I have worked on Gilbert movements previously and each one has slight differences. This one has a rod gong with two striking hammers. Disassembly was routine but required the removal of some parts to separate the plates.
The Gilbert Clock Company began making clocks in December of 1828 and produced clocks over a span of 130 years.
Gilbert tambour style clock model 2038
This is the model 2038 with a bim-bam strike or what Gilbert in its marketing called a Normandy Chime. The model number along with the words “Normandy Chime” are stamped on the bottom of the case. The “Normandy Chime” was reminiscent of the old bells of Normandy (Corneville) in France.
In terms of nomenclature within clock circles, calling it a “Chime” certainly adds to the confusion as this would be considered a striking clock rather than a chiming one.
Among common parlour clocks you will find few EN Welch clocks. There is a good reason for this. The company was absorbed by the Sessions Clock Company in 1903 so any Welch clock is 115 years old and older.
E N Welch Parlour clock, The Whittier circa 1897
This E N Welch time and strike parlour clock is the Whittier model. The clock was made some years after Welch established its reputation as a quality clock manufacturer with the Patti series. The Whittier model represents a period from 1897 onward when Welch re-organized following a bankruptcy and produced well made but inexpensive clocks for the masses.
I located the clock in an antique store in Kazabazua, Quebec in 2016 while my wife and I were on a day trip from our summer cottage. The seller said the strike side did not work and we negotiated a lower price.
The clock ran for several days but despite adjustments I was unable to get the strike side to run correctly. The stop/warning lever and the count/lifting lever were intact, so, I was puzzled; it should run. Straightening the levers might solve the problem.
Clock collectors usually pride themselves in having at least one Gustav Becker (GB) clock in their collection. I have just one but I am always on the lookout for another.
Gustav Becker wall clock
Becker clocks are not difficult to identify and date. Along with a maker’s stamp, serial numbers on the clock movements identify the year of manufacture. This clock was made in 1902 however, the original 1902 Braunau movement had too many missing parts and was replaced. It now has a “newer” Polish sourced Braunau movement from 1917.
Over the past seven years, I’ve installed a number of bushings in clock movements, but I had never attempted to bush a clock spring barrel until now. While some clockmakers regularly bush barrels, this is the first time I’ve encountered a barrel mainspring in such poor condition. Despite being my first attempt at bushing a barrel, the process was largely successful.
Jauch wall clock
Two years ago, I purchased a Jauch schoolhouse clock at auction for $50. It features a straightforward, time-only movement, making it an excellent choice for anyone new to clock repair.
Jauch movement
German clock movements from the 1970s were not always built to the highest standards, often plagued by two key issues: plated pivots and soft brass. Softer steel pivots were used to prolong the life of cutting machines, with plating added to provide sufficient hardness. Unfortunately, this plating wears away over time, leaving the pivot significantly worn.
This particular movement does not have plated pivots. However, the second issue—soft brass—is evident. In this case, the steel arbor has caused significant wear to the brass cap and barrel.
Gap in barrelAnother shot of the enlarged hole on the cap
During a previous servicing, I installed three bushings but did not address the mainspring barrel.
Since I purchased the clock, it has consistently run 10 minutes fast at the start of the 8-day cycle and 10 minutes slow by the end. There’s likely some underlying physics related to barrel slop that affects this erratic behavior, though the exact cause eludes me. Clearly, something unusual is at play. Will bushing the barrel and its cap improve the running characteristics of this movement? Time will tell.
Assembled movement
A Challenging Repair
For the barrel repair, I chose a #60 Bergeon bushing to fit the reamed-out hole, as it was the largest size available in my bushing supply.
Largest Bergeon bushing with an outside diameter of 8.5mmThe ratchet gear must be removed to work on the barrel arbour
To remove the barrel arbor from the barrel, I first had to take off the ratchet gear. Lacking a gear puller, I placed the barrel in a vice, positioned two pieces of wood on either side beneath the ratchet, and gave the arbour a light tap with the nylon end of a brass hammer. The ratchet came off easily.
After popping off the barrel cap, I used my spring winder to remove the mainspring, allowing access to the barrel. I then restrained the spring with a collar. So far, everything was going smoothly.
Jauch mainspring barrel in Olie Baker spring winder, with capture collar on right
I positioned the barrel in my Bergeon bushing machine and used the centering bit to establish the center. Using an 8.47mm cutter, I created a hole and installed the bushing. To secure it, I peened the bushing in place, forming a lip on both ends to ensure it stayed firmly seated. With the barrel complete, I moved on to the cap.
