Category: horologist

Ansonia Marquis crystal regulator – a reader’s clock

Ansonia Marquis crystal regulator circa 1904

I asked reader and fellow horologist Bob G. if he could kindly give me permission to profile one of his favorite clocks, an Ansonia Marquis crystal regulator circa 1904. This is a very impressive clock that showcases the best of Victorian style at the turn of the twentieth century.

The photos are Bob’s and I will let them largely speak for themselves. But first some information about the company.

Much has been written about the Ansonia Clock Company. The company’s history can be found here. Formed in 1844 the Ansonia Clock Company had a relatively long life but went into receivership just prior to the infamous stock market crash of 1929. The machinery and dies were sold to a Russian holding company thus ending the long reign of one of Americas best known clock companies.

“…there came an order to supply the Soviet union with men and machines to make watches and clocks, neither of which products ever had been manufactured there. Representatives of Amtorg went to the Ansonia Clock Company in Brooklyn and to the Duber Hampden Watch Company of Canton, Ohio, and bought them lock, stock and barrel. Then they hired most of the skilled employees of the plants to go to Russia and operate the familiar machines. These have been installed in a new, many-windowed building in Moscow, where Russian apprentices are beginning to master the trade.”

An inglorious end to a fine clock-maker. Now to Bob’s clock.

Clock face showing Brocot “open” escapement

Bob writes:

the Ansonia “MARQUIS” crystal regulator mantel clock is an eight-day time and strike with open escapement, jeweled pallets, porcelain dial, thick beveled glass and a brass bezel. The hands and pendulum appear original and it came with an old key which is probably a replacement. There are no hairline cracks or chips that I could see in the dial or the beveled glass. The pendulum is the same as the one shown in the 1904 catalog.

Pendulum bob showing faux mercury in two glass tubes

Ansonia listed the MARQUIS in its 1904 catalog. It may have been produced a couple years either side of that date. The original price in 1904 was a whopping $40.00, not cheap for that time period. $40.00 in 1904 is equivalent in purchasing power to $1107.48 in 2019.

The clock measures 15½ inches high and 7½ inches wide with a 4-inch porcelain dial. The case is listed in the catalog as polished brass, “rich gold” ornaments.

Side view of the Marquis

I purchased this clock as part of a large collection. The owner had passed away, and his grandson was settling the estate. The grandfather had opened a jewelry store and clock shop over 73 years ago and the store is still in operation today.

This clock needed a good cleaning, and the brass was badly tarnished.

Tarnished brass base
After cleaning and polishing

The gold ornaments were left intact to preserve the rich patina.

Ornamental features, the legs and crown

The entire clock was disassembled, and the brass parts were run through an ultrasonic cleaner, then polished.

Back plate, coiled gong and hammer

The movement was also taken apart and cleaned. All the bushings and pivots were in good condition. One of the jeweled pallets needed to be adjusted and reset with shellac.

Trim pieces in place

It took about a week to get this beauty all back together and running again, but it was worth the effort to see it ticking away and keeping great time.

Thank you Bob. A most impressive clock.

The jeweled pallets are made from garnet, a precious stone consisting of a deep red vitreous silicate mineral. Here is an interesting 1905 catalog showing Ansonia’s collection of crystal regulators. Page 24 shows the Marquis with a price increase to $41.80. As Bob pointed out, a hefty price for a clock in its time.

30-hour clocks – four for your consideration

These three 30 hour clocks in the opening photo were serviced in the fall of 2018. The fourth (shown next) is a Waterbury Ogee from about 1870.

It was never my intention to collect 30-hour clocks but I am attracted to this style of clock. Thousands were made, they are surprisingly cheap and come up often on online for-sale sites. Many have the cases that have suffered the ravages of time though these are in very good condition. However, buyers and collectors tend to stay away from 1-day clocks because of the hassle of winding them every day.

I marvel at the engineering and innovative technology of clocks made over 150 years ago and how popular these clocks were in their day.

Waterbury OG clock
Waterbury 30-hour Ogee clock

On the left in the opening photo (and below) is a George H Clark, pre-1850. It features a Jerome-like movement and a wood dial.

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee
George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee
30 hour movement servicing
All of the clocks on this page have similar movements to this Jerome

Touch-ups to nicks and scratches were all that were required to improve the look of the case but the movement required a good cleaning as well as a couple of bushings.

The middle clock (also seen below) is a Chauncey Jerome Ogee clock. The label dates the clock to about 1855-56 just prior to the company’s bankruptcy.

Chauncey Jerome 30 hoir Ogee clock
Chauncey Jerome 30 hour Ogee clock

Eight bushings were installed on this clock. Some of these clocks need a lot of work while others require a good cleaning.

On the far right (and blow) is a Sperry and Shaw 30 hour New York style 4 column shelf clock. The movement was disassembled and cleaned but did not require bushing work. The case was also freshened up.

Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock
Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock with a Canada Clock Co 30-hour steeple to the right

I am fascinated with 30 hour clocks. Yes, they require winding every day but I enjoy it and it has become one of my daily rituals. The sound of the gong is not particularly pretty but it is distinctive. You always know when an Ogee clock is striking in a house.

What other mechanical devices keep running after 150+ years?

At least orient the clock photo!

For sale

Gilbert antique mantel clock

If you are going to sell a clock tell me more about it and why is it sideways? It does not take much to orient a photo! Very annoying.

Is it mechanical or electric? Looks like it is key wound from the rear.

 

Gilbert tambour clock with Normandy Chime – movement servicing

Gilbert mantel clock 1925

This Gilbert tambour style mantel clock is model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert called a Normandy chime. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. Gilbert called this the “Normandy Chime” as it was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France. In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.

Whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area, and for good reason

The Movement

And now to service the movement.

Dis-assembly of the movement is done in the conventional manner with the exception of two items. Both the striking disk (upper arrow) which runs off the cam wheel and the passing strike L bracket (lower arrow) which runs off the centre cannon are friction fit and must be pulled off beforehand to work on the movement. I don’t have a puller but two small screwdrivers positioned across from each other will lift the parts off with minimal effort. Do not polish the ends of these two rear pivots.

Arrows showing striking disk and passing strike L bracket

A prior examination of the movement revealed that it is generally good shape. Overall, the lantern pinions are in good condition with minimal wear. There has been extensive bushing work completed in the past. I see six replacement bushings on the back plate and seven on the front for a total of thirteen which suggests that there was a lot of wear. They are all in very good condition which tells me that the work was done fairly recently.

It also tells me that whoever did the past bushing work chose to avoid the motion works area and for two reasons. It is a tough one to fix because there is so little brass to work with and there is not a lot of torque on this wheel so it can be left as-is.

Although the following photo does not show it well, there is a lot of play in the bushing hole. This is the only one that is addressed in this servicing because I wanted to ensure good meshing of the motion works gears.

Motion works gear with bushing wear

To address the motion works bushing I sought advice from my colleagues at the NAWCC forum site with comments ranging from doing nothing to immediate replacement. The best advice came from a member who suggested I install a smaller diameter bushing and broach out the hole to fit the pivot and that is exactly what I did. A #46 Bergeon bushing was chosen with a diameter of 3mm and an inside diameter of 1.30mm. The pivot is 1.48mm and the result is a side wall that is about 0.80mm. This should allow the gear to mesh nicely and since there is not a lot of torque on this gear the fix should last a long time.

