In January 2017 I took a chance, plunked down $75 and bought a project clock which consisted of a box of clock parts.
Junghans clock in pieces (notice bottom finial)
I took it home, stared at the box for a while trying to figure out what to do and how far I would get with this project. I itemized the parts, arranging them on the case as best I could and put together a plan. At least I had something to go on when someone sent me the actual catalog image of the clock.
The clock is called the Crispi by Junghans, Ca. 1899. Junghans is a reputable German clock-maker that made all styles of clocks for over 100 years in Germany and continues in the watch business to this day.
There are subtle differences between my clock and the clock in the catalog but to the untrained eye it looks much the same.
What I did not change at the time was the bottom centre finial. Most who are familiar with clock case design would agree that the bottom centre finial is actually one of the top crown finials and was re-positioned in a previous repair. I left it as-is as I went about restoring the rest of the clock.
After completing a number of other clock projects during the Pandemic as well as addressing an errant strike issue with this clock, I decided it was time to replace the finial with something more in keeping with the original design.
Here is the clock (next photo) when I finished with the case. That bottom centre finial always bothered me but, as I said, I let it be.
This is a clock that I took to a professional clockmaker to have repaired in the days when I did not have the skills to service a clock.
It worked well for about two years or more and then the strike side became very erratic. It would either strike incorrectly on the half hour or strike until the mainspring wound down. I cannot blame the repairer as these movements can be finicky to work on but my knowledge of clock repair has improved such that I can better diagnose and repair most clock issues today.
The problem was twofold. One, the paddle was not quite in the correct position in the deep slot of the count wheel at the end of the strike and the strike paddle ended the strike sequence by hanging off one of the star points of the strike wheel.
It took several attempts through trial and error but eventually I was victorious and the movement now strikes correctly.
Top finial placed on the bottom by a past repairer
Now, let’s get back to the case. As you can see the clock had been returned to its former glory and is quite faithful to the original except for that bottom finial.
I chose a flat back unfinished 2 1/2″ by 2 3/4″ hardwood finial that is available from most clock parts suppliers. I matched the stain to the case and applied three coats of shellac. Using a drill press I made a hole to accommodate a piece of dowel in the base and finial to secure it to the lower base section. I applied yellow carpenters glue to secure it and here is the result. The cost to rectify it was minimal.
The shape, size and style is now appropriately suited to the case.
The seller had the clock in his family for many years, perhaps as long as the clock is old. Anyway, he would not budge from the $75 but he asked me to send a photo of the clock when it was completed. I did, and received no acknowledgement. I don’t think he ever thought it would look quite like this.
The Fleet Time Co. was a short-lived Canadian clock company that operated between the years 1936 and 1940 producing a range of two and three-train mantel clocks with movements sourced from Germany. All clocks had pendulums and were spring-driven. According to the Canadian Clock Museum in Deep River, Ontario, the company was listed as an importer of clocks and watches. The locations were 440 McGill and then 303 St. Paul West, Montreal (Canada).
The Second World War took a heavy toll on this company as the source of movements dried up and so the future prospects of this small company. Why they did not source movements from France and Germany like the Forestville Clock Co. of Toronto and others during the war years and beyond is anyone’s guess. Perhaps the margins were slim or alternate suppliers could not be found. That and the increasingly popular electric clock doomed the company.
Wood cases were made in Canada for some models while other cabinets were imported from Germany.
Of the two Fleet clocks in my collection one is this two-train clock with an unknown German movement and the other a Westminster chime mantel clock with a German Gufa movement. For more on the Gufa clock go here.
This clock is in much the same condition as my first Fleet clock, dents, gouges and scratches everywhere. Unfortunately, the tinted lacquer finishes on these old clocks do not survive well over time. It is one reason they attract little attention and sell for almost nothing despite having movements that are relatively strong runners.
Fleet Time time and strike mantel clock, broken glass
It is a plain, generic mantel clock with a walnut finish, flat front, a slightly domed top, and step-side features on outboard feet. The dial is heavily tarnished and the glass bezel that should be soldered to the chapter ring has detached. These bezels often go missing. At least it came with the clock.
Fleet time movement
The clock strikes on 3-rods producing a bim-bam sound, just loud enough so as not to be too intrusive.
The location of the star striking wheel on the movement is somewhat unusual. Commonly found between the plates, the star wheel is on the outside of the rear plate.
Damaged Fleet Time barrel
As I have said in a previous articlethe barrel and second wheel on the time side were damaged during servicing. I don’t know who the maker is and I would appreciate any information to aid me in my search for a donor movement. The case has been reconditioned, with the addition of a dial and bezel from an old Blackforest Clock Co. clock.
Fleet Time case ready for repaired or replaced movement
It is a nice piece of Canadian horological history that I would like to see running.
I originally assumed this clock was a Seth Thomas since it had a Seth Thomas movement. After a thorough search on the web, I concluded that this was not a Seth Thomas case. I searched for clocks made by other clockmakers, starting with E.N Welch, Ansonia (because it is similar in style to the Syria), Gilbert, Sessions and finally Waterbury. The term “Waterbury cabinet clock” generated some hits. I found one on an auction site then, two more. I now have a case made by a different maker than the movement and in clock circles this is called a marriage.
The case is a Waterbury model called the “Wren”. I found three Wren models, two with paper dials and one with the identical dial pan as this clock. It may well be that this dial pan is original to the case.
Despite the fact that it is a marriage I might keep it. The case is attractive and the movement fits the case, although both the centre hole and regulator hole over the 12 look to have been bored out and not in a tidy way.
The dial has been cleaned and repainted.
Cleaned and repainted dial
Now to the case. It Stands 13 1/8″ Tall By 12 5/8″ Wide And 5 1/2″ deep. As of this writing if you search for this model you might see one or two without the top crown. It is easily detached and no surprise that it might go missing.
Crooked finial
The case is in good shape with no parts missing however, the top finial on the right is not correctly aligned with the bottom column which I did not notice till I began cleaning the case. Evidently it had detached in the past and a past repairer glued it back not noticing the misalignment. It was simple matter of prying the finial off, regluing and centering it.
Two other pieces had to be reglued, a support piece for the crown and crosspiece in the back for one of the sides of the crown.
I cleaned the case with Murphy’s soap and following the scrubbing I decided that there was enough shellac worn off that a fresh coat would make the case much more appealing.
Finial is reattached and straighter
New coat of shellac
I applied traditional shellac, mixing amber flakes and alcohol with a broad artists brush. In the next shot you can see the difference between the left side of the crown and the right. I now have the option of leaving the finish as-is or aging it by “dulling” it with 4X0 steel wool.
Crown section
In the next photo is the completed case.
To me it is a huge improvement.
All this is being done while the movement is undergoing testing and once the testing is complete the two, the case and the movement will be “married” again.
Now if I can find the matching glass and bezel it will be complete.
It might sound a little strange to use a paint roller on a clock dial. This is not just any paint roller but one specifically designed for the purpose. The candidate is a embossed dial pan for a Waterbury Wren shelf clock C.1895.
Most of the paint has been rubbed off the dial over the years which you can see in the photo below.
Should the dial be left as-is or retouched? It is an age-old clockmaker’s dilemma. We all have our views but I tend to take the position that if it is grimy and unsightly and takes away from the look of the clock it should be cleaned and retouched.
I decided to start from scratch. I knew that if I immersed the dial in my ultrasonic cleaner with the heat setting on I would risk stripping away all paint from the numbers and that is exactly what happened.
The cleaning also took off a thick layer of grime and dirt leaving a much brighter dial.
Dial as found
Hand painting is an art and a steady hand means the difference between a homemade job and one close to the original factory application. I used a multi surface water-based acrylic satin black paint, one I often use for clock dials, hands and so on.
Here is the dial just out of the ultrasonic cleaner. All paint has been released from the embossed areas. The ultrasonic solution was black and had to be discarded.
The paint roller is made out of 18 gauge wire and masking tape, specifically made for this job. I added a strip of double-sided tape to the roller to allow a rough surface so that the paint could adhere.
A homemade paint roller
The roller worked reasonably well over the embossed dial and it was certainly a lot faster than hand painting. Excess paint was removed from the dial with a Q-tip and toothpick.
Using a Q-tip to clean excess paint
I used the roller for the chapter ring as well. After rolling there were some touch-ups and an artists brush #2-0 was used for areas the roller could not reach.
Artist’s brush
I allowed the paint to dry and scraped off the excess.
Inpainting nearly complete
I am very pleased with the results. Here is a before and after shot of the dial.
BeforeMovement yet to be installed
It is not factory perfect but from a reasonable viewing distance it is difficult to tell it was repainted plus, it looks much more presentable.
Now, to find a 5 1/2 inch bezel and glass to complement the dial.
About a year ago I picked up two clocks. I had my eye on one, an Arthur Pequegnat Canuck shelf clock, and the other was “thrown in” as part of the deal. We completed the transaction on the Pequegnat clock and the seller asked me if I wouldn’t mind looking at a mantel clock stored on a shelf in his garage. He said, “for $10 more you can have this”. I did not know the make at the time but for $10, why not! It was in sad condition as you can see in the next photo.
Fleet clock with a worn finish
A tin plate affixed on the back of the clock told me what it was made by the Fleet Time Company of Montreal (Canada).
Many of these clocks were sold at department stores across Canada during the pre-war (WWII) era. However, this little-known Canadian clock company had a brief life span. Between 1936 and 1940 the company produced a range of two and three-train mantel clocks with movements sourced from Germany but were forced to end their operations when the war began.
Fleet Time Co. label
The Second World War took a heavy toll on this company as the source of movements dried up and so did the company’s fortunes.
Wood cases were made in Canada for some models while other cabinets were imported from Germany.
Servicing the movement
I had completed work on the case a few months ago and now it is time to service the movement.
