Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
From JG.
“Hi, Ron ! I’m a clock lover (and small time collector) based in Gurgaon, just outside the capital city of New Delhi, India. My surname suggests that my ancestors were clock and watch sellers but the family lost it’s business due to a profligate great-grandfather, or so family lore says.
About four years ago I picked up a Mauthe wall clock with a quarterly self-correcting Westminster chime with an art deco exterior and it has given me trouble free service subsequently. Minor adjustments are needed to keep time, particularly since the climate in our part of India can get fiercely hot (usually dry heat but humid in monsoons) and bitterly cold in winter. A bit of tweaking on the pendulum bob keeps the clock going well. Like your mantel piece, the chime gets a bit sluggish after 5 days, so I need to wind it up twice a week.
The dial has the Mauthe trademark and name, but there’s another separate mark on the dial stating “Gani and Sons, Madras”. This firm still exists and they were formerly importers of quality watches and clocks into India. They still assemble German movement long-case clocks and install tower clocks to this day.
Last month, I picked up my second Mauthe from Zurich – again a Westminster quarterly chime wall clock – but this is a much larger clock. It travelled as checked-in luggage padded in bubble wrap and surrounded by clothes as further padding (I had no choice !), zipped into a rather large soft bag bought specially for the purpose – I couldnt find a hard bag large enough. Thankfully, it survived three flights and several baggage belts without any damage, and took up poisition immediately. It took about a week of pendulum adustments and now keeps great time.
This clock, too, has a Mauthe trademark, but it seems to be an older variant.
I am aware that Mauthe changed their trademark a few times (thrice ?) but I’m unable to gather accurate and authentic information on the years in which these were changed. I’d be able to date my clocks if could get get this, and I was wondering if you would be able to assist me in this.
I could email or “whatsapp” you pics of both these clocks and specifically the logos if you’re in a position to help.
For your information, some of the other clocks in my collection, some of which are heirlooms, are two Beaumonts (one is a mantel piece from around 1920, unfortunately this one has a crudely replaced dial and a new case, but retains the original movement, and the second is a wall clock, completely original, from 1915 or so); an Ansonia wall clock with a calendar (1905); another Ansonia (probably earlier than 1900) which stands on a low cabinet but can also be placed on a wall; a new grandfather cased in India and a couple of pocket watches.”
I was fascinated with JG and his family history as well as his appreciation for Mauthe clocks. He send me photos of his clocks with photos of trademarks. My reply.
“Not much success determining the trademark dates you are looking for but I wonder if you have tried http://www.antiqueclockspriceguide.com/identifytrademarks.php
There is also a forum (discussion board) connected with this site that might lead you to more information.
I posted on the http://mb.nawcc.org/forum.php discussion site but I gather there are not many Mauthe collectors however if anything comes up I will let you know.”
Hobbies are a great way of finding comfort through stepping off the roller coaster of life
In this increasingly complex and chaotic world where many of us seek ways of exploring constructive activities & pastimes a hobby is one such escape. Hobbies are a great way of finding comfort, stepping off the roller coaster of life and rising to the surface after seeming to drown in life’s problems. A hobby allows one to disconnect briefly or longer from the social media universe that seems to consume us every day. Pursuing and maintaining a hobby, whether it is for casual leisure or serious pursuit, is a regular activity that should be done for pure enjoyment. It is healthy for mind, body and soul!
The more you know, the more you grow
There are 9 Reasons why clock collecting/repair hobby works for me and might even work for you.
I meet people. This hobby requires that I come into contact with other people when I purchase clocks, have clocks repaired or ask for advice.
A clock repair shop in Nova Scotia
Builds my self-esteem. Developing and maintaining a clock hobby is important because the small successes I have from day to day or week to week are enough to sustain me while other pressures are occurring in my life and it is the one solid thing to feel good about. It gives me renewed energy to tackle other challenges in life.
Avoid boredom. I have zero scientific evidence of this but I really believe that boredom is responsible for a lot of society’s ills and destructive behaviours. How many people come home after a challenging work day to watch TV for hours on end when they could be doing something constructive and rewarding?
My Hobby is a point of connection with other people. It gives me common ground with a small, select portion of the population, the people who collect, repair antique and vintage clocks, the people who share my passion. They are from all over the world. Every week I get inquiries from clock enthusiasts from all corners of the earth asking for advice on their particular clock.
Clock collecting enriches my perspective. I remember an old adage: “The more you know, the more you grow”. Any opportunity to learn something new, to be challenged anew, is great for character-building by seeing the world through refreshed eyes. Clock collecting and repair helps me differentiate myself from others and provides me with key examples of where I have overcome adversity or tackled a difficult situation and emerged on the other side.
It keeps me stay youthful. Establishing and maintaining a hobby is a very healthy habit to form for later years. Hobbies are excellent for brain health especially if you are looking for something to stave off cognitive decline. The older you get the more trouble you will have struggling to fill your time with meaningful activities. Starting a hobby early in life pays dividends in the long run, much like an interest bearing investment.
Clock collecting combines with other interests. Photography and traveling are two other interests in my life. Blog writing is another, of course. This hobby allows me to combine all of those interests and as a side benefit my wife, who is also my travel partner and clock locator, encourages me every day.
My hobby makes me interesting. At a party, you can only talk about your occupation or your grandchild for so long before people’s eyes begin to glaze. But if I mention that I have a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion, a clock that hung in a railway station near where I live, a rare clock I bought for almost nothing, their ears perk up.
Halifax Explosion clock, Junghans Crispi wall clock
Pictou rail station clock, Arthur Pequegnat, Canadian Time circa 1930
A way to relieve stress. My hobby provides stress relief simply because it is an oasis from the rest of my life. You can immerse yourself in a totally different world when you are focused on getting that darned strike side to work correctly on a troublesome clock movement.
Okay maybe clock collecting and repair is not a hobby for you but you can insert whatever hobby you wish to have or already have and I'll bet the 9 reasons above are pretty much on your list.
I acquired this elegant antique French mantel/shelf clock online in March of 2017 and it is the only French clock in my collection. Not many come up on Nova Scotia online for-sale sites.
French time and strike mantel clock
I felt somewhat guilty leaving the home of the man I bought it from because he told me that he was selling off his possessions to provide for his wife after his passing as he was in the final stages of a terminal illness.
Clock face showing the two winding arbours
The elderly gentleman said that the low price reflected the fact that the strike side was not functioning and it had been like that since shortly after the last servicing. When inserting the key in the strike side arbour I immediately noticed that the spring had tension but it would not click. It could be a simple fix.
There was nothing on the inside of the case that would tell me anything about the maker
It is a time and strike clock of French origin from the turn of the 20th Century. The clock is 11 inches high by 8 1/4 inches wide by 5 1/4 inches deep, jet black, either slate or Belgian marble with lighter reddish brown rectangular accents and serpentine scrolling. It is quite heavy! The dial has a brass centre cup with enamel surround, delicate hands and painted Arabic numerals.
It is in the Grecian architectural style popular during the late 19th century both here and in France. But for a large chip on the bottom right of the case and a smaller chip on on the bottom left it is in very good condition. Unfortunately chips on the corners of these old French marble clocks are quite common. The movement is an exquisitely crafted French time and strike mechanism with a pleasant sounding but subdued coiled gong. It is unsigned.
The only markings are the word Brocot on the speed adjustment gear and another marking on the back plate. This patented Brocot speed adjustment was invented by French clock maker and inventor Louis-Gabriel Brocot in the 1800s.
Brocot patented speed adjustment
Stamped on the rear plate is Marque Deposee which means registered trademark in French. EBay sellers often mistakenly refer to it as the maker’s stamp. Careful examination of the movement revealed that there was nothing on the inside of the case or the movement that would give me a clue about the maker. A mystery, but not surprising as many French clocks are similarly unsigned.
Time and strike movement
The previous owner advised that the clock had been serviced but I decided to take the movement out of it’s case to inspect it more closely, re-oil if necessary and determine why the strike side was not functioning. The movement is relatively simple to remove. To extract it from it’s case undo the two slotted screws (rear) that hold the straps and pull the movement out from the front.
Side view of movement showing brass straps
A very nice acquisition though I keep thinking about that old fellow
I discovered that for whatever reason the click screw was very loose, and not engaging the ratchet. After screwing it down tightly the click engaged the ratchet as it should. I can only assume that during it’s last servicing the click screw was not tightened securely.
The strike side click screw was very looseNumbers on bob correspond with those on the movementPendulum bob with rate adjustment screw
I re-oiled the movement, returned it to its case and wound both sides. There are two speed adjustments on the clock, one on the bob and a finer speed adjustment arbour just above the number 12 on the dial. At the moment the clock is running a little slow and will take weeks to regulate. A one-ended key came with the clock, the original would have been double-ended.
It is a very quiet ticker with a pleasant strike and perhaps the perfect clock for those who might be bothered by the sound of a mechanical clock in any room.
A very nice acquisition though I keep thinking about that old fellow.
In 2014 during a visit to Portugal I had a chance to visit one of the country`s premier museums in Lisbon.
They had a magnificent collection of antique clocks but this particular clock attracted my attention. This weight driven “Regulador” was made by Burgh, Bernard (II) van Risenburgh in Paris between 1745-50. It is made of oak with exotic woods and bronze. The style is Rococo or late baroque, very ornate with elaborate though balanced and a less angular asymmetrical design.