Re-assembling was straightforward. There are no helper springs on this movement so there was no tension pushing on the levers. The only adjustment I had to make was to pull the movement slightly apart to correctly align the stop pin to the stop lever so that the movement strikes as it should.

Arrow showing stop pin (my healing thumbnail from a mainspring that let go)

Since the movement has a Normandy chime the striking hammers are located outside and to the bottom of the movement.

Striking hammer assembly for Normandy Chime

The final process in re-assembly is to attach the hammer mechanism. But before doing so two parts are re-attached, the strike wheel and the L bracket which are pushed back into place. Once in place they can be moved slightly to sync the hourly and half hour strike.

Some folks give Gilbert movements a bad rap but they are not much different than a Sessions, or similar inexpensive movement of that period and the fact that this one is still functioning after over 90 years has to say something for its engineering.

John Plewes and clock repair – a must have reference for Canadian collectors

Although there are two dozen clock books in my collection I am always on the look out for more. Some of my books profile various types and styles of clocks, some explore the history of horology while others are concerned with clock repair and case restoration.

Part of every vacation or daily outing in my province of Nova Scotia or elsewhere in Canada involves scouring the used books stores for clock books. Sometimes I am lucky and manage to locate some good ones but quite often I will leave used book stores disappointed.

This past summer (2018) I picked up John Plewes excellent book entitled Repairing and Restoring Pendulum Clocks, published in 1984.

The table of contents describes what he covers in his book.

Contents of the book
Specialized procedures

Although the book is no longer in print it provides excellent examples of clock repair procedures by describing step-by-step instruction for overhauling and repairing many movements plus the repair and restoration of dials, and cases of antique pendulum clocks. Commonly found clocks that you are likely to inherit or find on online auction sites, flea markets and antique stores are covered.

John Plewes covers clocks from Britain, Canada, the US, France and Germany. There are plenty of diagrams and photos in the book to assist the amateur or expert repair person .

For example, Chapter 4 covers the Pequegnat Regulator #1 8-day movement.

“The finest clock made in America”; Pequegnat advertisement. This clock hangs in the Canadian Clock Museum

The clock is markedly similar to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 shown below.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2

Plewes makes several interesting points regarding the design of this clock. He discusses the difficulty in finding a replacement weight and often the lighter Seth Thomas weight is substituted which leads to the clock stopping after a while. Plewes is surprisingly critical of the #1 at one point stating that the hands are too heavy since they influence the force applied to the train. The pendulum arc changes when the minute hand indicates 20 minutes after, as against that at 50 minutes. The solution, he feels, is to counterweight the hands or install lighter hands. Plewes opines that the whole point of a regulator is to maintain the constant arc and Pequegnat seemed to have missed that point when designing the clock.

Plewes covers a lot of ground in his book. Some of the advice is certainly beyond the skill level of an amateur clock repair person but if you are interested in growing within the world of clock repair and case restoration it will provide an invaluable resource.

Also included are safety tips, shop techniques, and a glossary of terms.

The book was last published over 30 years ago but If you can find it, and are interested in clock repair from a Canadian perspective it is well worth the cost.

Junghans wall clock – Sometimes a small thing can be a pain in the, well, you know

Junghans Crispi wall clock

The problem; a run-on strike. The solution; remove the movement, poke around looking for the cause, find it almost immediately and apply a quick fix.

The story

My winter (2017) project was an antique German Junghans Crispi time and strike spring driven wall clock made in the style of a Vienna Regulator. It was manufactured in Schwenningen, Germany in 1899. It came to me as a box of parts. I put hours of work into this project so a malfunctioning movement was a bit of a disappointment.

When I originally  disassembled the movement for servicing I made two errors. In my attempt to correct a bent star wheel paddle, I managed to snap it off.

Strike paddle

However, I also managed to snap off the paddle wheel arbor spring which is essentially a thin steel wire which maintains paddle tension during the strike. At the time I did not have the right tools to repair the break. Hmm! After a professional servicing, all is right.

Return spring that had become loose after two years (first photos taken of the movement)

Fast forward to 2019

Now, two years later the strike side decided to malfunction. It was striking incessantly. I decided to check out the problem. I took the movement out of the case, removed the clock face and immediately noticed that the strike tension wire had wiggled out of the arbor so that nothing prevented the paddle from stopping, hence the run-on strike. As I mentioned this was one of the repairs made on the clock when it was professionally serviced.

The solution is Loctite. Some purists will scoff but I believe there is place for modern materials in clock repair so long as the repair is functional and discreet. I positioned the spring correctly and applied Loctite where the wire runs into the paddle arbour and allowed it to dry for 24 hours.

After the repair the clock is striking as it should. However, it took me a couple of days to find the correct beat. For some reason this clock must be absolutely level to function correctly. If it is off by just a smidgen it will not run. Anyway, everything is fine now.

Over-winding a clock is a myth

Mainspring barrel

Over-winding a clock is a common myth.

The world of horology reveals an assortment of interesting expressions as well as the misuse of words and terms. For classic example; why do some refer to shelf clocks as Mantle clocks when a mantel is something you wear like a shawl or a cloak? Mantel, such as a shelf over a fireplace, is the correct term.

I want to focus on one very common expression. How many times have you the heard the expression, “it was running fine till I over-wound it”? I have heard it often enough on clock forum, Facebook sites and among acquaintances. It is an ubiquitous expression. Do not blame the last person winding the clock for they are not the cause of a so-called “over-wound” clock or one that stops mysteriously.

Over tightening

While it may be technically accurate that a mainspring can become damaged by repeated over-tightening that is, winding the spring until it is tight, and then continuing to tighten it more just to be on the safe side, there is another reason why this occurs.

Take a spring barrel like the one in the following photo.

Barrel showing a very wide gap
Barrel and winding arbour

When the spring is wound it is coiled tightly around the winding arbour. The other end of the spring has a small hole which is hooked over a small stud, which is riveted into the interior wall of the barrel.

The hole allows the spring to be hooked to the inside of the barrel

The hole in the spring can become fatigued because of years of repeated “over-tightening”, and/or the stamped hook or riveted stud breaks free. “Over-winding” is not the reason.

A dirty movement

American open mainspring clocks “appear” to be “over-wound” because of a buildup of old oil, rust and dirt in the mainspring coil which causes the coil to stick and the spring to seize.

Clocks which might appear to be “over-wound” and non-working can be persuaded to run again by letting down the mainspring completely with a let-down tool, liberally applying mainspring oil and rewinding. This procedure is by no means a substitute for a good cleaning and it does not address other issues that may be causing the clock to stop but it is one step in troubleshooting your clock movement.

It is only when the movement is disassembled and the mainspring is removed from the arbour that you can examine the condition of the mainspring and decide whether to keep it or replace it. Dirt and old oil can be easily cleaned up. Light rust on a mainspring can be removed with emery paper or steel wool; heavy rust and the mainspring should be replaced. Inspect the spring for cracks or breaks. In many situations the mainspring can be saved.

In some cases the click can let go because the rivet securing the click becomes fatigued. For example, Sessions clocks have weak clicks and rivets. Inspection and remediation of a bad click is a typical procedure when servicing a Sessions clock.

Open mainspring click riveted in place.

Do not expect a newly acquired clock to have been serviced recently or at all unless the seller can prove it. Moreover, servicing a mechanical clock on a regular basis is an important part of ownership.

“Over-winding” is one of those terms that one hears quite often and is a very common myth.

