quality clocks (there are exceptions). Seth Thomas, a respectable American clock-maker manufactured inexpensive clocks that have little value and higher-end models that are very desirable by collectors. The name alone does not always equate to value.
  • Has the clock been altered in any way?
    • Newer case pieces, decorations, new glass, refinished case, a replacement movement, a replacement pendulum, etc. will reduce the value and sometimes significantly.
  • If it does not run, are all the parts intact?
    • If it has all the parts, can it be repaired either by you, the buyer, or a competent repair person? I know of a time and strike clock that was missing the strike side gears.
  • How old is it?
    • Again, vintage or antique. A clock made in 1919 is now an antique.
    • Does the clock have provenance, an interesting and verifiable history?
  • How long has the seller had it?
    • A cherished family heirloom has more value than an item recently acquired for a quick profit.
  • Would you accept a lower price?
    • Point out specifically why the price should be reduced, missing pieces, non-running, poor condition.

3. Deal directly with the seller

  • By dealing with the seller in person you will always have the opportunity to walk away if you are not satisfied.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock Ca. 1899

Not every antique clock is rare or valuable and some clocks are more desirable than others. That 150-year-old 30-hour Ogee is not as valuable as you might think but a much younger vintage French figural style clock may be worth a lot more.

If you are looking for a very specific type or model of antique clock you will find that it takes time and research to find it but there will be a satisfying reward once found.

Schatz W3 – Installing an 8-rod chime block in a custom made clock case

Some time ago I bought this movement without a case.

Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body

I discovered this Aug Schatz & Sohne W3 (circa 1960) movement at a local antique store for under CAN$20. My wife said, “You should buy that, maybe you can make a case for it”. “Hmm”, I thought; that would be above my pay grade. The movement looked interesting and it was not expensive so, why not! But, having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body but I was confident that one day I would have the solution.

This is a type W3 movement. “W3” refers to three chime tones, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster.

Rear plate
Rear plate of the W3 movement showing chime selector and chime/strike hammers

I put out a plea and two people contacted me to say they had a case that would fit. One lived in Australia and the cost of shipping the case was too high. Another corresponded twice but I sensed he realized that his case would not fit. So, I put the movement away. On a positive note it runs well.

Schatz and Sohne W3 movement installed in a custom case

The pursuit of a custom made case

In the spring of 2018 my son’s girlfriend suggested that her grandfather could build the case. He loves doing this kind of work, she said. Although skeptical at first, I accepted her offer. Though a skilled craftsman her grandfather is over 90 years of age but spends as much time as he can in his woodworking shop in rural Virginia. He agreed to do the work. I sent the measurements to him but he preferred to have the movement in hand so it was sent to Virginia. He was able to use the movement as a guide in constructing the case. The clock was returned to me in December 2018 and it looked absolutely perfect.

Now to the installation of the chime block

The dimensions of the case allowed ample room to place a chime block. The block and rods are 7 1/2 inches long but even so there was not much room to spare on one end. The 8-rod chime block is from a Canadian clock supplier and is designed for a Hermle triple chime movement. There are not a lot of 8-rod chime blocks available through suppliers and given that I had little choice I had to assume that it would work for my clock and it does!

This video describes the placement of the chime block and some experimentation to achieve the optimum sound.

The tapered sections of the rods are an inch long and the hammers must be positioned to strike the wide point of the rods for best results. The oak base was trimmed to fit, allowing for about an eighth of an inch between the rods and the hammers. To close the distance to the rods the hammer wires are bent and centered on the rods. As they are brittle, chime rods should never be bent!

Chime block and oak piece forming the base

Once I was satisfied that the chime block was correctly positioned the block was secured. First I screwed the chime block to the hardwood base with 4 brass slotted screws. And finally, I secured the chime block through the base using two 1 1/4 inch slotted screws through pre-drilled holes.

I gave the case one more coat of shellac before putting it on display.

I am impressed with the outcome. Not all movements have such a happy ending.

Daylight Savings Time – let’s get rid of it!

Trio of clocks

Front room collection
Front room collection

We call it Daylight Saving Time (DST), the British call it “British Summer Time” and “summertime” in other areas. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer while sacrificing normal sunrise times. Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. We have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.

Mauthe buffet clock
Mauthe buffet clock

The idea was proposed by George Hudson in 1885 and first implemented by the Austrian Empire in 1916. Some countries do not recognize it in all regions. In Canada, for example, most of Saskatchewan does not change clocks spring and fall, it technically observes DST year round. Parts of Nunavut remain on Eastern Standard Time throughout the year. In the USA (which has 11 time zones) most areas observe DST with the exception of Arizona and Hawaii. Florida has recently applied to get rid of DST.

I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts

DST clock shifts sometimes complicate timekeeping and can disrupt travel, billing, record keeping, medical devices, heavy equipment, and sleep patterns. Computer software often adjusts clocks. Radio controlled clocks adjust the time automatically which is very convenient. We have two modern Sony clocks in our home which do exactly that.

