The case might be a lost cause but I can certainly save the movement of this Ingraham Ocean series gingerbread clock. The clock came to me in fair condition but it was missing a key element, the glass tablet and for that reason, I am not inclined to source a replacement, the clock is just not worth it.
There were several shards of glass at the bottom of the case and I suspect the glass was broken during its journey to the auction house or at the auction house itself which is unfortunate. I could substitute with clear glass but that would diminish the value of a clock that is not worth much, to begin with.
Ingraham OceanLine, pieces of another clock in foreground of auction photo
However, I can save the movement and the dial as well as a door catch, perhaps use it for future projects or for spare parts.
It was dirty as one would expect and it has not seen the inside of a professional repair shop judging from a rather sloppy click repair. The repair appears to have held and I will tidy it up and leave it.
The movement is interesting and clearly late manufacture. The number 11 is stamped on the movement which might indicate that it was made or about in 1911. Regardless, it is from the pre-war period. I also see steel pieces such as the intermediate wheel, the centre cannon, the fly and the count-wheel hub.
All the parts were placed in the ultrasonic and cleaned following which I replaced the wheels between the plates to recheck for wear. It looks like 5 new bushings on the front plate, 2 on the strike side and on the time side, and all the upper wheels in the trains. On the back, the third wheel requires a new bushing as does the second wheel and the escape wheel.
Black dots mark where new bushings will go.
Eight bushings in all, which is fairly standard for a movement with this degree of wear.
Mainsprings are cleaned and oiled
I have not worked on an Ingraham movement in some time but recall that the strike side is set up quite differently.
The count wheel is mounted on the second arbour (unlike most which mount on the main wheel arbour) and advances by means of two pins that extend from the third wheel lantern pinion. The third wheel is a combined locking wheel and pin wheel. There is no cam on the arbour, instead, there is a space between two pins that allows the lever to drop at the same time the paddle drops into the deep slot on the count wheel. The fourth wheel is just used for warning and not for locking.
Reassembly and testing
All went well. A couple of adjustments had to be made but otherwise, it is running well. I will leave it on the test stand for a week or two.
The movement will go into a bag and be stored for a future project. I already have plans for the harvested clock parts but if I find another Ingraham gingerbread in the Ocean series, I might consider resurrecting this one if the tablet is intact.
I have had my eye a clock timing machine for a while but I was recently encouraged to accelerate my plan to buy one. My Timetrax model 50 beat amplifier stopped running for some reason. Okay, I dropped it and it made a strange rattling noise when I picked it up. Now it doesn’t work!
Model 50 beat amplifier, now broken
Do I need a timer? Up to now, I got along fine without it and generally speaking anyone repairing clocks can certainly get by without one. But I can now see that this little device can be quite practical and can save a lot of time and frustration.
Timetrax model 185
What does it do?
It is a Timetrax model 185 made by Adams Brown. It works by analyzing the mechanical vibration of a clock and converting the vibration or tick and tock to an electrical signal that is amplified within the timer producing a readout that is compared to an included clock train table.
It also has a beat amplifier and a balance control that will help determine the beat of a clock. It will certainly ease the process of regulating a clock, detect potential problem areas and perhaps eliminate or certainly reduce the lengthy time it takes to adjust a clock beyond a trial and error approach. I will learn more as I explore its many features.
It runs on batteries and unfortunately there is no way of hooking it up to an external power source. Don’t we have enough things that run on batteries in our homes!
I connected it to my Seth Thomas regulator #2, which is weight driven.
Seth Thomas #2
I checked the beat. It is roughly set by ear at first and fine-tuned by the machine. A clock is in beat when the time between ticks is even.
Switch the controller to BAL or “balance” to put the clock in beat.
The screen then displays a magnitude of numbers. I am over simplifying things a bit but a new number positive or negative is displayed as the movement ticks and a clock is in beat when the magnitude of numbers is minimized. The ideal reading is a succession of zeros which is almost impossible but the closer one gets to the zeros the better and the clock is now in beat or as close as possible to being in beat. Values under 20 are the goal.
Now for the beat timing. A Seth Thomas #2 runs at 80 beats per minute. So, 80bpm X 60 is 4800 beats per hour. The escape wheel has 40 teeth, so in this case the best numbers for a preset average is 80 (a doubling) and by clicking the beat cycle plus-minus button one arrives at the required number. The result for the ST2 was 4798 beats per hour. I am losing 2 beat per hour and compounded over one week it means a loss of mere seconds per week which in my view is very acceptable for a mechanical clock. It is not surprising that these clocks were originally designed for train stations.
I am sure I will discover other uses for this machine but for the moment I am pleased with its capabilities.
I acquired a number of clocks at auction this past winter (2022). All were antiques and all were in poor to fair condition but each one had potential. The auction notes simply said the movements were untested which can mean just about anything from a failed, irreparable movement to something that might have been serviced recently.
One of the four from the auction is an attractive clock with nice clean lines and from the look of the case, which is in decent shape, I would have expected a well-cared-for movement which turned out not to be the case when I removed it.
Those with a keen eye will notice something missing on the case – the topper or crown, but no worries, I have all the pieces, it is just a matter of gluing them back on.
Auction photo
I located a clock exactly like it online with a description that was no help at all other than the fact that it was made by the Ansonia Clock Co. However, the design of the base is identical to the “Alaska” found in the 1886 Ansonia catalog so, I would estimate the clock was made around that time, give or take a year or two.
Beyond a well-worn movement is that it has a 30-hour run time. A clock with a 30-hour movement is a tough sell based on my experiences these past 10 years. The alarm feature might attract some buyers or others might be simply looking for a decorative piece.
The movement
The one-day or 30-hour movement with alarm is made by the Ansonia Clock Co. The date June 13, 1882, is stamped on the front plate and refers to a patent date. Digging a little deeper I found Letters Patent No. 259,505 by W.D. Davies for a striking mechanism for clocks, registered in Brooklyn, New York January 31, 1882. Naturally, the clock could not have been made before that date.
Davies patent
The patent has a unique lifting lever, called a “turn back” (fig 4) that allows the hands to be turned back past the hours eliminating a second spindle that would otherwise be used by other manufacturers to allow the hands to be turned back.
The movement
It is a run-of-the-mill 30-hour movement. It is as small as one would expect for the run time. It has been worked on in the past as there are plenty of punch marks around the pivot holes, more so on the time side than the strike side which I will explain later.
I have spring retention clamps for all sizes of mainsprings but none that would fit this movement exactly. My smallest would not fit because there is a steel post in the way on the strike side but wire works just as well though I was able to get a clamp around the mainspring on the time side.
Strike side wheels, a wire holds the mainspring
As it is a 30-hour movement the mainsprings are not as powerful as one would find in an 8-day clock although I always use care when working with mainsprings and wear thick work gloves.
Every pivot on the strike side looked like the one below. Dirty yes, but very little wear.
Strike side pivot before polishing
The time side was an entirely different matter.
Every pivot was in very poor condition, the worst is shown below.
The escape wheel pivot is too thin to be salvageable
The worst pivots were both ends of the escape wheel and the third wheel. I was able to grind down most of the pivots, including the 3rd wheel since there was enough usable steel to carry the load through the train. Not so for the escape wheel.
New escape wheel pivot,front plate
It required re-pivoting.
The third wheel pivot on the time side,this one is salvageable
A sizable portion of the brass was chewed away on the escape wheel bushing, backplate. As wear accelerates over time, the clock would eventually “grind” to a halt.
Escape wheel pivot hole backplate
As for the difference in wear on both sides, there are two possible reasons. Some folks do not like the sound of a striking clock in a home. The clock will still run with only the time side wound but the result is disproportionate wear. The second is that the patented design does not allow room for error during setup and perhaps it was too frustrating getting the strike side to run reliably.
The new pivot
Using a mini lathe I began with a centering bit and then with high-speed bits drilled holes in both ends of the escape wheel to a sufficient depth to anchor the pivot wire. I have a good supply of pivot wire and it was a matter of selecting the correct size, which in this case is 1.35mm wire.
The shot above shows the new escape wheel pivot supported in place and it will remain on the lathe in this position until the Permatex Threadlocker Red has cured (24 hours).
Bushing the escape wheel bridge
With that kind of wear, I am surprised the clock ran as well as it did although American clocks will typically continue to run despite being well worn, wear that would certainly stop a German or French clock.
Assembly and testing
The strike side wheels are left out for testing (beat timer is attached)
Normally I would assemble the entire movement after completing the bushing work but since I installed two brand new pivots I realized that I would have to make minor escape wheel/pallet adjustments and having fewer wheels to deal with makes it less frustrating taking it apart again. A new suspension spring and leader also replaced the original one.
After 30 hours the movement continues to run strongly. I tested the movement a day or two more before installing the remaining wheels and levers.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
PN writes:
We bought this wall clock about 30 years ago at an auction. We would like to sell it. Can you tell me anything about it and/or it’s value? I appreciate your time.
Unknown wall clockUnknown wall clock
My reply:
How is the movement mounted in the clock? Is it mounted to rails (so that it can be removed easily by loosening 2 thumb screws) or by screws on the backboard. If it is mounted by screws to the backboard it is not German, French or British. It could be American but I doubt it.