This is where things didn’t go quite as smoothly. I centered the cap as accurately as possible on my bushing machine, drilled through it, and installed a bushing of the same size. However, the arbour’s diameter on the cap side was larger than on the barrel side, so I used another reamer to enlarge the inside of the bushing. As I worked, I noticed the bushing wall was becoming quite thin. To preserve a sufficiently thick wall, I decided to reduce the diameter of the arbour. Using my metal lathe and a cutter, I trimmed the arbour to achieve a proper fit. Once satisfied, I peened the bushing in place.
Cap bushingBarrel bushing
When I reinstalled the barrel into the movement, I noticed that the cap could have been better centered. There is a slight tilt, which became apparent once the barrel was in place. I wondered whether the gear would properly mesh with the second wheel pinion as the barrel rotates or if it might rub against the second wheel. After a few days of observation, it seemed to function without issue.
Looking back, I realize it would have been better to bush the barrel side first, test it, and then move on to the cap side. It’s all part of the learning process!
Next time, taking extra care to pinpoint the exact center will undoubtedly lead to a better result. Given that this is a budget clock and not my finest work, I see it as a valuable experience.
Time to relax with a few good books, clock books, of course
It is time to take a little break.
I typically maintain a steady output of 7 to 9 clock themed articles per month. A number of articles have been prepared in advance of the summer months which means that there will be NO interruption in blog activity.
July 1 is the national day of Canada the effective date of the Constitution Act of 1867 then called the British North American Act. This year we celebrate 152 years as a nation. Canada Day is often informally referred to as “Canada’s birthday”. Celebratory events take place on July 1.
Most communities across the country will host organized celebrations for Canada Day, typically outdoor public events, such as parades, carnivals, festivals, barbecues, air and maritime shows, fireworks, and free musical concerts.
Prince of Wales parlour clock
Back when Canada was a young nation a small clock company known as the Canada Clock Company struggled to make its mark and produced some of the finest Canadian clocks that our country has ever seen. This is model called the Prince of Wales and it is a fitting tribute to this our nations birthday.
This post explores buying tips for novice antique clock buyers. Those looking for an antique clock in general rather than a specific type or model of an antique mechanical clock will find the following tips very useful.
Vintage versus antique
According to the United States Government publications, the term “antique” is reserved for valuables that are over a century old. Webster’s dictionary defines an antique as a work of art, piece of furniture, or decorative object made at an earlier period and according to various customs laws at least 100 years ago. Wikipedia defines the word antique as applying to objects at least 100 years old.
Restored Seth Thomas antique column and cornice “Empire” style time and strike weight driven shelf clock circa 1865
According to eBay, vintage is a defined period from 1920 to 1969. The use of the word vintage in online auctions and elsewhere is becoming more and more like the word “rare”. Some may define “vintage” as anything that was purchased less than 24 hours ago, is dirty and worn, or looks like it might be old if you know nothing about its history. Sellers often do not know anything about what they are selling and often describe the item as “vintage”.
Arthur Pequegnat Canadian Time wall clock circa 1930
The word “collectible” is also used, just like the word vintage has been misused. Just about anything sold these days is marketed as a collectible if not vintage. Most serious buyers would agree that when it comes to clocks younger than 100 years old but older than 30 they are considered vintage and collectible is anything within 30 years.
Antique clock buying tips
Buying a clock without actually touching and inspecting it is always a gamble and making a judgment based on online images, most of which are of poor quality, complicates the decision-making even further. The sad stories of people who thought they bought an antique clock with a mechanical movement only to find a quartz one when the clock arrived at their door are not fiction. This and other examples are the many challenges facing the antique clock shopper in today’s online world.
I am not a firm believer in purchasing an antique clock online based on images unless one is very familiar with and respects the reputation of the seller. Although you may find that special clock online my advice is to see the clock in the flesh prior to making your final decision.
Simon Willard banjo clock circa 1810
Questions you might ask yourself prior to the purchase
Will I get my money’s worth? Will I be “ripped off”?
Will it work when I get it home?
What do I have to do to fix it if something is wrong and what could I pay to fix it?
What did the seller not disclose? What are the little surprises that await me when I get home?
“Life is a box of chocolates….you never know what you are going to get”, Forest Gump
3 Simple rules for antique clock buying
Here are 3 simple rules on how to buy that special antique clock you’ve always wanted.
