2018 was a successful year for my horological hobby in many ways. I met interesting people with fascinating stories, discovered new antique clock sources and had fun along the way. The best clock moments, in no specific order, during 2018 were:
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton
Finding an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton double-spring time-only wall clock was a big plus. This clock has been on my wish list for 5 years and I finally found one in excellent condition and the price was within my budget. This brings to seven Arthur Pequegnat clocks in my collection.
Seth Thomas #2 Regulator
The Seth Thomas #2 has been on my wish list for 5 years as well. This single weight-driven, time-only wall clock is from the 1920s. It is Mahogany veneered and like the Moncton is in very good condition. It is now hung in my front entry way.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
August Schatz & Sohne W3 shelf clock
In August 2017 I asked for help finding a case for my Schatz movement after locating it in an antique store. Little did I realize that I would eventually have that case.
Rear plate
This is the result when you ask a 90 year old cabinet maker and joiner from Virginia to make a case for an August Schatz & Sohne W3 triple chime movement.
August Schatz & Sohne W3 mantel clock
A special thanks to all those who commented on articles and those who send me letters concerning their particular clock problem
Selling clocks
I sold two clocks this year not because I did not like or appreciate them but I must pare down my collection to allow space for new acquisitions. The Juba Schatz “bim-bam” time and strike mantel clock was one
Juba Schatz time and strike clock
and the other, a Mauthe Westminster mantel clock.
Acquiring new tools
Aside from small hand tools acquired this year, the most significant purchase was an L&R Ultrasonic cleaner which does a terrific job of cleaning clock parts.
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
Setting up and organizing my workshop
I managed to create space in my basement for an area to work on clock cases and other related woodworking tasks. A new drill press is on the far bench to the left.
New work area in basement
Cuckoo clock
My first cuckoo clock was a gift from my cousin this past year. It is in good working order but it will need a new set of bellows which will be one of my summer projects in 2019.
Dave’s cuckoo clock
Antiquevintageclock.com
I am pleased that my blog has also been very successful with over 93,000+ total views. I would like to thank all those who commented on articles and those who sent me letters concerning their particular clock issue.
I look forward to this new year and I am sure that 2019 will be an equally successful year as I further my horological pursuits.
The bad news is time flies. The good news is you’re the pilot
Ringing in the New Year is for reminiscing, reliving, looking back and looking forward.
As champagne corks pop, glasses are raised and fireworks explode into the sky, it is important to recognize the special symbolism this holiday brings with it. Amid promises of new beginnings and fresh starts comes a time of reflection and resolutions that more often than not tend to be short lived. Whether your goals consist of losing a little weight or improving your relationships with loved ones, it can make all the difference when hopes are transformed into words and actions.
Happy New Year clock lovers everywhere. Where will your horological journey take you in the months to come? Will it be finding that special clock, finally servicing mom’s favorite mantel clock or buying that unique clock repair tool?
Perhaps you have made resolutions that are not necessarily clock related and if so, avoid disappointment by making them specific, measurable, attainable, realistic and time-framed.
We all get the exact same 365 days. The only difference is what we do with them. There is an old Rolling Stones song called Time Waits For No-one and these two lines come to mind for this time of the year.
The dreams of the night time will vanish by dawn And time waits for no one, and it won’t wait for me
My wife loves those little craft shops that seem to pop up everywhere. While shopping for Christmas presents in Truro, Nova Scotia, she spotted an attractive Seth Thomas balloon alarm clock. It is not working, said the vendor but my wife knew that her clock loving husband would likely get it running in no time.
Art Nouveau styled Seth Thomas alarm clock
These clocks are not uncommon on online auction sites
Made around 1900, the clock features a metal case with openwork, scrolling details, a rectangular base with a central shell design. The dial is marked “Seth Thomas” to the center and “Manufactured in the United States of America” underneath the six. An alarm bell is housed in the base and yes, it is very loud. The clock measures 7.25″ W x 9.0″ H x 3.5″ D.
Made in US America
Not rare but interesting
These clocks are not uncommon on online auction sites. Though some describe the alarm clock case as cast iron or copper, it appears to be either plated cast brass or more likely spelter. Some would describe the style as Art Nouveau. Art Nouveau is an international style of art, especially the more decorative arts that were most popular between 1890 and 1910.
The dial features Roman numerals, a working inset sixty-second dial at the twelve, a twelve-hour alarm dial at the six and a cast metal bezel with a beaded pattern. The clock features two winding keys on the reverse (though one key is missing as well as one set screw) and is marked “Made in U.S. America.”
Back cover, with keys taken off
I took off the back cover, put it aside and cleaned it. The 30-hour movement with alarm was quite dirty, as expected. A thorough dismantling and cleaning is in order but for now, let’s see if it works.
Back cover removed
Let’s see if it runs
Using Keystone clock oil I applied oil to the pivots and those I could reach in the front without taking the movement out of the case. New oil introduced to old oil will eventually mix and cause an abrasive sludge that will hasten wear but I wanted to determine if the movement was capable of running. After the oiling, I gave the escapement a gentle push and the clock came to life and continued to run its 1-day cycle. The alarm feature works but I am missing the windup key and the time key does not fit properly. I am also missing the hands’ adjustment set key, so, a pair of pliers was used to set the time.
The clock looks great
I cleaned the case with a mild soap avoiding hard rubbing for fear of taking off the plating. The clock looks great and has a pleasant patina.
My wife paid $15 for the clock. Online auction and for-sale sites reveal realized prices all over the map, from $30 to $410. I am pleased that it is a working clock at a very reasonable price and a nice addition it to my modest alarm clock collection.
My kids stress every year over what to get dad for Christmas. They know that I am an avid antique clock collector and they know that I love to restore and repair antique and vintage clocks. They always ask, “Is there anything he needs”. I have all the tools I need and certainly all the clocks that I want. The fact that they think about it pleases me.
However, it is the little things I always appreciate in my Christmas stocking. Kids, if you want to give me something put a new pair of cloth gloves, a box of toothpicks, cotton swabs, or a paintbrush in my Christmas stocking so I know that you are thinking of me.
Sure, I would love to have that elusive Martin Cheney wall clock or the pride of the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company, the Regulator #1 but even if they find that special clock for me it would spoil my personal journey to find that special clock.
Christmas is a time of joy, not of giving, unless the giving is in the form of love and appreciation for friends, family and colleagues.
So, if you are looking for that special gift for the clock lover in your family remember the simple things.
While browsing through an antique shop in Bloomfield, Ontario my wife spotted an antique glass cased brass time and strike American made Crystal Regulator with open Brocot escapement made by Ansonia. In the 1905 Ansonia Crystal Regulator catalogue it is listed as the Prism at a price of $29.00 which would have been a hefty sum at that time.
Ansonia four glass crystal regulator, after a cleaning
My wife has a good eye for these things. In the meantime, I was looking over the wide selection of Arthur Pequegnat wall and mantel clocks.
What is an American Crystal Regulator?
American crystal regulars were almost exact copies of French regulators complete with stylistic gong block, visible Brocot escapements, round movement plates and beveled glass panels. The French clocks were highly regarded at the time, often had mercury pendulums and were made by Japy, Marti, Vincenti and Mougin. American makers included Ansonia and Seth Thomas. American clocks often had faux pendulums which were commonly slugs of nickel. Though lesser in quality and price they are, nevertheless, quite collectable.
This is a faux pendulum; mercury flows, the metal in this pendulum does not flow
Clock condition
The four glass panels are in very good condition. There is a small corner chip on one glass panel that I noticed several days after purchasing the clock but it is not visible from the front of the clock.
Side view of the movement
The glass was likely damaged when the clock was serviced. Otherwise, the overall condition of the clock is good. The brass was tarnished as expected given its age (1910 or so) and with the help of Brasso cleaner it polished up nicely.
Dial showing Brocot escapement
However, a gentle push of the pendulum produces a few ticks and then it stops. I am not familiar with Brocot escapements and before I do anything I will research the movement before I disassemble it and give it a thorough cleaning.
I will detail the servicing of this movement in a future post.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face or a clock you would like me to profile and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
CT asks, “Could you tell me if the attached is worth anything? Thank you.”