French Rococo style floor or tall-case clockIntricate detail of the clock face
In this age of everything electronic, it may surprise some people that a newly acquired mechanical clock bought at the local garage sale, flea market or antique store needs to be wound on a regular basis. Winding a mechanical clock takes a level of care but a few simple guidelines should have you on your way.
Here’s how to wind an antique or vintage mechanical clock correctly. By following these tips and guidance, you’ll gain the skill and confidence needed to wind your clock properly and maintain its functionality.
A typical German mantel clock
Let’s begin by discussing some terms.
Winding Arbours or Winding Points and Their Function
On your clock’s dial (excluding cable-driven tall case clocks), you will notice one, two, or three holes, known as “winding arbours” or winding points. Each arbour serves a specific purpose, and the number of winding arbours indicates the number of gear trains (or sets of gears) in the clock.
For example, a clock with one winding hole is a time-only clock. Two winding holes typically indicate a time-and-strike clock. These clocks strike the hour on the hour and may also strike on the half-hour, either on a bell or gong. Clocks with three winding arbours chime on the quarter-hour, producing a musical tone. On such clocks, the center arbour winds the time train, the left arbour winds the strike train, and the right arbour winds the chime train.
On some clocks, there is a smaller hole on the clock face near or above the 12 o’clock position. It is also an arbour, but a smaller one used for regulating the speed of your clock. If you have a double-ended key, the small end fits that arbour. Some clocks will have the regulating arbour located under the centre cannon where the hands are attached.
The Difference Between Strike and Chime
A strike or a chime is simply the clock sounding the time. An antique or vintage “time and strike” clock indicates the hour by striking once for each hour or using a two-tone strike, such as a Normandy or “Bim-Bam” strike.
On the other hand, a chime is a musical tone and a typical musical tone found on most clocks with three winding points is the Westminster chime. Some clocks provide more choices such as the Schatz W3 bracket clock which has 3 musical tones, St Michael’s, Whittington and Westminster.
On older clocks, there may or may not be an additional strike on the half-hour. Older antique clocks from the mid-1800s, for example, typically do not strike on the half-hour to preserve the wind on the strike side.
Typically, striking clocks have two winding points, while chiming clocks have three.
Where Winding Points Are Located
On this spring-driven, Seth Thomas mantel clock (photo below) the left arbour, indicated by an arrow, winds the strike side and the right arbour, the right arrow winds the time side. The smaller hole just below the centre cannon is for regulating the clock using a double-ended key.
Winding arbours on an antique Seth Thomas mantel clock
On the Ingraham clock (photo below), there is only one set or train of gears that indicates it is a time-only clock, hence the single arbour or winding point. The barely visible, smaller hole in the loop end of the “2” on the number 12 is for regulating the clock.
Winding arbour on an Ingraham Nordic banjo clock
If you find the sound of the strike unpleasant or it disturbs your guests, you can wind only the time side, and the clock will still run perfectly fine without winding the strike side.
However, to ensure even wear and proper maintenance, it is advisable to wind both sides of a striking clock.
The Running Time or Cycle of a Clock
Most clocks are designed to run for eight days. Some older clocks run 30 hours and others run as long as 30 days on a wind. Still others such as anniversary clocks will run 400 days on a wind.
Double-ended Key
For eight-day clocks, winding once a week ensures the clock continues running smoothly. Establishing a routine, such as winding your clock(s) on the same day each week, is a helpful habit. It’s also a good idea to make occasional adjustments to your clock, such as fine-tuning its speed to account for seasonal changes. You can find more details in an article I wrote about regulating your clock.
Clock Keys
It is common for a newly acquired clock to come without a key, and if it does have one, it is usually a replacement. Finding a clock with its original key is quite rare. The key that accompanies the clock is likely to fit, but if your clock has a speed adjustment arbour (marked F-S) on the dial, typically located near the top, it should have a double-ended key.
If your clock has a one-ended winding key and a speed adjustment arbour is present, the key is not original to the clock. Double-ended keys are necessary because the speed adjustment arbour is considerably smaller than the winding arbour.
Key Size and Type
All mechanical clocks require a winding key, like the one shown below. The exceptions are alarm clocks and some carriage clocks, which have built-in winding keys. Keys come in various sizes, so it’s important to have the correct size for your clock’s arbour. The key should fit snugly without being too loose.
If your clock came without a key it can be purchased at any clock supply house such as Perrinin Vancouver, Canada. Timesavers and Merritts are clock suppliers in the USA where keys can be purchased.
Ingraham Huron winding key. Home-made but functional and over 120 years old
Over-winding a clock is a common myth. A clock which “appears” to be over-wound seizes because of a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil
Winding Your Mechanical Clock
If the dial is covered by a glass door, open it to access the clock face. Insert the key into one of the winding arbours and use your non-dominant hand to steady the case while winding. To protect the finish of the case, it’s a good idea to wear a cotton glove on your non-dominant hand.
Next, turn the key clockwise. If it doesn’t turn clockwise, try turning it counterclockwise. Some clocks wind in either direction, so this is normal. Avoid forcing the key; apply minimal pressure and continue winding until you feel resistance. Once you encounter resistance, stop winding and do not force the key further.
Below is a clear example of a previous owner using excessive force to wind the movement in the wrong direction. The right spring barrel has become unhooked from the main wheel, which only happens when significant force is applied while winding in the opposite direction.
If you lose the key, simply purchase a replacement. Never use pliers or any other hand tools to wind a clock.
Chinese clock movement
The “clicking” sound heard while winding the arbour is the click engaging the ratchet on the mainspring. The ratchet’s purpose is to secure the mainspring in place with each turn of the key.
An 8-day clock usually requires about 14 half turns of the key as the arbour does one complete turn per day.
Mainspring ratchet and click.
Allow the key to gently return to its click. On the rare occasion that the click slips or breaks, resist the urge to release it quickly. Instead, let the key slowly unwind in your hand to prevent potential damage to the teeth, gears, and even your hand. Letting the key go suddenly can cause collateral damage to other parts of the movement.
The myth of overwinding a clock is common, but a clock that “seems” overwound actually seizes due to a buildup of old oil and dirt in the mainspring coil, which causes the coil to stick. Regular servicing of a mechanical clock is an essential part of ownership and helps prevent future issues.
Clocks with Weights
Not all clocks use springs — for example, grandfather clocks and one-day ogee clocks are weight-driven. On these clocks, the weights must be raised to the top to begin the weekly time cycle. This can be done either by inserting a crank key into the winding arbor on the clock face or by manually pulling the chains to lift the weights.
For clocks with winding chains, gently pull down on the shorter side of the chain until the weight reaches the underside of the wooden seatboard, stopping at the weight stop bar. Repeat this process for the remaining two chains if it’s a chiming clock. Allow the chains to do the work — do not assist by lifting the weights at the same time. Pushing up on the weights could cause the chain to slip over the winding gear teeth or become unhooked. To protect the brass finish on the weight shells, wear cotton gloves while steadying the weights as they are pulled up.
For tall case clocks with cable drives, use a crank key to wind by inserting the key into each winding hole on the clock face. Turn the key slowly until the weights are raised to the top.
All three weights on a chiming grandfather clock descend more or less together through the week.
On older tall case clocks with weights hidden behind an access door, open the door to watch the weights rise as you wind the clock. As the weights near the top, slow down and stop when you feel resistance.
Thirty-hour time and strike or one-day clocks are typically wound with a winding crank inserted in the dial face winding points once per day. Wind the weights to the top of the case at approximately the same time each day.
Final thoughts
In conclusion, take pride in your mechanical clock and the craftsmanship it represents. Wind it regularly, care for it properly, and have it serviced when necessary. Even if you prefer not to keep it running, cherish it as a remarkable piece of horological heritage.
For visual learners who prefer to see the process in action, I’ve created a helpful video demonstration showing exactly how to wind a clock. You can watch it here:
Tick-Talk Tuesday is all about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). If I am stumped, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
I wrote a blog article offering advice for online purchases which you can see here.
Summarizing my advice for online shoppers;
Check the dates on the listings. The longer they are listed the more the seller is inclined to sell for a better price.
Meeting the same day is crucial; you do not want the seller to get cold feet and you do not want someone coming before you to buy the clock.
Cash is the rule. No cheques!
If you cannot negotiate a final price by email suggest talking it over on the phone
Be courteous and polite at all stages of the deal
Unmarked French clock, Kijiji purchase
JC writes, “Very good advice overall. I have only one small issue: I think asking about dates (how old is it?) is kind of pointless. I’ve seen clock-makers who have been in business for decades (30+ years) who can’t even correctly date a clock to within 100 years. I’m thinking of a specific example of a well known clock-maker who was explaining a repair on a comtoise clock “from the early 1700s”. The clock was actually from around 1840. I find that this sort of mis-dating happens often, and even with so called experts. Another example I can give you is a Black Forest clock specialist who had a particular clock he was demonstrating in a video, also apparently also “early 1700s” with wooden wheels, but it had an original coiled gong strike inside. The earliest evidence of coiled spiral gongs only date back to as early as maybe 1820-1830. Before this they simply just didn’t exist yet. This was from an EXPERT collector. Someone who specializes in Black Forest clocks. Some of his clocks are worth 5 figures.
That said, I would not trust the word of any eBay, Craigslist, Kijiji, or even auction house seller.