I do not believe your clock is an antique. The ornate carved design is very much a feature of Oriental clocks and possibly Korean from about the 1960s or 1970s. There were some nicely carved antique American clocks but nothing this extensive. I have not seen one exactly like it but ones that are very similar.
These clocks show well and are sought after by some people looking for a unique decorative item but as to value, perhaps two or three hundred dollars or so.
PN writes back:
It is mounted to the backboard with screws. We paid $250 30 years ago and it kept great time. Thank you so much for your time and knowledge.
Note; I have not seen one like it, do not know the maker and if anyone reading this knows more about it, kindly leave a message.
The movement was pulled out of a 30-hour shelf clock made by American clock-maker E. Ingraham and Co. in the 1870s (the name the company used from 1861 to 1880). The clock was bought at auction in mid-March 2022 along with 3 other clocks.
E Ingraham 30-hour movement
This is one of those situations where the case looks distressed whereas the movement looks like it has been well cared for over the years. It has seen service at least three times.
The three dates, two on the back panel and one on the rear of the dial, are all presumably service dates. The inscription, Bridges Bros, Woodstock, New Brunswick, 1879 is the earliest and on the back panel are the dates January 31, 1916 (barely readable) and October 1994.
Auction photo
The case
The gold band on the front face of the “octagon top” has some losses. I intend to hide the nicks with gold artist paint matched to the case. There are a few scratches over the rosewood case which will be hidden by a fresh coat of shellac following cleaning with soap and water.
5% of a label remains on the back. The inside label is interesting since most of the back panel is covered in black paper with E Ingraham Co. inscribed in gilt on the bottom section.
Dull dark blue paper labelwith gilt lettering
The dial shows considerable wear following years of daily use and the plan is to enhance the numbers with multi-surface black acrylic paint.
Auction photo
As a collector who has seen many of these styles of clocks, I initially assumed the access door glass was a replacement since many from this period had reverse painted tablets. Due to the decorative pendulum, the bright brass bell, the stylized wood panel that is the base for the dial, the glass panel with its waviness and various imperfections plus the putty-like material that is used to mount the glass, the total absence of any sign that it was painted, the clear glass appears to be original to the case.
It is always a bit of a disappointment when something is lost or changed in a clock’s history but the case looks reasonably good despite the minor wear.
Some of the scratches, dents, etc. found on a case (not all of course) are no doubt the result of rough handling either when transporting the item to the auction house or during its stay.
This is certainly not an example of a case that requires refinishing. The minor touch-ups and enhancements will dramatically improve the appearance of this clock while not changing its character or value in any way (but may even increase it marginally).
The movement
Now to the movement. The movement looks surprisingly good for its age and from my first inspection, it does not need much to put it right.
The front plate and escape wheel removed
Every time-side pivot and bushing is in very good condition and there is an old replacement bushing, 3rd wheel back-plate.
The strike side requires a new bushing second wheel back-plate. There are two old replacement bushings on the front plate and two on the backplate, all on 3rd wheels. The bushings are nice to see but it is not encouraging when one pops out while pegging the movement. It will be replaced. Not the best of workmanship.
There are punch marks around four bushing holes, front, and back. All pivots on the strike side are in very good condition.
It also appears the time side mainspring has been shortened a bit, not a concern since these clocks when properly serviced will run well past 30 hours.
All in all, it should be a quick project. Now that I have a clear idea of what needs to be done I will get to work on the case. Expect a post on the case itself in the next few weeks.
Honestly, an entire book could be devoted to the topic of dating clocks. Some time ago, I published an article titled “How to Date an Antique or Vintage Clock – Part I,” in which I used specific examples from my own collection.
I’d like to explore this topic further, and this post will discuss additional methods for dating an antique or vintage mechanical clock. While there is no one definitive method for dating an antique or vintage clock, there are often clear clues in some cases and more subtle hints in others that can help pinpoint when a clock was made.
Occasionally, the exact month and year are displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances, the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.
After 1896 foreign clocks (Europe, England) were mandated to have the country of origin on the case, usually on the dial. Any clock made after that date will have the country of origin.
Duration of manufacture
A bit of research into the history of a clockmaker can help you narrow down the timeframe for dating your clock. For instance, the E.N. Welch Clock Company, an American manufacturer, produced clocks until 1903, when it was acquired by the Sessions Clock Company, which continued making clocks until 1970. The E.N. Welch Clock Company made clocks for a 50-year period until its acquisition by Sessions in 1903.
By 1903 German-based clock manufacturer Junghans was the largest clock maker in the world and continued in its quest to bring more companies into the fold. Gustav Becker, founded in the 1860s, and Hamburg American Clock Company, founded in 1883 were absorbed by Junghans in the late 1920s. Although those companies were folded into Junghans in 1926 the Gustav Becker name lived on for another 9 years.
Gustav Becker regulator C.1907, Braunau factory
Clocks with Steel vs Brass platesvs Woodworks movements
Smaller shelf clocks with 1-day (30-hour) wooden movements were produced in fairly large quantities from around 1810 to 1845, after which most clockmakers changed over to brass movements. Wood dials were also popular during this period.
Daniel Pratt woodworks movement with dial removedC.1832-38
By 1860 iron weights were being replaced by springs as the power source, and smaller clocks, many of them 8-day, were becoming increasingly popular. Early American spring-driven clocks used brass springs (late 1830s) until steel became cost-effective.
This information is important for dating a clock because it highlights key transitions in clockmaking technology and design, which can help pinpoint the era in which a clock was made. For example, the use of wooden movements and wood dials can indicate a clock was produced between 1810 and 1845. The shift from iron weights to springs by 1860 helps us understand why spring-driven clocks became popular, which is crucial for narrowing the period of manufacture. Additionally, the switch from brass springs to steel in the early 1840s can provide a more precise date range for early spring-driven clocks.
Understanding these technological changes allows you to make more informed judgments about a clock’s age based on its features.
Brass mainsprings from a Manross steeple clock C.1837
During periods when brass was in short supply such as the World Wars (WWI and WWII), makers often made steel plate movements with brass bushing inserts. However, some companies such as Arthur Pequegnat used either steel plates or brass-plated steel plates throughout their operating years (1902 to 1941).
Steel plates on a Pequegnat time and strike clock
Other clock companies switched to steel as a cost-cutting measure when brass prices were high, not necessarily during wartime.
Screws and nails, chime rods, coiled gongs
In older clocks, nails, and screws were made of iron and hand-forged, with screw heads being slotted. Hand-forged nails can be found in clock cases dating from the earliest examples up to the mid-19th century, after which machined screws and nails started to replace them.
An ogee clock, like this example made by George H. Clark in 1865, was constructed with hand-forged nails.
George H Clark 30-hour Ogee shelf clock
Robertson and Phillips head screws were introduced in the first part of the twentieth century. Since the Robertson head was invented in 1906 and Phillips screw heads only began to be widely used in the 1930s screws of these types found in older antique clocks are later additions.
Since these screw types were introduced in the early 20th century, their use in a clock that dates from an earlier period suggests that the screws were likely replaced or added during a later restoration or repair. Recognizing these screws helps refine the clock’s dating and can provide insight into its history and any modifications it may have undergone.
The first rod gong, a single striking rod, dates back to patent designation DRGM 108469, granted to Johann Obergfell on December 23rd, 1899. The introduction of the rod gong, as opposed to earlier bell or strike systems, represents a key development in the evolution of mechanical clocks, especially in terms of sound quality and the technology used.
Understanding when this innovation occurred can help date a clock more accurately, particularly those with rod gongs, as it indicates they were likely made after 1899. Rod gongs are typically made from a copper or nickel alloy and are press-fitted into a block.
Thick coiled gong
There are two types of coils: the thick coils, which spiral only a few times and produce a deep, rich tone, and the thinner coils, which spiral many times and often have a higher-pitched, tin-like sound. Thick coils were used well before the mid-1800s. These coils are typically mounted onto a fitting, which is then attached to an iron block. Smaller, thicker coils became more common towards the end of the 19th century.
On the American front, thin wire coils were very common. Some examples had the coil mounted to a dome-shaped base which was said to improve the tone considerately.
Commemorative plaques
Commemorative plaques which display dates are often a good indicator of the age of a clock. However, the clock may have been on a seller’s shelf for years before the date on the plaque. This nevertheless places the clock within a certain range of dates. This photo shows a plaque on a HAC (Hamburg American Clock Co.) time and strike shelf clock.
HAC shelf clock with the date 1926 on a plaque
Type of escapement
Recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, Brocot types are found in older antique clocks while, hairspring, floating balance, lever type escapements are found in newer vintage (less than 100 years old) clocks.
For example, floating balance movementsbegan appearing in mechanical clocks in the early 1950s. The floating balance will tolerate being out of level, unlike pendulum clocks which must be on a level surface, an attractive marketing feature.
This is important because the type of escapement mechanism used in a clock can provide key insights into its age and technological development. Older clocks with recoil (anchor), half deadbeat, Graham deadbeat, pinwheel, or Brocot escapements reflect the horological practices of earlier periods, while newer clocks featuring hairspring, floating balance, or lever type escapements indicate a more modern design, typically found in clocks less than 70 years old.