My reply, “It certainly looks old but it may not be. There are a number of questions that must be asked to determine its value. You may or may not have the answers.
Does it have provenance; is there a particular history that might give it a value such as previous owners, a prominent location?
Does it have unique features that make it rare or desirable?
Who is the maker of the clock, where was it made (country of origin) and when was it made?
What condition is it in and is the clock complete; are all parts original?
Does the clock have a label, trademark, or name? Clocks that have an identifying label or trademark are more desirable than those that do not.
Unfortunately, in this unpredictable market, it is almost impossible to determine the value of a clock. What you think your clock may be worth may not align with what the experts say and what others are willing to pay.
Without knowing anything about the clock, one such as this that is in fair condition, of unknown origin, parts or pieces missing is not worth much more than something in the $200-300 range.”
The eagle on the clock face suggests that it is likely a low cost, mass-produced American clock.
Regular viewers may recall this post in September 2018. Added are new photos and additional information on this project.
I wrote about this Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock barn find in a previous article. It has been a test bed for case restoration techniques I have never attempted before.
A barn find clock in pieces (next photo) is a challenge for anyone. It was missing some parts and as I began to take an inventory of what I required to get this clock running after so many years I discovered that I had enough to make something of it and whatever was missing could be easily sourced. Those key parts? Not so simple, as I will explain later
Ansonia Extra short drop wall clock, a barn findAnsonia Extra Drop barn find, drop access door is missing
There are a number of variations of the Ansonia Drop Extras and the one most sought after is the time, strike and calendar version. This is a time-only version and would fetch a price in the lower end of the range.
This clock was manufactured by the Ansonia Brass & Copper Co. around 1880. It is 26 inches high, 16 inches wide and 5 inches deep. It has a 16 inch round wood door bezel on a large 2-inch hinge. The drop section has serpentine sides and teardrop finials. The bottom access drop door which I was missing, opens downwards. Other Drop Extra variations have access doors open to the side. Mine will also open downwards.
Drop door from another clock in open position
I assembled all the pieces I had from the barn find. Missing were small trim pieces, the pendulum bob and leader, the clock hands and verge. But two key pieces are required, the brass dial bezel and the drop door. During the course of making inquiries concerning the missing pieces, the movement was serviced and installed in the case. It is running reliably and maintains a full 8-day cycle.
Regarding the drop door. This is obviously not a piece I could buy from a clock supplier. The first step was to take the measurements and construct the frame. I cut pine wood from an old Ogee donor clock. I began with a door frame. The frame is about 7 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches high leaving a snug fit between the top and side opening.
Using my table saw I cut the appropriate lengths, assembled the frame and then glued the ends together (next photo). I put a weight on the frame for 24 hours to prevent warping. Pine moulding sits atop the frame to accommodate the rosewood veneer.
Pine frame is 7 X 4 1/2 inchesTest fitting the door frame
I cut a single 1 inch piece of doweling with a 3/8 inch crown. The result? Too wide and the crown was too high. The wide trim and high crown meant that the hinges would not function properly and it looked odd.
First attempt; the trim is too wide and too high
I wanted to duplicate the one in the next photo.
Ansonia door from a similar clock in closed position and also showing a narrow molding
I discarded the moulding, kept the sub-frame and made smaller pieces which looked quite a lot better.
I cut a section from 1 1/4 inch doweling resulting in a 3/16 inch crown. My stock Rosewood veneer is only 6 inches wide which I then cut into strips. I veneered the entire 26 inch piece using medium strength pearl hide glue. I used foam blocks to press the veneer into the moulding clamping at each end of the section.
First part of a 26 inch strip after gluing and clampingVeneering is just about completeClamping in stages using sponge blocks; the wood strip allows equal pressure along each section
The veneer was applied in stages since I had only two clamps that were appropriate for this project. After applying the first strip I learned that wetting the veneer on the top side allowed it to take the shape of the moulding. I then cut the strip into 4 mitered sections, glued the sections onto the frame and applied 2 coats of Brazilian Rosewood stain. At first I was reluctant to stain the veneer but using a test piece and applying two coats of shellac I discovered that the shade was too light in comparison to the veneer on the clock case.
Test fitting the 4 sections, prior to gluingGlued (Hide Glue); weight placed on the moulding and frameFinial and knob
Two 1/2 inch hinges were used plus a knob salvaged from an Ogee donor clock.
Knob and 3/4 inch hingesKnob from Ogee clockGlass added and door in placeThe 3/4 inch hinges allow the door to drop downAnsonia Drop Extra wall clock
It is certainly not perfect and there is much I could improve upon in the next project. I have a door knob that will fit with some modifications (see above) but that is a small project for another day. A glass decal would also be a nice addition.
Beyond this I can go no further with this project. The brass bezel still alludes me though I might have a lead on one from an antique shop owner in Connecticut (USA).
This Ansonia Extra Drop is an attractive but incomplete clock with a interesting story and a test-bed for case restoration.
During my travels through Ontario, I acquired a Seth Thomas Regulator #2, one of my newest additions. I discovered this clock in Bloomfield, a quaint village just minutes from Picton, a major hub in Prince Edward County renowned for its many wineries.
I first spotted the clock during a summer visit to the local antique shop and deliberated over the purchase for quite some time before finally deciding to take the plunge in the fall. These clocks are a rare find, and with the price being right and the clock in excellent condition, it felt like an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.
Perhaps best known as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was a fixture in many railway stations across the country during the last century—a testament to its accuracy and dependability. Robust, precise, well-engineered, and reliable, this timepiece was manufactured by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, an impressive production run of 90 years. Few clocks can boast such longevity. It is an iconic American clock, and every serious clock collector aspires to own one.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2, circa 1922
A classic style, the #2 changed very little over the years. However, certain design characteristics help date the clock. The following identification guide describes dial and case characteristics that will aid in identifying the approximate year the clock was made.
The most distinctive visible characteristic is the design of the base.
The base of the clock
Aside from the distinctive base, all but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear with “T” hands.
The chart also lists the limited run reissue in 1976. Most Seth Thomas aficionados would agree that while the reissue is a handsome and well-made clock that is a testament to the original it is not in the same realm as an authentic Regulator #2 and the prices for these versions reflect accordingly. However, those who have the reissue seem to be pleased with their acquisition.
ccording to the chart, my clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and features a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numerals with spade hands, and the bow-tie connecting the wooden dial bezel to the drop is a single piece (earlier versions featured a three-piece bow-tie). The clock includes a second hand positioned 2 inches above the center cannon; however, it is not a true second hand, as it runs off the escapement and takes 80 beats to complete a “minute.”
Measuring 36 ½ inches in height, the clock is veneered in mahogany. The movement is stamped with “77A” in the bottom right corner, with the letter “K” underneath, but it bears no other markings. While some versions of the 77 movement have lantern pinions, this one is equipped with cut pinions.
Are there issues with this clock? Certainly, it is over 90 years old! There is minor loss on the dial, no label, a finish that has lost its luster and paint splatter on the top of the case not visible from the front. Is it really so hard removing a clock when painting a room!
Is it Perfect?
I brought this clock from Ontario to Nova Scotia by car. Removing the pendulum for transport is not a particularly simple process but if you are familiar with the pendulum arrangement on a typical weight-driven Vienna Regulator this one is no different. Like Viennas, the pendulum is hung behind the movement.
Both the weight and the pendulum must be removed for transport. There is many a story of broken glass when weight and pendulum are free to move around inside the case. To remove the weight, simply unhook it from the cable wheel.
There are minor issues with the dial-face
To remove the pendulum the movement must be taken out. First, the hands are taken off. In this version, the minute hand is held in place with a nut. Older ones have a pin. There are 8 small screws that hold the dial in place. Once the dial is removed, two larger screws on the wooden second-hand rail are removed. Four cylindrical column posts hold the movement in place. Unscrew these beginning with the bottom two and lift the movement out. Once the movement is out, the pendulum can be unhooked from its suspension spring. The entire process takes less than five minutes.