Spring comes early this year but not by much! Adjust your clocks

The first day of spring is called the vernal equinox (sometimes also referred to as the spring equinox or March equinox) and it is almost always either March 20 or March 21 though it will fall on March 20 for the next two years in a row. The first day of the spring season is the day of the year when the Sun crosses the celestial equator moving northward.

Spring is often called the season of rebirth and renewal. It is also seen as the time of the year when we Canadians crawl out of winter hibernation and greet longer and warmer days with enthusiasm and renewed energy.

1910 Ansonia Crystal Regulator

In the pursuit of horological interests what will Spring mean for this writer?

This weekend (March 2019) my wife and I are in Fredericton, New Brunswick. Part of our mini vacation is to check out antique shops and flea markets for interesting clocks.

Otherwise, at home I am putting the finishing touches on the servicing of an Ansonia Crystal Regulator and determining next steps for a recently acquired Gilbert tambour clock.

Gilbert tambour style mantel clock circa 1925

Clocks coming up on the bench are an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon for inspection and oiling, another Gilbert Mantel clock for servicing and case repairs and a Jauch wall clock that I am servicing at for a friend.

Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II

In June I am attending the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors national conference in Massachusetts (USA) where I hope to interact with like-minded individuals within the world of horology and perhaps learn new things. I am looking forward to it.

Time to get busy!

Interpreting the numbers on an antique German clock movement

These numbers 34 and 116 are found on most German antique time and strike clocks

On many German antique pendulum-driven clocks, including those made by manufacturers like Mauthe, you’ll often find various numbers stamped or engraved on the back plate of the movement. These numbers serve different purposes and provide valuable information about the clock’s origin, design, and specifications.

In this article, we will explore some of these numbers and explain their purposes.

In the lower portion of the backplate of the movement in question, there are a series of numbers. Some of these numbers have a clear explanation while others are somewhat of a mystery. For example, one number, the beats per minute number, helps a clockmaker regulate the movement during servicing.

Let’s begin with the number 34. The number 34 refers to the measurement in centimeters from the top of the suspension spring post to the bottom of the pendulum regulating nut.

Nomenclature of a German pendulum assembly

The 34 cm measurement includes the following: the top of the suspension spring post, the suspension spring, the pendulum hanger, and the pendulum rod and bob. Within this total length, the suspension spring measures 2 centimeters. The pendulum rod, from the hook to the bottom, measures 26.5 centimeters

The number 116, located next to the number 34 on the movement, refers to beats per minute (BPM). Clock train tables typically express the timing of a movement in beats per hour (BPH). A movement running at 116 beats per minute will have 6,960 beats per hour. This information is invaluable for a clockmaker when regulating a movement during servicing.

Heinrich Kielmann patented hanger

On the movement pictured above is a peculiar number that does not relate to the running of the trains themselves.

The number 55006 is a patent number, issued to Heinrich Kielmann (Ruhrort/Rhein) in 1890 or 1891. The patent concerned the hanging of the pendulum. Kielmann not only manufactured loose movements for other makers but also allowed them to produce their own movements using his patented pendulum hanging system. This is why movements from various manufacturers may bear this patent number.

You might also come across another number.

The number 7137 is a mystery

In the example above, the number 7137 could indicate a production number or a coded method of expressing the date, known only to the manufacturer. Occasionally, numbers may be reversed, as seen in earlier Junghans clocks, or they could represent a production number, where 7137 might correspond to the specific number of this clock within the range of movements produced that year. Without access to the database of Mauthe clocks, the last number remains a mystery.

Should you receive a movement without a pendulum rod, or a bob, these measurements can be invaluable for sourcing replacement parts. Knowing the precise length of the pendulum, the type of suspension spring, and the size of the movement can help you find or fabricate compatible components, ensuring the clock can be properly restored to working condition.

Alternatively, understanding these numbers will undoubtedly deepen your knowledge of clock collecting and repair.

Removing a 30-hour clock movement from its case – how-to video

In the process of adjusting the strike side on a George H Clark 30-hour clock I decided to make a video showing how to remove and install a 30-hour movement from its case.

George H. Clark 30 hour movement
George H. Clark 30 hour movement before servicing

Part of the video concerns the adjustments required for the clock to run correctly but also shows the steps required to safely remove and install a 30-hour movement with a couple of worthwhile tips.

IMPORTANT: In the video, I did not include the fact that the two holes in the movement seat board are access points for pins that insert into the side support boards. Along with the top block they are intended to secure the movement in place. I have five Ogee clocks and none of them had pins when I received them. Inspect the movement mounting first. If you should have a clock with the pins they must be pulled before the movement slides out. (Thank you for pointing this out JC).

Schatz W3 – Installing an 8-rod chime block in a custom made clock case

Some time ago I bought this movement without a case.

Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body

I discovered this Aug Schatz & Sohne W3 (circa 1960) movement at a local antique store for under CAN$20. My wife said, “You should buy that, maybe you can make a case for it”. “Hmm”, I thought; that would be above my pay grade. The movement looked interesting and it was not expensive so, why not! But, having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body but I was confident that one day I would have the solution.

This is a type W3 movement. “W3” refers to three chime tones, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster.

Rear plate
Rear plate of the W3 movement showing chime selector and chime/strike hammers

I put out a plea and two people contacted me to say they had a case that would fit. One lived in Australia and the cost of shipping the case was too high. Another corresponded twice but I sensed he realized that his case would not fit. So, I put the movement away. On a positive note it runs well.

Schatz and Sohne W3 movement installed in a custom case

The pursuit of a custom made case

In the spring of 2018 my son’s girlfriend suggested that her grandfather could build the case. He loves doing this kind of work, she said. Although skeptical at first, I accepted her offer. Though a skilled craftsman her grandfather is over 90 years of age but spends as much time as he can in his woodworking shop in rural Virginia. He agreed to do the work. I sent the measurements to him but he preferred to have the movement in hand so it was sent to Virginia. He was able to use the movement as a guide in constructing the case. The clock was returned to me in December 2018 and it looked absolutely perfect.

Now to the installation of the chime block

The dimensions of the case allowed ample room to place a chime block. The block and rods are 7 1/2 inches long but even so there was not much room to spare on one end. The 8-rod chime block is from a Canadian clock supplier and is designed for a Hermle triple chime movement. There are not a lot of 8-rod chime blocks available through suppliers and given that I had little choice I had to assume that it would work for my clock and it does!

This video describes the placement of the chime block and some experimentation to achieve the optimum sound.

The tapered sections of the rods are an inch long and the hammers must be positioned to strike the wide point of the rods for best results. The oak base was trimmed to fit, allowing for about an eighth of an inch between the rods and the hammers. To close the distance to the rods the hammer wires are bent and centered on the rods. As they are brittle, chime rods should never be bent!

Chime block and oak piece forming the base

Once I was satisfied that the chime block was correctly positioned the block was secured. First I screwed the chime block to the hardwood base with 4 brass slotted screws. And finally, I secured the chime block through the base using two 1 1/4 inch slotted screws through pre-drilled holes.

I gave the case one more coat of shellac before putting it on display.

I am impressed with the outcome. Not all movements have such a happy ending.

Lessons learned restoring grandfather’s old clock

Photo of Waterbury time and strike wall clock sent to me by my cousin

I’ve thought about this clock, dreamt about it, wondered where it was all these years……and now I have it. I was confident that I could do something with this clock since I had just finished a major restoration project.