My only tall-case clcok, Ridgeway, Hamilton Country
My only tall-case clock, Ridgeway, Hamilton Country

But for the 35 clocks that I have running at any given time, that means making a manual adjustment twice a year which is time-consuming and an unnecessary hassle.

There is a constant dispute about the benefits and drawbacks. Proponents say that it conserves energy and has a psychological benefit of extending the daylight hours. Opponents say that the energy arguments are inconclusive. People must remember to change their clocks which is a time-consuming exercise, particularly for antique and vintage mechanical clocks that cannot be moved backward safely.

For most of my clocks I either simply let them complete their cycle, stop them and when the correct time shows on the clock, I start them up. There is less wear and tear on the movement and I think my clocks are happier for it.

But why go through this nonsense; let’s just get rid of DST! I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts. My clocks will appreciate it and yours will too!

Vintage alarm clock – they say rust never sleeps

Vintage Alarm Clock. Other than the rust, everything about it appears to be intact. May still work, just leaving it as is

Yeah, about that rust!

Westclox travel alarm clock made in China

Westclox travel alarm clock

While on a vacation in the Dominican Republic we brought along an old Westclox wind-up mechanical travel alarm clock for no other reason but to have it as a curiosity and of course, to get us up in the morning. You might wonder why an alarm clock is necessary for a relaxing beach vacation. Well, if you have excursions planned for a specific day, it’s essential to wake up early and on schedule.

We’ve all become accustomed to using electronic alarms, like those on our cell phones or tablets, to wake us at a precise time. However, my brief testing showed that this compact travel alarm clock works well, even if it’s not quite as precise.

This is a Westclox travel alarm clock I purchased from a local antique dealer for $6. It’s in excellent condition, suggesting it hasn’t seen much travel. Clocks like this often didn’t fare well with heavy use; once they broke, they were typically discarded.

I would date it to the 1960s. It is very compact, measuring 3 inches square by 1 1/2 inches deep when collapsed. It is in a light brown plastic case and folds into its case when transported. It fits easily into a purse, messenger bag, overnight bag, or suitcase.

Collapsed, the clock fits anywhere
Collapsed, the clock fits anywhere

Unlike older alarm clocks that usually have two separate winding keys, this one combines the winding mechanism for both the bell alarm and the time function into a single key. The center knob is used to adjust the time, while the upper-left knob sets the alarm. Additionally, there is a speed adjustment located just above the center knob.

Red lever is for activating the alarm
The red lever activates the alarm

The three patent numbers on the back of the clock don’t clearly indicate the exact year it was manufactured.

These clocks were produced in large quantities and can often be found for under $10 on online marketplaces or in antique stores.

Back of alarm clock showing setting knobs
Back of the alarm clock shows setting knobs

While many Westclox alarm clocks were produced in Canada and the US, by the 1960s, production shifted offshore to reduce costs. This particular clock was made in China, whereas other similar Westclox alarm clocks from the same era were manufactured in Taiwan.

Westclox alarm clocks were originally produced by the United Clock Company in Peru, Illinois in the late nineteenth century.

The company initially failed, became the Western Clock Co., and again went bankrupt, reorganized under the Western Clock Manufacturing Co., and found success when they acquired the first patent for the Big Ben alarm clock in the early part of the 20th Century. In 1931 Western Clock Co. merged with Seth Thomas with both companies falling under the General Time Corporation. Westclox then became a division of General Time.

Regarding the Canadian connection, a significant number of Westclox alarm clocks sold in North America were manufactured in Peterborough, Ontario, from 1922 to the early 1980s.

Quite often alarm clocks that I find in flea markets and antique shops are dented, missing winding keys and other adjustment knobs which I try to avoid (unless for parts) but this one was complete.

Although I primarily collect clocks, I do have several alarm clocks in my collection. I am selective, adding only those that are particularly interesting, and I avoid clocks with luminous dials from the early 20th century due to the potential exposure to Radium.

Most traveling alarm clocks remain quite affordable, except for certain Swiss and French models.

This clock is an excellent example from a company that was once the undisputed leader in alarm clock production.

Tick Talk Tuesday #13 – Mauthe wall clock circa 1960s

Tick-Talk Tuesday
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.

Modern Mauthe wall clock circa 1970S
Modern Mauthe wall clock circa 1970S

DK writes, “I just received this clock.  I’m hoping you can help me identify it and maybe help me to fix it. I’d like to see if I can repair it if possible. Hope to hear from you.”

I write back, “Can you send a photo of your Mauthe clock with the door closed?”

An attractive wall clock by Mauthe
An attractive wall clock by Mauthe

DK, “I seemed to have fixed it so it is working, however the Lewis girl at the bottom of the pendulum I turn it to increase a time or decrease the time how does it go or work?”

Me, “Your Mauthe clock is from the 1960s. It is a time and strike and should run reliably for years. To adjust the rate, turn the thumbscrew at the bottom of the pendulum clockwise to speed the clock up or counterclockwise to slow it down.”

DK, “Thanks Rockin Ronnie. Does this clock have any value?”

Me, “Not especially. Depends on the market but perhaps upwards of 100US in top condition.”