3 train Fleet movement by Gufa
The clock has a Gufa Westminster chime movement. Gufa is the Guetenbacher Uhrenfabrik, located in Gütenbach, Germany. They manufactured 400-day clocks, cuckoo-clocks and later they became the “Jahresuhrenfabrik” (August Schatz & Sons in Triberg, Germany). Gufa is not a name horologists come across very often in North American. There is a chime gear patent date number ending in 34 which likely refers to the year 1934 indicating manufacture between 1935 and 1939. It is a solid, well-built movement.
Assessment of the movement
I had replaced the time mainspring shortly after I bought the clock but I knew that I would eventually have the movement on the workbench. As is typical of German clocks of this period in that the mainspring barrels can be removed without dismantling the movement, so, replacing the time mainspring was an easy fix.
The clock was running, though not well. On the fourth or fifth day, the chimes (and strike) would stop though the time train would soldier on a few days more. Wear issues on the strike and chime train had to be addressed.
I disassembled the movement, put the parts into the ultrasonic cleaner, and discovered afterwards that the plates had been lacquered. With the ultrasonic heat setting on, the lacquer stripped off but not uniformly. As it is a $10 clock I am not concerned about aesthetics.
Fleet movement wheels tied together according to location
To eliminate the chance that I would mix up the wheels for the 3 trains, I tied each set together. Once out of the ultrasonic cleaner I untied them and placed them in their respective trays. Westminster chime movements have similar-looking gears in the three trains and it is best to separate them to avoid frustration during re-assembly.
After inspecting the movement I determined that new bushings were required on the second wheels plus the motion works arbour. Three of the second wheels on the backplate, one bushing for the strike side second wheel front plate, and one for the motion works for a total of 5 new bushings; not bad for a 3-train movement. These are the typical wear points on three-train movements as the second wheels handle the greatest load.
Bushing work
Once the pivot holes were pegged out and the wheels rechecked in their locations, the bushing begins. Aside from the second wheels, most other pivot holes were in good shape. I don’t often use bushings with an outside diameter of 4.50mm but this movement required 4 in total. All bushings had to be reamed out with a cutting broach followed by a smoothing broach. All wheels were test fit with the plates together and things looked good.
Reassembly
Next is reassembly. With so many wheels it is a bit trickier than a two-train movement but it is important to work slowly and carefully to avoid a bent pivot. Once the wheels are positioned, test each train to check that everything is in place. After the nuts are tightened, the remaining parts such as the locking plate, chime locking lever, warning lever, rack snail, mainspring barrels and so on are installed/attached.
Testing
Of all movements, three trains are the most difficult to set up correctly. Although all three trains spin independently they are interconnected by levers. In order for everything to function in unison, careful attention must be paid to the job of each lever, what it does and how it performs its function every 15 minutes.
Gufa movement, front plate showing rack, snail, levers, and so on
Everything went fairly smoothly. Both the strike side and chime side go into warning as they should, the locking plate stops the chime at each quarter-hour including the hour, which is a good sign the locking hook on the chime train is in the correct position.
Gufa movement on the test stand
The chime strike lever is, however, sticking on the strike warning pin. Without taking the movement apart I used 1600 grit memory paper to smooth the hook end surface where it meets the strike warning wheel pin. The polishing allowed it to function a little better but continued testing revealed that that solution did not work. I finally had to remove the chime strike lever and polish the hook. the polishing was successful.
The next issue is the strike paddle which is ending the strike sequence hanging off one of the star points. The plates on the strike side must be opened up and the paddle repositioned. For safety reasons and to preserve the mechanism should things go awry, the power is let down on all mainsprings. Adjustments such as these come with the territory as nothing should be expected to work perfectly the first time.
Gufa movement, the upper wheel is the main chime wheel
After the aforementioned adjustments are made, next is the chime sequence and that means loosening the set screw for the main chime wheel and rotating the drum till the quarter strike is at the 1-2-3-4, the beginning of the sequence.
Once the adjustments have been made it is back to the test stand.
Okay, my strike paddle adjustment did not work but in the meantime, the testing of the movement proceeded and everything looks very good at this point. I will give it a few days and return to re-adjusting that paddle.
Everything is working now.
I’ll be honest, 3 train movements are not my favorite type to work on for 4 reasons. One, they often need major work only after a few years. Secondly, it is often not enough to install new bushings for worn pivot holes lower in the trains but to address other worn holes up the trains, as well. Thirdly, they are labour intensive and finally, except for modern movements, parts are almost impossible to find.
In many cases, certainly as far as a modern Hermle is concerned, it is often more cost-effective to simply replace the movement rather than repair it.
If you are a collector or simply have a general interest in mechanical clocks and wish to sell antique and/or vintage clocks then, read on. I am not a seller but I purchase clocks to build my collection.
I occasionally sell clocks locally as a way to manage my collection. Most of the clocks I’ve sold have been serviced by me, and my main goal is to recover the time spent on cleaning and repairs, rather than promoting sales on my blog.
Mauthe buffet clock C. 1950
The Difference between Antique and Vintage
Let’s begin with definitions. Antique is anything over 100 years old and vintage is less than 100 years but more than 30 years old. Anything that is less than 30 years old may be considered vintage but more often it is called collectible. Try to pass off a 30-year-old clock as an antique and you will turn off a lot of prospective buyers.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock C.1870
Clock Terms
When selling a mantel clock, it’s important to use ‘mantel,’ not ‘mantle.’ A mantel refers to a shelf or structure, while a mantle is something one wears. Using the correct terminology also signals that you have a deeper knowledge of clocks than the average person.
A clock with two winding points (with some exceptions) is typically referred to as a striking clock, which strikes but does not ‘chime.’ A chiming clock usually plays a quarter-hour melody, such as Westminster or Whittington, and often has three winding points (though there are exceptions). There is no such thing as a ‘Tempus Fugit’ clock; ‘Tempus Fugit’ simply means ‘time flies in Latin.
A grandfather clock is a clock that stands 6 feet or taller and is not a wall clock. A grandmother clock is a floor clock that measures less than 6 feet in height. Grandfather clocks are also known as tall-case clocks, longcase clocks, or hall clocks.
Gingerbread and parlour clocks are distinct in design, but both are typically classified as kitchen clocks.
There are many other styles but let’s leave it at that.
Honesty and Disclosure
In my view, the most important element in selling a clock is honesty.
Inform the prospective buyer by describing as much detail as possible about the clock without getting too wordy. A clock that is a marriage, a case with a similar but replacement movement, should be stated as such. Replacement glass, newer dial, replacement crowns and finials, case repairs, or full case restoration should also be disclosed, perhaps not immediately in your ad but as a follow-up.
If the clock is running and was recently serviced by a competent repair person, state such in your ad. If the clock is running but the movement requires cleaning it should be stated as such. If it is not running explain why and what issues it might have such as a broken mainspring, missing pendulum bob, missing winding key, and so on. If you don’t know why it is not running, say so but be honest about it.
If you’re selling a clock and don’t know much about it, be honest and say so. Similarly, if you’re selling clocks in general but lack knowledge about them, it’s better to be transparent about that as well.
If your clock is rare, indicate why it is rare and support your claim with credible documentation including its provenance.
E. Ingraham shelf clock C.1878, not rare but uncommon
Establishing a Value
Research auction prices to get a feel for the value of similar clocks that are offered for sale and the price realized. Sources are Kijiji, Facebook Marketplace, eBay, and any number of respectable auction houses.
There will be a range of prices and something in the middle of the range is a good guide though its condition will determine what people expect to pay.
Determining the condition of a clock is an important factor in evaluating its value. The clock’s overall appearance, functionality, and any repairs or restorations it has undergone will all impact its worth. A clock in poor condition generally has a lower value than one in excellent condition, as potential buyers may factor in the cost and effort required to restore it.
Know that a clock is only worth as much as someone will pay. If you price your clock too high you will know it soon enough.
Rare and desirable clocks, as well as clocks with an interesting provenance, will command higher prices.
Clocks also vary in price according to the geographic location where they are sold. Generally, clocks that are made in the same location as the clock is sold will command higher prices. English and German bracket clocks are not as popular in America as they are in Europe and are priced accordingly.
Preparations for Sale
A clock in running condition will fetch a higher price than one that is not. A professionally serviced clock in excellent running order will command an even higher price. A clock case cleaned of grime will present better than a dirty one. Missing hands or dial glass will adversely affect the price. Items such as these can be replaced and parts are available from clock suppliers but it becomes an extra cost for the buyer and for many, it is a deal-breaker.
If you are handy at clock repair, servicing the movement or any case repairs will enhance the value of the clock you are selling. If you have serviced a clock, always be clear about the work you’ve done. Describe in detail the specific repairs, cleaning, or adjustments you’ve made to the movement, as well as any parts that were replaced or restored.
This transparency not only helps potential buyers understand the value of the clock but also assures them that the clock is in good working condition. Whether it’s oiling, replacing worn parts, or correcting any mechanical issues, providing this information builds trust and demonstrates your expertise.
The term servicing has many definitions. Be wary as sellers may claim a clock has been serviced if the only thing done to it is oiling. Among reputable clock repairers, servicing is defined as, taking the movement out of its case, disassembling the movement, cleaning the parts, addressing wear issues/repairs/parts replacement, reassembly, oiling, and testing before reinstalling it back into the case.
Sessions Raven time and strike shelf clock
Visual Presentation
While few cell phones (though some are improving) can capture highly detailed images of a clock, they often suffice for many purposes. However, blurry or out-of-focus photos are unacceptable.
Smiths Enfield mantel clock serviced and ready for its new owner
Several images from different angles as well as a photo of the inside of the clock case are much more helpful than one photo. During the daylight, place the clock near a window and position yourself between the window and the clock to take a series of photos in natural light. If there is damage or wear take close-up photos of those areas.
In general, a dedicated camera with artificial light will produce better results than a cell phone camera.