As far as your little clock goes, I think it was an absolute STEAL! True, the strike side could potentially have major problems, but even as a timepiece, the marble is gorgeous. With the price of shipping these days, it was an especially nice find. I haven’t been too lucky finding clocks locally. I think I’ve only bought a small handful, and they tend to be anniversary clocks, and mass produced American clocks (gingerbreads and mantle clocks) with a few German Art Deco style clocks.
I’ve bought a *LOT* of my clocks online (eBay) and for 95% of them, I just went with photos. If the photos were not good enough, I’d pass. It has largely worked out for me, but I ALWAYS assume they will not work. There is only ONE clock that arrived in pristine working condition.
Rare Ingraham Huron found on a local online for-sale site
Ansonia drop octagon, Kijiji purchase
My response to JC . “A good point JC and one that I will consider. The answer I usually get when I ask about the age of the clock is how long the seller has had it. If they say they’ve had it for years or it was their mothers, uncles etc. I am naturally much more interested than someone who is just selling the clock for quick cash. I have acquired some great clocks that have been passed down through family (see photos on this blog). They are not without issues but sometimes the story is just as exciting as the clock itself.
I get most of my clocks from online local for-sale sites that I can pick up within an hour or two from where I live. I scour the sites everyday and will sometimes send out emails to sellers without seriously considering a purchase but occasionally their reply piques my interest. I have had one very bad experience with an EBay clock purchase so I try to stay away from them (not saying I wouldn’t in the future).
Seth Thomas Adamantine time and strike mantel clock
I am servicing the first antique clock I ever bought. After having serviced many others it is time to give this clock a little love.
Some years ago (2000) my wife and I were traveling around Nova Scotia and stopped in a little village called Blockhouse. We found an antique store, walked in and never intended to buy an antique clock that day but left with an American Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock. It looked like it was worth many more times than we paid for it. We left the store thinking we had stolen it.
My research revealed that thousands were made and the price we paid at the time likely reflected its true value. The clock came home and sat on top of our piano and looked great. For a couple of years I wound it up religiously and marveled at its beautiful marbleized case and the sound of the gong on the hour and the bell on the half hour. I stopped winding it, let it sit on the piano and ignored it. About 5 years ago as I began to build my collection of vintage and antique clocks I wound it up and have kept it running ever since.
These clocks have become known to collectors as “Black Mantel Clocks”, and were popular from 1880 to 1931. Adamantine veneer was developed by the Celluloid Manufacturing Company of New York City, and was covered by U.S. Patent dated September 7, 1880. Seth Thomas Clock Company purchased the right to use the Adamantine veneer in 1881. At that time Seth Thomas stamped the year of manufacture on the bottom of each case. Though somewhat difficult to read the date on this particular clock is 1907.
Re-assembled and tested
Each clock I added to my collection needed some work and so I left the ST thinking that one day I would service it. Despite the fact that I kept it oiled, displayed it in a relatively dry dust free environment, it needed a good cleaning and a little bushing work.
Once you take a movement out of its case you begin to discover it’s little secrets. I immediately noticed a stripped speed regulating gear. The regulator arbour runs through the plates and is connected to the pendulum hanger to slow or speed up the clock. The rate adjustment is on the front of the clock and the smaller end of a double-sided key is used to speed and slow down the clock. I observed a rate adjustment screw on the pendulum bob. The “newer” bob had evidently been added at some point in the clock’s life to replace the stripped gear. The other possibility is that it might have had both. I have seen French clocks with both a front rate adjustment and an adjustable bob.
Regulating gear is stripped
The movement was taken apart and the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Back of movement showing
Bushing wear was not an excessive but enough to justify installing 4 bushings; S2 front, T2 front, and escape wheel, both front and back plates. Putting the movement back together is relatively easy though it is always frustrating positioning the helper springs and levers in place as you move the pivots into their holes. It takes me a few attempts to get the strike side gears and levers correctly aligned. The stop wheel, stop lever, maintenance lever and count wheel hook take a little trial and error and it not something I have managed to get right the first time.
Seth Thomas clock face
Once back together the movement was oiled and placed back into it’s case. It should run reliably for years to come. Save for a slight aging of the clock face the clock is in excellent original condition.
Antique Seth Thomas Adamantine clocks look great on any mantel.
The Ansonia octagonal short drop wall clock was (is) commonly known as a schoolhouse clock. This clock was manufactured in 1912. The number “12” , the year stamp, is found on the lower front plate of the movement. The letter “N” is also stamped on the movement.
In this post, Part II, I will proceed with cleaning the movement and performing required bushing work in addition to assembling and final testing.
12 and N on the plate
This is my one and only Ansonia clock. Since it is a fairly conventional time-only movement with an outboard escape wheel, it is fairly simple to work on and for those of you starting out, this is the first movement you should attempt.
Movement in the case prior to disassembly
After applying a C-clamp to the mainspring to contain the spring’s power, I disassembled the movement, placed the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner, then cleaned and polished the pivots prior to the bushing work. The clock required six bushings, three on the front plate and three on the back. The worst was the third wheel, as you can see in this photo. This is not unexpected because of the constant power and stress produced by the mainspring, but it definitely indicates a very worn pivot hole.
Close-up of bushing wear, the circle indicates where the pivot residesThe mainspring was inspected and cleanedUsing a micrometer to check pivot diameterBergeon Bushing Machine, an indispensable tool for bushing work
The only challenge I had was dealing with the brass arm that supports the front plate pivot on the escape wheel (arrow). To install the bushing I had to stabilize the arm on the bushing machine without bending or breaking it, and using very light hammer strikes to seat the bushing.
Arrow indicating tricky bushing install
The bushing went in nicely, as you can see in the next photo. Otherwise, the remaining bushing work went as expected.
Bushing installed on escape wheel arbourTesting in the case
Although I have an excellent clock stand, I decided to test the movement in the case due to the acute mounting angle of the movement. I tossed out the old screw,s which did not appear to be original, and used new slotted brass screws to attach the dial pan and the hinge for the brass bezel. In the process of fumbling with the glazed bezel, I knocked off the brass catch that fits into a slot on the case front. An angled wood block fits into the notch on the catch when the bezel is closed. I got out my torch and, with some sanding, an application of flux, and sufficient solder, the catch operates as it should.
Brass catch repair
Since I serviced the movement, why not go one step further and refresh the brass? I gave all the brass a good cleaning with Brasso, bringing back its original luster. Someone messed with the clock face some time ago, which is unfortunate, but I have decided to leave it as-is. A new paper dial face would not look right.
Ansonia clock project is complete
A simple project that can be done in half a day, enough to extend the life of this handsome antique schoolhouse wall clock that will tick along for years to come.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face and my responses to your questions with advice on your particular clock concern(s). For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer.
Arthur Pequegnat clocks were made between 1908 and 1941 in Berlin (now Kitchener), Ontario. Those produced before 1917 had “Berlin” inscribed on the dial face. The town of Berlinfrom 1854 until 1912 became the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916. The name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany consequently the decision was made by city officials to change the name to Kitchener midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario (Canada). Arthur Pequegnat clocks were the only wholly made Canadian clocks (aside from a short run of clocks made by the Canada Clock Company and later the Hamilton Clock Company in the 1870s) and are particularly sought after by Canadian collectors.
AO from Ontario writes, “Good Morning Ron, I live in Ontario (Canada) and have two Pequegnat clocks I am thinking of selling. Could you give me an idea of how much they are worth? The mantel clock is an Oxford. Thank you.
The clocks she mentions in her email are the Arthur Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock (time and strike) and the King Edward time-only wall clock missing the King Edward lower drop decal.
Pequegnat Oxford mantel clock from the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario
King Edward with 15 day Moncton movement showing decal from the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario
I replied. “I looked at your photos and have some comments. The time-only wall clock is known as the King Edward. From the photo yours seems to look intact save for the missing decal in the lower drop. A King Edward decal should be in the middle of the glass panel. It appears to be replacement glass which will certainly affect the value. However you should be able to get in the $600 to $1000 range for your King Edward clock. If you are selling in Canada where collectors are attracted to Pequegnat clocks because they are wholly Canadian made you should do reasonably well. If the clock has been recently serviced you can expect to price it a little higher.
Mantel clocks always command lower prices but your Oxford should easily sell in the $400 range. I would price both slightly higher and see what responses you get.”
AOs reply, ” Hi again Ron, A dealer has offered me $750.00 for both clocks. Is that reasonable knowing that he has to resell them?”
I advised AO that they should dicker a bit and that the dealer certainly knows the value. I suggested that she could also try to sell it on an online for-sale site.
AO replied later and said they posted the clock on a for-sale site and the same dealer offered $650 for the King Edward.
I emailed her again asking how they made out with the sale. AO replied and said the dealer backed out and the clocks are still for sale.
UPDATE: AO wrote 1 week later and said she has sold them both for $350 more that the first offer. She is very pleased.
Saint Patrick’s Day – it is only fitting to feature a Smiths Enfield mantel clock that came all the way from Ireland
Starting Tuesday, March 21st I will feature a regular blog called Tick-Talk Tuesday.
The purpose of the blog is twofold, the first, to talk about letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clocks, issues you might have had and challenges you face as well as my responses to your questions and my advice on your clock issues and concerns. The second purpose is a place for you, the reader, to profile your favorite clock or a clock that has presented a particular challenge for you.
The focus will be on you, the reader
So, the focus will be on you, the reader and contributor. Most of the comments and questions are ones that I have received privately but to preserve anonymity I will not mention names. To profile your clock, simply send me photos and a description (my contact email is ronjoiner@gmail.com) and I would be more than happy to present your prized clock to the many readers of this blog. Although privacy is important, let me know if you do not mind having your name published.