DK, “Thanks Ron I kind of figured as much. Have yourself a good day and thank you for everything!”

Note: In 1970, Mauthe struggled for survival, and in 1975 the company was in receivership and forced to close in 1976.

Is my clock in beat?

Certainly runs better with the book under one side

You bought a clock. It ran when you first saw it but you bring it home, display it in that very spot you imagined and now it won’t run. 99% of the time this is caused by a clock not being in beat. All mechanical clocks must be set in beat before they will run properly.

Sessions time and strike

I make no attempt to explore the idiosyncrasies of various designs of clock movements. Much of the following information can be found at the forum site of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, NAWCC . At this site there are additional tips on adjusting the beat of 400 day clocks, weight driven Vienna style clocks and so on.

When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop

What does the term “beat” mean?

Make sure your clock is on a level surface. Listen to the tick and the tock of your clock. Try to minimize the sounds in the room you are in so that you can listen closely to it’s rhythm. It is in beat when its ticks and tocks are even….tick…tock…tick…tock…, and is out of beat when they are uneven, either, ticktock…. or tocktick…… Put another way, there will be an equal amount of time between the ticks and the tocks. When a clock is out of beat, it will either not run at all, or it will run for a short time and then stop. It is worth repeating that a clock’s beat must be regular to work properly.

Gilbert calendar clock, the Admiral

There are two ways to put a clock in beat. The first is to tilt the clock sideways, one way or the other, and listen for the beat to even out. When the beat is even, prop the clock to stay tilted that way. Now it will run in beat but it will obviously not look good.

The second way is to adjust the crutch to one side or the other, until the beat is even. The crutch is the rod that extends down from the pallets which rock back and forth on the escape wheel. The pendulum rod passes through either a loop (called a crutch loop) or a forked foot at the end of the crutch as indicated in the photo below. Incidentally, that rod needs to be in the middle of the crutch loop and can’t be tight inside the loop nor too loose. The crutch is attached to the pendulum leader which is then attached to a post with a suspension spring.

Mantel clocks have rear access doors that allow you to adjust the crutch, however for wall clocks you will have to remove the hands (the minute hand is released by a screw or a pin, the hour hand simply pulls off) and the dial face, also attached by screws that come off to reveal the movement. However,minor adjustments to the beat of a wall clock can be preformed by simply moving the clock off-level. It may not be noticeable if the clock is not quite level.

There is no need to take the movement out of its case to perform this procedure.

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American New Haven time and strike movement taken out of its case

If the crutch is a simple rod or wire as in the photo, it is adjusted by bending it to one side or the other (left or right). The brass rod is quite pliable allowing you to re-adjust if necessary. Listen to the beat as you make the adjustments and when you have a steady tick-tock the clock is in beat.

There us nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of a ticking mechanical clock in a room.

If it attaches to the pallets with a friction joint, it is adjusted by holding the pallets still with one hand, and shifting (pushing) the crutch right or left on the friction joint. The adjustment may be very slight in either direction.

plate-clock-movement_6-labels
Time only German movement for a Blackforest shelf clock

You need only to do this once. Whether your clock is a wall clock, a mantel clock, time and strike, time-only or time, strike and chime, the principles are exactly the same. There is no need to take your clock to a professional to have it “fixed”. This is definitely a do-it-yourself procedure. It’s that simple!

There is nothing as pleasant or soothing as the sound of the rhythmic ticking of a mechanical clock in a room especially if it is in beat.

Kienzle World Time clock – a second look

Time sequencer
Kienzle World Time clock
Kienzle World Time clock

I put a quick article together on my newly acquired modern Art Deco brass Kienzle World desk clock in August and with only one photo in my post I really did not do this fine looking timepiece any justice. I hope the following  photos will show that this clock really impresses. As I mentioned in my last post regarding this clock, this is one of many clocks conceived by renounced German designer Heinrich Moeller. Moeller, who was trained as a cabinet maker, began working with Kienzle as chief designer in 1931 and through to about 1970.

On display
On display with Ingraham Huron

This vintage clock is from the period 1950 to 1960 judging from the many offerings on EBay. I noticed that this style is occasionally advertised as a 1960s clock but judging from others I have seen I am fairly confident that this is from 1950 give or take a year. This style seems to be the most desirable of the series. Later ones had quartz movements and were in less demand, judging from the lower prices. The weight is very substantial and it measures 13 and 3/4″H X 10″W X,  2 and 1/2″D.

Back of Kienzle clock
Back showing winding key, speed adjustment access port and time adjustment knob
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Brass bezel

This clock is in excellent condition with minimal wear and tarnish. In fact, observe the front and side views for an appreciation of the pristine condition of this clock.  The case was grimy as one might expect and a little polish brought up the finish very nicely.

Quite often small parts are missing in clocks such as this, for example, the time adjustment knob or the cover for the speed control needle. In this case  everything is completely intact. It is in very good working order and will run for a full 8 days.