I had no idea that the clock I was getting was a movement in a homemade case

I have a vivid memory of this Waterbury octagon short drop time and strike schoolhouse clock that hung in my grandparent’s kitchen when I was a young boy. After church on Sundays, my father would take (drag?) us kids for a visit; it was a weekly ritual. The house was stone quiet except for the sound of a clock ticking loudly in the kitchen. My grandfather was a veteran of WWI and was bothered by noises, shell shock they called it, but he did not seem to mind the rhythmic sound of a mechanical clock.

When I was a kid in the 1950s it looked impressive.

So, I jumped on this project and have learned a few things along the way.

The following are lessons learned restoring grandfather’s old clock.

When it comes to family, lower your expectations

I made some inquiries within the family and when I first saw a photo of grandfather’s old kitchen clock and discovered that the case was homemade I was very disappointed. I had no idea that the clock I was getting was a movement in a homemade case. The original case, long gone is but a family mystery. Nevertheless, my cousin said, “You can have it”.  I wondered what I would do with it. I explored several options but at the end of the day I wanted a working clock no matter which direction I took.

Work with what you have rather than dream of significant changes

I could have radically altered the appearance of the clock completely but would it be the same? It is a philosophical dilemma. If too much is done to restore a clock it is not fundamentally the same and cannot be considered original. The homemade case is crude and made some 30-40 years ago but it is part of the clocks history. The chicken pecks on the clock face tell the story of a clock that likely sat in a barn for many years.

Envision what the final outcome should be before you begin and resolutely stick to your plan

Should I restore the clock or preserve what I have? It was an interesting dilemma.

My options:

  1. Do absolutely nothing.
  2. Take the movement out, find an appropriate period donor case or
  3. Make some minor changes but preserve the provenance

I chose #3 for several reasons:

  • To preserve the bygone times of a clock passed on through the family, despite its many warts
  • Labour aside, it was cost effective; my entire monetary outlay was less than $50
  • Ignoring aesthetics, the case was crude, heavy but very sturdy and should last forever

Be content that the clock tells a story no matter how ugly or homely it might look

It may not be the prettiest clock on the wall but it will be a great conversation piece and after 70 years (??) it is finally functional. I can only imagine my grandfather standing under the clock, comparing the time with his pocket watch and deciding if he should make just one small adjustment.

Retouched dial face

Changes I made

  • Sanded, stained and shellacked the case
  • Brass bezel was separated from the dial bezel (don’t ask me why the two were screwed together), new bezel hinge installed, and door catch
  • New convex glass dial installed
  • Brass was cleaned and polished
  • New clock hands
  • New pendulum, pendulum rod, verge and crutch
  • Movement completely serviced, several bushings installed
  • New hinged access door made from century old clock case wood

After servicing, a fully functional Waterbury time and strike movement

What I did not change

  • The overall “character” of the clock
  • The holes in the brass bezel were left as-is; it is what it is
  • Dial is original though touched up in some areas; I considered a new paper dial but decided to retain the original and came very close to matching the colour of the dial face
  • The case is made of thick plywood; it is utilitarian, very solid and will likely outlast the movement

Yes, it is ugly but it works and it tells a story

Final thoughts

I am actually very pleased with the outcome. The changes manage to preserve the provenance but not enough to radically alter the look of the clock such that it is. It is now worthy of being placed on a wall and it will certainly occupy a prominent spot in my home, plus, it tells a fascinating story.

Here is the story told by yours truly.

A Smiths Enfield mantel clock comes back to life

Smith Enfield time and strike

Smiths Enfield mantel clocks are highly regarded by beginning clock collectors due to their popularity, abundance, and durable movements. For amateur clock repairers, they offer relatively few challenges.

I acquired my Smiths Enfield time-and-strike clock in 2013 from a young clock tinkerer in Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, but it was never a reliable runner. It would only run for a few minutes before stopping. Eventually, the clock was set aside and left in a corner of my shop.

Post war English time and strike movement

While not an especially attractive clock it embodies the utilitarian design typical of post-war English clocks from the late 1940s and early 1950s.

After several months and armed with new knowledge of clock repair, it was time to take a second look.

About Smiths Enfield

The Enfield Clock Company (London) Ltd. was established in 1929, with its first clocks sold in 1932.

The company utilized modern assembly line techniques to manufacture and assemble its clock movements, inspired by the American system of automated factories. Initially, clocks were sold wholesale and for export, with the movements supplied to shops that would then assemble the cases themselves. Enfield took pride in producing “British-made” clocks. However, in 1933, facing difficulties competing on price, the company was sold to Smiths Industries, which led to the name change to “Smiths Enfield”.

In 1935-1936, they introduced a striking 14-day clock in a Jacobean Oak case, which helped solidify the company’s position in the market. With the outbreak of war in 1939, the factory shifted to wartime production. While clock production continued, material shortages became a significant challenge.

After the war, American machines were allowed to be kept and production of the 53mm movement re-commenced. Production was later moved to the Smiths factory at Cricklewood and then later to their Welsh factory in about 1955. Under Smith Industries the production line was changed to watches. Ultimately all clock production was phased out and the company closed shortly thereafter.

A New Suspension Spring?

I serviced the clock in 2015, and it needed bushing work. Since the wear wasn’t severe, I thought I could delay it for another two years. However, the clock has not been running since then. At the time, I knew little about the purpose and function of a suspension spring, and since I assumed the one that came with the clock was correct, I thought there must be another issue causing the clock to run poorly.

Suspension spring post

It’s time to revisit the suspension spring to determine if that’s the issue.

Suspension spring location

Over the past four years, I have accumulated an assortment of suspension springs and, through trial and error, found one that is either correct for the movement or very close.

The suspension spring has a mounting hole on one end and a small T-bar on the other where the pendulum hangs. I replaced the old spring with a shorter, more flexible one. As a result, the clock started running. In the first week, it lost about five minutes, but after making minor adjustments to the pendulum length, the timekeeping improved with each change.

The takeaway from this is that the correct suspension spring is crucial to whether a clock runs, and it should be considered as one of the potential reasons when a clock is not working.

A new & exciting direction in clock collecting & repair

Front room collection

I have been collecting clocks for over 8 years. In that time I have enjoyed my hobby immensely and I am constantly on the lookout for new and interesting acquisitions. It is more like a daily passion.

However, I now realize that as my collection steadily grows I have more than I need or want. I cherish some of my clocks and intend to keep them for years; my Arthur Pequegnats, selected Seth Thomas clocks, clocks made by the Hamilton Clock Co. and the Canada Clock Co., my Vienna regulators and some of my German wall clocks. I don’t mind parting with other clocks now or in the foreseeable future. Some I will miss and others I will not.

A house can only hold so many clocks

My daughter correctly pointed out that I should adopt a one clock comes in another goes out approach. “One-in, one-out”, she says and it makes perfect sense.

A house can only hold so many clocks. In my small office which is 10X12 I have a total of 15 clocks, 10 of which are running daily and the remainder in various states of repair. Outside my office, at any given time, there are 26 clocks in a number of rooms around the house. I am not one of those persons on YouTube who feel the need to cover their walls with clocks. I prefer to display them in a natural way, as an integral part of the decor of my home. The number is not all that important but I am trying to keep it manageable.

Kienzle clock on display with Ingraham Huron
Kienzle World Time clock and Ingraham Huron balloon style shelf clock

I have decided that now is the time to sell some of my clocks. My objective is not to make money but to recover the cost of the original purchase plus my labour on each clock that I sell. These are the clocks that have left my collection recently.