For example, the introduction of the floating balance in the 1950s was a signifcant advance because it allows for clocks that are less sensitive to being off-level, a feature that made them more convenient for consumers. Recognizing these mechanisms helps in accurately dating a clock and understanding the technological shifts over time.
floating balance escapementC. 1950
Style of case
The style of the case, such as ogee, box clock, steeple, cottage, or gingerbread, can help date the clock to a specific period.
The style of a clock case can offer valuable clues about its age, as different case styles were popular during specific periods in history. Here’s a breakdown of some common clock case styles and their associated timeframes:
Ogee Clocks: These clocks, named for the distinctive curved, “S”-shaped design of their cases, were popular from the early 19th century, especially between 1825 and 1850 but continued to be made into the 1880s. They typically have a simple, symmetrical shape, often with a painted or paper dial, and were mostly made with wooden movements in the early years.
Box Clocks: This style features a simple, rectangular or square case, often with a hinged door or glass front. Box clocks were common in the early to mid-19th century (1920s to 1940s), with their plain, functional design making them relatively inexpensive to produce.
Steeple Clocks: Steeple clocks are characterized by their pointed, “steeple” shape at the top of the case. This design became particularly popular from the 1840s through the 1870s. Steeple clocks were typically more decorative and were often used in homes and churches, with some having more ornate carvings or decorative elements.
Cottage Clocks: Cottage clocks, with their simple and rustic designs, emerged in the mid-19th century, around the 1840s and 1850s. Often smaller in size, these inexpensive clocks were popular in rural homes. They are sometimes characterized by a more casual, handcrafted appearance, with wooden cases and floral or geometric motifs.
Gingerbread Clocks: This style, which features intricate carvings and decorative elements like scalloped edges, ornate moldings, and small, detailed pieces, gained popularity in the mid- to late-19th century (around 1860 to 1880). Gingerbread clocks are often associated with the Victorian era and were typically mass-produced.
The case style is a strong indicator of the clock’s approximate age because clockmakers and manufacturers often adapted their designs to reflect contemporary tastes. By identifying the specific features of a clock’s case—such as the materials used, shape, and any distinctive decorative elements—you can narrow down the period in which it was made, which can then aid in dating the clock more precisely.
E Ingraham Huron C.1878
Knowing the period when a case was made provides a reliable indicator of the clock’s age. Although there are earlier patent dates stamped on the movement of this E. Ingraham Huron time and strike 8-day shelf clock, this style of case was made for only 2 years, 1878 to 1880.
Date stamps on movements or cases& searchable databases
Some makers stamp date their movements or display the date elsewhere on the clock case. The Gilbert Clock Company often date-stamped their movements. Sessions put dates on the door labels.
Some makers such as Junghans stamp a date code on their movements. For example, B19 stamped on the back plate of a Junghans movement refers to a movement made in the latter half of 1919.
Serial numbers stamped on movements can be compared to a database to determine the exact year the clock was made. The Ridgeway clock company used 4-digit codes. For example, serial number 4981 refers to a Ridgeway clock made in 1981.
Gustav Becker clocks were made in both Silesia and Braunau factories, both of which produced clocks but each had a unique serial number convention. The serial number on a Gustav Becker clock will give the exact year of production assuming you know where it was made, Silesia or Braunau.
An online databases such as ClockHistory.com provides invaluable information on companies and models made by them, the years the clock company was in business, and how long the company was in operation.
Searchable databases like Mikrolisk, the horological trademark index help date a clock by comparing a trademark. Some companies revise or restyle their trademarks over the years allowing one to date a clock within a certain period.
At Antique-horology.org keywords or text can be used to search trademarks and identify years they were used.
Scottish tall case clock C.1848
The date 1848 is attributed to the clock above. I arrived at this date because it was made by William McLachlan of Newton Stewart, Scotland. According to an English clock database, Mr. McLachlan was a clock assembler and ran a clock-making business in Newton Stewart until his death in 1848. While the clock could have been assembled as early as 10 years prior, 1848 serves as a conservative estimate.
Other miscellaneous indicators
Plywood began to be used in clock cases starting in 1905. One of the clocks in my collection, a Junghans bracket clock, made around 1913, features a plywood back access door.
Seth Thomas made clocks in marble cases for a short time, from 1887 to about 1895. They also made clocks in iron cases finished in black enamel, from 1892 to about 1895.
Adamantine clocks were most popular through to 1915. Seth Thomas is best known for their “Adamantine” black mantel clocks, which were made starting in 1882. Adamantine is a celluloid veneer, glued to the wood case. Adamantine veneer was made in black and white, and in coloured patterns such as wood grain, onyx, and marble.
Seth ThomasAdamantine clock circa 1911
Final thoughts
My goal for this two-part article was to provide a broad, generalized overview. Each of the sub-topics mentioned above could be explored in much greater detail, and I hope this serves as a useful reference for some of you. I welcome any corrections to the dates, and if there’s anything I’ve missed or other information that should have been included, please feel free to leave a comment.
As I’ve outlined, there are many ways to date a clock—some methods are quite obvious, while others are more subtle and require a bit of research to pinpoint.
For some collectors and clock fans, dating a clock is crucial, as it adds historical context and value to the piece. For others, however, it may not be as important, especially if the clock serves primarily as a decorative item rather than a functional or collectible piece. In such cases, the aesthetic appeal might take precedence over its exact age.
Schatz and Sohne, the maker of this pretty little 8-day carriage clock may not have considered that one day their carriage clocks would require servicing. Did they make a throw-away clock? We’ll see.
Many were sold and typically gifted to family, friends, and business associates. Over the years they have either been tossed out, found their way to antique shops/flea markets, sold to people like me or sat on a shelf never to run again. Yet, they are nice looking clocks.
Does the beginning of this blog sound familiar? If you are a regular reader you will note that I wrote about this clock a few weeks ago. Not happy the first time, I decided to tackle the movement a second time hoping for a better result. My approach is to give every movement my best effort and up to this point I have lost very few patients so, I was not going to allow this one to get the best of me.
My initial efforts to fix the clock produced a result that was no better than when I got it. It ran about 4 days and after servicing I was unable to improve on the running time.
Was it worn? Everything looked very good except for the second wheel (middle plate) bushing hole which was very badly worn, not surprising since the second wheel accepts the full force of the main wheel.
The worst bushing wear I have seen in a while
The thin brass plates don’t help since they exacerbate wear. A new bushing was installed and it was a good fit, worked perfectly but was very close to the edge of the plate.
As good as it gets but very close to the edge of the plate
During the first run-through, I thought I had nailed it. It should have run for 8 days. It did not.
Escape wheel at the bottom of the movement
However, in that first servicing, I did not clean the mainspring.
This time the mainspring came out of the barrel. It was not an easy task to extract it as the barrel is very small, 35mm in diameter, and too tiny for my Olie Baker spring winder (why I did not tackle it in the first place). Compare the barrel size to the winding key in the next photo.
A very small mainspring barrelDuring testing
Once the barrel cap was off, and the winding arbour removed I snagged the mainspring in the centre with a pair of needle-nosed pliers and pulled it from the barrel. Gloves are necessary as you never know how much force a mainspring will have once released from any barrel.
It was dirty but was that enough to affect the running of the clock? Will servicing the mainspring improve things? Hmm!
While the mainspring was out of its barrel I gave it a good cleaning followed by a wipe-down with Keystone mainspring oil. Back in it goes. Easy enough to take out but very frustrating to put back into the barrel. A few curse words and some encouragement and the spring found its way into the barrel.
It will be tested without the case and dial attached. So far it looks good but it has run for only a few hours.
Will it run for 8 days?
2 weeks days later
Servicing the mainsprings might have given me the 8 days I was seeking but that might not have been possible without fine-tuning the hairspring escapement which I believe contributed equally to a better run time. An adjusting screw on the escape wheel allows for fine-tuning but I had to rely on trial and error to find the sweet spot. Success in the end.
My intention was never to make this clock a daily runner but it is nice to have something that runs according to its original design. My cost was one bushing and, of course, my time.
It will be displayed, and run occasionally. Oh, and about that mainspring; I cannot imagine anyone with arthritic hands trying to wind it once per week, that mainspring is so powerful.
These are very cute little carriage clocks and they can be successfully repaired but I would certainly not put a great deal of money into servicing one unless, of course, it has deep sentimental value.
Ten years have flown by very quickly. Just the other day I was cleaning a clock I serviced over 5 1/2 years ago and it struck me that I have been at this for over 10 years and loving it.
Three years into the hobby I decided to begin blogging and have been at it for close to 7 years. I love blogging and it helps me gauge my progress as I explore new avenues of clock collecting, repair, and restoration and it allows me to marry my photography hobby with writing.
It has been quite the journey, I have learned a lot in that time and have some thoughts I would like to share.
Managing my collection makes me a better collector
In the early days, I would collect just about anything I could get my hands on, the cheapest clocks imaginable, some for as little as $5, generally for practice working on cases and movements but the number of clocks began to build up at a fast rate.