Brass base
Decorative brass base

Will I service it? I am not sure. According to comments on the NAWCC message board some members have not had much luck working with this clock. Given that it seems to have had minimal wear and tear it may not have had a lot of use over the years so it might be wise to leave well enough alone, for now. I would like to oil it, however!

Winding crank
Winding crank
Time sequencer
Aperture for the 24-hour day and night indication

I am very pleased with this acquisition. The clock is certainly a singular work of elegance, magnificence, style and a stand-out in any room.

Ingraham Huron – the secret within – Part III

RS April 12th
Minor case restoration completed

Restoring the case was relatively simple. After a thorough cleaning to lift the accumulated grime, a wax overcoat, touch-ups in discrete areas with yellow shellac, the case is very presentable for a 138 year old clock. I cleaned up the brass bezel but left the paper dial untouched. The hands are original and left those alone. The lacquer on the pendulum is still intact; no work needed on it.

And now to a further investigation of the movement.

After taking the dial pan off a couple of days ago my first impression was that the movement appeared to be in good condition. There are a number of newer bushings on the front which would have been expected for a clock of this vintage.  The servicing of the front plate looked like a capable repair. I oiled the front pivots and gave the pendulum a push, adjusted the verge and found a good beat. It ran continuously through the night. The next day I decided that if I were to keep this clock running until I can do some work on it, the movement should come out to oil the back pivots. It must have been years since this movement last saw pivot oil.

No problem. Four screws and out it came.

The secrets of this clock were now being revealed. Here you can see the back plate. I immediately observed several distressing issues with the movement. The first two problem areas are indicated by the white arrows. The left one shows a piece soldered onto the plate to address a pivot issue. The second shows a new bushing where one should not ordinarily be.

RS Ingraham movement (4)
Back plate showing two problem areas

The addition of a new bushing in that location must have been done for a reason. At this point I cannot speculate why it had to be done this way but it looks like shoddy workmanship. Otherwise, I do not see any other conventional bushing work.

You can see that the escape wheel arbor is clearly misaligned in the following photo. It works though theoretically it should not. Despite the fact that the clock is happily ticking away it is a poor fix for an unknown (to me) problem.

RS Ingraham movement (5)
Arrow showing a misaligned escape wheel arbor

The next issue is a soldered lantern pinion seen here just off the main gear (see arrow).

RS Ingraham movement (2)
Soldered lantern pinion

It is not a problem now unless one had to work on the pinions on that gear at some later date.

The fan was also repaired with solder. It looks ugly but it does not effect the running of the clock.

RS Ingraham movement (1)

So what to do? A simple bushing job I can do but serious bushing work is obviously required from someone with the experience and knowledge of Ingraham movements and I don’t have that level of expertise – yet. I may put this aside until  I gain more experience or have it professionally repaired.

I did discover one unusual feature. Although it has a wonderful gong tone on the hour it does not strike on the half hour.

For the moment is is ticking away and keeping good time.

Clocks of Cuba

Tower clock

During two vacation trips to Cuba in the last 4 months I managed to locate a few clocks in my travels. Though some clocks were very intriguing none that I saw save for the tower clocks were in working condition. Nonetheless it made me wonder about their provenance in a land that time seemingly forgot.

At Christmas time my family and I traveled to Trinidad of Cuba. We stayed overnight at Los Helechos Hotel in Topes de Collantes which is located about a half an hour bus ride from Trinidad of Cuba. The next day we spend our time exploring the wonders of Trinidad of Cuba.

I saw some interesting clocks in a couple of restaurants. The first is a Wm L. Gilbert time and strike wall clock with calendar dial from Winsted Conn., USA. It looked like a reasonably well preserved dark walnut regulator clock with an 8-day brass movement with pressed features dating to about the 1900s.

wall clock
Wm L. Gilbert clock found in a restaurant

The next is unknown to me. It is a Spanish clock. Whether or not Malaprade is the maker was difficult to determine as I could find no information on the internet. However, it is clear that this spring wound time-only clock with second hand feature was made in Barcelona. I would date it to pre-1930. It is a relatively short clock and might have been originally designed as a wall mounted clock as it stands less than 5 feet tall. I am not sure what the area around and below the keyhole represents. I cannot make out any sort of design if there is one.

Floor clock
Malaprade Floor or wall clock

Next is a floor clock. Again the maker is unknown. I do not see any winding arbors on the dial face and can only assume that it is weight driven (the weight was not attached) and that the weight (or weights) were pulled up by chain to reset the clock likely once every 8 days. This clock was clearly in meed of restoration as were most of the clocks that I saw.

Floor clock
Floor clock of unknown maker

In March we stayed at the Paradisus Rio de Oro in Holguin province located on Playa Esmeraldo near Guardelavaca. The resort is set on a beach next to Bahía de Naranjo Natural Park. In it are a number of interesting clocks.