1. Locate the antique clock
The style and type of antique clock is a personal preference. I prefer wall clocks over mantel clocks, parlour over gingerbreads, and Ogees over cottage clocks.
If it is a local online inquiry meet with the seller to finalize the sale. If the clock is found in an antique shop or antique mall you will not be dealing with the seller (there are exceptions) but an agent who may know absolutely nothing about the clock.
Avoid Chinese or Korean clocks often advertised as “31-day” clocks. Although they are normally reliable runners, clock-makers will tell you that they are not worth fixing. None are antiques.
2. Ask a lot of questions
Does the clock run?
A running clock has more value than a non-running example. Ask the seller to demonstrate a running clock.
Who is the maker (manufacturer)?
Manufacturers make both inexpensive and quality clocks (there are exceptions). Seth Thomas, a respectable American clock-maker manufactured inexpensive clocks that have little value and higher-end models that are very desirable by collectors. The name alone does not always equate to value.
Has the clock been altered in any way?
Newer case pieces, decorations, new glass, refinished case, a replacement movement, a replacement pendulum, etc. will reduce the value and sometimes significantly.
If it does not run, are all the parts intact?
If it has all the parts, can it be repaired either by you, the buyer, or a competent repair person? I know of a time and strike clock that was missing the strike side gears.
How old is it?
Again, vintage or antique. A clock made in 1919 is now an antique.
Does the clock have provenance, an interesting and verifiable history?
How long has the seller had it?
A cherished family heirloom has more value than an item recently acquired for a quick profit.
Would you accept a lower price?
Point out specifically why the price should be reduced, missing pieces, non-running, poor condition.
3. Deal directly with the seller
By dealing with the seller in person you will always have the opportunity to walk away if you are not satisfied.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock Ca. 1899
Not every antique clock is rare or valuable and some clocks are more desirable than others. That 150-year-old 30-hour Ogee is not as valuable as you might think but a much younger vintage French figural style clock may be worth a lot more.
If you are looking for a very specific type or model of antique clock you will find that it takes time and research to find it but there will be a satisfying reward once found.
In Part I, I wrote why I collect, repair and restore clocks. In this, Part II are 9 reasons why clock collecting and repair is a great hobby for just about anyone.
9 Reasons why clock collecting and repair is a great hobby
This is Part I of a two part series. In Part I, I will discuss why I collect, repair and restore clocks. In Part II are 9 reasons why clock collecting and repair is a great hobby for just about anyone.
Arthur Pequegnat Regulator #1, an example of one of the clocks offered for sale
I do not normally promote auctions sales and derive no benefit from mentioning them however something special is happening on June 8th 2019. It is not often that so many clocks from one maker are on sale at one specific time. In New hamburg, Ontario (Canada) 200 Arthur Pequegnat clocks are on the auction block. All styles of clocks are being offered, wall, hall, mantel, shelf and so on including some variants.
At least three Monctons are offered for sale
This is a unique opportunity for Canadian collectors and anyone else interested in antique clocks. Were I closer I would certainly be there to enjoy the frenzy of an auction sale. Here are the clocks being offered.
This is the only true gingerbread clock I have in my collection, temporarily. By this summer (2019) it will be returned to a family relation.
Dial and movement has been removed; notice the 4-colour tablet design
Can you get this thing working, my sister said? Sure, I said. Grand Assortment is an odd name for a Sessions clock, I said. The name certainly lacks imagination, but this particular clock is one of three in a series and sold for $4.00 in 1915 and could be configured with alarm and/or cathedral bell. This particular clock is Grand #3.
I discovered this sad case in an antique shop near my home. What was once a gingerbread clock is now a repainted case with shelves at the ridiculous price of $35. Just a few steps away was a similar parlour clock for only $20 more and it was largely intact. Some would argue that a repurposed clock case is not such a bad thing but as a clock collector I find this appalling.
Is it not better to have left the case alone and present it as an ornament rather that convert it into a hideous curio cabinet?
The four free-standing turned columns of the New York style Sperry and Shaw clock immediately drew my attention. The style reflects the decorative period of the Empire style popular in the mid 1850s. In a previous blog post I discussed servicing the movement. I thought long and hard about what to do with the case and decided that a refresh was what it needed.