I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection
Mauthe Westminster chime mantel clock, circa 1950
Juba Schatz Bim-Bam mantel clock, circa 1948
Four spandrels surrounding the chapter ring
Hermle Westminster chime with moon phase circa 1985

I have also gifted eight clocks over the last 3 years and most have been mantel clocks. Antique and vintage clocks make wonderful gifts to friends and family. It is cool to see them displayed and running in their homes when I visit though I know darn well that they are wound just hours before my arrival.

On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”

As my knowledge of the clock world grows and my experience repairing and restoring them expands I am making more critical choices when adding pieces to my collection. However, those critical choices often translate into spending more money. For example, recent acquisitions have been a Seth Thomas Regulator #2 and an Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, both wall clocks.

Seth Thomas Regulator #2, time-only, weight driven clock Circa 1922
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton, double spring time only clock, Circa 1930

I believe my new approach is a natural progression and perhaps I have been subconsciously heading down that path for a year or more. Unless a clock has an interesting provenance, is rare, uncommon, unique and/or is a challenge to restore I will now shy away from most of the garden variety clocks one sees on online for-sale sites and yes, I still have a few of those.

On a clock forum site recently someone said’ “How many clocks do you need”. The answer, “Just one more”.

I knew during the course of collecting antique and vintage clocks combined with increased knowledge/experience that my hobby would evolve and continuing my horological journey in a slightly different way is about time,

100,000 clock blog views – onward and upward

My workshop

100,000 views, Wow!

In the late spring of 2015 I attended a workshop on WordPress blogging at the local community college. I was impressed with the power of blogging. I had already begun collecting antique and vintage clocks and so, it was a good time to begin a blog and share my horological interests and experiences. This was my very first post 3 1/2 years ago.

The first few months were very discouraging. I am sure that those of you who are bloggers know what I mean. It takes time and patience to build an audience and it also takes time to build a ranking on various search engines. I was getting very few page-views, I struggled with the content and tried to envision what my audience would like to see but more importantly what I wanted to convey in my blog articles. I never considered myself a stellar writer but I was enthusiastic and I wanted to give it my best shot. I observed what other bloggers were doing, what made their sites engaging, took some tips from WordPress and other online sources and adopted a style that suits me.

Learning to replace lantern pinions

In the fall of 2015 there was an encouraging uptick in daily page-views. I also began to realize that I had to not only appeal to those with a modest interest in antique clocks but those with a deeper knowledge. My blog was never intended to satisfy expert horologists and those in the clock trade though I don’t mind if they drop by from time to time.

I have received many comments. Some offer suggestions and advice on projects I am working on while others are looking for direction on their particular clock problem. I provide whatever assistance I can.

Installing a new clasp on a Pequegnat Bedford

I graciously accept any criticism because that is an important part of my growth as a clock repair person.

Stats – the lifeblood of a blog

Like it or not, statistics or analytics as Google calls it, are the lifeblood of a blog. The best day was in January 2019 when I hit 267 page-views. However, on average I receive 100 daily page-views and about 800-1000 page-views per week. I have been viewed in 100+ countries and the top 6 viewers are in USA, Canada, United Kingdom, Australia, South Africa and Germany. I am encouraged by the steady rise in interest from mechanical clock fans around the world and share their enthusiasm.

I also discovered that writing articles well in advance and scheduling specific publication dates really helped with planning particularity when I am vacationing and cannot find the time to write.

My work area in 2019

My basement shop where I work on clock case restoration

Yes, there are days and months when the stats dip a bit but that only encourages me to take a second look at article content, learn to explore new areas of interest and make the learning fun. My regular features, Tick Talk Tuesday, Crazy Clock Ads and What Is This Thing For look at the lighter side of clock collecting and repair.

If you are new to my blog, welcome. There is plenty to read. If you are a regular viewer please share your views and comments and if you have any ideas for future articles let me know.

In clock restoration circles small details can make a big difference

Small details added during clock restoration projects can change the appearance of clock in a positive way. In this article I will describe how adding a piece (actually two), that should have there in the first place, will make all the difference.

During the fall (2018) I spent a considerable amount of time restoring a Vienna styled time and strike German made FMS Mauthe spring driven wall clock. Restoration involved completely stripping and refinishing the case and fully servicing the movement. My wife commented that the transformation was dramatic and of course, I graciously accepted the compliment.

For some reason many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers

Before

And….

After

Restoration included adding an arched door insert above the dial and a new centre top finial. Otherwise, the clock was complete except for one small item, the 2 wall stabilizers. Why would they be missing? A thumbscrew might go astray during a servicing and rather than find a replacement it is too easy to take both off and discard them.

Clock case stabilizers

Many wall clocks are missing their side stabilizers. Check the rear backboard of a wall clock without stabilizers. You might find two small holes on either side of the case near the bottom indicating it once had wall stabilizers. Otherwise if you do not find those holes, the clock was never meant to have them.

Once the beat is set, level the clock on the wall and set the stabilizers by screwing each one into the wall. The stabilizers will compensate for any wall vibrations and the movement of the case during the weekly winding.

Right side stabilizer

Some stabilizers are unique to brands such as Ansonia and Gustav Becker. This, however, does not mean that they are limited to these movements, they are interchangeable. The stabilizers you see here are advertised as Vienna stabilizers.

Left and right stabilizers are barely seen but preform an important function

All clock suppliers carry stabilizers. I ordered a pair and simply re-used the screw holes on either side on the backboard to attach the stabilizers.

Are they absolutely necessary? No! Can a clock run without them. Yes! Yet, it is an often overlooked detail that might make all the difference.

Crazy Clock ad – do you know what you are selling?

Advertised clock

Okay, here’s the description.

Carved pine antique mantle Grandmother clock circa 1900

“Pine”, “1900” and “antique” might be correct but what style is this clock? It is not a Grandmother clock but commonly known as a kitchen clock or a Gingerbread clock. It is not carved but steam pressed and tens of thousands of these were made.

If you are going to ask $125 you had better know what you are selling, who the maker is, what kind of clock it is, any issues and the overall condition.

Antique and vintage wall clock collection

one-weight Vienna wall clock

It has taken me 6 years to assemble my collection of antique and vintage clocks. Although I have many clocks, wall clocks are my particular favorites. Check out my collection of antique and vintage wall clocks in this YouTube video I made in January 2019.

Feel free to comment.

What is this clock thing for? #4 – the Geneva stop

You will not see Geneva stops on many clocks but if you do here is an explanation of how they work and how to set up the stops.

EN Welch Whittier parlour clock circa 1895, time and strike movement with Geneva stops

Most American clock movements do not use the middle portion of a long & powerful spring but use most, if not all of the mainspring. Geneva stops address this power issue. They are found on better quality antique movements made by American manufacturers. They are set so that when winding the mainspring you can only wind so far and then no further. As we know, clocks can’t be “over-wound” and this lets you know where the definite stopping point is.

On weight drive clocks Geneva stops are used to prevent undue force coming on the pendulum by jamming the weight against the seat board.

Stop works are used as a compromise by utilizing only the middle portion of a long and powerful spring, which varies too much in the amount of its power in the fully wound and completely released positions to get a good rate on the clock if all the force of the spring were utilized in driving the movement.