I am looking forward to this feature and between us it should be very informative.
It is a French mantel or shelf clock. I have no idea of the maker but it is an antique (over 100 years old), possibly 1890 to 1900. It has “Marque Deposse” stamped on the back plate but that simply means “trademark” in French. It is not a maker’s name. The clock is 11 inches high by 8 inches wide by 5 inches deep.
Rear access door
It is a time and strike movement on a coil gong. Unfortunately, the strike side does not work though the seller disclosed that to me before I bought the clock. I can feel the tension of the spring when I turn the key in the arbor but the spring does not engage the click, so, a broken or disconnected click I presume. The previous owner described it as having a melodious sounding gong. I would love to hear it. I wondered if the spring barrels could be taken out without separating the plates but further research has revealed that the movement must be dis-assembled.
Clock face
The clock dial face is in two sections. The brass inner pan is surrounded by a porcelain dial with painted numbers. The dial door is flat glazing in a brass bezel with a high quality “hidden” hinge. A taper pin holds the delicately crafted hands. There is a smaller arbor, a speed regulator above the 12, which allows more precise tuning in concert with a speed adjustment on the pendulum.
Pendulum back showing stamped numbers
Aside from numbers on the back plate, an identical batch number on the pendulum and the Marque Deposee stamping, there is no makers mark. There may be a mark on the gong block but I won’t know until I release the nut on the base panel to take it out from underneath the clock. The numbers on the back plate are 3851-55. The number 5 5 is the pendulum length as in 5 and 5/12 French inches.
Front side of pendulum
Time and Strike movement
The movement appears to be of superior quality though common in a number of higher end French clocks. From what I can determine, the movement can be taken out of the case by undoing the two screws that go through the back bezel into the brass straps that protrude through the case from the front bezel. The movement should come out through the front once the two screws are released. The movement looks clean and there is sufficient oil in the pivots (no black or green gunk). I have other projects on the go so it might take me some time to take the movement out for inspection but for the time being I will let it run to regulate it.
The Corinthian style case is very heavy and is quite possibly Dinant Belgian Black Marble. Aside from the non-functioning strike side there are other issues. One is a very noticeable chip on the bottom right corner of the base which you can see in the photo below and the other is a small chip in the top left corner which is less visible. Close-up that larger chunk out of the corner looks ugly; from a distance it is hardly visible.
The worst of two chips, bottom right corner
Despite the slight damage the overall look is impressive. Most of what I see is well preserved. Indeed, it is a very attractive and stately antique French mantel clock that now occupies a prominent place in our family room.
Who made it? Unless there is a maker’s mark on the gong block or somewhere else on the movement, I may never know.
This article will explore the notion that a Vienna Regulator clock is not a true regulator. I realize that any discussion of regulator clocks produces a wide variety of conflicting opinions, nevertheless, here is my take subject of the Vienna Regulator and why it is not a true regulator.
The word “regulator” is loosely defined but according to this definition it is a master clock, usually of great accuracy, against which other clocks are checked. Respected collectors like Derek Roberts tend to stay away from defining a regulator clock and instead refer to them as precision pendulum clocks. In this article I will present three examples for the reader to consider.
Every clock that has the word regulator on it is not a regulator
Every clock that has the word regulator on it is not a regulator. Think about it. Why would a clock manufacturer put the word “regulator ” on a clock? It is simply a marketing ploy. The term “regulator” is one that connotes accuracy but in the frantic world of clock marketing it is a word that sells plenty of clocks.
If it was expressly designed as a precision pendulum clock it can be called a regulator
Definition of a regulator
It is not difficult to define a “regulator” by its mechanical characteristics. Regulator clocks were invented in the late 18th century as a quest for greater timekeeping accuracy. If the clock was designed as a precision pendulum clock it can be called a regulator. The principle features of a regulator clock are:
Quality weight driven device,
With maintaining power,
A heavy pendulum (not necessarily mercury),
Generally eight-day movement, though some are more than 8 days,
Has some form of temperature control compensation,
Has a seconds dial,
Is 60 beats per minute,
Has one gear train
Features a deadbeat or pinwheel escapement and
Is expressly engineered to keep accurate time.
Complicated features like calendars and strike trains are omitted in the quest for accuracy. Regulators were (are) capable of extreme accuracy for a mechanical clock.
Does the addition of a strike train take a clock out of the regulator category? In theory, yes. The strike train takes some of the accuracy out of the clock, as the time train produces more friction when lifting the strike levers. If we accept the definition of a regulator as an extremely accurate clock to be used as a time standard, you will not find a strike train on these clocks.
Here are three examples
Example number 1. Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, A Handsome Clock, fitted with a Movement which is un-excelled”, Beautiful Finish on both Movement and Case, (Arthur Pequegnat advertisement)
The Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 clock is often compared to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 as a precision regulator. Many Regulator #1 clocks found their way into offices and rail stations all across Canada. The Regulator #1 is the best timekeeper made by The Pequegnat Clock Company of Kitchener Ontario (Canada). The company states this in it’s advertising: “A Handsome Clock, fitted with a Movement which is un-excelled“, Beautiful Finish on both Movement and Case” and “The Finest Office Clock Made”! They are weight driven, time-only, at 80 beats per minute, had a deadbeat escapement, with heavy pendulum, eight day movement with a brass weight hung on an iron bracket, maintaining power, a seconds dial and were designed to keep accurate time. It was a reasonably accurate clock used as a time standard.
However, some would argue that at 80 beats per minute it would not be considered a true regulator.
Is this Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1 a regulator?
Example number 2. Mauthe “Horse Crown” time and strike spring driven wall clock.
The clock you see in the photo below is typically advertised on online for-sale sites as a “Vienna Regulator”. It is an attractively designed 1890s spring driven, time and strike clock made by Frederick Mauthe. Those individuals who sell these clocks have no hesitation in calling them Regulators. Let’s apply the definition above.
Is this a precision regulator?
A spring driven movement disqualifies it immediately.
Is it not capable of extreme accuracy.
It is 116 beats per minute
Was it conceived and designed as a precision clock? No!
Is this Mauthe horse crown wall clock a Vienna Regulator?
Example number 3. Miniature one-weight Vienna Regulator
This is an Austro-Hungarian era time-only weight driven clock made in the early 1870s. Many would accept this as a Vienna Regulator and would have no hesitation advertising it as such. It has a deadbeat escapement, it has one weight, is a time-only movement, has a heavy pendulum, with an eight day running time and has maintaining power.
Is this one-weight miniature Vienna wall clock a regulator?
Let’s apply the definition above.
Is this a regulator? No!
There is no seconds dial, and, is
80 beats per minute
Is it capable of extreme accuracy. No!
Was it specifically designed as a precision clock? No!
Granted, it is capable of some accuracy but it is not a reference timepiece. However, there is little doubt that some post office and rail clocks in the Vienna style such as this Wilhelm Bauer post office wall clock (below) were considered “regulators” in their day when common folk set their watches and clocks by them.
Is this Wilhelm Bauer post office clock a regulator?
The Vienna Regulator clock and its characteristics
The Vienna Regulator is a particular style of clock made in Germania or the Austrian empire. They are characterized by finely crafted (ornate at times) cases with accurate movements. While they were capable of keeping good time, they were not designed as a precision instrument and were not capable of extreme accuracy. They have some but not all the characteristics of a regulator but they are not a true regulator. While the Vienna Regulator may not be true regulator it reflected not only the style and craftsmanship of the period they were made but the quest for accuracy. No one can argue that the best workmanship and attention to detail were put into the many clocks that were produced during what some might call the pinnacle of clock design and engineering.
As much as they are called regulators the three examples presented above are not true regulators. Regulators were (are) capable of extreme accuracy for a mechanical clock and nothing I have in my collection remotely qualifies as a regulator.
However, in the world of clock collecting and repair it is perfectly acceptable to continue referring to them as regulators since they are generally accepted as such. The word regulator has become part of the lexicon of collectors even if they do not strictly fall within the definition of a true regulator clock.
My current project is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was made in Schwenningen, Germany. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.
This is Part 3.5 of a now three point five part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock.
This is Part III and a half of a series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock. In Part I described the circumstances by which I came across this clock and it’s incredible story as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion on Dec 6, 1917. In Part II I walk the reader through the servicing of the time and strike movement. In Part III I talk about the challenges of restoring the case.
I felt compelled to write Part 3.5 of the series showing the work I completed on the crown and the additional case work. I wasn’t sure how far I would go in restoring the case but the top finials are so essential to the final look of the clock that I decided to add these important elements.
The original finials might have been a little taller and wider much like the bottom centre finial
I bought three 3 and 3/4 inch finials from Timesavers. A wood lathe would have been ideal if I had one. I tried to imagine how the original finials looked and took a chance on what I felt were the most ornate without being too ostentatious. I believe they do it justice and complete the clock. The original finials might have been a little taller and wider much like the bottom centre finial but Timesavers has a rather limited selection. If I come across something closer in design in the future I can simply pull these out since they are not glued in place.
Support post for middle finial
As you can see above, I have clamped the final bases to the crown and test fit the three top finials which had just been given their first coat of stain. The support post is made of oak and anchors the crown to the case. It will eventually be screwed in place. The post not only attaches the crown to the top of the case but also supports the middle finial base (next photo).
Test fitting the top finial
The lion’s head on the crown has also been nailed in place using its existing holes.