I do not come across many antique E Ingraham & Co. clocks and have just one other in my collection, the Huron from 1878, but I came across another recently that I found in a local antique shop. The price was right so, I snapped it up. The”S” shaped logo on the dial led me to assume it was a Sessions, but it was not – I’ll get to that later.
Rare Ingraham Huron balloon style clock in Rosewood
This is a parlour clock. It might have been described in company advertising as a kitchen clock. Some even refer to it as a gingerbread. There are a number of terms used when describing clocks of this style and the three names are used interchangeably by sellers on online for-sale sites and antique stores.
E Ingraham parlour clock circa 1897, sitting in an antique shop
I was on a Facebook clock collector page recently and I was intrigued by the work someone had done on a clock that was surely destined for the garbage bin. The transformation was given an apt phrase, “Trash to Treasure” and so I thought I would write about my own experiences resurrecting old clocks.
Preserving the original patina is always the principle goal and I do as much as I can to keep things as they are. However, when the finish has been adversely affected by environmental damage, heat, cold, humidity over the course of many years, as in a couple of examples below, the only course of action is refinishing.
There are times when the only course of action is complete restoration
This is Part II of a three (3) part series. In Part I, I discuss disassembly and servicing the mainsprings. In this, Part II, the movement and in Part III we will look at restoring the brass case.
My wife found this 1910 Ansonia Crystal Regulator in the late summer 2018 while antique shopping. What a great choice! We were in a hurry and despite a price reduction we should have asked the proprietor to show us that it worked. We returned home and to our dismay, it was not running.
In Part I of this two part series I discuss disassembly and the big question; how to service the mainsprings.
Front of movement showing visible escapement
The movement
There are 4 screws that release the plates. The 3 pin gathering pallet and hour gear must be removed to facilitate servicing. It is possible to re-assemble the movement without removing those two parts but it is very frustrating. To remove them assemble the plates. Using two small blades (small screwdrivers) positioned 180 degrees apart from one another will work. As these movements are visible, any scratches will show, so, placing masking tape on the plate will prevent scratches. Wedge both screwdrivers and the parts should pop off. The gathering pallet flew across the room (not ideal) but it worked.
Twisting the top regulator pivot bracket on the front plate upwards allows the pallets and crutch to come out from between the movement plates.
Clean parts in the usual way but do not put the pallet assembly in the ultrasonic if the pallets are jeweled. The ultrasonic machine will loosen the pallets.
Rack and snail assembly on the back plate
The movement required 5 bushings and all on the front plate; S2, S3, T2, T3, and T4. Unusual but understandable given the placement of the gears.
Getting it all back together
Putting the plates together with gears in place is fairly straightforward. It takes a gentle twisting to get the pallet assembly in position however, there is no need to force anything.
Most of the strike assembly is on the outside but it is important to set up the warning correctly. There are two wheels with stop pins.
Thanks to reader Bob G. for explaining the following. The wheel with the stop pin closest to the outside of the plate is the stop wheel. That is held back by the tab coming through the plate from the back of the movement. The next wheel that has a stop pin is the warning. As the hour arbor lifts the lever to begin the strike sequence, the warning pin holds everything back until the correct moment. That second stop pin should be at about the four o’clock position when looking at the movement from the front.
If the stop pins are in the correct position, you must adjust the position of the pins on the gathering pallet. If you hold the wheel next to the fly, you can grip the pallet with a needle nose pliers and turn it until the pins clear the rack. Otherwise, the pins on the gathering pallet will lock the rack and the clock will only strike once on the hour and half hour.
All adjustments have been made and the movement has been fully assembled and now onto the movement test stand.
Winter, along with the dry conditions of a typical Canadian home, can play havoc with wooden clock cases. In Canada we generally shut the doors and windows to keep the cold air out from mid November to mid March and we may stay inside for days at a time. During our Canadian winter we have difficulty controlling indoor humidity. Most modern homes have a commercial style air-exchanger that is designed to control relative humidity but it can only do so much.
I have dozens of clocks and most do not seem to mind the changes in humidity from season to season other than a rate adjustment. Those vintage clocks that are adversely affected tend to be clocks with thin veneers that separate from the frames of the cases. Less affected are Ogee clocks with thicker veneers.
My Ingersoll-Waterbury time and strike clock from the mid 1940s is a 70 year old clock and not a particularly valuable one to begin with but has been affected with peeling veneer. The peeling veneer is unsightly and must be addressed.