Removing the stops will do no harm to the movement but it will not release power as originally intended

You will notice a long “finger” (long point of upper star) on one of the Geneva stop gears and a wider gap (shallow groove of lower star) on the other. You set these up so that when the proper number of turns are completed the long finger meshes with the wide gap, thus preventing any further turning.

Strike side stop in lock when long point of upper star is engaged in shallow groove of lower star

You will need a letdown set to release the springs

Setting up the Geneva stop

Wind up the spring and then let it down slowly until the stop work is locked, counting the number of turns and writing it down. Then, hold the spring with your let down key and remove the stop from the plate; then count the number of turns until the spring is down and also write that down. Alternatively, wind the mainspring until it winds no further, release the mainspring with your letdown key one complete turn and set the stop. It may take more than one try to set it up correctly.

Don’t worry if they have been removed

On many antique clocks these have been removed because the repair person did not know what to do about properly setting them up.

Geneva stops removed

Removing the stops will do no harm to the movement but it will not release power as originally intended.

FMS Mauthe “Horse Crown” wall clock – servicing the movement

Most refer to the name “Horse Crown” when describing this clock and it is easy to see why. Many would also consider it a Vienna Regulator style of clock. I have been putting off servicing this movement for a while and a long time has passed since it was properly serviced. So, let’s get started. First, some background.

Mauthe “Horse Crown”

The clcok was complete save for a missing bottom centre finial. I installed a new one shorty after I bought the clock

Clocks such as these are  often missing not only a  finial or two but the crown and other parts so this clock is in good condition.

Replacement middle finial

Year it was made and a history of the company

From my research, the trademark on the front plate tells me that the movement was made between 1895 and 1914 though the exact year of manufacture is unknown. Mauthe trademarks are very distinctive and from the trademark design, one can place the clock within a specific period of time. Unfortunately, the production number on the movement is a mystery as there is no known database for Mauthe clocks.

Trademark, production number, length of the pendulum (34cm), BPM (116) & patent number

Mauthe clocks have had a long and illustrious German history. In 1844 Friedrich Mauthe and his wife Marie founded the company in Schwenningen to produce watch parts. They were very successful through the years and diversified in several areas but after 1946 following the production of wrist watches the company gradually fell into decline.

This clock reminds me of what Forest Gump once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”

Now let’s open it up

The clock hung on my living room wall for three years. When I bought it I knew that it would eventually require servicing but there were so many other projects on the go, it could wait. The clock ran for several months at a stretch and there were months that the clock did not run at all. So, now that other projects have been completed the time is right for a thorough servicing.

Mauthe wall clock with new bottom centre finial

Forest Gump once said, “life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get”. When inspecting any antique clock movement for the first time I have learned to expect just about anything.

As I move through any project my intent is not necessarily to correct mistakes of the past since they are an important part of the clock’s history but to ensure that past repairs do not cause me grief in the future. If it is a crude but functional and sturdy repair, I will generally leave it alone. I have learned that past repairs are part of the history of the clock.

When I took the movement out of the case I discovered something quite interesting. The dial is not original. Yes, it is a Mauthe dial but not for this clock. Two brass strips are fastened to each side of the front plate to accommodate a replacement dial. The added holes drilled into the side braces tell me that it once has a slightly smaller dial.

I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity

I am sure that those of you who are collectors have experienced the dilemma of identity. When I bought my first Vienna Regulator I began to realize that many parts were replaced over the years and it made me wonder what is original and what is not. It as an unwinnable argument and I have learned to accept the notion that it may not matter to me or to a casual observer who would not think of questioning whether a clock and its parts are original.

Two extensions, soldered to the sides to accommodate a replacement movement

But, let’s move on. A repair was made to the strike hammer which appears to have broken off at one point. Again, a rough but solid repair.

Hammer repair, you can see a pool of oil on the pivot to the left

The clock was coated in oil which was dripping down the plates. However, in terms of its general condition, there is surprisingly little wear. Perhaps the liberal application of oil had a hand in preserving the movement but I suspect that it did not run much over its life.

Mainspring servicing using the Olie Baker spring winder

The mainsprings are enclosed in barrels. I opened up the spring barrels to service the mainsprings. The mainsprings are in good shape with no evidence of rust. They cleaned up nicely. Broken mainsprings in German clocks can be problematic. Severe damage can result in missing mainspring barrel teeth and broken lantern pinions when the mainsprings let go, a challenge for any clock-maker.

Top plate removed

Strike side levers, escapement

The movement was disassembled and the parts were cleaned in my L&R ultrasonic cleaner. The springs and barrels were cleaned separately. All parts were washed in warm water and dried. Finally, the pivots were inspected and polished. Although this movement has a count wheel between the plates with levers much like an American time and strike there are no annoying helper springs to frustrate the re-assembly process.

After lubricating the mainsprings with Keystone Mainspring Lubricant, I put the movement together without the levers to check end-shake, meshing and the condition of the pivot holes. Two lantern pinions had some flat-spot wear but not enough to warrant replacement. Two pivot holes are slightly enlarged on the third and fourth wheel strike side but not so bad that they need immediate attention. If I were in the business of repairing clocks for a living I would bush those two and repair the lantern pinions.

Parts are cleaned & positioned, ready for the front plate

To reassemble the movement I secured the bottom front plate nuts to the back plate and then positioned the pivots into their holes working upwards. Once the pivots are in place on the strike side I attach the third nut loosely and continue guiding the pivots and the two lever assemblies in place. Unlike American movement which have larger pivots, care must be taken not to force the relatively small pivots into their holes.

Much like an American time and strike movement, the cam lever must be in the deep part of the cam while at the same time the count hook is in the deep slot on the count wheel. I made a note of the position of the stop wheel beforehand and in so doing managed to correctly position it on my first attempt.

I generally run a movement for an hour or so without lubricant to determine if everything is functioning properly. No point in oiling the movement repeatedly if it has the be dis-assembled to correct an issue. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running as it should, I apply oil to the pivot holes.

Having the movement out gave me an opportunity to clean up the case, paint the gong mount and movement rail and give the entire case two coats of shellac (traditional 1 lb cut). The movement is now reinstalled in the case.

With respect to my comments concerning the pivot holes and lantern pinions, putting the movement on a shorter 2-year cycle will enable me to monitor wear.

Crazy Clock Ads – would you buy this clock?

If you are going to sell a clock this is certainly not how to do it. The image (and there is only one image) is blurry and the person holding the clock looks like they are in their Pajamas. Plus, there are absolutely no details about this clock in the ad, just the price.

Great photos taken from many angles and a thoughtful description are fundamental to selling any clock.

George H. Clark 30-hour Ogee clock – in very nice shape

George H. Clark 30 hour Ogee

Wood dial removed

This George H. Clark 30-hour shelf clock is a very good example of Connecticut form. The case form is called and “og” or “ogee”. a mathematical term that describes the “S” curve shape in the primary molding that surrounds the door.

The clock has a brass time, strike, weight driven movement with original printed paper label on the interior reading in part “Made and Sold at/46 Courtlandt St/New York…. George H. Clark”. It measures 28 x 17 x 4.5”. This rectangular shaped case is decorated with nicely grained mahogany veneers. The veneer has very little if any losses. The one blemish on the top is auction label glue which took off some of finish but was later retouched with shellac.

The upper section of the door is fitted with clear glass. Through this one can view the painted wood dial. The wood dial tells us that it is an early pre-1850 clock. This dial is formatted with a Roman numeral time track. The lower section features a beehive painted tablet. The tablet is a replacement but fairly close to what would have been there at the time.