The trapezoid 77A movement with maintaining power in this clock looks clean. There is evidence of having been worked on in the past as there are 4 punch marks around the winding arbour to close the hole; a common practice in the past to close a pivot hole. Otherwise, the movement looks very good.
Trapezoid 77A movement
Getting the clock to run reliably was a challenge and it took a week or so to sort it out. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop.
Following a process of elimination, I removed the movement, inspected it for wear, found very little, oiled the pivots, and returned the movement to the case. I installed the dial, then the hands. The clock would run for a few minutes and stop. I removed the hands and dial; left the dial off but reinstalled the hands. Still, it would run only a few minutes. I then took the dial and hands off. I ran the movement for four days to eliminate any underlying issues and to convince myself that the problem lay in the positioning of the hands. The problem was definitely with the positioning of the hands.
On day five, I put the dial back on, then the second hand ensuring that there was sufficient clearance between the second hand and the face. Next, I put the hour hand on the pipe and pressed it in far enough to clear both the second hand and the minute hand. I attached the minute hand, inspected it for sufficient clearance, and screwed it in place. I started the clock.
Success at last! Regulating the clock is fairly simple and is achieved by turning the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. This clock must be level and in beat to function properly.
I used Murphy’s Soap to clean the grease and grime from the case. I chose to leave the paint splatter intact, as it adds a bit of character to the clock. Additionally, I polished the brass weight and pendulum bob to restore their shine.
The view from our front door
This clock boasts a striking appearance and a rich, illustrious history, making it a perfect addition to the front entrance of our home. Unfortunately, its journey over the past 90+ years remains a mystery.
The question of whether it qualifies as a “true regulator” is a debate for another time.
Today marks 101st anniversary of the Halifax Explosion.
When I first saw the Junghans clock it was in pieces
On Dec. 6, 1917, the Belgian relief ship Imo rammed into the French munitions vessel Mont-Blanc, which was carrying TNT through the narrowest part of Halifax harbour. A fire on board the French ship ignited her cargo, causing a devastating explosion. The Mont-Blancexploded at 9:04:35 a.m., sending out a shock wave in all directions, followed by a tsunami that washed violently over the Halifax and Dartmouth shores. More than 2.5 square km of Richmond were totally levelled, either by the blast, the tsunami, or the structure fires caused when buildings collapsed inward on lanterns, stoves and furnaces.
Two thousand people were killed in the Halifax Explosion and another 9,000 were injured. The explosion is the worst man-made disaster in Canadian history.
On that same day a Junghans Crispi wall clock fell off a wall in a house on Princess court, North End Halifax.
Restored Junghans Crispi wall clock
Last year (2017) I bought a box of parts from a family that kept the clock for over 100 years and over the course of two months I restored the clock to it former glory. I wrote several articles on the restoration beginning with this one.
This is Part III, the last of a three-part series on restoring this beautiful German FMS Mauthe wall clock. Part I can be found here. Part two can be found here.
This antique Victorian style German time and strike FMS Mauthe wall clock was purchased from a family living in Truro Nova Scotia that once resided in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago.
I have covered movement servicing in a previous article and now for case restoration. The case is part walnut veneer with softwood turns, frame and backboard, likely pine or poplar. All original wood surfaces were stained or lacquered to resemble walnut.
Time and a harsh environment have not been kind to this once majestic clock as the finish was in very poor condition. Stripping the case was my only option.
Mauthe crown, missing right finial
Base of clock
Stripping and staining were quite straightforward but time-consuming. After rubbing with steel wool I applied stain called Special Walnut, a light stain by Minwax which had the effect of enriching the grains even further. After the case was sanded I then applied 5 coats of shellac making the shellac in the traditional way with flakes and alcohol. I found a 1 lb cut ideal for this project.
The finish was probably the worst aligorating I have seen
Turned door column
Refinished corner section
As mentioned in a previous post, the movement was cleaned and two bushings were installed on the time side and one on the strike side. It was mounted in its case and has completed a successful testing period.
Although I was pleased with my work on the top door crosspiece, I could not find one clock online with a crosspiece similar to it from that period. Back to the drawing board!
Ogee style crosspiece on top of the front access door, stained to match case (later removed)
An Internet search for clocks of that style and period revealed that every clock had an arched top trim piece much like this Junghans Crispi wall clock from 1899.
Walnut veneer is preferred but I had to make do with oak plywood. Oak has a more pronounced grain but the end result looks good. Using a router I cut 3/16 inch oak veneered plywood into 2 curved pieces. Making a turn on a router is not as easy as it looks and it took me several attempts to get it right. After the 2 sections were cut (left, right and joining in the middle) I applied a darker walnut stain to match the case. I then covered the pieces with several coats of shellac then glued the two sections onto the top door frame.
The arched trim piece is an improvement and more in keeping with the design of the clock at that time.
Arched trim
The top finial was purchased from a supplier and stained to match the two lower finials.
The top final is new and stained to match the other two
Unfortunately, there is not much I can do about the darkened celluloid dial. Celluloid dials are almost impossible to clean. Replacement is an option but it would look out of place.
Celluloid dial with brass centre piece
The clock is now finished. The last step is regulating the movement.
The following is a breakdown of the costs & work completed:
Costs:
Purchase price $100
Amber shellac flakes, alcohol, brushes, containers – $75 (this cost will be spread over future projects)
Razor scraper for glass cleaning, $5
Finial $3
Furniture stripper $10
Suspension spring $4
3/16 inch plywood $12.95
Corner doweling for the crown (left side) $6
TOTAL: $212.95
Traditional shellac is the only way to go
Work done:
Case stripped down to bare wood with furniture stripper, all surfaces except side frames
Sanded case
1 coat of Minwax “Special” walnut stain which is lighter than dark walnut
5 coats of shellac, 1 lb cut, rubbed with fine steel wool between coats.
Crosspiece for top of door fashioned from kitchen cabinet moulding, stained to match case, shellacked (later removed)
Arched top door insert made from 3/16″ oak veneered plywood, stained and shellacked
Adler gong and rails, cleaned & repainted
Beat plate cleaned and made flat, as flat as possible without damaging it!
Centre pan of dial face cleaned
Hands painted with flat black acrylic metal paint (2 coats)
New top centre “curtain rod” finial from Lee Valley, stained and shellacked, hole drilled for support post
Crown support rail constructed of softwood
Movement disassembled & cleaned in ultrasonic. Unable to remove the spring barrels. 3 bushings installed
Glass removed, scraped of shellac residue, cleaned and reinstalled. The residue told me that the case had been shellacked at least once in the past
The finished product
A satisfying project that resulted in the transformation of a clock that had been ignored for too long. its underlying beauty can finally be appreciated. Would I do things differently in the future? For the most part, no but there are some minor things I would approach in a different way. Case restoration is a learning process and each new project presents an interesting and unique challenge.
The clock has now been returned to its former glory and will now occupy a prominent location in my home.
I discovered this Arthur Pequegnat Moncton in an antique store in Bloomfield, Ontario. I had my eye on it during a visit to the antique shop this past summer (2018), thought about it before taking the plunge later in the fall to buy it. These clocks do not come up very often and the price was right.
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 until the company closed its doors in 1941. The clock firm was originally founded in 1903 by Saas & Ford but was purchased by Arthur Pequegnat the following year.
Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Arthur Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada. However, the use of city names began to decline in the late 1920s when models such as the Eclipse and Swan were introduced. Arthur Pequegnat also showed his patriotism to the Royal family and to Canada and therefore named a number of models, the Monarch, the King Edward, the Maple Leaf, the Dominion, the Canadian Time and so on.
Pendulum, beat plate & centre cut rounded bottom
Pequegnat made mantel, parlour clocks, as well as Mission, kitchen, gingerbread, tambour, wall, and floor models (hall clocks). In most households of the period, a clock was a decorative status symbol, not just a timepiece, and was displayed in a prominent place in the home—usually the parlour.
Prices increased over the period the Pequegnats were in business but ranged from four dollars for the Midget to seven dollars for the simple round Toronto model, to $112 for the Alberta floor model in mahogany. The wide variety of designs and relatively low prices appealed to many Canadians. Today, the appeal of these timepieces remains as Pequegnat clocks are sought after by Canadian collectors.