I am not opposed to using modern materials to repair a vintage clock and in this case yellow carpenters glue was used to close the gaps on both the left and right rear of the case. Yellow carpenters glue has a bonding strength of 3 tons and for maximum effect is should be clamped for 24 hours.
Split veneer on left side, rear
Both sides of the case were splitting open. The right was slightly worse than the left. Although I have several clamps I only had one to spare for this little project so, the job was spread over a few days.
Right side is clamped
Wax paper is placed between the clamp and the veneer to prevent the glue from adhering to the clamp itself.
Once the glue has bonded, the case is lightly sanded in the affected areas, the remaining cracks treated with wood filler and touched up with a dark stain.
Stain-able filler in the small cracks that remain
Two coats of shellac are then applied.
Not perfect but an improvement.
Clocks and museums
I am not fanatical about humidity as far as my collection is concerned but museums go to great lengths to control humidity. In museums temperature and humidity are interrelated, and must be monitored and controlled in conjunction with one another towards the goal of preservation. Room temperature is usually established according to the needs of visitors, and is set between 18 and 20°C. The relative humidity for the correct conservation of the works displayed usually lie in the limited range between 45 and 50%.
Clocks react to humidity differently. Clocks with wood pendulum rods need seasonal adjusting as the wood contracts and expands with changes in humidity. Wall clocks that have tight doors in the summer are easier to open in the winter as wood contracts.
High humidity can be mitigated through the use of humidifiers if there is sufficient concern about dry air and its effect on clock cases. It is a good option in the winter months.
If you have a modest collection of clocks I would not worry about humidity issues but you can be assured that seasonal changes can have an affect on your clocks.
What other machine have you acquired that has worked continuously since it was made 150 plus years ago and still does the job it was intended for? Mechanical clocks revolutionized people’s perception of time by displaying neutral, uniform units that showed the passage of time. Though not as accurate as the modern electronic timekeeper the mechanical clock remains a marvel of engineering and innovation.
The constant search for clocks
Locating antique and vintage clocks involves travelling, meeting fascinating people and discovering a clock’s particular history. Each story is unique and some stories are sad. I recently arranged the purchase of an antique French shelf clock, arrived to pick it up and discovered that the person was terminally ill and selling off his clock collection to provide for his wife after he had passed. I really felt sorry for the fellow. Of course, many stories are happy ones.
I enjoy clocks for what they are. I often think about the men who conceived them, built them and the craftsmen working in small factories in places such as New England with primitive (by our standards) tools and the harsh conditions they endured. Life to them was a day-to-day struggle. That the clocks are still with us today is a testament to the pioneers of clock-making.
Miniature Vienna Regulator wall clock, circa 1870
There are a lot of clocks I find intriguing. There are some people that collect complex clocks and I appreciate them as well but I lean towards beauty in simplicity. For example, the miniature Vienna Regulator pictured above is a time-only clock made during the Austrian-Hungarian empire (1870). It is simple, little can go wrong and after nearly 150 years it is still running strong.
There is a certain joy in collecting and repairing clocks. The hobby of clock-making allows one to escape from negativity, put aside worldly matters, effectively manage stress, and dispense with everyday concerns. Occasionally clock problems are very challenging however, the joy in discovering a solution is immeasurable. Beyond that, clocks are an art form and should be appreciated for what they are.
As a collector, the number of clocks I have is not important. The size of my collection is also not important but by trimming my acquisitions from time to time I keep it manageable.
One cannot deny the classic style of an American Ogee clock. This one is in great shape and required almost nothing to get it to top form. 30-hour shelf clocks are abundant but not many cases survive years of wear and tear.
Dial removed to show the 30 hour movement
This George H. Clark 30-hour shelf clock is a very good example of Connecticut form. The case form is called an “og” or “ogee”, a mathematical term that describes the “S” curve shape in the primary molding that surrounds the door.
The clock has a brass time and strike, weight driven movement with an excellent original printed paper label on the interior reading in part “Made and Sold at/46 Courtlandt St/New York…. George H. Clark”. It measures 28 x 17 x 4.5”. This rectangular shaped case is decorated with nicely grained mahogany veneers. The veneer has very little if any losses.
The dial face
The upper section of the door is fitted with clear glass. Through this one can view the painted wood dial. The wood dial tells me that it is an early pre-1850 clock. This dial is formatted with a Roman numeral time track.