Lobby clocks
Time only lobby clocks

There were a total of 4 of these lobby clocks which were originally intended to display time zones for the guests. They are time-only and the cases appeared to be in good shape but I do not think they have been running for quite a while. My thought is that there is nobody at the resort tasked with the responsibility of maintaining these and other fine clocks.

face of clock
Face of unknown floor clock, second hand is missing

RS Tall case clock (2)
Unknown floor clock

This clock actually works though it needs servicing. It is located in an ante-chamber adjacent to a Mediterranean themed restaurant. I opened the front door of the clock and found the rod gong impeding the pendulum. Once I dislodged the gong the clock happily began to function and it was in beat, surprisingly. Although it had two weights there were three winding arbors and I would be curious to see the internal workings of that movement. Inside the door was an official seal from the Ministerio de Cultura.

400 day clock
400 day clock

This 400 day clock was made in Germany. There were no other markings that I could determine. It could be a Kundo Kieninger & Obergfell dating to about the 1940s or so but that is just a guess. It needs a thorough servicing and clearly it has been neglected for some time.

Carriage style clock
Carriage or wall mounted clock

This is another an anniversary mantel clock but it appears to have a wall mounting bracket on the rear. Not sure why as these clocks are not meant for wall mounting. Again, an unknown maker but possibly German and in very poor condition. The front glass looks like it can be lifted up for adjustment purposes.

clock
Clock in a peasants home

While hiking through El Cubana National Forest we came across a small dwelling and we were able to briefly tour inside. In it I found an old quartz clock dating from the 1980s or earlier.

Tower clock
Tower clock at Peublo La Estrella tourist village

Tower clock
Tower clock in Holguin

The first tower clock is located in a tourist village in Cayo Santa Maria called Peublo la Estralla while the next is in a downtown principle square in the city of Holguin. The Olvera clock is a modern electric clock and I am assuming that the tower clock in Holguin might also be electric.

I am told that my next stop in Cuba (another time) should be the Paladar Decameron restaurant in Havana, a fixture in the paladar scene that’s located in the leafy residential district of Vedado. The restaurant is said to said have an old world charm with a collection of various collectibles including antique clocks of all shapes and sizes.

Cuba is a fascinating country and certainly worth exploring time and time again.

Sessions Tambour – Beveled Number 2

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Sessions Beveled Number 2 case

This is a Sessions Tambour style clock that I have been working on for the past two months. I bought it as a non-working clock. As I said in a previous post it is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a mahogany finish with faux inlay just south of the dial. It was made in the late 1920s or early 1930s. The case is finsihed and now for the re-assembly of the movement after a good cleaning.

The clock has a few issues aside from the missing pendulum bob. Once the movement was out I inspected the click on the time side and sure enough it had slipped off the teeth. These clicks were poorly designed and often fail. However I think one for the reasons why the click failed was because the arbor hook detached from the spring somehow, I don’t know for sure. I feel that two are connected. I filed the click, gave the rivet a gentle bang with a hammer to set it more firmly in place and now it seems to work as it should.

I recently bought an Ollie Baker spring winder and this was it’s first test. I had a heck of a time getting the main wheel arbor to hook onto the spring and really had to muscle with the inner part of the spring to get the curvature just right so that it could hook. At first I thought that the hook was the problem but as you can see the hook looks fine. Then I thought the spring was the problem but as I said, perseverance paid off. User interface error I suppose.

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Mainspring arbor and hook

As others have said that is one of the common frustrations of working with clocks. But in the end I managed to get it to hook. The two springs are coiled and secured and are now waiting to be put back onto the movement. But not today! One victory today is enough. I will keep the reader informed as to my further progress with this clock which I am determined to get working.

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Top plate and springs are missing in photo

It all seems to be coming together although like most things worth doing, it takes time. Let me know what you think and if you have a chance I have a poll that you can respond to. Thanks.

Maple Leaf case restoration Part 2

Arthur Pequegnat kichen clock

I have had this Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf fan-top clock for several weeks now and have decided to keep it in my collection. I was not satisfied with the condition of the case when I first saw it and knew that something had to be done. After several hours of work on the case I can finally say that the results have been very good…not excellent because there are one or two things I would have done differently. For example, I originally used a cotton cloth to bring down the finish and ended up rubbing too aggressively in some sections. Looking back I would use 0000 steel wool from start to finish.

This shot is a comparison between the original finish and taken after hours of restoration.

RS Pequegnat fan top (6)
Condition of clock when first brought home

RS fantop
After hours of rubbing and scrubbing

As you can see in the second photo the oak grain is natural and pronounced; the mottling has disappeared. As mentioned there were one or two spots where I was a little too aggressive with the steel wool which I may address later on but for the moment I am going to live with it.

I applied four coats of Amber Shellac and between coats I rubbed the finish with 0000 steel wool. Shellac is the proper approach for case restoration as that product would have been used at that time. The clock now looks very close to what it would have looked like at the time it was made which would be about 1910. The next photo shows the clock fully re-assembled and on display and the next, how it looked when I brought it home.

RS on display
Ready to be brought to the clock shop for repair

RS Pequegnat fan top (3)
Just brought home

Although I am able to dis-assemble, clean and oil a clock mechanism there is a problem with the center arbor not engaging the strike side of the clock. It is off to Doctor Clock in Halifax for repair and cleaning of the movement.