80 clocks is a comfortable number for me. I have adopted a “one comes in, one goes out” rule to control the size of my collection.
I learned to become more discriminatory and concentrate on particular types of clocks rather than any clock at all, selling off or gifting those that did not fit my new criteria. Spring and weight driven wall clocks and American and Canadian shelf clocks from the 1860s and 1870s are my principle focus at this time.
Museum collection
Take your time, there is no rush
Rewards come in small increments. My last major project was an antique 1840s circa banjo clock. Acquired in the spring of 2021 it took me almost a year to complete the project, working on it in stages.
Sawin Banjo clock C.1840
Whether it is restoration or repair, I take my time investigating new (to me) techniques or wait for a tool that I feel would make the job simpler. For example, the bezel repair on the banjo clock above was made much easier by the purchase of a band clamp.
Buy only the tools you require and more if and when you need them
Tools can be expensive. As in any hobby requiring the assembly and disassembly of mechanical devices, I relied on the tools I had on hand to get started. Once committed to the hobby my next decision was to determine how I wanted to grow it.
Equipment such as a pivot cutter. lathe, a decent ultrasonic cleaner can amount to hundreds if not thousands of dollars.
Bergeon Bushing Machine
It took me four years to justify purchasing a pivot cutter, another year or two to buy a lathe and ultrasonic cleaner and over time I have managed to acquire most of the hand tools that I require. Spreading out the costs over time has also made it financially feasible.
There is always the option of buying used but I live in a distant part of Canada with a low population and there are just not as many people engaged in clock collecting and repair as would be elsewhere.
Antique and vintageclocks are cheap and there are plenty of them
Some clocks are well over 100 years old but are worth almost nothing. A glut of antique clocks offered on the internet have lowered their value. Ogee clocks that were once two and three hundred dollars years are worth a quarter of that today.
I have bought $40 clocks that are now worth, well…$40. There are a rarefied few in the world that are worth a fortune but I don’t have any of those in my collection.
A $5 barn find
Some clocks have crept up in price over the years but I do not have anything that I would call very valuable. Others, such as my collection of eight Arthur Pequegnats mantel and wall clocks are highly collectible in Canada.
At any given time there are literally hundreds of “antique” clocks offered on online for-sale sites. A majority of these clocks are trash and many are not antique though they are offered as such. Sellers often advertise clocks that are beyond repair and unfortunately clocks made in Asia are cheap, dangerous to work on, and were never meant to be repaired.
Choose repair advice wisely – not all advice is good advice
There are experts on clock repair out there, you just have to find them. It is too easy to get swept up by people who do not know what they are talking about and there are a number of well-meaning folk on YouTube that offer questionable clock repair advice. I follow a couple of well-respected YouTube repairers and have seen enough of their videos to convince me that they know what they are doing.
As I am a member of the NAWCC (National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors) and a member of the Ottawa Valley Watch and Clock Collectors Club, chapter 111 of the NAWCC. As such I have access to a wealth of information including online library resources and articles. NAWCC has an online forum presence that anyone can join for free. There are a number of well-respected people on the forum who contribute regularly. They have years of experience and offer excellent advice.
There are few clock Facebook groups but the advice is all over the map. Tinkerers and experts can be found but the expert soon loses patience and many are chased away by the know-it-all.
Collect clocks for profit? The margins are too small. However, I do sell the odd clock to offset equipment purchases. For me, I love the nostalgia, the design, and the fascination of a machine that may be over 150 years old that works perfectly today. Value is not important to me. Hobbies for profit? For some but not for me.
Be prepared to walk away
I have walked away from more than a few clocks over the past 10 years. Sometimes you have to let it go. Whether it is the price of a clock on an auction site that has risen beyond what I am prepared to pay or a clock offered as rare when it is, in fact, quite common.
E Ingraham Huron shelf clock made between 1878-1880
Some would have been perfect to have in my collection but they were priced just a little too high for my tastes. Others had too many things wrong and had suspicious repairs or parts missing that would have been impossible to source.
Just when I say, darn I missed that one, a better clock comes along.
Meeting like-minded peopleopens up a new world
As clock collectors and repairers we are a strange lot. Some of my clock colleagues are quite eccentric. Most are introverts and although they keep to themselves have no trouble sharing with like-minded people. One of the most fascinating things about this hobby is the people and their passion for mechanical clocks.
Final thoughts
These are some of my reflections over the past 10 years. I have learned a lot, met many fascinating people, acquired some very interesting clocks and look forward to more adventurers in the world of clock collecting and repair.
Those of you who work on mechanical clocks regularly must have run into this situation at least once. Everything went perfectly until the very end.
Sessions time and strike movements are very common and I have worked on quite a few over the years. They are reasonably well constructed with the exception of a well-documented poorly designed click.
Worn click on a Sessions movement
The other day I was working on a movement that I had originally serviced 5 1/2 years ago. Back in 2016, I installed 10 bushings, quite a number for any clock but it was very worn. It has run exceptionally well since then but now it was time for an inspection, cleaning, oiling, and correcting any possible issues.
Sessions movement in a wall clock
I took the movement apart, cleaned the plates, wheels, and levers in my ultrasonic cleaner (which I did not have back in 2016), and reassembled the movement. As expected the movement is much shinier than before and looks like it came off the factory floor.
During my inspection, I found minor wear but the only location where a bushing was required was the second wheel backplate. I could have left it but it was worn enough to need a new bushing.
Backward count wheel
It’s back together and being tested. Okay, I had to open up the strike side to reposition the stop wheel to correct warning but that’s about it.
It now runs perfectly and a nice pat on the back for me but oh! oh! wait…..it is not quite perfect, because I don’t think three o’clock follows four.
Dang, the count wheel is on backward. Why didn’t I see that?
You probably expected me to express a few choice words but I looked at it and said, ha, that’s too funny!
5 minutes was all it required to put it right and now it sounds great. Four o’clock now follows three o’clock. Yes!
On March 15, 2022 British Columbia (Canada) announced that the province is ready to spring forward with permanent daylight savings time (DST) as soon as the United States signs off on national legislation.
Now approved by the senate the U.S. House of Representatives must take the time to review the bill. If it passes, the expectation is Washington, Oregon and California will move to permanent daylight time. The change would not take effect until 2023.
The argument to keep daylight time permanently is that it would increase light at the end of the day and is already observed eight months of the year.
On Tuesday, in a statement, B.C.’s Premier said British Columbians told them loud and clear in a public consultation last year they want to stop falling back and springing forward each year.
Should BC abandon DST it will not take long for the other 9 provinces and 3 territories (Northwest Territories, Nunavut, and Yukon) to fall in line.
This is great news. I have advocated scrapping this silly DST thing for years. First used in 1908, in Thunder Bay, Ontario it spread throughout the world to 70 countries and affects 1 billion people every year, so, time’s up!
And to all the disappointed farmers out there who supposedly support DST and will miss it, it’s time to choose another field!!
This banjo clock project has been an ongoing challenge for nearly a year, a very enjoyable one that has taught me so much.
The movement has been serviced, 4 new bushings installed, the case has been cleaned, veneer issues addressed on the two bottom corners, a new post was made for the final, dial glass has been replaced, the hands rubbed down with steel wool to remove rust, the bottom section of the rails on both sides re-glued, some flat-head screws replaced (with smaller flat-head screws taken from old cases) and the old brass cable was removed and replaced. The dial was left untouched.
There is a simplicity about the case design that I really like.
Veneer missing on two bottom corners
The old and tired suspension spring should be replaced. I cannot source the spring alone but I am reluctant to pay for an entire pendulum assembly. It has been straightened and it works well for now.
The last step is addressing the crack in the wood dial bezel.
Cracked bezel
The age crack is just above the number eleven on the dial. It was likely cracked long before I bought it.
Hot hide glue was used to close the gap but the repair did not work. The hot hide glue has a low bonding strength and it separated after just a few weeks (a dry house in the winter does not help).
I had difficulty closing the gap with string and ecstatic bands so, I purchased a band clamp designed for furniture repair, so let’s see how that goes.
Clock sans dial bezel
A band clamp might just be the ticket but there is always the risk of the bezel splitting again, perhaps not in the same place. Option two, which I prefer not to exercise at this time, is to fill in the crack and simply live with a slightly larger bezel that may not fit the dial door catch exactly.
There were many choices on Amazon and I selected one of slightly better quality.
When the clamp arrived, rather than apply the glue immediately I clamped it unglued for about a week theorizing that memory in the wood would be retained when glued. Yep, just a theory! In addition, if it were to crack in a different place that would have been the time it would happen.
Since hot hide glue was simply not strong enough I used glue with a much higher bonding strength, Gorilla glue, because it will hold. Perhaps hide glue with a higher bonding strength might have worked but I just don’t have that on hand. I am usually a stickler for authentic methods but sometimes a more modern glue is the only option.
Wolfcraft band clamp
Wax paper is used to prevent any residual glue from sticking to the band and the surface the bezel rests on. The curing time is 24 to 36 hours, the reason for the sticky note. It cured for almost 48 hours. Enough time I would think.