It is always a challenge matching 100+-year-old paint but by combining white. brown and yellow acrylic paint I was able to approximate the original colour. Some Roman Numerals were touched up with black acrylic paint.
The wood dial before touch-ups
And after numerals and face given a matching paint; you can see the difference in the number 4
I also glued two small blocks under the left and right “L” pins to centre the dial correctly.
The door is open showing the gong coil and the pasted label in very good condition
The lower section features a beehive painted tablet. The tablet is a replacement but fairly close to what would have been there at the time.
Beehive design; not original but in keeping with the style
Observations regarding the movement
The movement looks like an early (unmarked) Waterbury, ca. 1860 type 2.411. Waterbury movements have “quarter-round” corners, while most other ogee movements tend to have the “tombstones” or plain rectangles. The movement could have been swapped but It is difficult to tell.
A clean Jerome style movement
Everything except the movement points to a period between 1840-50. If the movement is a replacement it was likely an early replacement.
30-hour movements will run surprisingly well with horrible pivot wear. However, regarding repair, my view is this: I do not normally install new bushings in every single pivot hole on the movement. If a bushing hole is passable I will leave it as-is but if the hole is quite oblong I will install a new bushing to mitigate potential gear meshing issues in the future.
Addressing the movement
I will also ignore some past repairs. For example, in this particular movement I noticed 4 punch marks around the escape wheel bridge pivot hole. As most clock repairers know using a punch to close a pivot hole was an acceptable practice many years ago though it is not considered a good practice today. In this particular case, the pivot hole was in good shape and I decided to leave it as-is. After assessing the movement further, I installed one bushing on the second wheel front plate strike side (S2) and the second on the second wheel strike side rear plate (T2). Just two bushings. As to the three lantern pinions, they were in very good condition.
Reassembly was routine. The time side ran fine.
Adjusting the strike side was not easy and should have been a simple procedure. The problem was not only correctly positioning the warning pin on the fly but ensuring that the warning hook lever could actually meet the warning hook. The levers in this clock had been bent every which way making it a real challenge to find the correct angles. It did not strike correctly before servicing. Trial and error combined with colourful language certainly helped correct the strike.
The finished clock
The gong block and coil were also cleaned up. Tip; it helps to put the same screws back in the same holes. Seems trivial but it is a good practice. Not all screws are the same.
Gong block removed and cleaned
Little time was spent on this clock and I was fortunate to have an almost perfect case. The previous owner knew how to take care of the case but the movement neede work. When many of these clocks stopped they simply became decorations but I am sure that this one will run reliably for many more years to come.
Although there are two dozen clock books in my collection I am always on the look out for more. Some of my books profile various types and styles of clocks, some explore the history of horology while others are concerned with clock repair and case restoration.
Part of every vacation or daily outing in my province of Nova Scotia or elsewhere in Canada involves scouring the used books stores for clock books. Sometimes I am lucky and manage to locate some good ones but quite often I will leave used book stores disappointed.
The table of contents describes what he covers in his book.
Contents of the book
Specialized procedures
Although the book is no longer in print it provides excellent examples of clock repair procedures by describing step-by-step instruction for overhauling and repairing many movements plus the repair and restoration of dials, and cases of antique pendulum clocks. Commonly found clocks that you are likely to inherit or find on online auction sites, flea markets and antique stores are covered.
John Plewes covers clocks from Britain, Canada, the US, France and Germany. There are plenty of diagrams and photos in the book to assist the amateur or expert repair person .
For example, Chapter 4 covers the Pequegnat Regulator #1 8-day movement.
“The finest clock made in America”; Pequegnat advertisement. This clock hangs in the Canadian Clock Museum
The clock is markedly similar to the Seth Thomas Regulator #2 shown below.
Seth Thomas Regulator #2
Plewes makes several interesting points regarding the design of this clock. He discusses the difficulty in finding a replacement weight and often the lighter Seth Thomas weight is substituted which leads to the clock stopping after a while. Plewes is surprisingly critical of the #1 at one point stating that the hands are too heavy since they influence the force applied to the train. The pendulum arc changes when the minute hand indicates 20 minutes after, as against that at 50 minutes. The solution, he feels, is to counterweight the hands or install lighter hands. Plewes opines that the whole point of a regulator is to maintain the constant arc and Pequegnat seemed to have missed that point when designing the clock.
Plewes covers a lot of ground in his book. Some of the advice is certainly beyond the skill level of an amateur clock repair person but if you are interested in growing within the world of clock repair and case restoration it will provide an invaluable resource.