Wood dial in fair shape; the spade hands might not be original, veneer is stripped where an auction label was placed

An online search for “George H. Clark clocks” or “Clarke” turns up various references at 46 Courtlandt Street, anywhere from 1844 to 1847. They mention a George H. Clark (no “E”) in Bristol in the early 1840’s, and then in New York City in the late 1840’s. He is said to have sold Ogee clocks with 30-hour brass weight movements. Spittlers and Bailey, an important source for Ogee clocks of this period, mention George H. Clarke (with the “E”) and they indicate a label with the words “Made and Sold at 46 Courtlandt St.”

Good label and original pendulum bob

They say “No date” for this Clarke. Two different people? A name like Clark/Clarke, may be variants of the same basic name and the same person.

The pendulum bob is also 1840s in style.

Coil gong

The label is in good condition. In pencil below the address are the initials “GLD” plus the date “Dec 29” that may ether refer to a day in the month or the year 1929. A service date perhaps. The overall look of the label is 1840-50 in style.

There is a screw to the right of the gong. Screws in this location are used to anchor the clock to a wall and are common as clocks such as these are top heavy when the weights are wound fully to the top of the case.

George H. Clark 30 hour movement
George H. Clark type 2.411 30 hour movement, possibly Waterbury but unmarked

The movement looks like an early (but unmarked) Waterbury, ca. 1860 type 2.411. Waterbury movements have “quarter-round” corners, while most other ogee movements tend to have the “tombstones” or plain rectangles. The movement could have been swapped but It’s hard to tell because it appears original to the case.

Everything except the movement points to a period between 1840-50.

Aside from touching up the slight damage on the top part of the case there is nothing else to be done. The movement? That will have to be taken out and serviced but I will leave that to another day.

New Haven 30 hour Sharp Gothic (Steeple) – a curious fact

New haven Gothic Steeple clock

This is a recent acquisition bought at a local online estate auction site. It has a curious fact that I found quite intriguing.

My wife and I saw a very attractive colonial style Stickley writers desk and while browsing further through the online catalogue I noticed 2 clocks. One was an IBM style time clock and the other was this, a 30 hour New Haven Sharp Gothic (steeple) time and strike clock.

Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose but we do not get caught up in the fever of bidding

Early in the day we put a maximum bid of $60 on the Stickley desk and $40 on the steeple clock. As we often do, we let the bids stand while we go about our day. Our usual strategy is to apply the most we think we would pay. Sometimes we win and sometimes we lose but we do not get caught up in the fever of bidding. At the end of the bidding day, we discovered that we had won both items. Of course, as auction goers know there is a buyers premium and a tax on anything you “win” which adds to the price.

Stickley is an American maker of fine furniture and is best known for their timeless mission style designs. We are pleased to have won a well-made and attractive little desk that is a great addition to our sun-room. The fact that It is in exceptional condition is a plus.

Stickley writing desk
Stickley writing desk circa 1940

The New Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers

The other win was a $40 steeple clock. Steeple clocks, otherwise known at the time as Sharp Gothics, were made from about the 1830s to around 1900. This is a 30-hour clock which is easily recognizable from the front face by the close proximity of the winding holes to the centre arbour.

History of the New Haven Clock Co.

The New Haven clock Co. produced clocks for over 100 years. In 1853 the Haven Clock Company was founded in New Haven, Connecticut by Hiram Camp (1811‑1892) and other clock-makers. The company’s mission was to mass produce inexpensive brass clock movements for use in clocks. In April, 1856 The New Haven Clock Company eventually bought out the Jerome Clock Company. They moved their production to the former Jerome factory and New Haven began making clocks under their own trademark. In 1870 some of New Haven’s clocks were marketed under the Jerome & Co. brand. Early unmarked movements were Jerome designed.

In 1885 the company stopped selling clocks other than their own New Haven brand. In 1890 the company developed serious financial problems and efforts were made to keep it solvent until 1897 at which time the company emerged after reorganization. In 1902 Walter Chauncey Camp (1859-1925) began to turn the company around. In 1923 Walter Camp stepped down as head of the company and was succeeded by Edwin P. Root.

In 1929 Richard H. Whitehead replaced Root as president of the company but New Haven again faced financial difficulties compounded by the Great Depression in November, 1929. Whitehead was able to keep the company afloat during these troubled times and the firm regained profitability. From 1943 to 1945 the company turned to the war effort, producing products almost exclusively for military use. In March of 1946 The New Haven Clock and Watch Company became the new name of the firm after it reorganized once again. It returned to what it did best before the War, making clocks and watches.

The 1946 reorganization eventually leaves the company vulnerable to foreign investors and it lost control to a consortium of Swiss watchmakers. The man who had successfully shepherded the company through the hard times of the Depression years, resigned as president. In 1956 the New Haven Clock and Watch Company filed Chapter 10 bankruptcy in a U.S. court. Its fortunes had declined precipitously since Whitehead’s departure and it never recovered. In 1960 the company went out of business and the production lines closed. The facilities were sold through a combination of public auction and private negotiation in March of 1960. After over 100 years the company was no more.

My auction win

This New Haven clock is in very good condition apart from minor veneer issues on the base and the columns. The clock is also missing the very tip of the right finial although it might be hard to tell from the photo. It measures 20 1/2 inches tall with a 5-inch dial. The movement appears to be original to the case. The dial is original and has some loss that would be expected in a 148-year-old clock. What I thought was a photograph taped to the lower glass is the original tablet. The tablet is interesting because it features a sailboat against Greek (?) temples surrounded by gold foliage on a black background. The design of the tablet was used in other New Haven clocks of the time. Though likely intended for European export the clock found its way to Canada instead.

Eight-day clocks eventually replaced 30-hour clocks 1865 to 1870 seems about right

Lower tablet
Lower tablet

Now for a curious fact!

In my attempt to date the clock I found some information that narrows the time frame somewhat. It has an almost perfect label save for some staining on the bottom left. There is an over-pasted square blue coloured label on the bottom centre from a clock retailer in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada. As regular readers know, Halifax is only an hours drive from my home.

The small blue label says, “Thomas D. Spike, watchmaker and jeweler”. I accessed an online database and found that the business was listed in the 1869-70 City of Halifax business directory, however, I could not find how long the business was in operation. Logically, I can assume the clock came from his shop and is from that period.

Thomas D. Spike, watchmaker and jeweler, Halifax, Nova Scotia

According to one source the tapered escape wheel bridge was introduced around 1870. The tablet style is typical of the 1870s, so 1870 is very close to the date it was made.

Label in very good condition
Label in very good condition

The movement is a count wheel strike. The clock runs and keeps time but the strike side fails to stop. Once the clock starts striking it keeps on until the mainspring runs down. This is a common problem. In most cases, the warning wheel misses the locking lever even though the count lever in the deep notch and the maintenance lever is in the maintenance-cam notch. Bending a lever or two is a relatively easy fix but the clock must be dis-assembled in order to make this adjustment.

30 hour time and strike movement
30 hour time and strike movement

However, I must put the clock aside for now as I have a Mauthe wall clock and a Jerome Ogee on the workbench. Once those projects are out of the way I can focus on repairing the veneer and servicing the movement of this fine example of an American sharp Gothic shelf clock from 1870.

My Schatz W3 movement finally has a brand new custom built clock case

What do you do when you find a movement without a case? Hope that one comes along? Make one?