Clock Description
Crafting an ad is an art in itself. You must be concise and accurate and not overly wordy. There is a balance between too little and too much information. Less information means fewer inquiries from prospective buyers. Too much information with technical terms will turn off prospective buyers. Try to anticipate the questions prospective buyers might have in order to limit the number of follow-up queries.
State the clock’s maker if known, the model if possible, the year it was made, the type, (time-only, time and strike, chiming clock), the style of clock (mantel, wall, shelf, parlour, Ogee, tall-case, etc.). as well as any interesting features, for example, a steeple clock with an alarm function or a clock with a second’s hand. Along with your description state the approximate age. If you do not know, a picture of the maker’s mark on the dial or the movement will assist prospective buyers.
While it’s not necessary to give a reason for selling, doing so can sometimes enhance the ad.
1860s era Seth Thomas column and cornice shelf clock
Where to Advertize
There are a number of ways to sell a clock. Facebook Marketplace is very popular. Other local online for-sale sites, eBay, flea markets, consignment shops, and auction houses are popular places to sell a clock. Setting up an account for most online sites is a pre-requisite but there is usually no cost.
Mauthe wall clock circa 1899
Example of a Poor Ad
Antique clock, comes with key, $250
Example of an Eye-catching Ad
Scaling down my collection. Antique German time and strike clock made by Friedrich Mauthe, circa 1899. Completely serviced in 2019 which includes disassembly and addressing worn parts. Original glass, mild refresh of the case, new wall stabilizers, and new arch piece. Ran for many years in a family home in Parsboro, Nova Scotia. Runs well and keeps good time, original key supplied. $250
Juba Schatz time and strike mantel clock
Final Remarks
While selling a clock can be a frustrating experience, it can also be quite satisfying. I choose to sell locally to avoid shipping costs and the risk of items arriving damaged. Meeting the buyer in person allows me to answer any questions they may have and provide a more personal experience.
Though this is not a definitive guide to selling, I hope these pointers and ideas will help when you decide to sell (or buy) your antique or vintage mechanical clock.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face, a clock you would like me to profile, my advice on your particular clock concern or a general clock question. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
CL writes:
“Hi Ron,
I was hoping you could help me identify a clock I purchased at an estate sale this weekend for $10. The back of the wall pendulum clock has a intact paper label with a full size standing Ostrich and the letters H H S N. Stamped on the workings is 45/100 and 27583 It is a 4 chime clock.
That is all of the identifying marks.
Any information you have would be helpful.
I did find one post on a site called Worth Point about a clock that had HHS N (Hermann Heinrich Straussj of Nurenberg)
STORAGE AUCTION FIND IN UNIT I WON IN AUCTION! If you search journeymagazine on eBay’s Discussion boards under Watches, Clocks & Timepieces I asked about this antique clock movement with the initials HHS N – and got 2 responses. First is a link that shows HHS N is a very rare clock movement that was part of the historical clock & watch exhibition in Nuremberg 1905 (Below)The 2nd is a link to a Mauthe that had HHS N clock movement in it.A VERY RARE CLOCK MOVEMENT FOR THE COLLECTOR OUT THERE!NOTE: I don’t have a key + I don’t know clock movements, so I don’t know if it works – Ask Any Questions or for more Photos – SOLD AS IS!FROM LINK GIVEN ME ON DISCUSSION BOARD: H.H.S.N. was a mark for the firm of Herm.[ann] Heinr.[ich] Strau [ =ss], of N rnberg. The only information in Abeler’s _Meister der Uhrmacherkunst_, the standard ref. for clockmakers in the German speaking tradions, is “erw. Hist. Uhrenauustell., N rnberg 1905.” In other words, they were mentioned in some connection with the historical clock & watch exhibition in N that year (in celebration of the 400th anniversary of the invention of the pocket watch (so they said) by Peter Henlein aka Petrus Hele. There were lots of firms represented, new and old clocks exhbited, etc. There’s a dozen or so small-print pages on this exhibition in several issues of the 1905 _
Thanks for your time.”
My reply:
“Hi CL
Thank you for coming to my blog.
This is a German “box” clock style from the late 1920s. The letters HHSN stand for Hermann-Heinrich Strauss, Nürnberg. Strauss in German means Ostrich. This company were clock dealers who are thought to have used Mauthe movements (and others) in their clocks. They went out of business in the late 1920s. Your clock could have been made by almost any of the big German firms at the time, Mauthe, Kienzle, Junghans etc. The movement looks like a Mauthe and that makes perfect sense. 45 refers to the length in centimetres of the pendulum (17.7 inches) while the number 100 refers to the beats per minute. 27583 is a production number and the first two digits are likely the year the clock was made.
4 -rods mean the movement will produce a very nice bim-bam strike if the hammers are aligned correctly on each of the strike rods.
It is a clock worth preserving and a steal for the price you paid.
Hope this helps
Ron”
CL replies:
“Ron,
Thank you for this knowledge! I appreciate the quick reply. I look forward to getting it cleaned and hung on our wall.”
This is the model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert called a Normandy Chime in its sales catalog. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. The “Normandy Chime” was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France.
Gilbert tambour clock
In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.
The movement has been serviced
Clocks such as this that have not seen servicing in many years fail because of a combination of bushing wear and old oil buildup.
The movement was cleaned, the mainsprings serviced, pivots polished, 5 bushings installed to address wear issues and tested prior to returning it to its case.
Gilbert movement with a date stamp of 1925
The door catch
Although serviced well over a year ago I never got around to repairing the door catch. I could not figure out a way to make an effective catch and I don’t think the solution I came up with is the best possible one.
Now, you might think, why is this such a big deal? It’s not, but without the catch the door pops open a little and will not stay closed, enough to annoy the heck out of me.
Brass tab fashioned into a catch
The solution, for now, is a brass tab with a hole drilled through it to accommodate one of the bezel screws. It is not perfect but allows the door to close securely.
Front glass and bezel of Gilbert clock
I have no idea what the original catch looked like but evidently it was a poor enough design that it broke at some point in the clock’s history.
The clock is promised as a gift and now I am now assured that everything works properly.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from you, the reader, concerning your clock, issues you might have had, challenges you face, a clock you would like me to profile, my advice on your particular clock concern or a general clock question. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
Clock for sale
MB wrote
“Hi Ron,
I came across this clock and your blog and have fell in love with it. I want to put a bid on it but have no idea what it is worth. Could you give me your opinion please?”
I am not sure whether they fell in love with the clock or my blog!
I replied,
Attached photo
Hi and thanks for writing.
The clock you wish to bid on appears to be American-made and from the 1990s. Let me point out some factors to consider.
If the clock is from the 1990s, the movement (the mechanical works) have reached the end of its service life. Typically movements from this era have a life span of about 25 years. If it is a non-working clock, it is worn out. If it is a working clock there is not much time left on the movement. Regardless, to service or replace the movement would be in the order of $450 to $500. If it has been recently serviced (disassembled, wear issues addressed, repairs made, reassembled, tested and oiled) or the movement has been replaced with a new one, that is a big plus.
From the photo I would question why the weights are at different levels. In a working clock the three weights descend together (with slight variations) through the clock’s 8-day cycle. See attached photo (right).
Many years ago it was not unusual to spend $2000 to $3000 for one of these clocks when new. Today they are worth almost nothing. The fact that this clock appears to be in a basement or garage does not bode well for its condition. The photo is not very clear but I can see wear around the base of the clock and it may even be missing the bottommost pedestal (which might be concealed by something in front of it) which also begs the question: what else is missing?
A similar clock in excellent condition with a recently serviced movement would be in the $500 price range.
A clock, such as this, that has never been serviced whether working or not would be in the $100 – $125 price range but be prepared to spend more money on it unless you can do the repairs yourself.
MB writes back,
“Thank you so much! They did indicate that the pendulum isn’t working so I guess I will stay away.
I appreciate your detailed answer and for saving me from what sounds like it could have been a waste.
How far do you go repairing, restoring or conserving a vintage or antique clock without changing it in a significant way?
My daughter. a civil engineer raised the philosophical argument that questions whether an object like a clock that has had all of its components replaced remains fundamentally the same object. This paradoxical thought exercise is called the Ship of Theseus. Plutarch, a Greek philosopher, asked whether a ship that had been restored by replacing every single wooden part remained the same ship.
The ship wherein Theseus and the youth of Athens returned from Crete had thirty oars, and was preserved by the Athenians down even to the time of Demetrius Phalereus, for they took away the old planks as they decayed, putting in new and stronger timber in their places, in so much that this ship became a standing example among the philosophers, for the logical question of things that grow; one side holding that the ship remained the same, and the other contending that it was not the same. Plutarch, Theseus[2]
Think about it! If something is fundamentally changed is it the same object?
One of our proud provincial symbols in Nova Scotia is a sailing ship called the Bluenose II, our provincial ambassador. The original Bluenose was a fishing and racing schooner that ran aground and sank 90 years ago. To honour the original Bluenose, the Bluenose II was built in the 1960s and sailed for over 50 years until it was determined that she was not seaworthy.
Bluenose II, Peggy’s Cove (photo, NS government, used for educational purposes)
In 2018 the hull of the Bluenose II was rebuilt with new materials. Some items such as rigging, masts, sails, ironwork, deck structures, safety equipment, and electronics were reused. Part of the timeline for future repair involves replacing the masts, sails, rigging, and deck structures. Will the ship retain its identity? To purists, no! To Nova Scotians, yes!
Let’s go beyond the nautical example and apply our example to the lantern clock.
The lantern clock is a clock with a lantern-shaped brass case made for about a century after 1630 or so. Most had one hand, all were weight-driven with a bell on top and sat on a wall bracket. They were the first type of clock widely used in English private homes in the 17th century. Eventually, the lantern clock became obsolete when tall case clocks came into fashion.