This, the Moncton, is the seventh Arthur Pequegnat clock in my collection. This clock is named after a city in the province of New Brunswick (Canada). It is only fitting that Pequegnat supplied clocks to the railway as Moncton was once a rail hub for the Canadian National Railway.
This clock is in good condition overall. It has a 12 inch Arabic dial with simple, bold numbers. The pierced spade hands are attractive and are a feature on many Pequegnat wall clocks. It has a fumed quarter-sawn oak case, is 35 inches high with a hinged 16 inch oak bezel door that swings to the right to reveal the dial. The drop door is 14 ½ inches high by 10 ¾ inches wide and also swings to the right. The clock is 5 inches deep with wall stabilizers on either side of the case. The pendulum bob is brass over iron with an oak pendulum rod. The dial glass appears to be original and has the “waviness” you would expect with glass that is over 80 years old.
View of lower case
Although the lower glass has the same waviness it appears to have been changed out early in the clocks life as the retaining rails look to be replacements. Unfortunately, it is missing the label. Other minor issues are a small scratch on the dial face that is visible when the light is right and a screw hole on the back panel just below the beat plate to secure the clock to the wall. Evidently the stabilizers were not used.
This clock was made after 1916. Those made prior to that date were inscribed “Berlin” (Ontario) on the dial. On 1 January 1917, anti-German sentiments in Canada during the First World War spurred residents of Berlin, Ontario to change the city’s name to Kitchener. This is the only definitive way of dating a Pequegnat clock so, this clock would be between 80 and 100 years old. The Moncton wall clock was manufactured almost as long as the company was in existence.
The Moncton is a 15-day time-only clock with two winding arbours on the dial face. This is achieved by means of two mainsprings both of which are wound at the beginning of the running cycle releasing their power together. Two other wall clocks, the Regina and the King Edward (variant) were also available with a 15-day double spring movement. However, unlike most spring driven clocks that have recoil escapements this movement has a Graham deadbeat escapement which contributes to its accuracy. The seconds hand is not a true second hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. As a testament to its accuracy and dependability many of these clocks were ordered as train station clocks across Canada.
Two winding arbours for double spring time-only movement
The “Moncton” came in two basic styles. One was made for Canadian National Railways and was five centimeters (two inches) shorter than the regular model. Some such as this one, were fitted with a seconds hand on a separate dial above the main hands. This feature is also found on the Regulator I which was Pequegnat’s most accurate model. The 1st Issue was 33 1/4 inches high by 15 1/2 inches wide with the triangular bottom. The 2nd issue of the clock has a height of 33 1/4 inches and a width of 16 inches with a centre cut rounded bottom. The 2nd issue clock is also found with cases that measure 35 inches in height such as this one.
Moncton first issue, Roman Numeral dial
The “Moncton” was first featured in the 1913 catalogue and the again in the 1918, 1920 to 1925 Wall Clock catalogues and Pequegnat’s final catalogue put out in 1928.
The Moncton closely resembles the Seth Thomas #2 in size and shape down to the seconds hand, 80BPM and beat plate but unlike the #2, the Moncton is spring driven. The Moncton was an alternative to the #2 which was a well made American regulator but costlier and with a shorter running cycle.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
The seller tells me that the clock came from the north of Toronto (Ontario) and apologized for not knowing more about its history. He has had it for about 1 ½ years.
I removed the dial to inspect the movement. As expected it is large and heavy with solid plates mounted to an iron frame. It is not difficult to see that it was designed to be rugged and dependable. I did not check the back plate but judging from what I see on the front plate there appears to be little wear. The first wheel on the right side is the only one that has a newer bushing. Given its condition it was well cared for and did not have a hard life.
Large and heavy time-only movement
This clock has been on my wish list for some time.”Monctons” are up for sale from time to time, but they are getting harder to find. I have seen examples come and go but this one is in great shape and the time was right to add it to my collection.
This is the fourth and final article on this curious and somewhat homely Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock. I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it.
It is a clock that had been passed down within the family and as you can see it went through a significant change. I thought about next steps and considered advice from friends and family. It came down to three options:
1) Do absolutely nothing, preserve it as-is and store it in a closet,
2) Discard the case out, buy a donor case and install the parts I have in the new case or,
3) Preserve it, that is, not change it in a significant way but make some cosmetic changes and have it run reliably.
The drop door, movement and other things
The next photo shows the clock after the glass bezel was installed, the dial face was refreshed and the case was given a coat of dark walnut stain (the number “IIII” has a reflection from an overhead light). You can still see the plywood and the nail heads but my objective was to clean it up, refresh and preserve the character of the homemade case.
Dark walnut stain, dial re-freshened and glass installed
The access drop door:
The clock requires an access door on the short drop, the opening is unsightly. As you can see in the photo above the cut-out is rough and a door will effectively hide it. Making a n access door is a simple project and will enhance the appearance of the case.
I have an old Ogee clock case that I use for any wooden parts required for clock projects. I cut a 1/4 inch piece and fashioned the door panel using a paper template for the dimensions. There are two panels which make up an inner and outer door sections.
First, I used paper as a template to draw the new door.
The template is a sheet of paper
I cut the inner and outer door panels using a table saw and sanded all sides.
Inner and outer door, cut and sanded
Next, using masking tape I taped one piece to the other. I positioned my hand in the drop area so the inner piece would be aligned correctly with the door panel.
Glue applied to both panels
Once the panels were aligned I removed the masking tape, gave the panels a final sanding, then applied yellow carpenters glue to both panels. Hide glue would have been used originally but the goal for this little project is to hide the crude cutout, not to replicate woodworking methods at the time it was constructed. Yellow glue is appropriate for this project; it is stronger and has a high bonding strength.
The two panels are clamped together.
Next, a dark walnut stain was applied to the door panel to match the case. Installing the door to the case required two small brass hinges mounted on the right side. For the pull handle, I decided to go with a wood knob stained in dark walnut.
Drop installed and stained to match case
Final steps:
A small piece of wood was affixed to the inside of the dial cutout to ensure that the hinge screws had something to bite into. Following this, the glass bezel door was attached.
Block on left is glued in place to screw the door hinge to the case
Next are dummy slotted wood screws for the bezel holes, basically to conceal the holes.
The drilled holes in the bezel are unsightly
The door project is almost complete, door pull missing in photo
Having sorted out the striking issue the movement is now installed in the case.
My thoughts on this project:
Prior to the first pictures I saw, I had visions of a clock that needed a little work to restore it. When I discovered that the case was homemade it was a disappointment. After giving it much thought it seemed that the most appropriate course of action was to preserve what I had.
Overall the cost of bringing this clock back to running condition and refreshing the case was minimal. Was it worth it? Yes! It is now complete, it shows better and it will tell an interesting story for years to come.
It may not be the prettiest clock on the wall but it will be a great conversation piece and after 60 years it is functional and it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.
This is Part III of a 4-part series. I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it.
I have devoted two previous articles to this curious and somewhat homely Waterbury time and strike schoolhouse clock. It is a clock that had been passed down within the family and it has had a hard life. Along the way it has undergone some changes, not all of them pretty. I thought about the next steps for this clock and considered advice from friends and family. It came down to three options:
1) Do absolutely nothing, preserve it as-is and store it in a closet,
2) Discard the case out, buy a donor case and install the parts I have in the new case or,
3) Preserve it, that is, not change it in a significant way but make some cosmetic changes and have it run reliably.
Option three it is.
At one time the original case was painted yellow with red trim. which is probably why it was discarded
Restoration or preservation? The restoration process consists of performing clock repair procedures on the movement as well as cosmetically restoring the dial, the case and its wooden and metal components using period procedures. Proper restorations do not change the clock’s functionality, appearance or value. Restoration of a valued clock is a serious business as many owners are emotionally attached to a clock for various reasons.
In this situation the movement can be restored and the other hardware cleaned up, however, the case is not original and was likely made 40, or 50 years ago which is why this project is part restoration and part preservation. Servicing the movement, putting the clock in running condition and making some cosmetic changes is my objective for this project.
This is what the clock looked like when I first received it.