Also included are safety tips, shop techniques, and a glossary of terms.
The book was last published over 30 years ago but If you can find it, and are interested in clock repair from a Canadian perspective it is well worth the cost.
The world of horology reveals an assortment of interesting expressions as well as the misuse of words and terms. For classic example; why do some refer to shelf clocks as Mantle clocks when a mantel is something you wear like a shawl or a cloak? Mantel, such as a shelf over a fireplace, is the correct term.
I want to focus on one very common expression. How many times have you the heard the expression, “it was running fine till I over-wound it”? I have heard it often enough on clock forum, Facebook sites and among acquaintances. It is an ubiquitous expression. Do not blame the last person winding the clock for they are not the cause of a so-called “over-wound” clock or one that stops mysteriously.
Over tightening
While it may be technically accurate that a mainspring can become damaged by repeated over-tightening that is, winding the spring until it is tight, and then continuing to tighten it more just to be on the safe side, there is another reason why this occurs.
Take a spring barrel like the one in the following photo.
Barrel and winding arbour
When the spring is wound it is coiled tightly around the winding arbour. The other end of the spring has a small hole which is hooked over a small stud, which is riveted into the interior wall of the barrel.
The hole allows the spring to be hooked to the inside of the barrel
The hole in the spring can become fatigued because of years of repeated “over-tightening”, and/or the stamped hook or riveted stud breaks free. “Over-winding” is not the reason.
A dirty movement
American open mainspring clocks “appear” to be “over-wound” because of a buildup of old oil, rust and dirt in the mainspring coil which causes the coil to stick and the spring to seize.
Clocks which might appear to be “over-wound” and non-working can be persuaded to run again by letting down the mainspring completely with a let-down tool, liberally applying mainspring oil and rewinding. This procedure is by no means a substitute for a good cleaning and it does not address other issues that may be causing the clock to stop but it is one step in troubleshooting your clock movement.
It is only when the movement is disassembled and the mainspring is removed from the arbour that you can examine the condition of the mainspring and decide whether to keep it or replace it. Dirt and old oil can be easily cleaned up. Light rust on a mainspring can be removed with emery paper or steel wool; heavy rust and the mainspring should be replaced. Inspect the spring for cracks or breaks. In many situations the mainspring can be saved.
In some cases the click can let go because the rivet securing the click becomes fatigued. For example, Sessions clocks have weak clicks and rivets. Inspection and remediation of a bad click is a typical procedure when servicing a Sessions clock.
Open mainspring click riveted in place.
Do not expect a newly acquired clock to have been serviced recently or at all unless the seller can prove it. Moreover, servicing a mechanical clock on a regular basis is an important part of ownership.
“Over-winding” is one of those terms that one hears quite often and is a very common myth.
The first day of spring is called the vernal equinox (sometimes also referred to as the spring equinox or March equinox) and it is almost always either March 20 or March 21 though it will fall on March 20 for the next two years in a row. The first day of the spring season is the day of the year when the Sun crosses the celestial equator moving northward.
Spring is often called the season of rebirth and renewal. It is also seen as the time of the year when we Canadians crawl out of winter hibernation and greet longer and warmer days with enthusiasm and renewed energy.
1910 Ansonia Crystal Regulator
In the pursuit of horological interests what will Spring mean for this writer?
This weekend (March 2019) my wife and I are in Fredericton, New Brunswick. Part of our mini vacation is to check out antique shops and flea markets for interesting clocks.
Otherwise, at home I am putting the finishing touches on the servicing of an Ansonia Crystal Regulator and determining next steps for a recently acquired Gilbert tambour clock.
Gilbert tambour style mantel clock circa 1925
Clocks coming up on the bench are an Arthur Pequegnat Brandon for inspection and oiling, another Gilbert Mantel clock for servicing and case repairs and a Jauch wall clock that I am servicing at for a friend.
Arthur Pequegnat Brandon II
In June I am attending the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors national conference in Massachusetts (USA) where I hope to interact with like-minded individuals within the world of horology and perhaps learn new things. I am looking forward to it.
In the process of adjusting the strike side on a George H Clark 30-hour clock I decided to make a video showing how to remove and install a 30-hour movement from its case.
George H. Clark 30 hour movement before servicing
Part of the video concerns the adjustments required for the clock to run correctly but also shows the steps required to safely remove and install a 30-hour movement with a couple of worthwhile tips.