Converted lantern clock
Lantern clocks are highly collectible today and those that are in “original” condition are the most desirable. But, almost all of them have been altered, even those considered “genuine”. Check out this quote from a sellerof lantern clocks, D. and J. Benson, who are specialists in early English clocks.
We are strong believers that if a clock was converted to a different escapement many years ago, this should be retained, being part of the history of the clock, rather than reconverting clocks back to former guises. Only under compelling circumstances would a clock be returned to a former state. Only absolutely necessary restoration work is carried out in order that the original clock survives for future generations. We conserve rather than replace. D& J Benson
“Compelling circumstances”. Important provenance, perhaps?
Early conversions were from verge to anchor escapement. Later ones had the original movements removed and a fusee movement (single or double) installed. When converted, original movements including alarm mechanisms were taken out, a single-hand was replaced with two hands (or the minute hand added), broken finals and door handles might have replaced, chapter rings re-silvered, doors lost due to their nature of lifting out easily. Therefore, what is the nature of the clock after it has been changed, and how original is it? Does it retain its identity? To purists, no! To the casual collector, yes!
Let’s see how this philosophical argument plays out:
If too much is done to restore a clock is it fundamentally the same and is it considered original even though new parts were made from the same materials using the same methods when the clock was first made?
Do changes or alterations to the clock that bring it back to its original look and function including the making of new parts make it more “original”?
If one replaces one part at a time on a clock so that at some point all parts are replaced, at what point does a clock no longer become the same clock?
If you take all of those parts and make a “new” clock which of the two clocks is original? What is the nature of the clock’s identity since no two objects can occupy the same identity?
This is the dilemma of identity. One more example!
In 2016 I acquired my first weight-driven Vienna Regulator clock. As I worked on the clock I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years such as the brass bezel, hands, glass panels, weights, and even the movement. Although the changes were part of the history of the clock I began to accept the notion that it is what it is and to a casual observer, it looks authentic.
Gustav Becker Vienna Regulator
Minimal Invasive Intervention
The term minimal invasive intervention means how far do you go to repair, restore or conserve a clock without changing it in a significant way? Some say that any work performed on an antique clock would diminish its value. Going too far to repair a clock and it begins to lose its attraction and value as a collectable object.
Is a “true collector” more interested in a movement that has never been worked on or one that has been repaired or restored? While it is always desirable to have a running clock most concede that to make a movement actually work, intervention must be accepted (bushing and pivot reconstruction, for example). The question remains; if I want the clock to function, what is the least I can do without changing it in a significant way?
Repair, Restoration, Conservation
Repair; to rectify the faults of a clock in a way that might alter it from its original form (gear replacement, pivot work, bushing work, replacement of some parts)
Restoration; the reconstruction of the movement and clock case to original condition.
Conservation; the protection of a clock using any methods that prove effective in keeping that article in as close to its original condition as possible for as long as possible.
Any amount of intervention is frowned upon by some collectors while some amount of intervention is not only necessary but desired by others and while collectors are always searching for a completely untouched clock, an antique clock in pristine condition that has never been meddled with is a rare find.
Questions, questions, questions…
Is undoing the “damage” caused by a previous poor repair an overly invasive procedure?
If the repair was done shortly after the clock was made and it was a proper repair, was clearly documented as markings inside the clock case, should it be left untouched? (example, a wheel that has a rough tooth repair but functions well). Is the poor repair part of the clock’s historical provenance and should it be left as-is?
Would bringing the movement back to its original state be considered a restoration or a repair?
Will a repair enhance or decrease the value of the clock?
Is a repair or restoration a form of conservation?
My position regarding changes to a clock
My goal is a functional clock that presents well. A non-working clock must become a working clock because that is the nature of its existence. If a clock has important provenance and extensive repairs to the movement and/or case alter it in a negative way and I will leave it alone. But I will always clean a clock case (unless otherwise directed) because as one clockmaker I know put it, “isn’t patina just another word for dirt!”.
When working on a customer’s clock I recommend presenting several options regarding the repair of the movement and addressing case issues. This past year I worked on a customer clock and asked what they wanted to be done. It had a beautifully designed case but a non-functioning movement. Make the clock run they said and replace the broken hands but don’t touch the case even though in my view the case could have used a good cleaning and a fresh coat of shellac. I did what was requested. Is the customer right? Yes!
I will leave you with two examples.
Ingraham Grecian
Ingraham Grecian
The bob wire that came with a clock appears to be a section of coat hanger wire. Replace it with a proper adjustable bob wire?
On a movement with pinned plates one of the pins is a finishing nail. Replace it with a brass taper pin?
Hell, yes on both counts!
In some circles, this trivial examples like these will provoke a heated argument. Is there a correct answer? Put twelve clockmakers in a room and you will have a thirteen opinions.
7 reasons why a hobby such as clockmaking gives respite during a pandemic.
Builds self-esteem. Developing and maintaining a hobby is important because the small successes from day to day are enough to sustain oneself amid other pressures in life and it is the one solid thing to feel good about. It gives renewed energy to tackle other challenges in life.
Dial face, Scottish tall case clock C.1848
Avoid boredom. There is zero scientific evidence of this but boredom is responsible for a lot of society’s ills and destructive behaviours. Do you come home after a challenging workday to watch hours of TV when you could be doing something constructive and rewarding? If so, it is time to re-evaluate your life.
Junghans Sydney shelf clock C.1911
Enrich your perspective. There is an old adage: “The more you know, the more you grow”. Any opportunity to learn something new, to be challenged anew, is great for character-building by seeing the world through refreshed eyes. Clockmaking or any hobby helps one differentiate from others and provides key examples of overcoming adversity or tackling a difficult situation and emerging on the other side.
American Watch and Clock Collectors Museum, USA
Keeps you youthful. Establishing and maintaining a hobby is a healthy habit to form not just now but for your later years. Hobbies are excellent for brain health and help stave off cognitive decline. The older you become the more difficulty you will have struggling to fill your time with meaningful activities. Beginning a hobby early in life pays dividends in the long run much like an interest-bearing investment.
Schatz W3 bracket clock C. 1950s
Combine your hobby with other interests. Photography and traveling are two other of my interests. Blogging is another, of course. Clockmaking combines all of those interests and as a side benefit my wife, who is also my travel partner and clock locator, provides encouragement every day.
Westclox LaSalle alarm clock C. 1934
It makes one interesting. Talk about your occupation or your grandchild and before long people’s eyes begin to glaze, but mention a clock that fell off a wall during the Halifax Explosion, a clock that hung in a railway station nearby, a rare clock bought for next to nothing and ears perk up.
Junghans Crispi wall clock, C.1898
A great way to relieve stress. Hobbies provide stress relief simply because it is an oasis, a way of disconnecting temporarily and we all need a place of refuge in trying times.
Mauthe wall clock circa 1895
We are nearing the end of the pandemic and folks are returning to their former routines. If you have found a new hobby in the past year there is no doubt you have certainly acquired new skills, renewed confidence and furthered your knowledge. Don’t stop now!
Servicing the movement is complete. Next is the case.
For those unfamiliar with the HAC acronym, it stands for Hamburg American Clock Company, a well-known German company that was acquired by Junghans in the late 1920s. I have a number of German clocks including Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection. This clock dates to somewhere between 1900 and 1908.
Here is the auction photo of the clock.
HAC mantel clock (reproduced with permission)
As you can see there is some wear as expected from a 100+-year-old clock. The dial is especially grimy.
I focused on the dial first, managing to remove most of the grime while retaining its patina. Plus I touched up the numbers and chapter ring. There were numerous scratch marks on the dial surround and I did my best to clean it up and make it more presentable but it is what it is. Check out this article for more information on cleaning the dial.
HAC clock is attractive but the dial required a lot of work
Stripping a case is always the last resort in my view. There is visible wear on the bottom corners, the lower part of the columns, and column capitals but not enough to justify removing the finish.
I cleaned the case with Murphy’s soap, applied 2 coats of shellac using 4X0 steel wool between coats followed by a coat of Minwax finishing wax.
HAC mantel clock
Better but not perfect but perfect was never my goal. Now, where to put it?
The movement has been serviced and the next step to bringing this clock back to life is cleaning a very grimy, tarnished and worn dial.
For those unfamiliar with HAC or, The Hamburg American Clock Company (Hamburg Amerikanische Uhrenfabrik), it is a well-known German company that was incorporated in 1876 as Landenburger and Lang, later with a name change to HAC in 1883 and was eventually acquired by Junghans in 1926.
Its best-known trademark is the “crossed arrows” symbol found on the movement plate and the coil gong. Unlike most HAC clocks there is no cross arrows trademark on the gong though there is one on the movement behind the pendulum rod. The name “Hamburg” was chosen at the insistence of one of its investors and “American” refers to similar American-style production methods.
I have a number of German clocks including Junghans, Mauthe, Hermle, Jauch, Gufa, and Gustav Becker but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.
HAC clock auction photo
I bought this clock online at an estate auction in February of 2021 and because of the pandemic I had it shipped to me. The only thing I had to go on were the auction photos but it is no different than taking a chance on an eBay or similar site. Once I opened the package it is what I excepted, no surprises.
While it is an attractive design it is dirty and likely has never been cleaned. There are no parts missing, a bonus, but the case and dial require attention.
The most distracting element is the dial. In short, it is a mess.
HAC dial closeup
Two options
One is to replace the dial from a donor clock but given the small amount of money put into it, the fix would have been pricey. Those I have found in my internet search are going for more than I paid for it. The second option is to clean it up and make it as presentable as possible.
Cleaning the dial
Normally I use a good water-based cleaner to remove grime from a dial but in this case, the blackish-grey tinge you see in the above photo is actually 100 years of built-up oil, grease and grime. I am sure an auto mechanic owned the clock and adjusted it before he washed his hands.
Drastic measures are called for. I knew that I would be stripping the remainder of the cream-coloured paint from the dial but as I discovered, there is so little paint left that it would not have made a difference. The numbers were also rubbed away after years of use.