Buttons and decorative nails
The case has an unusual number of decorative nails and buttons. Fortunately most of these decorative trim items came with the clock. Everything you see in the photo above is original save for the upper two floral brass buttons. Years of grime and dirt has been removed from the original decorative buttons, nails and pins.
Crown in place with all three new finials
The clock reflected the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) of showy complicated designs with an emphasis placed on bright and brassy surface decoration
The crown is in position although for the moment it is merely sitting in place. I have added two new decorative nails to the finial bases. Although they are not exactly in the style of the other decorative nails, they are in keeping with the period look of the clock. The two brass buttons on either side of the movement support bracket (above photo) are replacements. The buttons, nails and trim pieces on the top part of the case, are original and cleaned up nicely.
Full view of case
This is a full view of the case with all decorative nails, buttons and trim pieces attached. Below the movement support bracket and on the side columns are two half moon wood pieces (one round decorative pressed wood applique cut in half) that replicate the original detail.
The clock is very garish; some might even call it gaudy. Other clocks I have from this period (1899) are not as pretentious as this one. This look may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but it appeals to me. I am sure that it will always be an interesting conversation given its fascinating history. Overall, I would say that the clock accurately reflects the Victorian era (1837 to 1901) with showy complicated designs and an emphasis placed on bright and brassy surface decoration.
Final look with crown attached and movement installed
The above photo shows the case with movement, pendulum, face, brass bezel and hands attached. At this point the clock is about 90% complete. The final steps in this project are securing the door to the frame with hinges purchased from a supplier, attaching the door catches, installing “new” glass, applying a protective top coat finish using Minwax semi gloss wipe-on poly and finding a way to replicate a wood trim insert piece on the left column just above the rectangular brass decorative piece.
Arrow indicating missing trim piece
The clock came without the glass and it obviously must be replaced. I managed to find an old glass window in my area with sufficient “waviness” to replicate the glass at the time. I will have the glass cut and installed by a repair shop locally.
In the final analysis is this a restoration, repair or a replication?
Much of the clock is original; the movement, the pendulum, coil gong and movement bracket as are the bottom base and top part of the case and the crown, the back board, the vertical columns and most of the decorative trim. What has been replaced is the box frame and the front piece that supports the right and left columns. The previous owner used contemporary materials and techniques to reconstruct the frame and front piece. Although not authentic, I have no real objection because much of what he has done is unseen. I have added or will have added some decorative trim pieces, new glass, 3 new finials, hinges and catches, finial bases, used yellow carpenter’s glue where absolutely necessary, stained the case and will remove the rust on the coil gong.
In the final analysis is this a restoration, repair or a replication? Perhaps all three. However, to the casual observer it is an attractive albeit brash, lovingly restored antique Junghans Crispi wall clock that fell off a wall, in Halifax, Nova Scotia on that fateful day, December 6, 1917.
I hope you enjoyed the series and if you have any comments, ideas or suggestions do not hesitate to leave me a message.
This is an antique German Junghans time and strike spring driven clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It came to me as a box of parts. To some a box of clock parts and pieces is discouraging but to me it is a challenge.
Part II of a three part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock.
This is Part II of a three part series on my newly acquired Junghans Crispi wall clock. In Part I described the circumstances by which I came across this clock and it’s incredible story as a survivor of the Halifax Explosion of Dec 6, 1917.
This is a German count-wheel strike typically found in the lower lines of Mauthe, HAC and similar clocks. It is an open plate “bread and butter” movement, not of the highest of quality but well built and reliable. The count wheel is located to the rear between the plates and the mainsprings are enclosed in open barrels. There are no helper springs to worry about and all of the wheels are located in the centre and the upper side of the movement.
As you can see in the next two photos the movement was very dirty and I accepted the risk of running it for a day to see what issues might arise. I gave the pivots holes plenty of oil to mitigate any additional wear. What I found was a sticky hammer assembly that would malfunction intermittently which I attributed to dirt and grime buildup, otherwise the movement ran very well after not having run for 100 years. Imagine all that kinetic energy stored in the springs since 1917.
The movement is relatively easy to re-assemble but I had to install the lower centre wheel, the spring barrels and the centre cannon together with the top plate and then slide the gears in between the plates. Fortunately this process is not as difficult as it sounds but very different than laying the top plate right over the gears as you would in an American movement.
Very dirty movement
Mainspring barrel with years of dirt showing
I gave the pivots holes plenty of oil in the testing phase to mitigate any additional wear
Plates cleaned up well
All the wheels between the plates
I found everything within acceptable limits and decided that bushing work was not required
The accumulated grime of 100+ years came off following the ultrasonic cleaning. In fact I have never seen the ultrasonic solution so dirty. The plates cleaned up very well and I gave them an additional polishing with Brasso. After the parts came out of the ultrasonic I tested the movement for any evidence of excessive play and found everything within acceptable limits and decided that bushing work was not required. The pivot holes were pegged and the pivots were polished.
Springs were inspected, cleaned and oiled
There were no cracks or unusual issues with the mainsprings though I found it curious that they were very clean with no rust. There was also very little lubricant remaining. The springs are somewhat tired as you might expect but I think there is enough power remaining for a full cycle so I decided not to replace them at this point. I applied Keystone mainspring oil to the springs once I returned them to their barrels.
With the movement back together, it is time to adjust the strike side. The strike wheels must be set up correctly with respect to each other ensuring that the third (hammer lifting star wheel) and fourth wheels (the strike cam) align with he count wheel. The warning pin on the last wheel (which actually protrudes from the plate) has to be high enough for sufficient rotation. In order to count the strikes properly this relationship must be right. Unfortunately, I can never get this correct the first time.
The servicing of the movement is not without headaches, however.
The servicing of the movement is not without headaches, however. I bent a pivot on the warning wheel which I managed to successfully straighten out. The hammer arbor paddle was barely touching the star wheel and while trying to adjust it, I accidentally snapped it off along with the retaining spring. Although the clock will go though the strike sequence the gong will obviously not sound. I don’t have the tools to put in a new paddle so I will have to get that attended to somehow. I managed to correctly adjust the strike side but the clock mysteriously stops after about an hour or so. Something is definitely amiss and more investigation is required.
I have had more success with the case restoration that you will read about in Part III. In the meantime I have to constantly remind myself that this movement has not been running in 100 years!
I am a retired college professor based in Nova Scotia Canada, live in a little village just outside Truro and collect vintage and antique clocks that I repair and maintain. I also write about horological areas of interest and of interesting clocks and clock stories that I encounter on my travels.
In the spring of 2015 I decided to write a blog about clocks. The first few months were a struggle to decide what material would be of interest to those who not only collect antique and vintage clocks but those few with just a passing interest. As the months went by I began to realize that the world of clock collecting and repair is incredibly vast and I discovered that there is a lot for me to learn. As I expand my knowledge of clock and collecting and repair I am also realizing that there is a lot I do not know.
This blog has given me an opportunity to profile my own clock collection, walk the reader through the challenges of restoring and repairing my clocks and the learning I have gained from the experience as well as talking about horological areas of interest.
My office showing tools and my work area
Let’s review 2016.
Some statistics. As I write this article my blog has exceeded 17,000 views, 33% of which are from United States, 17% are from Canada and the remainder are from around the world including the United Kingdom, Australia, Romania, Germany, India, The Netherlands, South Africa, Malaysia and 80 other countries, even 5 visitors from Cuba (and I thought they did not have access to the internet). I receive between 40-50 comments per month on average. The top 5 articles this year were:
Mauthe Mantel Clock
Daniel Dakota Wall Clock
Sessions Westminster A Mantel Clock
Forestville Mantel Clock
U.M. Muller Box Clock
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back.
As most bloggers know the key to building a successful blog is not only attracting new visitors but keeping existing ones interested enough to come back. My visitors view an average of 1.8 articles per visit and I have 50-60 views on a typical day. I am now receiving as many views per month as I did in the first 8 months of the blog. My goal is to to provide enough stimulating content so that visitors want to return. I post 8 articles a month, usually spaced 4-5 days apart, on various topics of interest. I also attempt to appeal to all facets of clock collecting and repair from profiling my own acquisitions and experiences restoring and repairing my clocks to articles of general interest usually with some historical horological context.
Servicing an American clock, removing the time mainspring
Bushing a movement using a centering tool
I have welcomed all comments and inquiries. I have received a number of fascinating comments from people who typically ask me how much their clock is worth, particular problems they have with their clock, information about the history of their clock and suggestions for improving my workflow. I answer all questions to the best of my ability but I make no pretense that I am a trained professional though my general knowledge of clock collecting and repair is growing exponentially. I have also received comments from those who more knowledgeable than I am and I welcome their expertise and perspective. I especially welcome the wisdom and insights from popular commenters such as JC and Catalin at Blog Timbrofil.
Regulator weights
If you are a regular reader you will continue to see a number of what I hope are interesting clock articles in the months to come
Now it is time to look to 2017. My intent is to write interesting articles about clocks in general as well as continuing to profile my modest but expanding collection of antique and vintage clocks. I also intend to explore special areas of interest particularly my growing fascination with lantern clocks and crystal regulators. If you are a regular reader you will continue to see a number of what I hope are interesting clock articles in the months to come.
Stay tuned and if there is an area of interest you would like to see me to explore, drop me a quick note.