First photo of the clock sent by my cousin
It has a homemade plywood case though it has all the essential mechanical parts. There is no dial glass. The brass bezel would have been hinged and perhaps the hinge broke and was discarded. The bezel was then screwed into the plywood.
The first step is the movement. The parts arrived from Perrin and I went to work on the movement. The movement is a Waterbury time and strike with a patent date of Sept 22, 1874. It was dirty as expected and there was some rust but it cleaned up nicely.
Before
And after servicing
The movement required 5 bushings at T2F, T2R, S2F, S2R, and S3F. As always it takes me more than one try to get the strike side functioning correctly. During testing I noticed that the strike side was sluggish. A tight bushing, bent pivot, insufficient end shake? I will know when I take it apart and take a second look.
Walnut stain and clear coat, hiding the plywood and nail heads, for the most part
I gave the case a thorough cleaning, then a sanding and applied one coat of dark walnut stain followed by three coats of shellac. A dark Walnut stain is the optimal way to hide the plywood and the nail heads. It does not hide the plywood completely but the intent for this project is to refresh the case rather than conceal imperfections.
At one time the original case was painted yellow with red trim, my grandfather’s idea of matching the clock to the paint and trim in his kitchen. The original case was likely in such poor condition that it was thrown away.
Next, the brass. It was painted red at one time so it took a little Brasso muscle to remove a combination of red paint and tarnish.
The brass was quite black
The result looks good
The dial was a challenge. Cleaning up the pit marks and faded numbers was my key objective. The nicks are chicken pecks while stored in a barn. Again, I was not interested in replacing it but touching up the nicks and rust spots while preserving the character of the dial. I have a supply of acrylic metal paint and it is a matter of mixing the right colours to determine the closet match.
The numbers were painted with flat black acrylic metal paint. The dial touch-ups would fool most people at a distance. I removed the rust from the hands and gave them two coats of flat black paint. The coil gong base was cleaned and also painted black.
Colour matching to hide paint loss
I ordered 10 1/4inch convex glass for the bezel plus a door hinge. The hinge was soldered into place as were brass tabs to hold the glass. Although the hinge is not affixed in this photo, this is what the door complete with dial glass looks like. There is not much I can do about the screw holes on the bezel; it remains part of its provenance. I may cut the heads of some brass slotted screws and solder them to the holes or simply leave the holes as-is.
Glass installed in bezel. Hinge installed but not fit to case in this shot
The clock requires an access door on the short drop, the opening is unsightly. As you can see in the photo above the cut-out is rough and a door will effectively hide it. I plan to make a solid door much like the one on this New Haven schoolhouse clock.
Drop door on a New Haven schoolhouse clock
It may not not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 60 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.
Next is new drop access door and final assembly which I will detail in the next and last post for this project, Part IV in 4 days.
What to do with this old clock was a difficult decision. What would you have done?
This is Part I of a three part series on restoring this beautiful 1900s Mauthe wall clock.
This Victorian style German wall clock was purchased locally from a family that once lived in the town of Parrsboro over 100 years ago. I found the clock on a local online for-sale site. It looked interesting but there was no price listed. I contacted the seller but they were asking considerably more than I was willing to pay. I explained the work that had to be done to the case, servicing of the movement and the fact that had it been in better condition they would easily receive more for the clock. I concluded the phone conversation with my top offer for the clock. They contacted me 4 days later and met my price.
Celluloid dial with brass centre pan
Open containers of Kerosene usually indicate that the owner thought the vapor would lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed
It is a (FMS) Mauthe time and strike wall clock with an Adler gong. I have been assured by the seller that the clock is original in every way and using the serial number and trademark I have determined that it was made between 1890 and 1910, consistent with information I was provided. The eagle emblem on the Adler gong suggests that it was made after 1898.
The seller said the movement was maintained regularly. For years a small thimble of liquid was placed inside the clock to keep it lubricated though she could not recall what the liquid was. I said that this was a wide practice in the old days of keeping a clock movement lubricated, a folk remedy that might work but was not ideal. In fact, from about 1850 to 1920 roads were dirt, dust was everywhere, and people depended on their clocks. They routinely took the dial off and swabbed the movement out with kerosene. They often used a little brush, made with a few chicken feathers. Kerosene (paraffin) was available everywhere and, if used often, was probably an excellent way to rinse away the dust and at the same time oil the movement for a while. A little cup, a thimble or a greasy medicine bottle of kerosene was placed inside the clock case to maintain lubrication. Open containers of Kerosene indicate that the owner thought the vapor would slowly evaporate and lubricate his clock. Closed containers indicate that he believed that a more controlled method of applying it would be needed.
What to do about the case
The finish is alligorated. Alligorated finishes are those that have encountered heat damage and are characterized by a finish (shellac or lacquer) that softens and pools into globules collecting dirt as it re-hardens.
For this project I essentially have three options,
Leave the case as-is,
Attempt to dissolve the alligorating using a solution (see ingredients below) or
Strip the case down to the bare wood.
I eliminated the first option. The case is very unsightly.
On to option number 2. I first attempted to dissolve the alligorated finish using a mixture of turpentine, kerosene and white vinegar combined with #0000 steel wool and while I was able to soften the globules the surrounding area lightened considerably. The net effect was a blotchy finish.
While taking the glass panels out I noticed a residue of shellac on the edges of the glass panels, so, I was dealing not only with the original finish but whatever had been applied over the original finish.
On to the last option, stripping the case
To remove the finish I used EZ Strip, a non-caustic and Eco-friendly product. Though it was non-caustic I wore gloves and ensured that my workspace had good air flow. EZ Strip is jelly-like and relatively easy to work with. After allowing it to sit on the finish for 20-30 minutes it is ready to strip. Despite the ease of application it required rubbing and scrubbing to take off the original finish to the bare wood.
This is the finish when I received the clock
This is the crown before stripping,
The crown
And after.
The finish is removed from the crown
As the case is missing a trim piece on the upper part of the door I fashioned a piece from some cabinet trim. A new slotted wooden stabilizer that secures the crown to the case was constructed of softwood. This you cannot see but it ensures that the crown stays securely on the top of the case. Also missing is a corner piece on the left side of the upper crown. Cove moulding works well. I purchased a finial from Lee Valley and it worked well for this project.
Removing the old finish had an immediate effect. The grain of the walnut veneer that had been hidden all these years was finally exposed.
Case is stripped, awaiting sanding, stain and final finish
For the final finish I will use shellac prepared in the traditional way. This is my first experience with shellac flakes and it is best to begin with a light consistency called a 1 lb cut. This is approximately a 1:8 ratio of shellac to alcohol. Therefore, 1 oz (28g) of shellac is dissolved in 8 fl oz (236ml) of denatured alcohol. I plan to use a French polish technique and apply the shellac and a broad artists brush to coat the turned sections.
Why is it frustrating asking for advice on social media?
I posted my case restoration project on a popular online clock site. I was seeking advice on working with shellac and while I received good advice the discussion quickly morphed into a debate about whether or not it is ethical to strip a case. There was significant division. Those on one side said they would do very little but clean it up or take the objectionable dirt off the finish while the other side posited that if presented with a situation where the finish was so poor that you could not appreciate the beauty of the veneers, a stripping is an acceptable alternative. Although both arguments have merit some of the posters were somewhat indignant and considered it a heresy to do anything at all to a clock case. There will always be both sides of the argument and I respect that.
See servicing of the movement and the final finishing of the case in Parts II and III, in the weeks to come.
In Flanders Fields, the poppies blow Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place; and in the sky The larks, still bravely singing, fly Scarce heard amid the guns below.
Today is a day of remembrance. Exactly 100 years after the end of World War, at the 11th hour on the 11th day of the 11th month on Sunday, Canadians will observe two minutes of silence — as they do every year on this date — to remember soldiers (and other military personnel) who lost their lives in this war and other conflicts.
People wear artificial poppies on their clothes in the weeks leading up to Remembrance Day. Red poppies symbolize the memory of those who died. On November 11, special church services are organized. These often include the playing of “The Last Post”, a reading of the fourth verse of the ‘Ode of Remembrance’ and two minutes silence at 11:00am. After the service, wreaths are laid at local war memorials.