HAC clock is attractive but the dial needs a lot of work
I took the dial out of the case and using Q-tips and a cleaning solution took away as much grime as possible. Some 50 Q-tips later I managed to remove most of the dirt. After rinsing with water and wiping the dial, I filled in the numbers using water-based acrylic black paint, a fine-tipped artist’s brush, and a fine-tipped .6mm permanent marker for the chapter ring.
HAC dial after cleaning and numbers touched up
The dial came out marginally better and the original patina has been somewhat retained. I am pleased with the result but that is as far as I will go.
From a distance, it is presentable and less distracting.
Eight years ago I acquired my first Arthur Pequegnat clock. In the years following, I have added to my collection and now have a total of 8. Although my collection of Pequegnat clocks is very modest by comparison to a dedicated Pequegant collector it is a good start and I would certainly like to add to that number in the future.
The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company (1904–1941) is notable as the longest-lasting Canadian-based clock manufacturer. They made a wide variety of different styled clocks from 1904 through to 1941 from shelf and mantel clocks to wall clocks and floor models.
Nickle-plated steel or brass plates
Unfortunately, it is very difficult to date a Pequegnat clock, except for what is termed pre and post-Berlin, the location of the company’s manufacturing plant. Clocks made before 1917 were inscribed “Berlin, Canada” on the dial face. Kitchener, Ontario was known as Berlin prior to and during the first World War. It was the town of Berlin from 1854 until 1912 then the City of Berlin from 1912 until 1916.
Because the name Berlin was associated with the war against Germany the town fathers decided the name Kitchener was less offensive and the change was made midway through the First World War. Kitchener is the present seat of the Regional Municipality of Waterloo, Ontario, Canada.
Most Arthur Pequegant clock movements are stamped with the company name but there are no date marks on movements indicating when it was made. Clocks made after the First War wore the company name plus Canada under the number 6 on the dial face. For example, clocks such at the Canadian Time were made from 1904 to 1941 and are separated in age by the Berlin label consequently, my Canadian Time wall clock with the Canada label could be as old as 104 or as “new” as 80 years old.
One distinctive feature on many movements is the use of nickel plating for both brass and steel plates.
Arthur Pequegnat Company name
Many models continued in production right up to 1941. By 1941, the demands of World War II armament makers for brass, the essential ingredient in clock movements as well as the growing popularity of the electric clock, forced the Arthur Pequegnat company to cease production.
And now, beginning with the first clock acquired in 2013.
The Canadian Time
My first Pequegant, purchased in September 2013 hung in the Intercolonial Rail Station waiting room in Pictou, Nova Scotia.
Canadian Time
The seller arranged the purchase of the clock just prior to the station’s decommissioning in 1993. It is in very good condition, missing its door clasp but otherwise intact. There are a few scratches and nicks consistent with its age but nothing objectionable.
The Brandon (2nd edititon)
I found this clock in an antique shop just outside Truro, Nova Scotia in 2014.
Arthur Pequegant Brandon II
The case is in excellent condition but the movement was quite worn. Had I known more about servicing clocks at the time of purchase I would not have sent it to a clock repair specialist. It is one of two in my Pequegant collection serviced by someone other than myself. This is the Brandon II. The Brandon 1, the first edition, was made prior to 1918, and had an ornate pressed wood bezel. This one is simpler in design.
The Maple Leaf “Fan-top”
Next came my first Maple Leaf kitchen clock, known for its unique lower tablet of scattered maple leaves and a distinctive maple leaf pendulum.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf kitchen clock
This clock, bought in 2015, was also serviced by a clock professional. The case was in very poor condition. Stripping a case is an absolute last resort as far as I’m concerned but the finish on this clock was pretty bad. I could not leave it as it was.
The finish on a Pequegnat fan-top clock
To Pequegnat collectors, it is known as the fan-top.
The Simcoe
Three years later, the Simcoe followed me home. It was bought at an antique shop in Victoria, British Columbia in 2018.
Arthur Pequegnat Simcoe mantel clock
It is not particularly attractive. It is the only mantel clock in my Pequegnat collection and it is from the “Berlin” period.
The Bedford
2018 was a good year because I acquired 4 Pequegnat clocks. This was number two of that year.
Bedford shelf clock
This clock was gifted to me by a reader. He asked if I wanted the clock but I had to pick it up in Quebec which was on our way to a summer cottage in central Canada. The movement was in very good condition but the case was damaged having taken a plunge off a high shelf.
The movement was serviced without issue but the case required extensive intervention.
The third purchase that year and the fifth in my collection is the Maple Leaf Pointed Top
The Maple Leaf “Pointed Top”
There are 4 Maple Leaf clocks made by Pequegnat. Any version of the Maple Leaf is sought after by Canadian collectors but this one has distinctive pointed side columns, hence the nickname.
Arthur Pequegnat Maple Leaf Pointed Top
Although termed a kitchen clock it could easily have been placed in a living room or parlour.
The Moncton
The last 2018 acquisition was a clock that I had in the back of my mind for quite some time and I was waiting for the right price. This is an excellent copy that is very presentable and looks great on our kitchen wall.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton
It is a post-Berlin double spring time-only 15-day clock. Many were used in rail stations despite the fact that they were spring-driven. Weight-driven clocks were preferred for their accuracy but the Moncton was up to the task as a timekeeper.
And the last.
The Canuck
This is the only true Pequegant “gingerbread” clock in my view.
Canuck kitchen clock
The case was refreshed and the dial was redone. The movement was also serviced without issue.
Cleaned up more presentable
These are all keepers. Most Pequegants have kept their value over the years and in Canada, they are regarded as quality clocks for the masses. They were well built, well-designed movements with a distinctive Canadian charm as many were named after cities in Canada.
I want to share my experiences dealing with clock suppliers and let me begin by saying that my experiences have been largely positive.
I have been repairing and restoring clocks for the past 10 years and since I live in Canada I generally deal with one mechanical clock parts supplier out of Toronto, Ontario, Perrin. They are excellent for most of my needs, but they do not have everything and from time to time I must locate special or unique parts through other suppliers such as Merritts, Timesavers, and Ronell from the USA and Meadows and Passmorein England.
For example, I recently completed the restoration of an Ingraham Grecian shelf clock, circa 1871, and it required a new set of hands. The hour hand that came with the clock was too short and the minute hand was the incorrect style. My goal in this case is a clock that is as authentic looking as possible and incorrect hands always takes away from a clocks appearance.
My Canadian supplier did not have the correct hands and eventually my search brought me to an out-of-country supplier, Timesavers.
Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo
Ingraham Grecian with correct sized moon hands
Had I ordered just a set of hands the shipping cost would have been substantial.
In order to justify the purchase I added additional parts; 2 smoothing broaches, a Seth Thomas #2maintaining spring, brass weight cable, a riffler set, and a bob wire set. The total came to $36US. The shipping and processing fee is $24US. Factoring in the rate of exchange the order cost me $82CDN.
If my Canadian supplier had everything I needed the cost would have been $20 less. It was not a significant difference in this case but it was worth it to find the correct hands.
What are the costs?
The sourcing of parts from various suppliers especially outside Canada can be expensive when administrative costs, shipping fees, exchange rates and import duty are included.
Some suppliers, however, require a minimum order. Others apply a credit card fee for international transactions, still others apply a processing fee and occasionally there is import duty. In almost every case the cost is higher and in some cases, it may not be worth it.
There are a number of choices for shipping but the cheapest method is not always “cheap”. Ground shipping in Canada is fairly inexpensive. Many out-of-country suppliers ship by air and the cost can be significantly higher.
That little $2.99 part can easily cost $20 or more after all costs.
Parts Availability
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
Not every supplier is going to have what you want. There are similarities from one supplier to another but there are also differences. For example, one is likely to find brass carriage clock feet from an English supplier because bracket and carriage clocks are much more common in that part of the world. English suppliers will also carry more tall case, and carriage clock parts and obviously, American suppliers will have many parts for clocks made in the USA.
The upside is that by knowing the various suppliers and their inventories I am able to satisfy most of my clock parts needs. If I only need one part I will always add additional items to justify the shipping and other costs.
My strategy for sourcing parts
If I were in the clock business and required one part, I would pass all costs on to the customer. I do not run a repair service and can afford to put a project aside if it needs parts and wait till I can justify an order.
I build a list of parts using an Excel spreadsheet, and when I feel there is enough to justify an order I pull the trigger. I can afford to wait.
As far as prices are concerned, companies such as Timesavers in the US have locked in their prices till 2022 while prices for some items at Perrin, a Canadian supplier, have increased marginally in the past year. Still, I buy Canadian when I can.
When ordering, if there is an offer of a free parts catalogue I always ask for one.
I also take advantage of every opportunity when I find pendulums, clock keys and other sundry items in flea markets and antique shops and snap them up, IF the price is less than I would buy from a supplier.
Clock parts are not cheap. If you are looking at clockmaking as a hobby factor in the cost of basic and more advanced tools but know that consumables can cost much more in the long run.
From my experience, most suppliers are excellent to deal with are and the service is speedy and professional. Just be mindful of all those other fees. It can really add up!
Clock collecting from a beginner’s perspective. That was the subject of my first blog post six years ago. Since then I have seen a lot of excellent and not-so-good blogs come and go but I wanted to give it my best shot and after 6 years, well, I am still here.
I started with a free WordPress plan, moved to a personal plan and then, this year, to a Premium plan. I now permit advertising on my site but my only goal is to recoup costs for server space and domain name. Anything extra is gravy.
In the early days I would stop blogging in the summer and resume in the fall. That did not work so well as my viewership fell off and I had to rebuild after the holidays. Now I schedule all my articles in advance. In fact, I typically have about 15-18 articles “in the can” at any given time. Having an inventory of articles means there is no need to scramble with something new every 3-4 days, my typical interval between articles. Some of you bloggers must know how hard it is to put words together when inspiration is lacking.