Two large flat-head slotted screws for the hinge hold the wood bezel in place and on went the bezel.
Completed project
And the result after 10 months of working in stages, is a complete and functional banjo clock that, in my view, looks absolutely stunning.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
S. writes;
This clock was in My grandparent’s home since the 30’s (I think). My dad (he’s 96) seems to recall my grandfather winding the clock every day, but I just want to make sure. Can you tell me anything about the clock? Thanks for any info you can provide.
My reply:
It looks like a Junghans 8-day Westminster chime bracket style clock, made in Germany. If you open up the back door do you see a trademark on the back of the movement. Take a photo if you can and send it to me. You do not have to take anything apart to see the trademark. Does the gong have a name on it?
Perhaps he wound it every day because it was part of his ritual but it only requires winding once per week.
S. writes back:
Wow! I didn’t see it before!
Junghans trademarkBack of Junghans movement
S. writes back:
How do I see when it was made?
My reply:
The number below the trademark is A20 which means that it was made in the first 6 months of 1920.
I am an avid collector of antique and vintage clocks which means I cruise the online auction sites regularly, about once or twice a week. This spring I checked out offerings from a local online auction site that deals with estate items, placed bids on 4 clocks (actually 5 since one lot had two clocks). The one I did not win was a 6 column Sessions mantel clock but no real loss there.
I won the bids on four clocks. CDN110 was the total though with buyers’ premium and taxes the price jumped to CDN147, still not bad for a small collection of antique clocks.
I do not have these clocks as of this writing since they are sitting at the auction house but I think can make a preliminary judgment based on what I see in the auction photos.
Although I am normally not in the business of selling clocks I will sell the odd one to keep my collection manageable. The plan is to fix these clocks and sell them to offset clock equipment purchases most notably an Adams Brown Timetrax 185, an electric clock timer, an amplifier that measures the rate of mechanical clocks by sensing escapement action and mechanical sounds of the escapement which I recently purchased. Here they are.
Unknown cottage clock
In no particular order of importance let’s start with an octagon cottage clock from the 1870s or 80s. It is a 30-hour clock judging from the placement of the winding points.
With pendulum and key
From the style of the pendulum bob and the case itself, I would say an E. Ingraham & Co. time and strike cottage clock. Some would have come with an alarm. This one does not.
Side view
It is in fair shape. The dial appears to have serious losses and there are nicks and scratches over a good portion of the case from what I see in the photos. I wonder if the tablet is a replacement and the original reverse painted?
It is difficult to tell with the harsh auction light but the case might be made of rosewood.
Decorative pendulum
It will be a good candidate for a mild refresh and should look very nice when completed.
Sessions Grand Assortment #3
Next is a Sessions Grand Assortment #3. I have worked on one in the past. There are three models in the Grand Assortment series and despite the fact that it is a lowly gingerbread clock and thousands of similarly styled clocks were sold by every major American clock manufacturer, this model is surprisingly collectible.
It is an 8-day clock with a steam-pressed oak case. The case looks very “aligorated” a term applied to a shellac finish that has coagulated as a result of being stored in a hot, humid environment such as an attic or a garage.
The dial is in poor condition
The tablet looks good but the dial is very degraded. This is a paper-on-metal dial and when the metal below the paper rusts the stain bleeds through to the front. This is called “foxing”. These stains are very difficult to remove and cost-prohibitive for most clocks. This is a cheap clock and a dial replacement is the only option and as such, I am not sure what to do about it.
A note is attached to the key and it says 1903. It is doubtful it was actually made in that year and I am sure the previous owner went by the year Sessions Clock Co. acquired clock-maker E.N. Welch Co. though the clock is certainly from around that period.
With a note from the previous owner
Reconditioning the case might be a challenge. Is it a candidate for stripping down to the bare wood? I suspect it is but we’ll see. I also see a small crack just above the top of the dial, so it might have been broken off at one point and re-glued.
I am not sure about the pendulum bob which does not look quite right for this clock. More research should provide me with the answer.
E Ingraham Ocean and Ansonia kitchen/parlour clock
Next is a two-for-one deal.
A duo of clocks
The one on the left is an E. Ingraham steam-pressed 8-day gingerbread possibly from the Ocean series. Unfortunately, it is missing its decorative tablet and that will certainly affect its resale value.
The pendulum looks right for the clock and the case itself looks to be in decent shape but as I said, it is very unfortunate that the tablet is missing.
Pieces of a clock
The pieces at the foot of the gingerbread clock belong to the clock on the right. Usually, when I see pieces like this it tells me that it was handled roughly by the auction house.
What I like about this clock is its timeless design, almost Art Deco but made long before the Art Deco period.
So who is the maker of the clock on the right?
Unknown parlour clock
The auction description simply says, “unknown clock”. I believe it is an Ansonia 30-hour (position of the winding arbours) kitchen clock in Walnut from about the early 1880s. The tablet is bright and vivid, not a design I have seen before but likely original. Attaching the top pieces should be a fairly simple process and thorough cleaning of the clock case clock and movement should make it an ideal candidate for resale.
Of the four, two are 30-hour clocks. I have found that 30-hour clocks are a tough sell. Most casual collectors are looking for an 8-day clock since 1-day clocks are a hassle to wind but I think I can make both presentable enough to attract some buyers.
The auction notes do not say whether any of these are in working order. They are all “untested” which is typical auction-speak for “they may or may not work – the risk is yours!”.
American clocks are very tough and often work well despite being very worn. I suspect with a little encouragement I can get all of these clocks working again.
Now, to pick them up from the auction house.
Check for upcoming articles on each of these clocks.
I am very excited and I hope you are as well to learn that the Tempus Fugit Time Company is pleased to announce the opening of its latest factory in Gackle, North Dakota.
The factory in Shanghai China was unable to meet the increased demand for clocks which inevitably meant expansion into North America.
The decision to switch from quartz clocks back to mechanical clocks was a difficult one for the Tempus Fugit Time Company but necessary in view of the pent-up demand for clocks with gears, springs, levers, and other noises.
Timeville, Ontario factoryand company headquarters
The new and yet-to-be-released Tempest line of clocks will represent the highest quality of clocks made by Tempus Fugit and they will be crafted by noted case designers Woody Bezel and Ben Doolum.
Unfortunately, the Fugit Battery Factory, a major supplier of quartz batteries is a victim of the expansion and will be shut down permanently, however, there will be no reduction in staffing as a result.
Tempus Fugit Clock Companygrandmother wall clock
The factory and company headquarters in Timeville, Ontario will continue in operation producing the Grandnephew Clock (shown above) so popular among young people. Although the Timeville factory is managed by founders Seth Wheeler and Thomas Dealer they will shift their efforts to the expansion into North Dakota.
“It is time for a change and not a minute too soon”, said Mr. Wheeler. “Although it is April Fools Day we believe expansion into North America is the right decision for our company as we move into the 22nd century”, added Mr. Dealer.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
Mauthe box clock
NT writes:
I was wondering if you could take a look a this clock for me. It belonged to my great grandmothers mothers. My great grandma recently passed at 108. I can only imagine the age and value of this clock. I know it’s called Mauthe.
My reply:
Hi and thanks for your email.
The clock looks to be in fair condition although I would remove the cement/putty(??) on the door frame. These clocks do not have a lot of value, probably the $100-150 range. It looks to be from the 1920s, or 1930s. Some were quite large and ornate with intricate wood carvings but your appears to be at the lower end of a model range.
They are known as box clocks because of their style. Mauthe and other makers made literally thousands of them and they sold very well but the company eventually went out of business in 1976.
The movements are quite robust and they will last for years and are easily repairable unless there are serious problems as parts for them cannot be sourced.
If it has sentimental value I would keep it, have it cleaned and serviced and displayed in a prominent location. Most Mauthe clocks have wonderful sounding strike gongs but are not loud tickers.
Schatz and Sohne, the maker of this attractive 8-day carriage clock may not have considered the fact one day their carriage clocks would require servicing. Did they make a throw-away clock? We’ll see.
Many were sold and gifted to family, friends, and business associates. Over the years they have either been tossed out, found their way to antique shops/flea markets, or sat on a shelf never to run again. They are pretty, however!
Schatz and Sohne carriage clock
Were they meant to be repaired and are they fixable? Perhaps.
Just about any clock can be fixed. However, the cost of a professional service would be far more than it is worth but may be justified for sentimental reasons. In the case of this clock a professional service would be out of the question.
I paid $40 for this clock. The seller said that it runs for 4 days and stops. He was quite correct. I wound it fully each time and over the course of a few weeks, it promptly stopped at about the 4-day point. I appreciate the seller’s honesty.
The loss of power that is consistent in this clock’s cycle tells me that there is serious wear at some point in the train. Some might immediately assume that the mainspring is weak but in my experience mainsprings are generally much more powerful than required.
So, let’s see what we have.
Rear showing winding key
Disassembly
A rubber band or two comes in quite handy when employed to hold the four glass sections in place while taking the clock apart. Next, unscrew the key and pull out the small knob used to change the time. Four screws hold the base to the glass sides and top of the clock.
Carriage clocks such as this example are more decorative than functional but are they worth fixing?