National War Memorial, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
The official Canadian national ceremonies are held at the National War Memorial in Ottawa. A service is held and wreaths are laid by armed services representatives. In May 2000 the remains of a Canadian soldier who died in France in World War I, but was never been identified, were laid in the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the National War Memorial.
Peace Tower, Parliament Buildings, Ottawa
Take a moment to remember those who made the ultimate sacrifice to protect our freedoms.
Every horologist should have sturdy clock stand for testing clock movements.
If you have Gene’s movement test stand to test your clock movements you have chosen one of the best stands for clock repair. It is well-built, adjustable and simple to use. It is one of the best test stands I have ever used but it is not perfect.
While Gene’s test stand is excellent for mantel and shelf clock movement testing it is not ideal for most wall clock testing. I was tired of propping the movement stand up with books and pieces of wood to gain height so I decided to address the problem by constructing a cheap and effective extension for testing those movements with long pendulum rods which includes many wall clocks that I enjoy working on. I initially thought about building an entirely new stand for wall clock movements but building an extension to Gene’s stand made much more sense.
Although this extension addresses a shortcoming of Gene’s movement test stand, should you require something taller for grandfather clock movements you can easily modify this one to suit your needs. I do not work on grandfather clocks; the size is right for my purposes.
Frame constructed of plywood and spruce board
1/2 inch C shape platform
The extension consists of four legs, three of which are braced approximately midway on each side and the back with a lower brace along the bottom front. It has a plywood platform on the top where Gene’s stand rests.
Gene’s stand is mounted atop the extension
The extension has no adjustments although leveling can still be achieved on the Gene’s stand by means of the 4 adjustment bolts on the bottom part of the stand
A clamp (or 2) secures the stand to the extension
The extension has no adjustments although leveling can still be achieved on the Gene’s stand by means of the 4 adjustment bolts on the bottom part of the stand. The legs are 1/2″ by 1 1/4″ spruce. The extension measures 18 1/4″ high by 9″ deep by 9 1/4″ wide. I used carpenter’s glue and for extra rigidity and 1″ screws (pre-drilled holes) to secure all the pieces together. I sanded it and applied a clear topcoat to give it an attractive finish. This is a project that took me less than two hours.
Simply attach the extension when you need it. A clamp or two can be used to secure the stand to the extension but I might design something more effective later.
You need some form of stand to test movements and if you do not have one, I highly recommend Gene’s Movement stand. The extension makes it even better. Let me know what you think.
The ultrasonic cleaner is an essential tool for clock repair. Yes, you can get along just fine without one but if you have some spare cash you will not be disappointed.
Ultrasonic cleaning machines are used by a wide variety of professionals where cleanliness is of paramount concern. They are used in many industries including Dental/Medical, Industrial, Firearm, Jewelry/Watch/Clock, automotive repair and so on.
For the past two years I have been struggling with a Harbor Freight “special”, a light duty machine that does a less than average job of cleaning clock parts. It was inexpensive and I thought it was all I needed. Now I am done with it. It was frustrating to use, the cleaning cycle was a short 6 minutes, the heater produced lukewarm water, there was no drain, the basket was made of plastic and at the end of the day it did a poor job of cleaning clock parts. It was time for a replacement.
Harbor Freight Ultrasonic cleaner
My research included visiting manufacturers websites, looking at a myriad of models on on eBay and Amazon and seeking the opinions of clock enthusiasts on Facebook and the NAWCC forum site. There are a plethora of Chinese made machines at very attractive prices. They offer powerful heaters, large basket capacity and the ability to drain the solution from the tank. I have no idea of the reputation of these companies and I could have just as well bought a machine which would fail on delivery or fail in 6 months to a year. I would then be faced with spending another few hundred dollars to replace it. I also dreaded the thought of chasing after a Chinese company for warranty work.
I found L&R Ultrasonics. They have been making commercial quality ultrasonic cleaners for a number of years. They offer a range of sizes. I chose one near the bottom of the line, the Q140. The Q140 is approximately 10 inches long by 6 1/2 inches wide by 8 1/2 inches deep. It has a .85 gallons capacity (3.2L). It has a heater, a mechanical timer that sounds like an egg timer, a drain and it operates at 43kHz. It is made in the USA and costs twice as much as a comparable Chinese cleaner. It is a robust, well made machine backed by a 2 1/2 year warranty and something that should give me piece of mind for many years. A little money can be saved by buying an ultrasonic cleaner without a heater and preheating your solution in a microwave oven but the heater is a nice bonus.
Made in the USA
One negative, it did not come with a stainless steel wire basket which I had to purchase separately from another supplier. The L&R basket was over CDN200! For a fifth of the price I opted for an after market stainless steel mesh basket by Cambridge Time that is designed to fit the Q140.
Enough room for Gilbert time and strike plates plus the gears
Back of unit showing fuse, drain hose and clip for plastic drain hose
Overall, it is well designed, quiet (reasonably), portable, simple to use and well constructed. It uses a basic 60 minute mechanical timer and a simple on-off switch for the heater. One downside is that it is smallish and will accommodate only one movement.
Can you get along without one? Yes, but it makes life so much easier.
At 2:00am Sunday morning, the 4th of November, set your clock one hour behind. That is, if you live in Canada. Your time change date may vary according to the country you live in. Consider yourself lucky if your your country does not observe this archaic convention.
If your country uses Daylight Saving Time (DST), you must change your clocks twice a year.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2 wall clock
“Spring Forward – Fall Back” is a phrase most often heard in the USA and Canada. In North America the word “fall” is used to denote the season, while other English-speaking countries call it autumn. Set your clocks forward 1 hour in the spring at the start of DST (Daylight Saving Time), and 1 hour back in the fall when DST ends.
Records show that the phrase “spring forward, fall back” has been in use at least as far back as the early 20th century. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer, while sacrificing normal sunrise times.
Is this attractive 30 hour weight driven Ogee a Waterbury, a New Haven or an E.N. Welch? All of the above, actually and perhaps more.
The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes to the clock
Is it a marriage or a Frankenstein?
When horologists speak of a marriage they mean the clock in its entirety is not original. It generally means the movement is not original to the case but it can have other meanings as well. Various parts and components might have been added or changed over time. Over the life of a clock it has often been in the hands of many owners particularly if the clock is well over 100 years old. The older the clock and the greater the number of owners means there is an increased chance that there have been minor and even significant changes. Each owner may add or take away components in the interest of having a reliable clock while sacrificing authenticity. Functionality trumps aesthetics. When a clock goes well beyond the horologists definition of a marriage, it is called a Frankenstein.
A Frankenstein clock is made up of a mixture of clock parts from many makers. In this case, a previous owner acquired a number of non-working Ogee clocks, took what was salvageable from each one and constructed a working clock.
New Haven 30 hour movement
This clock was purchased at auction as a non-running example and cost the owner very little money. I was asked to take a look at it and perhaps “do something to make it run”. It came complete with weights for both sides missing only the pendulum bob and the correct key. The key that came with it was a #3 mantel clock key as the original would have been a crank style key. One weight was stuck in the right channel past its hook; the other was loose in the case; not a good way to transport a clock. Though difficult to tell if they are original to this clock, the weights are those typically found in a 30-hour brass time and strike movement.
The numbers have been repainted by the writer
The dial is not original to the case though it is correct for the period. There is a stamped impression in French on the back of the dial suggesting that the clock it was attached to was intended for export to France (Chauncey Jerome?).
Tablet design
The tablet is a nicely detailed floral design but has some loss as one would expect given its age. However, the tablet and the door do not appear to be original to the case. There are small blocks under each hinge suggesting the door was “made to fit” this case. Nails are used on one hinge and screws on the other.
Waterbury coil gong
The case is an E.N. Welch, the time and strike weight driven movement is New Haven and the coil gong is a Waterbury.
The aluminum spindle for the cable just above the movement on the right side is an curious touch.
Aluminum spindle
A wall hook at the top and back of the case suggests that it was hung rather than having sat on a shelf. Knowledgeable Ogee clock owners know that these clocks were never meant to be hung though many were displayed in that manner.