I am not sure what I was expecting 6 years ago but now have a dedicated following, receive many interesting letters each week, have met people through my blog and it seems people appreciate my content. This is reflected in statistics which are the lifeblood of any blog and it’s those daily figures that keep a blogger motivated. For instance, I have more views in a typical day than I had in the first 3 months of my blog.
Not once do I claim to be a professional horologist but after 10+ years in clock repair as a hobbyist I think I know something by now.
Welcome to my first blog post written May 15, 2015 which I will present word for word.
OK, so it’s a Chinese clock but it works
I regard myself as a clock collector and tinkerer. I am not a trained horologist nor do I have a unique talent for clock repair or even getting a simple clock back to working order, but I find the world of horology to be quite fascinating.
It is a relatively new hobby for me which began with the purchase of a Daniel Dakota time and strike wall clock. Why start with a Chinese-made clock which most would consider inferior to almost any other clock in the world. It was cheap, it piqued my interest in collecting and repair and it was something to practice on. I then moved on to a Ridgeway grandfather clock and to my current collection of Mauthe, Seth Thomas, Hermle, Forestville, Sessions, Smiths Enfield, Muller and Pequegnat clocks.
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock, known as the “Fan-top”
My blog will profile clocks in my collection both vintage and antique as well as describe my attempts at repair. Along the way I will seek advice from you, the reader, from clock forum sites and whatever information I can find online.
Seth Thomas Adamantine mantel clock
Clock collecting is a great conversation starter and it allows me to combine my other passions, photography and traveling (and now, writing). Locating good clocks means traveling around the province of Nova Scotia and Canada, meeting interesting people along the way and is some cases getting that one-of-a-kind deal.
Most photos on this site are my own. Photos from other sources will be given full credit. I will try to capture the beauty of these old mechanical wonders and anything about their provenance will included as well.
Forestville Westminster chime mantel clock
Stay tuned. It is all a learning experience and as I bravely go further into the hobby I hope to share my frustrations and my successes.
As Winston Churchill once said, “Success is walking from failure to failure with no loss of enthusiasm”.
I have stayed true to form since then and continue to publish 7 to 9 articles per month. Since then I have acquired dozens of antique and vintage clocks from all over Canada and probably have upwards of 80 clocks in my collection at this point. I have also said goodbye to an additional 20 clocks through local sales and as gifts. It remains a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy although occasionally I have done some paid and pro bono work.
If you have stayed with me since the beginning, thank you, but if you are new to my blog or following for the first time, welcome!
Canadian clock collectors familiar with companies such as Arthur Pequegnat, the Canada Clock Company, the Hamilton Clock Company, Forestville, and Fleet seldom consider the Snider Clock company clocks for their collections yet for a quarter of a century this home-grown Canadian company made mantel and wall clocks designed and manufactured in Toronto, Ontario.
Starburst clock in a boutique hotel, Quebec City
Harry Snider began making clocks in 1950 under the name Snider Clock Corporation. The name then changed to the Snider Clock Manufacturing Company Limited in 1957. Throughout its history it continued as a family venture until the last clock was made in 1976.
A master clock surrounded by Snider clocks, Canadian Clock Museum, Deep River Canada
Some say they only made fashion and novelty clocks and to some extent that is true. The Snider Clock company’s response to the trends and fashions encapsulated a healthy design philosophy that kept pace with the times. Innovation, quirkiness with fanciful designs are the hallmarks of their approach to clock manufacture.
Former Snider Clock Company location in Toronto as it appeared in 2007
The company began by making mantel clocks with mechanical versions supplied by Ingraham, and later, mantel clocks with electric motors imported unassembled from the Lanshire company in Chicago. In 1960 Snider shifted focus to wall clocks which were in great demand at the time, a demand likely brought on by the Sputnik satellite, the interest in space adventure and the dawn of the “Atomic age”. Models with starburst and molecular patterns attracted new buyers.
Most models were corded electric clocks but in order to do away with the cord Snider offered an upgrade to electromechanical models with battery movements. The advantage of a battery movement was the flexibly in placement anywhere in the home.
The longest running style of clock was the starburst clock. When I think of a Snider clock the first image that comes to mind is an electric kitchen wall clock in a starburst or sunburst pattern. These were very popular and Snider sold thousands.
Telephone clock
However, Snider made unusual and fanciful lamp clocks, telephone clocks, in china, metal cast, brass-plated metal and many colours such as in brown, pink, turquoise and black.
Snider Novelty clocks, Canadian Clock Museum
In the peak years, the company made 50,000 clocks, had 20 employees, and used mainly Canadian components. Throughout its history, it strove to constantly adjust to a constantly changing market.
In 1976 when Caravelle clocks (a subsidiary of Bulova) arranged licensing agreements with retailers in Canada, Snider could not compete and ended its business after 26 profitable years. A sad end to a company ultimately pushed aside by an American competitor.
There is enough confusion among clock collectors and owners of antique and vintage items that it prompts a discussion.
The terms vintage and antique are often used interchangeably, and often incorrectly.
Vintage or antique, Seth Thomas adamantine mantel clock C.1911
According to the United States Government, the term “antique” is reserved for valuables that are over a century old. Webster’s dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Wikipedia defines antique as applying to objects at least 100 years old. Therefore, most sources define the term “antique” as items that are 100 years or more.
The word “vintage”, according to eBay, is a defined period that is less than 100 years but more than 30 years. To many, vintage often means anything that is not new, is dirty, worn, or looks like it might be old if nothing is know about its provenance.
Vintage Fleet Time mantel clock C. 1936
The word vintage is as overused, and misused, as the word “antique”.
The use of the word vintage in auctions is becoming used more. Most often the seller who knows nothing about what they are offering for sale will use the term vintage or even “rare” and hope the buyer is convinced.
Some items that were considered rare many years ago are common today. Take the 30-hour ogee clock which was once considered rare but with the advent of the internet thousands were offered for sale and prices dropped accordingly. “Rare” then became “antique”. What is truly rare today are one-of clocks that have an significant provenance.
The word “collectible” is another clever marketing term, and like the word vintage, has been misused. It presumes that the item offered must be added to what you already have and because it is the one piece you need the most, it will cost you more.
Jewelry is an interesting example. Anything over twenty years old is considered vintage. Some terms like “near” vintage and “true” vintage are often used. I assume any number of years can be assigned to “near” or “true” although “near” seems to mean “almost new” and sounds better than the word “used”.
Antique George H Clark 30-hour ogee clock
In my view no quartz clock has any value. However, in 1970, Junghans invented the Astor-Quartz wristwatch which entered series production in 1972. Watch collectors everywhere would consider the Junghans quartz watch to be a highly collectible vintage timepiece even though it is quartz.
Take the time to research your prospective purchase by consulting various sources which will inform you of the age of the clock you are shopping for.
Some clocks can be dated precisely by serial number, patent date or date stamps on the movements. Many clocks can be dated with some accuracy but often it is a challenge at times to determine the age of a particular clock unless you compare the style and movement type with others of the same period.
Vintage or antique Canadian time wall clock
In my collection is an Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time clock which is quite old but I do not know it’s exact year of manufacture but I can place it within a range of dates. It was made by the company between 1917 and 1941. There is nothing noteworthy about the movement or style of the case that determines the year it was made.
Whether antique, vintage or collectible, if you enjoy your clock nothing else truly matters.
But, if you are selling a clock it is important to inform your prospective buyer and give them the best information possible to help them make a decision.
This Fleet Time, time and strike mantel clock is essentially a plain, garden variety clock with a walnut finish, flat front, a slightly domed top, and step-side features on corner feet. The dial is heavily tarnished and the glass bezel that should be soldered to the chapter ring is detached. These bezels often go missing and at least this one came with the clock.
The clock has some issues, none of which are insurmountable. The plan is to refinish the case, attach the bezel, clean-up the dial or replace it, install new glass, and service the movement.
In this post servicing the movement is the focus.
The movement looked reasonably good when I received it and it may have had some bushing work done in the past but once apart it was clear to me that it might never have been worked on beyond a cleaning. It ran when I got it and one is tempted to leave it as is but it was dirty, had some wear and long overdue for a good cleaning.
Servicing the movement
Fleet time movement
Disassembly and testing for wear
I discovered two troubling issues when I had it apart. I put the wheels together to check for wear and I noticed the escape wheel was a fair distance along the arbour from its correct position adjacent to the leaf pinion (no photos, sorry). The pallets were contacting the very edge of the wheel. My staking set comes in handy from time to time and it was needed to close the gap between the wheel and the pinion.
staking set
Using light taps from a hammer and an appropriately sized punch I drove the wheel closer to the pinion. The pallets now contact the middle of the wheel as they should. Odd!
Fleet time movement, dirty and in need of a good cleaning
The second was an erratic beat during the testing phase of the time side. With a beat amplifier connected, I could hear the movement go ever so slightly in and out of beat, yet the movement continued to run. There are a number of possibilities but one is a bent escape wheel arbour which, in this case, was the culprit. Bent arbours are not difficult to straighten but care must be taken to bent them carefully so as to prevent a break. A broken arbour can be a very frustrating clock problem.
Once the 2 issues were out of the way it is on to cleaning the parts, inspecting and polishing the pivots, pegging the pivot holes, followed by bushing work. Most of the bushings that were installed were on the strike side. In fact, 4 of six, 3 on the backplate and one on the front plate, strike side, and the two on the time side were on the second wheel. Two were 2.5 OD bushings. I work on a lot of American and European clocks and cannot recall using bushings that small.
Testing
After cleaning and bushing work is completed the rack, snail, levers, and strike hammers/levers are attached.
Since the star wheel is on the outside of the plate I thought attaching the strike hammers would be simple. Not so much!