The first step in removal is to pull out the works from the base, then, pull off the hour and minute hands which are both friction fit. Next, the dial face and front section are removed by means of two screws that hold it in place. The base is removed from the movement, again, two screws hold it in place.
The movement showing the escape wheel
Once the movement is removed it becomes apparent that three plates are required for the gear train. The design is not far removed from a conventional time-only clock except for the upside-down configuration with an inverted escapement. The third plate is effectively used as mounting points for the dial, the mainspring barrel, and the escape wheel arbour.
Side view of the movement showing the three plates
Six screws hold the plates together. Once the rear plate is removed, the wheels are revealed.
The wheels are very small and the pivots are tiny and easily bent. Though I was careful, I can imagine anyone using brute force to bring the plates together upon re-assembly could easily risk bending or breaking a pivot. Therefore, extra caution is highly recommended.
Some wheels removed
As for wear, everything looked very good except for the second wheel bushing hole which was badly worn, not surprising since the second wheel accepts the full force of the main wheel. Thin brass plates also exacerbate wear.
I believe I “might” have found the cause of the power issue. The bushing hole shown below is elongated enough to cause problems transmitting power up the train.
Elongated pivot hole
That one was the worst by a large margin. All the other pivot holes had acceptable wear and did not require new bushings.
All parts were cleaned in the ultrasonic, the pivots were polished and pivot holes pegged out.
Now for bushing work
I have installed hundreds of bushings on clocks and this one was a real challenge. The pivot on the second wheel is 1.27 mm. The Bergeon bushing I chose has a 2mm diameter. Anything larger would have required removing too much brass making the new bushing potentially loose and unstable. As it stands there is a slight bulging of the brass plate where the bushing is installed.
Because the inside diameter of the bushing was .95mm a considerable amount of broaching out was required to enable it to fit the 1.27mm pivot. The result is a thin sidewall but sufficient to do the job. Using a pivot cutter I reduced the height of the bushing for a nice clean fit.
Just one bushing but a tough one.
New bushing for the second wheel
Reassembly
Reassembly went without issue though I had to refer to the photos I took during disassembly to determine when all those darned washers had to go. Photographing each step in the process always pays dividends in the long run.
Pivot locator
A pivot locator comes in very handy when putting it all together. Using the locator, the pivots are gently convinced to find their respective holes.
Once the escape wheel hairspring peg is pushed back into its post it is time to give the escape wheel a little spin and test the movement prior to returning it to its case.
And the final results
After disassembly, cleaning, addressing a serious wear issue, and testing, the final result is…….yep, it runs 4 days and stops.
I may remove the mainspring from its barrel (not something I did this time) and give it a good cleaning but I think that is it.
Will I go further and perhaps replace a weak mainspring? No! I am not going to put more money into a clock which, at the end of the day, is nothing more than a decoration. It is just not worth it.
There is a thin line between restoring a clock case to its former glory and ruining it forever. While the intent is to make them look like the day they were made, many clocks get stripped and poorly refinished and the results are beyond sad.
Although there is much debate in the world of antique furniture about what is appropriate, in serious antique clock circles, it is never a good practice to remove a finish that has aged well. Original surfaces and their preservation is the concern of every serious clock collector and some clocks must be left untouched.
There are certainly clocks that must be refinished, but that is often a process that is not well understood or practiced.
Clocks that sometimes end up on my workbench suffer from extreme neglect. They are usually found in an attic or barn, covered in filth. My first decision is whether or not they are worth saving and if so, what steps should be taken, what additional parts are required, where can they be sourced and what is the expected outcome.
A $5 barn findwith a finish that is completely gone
Perhaps the best example is a $5 Ansonia Extra Drop wall clock saved from the trash heap.
The same clock, while not perfect, is a survivorand runs daily in my office
Even the movement, complete with rusty mainspring, has found a new lease on life.
A very rusty movement that most would throw out or harvest for parts
The intent was never to save it for re-sale purposes but as a test bed for case refinishing and movement repair.
The same movement,cleaned, wear issues addressed and on the test stand
My approach is to either leave it completely untouched (other than a soap and water cleaning) or go full on, there is no half measure. Some clocks require the full treatment whereas others can be left completely as-is.
This single-weight Vienna Regulator from about 1880 had the movement serviced and the brass polished. Otherwise, the original finish was preserved and that is to be expected of a clock that has been well cared for during its life. There is no requirement to refinish this clock.
Miniature one-weight Vienna wall clock
The value of a clock that has been poorly refinished is severely diminished. When destroyed by well-meaning folks they have little to no value. More is lost in so-called refinishing than many well meaning people realize. However, when the ravages of time, environment, and neglect have taken their toll refinishing is justified.
Another example of a complete restoration.
Literally a box of parts
Junghans Crispi spring driven wall clock circa 1895 .
The same clock, with new parts, refinished, movement serviced
Although some are faded now, many antiques had a near piano finish when new and the finish has simply aged. Like furniture, they are admired for their original finish and polishing brass, like silver, would have been practiced on a regular basis if the clock were still in a home. Antiques must be cleaned regularly and maintained properly so that they may last.
However, correct refinishing of a case is a long and involved process that includes the filling of all the pores in the wood, cleaning sharp edges on corners, the use of traditional glue, fashioning parts from similar wood material used at the time, cleaning the various recesses, staining wood when originally stained, artificially grained when done so originally, painted when originally painted, gessoed gold-leafed details when gold-leafed was present originally, sourcing authentic replacement parts to name a few considerations.
Too many clocks are ruined by well meaning people and that is sad.
In 2020, my wife and I purchased a Scottish tall case clock at a live auction. It had been on our wish list for years, and it checked all the right boxes—tall, stately, attractive, with an easy-to-repair movement and very little missing. However, we later realized that not everything was as perfect as it seemed, and the clock required a bit of tender loving care.
Not a single person in the auction hall showed interest in the clock, and we managed to acquire it for $270 plus fees and taxes. While it’s unfortunate that it went for such a low price, tall-case clocks aren’t in particularly high demand at the moment, and with space constraints in smaller homes today, it’s understandable why they might not appeal to everyone.
It may not be apparent from the photo below, taken that day in the auction hall, but the clock had been neglected for a long time and required a significant amount of work.
At the auction house
The work included repairing the movement and refinishing and repairing a very tired case. However, it was a great learning experience and a true labour of love.
After the movement was repaired, testing continued for weeks, involving small adjustments and waiting for a new suspension spring, pendulum rod, and stake.
Sympathetic Vibration Definition
During testing, I encountered a consistent problem. On day six of the weekly cycle, the clock would stop. As the weights descended to the level of the pendulum a harmonic phenomenon occurred that is defined as “a formerly passive string or vibratory body responding to external vibrations to which it has a harmonic likeness”.
English bell strike movement
When the weights on a tall clock descend to the point where it’s at about the same height as the pendulum, the weights swing slightly. Since the power that drives the pendulum is now swinging the weights as well, the pendulum does not get its share of power and eventually stops.
I addressed the sympathetic vibration by anchoring the clock stand to a wall. What that enough?
Just after the movement was repaired and in its case, the pendulum had just enough over-swing to compensate for the moving weights and the clock would soldier on. But after two years and a little bit of wear, the clock stops at the point where the pendulum is at the same level as the weights.
Sympathetic vibration can often be addressed in a tall case clock by fastening the upper part of the case to the wall, or by mounting the case on a solid foundation avoiding anything soft such as a carpet.
But other measures can be taken if the problem persists.
Scottish tall-case clock
The Solution to the Stoppage
I had attached an anti-tipping wire between the wall and the clock case, thinking it would prevent sympathetic vibration. For a time, it worked, but eventually, the issue resurfaced.
Sponge block illuminated with a flashlight
The solution came in the form of protective packaging from an Amazon delivery—dense black foam blocks placed behind each side of the clock case, at the same height as the pendulum. Occasionally, I have to reposition the blocks, as the vibrating action of the strike causes them to slowly fall over time.
Everything is now put right and this beautiful tall-case clock assembled by William McLachlan from Newton Stewart, Scotland now runs its full cycle without that annoying stop at the six-day point.
Tick-Talk Tuesday is about the letters and comments I have received from readers concerning clock issues, challenges faced, a clock you would profiled or advice on your particular clock concern. For those comments and questions that stump even me, I consult within my clock circles for the best possible answer
GB writes:
Yesterday I pick up another strange clock and the dial has a monogram/mark: EJS, after searching it turns out to stand for E. J. Swigart but that company, from what I read, didn’t make clocks, just replacement parts so am I to assume the clock, images below, has a replacement dial/face? Does it diminish its esthetic value? I was told it is 1840 ogee. Miraculously enough it works!
Ogee clockSwigart replacement dial
My reply:
You are correct. E. J. Swigart made parts for jewelers and watchmakers but they are best known for their replacement dials. Their logo is often confused with the Sessions Clock Co. or Seth Thomas. Swigart are respected for their dials and their commitment to making them as original as possible. They operated into the 1970s (the trademark was registered in 1896). I don’t believe it would diminish the value of your clock, after all, the replacement dial might be over 100 years old!