The world is changing and sadly, we are living in an increasingly throw-away society. We are taught at an early age that not many things are meant to last and using a throw-away product “guarantees” that the new product will function much better, but does it? I read a news article recently that Norway plans to introduce lower taxes on items that have been renewed or refurbished encouraging its citizens to reuse rather than dispose. Many would consider it a small but important step. It prompted me to write this article.
Here are 9 reasons why you should buy a mechanical clock.
1) Great for the environment. Clocks do not depend on electricity. We all agree that cutting your carbon footprint is always a good thing. Yes, you might think that a quartz clock is great for the environment since it lasts a long time and is both dependable and reliable when the power goes out but what happens when that battery fails. Where does that battery go? The landfill site, of course! Think about it, every part of mechanical clock is fully recyclable, the wood, the metal and the glass.
2) Prompts you to reconsider our disposable society: We are living in an increasingly disposable society. Collecting antique clocks may cause you to think about how you view other things in life, your place as a consumer in our society and how you can do your little bit to further the cause of preserving our environment. In this age of excessive over consumption it is refreshing that some things like a clock can be re-used, repaired and renewed.
One-weight Vienna miniature wall clock, unmarked, circa 1870
3) Great in a power outage; During power outages your mechanical clock will keep on ticking. And tick it will as long as you wind it regularly. And during that power failure you will also notice that the only thing you will hear will be the sound of your ticking clock above the eerie silence of the house.
4) Exercises the brain; Your curiosity about a particular clock might prompt you to research it’s history, or the era that the clock was made. Or, curiosity has led you to maintaining your own clocks. No one can argue that expanding your knowledge of mechanical things, learning new skill-sets, exploring new areas of interest, and learning something from the past is great for healthy brain development.
Learning to bush a clock plate
5) When it breaks it is something you can actually fix: When it breaks you fix it rather than throwing it out which you would likely do for most other items around your home. That means learning new skills when fixing it yourself or helping the local economy by buying repair tools/equipment or searching out a clock repair person (horologist) in your community.
6) An heirloom; pass it on to your children. Clocks are memories by association. Children love receiving clocks from their parents not only because of their collectible and intrinsic value but as a keepsake, a reminder of good times and happy memories. Yes, they are timeless gifts!
Gustav Becker, a retirement gift that I will pass on to my children
7) A soothing sound in a room. Intoxicating to some, annoying to others. Some clocks have beautiful tones and melodies. I always ask guests who stay over whether they mind a clock ticking in their bedroom. A striking or chiming clock might be considered an annoyance when one is not accustomed to the sound. If they suggest stopping the clock I always comply without question. The exception, of course, is the anniversary clock which emits no sound whatsoever. My sister has a number of vintage and antique clocks, she has very little idea how they work but loves the look and the sounds they make.
You would have to have exceptional powers to hear this 400 day clock in any room
8) Gets you out of the house; My wife and I are into antiquing and that means getting in the car and driving around our beautiful province. We get some exercise, discover new places, meet new people, exchange stories and bring back memorable articles including our cherished clocks.
9) A conversation starter; It is a conversation starter; I have two clocks that are over 140 years old and many that are at least 100 years old. Can’t think of a thing to say when company is over? Well, I can tell you fascinating stories about many of my clocks. I often tell stories of our clock hunting adventures throughout Nova Scotia and other parts of Canada and some of the characters we meet along the way.
Go out and buy a mechanical clock! Clocks are not only good for the environment but they are good for the soul.
When I first started clock collecting and repair many people said to me, stay as far away as you can from those darned Chinese wall clocks. They are garbage! They have thin plates, are cheaply made with many stamped parts and they explode without warning. Not true! Oh, yes, they have thin plates and many stamped parts but they are actually quite reliable and don’t normally explode.
When I first heard the name Daniel Dakota many years ago I thought it must be some long established American company with a proud First Nations heritage. Whoa, was I wrong! It is a Chinese company and Daniel Dakota is a actually a registered trademark. This wonderful sounding American name no doubt eased this Chinese company’s penetration into the American market with tens of thousands of inexpensively made clocks that anyone could afford. Thousands of them are still working to this day despite the fact that many have never been serviced, a testament to just how tough they are.
The best thing about a Daniel Dakota clock is that you can pick one up for almost nothing. A barely running 1930s German box clock might set you back two or three hundred dollars but a perfectly preserved 1960s Chinese wall clock with “real wood” can be had for less than $50. I have two. I paid less than $40 for one and had the second one was given to me.
Of course, some folks think they are worth as much as a quality German antique clock. They often advertise them as antiques. Take these two ads on a online for-sale site?
“Original Daniel Dakota 1960-70 antique 31-day winding clock perfect condition. Elegant design with brass hands and pendulum. Comes with original key. Selling to people with taste $300”.
Well, people with taste and any knowledge of vintage/antique clocks would certainly pass on this one. This next ad is for a clock that is exactly like the one in the following photo.
“Beautifully Crafted Wood Pendulum Clock. Chimes on Hour & Once on the Half-Hour. Includes Winding Key.31 Day.Keeps perfect time, nice sounding chimes. Asking $250.00”
Daniel Dakota time and strike, sticker on bottom left says, “real wood”
I could go on and on. I see these ads almost every day. Yes, they are pretty and very plentiful but they are certainly not quality clocks. Do they last? If you take the time to service a 1960s or 1970s vintage mechanical one, thoroughly clean it and oil it, the clock will give you years of faithful service. It might not be the prettiest or the most accurate clock in your home but it is both reliable and dependable. The workmanship is, well, Chinese, which means that it is reasonably well put together (with real wood!) but there is zero evidence that a skilled craftsman spent hours toiling over your clock.
Daniel Dakota 31 day time and strike, my office clock
One feature I really like is winding the clock. Which way do I turn the key? Well, if you have a Daniel Dakota clock you can find little arrows which indicate the direction to turn the key above the winding arbours. What could go wrong!
Unless you know how to service your Daniel Dakota clock you might be deeply disappointed if you bring it in to a clock repair person (horologist). Many will refuse to touch it. I think it’s a snob thing. They will take one look at your prized clock, look at you sympathetically and say,
“it will cost far more than it’s worth to repair”
“I can’t get the parts”, or
“Would you like me to put a quartz movement in it?”
I have taken apart my two Daniel Dakota clocks many times. They have provided me with an excellent learning experience and they are a great entry point into the world of mechanical clocks because, well, if you make a mistake you can always salvage the parts for another or toss it out without feeling you’ve lost much on your investment. However, I doubt that I will acquire more Daniel Dakota clocks despite the fact that I like them. I will keep the two I have knowing that if I had to sell them I would get absolutely nothing for them and that’s perfectly fine with me.
My quest for a one-weight Vienna Regulator ended this past week and I am now in possession of a miniature rather than a traditional antique Vienna wall clock. Here are first impressions back in 2016.
Top showing face, hands and crown detail
This attractive unmarked Vienna Regulator one-weight (time-only) clock is 34 inches long 4.75 inches deep and 11 inches at it’s widest point and 8.5 inches at the waist. There are no markings on the movement. My research tells me that very few Austrian clocks have markings on the back plates. There are indications that the lines and style suggest Austro-Hungary, about 1870. The maker, however is unknown.
I believe that this clock is a transitional clock that forms the link between the simplicity of the earlier styles and the extravagance of the latter. Where the earlier pieces rarely have columns on the side of the door, the transitional clocks have either broken columns (tops and bottoms of columns with hanging finials) or slender, elegant columns. In comparison, the hallmarks of the Alt Deutsch clocks were full, and typically fluted columns with Corinthian pediments and rectangular panels at the base. The four-posted keyhole mounts were common throughout the transitional period. Most dials are two-piece porcelain with spun-brass bezels.
Transitional Vienna Regulators typically have wooden pendulum rods and brass bobs with zinc backs. The cases were typically made with walnut, cherry and other fruit wood veneers. There are not as many ebonized or faux (false-grained) finishes in the transitional style cases.
one-weight Vienna wall clock
Grain in two directions
This is a high quality clock housed in a beautiful walnut wood veneered case. The case is in excellent condition save for a few scratches near the door catch from the small brass hook moving back and forth and two small pieces of veneer missing on the uppermost right side that are not visible when looking at the clock head on.
The case is adorned with an attractive crown that is part of the clock unlike similar clocks that have removable toppers. Two finials finish the top. The finals do not appear to be original but are consistent with the style and age of the clock. The twin pillared tapered columns on either side start at the top and narrow towards the bottom of the case, an unusual feature and evidence of skilled craftsmanship. Curiously the left corner rectangular column piece is slightly longer than the right piece. The case is correctly finished on the bottom with a middle and corner finials. On the sides are two brass screws (or standoffs) for leveling adjustment.
One of two standoffs
Bottom finial is notched
Top finials originally might have been larger
Inside the case is a porcelain beat scale and large pendulum. All of the glass is original and in good shape. The interior glass clips used to secure the glass to the inside of the frame appear to be a later addition. The front glass which shows characteristic waviness and small imperfections are consistent with the age of the clock.
Bottom showing beat plate and finial detail, notice waviness of glass
Bottom finials
The simplicity of the time-only movement is what makes them last so long and remain easy to maintain. The four-posted key-hole mount is typical of a Germanic or Austrian clock. The Graham deadbeat escapement assures accurate timekeeping.
Four-posted key-hole mount
Side view of movement showing deadbeat escapement and gear train
Escapement
Escapement closeup
Case showing mounting bracket and suspension spring slot
Back board
The brass weight is hung from a brass pulley by mean of catgut cable. The dial is a two piece porcelain with inner and outer brass bezels surrounded by roman numerals with bold but delicately styled hands. The winding arbour is framed in brass. There is some crazing on the dial consistent with aging.