Fleet Time movement, star wheel paddles
Again as in all movements with star wheels, the strike paddles must sit between the star points. One was fine, the other hung on the tip of a point. Rather than attempt to force the star into position, the strike side was partially disassembled and the star wheel was re-positioned. Yes, it meant removing wheels on the strike side to change the orientation of the star wheel but it is best to do it correctly rather than risk damage to the gear.
On this movement, the mainsprings can be removed without disassembling the movement. Handy for such things as replacing a broken mainspring and making the above adjustment.
Fleet time movement
The movement was on the test stand for two eight-day cycles and now it is time to return it to its case.
Just when everything seemed to go well – disaster
I polished the 3-rod gong and mounted it and the movement within the case. I wound the strike side fully and then wound the time side. Just as I was feeling resistance, CLUNK, and then the arbour turned freely. Did the mainspring slip off the winding arbour or, did the mainspring break?
Sourcing a mainspring is not a problem but when I removed the barrel I discovered two broken and one bent tooth on the mainspring barrel plus a broken mainspring. Make that three broken teeth since a bent tooth cannot be straightened.
Broken and bent teeth
I do not have the specialized equipment to make and install new teeth and sourcing a 60 tooth barrel that is the exact height and depth would be a challenge. Worse, the catastrophic shock of the broken mainspring took out one leaf of the second wheel pinion.
When the mainspring breaks on the arbour end, which occurred in this case, the power is released uncontrolled, and causes damage to the barrel, the second wheel or both. When the mainspring breaks at the other end it tries to unwind and the loose end provides sufficient resistance, that is, a much slower release of the energy, and is less likely to cause major damage. In the latter case the mainspring is the only thing that is damaged and it can be easily replaced. In the former, both the barrel and second wheel need to be repaired or replaced.
This is an unusual situation, but it happens.
Fleet second time wheel with bent pinion leaf which cannot be straightened
The movement was aside to consider next steps. In the meantime, the plan is to locate a donor movement. The power was let down on the strike side, and everything was placed in a sealed plastic bag and marked for storage.
I’ll be honest, this situation bummed me out and it took a week to return to servicing another movement.
The clock case
The plan, after servicing the movement, was to devote a separate post on the case but since the movement is non-functional there is not much point. While the movement was on the test stand, I spent hours on the case, stripping, finishing, and polishing including swapping out the dial and broken glass with one from a Blackforest clock from the same period (both companies used the same suppliers). The case came out better than expected but now there is no movement to put in it.
Fleet Time refinished case and replacement bezel and dial
The most disappointing part? I was at the very end of the project. The movement and rod gong were installed in the beautifully reconditioned case and I was preparing it for its first run after having tested it for two weeks. I did not expect it to go out with such a destructive bang.
Broken time-side mainspring
I asked a clock friend for some advice. He says that although the barrel teeth and leaf pinion can be fixed it is usually not worth it because the process is so time consuming. “What do you do?”, I said. “I collect movements that are used as donors for times such as this”, he replied.
After having completed work on the case and dial pan of the Ingraham Grecian time and strike shelf clock it is now on to servicing the movement.
Ingraham Grecian refreshed case
Assessing the movement
The movement is in surprisingly good condition for its age. It has been serviced in the past, when, I don’t know. Here’s what I discovered during the inspection.
In an early servicing, 3 bushing holes were punched. Many years ago clock repairers used a punch to close pivot holes that had elongated after years of wear and it was considered an acceptable practice at that time. Not today!
The mainsprings and alarm spring appear to be original and the alarm mechanism showed no evidence of wear.
At a later point a clock repairer installed 3 brass bushings, 1 on the front plate and 2 on the backplate.
Pivots had been replaced on one end of the warning wheel and one end of the third wheel time-side.
The thin brass strap that trips the alarm has been re-riveted.
Ingraham Grecian, a replaced pivot, a very good job by a past repairer
The repairs were neat and professional.
But there were problems
While there were some decent repairs, someone attempted a homemade fix and it became a non-working clock. I suppose that is to be expected from a clock that is 149 years as it passes through several hands.
It appears that the clock was eventually passed on to someone who had little knowledge of things mechanical. It might have been simply out of beat and an attempt was made to adjust the crutch by twisting the crutch loop around the pendulum leader. I can only assume that in their attempt to access the mechanism to “fix” it, the dial and brass bezel were damaged in the process.
Without impulse the clock would run a minute and stop and would never run in that condition.
I reshaped the crutch loop and bent the crutch slightly to achieve a healthy beat and the clock began to run.
While the clock was running I discovered a bent escape wheel tooth. It was running despite this issue, but the verge would occasionally skip the bent tooth. A bent tooth is often the direct result of transporting a clock without removing the pendulum bob.
Servicing the alarm
There is not much to the alarm mechanism. Three pins hold the 2 small plates. I doubt this alarm was used much, It was taken apart, parts cleaned in the ultrasonic, reassembled and oiled.
Ingraham Grecian, the alarm mechanism
Servicing the movement
After letting down the mainsprings and disassembling the movement the first order of business is to straighten the bent escape wheel tooth. The trick is to “draw out” the tooth out with a pair of smooth flat jawed pliers. It is important not to stretch the tooth as this will introduce other escapement issues. Unbending the tooth is a simple procedure but a disaster if things go wrong.
Ingraham Grecian, a clean movement with a small amount of wear
Next is the inspection of pivots, lantern pinions, wheel teeth, arbours, cut pinions, of which there are two in the motion works. All looked good. The gears were meshing well on both time side and the strike side.
Ingraham Grecian, checking the strike side for wear
Following the inspection is parts cleaning in the ultrasonic machine. Once the parts are dry I inspected the movement more closely for any issues I might have missed. Next is polishing the pivots.
Once the pivots are polished it is time for bushing work if required. In the case of this movement 2 are required for the front plate and 3 for the back. On the backplate, one of the bushings is the escape wheel bridge.
Ingraham Grecian, bushing the escape wheel bridge
There were two other pivot holes that were iffy and okay for now but since I am keeping the clock it will be inspected in 3 or 4 years for wear.
Reassembly comments
The third wheel on the strike side is a combined locking and pin wheel with 2 locking pins and 2 hammer pins. There is no cam, unlike many other American movements. The spaces between the pins allow for the drop lever to descend.
The fourth wheel is the warning wheel only and it is not used for locking.
Unlike later Ingraham movements that have a passing strike on the half-hour, this is an hour strike only.
Ingraham Grecian, the inside pins are for the strike hammer
The count wheel is advanced by two protruding pins on the third wheel lantern shroud, another unusual feature. It is important to ensure that the count wheel is firmly in place, not loose but not too tight, so the third wheel pins can advance the count. The stiffness can be adjusted by bending the brass clip on the count wheel.
During reassembly, the warning wheel is set about half a revolution to prepare for the strike. Also during reassembly one of the two lock pins is placed on the locking lever, the end of which has a hook. This is to permit the count lever to go into one of the deep slots.
Ingraham Grecian movement on the test stand
Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get it right. Usually, I must make an adjustment or two after the plates are together but I was lucky the first time.
Ingraham Grecian shelf clock C.1871
When I finished servicing the movement the new hands arrived from a supplier. So, here it is with new hands attached and the movement back in the case.
Perhaps recognizable as one of the most common regulator clocks in America, the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 was found in many railway stations, offices. libraries and other public places across America during the last century, a testament to its accuracy and dependability. It is a robust, accurate, well-engineered, and dependable timepiece that was made by Seth Thomas from 1860 to 1950, a run of 90 remarkable years. Few clocks can claim that kind of longevity.
It is an iconic American clock and every serious clock collector wants one.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
This particular clock was made between 1922 and 1929 and has a base reminiscent of the earlier 1860 version of the #2. It has Arabic numbers with spade hands. The bow-tie between the wood dial bezel and the drop is one piece while earlier versions had a 3-piece “bow-tie”. It has a seconds hand 2 inches above the center cannon. However, it is not a true seconds hand and runs off the escapement taking 80 beats to complete the “minute”. All but the earliest #2s had the pendulum mounted in the rear.
It is 36 ½ inches tall and veneered in mahogany. It has 77A stamped on the bottom right of the movement with the letter “K” underneath and has a small ST stamp near the middle of the front plate. Some versions of the 77 have lantern pinions while this has cut or leaf pinions.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
It has stopped – it needs a cleaning and perhaps a bushing or two
Lately, the clock has been stopping intermittently. I would nudge the clock along and it would run 5-10 minutes at a time and stop. I replaced the suspension spring and all seemed good as the clock ran for a couple of weeks. I thought I had addressed the issue but it began to stop again!
I bought the clock three years ago. It was oiled shortly after I received it but it has not been serviced and now it is telling me that servicing is long overdue.
Seth Thomas #2 suspension spring, old on left
The movement is relatively simple in that it has 4 wheels. I disassembled the movement, pegged the pivot holes, and re-assembled it. There is wear but I have seen far worse in clocks that continue to run well. However, It appears that this movement does not tolerate wear.
Very disturbing are the aggressive, deep punch marks around most of the pivot holes. Punching around pivot holes to close them might have been an acceptable practice many years ago, but not today. The repair is crude and unprofessional.
Seth Thomas #2, aggressive punch marks around all four wheels on the backplate
The leaf pinions are in very good condition, wheel teeth look good and the verge has minimal wear.
Servicing the movement
In total up to 6 bushings are required.
I also discovered a slightly bent third-wheel arbour that did not take much effort to straighten.
Seth Thomas #2, very simple with just 4 wheels
Despite its apparent simplicity the parts are made to close tolerances and any wear has the potential to stop the clock. I don’t think this is a good movement for the novice clock repairer.
I installed three bushings on the backplate; the second, third wheels, and the escape wheel, and two on the front; third wheel, the escape wheel, and the verge pivot hole front plate.
Seth Thomas #2, minus the motion works
The movement is clean, shiny, and mounted in the case for testing and minus the motion works gears.