I discovered an Aug Schatz & Sohne W3 movement at a local antique store for under CAN$20. My wife said, “You should buy that, maybe you can make a case for it”. “Hmm”, I thought; that would be above my pay grade.

W3 refers to three chimes, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster. It looked interesting and it was not expensive so, why not! Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body. Maybe a case will come along someday, I thought.

Back in August of 2017 I appealed to my readers asking, “If you have a spare case that would fit this movement and it is lying around in your shop I’d be very happy to take it off your hands.”

Front plate
Triple chime Schatz movement

Aug. Schatz & Sohne are better known for 400-day clocks (including the 1000-day clock) and ships clocks. They are not typically known for shelf or mantel clocks but it is not too difficult to find them at antique stores and online auction and for-sale sites. The company is well regarded by German clock-makers.

Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body

This movement has a lever escapement though earlier versions of the W3 were pendulum driven. This particular escapement has 2 jewels; after came escapements with 7 and later still, 11 jewels.

2 jewelled escapement. Has escapement been serviced as well?

The front and back plates are thick and solid. Cut leaf pinions throughout suggest a robust movement design. There are eight chiming hammers and the chime drum can be switched to one of 4 positions; silent, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster.

The movement is clean and in good shape though it has been serviced at least once in its life. I counted 13 new bushings and a newer click spring.

I now have a brand new custom built case

Having a movement without a case is like a having a car engine without the body.

Earlier this year my son’s girlfriend suggested that her grandfather could build the case. She said he loves doing this kind of work. Although skeptical at first, I considered her offer. Her grandfather is over 90 years of age but is a skilled craftsman and he continues to work in his woodworking shop in rural Virginia when he is able. She asked him and he agreed. I sent the measurements to him. Better if I brought the movement to him, her grandfather suggested. I gave the movement to her and she brought it to Virginia while on a visit. He was now able to use the movement as a guide to constructing the case.

We corresponded back and forth through email. I gave him complete latitude concerning the design of the case though he sought my approval during certain stages of construction. After a few months, the clock began to take shape. Below is a photo of the completed case taken in his rural Virginia shop.

The harsh lighting of the shop does not do the clock justice

The glass side panels give it an old world look. The hands are original but are lost in the detail of the new dial. I have since painted them a darker colour.

There is ample room for the chime block which I must supply. The chime block is bolted through the base of the case. The chime block is positioned as close to the chiming rods as possible and if the distance has to be closed the chime hammers are bent towards the rods allowing an eighth of an inch or so of space. It is a relatively simple procedure. As they are brittle, chime rods should never be bent!

The chime block will be mounted under the chime hammers

The clock finally arrives at Christmas time (2018)

My son brought the clock back from Virginia in a carry-on suitcase just after Christmas. He took special care not to damage it in any way.

Schatz W3 bracket clock

The detail and craftsmanship are impressive and reflects hours of meticulous work.

The detail work on the case is amazing

Image from H&W Perrin Co. Ltd

I put the final touches on the clock by painting the hands black, attaching four protective felt pads under the base and giving the case two coats of shellac (traditional 1 lb cut) to achieve an antique finish. With the chime block installed the project will be complete.

After writing the maker and expressing how pleased I was of the outcome, he replied;

“I’m glad you like the case and glad that a simple fix got it running. Painting the hands black was an excellent idea, for I worried that reading time would be difficult. I hope you are able to send me a video of clock with chimes.

Best wishes”

The chime block has arrived and is a perfect fit for the case. The installation and final adjustments should be interesting so, check back later.

Sperry and Shaw 30 hour four column New York Style shelf clock – servicing the movement

Sperry & Shaw 4 column clock

I decided that it was time to service this attractive New York-styled Sperry and Shaw 30 hour time and strike, four column hour-strike clock. The case measures 25 1/2 inches in height by 14 inches in width, very close to the dimensions of a typical ogee clock. This clock is an estate auction buy.

Sperry and Shaw clock showing dial and lower tablet
Sperry and Shaw clock showing dial and lower tablet

The 4 free-standing turned columns drew my attention. It reflects the decorative period of the Empire style popular in the mid 1850s. While researching the NAWCC site I discovered that this clock was probably made between 1846 and 1847. The label, 98% of which is intact, and affixed to the backboard says 10 Courtlandt Street, the company headquarters during the aforementioned period. Sperry and Shaw were not clock-makers but business partners and were regarded as distributors and assemblers.

They sourced cases and movements, affixed their own stamp on the movement and placed their labels (sometimes over other makers labels) inside the case, a common practice at the time as clocks for the home and workplace both locally and abroad were in great demand.

The movement is Jerome-like and stamped Sperry and Shaw, New Jersey. The plates are thinner than a Jerome evidently a cost cutting measure.

The narrow brick-shaped weights (4 3/4 inches X 1 inch) fit neatly into channels on the left and right with little to spare. When I first contacted the seller, he was unsure if the weights were in the clock. He later contacted me to say that the clock indeed had its weights. Had it not come with the weights I would have passed on it because the narrow weights are the only type that will fit into the channels and they would be difficult to source.

Movement needs a good cleaning, old weight cords shown
The weight channels are either side of the movement

The case

The weight cords, though not original, were old and frayed. On the first night I raised the strike weight to the halfway point. Twenty minutes later I heard a loud BANG. When I heard the sound I immediately knew. The cord had snapped and the weight had dropped. Fortunately, there was no damage. I promptly replaced the cords.

I am not sure how I will proceed with the case. The veneer appears to be either mahogany, walnut or rosewood. There are small sections of veneer missing here and there but mostly on the corners, a common issue. It has a two-tone appearance though it is hard to tell if it is the result of aging or the original intent of the maker. There is grime on the darker surfaces and I must decide whether to leave as-is or take it down a little to see what’s there. Attending to the veneer issues on the corners should be a straightforward matter. The break in the right corner of the base is a crude repair and that will have to be redone.

Veneer issues

Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement
Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement

The movement

The movement was disassembled and placed in my L&R ultrasonic cleaner with DEOX-007 solution (7 to 1 ratio) for 30 minutes. The ultrasonic did an terrific job and I am always impressed at how well it cleans lantern pinions. Once the parts were washed in warm water and dried it gave me an opportunity to visually check the movement for obvious issues such as broken or worn teeth, bent arbours and so on. All the parts were in good condition.

The movement had punch marks around every single pivot hole which caused me some concern. However, after pegging the pivot holes and polishing the pivots I re-assembled the movement to check pivot wear and found there were three or four pivots holes that were slightly enlarged but not so much that they had to be done immediately. So, no bushing work this time.

The movement was re-assembled and tested. Unfortunately, my movement stand is not set up for weight driven clocks so testing had to be in the clock case.

Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement tested in the case
Sperry and Shaw 30-hour movement tested in the case

I usually test the movement dry for an hour or so before oiling. Why waste clock oil if it must be taken apart again. Once I am satisfied that the movement is running smoothly I take the movement out of its case, oil the pivots and then run it for several days to regulate and to determine if there any minor issues that need to be addressed. Once I am satisfied, the dial and hands are re-attached. With the new weight cords and the movement fully serviced, I tested it for several days.

However, a week later I adjusted the time since it had stopped and the minute hand was disconnected and spinning freely. The main wheel was not communicating with the second wheel because the arbour washer was loose and the resulting wobble meant that the teeth did not engage properly. Out comes the movement to tighten the washer. Now, all is well.

Back to the case. I am still debating what I should do but I may give it a light refresh.

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