IMPORTANT: In the video, I did not include the fact that the two holes in the movement seat board are access points for pins that insert into the side support boards. Along with the top block they are intended to secure the movement in place. I have five Ogee clocks and none of them had pins when I received them. Inspect the movement mounting first. If you should have a clock with the pins they must be pulled before the movement slides out. (Thank you for pointing this out JC).
On March 10th Daylight Savings Time began at 3:00am in Canada. Over 100 years ago on July 1, 1908, the residents of Port Arthur, Ontario, today’s Thunder Bay, turned their clocks forward by 1 hour to start the world’s first DST period.
Spring ahead, Fall behind
In Canada we refer to it as Daylight Saving Time (DST); the British call it “British Summer Time” and “summertime” in other areas. It is the practice of advancing clocks during summer months so that evening daylight lasts longer while sacrificing normal sunrise times. Typically, regions that use daylight saving time adjust clocks forward one hour close to the start of spring and adjust them backward in the autumn to standard time. We have a little expression, “Spring ahead, Fall behind” to make it easy to remember what to do twice a year. In Canada, it is the second Sunday in March and the first Sunday in November.
Junghans Crispi time and strike wall clock
There is a constant dispute about the benefits and drawbacks. Proponents say that it conserves energy and has a psychological benefit of extending the daylight hours. Opponents say that the energy arguments are inconclusive.
Regardless, people must remember to change their clocks. It is a time-consuming exercise, particularly for those owners of antique and vintage mechanical clocks that cannot be moved backward safely though obviously moving 1-hour forward is much simpler.
Arthur Pequegnat Moncton wall clock
But why go through this nonsense; let’s just get rid of DST! I advocate a move to “permanent daylight saving time” that is, staying on summer hours all year with no time shifts. My mechanical clocks will appreciate it and yours will too!
Having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body
I discovered this Aug Schatz & Sohne W3 (circa 1960) movement at a local antique store for under CAN$20. My wife said, “You should buy that, maybe you can make a case for it”. “Hmm”, I thought; that would be above my pay grade. The movement looked interesting and it was not expensive so, why not! But, having a movement without a case is like a car engine without the body but I was confident that one day I would have the solution.
This is a type W3 movement. “W3” refers to three chime tones, St Micheal, Whittington and Westminster.
Rear plate of the W3 movement showing chime selector and chime/strike hammers
I put out a plea and two people contacted me to say they had a case that would fit. One lived in Australia and the cost of shipping the case was too high. Another corresponded twice but I sensed he realized that his case would not fit. So, I put the movement away. On a positive note it runs well.
Schatz and Sohne W3 movement installed in a custom case
The pursuit of a custom made case
In the spring of 2018 my son’s girlfriend suggested that her grandfather could build the case. He loves doing this kind of work, she said. Although skeptical at first, I accepted her offer. Though a skilled craftsman her grandfather is over 90 years of age but spends as much time as he can in his woodworking shop in rural Virginia. He agreed to do the work. I sent the measurements to him but he preferred to have the movement in hand so it was sent to Virginia. He was able to use the movement as a guide in constructing the case. The clock was returned to me in December 2018 and it looked absolutely perfect.
Now to the installation of the chime block
The dimensions of the case allowed ample room to place a chime block. The block and rods are 7 1/2 inches long but even so there was not much room to spare on one end. The 8-rod chime block is from a Canadian clock supplier and is designed for a Hermle triple chime movement. There are not a lot of 8-rod chime blocks available through suppliers and given that I had little choice I had to assume that it would work for my clock and it does!
This video describes the placement of the chime block and some experimentation to achieve the optimum sound.
The tapered sections of the rods are an inch long and the hammers must be positioned to strike the wide point of the rods for best results. The oak base was trimmed to fit, allowing for about an eighth of an inch between the rods and the hammers. To close the distance to the rods the hammer wires are bent and centered on the rods. As they are brittle, chime rods should never be bent!
Chime block and oak piece forming the base
Once I was satisfied that the chime block was correctly positioned the block was secured. First I screwed the chime block to the hardwood base with 4 brass slotted screws. And finally, I secured the chime block through the base using two 1 1/4 inch slotted screws through pre-drilled holes.
I gave the case one more coat of shellac before putting it on display.
I am impressed with the outcome. Not all movements have such a happy ending.
Antique and Vintage Mechanical Clocks 
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