GB writes back;
Splendid! Thank you again. Your help and advice are priceless.
Daylight saving time in Canada begins March 13th and ends on Nov. 6, 2022.
Do we need it! Daylight Savings Time has no place in our modern world. Of 195 countries in the world, approximately 70 countries observe Daylight Saving Time in at least a portion of the country. Japan, India, and China are the only major industrialized countries that do not observe any form of daylight saving.
At 2:00am Sunday, set your clocks ahead one hour if you live in an area where the convention is still followed.
Regions that typically use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time.
In Canada, we have a little aide-memoire, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.
How to set your mechanical clock(s)
Stop the clock and wait for the correct time, then, restart or,
Move the minute hand slowly clockwise to the correct time, stopping briefly for the quarter-hour on chiming clocks and the half-hour for striking clocks. If you have a movement with a rack and snail you can move the minute hand quickly through the hours as a rack and snail movement is auto correcting.
Do not move the minute hand backward unless the instructions that come with the clock specifically say that it is safe to do so. Otherwise damage to the movement will result. As a general rule I always advocate moving the hands forward.
The time change is a scourge, it is very wasteful and unnecessary in our modern world.
I have written about this clock several times in the past 10 months but I am making good progress which I will detail in this article.
This is how it arrived at my house last spring, dull and lifeless but with good bones and most everything original.
Dirty and dusty and ready for restoration
First, some background information about the clock.
This federal-style banjo clock was made in the 1840s perhaps as early as 1840. I am reasonably certain it was made by John Sawin of Boston, by either himself or one of his apprentices or associates.
The movement and case construction bears a strong resemblance to a Willard timepiece and there is a good reason for this as John Sawin apprenticed under Simon Willard and was a journeyman under Aaron Willard, famous clockmakers of the day and makers of the original patent timepiece.
The movement which is based on the patent timepiece by S. Willard
Unfortunately, there are no identifying markings on the movement or the case but key indicators such as the placement of the movement mounting “ears” and the design of the door and bezel catches tell me that there is a very strong connection to John Sawin, enough to say that he is the clockmaker.
So far…
I have completed repairs on the case aside from the wood bezel mentioned later in this post. The repairs include new veneer pieces, harvested from an old mahogany ogee clock, a new post for the acorn finial, and two applications of traditionally prepared shellac.
The hands are attached to measure timekeeping
The movement has been cleaned, serviced and wear issues addressed.
The glass dial was broken and new flat glass was ordered and installed. The old weight cable was replaced.
The dial, with some stains and discoloring, will be left as-is.
Three issuesthat have slowed me down
The three issues are a weight cable that is too short, a twisted suspension spring, and a cracked wood bezel.
Weight cable that is too short: The clock stops when the weight is three inches from the bottom of the case and runs six days instead of the usual eight. I have run the clock several times and the clock consistently stops on the 6th day. I believe that the brass cable was frayed from wear and a previous owner shortened the cable rather than buy a new one. I have various sizes of cable and have chosen a slightly thicker brass cable with a nylon core. The nylon core prevents the cable from snarling and coiling plus the more robust cable is more than enough to carry the heavy iron weight.
However, a thicker cable results in a double layer. The cord will wind down from the top layer and the diameter of the drum has been increased due to the first layer. This means that with each turn more length of the cord will be removed from the top layer. Thus, the weight will reach the bottom of the case sooner than intended, reducing the runtime. A thicker cord makes it even worse. I believe I have struck the correct balance between thickness and length as the clock now runs its full 8-day cycle. Had the cable been any thicker the runtime would increase.
Since it had to be taken apart to install the new cable I cleaned the pivots, pegged out the pivot holes, and re-oiled the movement. Problem solved.
The Keystone
Twisted suspension spring: The keystone is the piece between the suspension spring and the pendulum leader. It very nearly hits the large wheel of the motion works on the left side as a result of a twist in the suspension spring. A bent spring is a consequence of leaving the pendulum assembly on the movement during transport.
A weight driven banjo clock must be partially disassembled when transporting and damage could result if the steps are ignored.
Unfortunately, I cannot source the suspension spring as a separate item and must purchase either the keystone and suspension spring together from an American supplier or the entire spring, leader, and stake for about $55.00 from a Canadian supplier. It does not make much sense but in the meantime, I have managed to straighten the suspension spring and it is functioning better than it was. Problem partially solved.
Cracked wood bezel: The crack is just above the number eleven on the dial. It was cracked initially and I used hide glue to close the gap. I now realize that hot hide glue I am using has a low bonding strength because it separated after a few weeks (a dry house in the winter does not help).
Cracked bezel
I have ordered a band clamp designed for furniture repair and will use stronger glue. However, I run the risk of the bezel splitting again and perhaps not in the same place. Another option is to fill it and simply live with a slightly larger bezel that may not fit the dial catch exactly. Problem not solved, yet.
There are three iron pin hooks that hold the dial in place. The hooks are twisted inward to secure the dial.
In the meantime, it is keeping perfect time.
Clock face is installed, missing is the wood door dial bezel
I am in no hurry for this clock. It is worth moving slowly with the repairs and ensuring that everything is completed correctly.
A mechanical clock is a machine and all machines require periodic maintenance. Five years might be considered a long time since the movement on a Sessions time and strike mantel clock was first worked on when 2-3 years is the norm between service intervals but let’s agree that it has not been an easy time these past two years and priorities have shifted.
I have not opened this clock up since 2016 and I wonder if any surprises await me. I worked on this clock in 2016, so, it is a judgment on my own workmanship.
Sessions Beveled #2
It was purchased locally from a person who knew absolutely nothing about clocks, making a few bucks on whatever he could get his hands on. He could not tell me one darn thing about it only that it was not working. The case was in rough shape and it was less than $40, so, I bought it.
Although I had worked on several clocks prior to this one, it was an important part of my journey in clock repair because I was now able to put my newly acquired Bergeon bushing machine to the test.
Bergeon Bushing Machinepurchased in 2016
Back then I installed 10 bushings, replaced the pendulum bob and suspension spring, oiled the movement, reinstalled it, and refreshed the case. Not the best timekeeper in the world but that is the nature of spring-driven American clocks of that era (the 1920s).
Disassembly and Inspection
I always approach the inspection and servicing of a clock that I have serviced in the past in much the same way I would service a clock that has just come into my collection. The steps are identical; inspect, restrain mainsprings, clean all parts, peg out bushing holes, polish pivots, address wear issues, assemble, oil and test. This clock is no different.
Backplate off andshowing the helper springs
First, remove the hour and minute hands. Next, put the clock on its face and remove the 4 screws that hold the movement in place. Pull the movement out of the case, place the case aside, and let the mainsprings down into the mainspring retention clamps.
Mainsprings are removed
Never attempt to take apart a spring-driven movement without first restraining the mainsprings. This is a very important first step in clock repair and it is obvious for safety reasons.
Mainspring contained in a retention clamp
During the servicing, as I usually do, I will check all pivots and bushings but most particularly the mainspring clicks which is a well-documented weakness in Sessions movements.
As I began taking the movement apart I noticed a badly kinked suspension spring which will have to be replaced. This usually occurs when a clock is moved without removing the pendulum bob. We have had some home renovations this past two years and the clock has been moved about the house. My fault, actually.
I generally take many photos during servicing but there is no requirement this time since I have kept the photos I took from 2016. However, if anything is noteworthy at this juncture, I will record it.
One item I did not own five years ago was a high-quality ultrasonic cleaning machine. The movement is dirtier than I expected and there is blackish oil around some (not all) of the pivots. I was probably a little overzealous with oiling and perhaps not as careful as I should have been polishing the pivots. It definitely requires a good cleaning and my American-made L&R Quantrex 140 with internal heater will be put to good use.
Ultrasonic cleaner by L&R
I have been working with so many German movements lately I can’t remember the last time I worked on an American one, let alone a Sessions clock. It has been months, so, here we go!
I pulled the plates apart and inspected the movement for wear. There is more blackened oil up the train (mentioned above) than I was expecting which tells me that if not addressed now it will lead to accelerated wear of the pivots and bushing holes and eventual stoppage of the clock. There is the tiniest bit of wear on the 4th wheel back-plate but not enough to justify replacing at this time.
The second wheels, front, and back, which were not attended to then, may now need attention. The good news is that all the replacement bushings from 2016 remain in very good condition.
It looks like at least one new bushing on the strike side wheel, not surprising since it bears the brunt of mainspring power. While there is some wear on the other three I can live with it but the fourth on the strike side back-plate is somewhat oval-shaped as you can see in this photo.
Worn pivot hole on the strike side
Though not as bad as others I’ve seen in American clocks that are well worn, there is enough play in this wheel to justify a new bushing.
TheNew bushing
The click and rivet design are a special problem on Sessions clocks, and I am happy to see that both clicks are in good condition after 5 years. It might be unfair to criticize parts that are nearly 100 years old. The photo shows what a worn click would look like.
Worn click on another Sessions movement
After the parts are cleaned in the ultrasonic and thoroughly dried, the bushing holes are pegged and the pivots polished. Now for the new bushing.