Sessions Tambour Style clock

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Session Tambour clock, movement out of case

This is a Sessions Tambour style clock that, according to the label on the inside back access door is a Beveled Number 2. Seems like an odd name for a clock. It is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a mahogany finish with faux inlay just below the dial. It is a time and strike clock, two hammers striking on rods.  I would put the date of manufacture at the late 1930s or early 1940s. I have 2 other Sessions clocks with a very similar movement so it looks very familiar. This one came without a pendulum bob so I will have to order one from Timesavers. I am not sure at this point whether the bob is a 2.3 oz or 3 oz so I will order both.

The clock has a few issues aside from the missing pendulum bob. I noticed right away that the time side arbor turned freely and therefore it was impossible to wind the time arbor as the click was not engaging the time spring teeth properly. Once the movement was out I inspected the click on the time side and sure enough it had slipped off the teeth.

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The time side click is barely engaged

This is a common problem with this type of movement and a repair is definitely in order. The movement itself is very oily and dirty having been sprayed with some sort of lubricant at one point in its life. There was back gunk  (old caked oil) on some of the pivots but there was not as much play in the bushing holes than I would have expected. The spring issue probably arose early in its life. One thing which I first thought was an issue turns out not to be. As the photo shows there are helper wires between the escapement and the fly.

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Helper wires

They keep the strike levers from bouncing and assure better operation of the striking mechanism. They are in factory installed condition.

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Very dirty movement, time side on left

The case was a little banged up. I did a little sanding with 0000 steel wool, removed dozens upon dozens of white paint drops, filled gouges in the veneer with a red chestnut stain and applied the same stain over the entire finish and it seems to pass for mahogany.

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Case refresh

A little Brasso metal polish was applied to bring the shine up on the bezel and I Windexed the dial glass inside and out. The results, I think, are impressive. As a final stage I will apply a clear coat on the case.

Can I get this clock to work? I am convinced that if I can fix the time side click, give it a thorough cleaning, this clock will run fine for a long time.

U M Muller Box Clock

Probably not a household name in its time, yet U. M. Müller produced clocks that could stand proudly beside the finest German makers of the early 20th century. Their box clocks, in particular, became strong competitors, capturing a market that was shifting away from the ornate Vienna regulator toward something more modern, practical, and affordable. By the 1930s, the sleek German box clock—with its simpler lines and middle-class appeal—had all but closed the Vienna regulator era.

This particular U. M. Müller is a striking example. The oak case features delicate carved inlays on the door, brass strip framing, and a fixed wood crown, giving it a stately presence. The brass bezel surrounds a metal dial with spade and spear hands, while beveled glass framed in brass completes the look. Wall stabilizers ensure a secure mount, reminding us that this was a clock built not just for beauty, but for reliability.

after a good cleaning (4)
All original German box clock

The case itself has aged beautifully, with no noticeable scratches or blemishes. The dial, however, tells a different story—its surface bears marks and abrasions, including one between the 6 and 7 where the paint is worn through to bare metal. It is not repairable, but it does speak to the long life and service this clock has seen.

U M Muller clock (9)
Incorrect use of a cleaning agent

Inside, the movement is a classic rack-and-snail time and strike. The clock chimes on a coiled gong—bold at the half hour, more resonant on the hour, but never harsh. As with most spring-driven movements, one should not expect chronometer precision. Still, this example proves steady and reliable, keeping “regular” time across its full 8-day cycle.

U M Muller clock (2)
Inlay carvings meets brass strip framing

After a careful cleaning and waxing, the case now shows hints of what it must have looked like when new—over 90 years ago.

U M Muller clock (4)
2 screws are loosened to remove the movement

Collectors often date U. M. Müller clocks by the lion trademark on the dial. A raised tail indicates pre-1930 manufacture; a lowered tail, as on this example, places it in the mid to late 1930s.

after a good cleaning (1)
An attractive addition to our kitchen

According to Schmid’s Lexikon, the company’s roots trace back to 1867 in Mühlheim. After passing through several hands—including R. Schnekenburger around 1880 and later Gebrüder Müller—the brand built a legacy of solid, handsome clocks that still charm collectors today.

Smiths Enfield Mantel Clock

Restoring and repairing antique clocks is a rewarding and sometimes challenging journey, and my latest project has been no exception. I recently acquired a time-and-strike mantel clock from the Enfield Clock Company, a British manufacturer known for its utilitarian designs, especially post-war.

Smiths Enfield time and strike mantel clock

In this article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing the steps I’ve taken so far, the challenges I’ve faced, and what I’ve learned along the way.

The Enfield Clock Co. & Association with Smiths

The Enfield Clock Company’s history is as intriguing as the clocks they produced. Established in 1929, Enfield became known for its mass-produced timepieces, manufactured using modern assembly line techniques inspired by American factory systems.

By the early 1930s, Enfield was manufacturing clock movements that were sold wholesale, eventually leading to the formation of the Smiths Enfield brand after the company was sold to Smiths Industries in 1933. The clocks, particularly those produced in the 1950s, reflected the utilitarian, post-war aesthetic of the time.