Seth Thomas #2, test phase; the second hand is on to give me a quick visual as I pass by the clock
Despite the fact that I have 4 movement test stands, none are appropriate for this movement because of the iron bracket onto which the movement and pendulum are mounted. I suppose I could probably adapt something. For now, into the case it goes for testing.
After three weeks the clock is running very well.
Seth Thomas #2
While the movement was out of the case I replaced both the maintaining power spring and the old cable with 3/64 inch brass weight cable. The brass cable has one feature I really like, a nylon core that prevents it from coiling. I also gave the pendulum bob and weight a polishing.
Cleaning and bushing work put the clock right. After the wear issues were addressed the clock not only runs better but polishing the brass improves its appearance.
Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo (with permission)
This attractive shelf clock was bought on an online auction in early January 2021. From the auction photos, I expected a clock that required attention and now, having received it, I am pleasantly surprised that it is in better condition than I thought.
Under the auction studio light (first photo), the case might appear to look reasonably good. Closeup, there is a lot of oily dirt and grime. Servicing the movement will wait for another day. Restoring the case and dial is first.
The vibrant grain of rosewood is there, underneath the grime
Restoration of the case and dial pan
The design of the E. Ingraham Grecian 8-day time and strike shelf clock is neoclassical. It is not only aesthetically pleasing to patrons of the nineteenth century but remains so today. it is timeless.
The age-old debate about what to do with a clock case often arises. Some say, “leave it”, the finish, however grimy is part of a clock’s history. I am not of that camp. If I found the perfect classic car in an old barn I would not leave the dirt and grime on the finish to preserve its patina? Rather, I would polish it to show it off to the world.
This clock is not a candidate for stripping the finish. Stripping is a last resort. Good old fashioned soap and water work is perfect for a project such as this.
Old clocks especially those that are over 100 years old are generally very dirty and the grime is layered. The home environment was a very different place a century ago. Smoking in the home was common, many homes had wood and coal fires for heat, humidity varied because of poor insulation and anything in suspension landed on the furniture. This Ingraham clock is no exception. The rosewood veneer deserves to be shown off and that can only be achieved by peeling off the dirt to reveal the texture of the grain underneath.
Ingraham Grecian Harris and Sons auction photo (with permission)
For cleaning, I prefer a light coloured microfiber cloth so that I can visualize how much dirt I am removing as I proceed with the cleaning. I use several during the course of the project. Diluted Murphy’s soap is used for the case and full strength for the stubborn areas.
Rubbing is required but I don’t want to get too carried away as the cloth might snag a piece of the veneer on a corner. I start with a discreet area first to see what effect the cleaning is having. Working one section at a time, I clean down to the veneer. Any shellac that remains will be removed during the cleaning.
The case looks bleached after the cleaning but a damp cloth will show the grain, the effect shellac will have once the cleaning stage is complete.
I let the case dry thoroughly before applying the first coat of shellac. Shellac is prepared in the traditional manner, flakes and lacquer thinner and mixed to a one pound cut allowing fast drying.
For this project, I applied 2 coats of shellac. Between coats, I used 4X0 steel wool to smooth out any imperfections. After the second coat, I use steel wool to take away the glossy look of the shellac.
Next is the dial.
Ingraham Grecian shelf clockIngraham Grecian clock, the dial is detached from the bezel
Above is a photo of the dial when I received the clock. It is off-center because nothing is securing the dial face to the brass bezel.
The rear of the dial, 2 new dial tabs
Two of the four tabs securing the dial face on the rear of the brass bezel were broken. The arrows show the two new tabs. I am not a whiz with a soldering iron and did the best I could but the results, to me, are acceptable. The thin brass tabs were sourced from a supplier. The tabs, once secured, are bent to secure the dial in place.
Ingraham Grecian
The numerals were in-painted. The dial was in generally good condition though there were losses outside the chapter ring. I mixed and matched paint to touch up the areas of paint loss, and installed a new grommet to replace the missing time-side one. The brass bezel, inner brass ring, and strike side grommet were polished with Brasso as the last step.
E. Ingraham Grecian shelf clock
The case and dial part of the project is complete and in a future post I will address servicing the movement.
There’s something deeply satisfying about winding a mechanical clock—feeling the tension build in the spring or watching the weights slowly rise as you turn the key. That simple ritual connects you to generations past, when timekeeping was both a science and a daily habit. Among the many types of mechanical clocks, the 8-day clock holds a special place. Wound just once a week, it blends convenience with craftsmanship, offering the perfect balance of tradition and practicality.
An 8-day clock is a mechanical clock that requires winding only once every seven days. While that may sound simple, there’s more to it than just the winding schedule.
Double-sided winding key
Types of Mechanical Clocks
Mechanical clocks vary in their run times. A 30-hour clock—often called a 1-day clock—needs daily winding. Many ogee weight-driven and alarm clocks fall into this category. Others, especially those with Chinese or Korean movements, can run up to 31 days. You’ll also find clocks rated for 14, 15, or even 60 days, and anniversary clocks, known as 400-day clocks, which run for more than a year on a single wind. The number of days simply refers to how long the clock will run before needing to be rewound.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton 15-day clock
Why Regular Winding Matters
If you don’t wind a clock near the end of its run time, it will stop when the mainspring or weight no longer provides power. A serviced 8-day spring-driven clock might run a day or two beyond its rated cycle, but eventually, it will stop once the power is depleted.
Junghans 14-day time and strike mantel clock
When an 8-day clock consistently fails to run its full cycle, it’s a clear sign that servicing is needed. Dirt, worn bushings, or tired pivots can all cause power loss. Fresh oil alone won’t solve the issue—mixing new oil with old, dirty oil can actually worsen wear.
Professional clock servicing involves fully disassembling and cleaning the movement, repairing worn areas, reassembling and lubricating it, and testing for accuracy. Though servicing can be costly—and sometimes exceed the clock’s market value—it’s well worth it for pieces with sentimental or historical importance.
It’s normal for an 8-day spring-driven clock to lose a bit of time toward the end of the week. As the mainspring unwinds, the stored energy gradually decreases, slightly slowing the movement.
Speed Variations and Clock Design
Seth Thomas round top 8-day clock
Some clocks include a device called a stopwork or Geneva stop, which limits the spring’s range to its most consistent section of power. This improves timekeeping but is relatively uncommon today—many clocks that once had stopworks have had them removed by repairers over the years.
Arrows showing Geneva stops or stop works
My Personnel Collection and the Variety of Run Times
Of the more than 80 clocks in my collection, about 30 are running at any given time. Five are 1-day ogee clocks, three have 14-day run times, and the remainder are 8-day models. Most antique and vintage clocks you find in shops or online are also 8-day clocks—the classic “once-a-week winders.”
Keeping a Regular Winding Schedule
Weight-driven 8-day clocks tend to be more accurate than spring-driven ones because their power source—a descending weight—delivers a constant force. They typically need only minor time corrections.
Final Thoughts
Winding your clock at the same time each week ensures steady performance. I make it a Sunday morning ritual to wind my clocks and make any necessary time adjustments.
Like any precision instrument, a clock rewards consistent care. With proper handling, regular maintenance, and timely servicing, an 8-day clock will live up to its name—keeping time faithfully, week after week.
Feel free to share your comments or questions below!
I am sure some of you have noticed that I have been switching between theme templates for my blog. I recently upgraded to a better plan and with the plan comes more choices for themes. I had been using the Rosalie theme for the past few days and have discovered some things I like about it and some that I don’t.
I have therefore switched back to the Gateway theme.
This should not have affected readability and navigation as everything is where it is supposed to be and I apologize for the confusion.
I am still exploring the look of the blog and you may or may not see changes in the coming weeks.
This clock was an estate auction buy in early 2021. Since my wife and I were unable to bid in person we placed an online bid. So many estate auction houses are taking this very route that the days of people packing an auction house and bidding feverishly may be behind us. It was described as an unknown clock but I’d seen enough photos online to know that I had likely won a Hamburg American Clock Co. shelf clock. And, for a small shipping fee the clock was delivered to us a few days later by courier.
HAC was a well-known German company that was founded in 1883 and made clocks for a number of years before they were acquired by Gebr Junghans Uhrenfabrik or Junghans for short, in the late 1920s. I have a number of German clocks but this is the first HAC clock in my collection.
Bracket clock, auction photo (with permission)
When I opened the box I inspected the clock for damage (there was none) and proceeded to look for the familiar cross arrows trademark on the backplate of the movement. I could see how it would have been easily missed by the auction house since the trademark was “hidden” behind the pendulum leader. Many HAC clocks have a trademark on the gong block, this one does not.
HAC trademark
The case is a little tired and worn, especially the dial, but there is nothing amiss, no parts missing. The movement works but I am not sure what to do with a very tired looking dial face.
I pulled the movement out of the case to examine it more closely, inspect for any immediate issues, and proceeded to photograph it from different angles.
HAC clock, tired but working
HAC clock movement, backplate
HAC clock movement, front plate
Like other German movements, it is robust, well-engineered and has a certain industrialized look, even crude in some respects. The front and backplates are solid indicating that it was probably an early version of this movement. There are no “extra” holes in the plates that are often found in many other German movements, holes that are made for various functions for other styles of cases. Compared this to the #36 movement (below right) from HAC. At 8.7 cms by 10.9 cms this one is almost the exact size.
HAC #36 clock movement
The plates are almost 2 mm thick, suggesting a well engineered movement.
Movements on German mantel and shelf clocks from other manufacturers are typically bolted to a seat-board. On this clock, brackets on all 4 corners attach the movement to the inside front panel which is very American!
Numbers in the top left corner of the backplate,164, 42, and 130 tell the beats per minute, the number of escape wheel teeth, and pendulum length.
I am anxious to take the movement apart and look at ways to revitalize the case and dial.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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