I took the movement out of the case, inspected it for wear and found it to be in very good condition with no obvious pivot, tooth, pinion or click wear. The verge and escape wheel similarly had little wear. The cables for the weights should be just long enough to bring the weight to the bottom of the case with a little to spare. On both sides the cables were twice as long as they should have been. The suspension spring and rod which is a later replacement, is too long as the bottom of the spring touches the crutch loop. The crutch loop had been incorrectly turned 90 degrees requiring a simple twist with pliers to correct it. How it ran is a puzzle since there was no impulse transmitted from the crutch to the pendulum rod. A previous owner, though well intentioned had little knowledge of how a movement functioned.
Incorrect grain direction on top piece
The rosewood veneer though dulled with age is in fair shape and had acceptable repairs with the exception of the flat horizontal strip on the top front, which upon closer inspection, is a replacement with simulated grain oriented in the wrong direction. Other issues are minor chips on the bottom edge of the case, two pieces of missing veneer on the right side and slight bubbling of veneer on the top left side panel.
Veneer issues
So, what is this clock exactly?
The answer is that it is a 30 hour Ogee clock. It is also an amalgam of many clock parts, a Frankenstein. From afar the entire clock looks very good, but closer examination immediately reveals it many sins. As they say, “Nice from afar but far from nice!”. A resourceful person took all the good parts from a variety of clocks and combined them to make a clock that actually runs and keeps good time.
Is it a keeper?
For discerning clock collectors this example is far from acceptable and certainly diminishes the value of a clock considerably even if it runs well. An expert looks for precisely these things prior to any decision and any serious collector of Ogee clocks would instantly walk away. For someone either interested in the history of clock production or those entering the world of clocks wanting a cheap clock to practice and learn with, it is certainly worth keeping.
The clock is running strongly and striking as it should following a cleaning and oiling. This 30 hour New Haven, Waterbury, E.N. Welch Ogee clock from the 19th century would fool most people.
It reminds me of that old expression….Caveat Emptor (Let the Buyer Beware)!
If one were to ask those with a keen interest in Canadian antique clocks, the word Pequegnat would immediately come to mind. Pequegnat produced clocks for close to 40 years and left an indelible mark on Canadian culture.
Predating Arthur Pequegnat is a lesser known clock maker (or clock-makers) that made clocks between 1872 and 1884. The Canada Clock Co, and the Hamilton Clock Co. struggled over a 12 year period to put Canada on the clock-making map. In 1872 the Canada Clock Co. established itself in Whitby, Ontario (Canada) but lasted just 4 years before failing, though largely due to a devastating factory fire.
Canada Clock Company cottage clock
Out of the ashes came another attempt in 1876 and key principles including manager John Collins moved to Hamilton and set up the Hamilton Clock Company. After 4 years this new company also failed and production halted in 1880. In late 1880 one more attempt was made to establish a new company called the Canada Clock Company resurrecting the old name. It is still based in Hamilton at the old Hamilton Clock Co. factory. Success was short-lived as the company declared bankruptcy in 1884 ending a dozen years producing clocks for the Canadian market.
Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were copies American styles
Canada Clock Company, Prince of Wales parlour clock
Canada Clock Company, City of Hamilton parlour clock
I have grouped the clocks from the three companies and these are their characteristics. The most common clocks found today are the weight-driven, thirty-hour “Ogee” style, with colourful birds or flowers surrounded by a black background on the glass tablet. At least five different labels are known, four have a beaver on them. The large printed paper label was located inside the case on the lower back. Spring-driven mantel clocks with plain cases were also made with thirty-hour movements. Although both movements and cases were made in Canada they were obvious copies of American styles.
Hamilton Clock Co Gothic steeple clock with etched glass tablet
Clock label showing the Hamilton Clock Company factory
Also produced was a spring-driven “school house” wall clock.
At least sixty models of spring-driven mantel clocks are known, with both thirty-hour and eight-day movements. Most of the door tablets (Canada Clock Co.) have acid etched glass designs, unique to the two Hamilton-based companies and done in association with a local glass factory. Wall clocks are also found with the Canada Clock Company, Hamilton label.
The most desirable clocks are the ornate time and strike parlour clocks such as the City of Hamilton and Prince of Wales pictured above.
Unfortunately, a valiant attempt to grow a home-bred clock company failed miserably. However, the clocks of all three companies are highly sought after by Canadian collectors today.
This is a Canadian made clock I bought at an antique store on Bloomfield, Ontario this past summer (2018).
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. made clocks in Kitchener, Ontario (Canada) from 1904 to 1941. Canadian clock collectors are very familiar with the name and associate Pequegnat clocks with solid construction, robust movements, conservative designs and nationalism since many clocks were named after towns and cities in Canada.
Pequegnat made mantel, shelf, hall clocks (Tall case) and wall clocks mostly of oak but some were mahogany veneered. The Kitchen clock or gingerbread clock as it is often called was very popular at the time and Pequegnat made an effort to keep up with current styles with a range called the Maple Leaf. There were six versions of the Maple Leaf clock made by the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Though the dimensions are similar they share two unique characteristics; all Maple Leaf’s have the distinctive maple leaf tablet and Maple Leaf pendulum. It is Pequegnat’s interpretation of a truly Canadian clock styled after American clocks.
Label found underneath the base
This clock is affectionately known as the “Pointed Top”. Maple Leaf clocks are easily found on auction & for-sale sites and can be had for a mere fraction of the cost of the more desirable hall and wall clocks.
Hammer and coil gong
I have several Pequegnat clocks in my collection, two of which are Maple Leaf’s, a “fan top” and now this, the “pointed top”. In my view, the pointed top is the best design of the series.
Made of quarter sawn golden oak, it is reminiscent of a Gothic steeple clock, with squared columns on either side and a pointed centre with stylistic applique above the 5 inch dial. The base is a simple angled pedestal sitting on a box frame.
Pendulum bob with Canadian Maple Leaf
Some clocks have something peculiar about them and this one is no exception. Most Pequegnat labels are found on the back board. The label on this clock is underneath the base which is an odd location for a Pequegnat. If this was a standard practice it looks original and has the usual amount of loss one would expect from a 100 year old clock label. While the name Berlin is on the dial, the label indicates that the clock was made in Kitchener, Ontario. There are two possible explanations; either the dial face is a replacement from a older clock or the clock was made during the transition period (1916) when the name of the city was changed from Berlin to Kitchener during the First World War.
The movement is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates
The glass tablet is in excellent condition. It is not uncommon to find some loss especially a few missing maple leaves here and there but this is the best I have seen. The dial face has some flaking but is otherwise in good condition; the Roman Numerals are vivid and unfaded. The spade hands are correct for the clock and look original. The oak case is in great shape with no missing or split pieces. The finish is in excellent condition and the oak grain enhances the simple lines, in fact, this clock has aged very well.
Tablet is in excellent condition
I took the movement out of its case to inspect it. It is a distinctive Arthur Pequegnat movement with nickel-plated steel plates and brass bushings pressed into the plates. Not surprisingly it had been worked on in the past. One bushing on the front plate has punch marks around it otherwise the movement was tight and there appears to be little evidence of wear. There is one small issue however; the lever that activates the passing strike on the half hour is loose in the arbour and has turned to one side. Turning it to the correct position does little to fix the problem. At some point I will get in there with Lock-Tite to secure it.
The fact that it does not strike reliably on the half hour does not particularly bother me. I oiled the movement, reinstalled the movement into its case, set the beat, wound it and it maintains a full eight day cycle.
I am very pleased with this acquisition but I my search goes on for the more desirable 15-day Pequegnat Moncton wall clock and of course the Regulator #1.
A few months ago I was following a NAWCC thread on the volatility of clock prices and thought I would echo comments from some of the posters as well as my own thoughts on why clock prices are seemingly all over the map.
Market conditions and demand play a significant role. I have watched sadly as prices for many early American clocks have plummeted yet high end clocks have retained their value. Theories abound including tough economic times and the newer generation’s rejection of anything old.