Initial Observations

When I first examined the clock, I could tell that it had been worked on by someone with a tinkerer’s touch, rather than a skilled clockmaker. Although its striking mechanism sounded great and the clock was visually appealing, I knew it required a thorough service to restore its functionality.

This clock occasionally stopped for no apparent reason and was difficult to keep in beat, prompting me to learn more about clock repair. The movement was relatively simple, with two trains, so I set out to clean and service it. As I worked through the process, I encountered some challenges, including an unhooked mainspring and worn pivot holes, but I made progress nonetheless. Though I had to delay some repairs due to my limited experience, I gained valuable insights into the inner workings of this timepiece and look forward to continuing the restoration.

Two pivot holes on the back plate were a little worn but not enough to cause any issues at this time. However, since I know very little about bushing work at this point I think it wise to put off repairs until I know how to do the work. A bushing machine is on the horizon but limited funds do not permit me to tackle those more in-depth repairs just yet. Anyway, back to the movement.

Movement showing hammer, and pendulum leader and bob

While reassembling the strike side the mainspring unhooked. I am not sure why. I was prepared to disassemble the movement to reattach the mainspring but a little wiggling corrected the problem.  Once the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner and the parts were dried, the movement was assembled and oiled. There are two adjusting two screws on either side of the verge that determine the correct height between the pallets and the escape wheel. Through trial and error, I was able to get a good pendulum swing and a steady beat.

Tricky clip

I decided not to re-attach the 2 clips just yet since it would not take much to break them. Only after the clock has been running reliably and striking correctly will I reattach the clips.

Two ratchets

Not a good design in my view and I wonder if these clocks were ever meant to be worked on after they left the factory.

In the next article, I will share my experiences as I continue to restore this time-and-strike mantel clock, detailing additional steps I’ve taken so, the challenges I’ve faced with this project, and what I’ve learned along the way.

Daniel Dakota wall clock

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models

No serious collector would admit that they have a Daniel Dakota wall clock in their collection. I have two!

The clcok that started my collection, a humble Chinese clock that still ticks today.

One was converted to quartz. The other was gifted to a family member. Are they attractive clocks? The functional styling is borrowed from American and German box clocks; they are not what one would consider a beautiful clock.

One Daniel Dakota clock was given to me. I took it to a local clock repair person. I will not say he was a competent clock-maker because he was not at all interested in repairing this clock or any other clock for that matter. His method of maintaining a profitable business consisted of replacing every mechanical movement with a quartz one. However, with my blessing he pulled out the movement because it was “broken” and installed a quartz movement. I found out later that a very little work was needed to make this mechanical movement run again.

A previous owner attempted to wind the clock in the wrong direction using a pair of pliers and popped the mainspring out. Though a simple to fix I now have a working movement with no case.

The case was in sad shape. Not surprising since clocks such as this one were never taken care of properly. I removed tacky plastic trim, added two rosettes, re-stained damaged sections of the case and cleaned the glass.

The quartz movement is a Westminster / Whittington chime with auto night shut off. Although many quartz movements can be found around the $10 range this was well over $100. Although there not marking on the movement I believe this one was made by Sieko. Quartz movements can be pricey when you factor in 2 chime tones, a pendulum, auto shut off and so on.

Daniel Dakota movement
Daniel Dakota movement

My other Daniel Dakota is in the midst of a good cleaning and undergoing some slight adjustments. It is missing a bottom trim piece but I doubt that it will ever be replaced. The bottom piece was likely taken off so that it could sit on a shelf.

Daniel Dakota wall clock, one of Tempus Fugits more popular models
Daniel Dakota missing bottom trim piece

Daniel Dakota movement dis-assembled and parts spread out

Chinese movements are not made to the same tolerances as a fine German or American movements. The plates are thin, there are plastic parts (though not on this movement) and no supplier has replacement parts. They have an amazing ability to last almost forever and the manufacturer knew that they would never be serviced. A throw-away mechanical clock in the Chinese tradition of mass marketing. However, you can breathe new life into these movements with a thorough servicing.

Although Daniel Dakota is a successful marketing brand name, you will not find a company site anywhere online. There are many suppliers associated with the name and no single factory where they are produced. Daniel Dakota clocks are sold by many a variety of retailers across North America and they are regarded as a low cost, low quality utilitarian clock for the average home.

The next time you hear someone criticize Daniel Dakota clocks remind them that although they are very inexpensive or can be picked up for almost nothing they will run for many years with very little care.

Blackforest Shelf Clock Progress

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Blackforest Movement near anchor

If you are following this blog this is the same clock as the previous post. Since the movement was very dirty, I cleaned it up (ultrasonic cleaner) when all apart and reassembled and oiled it. It is a one-train movement, so not many gear wheels and pretty easy to work on. You can see by the size of the clock, a photo of which is in the last post, that the movement is quite small.