Slight crazing on the porcelain dial
The original clock key is a winding type with wooden handle.
Winding crank
There are stylistic elements that suggest that the clock is Germanic or Austrian such as the elaborate clock hands, the tapered pillars, and integrated crown. So, is this clock a Germanic, Austrian or Austro-Hungarian regulator? I am very pleased with my purchase and I believe that I bought a quality clock that, according to my research, was made in or about 1870. If you know the answer or can point me in the right direction I can be one step closer to solving this mystery.
I had a discussion with David, a horologist acquaintance who is currently working on my 138 year old Ingraham Huron mantel clock (pictured above) about clock repairs in days gone by. He said he had happened to have a conversation a few days ago with an 82 year friend who had been in the clock repair business most of his life who said that times were very different in the “olden days”.
Imagine a Canadian home in the 1920s or the 1930s. In those days a clock was like a refrigerator or a washing machine; it was an appliance. The clock was generally inexpensive and purchased for one reason, to tell the time. Quite often it was the only timekeeping device in the home for common folk. Despite the fact that they were relatively poor timekeepers, people in those days did not demand accuracy in a clock, not like today. If it was correct within a minute or two a week that was just fine. Not only was the clock cheap, it was sturdy, functional and withstood a certain amount of abuse. My Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, for instance, sold for $5 when it was new in 1912. Five dollars was a lot of money when the average person such as a a railway employee might have made $662 a year or about $12.75 per week, but the home had to have a clock.
This Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock sold for $5 in 1912
There was always someone in the community that tinkered with clocks and for very little money, or a trade for services, the “appliance” was repaired and promptly returned to it’s owner. The tinkerer was usually someone who fixed things in their spare time rather than fix clocks as a profession. In larger urban centres clock repair persons (trained horologists) set up professional shops but in rural Nova Scotia those services were expensive and few and far between.
When the day came and the clock stopped running, it had to be fixed, and quickly. Often the request was, “just make it work”. The repair did not have to be pretty so long as the clock functioned and the cost of the repair was reasonable. Specialized clock tools were expensive and difficult to acquire so the tinkerer relied on tools they had lying around in the garage or the basement; a hammer, a pair of pliers, a punch, a file, a screwdriver and so on. The self-trained tinkerer did the best he could to make his neighbours’ clocks run often using questionable methods. Since brass bushings were not available the tinkerer would use a punch to close a pivot hole. In the 1940s when the soldering gun was commercially available and inexpensive, it too was added to the toolkit and often a piece of brass was soldered (or riveted) to the plate to accommodate a new pivot hole. They might also soak the movement in a bucket of gasoline overnight and then oil it with something like 3-in-1 oil. Sometimes this would be enough to clean out the gunk and allow the clock to run again, the costumer would be happy because their clock came back working and the tinkerer would charge very little for their “services”. The clock was not worth a great deal and the customer would not have had the money to pay a professional anyway. Common short-term solutions such as these often led to more frequent repairs and eventually replacement of the clock.
In the 1930s the synchronous electric clock began to replace the mechanical clock. Yet, homeowners in the rural areas who had no electricity hung on to them and kept them running, but eventually the electric clock gradually replaced the mechanical clock. Although, many of those old clocks were trashed, sent to the garage, the basement, or the attic, some were passed down to family members and are cherished keepsakes to this day. Not long after, the tinkerers in many communities began to disappear.
Today we covet our prized antique and vintage clocks that adorn our homes. When they are ticking away we marvel at the inventors and innovators of the past and when we want that certain clock, cost is no object. To repair them we employ all manner of modern technology; bushing machines, broaches, special files, clamps, spring winders and lathes to ensure that the “job is done right”, the clocks end up lasting years and are “better than ever”. But it was not always like that.
We look down upon those tinkerers of the past and the repairs they made without really understanding what it was like during those times. “What butcher worked on this?” I hear some people saying. Well, I have said it myself, but after talking to David I now have a better understanding of the clock tinkerers of past and the important work they did for their communities.
I have in my collection an unsigned 8-day carriage clock in a moulded rectangular brass case. This attractive little clock has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals, blued steel hands and a spring driven movement with platform lever escapement visible through the top beveled glass. The moulded brass case has beveled glass panels on all sides complete with a fold-down travel handle and two sided key.
Next to a Sessions Beveled No. 2
Although my knowledge of carriage clocks is somewhat limited, searching the origin of the carriage clock on the net reveals that this type of clock was a very popular item for well-to-do travelers in days gone by. Carriage clocks were spring driven clocks popular in the late 19th and early 20th century designed for travel. It’s golden age was somewhere between 1860 and 1900. The first carriage clock made by Abraham Louis Breguet was designed exclusively for Emperor Napoleon of France in 1812. More information about this fine inventor and horologist can be found here. Many came with a sturdy leather carrying case with one hinged panel that opened to check the time. Mine came without one.
The movement plates in my clock are secured by screws rather than pins suggesting that it was made at a later period. This clock would have been produced for the English market since it has “S”and “F” stamped on the escapement. If one assumes that the key which has “France” inscribed on it is original, then the clock is French. There are no markings on the outside of the clock save for the number “73” stamped twice on the inside access door and once on the bottom of the carrying handle. There are numbers visible on the inside of the plates that I can barely see but once I get the clock apart I can determine if they mean anything and report in a subsequent blog entry if I find anything of significance.
It’s diminutive size, 3 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches tall (without the handle) and 2 1/2 inches deep makes it exceptionally portable. If it is to be displayed on a mantel, a shelf or a desk, it is small enough to be placed anywhere in the home without dominating a room.
The balance and spring-driven platform jeweled escapement that comprised the working mechanism of the carriage clock made it ideal for transportation. The fact that it needed to be transported means it was more robust in dealing with jostling and movement than any other type of clock in it’s day. They were built to last which is why so many of them survive in very good condition to this day. Many had time and strike mechanisms, some with a repeater function, but this is a simpler time-only version.
Back plate showing winding arbour and lever for speed adjustment, with verdigris present
I managed to revitalize the case as you can see in the first two photos. However, the back plate shows a significant amount of oxidization though one hopes that the movement itself is in good condition. This oxidation is called Verdigris. Verdigris is a bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate.
Although the clock came to me in running condition the movement is very dirty and requires disassembly and a thorough cleaning. I am encouraged by the fact that the clock ran through an eight day cycle so I must assume that the jewels in the escapement are in good condition. Repairing jeweled escapements is not something I can do at this stage.
At the moment I see two issues with my clock. One, there is a small break in the lower corner of the beveled glass on the left side which is barely visible and two, the pull handle on the access door is slightly bent. There may be other issues once I get it apart but we’ll cross that bridge when it comes. I might even find that missing piece of beveled glass trapped somewhere in the movement.
During my research concerning the repair and servicing of carriage clocks I have discovered that letting down the mainspring is critical prior to disassembling. I read about a case where the platform escapement was taken off without letting down the mainspring and the result was the contrate wheel (having teeth that are at right angles to the plane of rotation) below the escapement was seriously damaged. I want to avoid that.
At the moment I have too many other clock projects on the go. However, in the meantime, that won’t keep me from displaying this beautifully crafted timepiece in a prominent location.
In a future blog I will report on the steps I will take to bring this clock to a healthy running condition.
Once a year we travel to central Canada and since I am always on the lookout for clocks when I am on the road, they can show up in the strangest of places.
Snider starburst clock found in a boutique hotel in Quebec City
We stopped a a boutique hotel in downtown Quebec City and came across this Snider Starburst clock in the dining area. Many folks do not realize that Snider clocks are distinctively Canadian. According to the Canadian Clock Museum, “the Snider Clock Corporation, was set up in 1950 by Harry Snider, who operated a wholesale jeweler business on Yonge Street at the time. The company name was changed in 1957 to the Snider Clock Mfg Co. Limited. Over a period of more than twenty-five years until 1976 there were hundreds of models of Snider mantel, TV lamp, and wall clocks designed and manufactured in Toronto”.
In the same boutique hotel beside the Snider clock was a wine vending machine. How cool is that!
Wine vending machine
Hugh Gordon tall-case clock circa 1760
This fine looking Scottish Hugh Gordon tall-case clock located in a home near Montreal, was made somewhere between 1760 and 1770. The clock is majestic and certainly defines the room though I wish it were in my room! The cabinet is in excellent condition but the movement requires attention that can only be provided by professional horologist.
Smiths Enfield Art Deco style mantel clock circa 1949
I like the lines of this clock. In fact, I liked it so much that I bought it. This Smiths Enfield Art Deco clock was discovered at this antique shop in Haliburton, Ontario and it has become our newest cottage clock.
Haliburton antique shop
Smiths Enfield shelf clock, on a shelf
Sessions six pillar mantel clock
I am not a fan of pillar clocks although I do have a couple. This six pillar Sessions time and strike seems to be in good shape though the dial may need replacing or restoration. Some would leave it as-is. I am personally not a fan of replacing a dial but if the numbers are unreadable it can be an option.
Unknown mantel clock, possibly French
What is it? Is it French, is it British? Could even be American. There are no markings on the dial face. I am leaning towards French.