The pivot measured 1.62mm and I chose one with an inside diameter of 1.60mm. After broaching (cutting followed by a smoothing broach) it was a perfect fit.
Now for reassembly. The strike side levers with helper springs under tension can often be a challenge to stay in place during reassembly but the key is patience. Oiling and testing are next.
What did the movement look like after 5 1/2 years? The blackish oil was a little concerning but overall the movement is in great shape. It is certainly cleaner and shinier than before.
This morning I posted an article that was not quite ready for publication. Some of you might have seen it and it certainly looked like a lot of gibberish. I had been working on a number of other articles and just forgot to do my final edits for this one. My apologies. The article has been corrected and there will now be a Part II.
There is no single method of dating an antique or vintage clock but there are some strong clues in some cases and subtle inferences in others that help determine when a clock was manufactured. Occasionally, the exact month and year is displayed somewhere on the case, and in other instances the clock by way of serial numbers, date stamps on the movement, style of hands, spandrels, dial design, case design, and so on, establishes the date to within a certain period.
This is by no means an exhaustive reference but my thoughts on how to date a clock. I will therefore rely on various examples in my collection.
This is the first part of a two-part article. In the second part, I will explore additional clues for determining a clock’s age.
Elisha Manross steeple clock
This Elisha Manross clock is an attractive steeple design. Steeple clocks were made in the thousands from the early 1830s to the end of the century. A steeple clock is a type of mantel or shelf clock characterized by its pointed, spire-like top, which resembles the steeple of a church. These clocks were particularly popular in the mid-19th century and were produced by various American and Canadian clockmakers, including Seth Thomas, Chauncey Jerome, and others.
Elisha Manross steeple clock
Elisha Manross was an important pioneer of the Connecticut clock and lived from 1792 to 1856 and he was the maker of the steeple clock pictured above. A distinctive feature of this particular clock is brass mainsprings.
Brass mainsprings, Manross clock
From 1836 to 1850 brass mainsprings were used in clocks because steel was considered very expensive. It was not until 1847 that the tempered steel mainspring developed for everyday clocks was introduced and with it, the brass mainspring faded into clock history.
This provides an important clue when dating this clock, that it was made before 1850. The second clue is the label located inside the case. Elihu Gere, the printer was in business at 10 State Street Hartford Conn. The printer’s name and address are located on the bottom of the label And this tells us that the printer was at this location until 1847. Armed with these pieces of information one can date the clock from about 1845 to 1847.
Daniel Pratt Jr reverse ogee columns with splat top
Next, is a Daniel Pratt Jr. shelf clock. A distinctive feature of this clock is that it has a woodworks movement. A woodworks movement is a type of clock mechanism/movement made predominantly from wood rather than metal. These movements were commonly produced in the early 19th century, particularly in the United States, during a time when wood was more affordable and readily available than brass or steel. Woodworks movements were very common before 1840 and were considered the first mass-produced clocks.
Daniel Pratt Jr.
Daniel Pratt (1797-1871), Jr., clock-maker, banker, town clerk, and legislator, lived in the town of Reading, Massachusetts, in the 1800s. Pratt did not contribute much to clock-making and was widely regarded as an entrepreneur rather than an innovator.
This particular Daniel Pratt Jr. reverse Ogee shelf clock was made in Reading, Massachusetts, c. 1832-38, within that six-year period. It has a splat-top mahogany case with half reverse Ogee moldings flanking the door, painted wooden Roman numeral dial, mirrored lower tablet, and wood dial face. The mirrored tablet was considered a luxury at the time.
Woodworks movement
McLachlan tall case clock
It is a classic Scottish design from the mid-1800s. The removable bonnet is 23 inches at its widest point, the waist is 15 3/4 inches wide and the base is 20 inches wide. The bonnet has tapered columns on either side. The dial access door which covers the entire bonnet swings to the right. The solid wood access door on the waist measures 9 X 24.
McLachlan Scottish Clock
The well-preserved sheet iron white dial has painted spandrels, each one depicting an ewe with a lamb and a painted arch top showing a man resting on a rock with two working horses directly behind.
English Bell strike movement
The robust movement is made in the Guild style and movements contained in these clocks are commonly called “English bell strikes” with anchor escapements.
McLachlan was not a clock-maker in the true sense of the word but rather an assembler, bringing the dial, clock case, and movement together to assemble into a tall case clock for a particular customer. Signatures on a clock dial may or may not refer to someone other than the clock-maker. 19th-century retailers and distributors often put their own names on clocks in an attempt to ‘brand’ their products. The actual movement may have been made by someone else likely in Birmingham England. 19th-century clock cases were almost always made separately from the movement and are rarely signed.
The name Wm McLachlan, of Newton and Stewart, is inscribed on the dial. In his book, Clock-makers & Watchmakers of Scotland 1453 to 1900 David Whyte lists McLachlan, William, clock & watchmaker in Newton-Stewart, Wigtownshire as a business advertised for sale on 25 May 1852. McLachlan either retired or passed away before the sale date. Newton-Stewart is a former burgh town in the historical county of Wigtownshire in Dumfries and Galloway, southwest Scotland.
This clock was therefore made between 1848 and 1852. The painted dial which originated in or around 1810, the style of the hands, the style of spandrels, the shape of the arched dial, and the shape of the case are other clues that it was made within that period.
Sessions Beveled #2 tambour style mantel clock
This Sessions tambour style clock represents a very popular style of clock sold in the 1920s and 1930s in the USA.
Sessions Beveled #2
It is a fairly attractive mantel clock featuring a toned mahogany finish with faux inlay below the dial face. Faux inlay was an affordable way to enhance a clock’s decorative details and a common feature of clocks of this type in the 1920s.
Label on the inside of the access door
Sometimes, the exact date of manufacture can be pinpointed down to the year and month, making dating straightforward. In this instance, the clock was produced in September 1927.
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
Dating a clock can sometimes be challenging, and unfortunately, this particular clock is difficult to date with precision.
Arthur Pequegnat kitchen clock
In Canada, the Arthur Pequegnat Clock Company produced clocks from 1903 to 1941. Before the First World War, the company operated in Berlin, Canada. During the war, the city’s name was changed to Kitchener in 1917 due to anti-German sentiment at the time. This small piece of information helps to approximate the date of a Pequegnat clock.
Below the six on the dial is the inscription “The Arthur Pequegnat Clock Co. Berlin, Canada,” but neither the case nor the movement provides any clues to narrow the date beyond the period between 1904 and 1917.
I hope the examples I’ve shared provide some helpful insights into dating a clock. This is the first part of a two-part article; in the second part, I will discuss additional clues for determining a clock’s age.
Is it worth the time and expense to have a clock professionally serviced?
That is the question of the day.
I receive many letters from people who ask whether a clock handed down to them is worth repairing/preserving. It is not an easy question to answer. Shared history and stories connected with the clock can be passed down from generation to generation and it is fond memories that keep it alive and consequently, there is a desire to have a clock in running condition. Sometimes it is better to do nothing and simply remember the stories associated with the clock.
If the decision is made to do something, the first consideration is whether or not the cost of preserving or restoring the clock is worth it. If the clock has deep sentimental value, the cost of repair cannot be compared to its resale value.
In the early days of clock collecting, I sent out clocks to be serviced and happily absorbed the cost. I knew then that some clocks cost more to repair than they are worth but I wanted to preserve some and have them operate daily, so, professional repairs were necessary.
Junghans clock before restoration
A case in point
In January 2017 I bought a box of old clock parts (above photo). I was determined to make my German-made circa 1895 Junghans Crispi wall clock into what it is today. It was my first huge restoration challenge. It was a steep learning curve for me but in the end, I was pretty happy with the results.
During the course of restoration, I attempted to repair the movement, which hadn’t run in over a hundred years and made some rookie errors. I had no other course of action than to bring it to a professional in order to correct my mistakes. At the end of the day, the total cost was $475 for the initial purchase plus the servicing.
Last year, after 4 years of reliable running the clock developed an errant strike which required investigation and disassembly (and a good cleaning while I was at it) but I would not blame that on the professional repair. Perhaps it is the nature of that particular Junghans movement requiring the odd adjustment every now and then.
Junghans Crispi wall clock
In the years since then, I have acquired the skills and necessary equipment to perform my own repairs.
Twenty-three of the clocks in my collection are daily runners, all serviced from time to time by myself over the years. I am not a professionally trained clock-maker and some procedures are clearly beyond my capabilities, things such as teeth replacement and repair and fashioning new parts from stock brass. 95% of repairs I can comfortably handle on my own.
Rare E Ingraham Huron professionally repaired
Should you bring your clock to a professional? This is a decision you will have to make after weighing all factors. Know that by relying on a professional you can be assured that years of knowledge and experience go into the repair of your precious clock which becomes part of the cost.
Reputable repairers have the correct equipment to tackle just about any repair, offer a warranty period, and will correct any problems that arise after servicing, often without an additional fee.
Clocks are machines and machines do not last forever, parts will wear and from time to time they, like any machine, require attention. If, after some years, the clock that you had professionally repaired stops, I would have no hesitation suggesting that you return to the same repairer for servicing unless, of course, you had a negative experience.
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