As one poster said, “How is a price arrived at? It is a murky and confusing process. People use a number of metrics including a price consistently achieved at auction and their own experience buying and/or selling. Most offer clocks for 2 to 3 times what they expect to receive knowing that they will be negotiated down because it is much harder to mark something up. It is a very inexact science and a source of much debate. An object is ultimately worth what someone is willing to pay.” That’s especially true of a truly rare clock for which there is no real comparison. The term “rare” is difficult to define but rare is what most “experts” generally agree upon.
However, what was once considered “rare” based upon the largely anecdotal experience of persons whether they are dealers, collectors or auctioneers has been changed by the “eBay effect” where rarity is challenged by many examples offered for sale. It has been a real game changer.
Sperry and Shaw New York style clock for $75
Another poster said, “Many people who deal in antiques and collectibles cannot know everything.” It is especially true in the blossoming low end line of antique shops which are no different than flea markets and junk shops. Many of these stores rely on impulse buying and clock experts are not their target customer.
The poster went on to say, “These clocks are not intended be sold to a serious collector, but the impulse buyer will make the clock purchase based on any number of factors – decorative; “That steeple clock would fit perfectly on the mantel” or “We don’t care that it might not work, it is for show only” or nostalgic; “We always wanted an old clock and we can now afford it”. You cannot discount the value of being able to see the object up close, smell it, touch it and hear it tick and or strike.”
A true clock store, usually with repair services, commands high prices for their wares, but the clocks usually come with a guarantee and the comfort of knowing that it will work well and will do so for years to come. Internet stores lack the fixed and variable costs (and reputation) that a brick and mortar establishment has and, all other things being equal, can offer their product at a lower cost. However, to make a true cost comparison, one should add the cost of shipping, packaging, handling and insurance that will need to be paid by the purchaser.
Is this an antique store or a junk shop?
I cringe as I walk into some of these shops. Most antique malls that I’ve discovered charge a monthly rate plus a commission percentage that result in significant markups. I spotted a Mauthe box clock priced at $300.00. It had a marred dial, broken beveled glass panels and marked “as-is”. When I asked the dealer about a better price, his answer was to knock 10% off. I walked away shaking my head.
There is no true “standard” pricing for any vintage or antique clock. As with most objects there is a price range that most would consider reasonable. I have paid more for some clocks than they are worth but armed with increased knowledge I can now make more informed decisions in the future. Caveat Emptor is the principle which should guide every buyer. The buyer alone is responsible for checking the quality and suitability of goods before a purchase is made. Education is the key as an informed buyer will make much better choices.
This is a 30 hour or 1-day New Haven Ogee shelf clock. 1875-80 seems to be the approximate period of manufacture for this smallish Ogee clock. The case measures 18 1/2 by 11 3/4 inches (47cm X 30cm) and the hour strike movement measures 3 1/2 by 5 inches (9cm X 12.7cm).
So, its a bit of a miss-match. Imperfect but attractive just the same
This 30 hour New Haven Ogee shelf clock looks nice from a distance but closer inspection reveals a number of issues regarding the condition of the case. Although the sides panels of the clock are veneered, the front veneer has been stripped likely because of significant loss or damage. Crude chisel marks on the left front of the case suggest that the veneer in this section was tough to take off. This is unfortunate, but I have no intention of re-veneering any part of this clock. There is also veneer loss on the top right side. From a distance the entire clock actually looks good and the casual observer would not notice the difference.
It takes a#3 key to wind the clock. It is probably the only American shelf clock I have that uses a key that small.
The movement looks original to the case and there are indications that it has been worked on in the past. There are punch marks surrounding several pivot holes, an common old-style repair to close the holes.
30 hour movement, prior to cleaning
The coil gong is a replacement and is in a slightly different location than the original gong judging from screw holes to its right. The gong is probably from an E. N. Welch or a Gilbert. The clock dial face is a recent addition and the access door knob looks like it is a later addition.
So, its a bit of a miss-match. Imperfect but functional.
The movement was dis-assembled and the parts cleaned in my recently acquired Quantrex 140 ultrasonic cleaner. The movement parts came out shining particularly the lantern pinions.
Front plate removed
The pivots were in very good shape and polished up well with my Butterworth Bushing Polishing System that I use with my multi-speed Dremel tool. I decided to tackle only the worst bushing holes; the centre canon, back plate and the escape wheel bridge. Four bushings were also installed on second and third wheels, front and back plates.
Movement test
Testing in the clock case rather than on a stand
Some consider 30 hour clocks as a hassle because they must be wound once a day but I am okay with that. This 30-hour Ogee clock runs very well, keeps good time and I am pleased with the servicing.
I posted Part I of a four-part article on this curious schoolhouse clock recently. In this, Part II I discuss the what I like and what frustrates me about this project.
I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. Now that I have it what do I do with it. I thought long and hard about what my next steps should be and considered advice from friends and family.
Do absolutely nothing,
Discard the case, buy a donor case and install the parts I have or,
“Preserve” it, that is, not change it in a significant way but have a working clock.
I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to proceed differently
The good stuff: The dial face is definitely showing its age. There is rust and pitting throughout but the Roman Numerals are fairly clear despite some fading. The Waterbury trademark is visible on the dial just above the centre arbour. The spade hands appear to be original, though rusted. The time and strike movement is intact sans suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob. There is a Waterbury trademark on the front plate of the movement with a patent date of September 22, 1874. Just how long Waterbury used this movement deserves some research but the clock works look to be from the 1890s. The coil gong is clearly marked Waterbury. The bottom line; there is strong evidence that the movement, dial, bezel, clock hands, and coil gong are all from the same clock.
When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered that it was twice as heavy as it should be
Plywood was not available as a general building material until 1928
The frustrating stuff: When I picked up the clock I immediately discovered just how heavy it was. Makers go to great lengths to make clocks as light as possible; this one is very hefty. The backboard and front face are constructed of ½ inch plywood. Plywood would not have been available in the 1890s or even some years afterwards. The centre frame appears to be 3/4 inch board. The movement sits high on a block of wood to bring the arbours closer to the dial but the result is that they protrude too far above the face. Robertson and Phillips screws (the former invented 1909, the latter in 1932) are used everywhere. The “newer” case is very sturdy and would likely last a long time but weighs twice as much as it should. It is an interesting homemade case.
Plywood construction, twice as heavy as a typical clock case should be
The handyman, be it my grandfather or someone who it was passed on to certainly had the best of intentions. The original pieces such as the dial, movement etc. were retained but the original case was discarded. My grandparents were poor and lived modestly. In those days if things wore out folks would go to great lengths to keep them running often resorting to home repairs with materials at hand. The goal was functionality not aesthetics.
The movement, coil gong, dial face, bezel and hands are all from the same clock
Four screw holes were drilled into the original brass dial bezel and at one point in its life it was painted red. The bezel would have been originally hinged to the front face of the clock. The dial glass is missing, perhaps discarded after it broke. Aside from the 4 screws holding the dial bezel, I counted 20 more screw holes once I lifted up the bezel.
Lastly, the short drop section is without an access door.
Next steps: I had hopes of restoring this clock to its former glory but after discovering a home-built case I have decided to take another course of action.
The dial, bezel, movement and coil gong are the important mechanical bits which are in good shape. Missing are the suspension spring, pendulum rod and pendulum bob, all easily available through any clock supplier. The movement wheels run free and the mainsprings are good; all the parts are there aside from those mentioned above and there is no reason why it should not run reliably after cleaning and servicing.
The clock is waiting for me on my cousins kitchen table
The case is what it is, it is part of my history, part of my family history. It will be sanded and stained dark walnut followed by a clear topcoat. I will affix a brass plaque in memory of my grandfather and proudly hang it on the wall.
But first: The first order of business is to clean up the clock including the brass dial face sections. Next, buy new glass for the dial and a hinge for the bezel plus the movement parts that are required. Finally, I will fashion a new drop door using old wood from a donor clock.
And that’s where it ends. It can be no more than what it is.
It may not be the prettiest clock in my home but it will be a great conversation piece and after 70 years it will finally tell the time. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.
The clock is now on my project bench and I will post two more blog articles in November detailing the steps towards preserving this interesting clock.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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