Kienzle World Time clock circa 1950
I saw this in an antique store and hummed and hawed over whether I should buy it or not. We were with friends and they loved it. I thought about it, went back a week later, made an offer and now it is sitting on a buffet at home. It works well, runs a full eight days but has a jeweled movement which concerns me. I am not comfortable having this clock run continuously until I know how to service it. Heck I can’t even find a way to open it up to inspect it. For the moment I will run it only on special occasions until my skill level improves enough to allow me to investigate further.
Possibly Ansonia or another French mantel clock
The above clock, another find in an antique store is possibly French or American. I believe Ansonia made clocks very similar to this. I am going to call it an Ansonia.
Collection of beehive, six pillar Seth Thomas and Waterbury wall clock
A Seth Thomas Beehive and a Waterbury time and strike wall clock. Both are in very good condition but a tad on the pricey side.
My wife took a quick cell phone shot of this clock in another antique shop. Not the best image.
Kienzle Winchester Chime
It is a Kienzle 3-train German clock and no matter how hard I look I cannot find another like it. Could be a one-of. If you know anything about it please drop me a line.
That’s about it. I found another tall-case clock in a restaurant in Quebec City. It looked like a combination of several clocks although the cabinet was nice. So, somebody messed with it. Should have taken a photo!
I have related the story of this most interesting Ingraham Huron mantel clock in an earlier blog which you can read about here. I purchased it at what I believe was a reasonable price from an older couple near Bridgewater, Nova Scotia who were in the midst of downsizing. It had been in their family for a very long time and although it was cherished for many years it was time to let it go.
Because it is such a unique design you don’t often see this style of clock in any of the antique stores and they rarely come up at the finer online auction houses. The last one I saw on EBay sold for US895.00 a year and a half ago.
The case is actually in very good condition for a 138 year old clock but the movement suffered at the hands of a butcher. The clock will run for about 2-3 days on a full wind and then stop. Nudging the pendulum will get it going again but only for about a couple of hours. To anyone who knows anything about clocks there is an serious power loss in the movement and it is not difficult to determine why once you see the photos. After taking the face off there is little to indicate that there are any issues with this clock.
Front of the movement
However, as you can see in the next four photos there are some interesting issues with the movement which undoubtedly contribute to it’s poor running. In the first photo you can see that the escape wheel arbour is at an extreme angle relative to the other arbours. In the next three photos arrows are pointing to solder that was used to “correct” various problems with the movement. The result is that although the clock will operate for a period of time on a full wind, it cannot and will not run the full 8-day cycle.
The escape wheel is at a precarious angle
A new pivot hole has been made and a lantern gear “repaired”
The first arrow shows an addition to the plate, the second a “new” pivot hole
A solder “fix” for the fan
Is this a repair job or a restoration? I brought it in to a certified horologist nearby who said that in situations such as this if the movement is likely beyond repair he recommends to the customer that the movement be replaced with a period movement correct for the clock. He agrees with me that this movement must stay with the clock to preserve it’s provenance and it’s authenticity, therefore restoration for this antique clock is required.
Why am I not doing this myself? Many of the clocks I have worked on require minimal adjustment/repair to get them to run reliably again and I am still in a learning phase. I have disassembled many clocks, cleaned them and even installed/replaced bushings but this is a job that must be left to someone who is familiar with clocks that have had very poor repairs such as this one.
It will take two or three months but at the end of the day this will be a properly restored timepiece. Once I get it back I will report on the steps it took to restore this clock.
In Maritime Canada, this weekend marks the time to turn the clocks back. We have a saying, “Spring forward, fall behind,” which refers to the switch from Atlantic Daylight Savings Time (DST) to Standard Time on November 6th, moving the clocks back by one hour. As a result, we gain “an extra hour of daylight” in the morning, which is beneficial for farmers, I suppose. In the spring, the clocks are moved ahead again. However, not all regions in Canada observe DST.
Kienzle World Time clock
Not many people realize that Sir Sandford Fleming, a Canadian engineer and inventor, proposed Standard time and world wide time zones. Although he was born in Scotland he immigrated to Canada at the age of 14. In his later years he was employed by the Grand Trunk Railway which led him on the path to standardized time zones for the railway.
I decided to dedicate this blog to Standard Time and the many idioms and expressions with the word “clock” in them.
The clock is ticking
Beat the clock
Turn the clock back
Wind back the clock
Run out (or down) the clock
A stopped clock is correct twice a day
Clean (someone’s) clock
On the clock
Biological clock is ticking
Watch the clock
He’s (she’s) a clock watcher
Punch the clock
Around the clock
Stop the clock!
Race against the clock
As regular as clockwork (or, running like clockwork)
Face that could stop a clock
Five o’clock shadow
Hickory dickory dock the mouse went up the clock
One, two, three o’clock four o’clock rock
Rock around the clock
Let me know if I missed anything, and I’ll be happy to make adjustments.
After not having visited my sister in some time I was surprised to find that she is an avid clock collector. I must stress the word collector because although she appreciates the beauty of each clock she has acquired over the years how they run is somewhat of a mystery to her and that is just fine. While visiting her this summer three of her clocks were out of adjustment and it took no time (no pun intended) at all to get them running again. No sense paying someone to do it, that`s what brothers are for.
In my opinion the most interesting clock she has is a French time and strike bracket clock that has no visible markings yet appears to be over 100 years old. It is in beautiful condition with only a slight patina on the finish. I would love to have found out more about this clock but my stay was brief. Perhaps next time.
French bracket clock
The next clock is one my sister absolutely loves and it is a great sounding Westminster chime grandmother clock she bought some 20+ years ago. This quarter chime clock made by Craftline Industries in the early 1990s has a Canadian made case with a German movement, likely by Hermle.
Craftline grandmother clock
Next is a curiosity. When I saw the Sessions name on the dial I wondered why I had not seen this particular style of Sessions clock. Further investigation revealed it to be a six pillar Adamantine Seth Thomas case. The movement was clearly marked ST and as I said the case is certainly a Seth Thomas. So, why the Sessions clock face? Likely the original dial face was so badly marred as to be unreadable that the owner many years ago simply told the clock repair person to find another face, which he did. Since the replacement was a Sessions electric clock face he had to drills the holes to accommodate the winding arbors. Who would know! To those less knowledgeable it looks great.
Sessions / Seth Thomas mantel clock
I found this little antique time-only Hamilton and Co. French-style carriage clock made in India (Calcutta) to be very interesting and so diminutive. Hamilton and Co. is probably the best known and most celebrated British clock maker in India. I would put this clock at around the 1890s. It probably needs a good cleaning since it is not in working order.
Hamilton and Co. Calcutta
I am not a huge fan of steeple clocks but this Waterbury clock is in very good condition save for a damaged right steeple tip. The Waterbury Clock Company is one of many 19th century Connecticut-based clock firms with a history going back to the 1850s though it closed is doors for good in 1944. More memorable are Waterbury wall and mantel clocks but like many makers of the day they had a successful line of steeple clocks.
Waterbury steeple clock
Next is a New Haven time and strike tambour style mantel clock from about the late 1920s or early 1930s. Aside from the grandmother clock which my sister bought new the New Haven mantel clock was a wedding gift of her late husband’s parents and has been in the family ever since.
New Haven Mantel clock
Lastly, this Chelsea ship’s bell clock is a polished beauty. A ship’s bell is used to indicate the time aboard a ship and hence to regulate the sailors’ duty watches. Unlike normal clock bells, the strikes of the bell do not correspond to the number of the hour. Instead, there are eight bells, one for each half-hour of a four-hour watch. Three bells, for example, would mean that a sailor would be 1 1/2 hours into a 4 hour watch. Each watch would take its turn with the essential activities of manning the ship’s helm, navigating and keeping a lookout.
Chelsea ship’s bell clock
I was quite impressed with my sister`s collection and each clock occupies a special place in her home. I find it facinating going into peoples homes and discovering the joy they experience in collecting, be it clocks in this case or anything for that matter. Collectors are truly unique people!
Hugh Gordon, clock-maker worked in Aberdeen, Scotland from 1748-90. He had previously worked in Edinburgh and London. Although a very proficient maker little of his work seems to have survived.
Hugh Gordon tall-case clock
This is a friend’s clock and I was asked to research it. Unfortunately, I have discovered very little so far.
Hugh Gordon tall-case clock
This time and strike clock is an excellent example of Scottish style and was likely made between 1760 to 1770 judging by the design of the spandrels.
Hugh Gordon face, hands and spandrels
Hugh Gordon pagoda hood and face
It features a second hand just below the 12 o’clock position and a single date aperture just beneath the hour pipe. It is a nicely proportioned clock with a tall centre throat and pagoda-styled top bonnet; the centre engraving is a typical feature of the Scottish clocks of the latter part of the 18th century as is the box calendar opening (date aperture), side glass on either side of the hood and doped canvas top cover. These clocks are not overly tall at about 7′.
It is missing three finials; one on top and on the left and right front corners. The mounting holes were evidently covered up by a later canvas re-application. The chapter ring and dial centre would have been silvered at one time and rubbed clean by over-polishing through the years. The hour hand looks correct but the original minute hand would have had a serpentine design in keeping with the hour hand.
Hugh Gordon face and hands
This clock has been in my friend’s family since 1850 having been brought over by ship when his ancestors immigrated to Canada. It has survived quite well and it has been well taken care of.
It is not in running order. I suggested that my friend seek a clock repair person (horologist) who is knowledgeable in the repair of antique tall-case clocks particularly with clocks of this era as special care and attention is required if parts need to be rebuilt/repaired to remain consistent with the period.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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