I thought with a cleanup and oiling it would be simple to get it going again but no such luck. I know that there is power getting to the escape wheel because when I disconnect the anchor it spins like a buzz saw. When I reconnect the anchor it runs for about 15 seconds and stops. I would like some ideas to get this clock running but in the meantime I have attached some photos. My question, it there anything missing here? This clock doesn’t have a suspension spring or a crutch which I find unusual. And what is that screw thing for? Comments and suggestions would be appreciated.

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Anchor and top of pendulum

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Unknown screw adjustment

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The movement itself

Sessions Westminster A Mantel Clock

This article describes my latest mantel clock find, an American tambour style time, strike and chime clock that has some very interesting features.

Weak clicks, a common Sessions problem

It is a Sessions Westminster A mantel clock made in Forestville Conn. The first year of production for this model was 1927. Between 1903 and 1933 Sessions produced 52 models of mechanical clocks, ranging from Advertisers, large and small clocks with logos of various businesses, to wall, or regulator clocks, and shelf or mantel clocks, designed for the home. Some of the Sessions clocks from this period are prized by collectors.

RS Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931 (12)
Inlay adds to the charm of this clock

This case is 21 inches long and 10 inches high, has a mahogany finish with a faux wood inlay and raised metal gold-coloured numerals. It has an 8-day Westminster quarter-hour chime movement. The strike and the chime are on the same train. This clock has 2 gear trains to perform what is usually done with three gear trains in most clocks. Rare but not unique.

Although made in the 1920’s, Sessions had to compete with every other American clock company as chime clocks became very popular. Movements with 3 gear trains were the norm; three arbours, one for each train. Sessions chose a radical approach, and designed the two-train Westminster movement with only two mainsprings. Economies of scale meant that the dial fit other time & strike mantel clocks as well.

RS Sessions Westminster chime circa 1931 (11)
Drum and pin chime arrangement

This particular clock was sold in 1931, an inscription testifies to the date. The sale price in 1931 was $29.95,  a working man’s salary in the 1930’s. This is a $20 flea market find.

The time side runs well but the chime and strike side is not working. It has either a broken or a disconnected mainspring or perhaps some other major issue is lurking within.

This clock has a reputation for being difficult to work on. Some horologists will not touch it because of its quirkiness and the amount of time it takes to repair but I plan to give it a shot, not now  but once I gain moire experience in clock repair.

Dugena Mantel Clock Dis-assembly, Cleaning and Adjustment

Dugena was a German retail clock company. The name Dugena still exists today but whether or not it is related to the Dugena company of the 1950s is anyone’s guess. This particular clock has a Hermle floating balance movement which is both reliable and dependable. Dugena, like many other clock companies at the time contracted out to a number of movement manufacturers during it’s heyday.

I bought this Dugena mantle clock for very little money. The previous owner assured me that it was an old clock and not to expect it to be perfect. He was right, it is not perfect. It is a 2-train time and strike Bim-Bam clock. When I got it it had no trouble starting. However, I could not get the clock to keep time (ran too slow) despite numerous adjustments to the balance wheel which was a little frustrating. I had to remind myself that the previous owner did say it was not perfect. There is also something amiss about the strike train side because it  strikes incessantly till the clock winds down. No doubt something is either worn, broken or misaligned. Misaligned rack and snail, I hope!

 

Dugena clock movement showing floating balance escapement
Dugena clock movement showing floating balance escapement
Hermle movement showing balance wheel escarpment

My first attempt at cleaning the clock involved taking out the movement and placing it in an ammonia bath with some Murphy’s soap, the so-called Dunk and Swish method. The net result is that once I dried it completely it functioned no differently than before, maybe even worse.

As mentioned it has a balance wheel escarpment and I am assuming the spring might be weak because the wheel does not spin more than 180 degrees. Either that or the darn thing is losing power from somewhere else. The bottom line is that it needed to be taken apart and cleaned properly. That is exactly what I am in the process of doing. My first assessment is that the clock is pretty tight and the pivots, pivots holes, pinions and arbors are in pretty good shape with a minimum of oily gunk. The springs are in barrels and at this point I am not going to service them. Reason, I don’t have the tools.

I have taken clock movements apart in the recent past and I have a pretty good understanding of what goes where and why as well as a basic set of tools to get me through. I can clean and oil but I don’t (can’t) do bushings. My hope is that once I have finished cleaning, assembling and oiling the clock it should work correctly though if it doesn’t it is no great loss. Good learning though.

So, I have a couple of choices. I can get the clock to function or I can investigate a replacement movement if it doesn’t.  The replacement movement (last photo) is $128CDN for a pendulum movement or $198CDN for a balance wheel escarpment. I will go for the pendulum movement since it is easier to work on, has fewer parts and makes that distinctive tick-tock sound. There is a third option, throw the movement into the parts pile and junk the case. We’ll see.

Balance wheel escarpment

 

possible replacement movement from Hermle

If I bought a new movement the clock would likely run trouble-free for years. Is it worth it? I am not sure. The case is in pretty good condition for it’s age and it would not take much to make a few cosmetic improvements to make it presentable but obviously not brand new looking.

Leave a comment for me if you have any advice.

All photos (except the last on) were taken with an Olympus E330, Zuiko 50mm F2 macro lens

 

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